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Modern cookery for private families by Eliza Acton

CHAPTER IV.

543 words  |  Chapter 42

=Gravies.= INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. [Illustration: Gravy Kettle. ] GRAVIES are not often required either in great variety, or in abundant quantities, when only a moderate table is kept, and a clever cook will manage to supply, at a trifling cost, all that is generally needed for plain family dinners; while an unskilful or extravagant one will render them sources of unbounded expense.[53] But however small the proportions in which they are made, their _quality_ should be particularly attended to, and they should be well adapted in flavour to the dishes they are to accompany. For some, a high degree of savour is desirable, but for fricassees, and other preparations of delicate white meats, this should be avoided, and a soft, smooth sauce of refined flavour should be used in preference to any of more piquant relish. Footnote 53: We know of an instance of a cook who stewed down two or three pounds of beef to make gravy for a single brace of partridges; and who complained of the meanness of her employers (who were by no means affluent) because this was objected to. Instead of frying the ingredients for brown gravies, which is usually done in common English kitchens, French cooks pour to them at first a small quantity of liquid, which is reduced by rapid boiling to what is technically called _glaze_; particular directions for which will be found in the next receipt to this, and also at pages 10 and 104. When the glaze has acquired the proper colour, boiling broth should be added in small portions, and well shaken round the stewpan to detach it entirely; the meat may then be stewed gently for three or four hours with a few mushrooms, should they be at hand, a bunch of parsley, and some green onions, or with a Portugal onion instead. A thick slice or two of an unboiled ham, is an almost indispensable addition to rich soup or gravy, and to supply it in the most economical manner, a large, highly cured one, or more, not over fatted, should be kept for the purpose, and cut as required. The bones of undressed meat will supply almost, or quite as good gravy-stock as the meat itself, if well boiled down, particularly those of the loin, or neck of veal; and as the flesh of these may be dressed in many ways advantageously without them, the whole joint may be turned to excellent account by so dividing it. The necks of poultry, with the feet properly skinned, a few herbs, a morsel or two of ham or of lean bacon, and such slight flavourings beside as the spice-box can supply, with a few drops of good mushroom catsup, will of themselves, if well managed, produce sufficient gravy to serve with the birds from which they are taken; and if not wanted for the purpose, they should always be stewed down, or thrown into the stock pot, for which the shank bones of legs of mutton, and all trimmings of meats should likewise be reserved. Excellent broth for the sick or for the needy, may also be made of them at little cost, when they are not required for other uses. To deepen the colour of gravies, the thick mushroom _pressings_ of
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Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. CHAPTER I. 3. CHAPTER II. 4. Chapter VI.) 5. CHAPTER III. 6. CHAPTER IV. 7. CHAPTER V. 8. CHAPTER VI. 9. CHAPTER VII. 10. CHAPTER VIII. 11. CHAPTER IX. 12. CHAPTER X. 13. CHAPTER XI. 14. CHAPTER XII. 15. CHAPTER XIII. 16. CHAPTER XIV. 17. CHAPTER XV. 18. CHAPTER XVI. 19. CHAPTER XVII. 20. Chapter VI.) 21. CHAPTER XVIII. 22. CHAPTER XIX. 23. CHAPTER XX. 24. CHAPTER XXI. 25. CHAPTER XXII. 26. CHAPTER XXIII. 27. CHAPTER XXIV. 28. CHAPTER XXV. 29. CHAPTER XXVI. 30. CHAPTER XXVII. 31. CHAPTER XXVIII. 32. CHAPTER XXIX. 33. CHAPTER XXX. 34. CHAPTER XXXI. 35. CHAPTER XXXII. 36. CHAPTER I. 37. CHAPTER II. 38. Chapter V.) It appears to us that the skin should be stripped from any 39. Chapter VI.; though this is a mode of service less to be recommended, as 40. CHAPTER III. 41. Chapter V., or, with flour and butter, then seasoned with spice as 42. CHAPTER IV. 43. Chapter VII., or a little soy (when its flavour is admissible), or 44. CHAPTER V. 45. CHAPTER VI. 46. Chapter XVII.), laid lightly round it, is always an agreeable one to 47. Chapter III.), mince them quickly upon a dish with a large sharp knife, 48. CHAPTER VII. 49. CHAPTER VIII. 50. introduction of these last into pies unless they are especially ordered: 51. CHAPTER IX. 52. CHAPTER X. 53. 18. Cheek. 54. Chapter VIII., adding, at pleasure, a flavouring of minced onion or 55. CHAPTER XI. 56. 10. Breast, Brisket End. 57. Chapter I.), or as much good beef broth as may be required for the hash, 58. CHAPTER XII. 59. 7. Breast. 60. Chapter VI. may be substituted for the usual ingredients, the parsley 61. CHAPTER XIII. 62. 6. Leg. 63. CHAPTER XIV. 64. Chapter VIII., and the sausage-meat may then be placed on either side of 65. CHAPTER XV. 66. Chapter VIII., sew it up, truss and spit it firmly, baste it for ten 67. Chapter VIII.) rolled into small balls, and simmered for ten minutes in 68. Chapter XVII.), and beat them together until they are well blended; next 69. CHAPTER XVI. 70. CHAPTER XVII. 71. CHAPTER XVIII. 72. Chapter XV.): their livers also may be put into them. 73. CHAPTER XIX. 74. Chapter XVIII., but it must be boiled very dry, and left to become quite 75. CHAPTER XX. 76. CHAPTER XXI. 77. CHAPTER XXII. 78. CHAPTER XXIII. 79. Chapter XXIII., is exceedingly convenient for preparations of this kind; 80. CHAPTER XXIV. 81. 1. Let everything used for the purpose be delicately clean and _dry_; 82. 2. Never place a preserving-pan _flat upon the fire_, as this will 83. 3. After the sugar is added to them, stir the preserves gently at first, 84. 5. Fruit which is to be preserved in syrup must first be blanched or 85. 6. To preserve both the true flavour and the colour of fruit in jams and 86. 7. Never use tin, iron, or pewter spoons, or skimmers, for preserves, as 87. 8. When cheap jams or jellies are required, make them at once with 88. 9. Let fruit for preserving be gathered always in perfectly dry weather, 89. CHAPTER XXV. 90. CHAPTER XXVI. 91. 4. (Lemon-rinds, cinnamon, carraway-seeds, or ginger, or currants at 92. CHAPTER XXVII. 93. CHAPTER XXVIII. 94. CHAPTER XXIX. 95. CHAPTER XXX. 96. CHAPTER XXXI. 97. CHAPTER XXXII. 98. Chapter VIII., but increase the ingredients to three or four times the 99. PART II. Induction, 6_s._ 100. PART III. Organic Chemistry, price 31_s._ 6_d._ 101. PART III. 3_s._ 6_d._

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