4. _Absorption_, or _Enfleurage._--The odors of some flowers are so

delicate and volatile, that the heat required in the previously named processes would greatly modify, if not entirely spoil them; this process is, therefore, conducted cold, thus:--Square frames, about three inches deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet wide and three feet long, are procured; over the glass a layer of fat is spread, about half an inch thick, with a kind of plaster knife or spatula; into this the flower buds are stuck, cup downwards, and ranged completely over it, and there left from twelve to seventy-two hours. Some houses, such as that of Messrs. Pilar and Sons; Pascal Brothers; H. Herman, and a few others, have 3000 such frames at work during the season; as they are filled, they are piled one over the other, the flowers are changed so long as the plants continue to bloom, which now and then exceeds two or three months. For oils of the same plants, coarse linen cloths are imbued with the finest olive oil or oil of ben, and stretched upon a frame made of iron; on these the flowers are laid and suffered to remain a few days. This operation is repeated several times, after which the cloths are subjected to great pressure, to remove the now perfumed oil. As we cannot give any general rule for working, without misleading the reader, we prefer explaining the process required for each when we come to speak of the individual flower or plant. SECTION III. Whenever a Still is named, or an article is said to be distilled or "drawn," it must be understood to be done so by steam apparatus, as this is the only mode which can be adopted for obtaining anything like a delicate odor; the old plan of having the fire immediately under the still, conveying an empyreumatic or burnt smell to the result, has become obsolete in every well-regulated perfumatory. The steam-still differs from the one described only in the lower part, or pan, which is made double, so as to allow steam from a boiler to circulate round the pan for the purpose of boiling the contents, instead of the direct fire. In macerating, the heat is applied in the same way, or by a contrivance like the common glue-pot, as made use of nowadays. This description of apparatus will be found very useful for experiments which we will suggest by-and-by. The perfumes for the handkerchief, as found in the shops of Paris and London, are either simple or compound; the former are called extracts, _extraits_, _esprits_, or essences, and the latter _bouquets_ and nosegays, which are mixtures of the extracts so compounded in quantity that no one flower or odor can be discovered as predominating over another; and when made of the delicate-scented flowers carefully blended, they produce an exquisite sensation on the olfactory nerve, and are therefore much prized by all who can afford to purchase them. We shall first explain the mode for obtaining the simple extracts of flowers. This will be followed by the process for preparing ambergris, musk, and civet, substances, which, though of animal origin, are of the utmost importance as forming a large part in the most approved bouquets; and we shall conclude this department of the art with recipes for all the fashionable bouquets and nosegays, the value of which, we doubt not, will be estimated according to the labor bestowed upon their analysis. In order to render the work more easy of consultation, we have adopted the alphabetical arrangement in preference to a more scientific classification. Among the collection of ottos of the East India Company at the Exhibition of 1851, were several hitherto unknown in this country, and possessing much interest. It is to be regretted, that no person having any practical knowledge of perfumery was placed on the jury of Class IV or XXIX. Had such been the case, the desires of the exhibitors would probably have been realized, and European perfumers benefited by the introduction of new odors from the East. Some of the ottos sent by a native perfumer of Benares were deemed worthy of honorable mention. Such as _Chumeylee_, _Beyla_, _Begla_, _Moteya_, and many others from the Moluccas, but without any information respecting them. We are not going to speak of, perhaps, more than a tithe of the plants that have a perfume--only those will be mentioned that are used by the operative perfumer, and such as are imitated by him in consequence of there being a demand for the article, which circumstances prevent him from obtaining in its genuine state. The first that comes under our notice is-- ALLSPICE.--The odoriferous principle of allspice, commonly called pimento, is obtained by distilling the dried fruit, before it is quite ripe, of the _Eugenia pimenta_ and _Myrtus pimenta_ with water. It is thus procured as an essential oil; it is but little used in perfumery, and when so, only in combination with other spice oils; for scenting soap it is, however, very agreeable, and much resembles the smell of cloves, and deserves more attention than it has hitherto received. Mixed in the proportion of two ounces of oil of allspice with one gallon of rectified spirit of wine, it forms what may be termed extract of allspice, which extract will be found very useful in the manufacture of low-priced bouquets. ALMONDS. "Mark well the flow'ring almonds in the wood; If od'rous blooms the bearing branches load, The glebe will answer to the sylvan reign, Great heats will follow, and large crops of grain." VIRGIL. This perfume has been much esteemed for many ages. It may be procured by distilling the leaves of any of the laurel tribe, and the kernels of stone fruit; for trade purposes, it is obtained from the bitter almonds, and exists in the skin or pellicle that covers the seed after it is shelled. In the ordinary way, the almonds are put into the press for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat oil from the nut; the cake which is left after this process is then mixed with salt and water, and allowed to remain together for about twenty-four hours prior to distillation. The reason for moistening the cake is well understood to the practical chemist, and although we are not treating the subject of perfumery in a chemical sense, but only in a practical way, it may not be inappropriate here to observe, that the essential oil of almonds does not exist ready formed to any extent in the nut, but that it is produced by a species of fermentation, from the amygdalin and emulsine contained in the almonds, together with the water that is added. Analogous substances exist in laurel leaves, and hence the same course is to be pursued when they are distilled. Some manufacturers put the moistened cake into a bag of coarse cloth, or spread it upon a sieve, and then force the stream through it; in either case, the essential oil of the almond rises with the watery vapor, and is condensed in the still-worm. In this concentrated form, the odor of almonds is far from agreeable; but when diluted with spirit, in the proportion of about one and a half ounce of the oil to a gallon of spirit or alcohol, it is very pleasant. [Illustration: Almond.] The essential oil of almonds, enters into combination with soap, cold cream, and many other materials prepared by the perfumer; for which see their respective titles. Fourteen pounds of the cake yield about one ounce of essential oil. In experiments with this substance, it must be carefully remembered that it is exceedingly _poisonous_, and, therefore, great caution is necessary in its admixture with substances used as a cosmetic, otherwise dangerous results may ensue. _Artificial Otto of Almonds._--Five or six years ago, Mr. Mansfield, of Weybridge, took out a patent for the manufacture of otto of almonds from benzole. (Benzole is obtained from tar oil.) His apparatus, according to the Report of the juries of the 1851 Exhibition, consists of a large glass tube in the form of a coil, which at the upper end divides into two tubes; each of which is provided with a funnel. A stream of nitric acid flows slowly into one of the funnels, and benzole into the other. The two substances meet at the point of union of the tubes, and a combination ensues with the evolution of heat. As the newly formed compound flows down through the coil it becomes cool, and is collected at the lower extremity; it then requires to be washed with water, and lastly with a dilute solution of carbonate of soda, to render it fit for use. Nitro-benzole, which is the chemical name for this artificial otto of almonds, has a different odor to the true otto of almonds, but it can nevertheless be used for perfuming soap. Mr. Mansfield writes to me under date of January 3d, 1855:--"In 1851, Messrs. Gosnell, of Three King Court, began to make this perfume under my license; latterly I withdrew the license from them by their consent, and since then it is not made that I am aware of." It is, however, quite common in Paris. ANISE.--The odorous principle is procured by distilling the seeds of the plant _Pimpinella anisum_; the product is the oil of aniseed of commerce. As it congeals at a temperature of about 50° Fahr., it is frequently adulterated with a little spermaceti, to give a certain solidity to it, whereby other cheaper essential oils can be added to it with less chance of detection. As the oil of aniseed is quite soluble in spirit, and the spermaceti insoluble, the fraud is easily detected. This perfume is exceedingly strong, and is, therefore, well adapted for mixing with soap and for scenting pomatums, but does not do nicely in compounds for handkerchief use. BALM, oil of Balm, called also oil of Melissa, is obtained by distilling the leaves of the _Melissa officinalis_ with water; it comes from the still tap with the condensed steam or water, from which it is separated with the tap funnel. But it is very little used in perfumery, if we except its combination in _Aqua di Argento_. BALSAM.--Under this title there are two or three substances used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru, balsam of Tolu, and balsam of storax (also called liquid amber). The first-named, is procured from the _Myroxylon peruiferum_; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in water. The latter is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong odor, like benzoin. Balsam of Tolu flows from the _Toluifera balsammum_. It resembles common resin (rosin); with the least warmth, however, it runs to a liquid, like brown treacle. The smell of it is particularly agreeable, and being soluble in alcohol makes a good basis for a bouquet, giving in this respect a permanence of odor to a perfume which the simple solution of an oil would not possess. For this purpose all these balsams are very useful, though not so much used as they might be. "ULEX has found that balsam of Tolu is frequently adulterated with common resin. To detect this adulteration he pours sulphuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when the balsam dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving sulphurous acid, but with the escape of benzoic or cinnamic acid, if no common resin is present. On the contrary, the balsam foams, blackens, and much sulphurous acid is set free, if it is adulterated with common resin."--_Archives der Pharmacie_. Balsam of storax, commonly called gum styrax, is obtained in the same manner, and possessing similar properties, with a slight variation of odor, is applicable in the same manner as the above. They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the trees that produce them are indigenous. BAY, oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential oil of laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by distillation from the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much used. BERGAMOT.--This most useful perfume is procured from the _Citrus Bergamia_, by expression from the peel of the fruit. It has a soft sweet odor, too well known to need description here. When new and good it has a greenish-yellow tint, but loses its greenness by age, especially if kept in imperfectly corked bottles. It then becomes cloudy from the deposit of resinous matter, produced by the contact of the air, and acquires a turpentine smell. It is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles, kept in a cool cellar, and in the dark; light, especially the direct sunshine, quickly deteriorates its odor. This observation may be applied, indeed, to all perfumes, except rose, which is not so spoiled. When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no other means, and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented soaps. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called "extract of bergamot," and in this state is used for the handkerchief. Though well covered with extract of orris and other matters, it is the leading ingredient in Bayley and Blew's Ess. Bouquet (see BOUQUETS). [Illustration: Styrax Benzoin.] BENZOIN, also called Benjamin.--This is a very useful substance to perfumers. It exudes from the _Styrax benzoin_ by wounding the tree, and drying, becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter place, and used to be called Amygdaloides, because of its being interspersed with several white spots, which resemble broken almonds. When heated, these white specks rise as a smoke, which is easily condensed upon paper. The material thus separated from the benzoin is called flowers of benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is termed benzoic acid. It has all, or nearly all, the odor of the resin from which it is derived. The extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms a good basis for a bouquet.[B] Like balsam of Tolu, it gives permanence and body to a perfume made with an essential oil in spirit. The principal consumption of benzoin is in the manufacture of pastilles (see PASTILLES), and for the preparation of fictitious vanilla pomade (see POMATUMS). CARAWAY.--This odoriferous principle is drawn by distillation from the seeds of the _Carum carui_. It has a very pleasant smell, quite familiar enough without description. It is well adapted to perfume soap, for which it is much used in England, though rarely if ever on the continent; when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences, in a similar way to cloves (see CLOVES). If caraway seeds are ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder (see SACHETS). CASCARILLA.--The bark is used in the formation of pastilles, and also enters into the composition known as _Eau à Bruler_, for perfuming apartments, to which we refer. The bark alone of this plant is used by the manufacturing perfumer, and that only in the fabrication of pastilles. The _Cascarilla gratissimus_ is however so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good Hope as a perfume, and both the _C. fragrans_ and _C. fragilis_ are odoriferous. It behooves perfumers, therefore, who are on the look out for novelties, to obtain these leaves and ascertain the result of their distillation. Messrs. Herring and Co., some years ago, drew the oil of cascarilla, but it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity. CASSIA.--The essential oil of cassia is procured by distilling the outer bark of the _Cinnamomum cassia_. 1 cwt. of bark yields rather more than three quarters of a pound of oil; it has a pale yellow color; in smell it much resembles cinnamon, although very inferior to it. It is principally used for perfuming soap, especially what is called "military soap," as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odor; it therefore finds no place for handkerchief use. CASSIE.-- "The short narcissus and fair daffodil, Pansies to please the sight, and _cassie_ sweet to swell." DRYDEN'S _Virgil_. This is one of those fine odors which enters into the composition of the best handkerchief bouquets. [Illustration: Flower-buds of the Acacia Farnesiana.] When smelled at alone, it has an intense violet odor, and is rather sickly sweet. It is procured by maceration from the _Acacia farnesiana_. The purified fat is melted, into which the flowers are thrown and left to digest for several hours; the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are added, eight or ten times, until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained. As many flowers are used as the grease will cover, when they are put into it, in a liquid state. After being strained, and the pomade has been kept at a heat sufficient only to retain its liquidity, all impurities will subside by standing for a few days. Finally cooled, it is the cassie pomade of commerce. The _Huile de Cassie_, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared in a similar manner, substituting the oil of Egyptian ben nut, olive oil, or almond oil, in place of suet. Both these preparations are obviously only a solution of the true essential oil of cassie flowers in the neutral fatty body. Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented pomade from South Australia, derived from the Wattle, a plant that belongs to the same genus as the _A. farnesiana_, and which grows most luxuriantly in Australia. Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle plentiful, a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the flowers, &c. To prepare the extract of cassie, take six pounds of No. 24 (best quality) cassie pomade, and place upon it one gallon of the best rectified spirit, as sent out by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has digested for three weeks or a month, at a summer heat, it is fit to draw from the pomatum, and, if good, has a beautiful green color and rich flowery smell of the cassie blossom. All extracts made by this process--_maceration_, or, as it may be called, cold _infusion_, give a more natural smell of the flowers to the result, than by merely dissolving the essential oil (procured by distillation) in the spirit; moreover, where the odor of the flower exists in only very minute quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet, jasmine, &c., it is the only practical mode of proceeding. In this, and all other similar cases, the pomatum must be cut up into very small pieces, after the domestic manner of "chopping suet," prior to its being infused in the alcohol. The action of the mixture is simply a change of place in the odoriferous matter, which leaves the fat body by the superior attraction, or affinity, as the chemists say, of the spirits of wine, in which it freely dissolves. The major part of the extract can be poured or drawn off the pomatum without trouble, but it still retains a portion in the interstices, which requires time to drain away, and this must be assisted by placing the pomatum in a large funnel, supported by a bottle, in order to collect the remainder. Finally, all the pomatum, which is now called _washed pomatum_, is to be put into a tin, which tin must be set into hot water, for the purpose of melting its contents; when the pomatum thus becomes liquefied, any extract that is still in it rises to the surface, and can be skimmed off, or when the pomatum becomes cold it can be poured from it. The washed pomatum is preserved for use in the manufacture of dressing for the hair, for which purpose it is exceedingly well adapted, on account of the purity of the grease from which it was originally prepared, but more particularly on account of a certain portion of odor which it still retains; and were it not used up in this way, it would be advisable to put it for a second infusion in spirit, and thus a weaker extract could be made serviceable for lower priced articles. I cannot leave cassie without recommending it more especially to the notice of perfumers and druggists, as an article well adapted for the purpose of the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief and pomades for the hair. When diluted with other odors, it imparts to the whole such a true flowery fragrance, that it is the admiration of all who smell it, and has not a little contributed to the great sale which certain proprietary articles have attained. We caution the inexperienced not to confound cassie with cassia, which has a totally different odor. See ACACIA POMADE. CEDAR WOOD now and then finds a place in a perfumer's warehouse; when ground, it does well to form a body for sachet powder. Slips of cedar wood are sold as matches for lighting lamps, because while burning an agreeable odor is evolved; some people use it also, in this condition, distributed among clothes in drawers to "prevent moth." On distillation it yields an essential oil that is exceedingly fragrant. Messrs. Rigge and Co., of London, use it extensively for scenting soap. LEBANON CEDAR WOOD. (_For the Handkerchief._) Otto of cedar, 1 oz. Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Esprit rose trip, 1/4 pint. The tincture smells agreeably of the wood, from which it can readily be made. Its crimson color, however, prohibits it from being used for the handkerchief. It forms an excellent tincture for the teeth, and is the basis of the celebrated French dentifrice "eau Botot." CEDRAT.--This perfume is procured from the rind of the citron fruit (_Citrus medica_), both by distillation and expression; it has a very beautiful lemony odor, and is much admired. It is principally used in the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief, being too expensive for perfuming grease or soap. What is called extract of cedrat is made by dissolving two ounces of the above essential oil of citron in one pint of spirits, to which some perfumers add half an ounce of bergamot. CINNAMON.--Several species of the plant _Laurus cinnamomum_ yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce. Its name is said to be derived from _China Amomum_, the bark being one of the most valued spices of the East. Perfumers use both the bark and the oil, which is obtained by distillation from it. The ground bark enters into the composition of some pastilles, tooth powders, and sachets. The essential oil of cinnamon is principally brought to this country from Ceylon; it is exceedingly powerful, and must be used sparingly. In such compounds as cloves answer, so will cinnamon. CITRON.--On distilling the flowers of the _Citrus medica_, a very fragrant oil is procured, which is a species of neroli, and is principally consumed by the manufacturers of eau de Cologne. CITRONELLA.--Under this name there is an oil in the market, chiefly derived from Ceylon and the East Indies; its true origin we are unable to decide; in odor it somewhat resembles citron fruit, but is very inferior. Probably it is procured from one of the grasses of the _Andropogon_ genus. Being cheap, it is extensively used for perfuming soap. What is now extensively sold as "honey" soap, is a fine yellow soap slightly perfumed with this oil. Some few use it for scenting grease, but it is not much admired in that way. CLOVES.--Every part of the clove plant (_Caryophyllus aromaticus_) abounds with aromatic oil, but it is most fragrant and plentiful in the unexpanded flower-bud, which are the cloves of commerce. Cloves have been brought into the European market for more than 2000 years. The plant is a native of the Moluccas and other islands in the China seas. "The average annual crop of cloves," says Burnett, "is, from each tree, 2 or 2-1/2 lbs., but a fine tree has been known to yield 125 lbs. of this spice in a single season, and as 5000 cloves only weigh one pound, there must have been at least 625,000 flowers upon this single tree." [Illustration: Clove.] The oil of cloves may be obtained by expression from the fresh flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation, which is carried on to a very great extent in this country. Few essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery than that of cloves; it combines well with grease, soap, and spirit, and, as will be seen in the recipes for the various bouquets given hereafter, it forms a leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences, Rondeletia, the Guard's Bouquet, &c., and will be found where least expected. For essence of cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the proportion of two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit. DILL.--Perfumers are now and then asked for "dill water;" it is, however, more a druggist's article than a perfumer's, as it is more used for its medicinal qualities than for its odor, which by the way, is rather pleasant than otherwise. Some ladies use a mixture of half dill water and half rose water, as a simple cosmetic, "to clear the complexion." The oil of dill is procured by submitting the crushed fruit of dill (_Anethum graveolens_) with water to distillation. The oil floats on the surface of the distillate, from which it is separated by the funnel in the usual manner; after the separation of the oil, the "water" is fit for sale. Oil of dill may be used with advantage, if in small proportions, and mixed with other oils, for perfuming soap. EGLANTINE, or SWEET BRIAR, notwithstanding what the poet Robert Noyes says-- "In fragrance yields, Surpassing citron groves or spicy fields," does not find a place in the perfumer's "scent-room" except in name. This, like many other sweet-scented plants, does not repay the labor of collecting its odor. The fragrant part of this plant is destroyed more or less under every treatment that it is put to, and hence it is discarded. As, however, the article is in demand by the public, a species of fraud is practised upon them, by imitating it thus:-- IMITATION EGLANTINE, OR ESSENCE OF SWEET BRIAR. Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum, 1 pint. " " cassie, 1/4 " " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " Esprit de rose, 1/4 " Oil of neroli, 1/2 drachm. Oil of lemon grass (verbena oil), 1/2 " ELDER (_Sambucus nigra_).--The only preparation of this plant for its odorous quality used by the perfumer, is elder-flower water. To prepare it, take nine pounds of elder-flowers, free from stalk, and introduce it to the still with four gallons of water; the first three gallons that come over is all that need be preserved for use; one ounce of rectified spirit should be added to each gallon of "water" distilled, and when bottled it is ready for sale. Other preparations of elder flowers are made, such as milk of elder, extract of elder, &c., which will be found in their proper place under Cosmetics. Two or three new materials made from this flower will also be given hereafter, which are likely to meet with a very large sale on account of the reputed cooling qualities of the ingredients; of these we would call attention more particularly to cold cream of elder-flowers, and to elder oil for the hair. The preparations of elder-flowers, if made according to the Pharmacopoeias, are perfectly useless, as the forms therein given show an utter want of knowledge of the properties of the materials employed. FENNEL (_Foeniculum vulgare_).--Dried fennel herb, when ground, enters into the composition of some sachet powders. The oil of fennel, in conjunction with other aromatic oils, may be used for perfuming soap. It is procurable by distillation. FLAG (SWEET) (_Acorus calamus_).--The roots, or rhizome, of the sweet flag, yield by distillation a pleasant-smelling oil; 1 cwt. of the rhizome will thus yield one pound of oil. It can be used according to the pleasure of the manufacturer in scenting grease, soap, or for extracts, but requires other sweet oils with it to hide its origin. GERANIUM (_Pelargonium odoratissimum_, rose-leaf geranium).--The leaves of this plant yield by distillation a very agreeable rosy-smelling oil, so much resembling real otto of rose, that it is used very extensively for the adulteration of that valuable oil, and is grown very largely for that express purpose. It is principally cultivated in the south of France, and in Turkey (by the rose-growers). In the department of Seine-et-Oise, at Montfort-Lamaury, in France, hundreds of acres of it may be seen growing. 1 cwt. of leaves will yield about two ounces of essential oil. Used to adulterate otto of rose, it is in its turn itself adulterated with ginger grass oil (_Andropogon_), and thus formerly was very difficult to procure genuine; on account of the increased cultivation of the plant, it is now, however, easily procured pure. Some samples are greenish-colored, others nearly white, but we prefer that of a brownish tint. When dissolved in rectified spirit, in the proportion of about six ounces to the gallon, it forms the "extract of rose-leaf geranium" of the shops. A word or two is necessary about the oil of geranium, as much confusion is created respecting it, in consequence of there being an oil under the name of geranium, but which in reality is derived from the _Andropogon nardus_, cultivated in the Moluccas. This said andropogon (geranium!) oil can be used to adulterate the true geranium, and hence we suppose its nomenclature in the drug markets. The genuine rose-leaf geranium oil fetches about 6_s._ per ounce, while the andropogon oil is not worth more than that sum per pound. And we may observe here, that the perfuming essential oils are best purchased through the wholesale perfumers, as from the nature of their trade they have a better knowledge and means of obtaining the real article than the drug-broker. On account of the pleasing odor of the true oil of rose-leaf geranium, it is a valuable article for perfuming many materials, and appears to give the public great satisfaction. HELIOTROPE.--Either by maceration or enfleurage with clarified fat, we may obtain this fine odor from the flowers of the _Heliotrope Peruvianum_ or _H. grandiflorum_. Exquisite as the odor of this plant is, at present it is not applied to use by the manufacturing perfumer. This we think rather a singular fact, especially as the perfume is powerful and the flowers abundant. We should like to hear of some experiments being tried with this plant for procuring its odor in this country, and for that purpose now suggest the mode of operation which would most likely lead to successful results. For a small trial in the first instance, which can be managed by any person having the run of a garden, we will say, procure an ordinary glue-pot now in common use, which melts the material by the boiling of water; it is in fact a water-bath, in chemical parlance--one capable of holding a pound or more of melted fat. At the season when the flowers are in bloom, obtain half a pound of fine mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it through a close hair-sieve, allow the liquefied fat, as it falls from the sieve, to drop into cold spring water; this operation granulates and washes the blood and membrane from it. In order to start with a perfectly inodorous grease, the melting and granulation process may be repeated three or four times; finally, remelt the fat and cast it into a pan to free it from adhering water. Now put the clarified suet into the macerating pot, and place it in such a position near the fire of the greenhouse, or elsewhere that will keep it warm enough to be liquid; into the fat throw as many flowers as you can, and there let them remain for twenty-four hours; at this time strain the fat from the spent flowers and add fresh ones; repeat this operation for a week: we expect at the last straining the fat will have become very highly perfumed, and when cold may be justly termed _Pomade à la Heliotrope_. The cold pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding, is now to be put into a wide-mouthed bottle, and covered with spirits as highly rectified as can be obtained, and left to digest for a week or more; the spirit then strained off will be highly perfumed; in reality it will be _extract of Heliotrope_, a delightful perfume for the handkerchief. The rationale of the operation is simple enough: the fat body has a strong affinity or attraction for the odorous body, or essential oil of the flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by contact, and becomes itself perfumed. In the second operation, the spirit has a much greater attraction for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter; the former, therefore, becomes perfumed at the expense of the latter. The same experiment may be repeated with almond oil substituted for the fat. The experiment here hinted at, may be varied with any flowers that there are to spare; indeed, by having the macerating bath larger than was mentioned above, an excellent _millefleur_ pomade and essence might be produced from every conservatory in the kingdom, and thus we may receive another enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of form and color. We hope that those of our readers who feel inclined to try experiments of this nature will not be deterred by saying, "they are not worth the trouble." It must be remembered, that very fine essences realize in the London perfumery warehouses 16_s._ per pint of 16 ounces, and that fine _flowery-scented_ pomades fetch the same sum per pound. If the experiments are successful they should be published, as then we may hope to establish a new and important manufacture in this country. But we are digressing. The odor of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds and vanilla, and is well imitated thus:-- EXTRACT OF HELIOTROPE. Spirituous extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. " " French rose pomatum, 1/4 " " " orange-flower pomatum, 2 oz. " " ambergris, 1 oz. Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops. A preparation made in this manner under the name of _Extract de Heliotrope_ is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope. HONEYSUCKLE or WOODBINE:-- "Copious of flower the woodbine, pale and wan, But well compensating her sickly looks With never-cloying odors." What the poet Cowper here says is quite true; nevertheless, it is a flower that is not used in practical perfumery, though there is no reason for abandoning it. The experiments suggested for obtaining the odor of Heliotrope and Millefleur (thousand flowers) are also applicable to this, as also to Hawthorn. A good IMITATION OF HONEYSUCKLE is made thus:-- Spirituous extract of rose pomatum, 1 pint. " " violet " 1 " " " tubereuse " 1 " Extract of vanilla, 1/4 " " Tolu, 1/4 " Otto neroli, 10 drops. " almonds, 5 " The prime cost of a perfume made in this manner would probably be too high to meet the demand of a retail druggist; in such cases it may be diluted with rectified spirit to the extent "to make it pay," and will yet be a nice perfume. The formula generally given herein for odors is in anticipation that when bottled they will retail for at least eighteen-pence the fluid ounce! which is the average price put on the finest perfumery by the manufacturers of London and Paris. HOVENIA.--A perfume under this name is sold to a limited extent, but if it did not smell better than the plant _Hovenia dulcis_ or _H. inequalis_, a native of Japan, it would not sell at all. The article in the market is made thus:-- Rectified spirit, 1 quart. Rose-water, 1/2 pint. Otto lemons, 1/2 oz. Otto of rose, 1 drachm. " cloves, 1/2 " " neroli, 10 drops. First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add the rose-water. After filtration it is ready for sale. When compounds of this kind do not become bright by passing through blotting-paper, the addition of a little carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering effectually clears them. The water in the above recipe is only added in order that the article produced may be retailed at a moderate price, and would, of course, be better without that "universal friend." JASMINE.-- "Luxuriant above all, The jasmine throwing wide her elegant sweets." This flower is one of the most prized by the perfumer. Its odor is delicate and sweet, and so peculiar that it is without comparison, and as such cannot be imitated. When the flowers of the _Jasminum odoratissimum_ are distilled, repeatedly using the water of distillation over fresh flowers, the essential oil of jasmine may be procured. It is, however, exceedingly rare, on account of the enormous cost of production. There was a fine sample of six ounces exhibited in the Tunisian department of the Crystal Palace, the price of which was 9_l._ the fluid ounce! The plant is the Yasmyn of the Arabs, from which our name is derived. In the perfumer's laboratory, the method of obtaining the odor is by absorption, or, as the French term it, _enfleurage_; that is, by spreading a mixture of pure lard and suet on a glass tray, and sticking the fresh-gathered flowers all over it, leaving them to stand a day or so, and repeating the operation with fresh flowers--the grease absorbs the odor. Finally, the pomade is scraped off the glass or slate, melted at as low a temperature as possible, and strained. Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared much in the same way. Layers of cotton wool, previously steeped in oil of ben (obtained by pressure from the blanched nuts of the _Moringa oleifera_) are covered with jasmine flowers, which is repeated several times; finally, the cotton or linen cloths which some perfumers use, are squeezed under a press. The jasmine oil thus produced is the _Huile antique au jasmin_ of the French houses. The "extract of jasmine" is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the jasmine pomade or oil, and allowing them to remain together for a fortnight at a summer heat. The best quality extract requires two pounds of pomatum to every quart of spirit. The same can be done with the oil of jasmine. If the pomade is used, it must be cut up fine previously to being put into the spirit; if the oil is used, it must be shaken well together every two or more hours, otherwise, on account of its specific gravity, the oil separates, and but little surface is exposed to the spirit. After the extract is strained off, the "washed" pomatum or oil is still useful, if remelted, in the composition of pomatum for the hair, and gives more satisfaction to a customer than any of the "creams and balms," &c. &c., made up and scented with essential oils; the one smells of the flower, the other "a nondescript." [Illustration: Jasmine.] The extract of jasmine enters into the composition of a great many of the most approved handkerchief perfumes sold by the English and French perfumers. Extract of jasmine is sold for the handkerchief often pure, but is one of those scents which, though very gratifying at first, becomes what people call "sickly" after exposure to the oxidizing influence of the air, but if judiciously mixed with other perfumes of an opposite character is sure to please the most fastidious customer. JONQUIL.--The scent of the jonquil is very beautiful; for perfumery purposes it is however but little cultivated in comparison with jasmine and tubereuse. It is prepared exactly as jasmine. The Parisian perfumers sell a mixture which they call "extract of jonquil." The plant, however, only plays the part of a godfather to the offspring, giving it its name. The so-called jonquil is made thus:-- Spirituous extract of jasmine pomade, 1 pint. " " tubereuse " 1 " " " fleur d'orange, 1/2 " Extract of vanilla, 2 fluid ounces. LAUREL.--By distillation from the berries of the _Laurus nobilis_, and from the leaves of the _Laurus cerasus_, an oil and perfumed water are procurable of a very beautiful and fragrant character. Commercially, however, it is disregarded, as from the similarity of odor to the oil distilled from the bitter almond, it is rarely, if ever, used by the perfumer, the latter being more economical. LAVENDER.--The climate of England appears to be better adapted for the perfect development of this fine old favorite perfume than any other on the globe. "The ancients," says Burnett, "employed the flowers and the leaves to aromatize their baths, and to give a sweet scent to water in which they washed; hence the generic name of the plant, _Lavandula_." Lavender is grown to an enormous extent at Mitcham, in Surrey, which is the seat of its production, in a commercial point of view. Very large quantities are also grown in France, but the fine odor of the British produce realizes in the market four times the price of that of Continental growth. Burnett says that the oil of _Lavandula spica_ is more pleasant than that derived from the other species, but this statement must not mislead the purchaser to buy the French spike lavender, as it is not worth a tenth of that derived from the _Lavandulæ veræ_. Half-a-hundred weight of good lavender flowers yield, by distillation, from 14 to 16 oz. of essential oil. All the inferior descriptions of oil of lavender are used for perfuming soaps and greases; but the best, that obtained from the Mitcham lavender, is entirely used in the manufacture of what is called lavender water, but which, more properly, should be called essence or extract of lavender, to be in keeping with the nomenclature of other essences prepared with spirit. The number of formulæ published for making a liquid perfume of lavender is almost endless, but the whole of them may be resolved into essence of lavender, simple; essence of lavender, compound; and lavender water. There are two methods of making essence of lavender:--1. By distilling a mixture of essential oil of lavender and rectified spirit; and the other--2. By merely mixing the oil and the spirit together. The first process yields the finest quality: it is that which is adopted by the firm of Smyth and Nephew, whose reputation for this article is such that it gives a good character in foreign markets, especially India, to all products of lavender of English manufacture. Lavender essence, that which is made by the still, is quite white, while that by mixture only always has a yellowish tint, which by age becomes darker and resinous. SMYTH'S LAVENDER. To produce a very fine distillate, take-- Otto of English Lavender, 4 oz. Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 5 pints. Rose-water, 1 pint. Mix and distil five pints for sale. Such essence of lavender is expensive, but at 10_s._ a pint of 14 oz! there _is_ a margin for profit. It not being convenient to the general dealer to sell distilled lavender essence, the following form, by mixture, will produce a first-rate article, and nearly as white as the above. ESSENCE OF LAVENDER. Otto of lavender, 3-1/2 oz. Rectified spirit, 2 quarts. The perfumer's retail price for such quality is 8_s._ per pint of 14 oz. Many perfumers and druggists in making lavender water or essence, use a small portion of bergamot, with an idea of improving its quality--a very erroneous opinion; moreover, such lavender quickly discolors. LAVENDER WATER.--Take: English oil of lavender, 4 oz. Spirit, 3 quarts. Rose-water, 1 pint. Filter as above, and it is ready for sale. COMMON LAVENDER WATER.--Same form as the above, substituting French lavender for the British. Recipes for Rondeletia, Lavender Bouquet, and other lavender compounds, will be given when we come to speak of compound perfumes, which will be reserved until we have finished explaining the method of making the simple essences. LEMON.--This fine perfume is abstracted from the _Citrus limonum_, by expression, from the rind of the fruit. The otto of lemons in the market is principally from Messina, where there are hundreds of acres of "lemon groves." Otto of lemons, like all the ottos of the Citrus family, is rapidly prone to oxidation when in contact with air and exposure to light; a high temperature is also detrimental, and as such is the case it should be preserved in a cool cellar. Most of the samples from the gas-heated shelves of the druggists' shops, are as much like essence of turpentine, to the smell, as that of lemons; rancid oil of lemons may, in a great measure, be purified by agitation with warm water and final decantation. When new and good, lemon otto may be freely used in combination with rosemary, cloves, and caraway, for perfuming powders for the nursery. From its rapid oxidation, it should not be used for perfuming grease, as it assists rather than otherwise all fats to turn rancid; hence pomatums so perfumed will not keep well. In the manufacture of other compound perfumes, it should be dissolved in spirit, in the proportion of six to eight ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit. There is a large consumption of otto of lemons in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne; that Farina uses it is easily discovered by adding a few drops of Liq. Ammoniæ fort. to half an ounce of his Eau de Cologne, the smell of the lemon is thereby brought out in a remarkable manner. Perhaps it is not out of place here to remark, that in attempts to discover the composition of certain perfumes, we are greatly assisted by the use of strong Liq. Ammoniæ. Certain of the essential oils combining with the Ammonia, allow those which do not do so, if present in the compound, to be smelt. LEMON GRASS.--According to Pereira, the otto in the market under this name is derived from the _Andropogon schoenanthus_ a species of grass which grows abundantly in India. It is cultivated to a large extent in Ceylon and in the Moluccas purposely for the otto, which from the plant is easily procured by distillation. Lemon grass otto, or, as it is sometimes called, oil of verbena, on account of its similarity of odor to that favorite plant, is imported into this country in old English porter and stout bottles. It is very powerful, well adapted for perfuming soaps and greases, but its principal consumption is in the manufacture of artificial essence of verbena. From its comparatively low price, great strength, and fine perfume (when diluted), the lemon grass otto may be much more used than at present, with considerable advantage to the retail shopkeeper. LILAC.--The fragrance of the flowers of this ornamental shrub is well known. The essence of lilac is obtained either by the process of maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and afterwards treating the pomatum thus formed with rectified spirit, in the same manner as previously described for cassie; the odor so much resembles tubereuse, as to be frequently used to adulterate the latter, the demand for tubereuse being at all times greater than the supply. A beautiful IMITATION OF ESSENCE OF WHITE LILAC may be compounded thus:-- Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade, 1 pint. " of orange-flower pomade, 1/4 " Otto of almonds, 3 drops. Extract of civet, 1/2 oz. The civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume of the handkerchief. LILY.--The manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the inspired writer, to "consider the lilies of the field." Rich as they are in odor, they are not cultivated for their perfume. If lilies are thrown into oil of sweet almonds, or ben oil, they impart to it their sweet smell; but to obtain anything like fragrance, the infusion must be repeated a dozen times with the same oil, using fresh flowers for each infusion, after standing a day or so. The oil being shaken with an equal quantity of spirit for a week, gives up its odor to the alcohol, and thus extract of lilies _may_ be made. But how it _is_ made is thus:-- IMITATION "LILY OF THE VALLEY." Extract of tubereuse, 1/2 pint. " jasmine, 1 oz. " fleur d'orange, 2 oz. " vanilla, 3 oz. " cassie, 1/4 pint. " rose, 1/4 " Otto of almonds, 3 drops. Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It is a perfume that is very much admired. MACE.--Ground mace is used in the manufacture of some of those scented powders called Sachets. A strong-smelling essential oil may be procured from it by distillation, but it is rarely used. MAGNOLIA.--The perfume of this flower is superb; practically, however, it is of little use to the manufacturer, the large size of the blossoms and their comparative scarcity prevents their being used, but a very excellent imitation of its odor is made as under, and is that which is found in the perfumers' shops of London and Paris. IMITATION "ESSENCE OF MAGNOLIA." Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum, 1 pint. " " rose pomatum, 2 pints. " " tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 pint. " " violet pomatum, 1/2 " Essential oil of citron, 3 drs. " " almonds, 10 drops. MARJORAM.--The otto procured by distilling _Origanum majorana_, commonly called oil of oringeat by the French, is exceedingly powerful, and in this respect resembles all the ottos from the different species of thyme, of which the marjoram is one. One hundred weight of the dry herb yields about ten ounces of the otto. Oringeat oil is extensively used for perfuming soap, but more in France than in England. It is the chief ingredient used by Gelle Frères, of Paris, for scenting their "Tablet Monstre Soap," so common in the London shops. MEADOW SWEET.--A sweet-smelling otto can be produced by distilling the _Spiræa ulmaria_, but it is not used by perfumers. MELISSA. See BALM. MIGNONETTE.--But for the exquisite odor of this little flower, it would scarcely be known otherwise than as a weed. Sweet as it is in its natural state, and prolific in odor, we are not able to maintain its characteristic smell as an essence. Like many others, during separation from the plant, the fragrance is more or less modified; though not perfect, it still reminds the sense of the odor of the flowers. To give it that sweetness which it appears to want, a certain quantity of violet is added to bring it up to the market odor. As this plant is so very prolific in odor, we think something might be done with it in England, especially as it flourishes as well in this country as in France; and we desire to see Flower Farms and organized Perfumatories established in the British Isles, for the extraction of essences and the manufacture of pomade and oils, of such flowers as are indigenous, or that thrive in the open fields of our country. Besides opening up a new field of enterprise and good investment for capital, it would give healthy employment to many women and children. Open air employment for the young is of no little consideration to maintain the stamina of the future generation; for it cannot be denied that our factory system and confined cities are prejudicial to the physical condition of the human family. To return from our digression. The essence of mignonette, or, as it is more often sold under the name of Extrait de Rézéda, is prepared by infusing the rézéda pomade in rectified spirit, in the proportion of one pound of pomade to one pint of spirit, allowing them to digest together for a fortnight, when the essence is filtered off the pomade. One ounce of extrait d'ambré is added to every pint. This is done to give permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, and does not in any way alter its odor. MIRIBANE.--The French name for artificial essence of almond (see ALMOND). MINT.--All the _Menthidæ_ yield fragrant ottos by distillation. The otto of the spear-mint (_M. viridis_) is exceedingly powerful, and very valuable for perfuming soap, in conjunction with other perfumes. Perfumers use the ottos of the mint in the manufacture of mouth-washes and dental liquids. The leading ingredient in the celebrated "eau Botot" is oil of peppermint in alcohol. A good imitation may be made thus:-- EAU DE BOTOT. Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint. " myrrh, 1 oz. Oil of peppermint, 1/2 dr. " spear mint, 1/4 dr. " cloves, 10 drops. " roses, 10 " Modifications of this formula can be readily suggested, but the main object is to retain the mint ottos, as they have more power than any other aromatic to overcome the smell of tobacco. Mouth-washes, it must be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as for a dentifrice. MYRTLE.--A very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling both flowers and leaves of the common myrtle; one hundred-weight will yield about five ounces of the volatile oil. The demand for essence of myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the perfumers' shops is very rarely a genuine article, but it is imitated thus:-- IMITATION ESSENCE OF MYRTLE. Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. " roses 1 " Extract of fleur d'orange, 1/2 pint. " tubereuse, 1/2 " " jasmine, 2 oz. Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight: it is then fit for bottling, and is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction. Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of eau d'ange, and may be prepared like rose, elder, or other flower waters. NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER.--Two distinct odors are procurable from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for procuring them. This difference of perfume from the same flower is a great advantage to the manufacturer. This curious fact is worthy of inquiry by the chemical philosopher. It is not peculiar to the orange-flower, but applies to many others, especially rose--probably to all flowers. When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process, that is, by infusion in a fatty body, we procure orange-flower pomatum, its strength and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower made in the same grease. By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of spirit, for about a fortnight at a summer heat, we obtain the extrait de fleur d'orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume surpassed by none. In this state its odor resembles the original so much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the scent of the extract from that of the flower. The peculiar flowery odor of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers, not only to sell in a pure state, but slightly modified with other _extraits_ passes for "sweet pea," "magnolia," &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance. [Illustration: Orange.] Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we procure the otto of the blossom, which is known commercially as oil of neroli. The neroli procured from the flowers of the Citrus aurantium is considered to be the finest quality, and is called "neroli petale." The next quality, "neroli bigarade," is derived from the blossoms of the _Citrus bigaradia_, or Seville orange. Another quality, which is considered inferior to the preceding, is the neroli petit grain, obtained by distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different species of the citrus. The "petale" and "bigarade" neroli are used to an enormous extent in the manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The petit grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de neroli, dissolve 1-1/2 oz. of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified spirits. Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery odor of the extrait de fleur d'orange, as derived from the same flowers by maceration; in fact, it has as different an odor as though obtained from another plant, yet in theory both these _extraits_ are but alcoholic solutions of the otto of the flower. The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli, when well freed from the oil, is imported into this country under the name of eau de fleur d'orange, and may be used, like elder-flower and rose-water, for the skin, and as an eye lotion. It is remarkable for its fine fragrance, and it is astonishing that it is not more used, being moderate in price. (See _Syringa_.) NUTMEG.--The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all. Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent bags.--See "Sachet's Powders." OLIBANUM is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It is chiefly interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent mention is made in the Holy volume.[C] "It is believed," says Burnett, "to have been one of the ingredients in the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service." Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams, probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, associated with the benzoic acid it contains. For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum to 1 gallon of the spirit. ORANGE.--Under the title "Neroli" we have already spoken of the odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom. We have now to speak of what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,--a name, however, which we cannot admit in a classified list of the "odors of plants." The otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit, is procured by expression and by distillation. The peel is rasped in order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto. Its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of a candle; the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant illumination. It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refreshing fragrance finds many admirers. It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as "Lisbon Water" and "Eau de Portugal." The following is a very useful form for preparing LISBON WATER. Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over proof), 1 gallon. Otto of orange peel, 3 oz. " lemon peel, 3 oz. " rose 1/4 oz. This is a form for EAU DE PORTUGAL. Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 1 gallon. Essential oil of orange peel, 6 oz. " lemon peel, 1 oz. " lemon grass, 1/4 oz. " bergamot, 1 oz. " otto of rose, 1/4 oz. It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet bottles, for if in any way damp from water, a minute portion of the ottos are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to the mixture. Indeed, all bottles should be _spirit rinsed_ prior to being filled with any perfume, but especially with those containing essences of orange or lemon peel. ORRIS, properly IRIS.--The dried rhizome of _Iris florentina_ has a very pleasant odor, which, for the want of a better comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets; it is, however, exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when such invidious comparisons are made. Nevertheless the perfume of iris root is good, and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a perfuming substance. The powder of orris root is very extensively used in the manufacture of sachet powders, tooth-powder, &c. It fathers that celebrated "oriental herb" known as "Odonto." For tincture of orris, or, as the perfumers call it, EXTRACT OF ORRIS, Take orris root, crushed, 7 lbs. Rectified spirits, 1 gallon. After standing together for about a fortnight, the extract is fit to take off. It requires considerable time to drain away, and, to prevent loss, the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press. This extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated bouquets, such as "Jockey Club," and others, but is never sold alone, because its odor, although grateful, is not sufficiently good to stand public opinion upon its own merits; but in combination its value is very great; possessing little aroma itself, yet it has the power of strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies; like the flint and steel, which though comparatively incombustible, readily fire inflammable bodies. PALM.--The odor of palm oil--the fat oil of commerce--is due to a fragrant principle which it contains. By infusion in alcohol, the odoriferous body is dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and is not likely to be brought into use, though several attempts have been made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have failed from bad seasons. PATCHOULY.--_Pogostemon patchouly_ (LINDLEY), _Plectranthus crassifolius_ (BURNETT), is an herb that grows extensively in India and China. It somewhat resembles our garden sage in its growth and form, but the leaves are not so fleshy. [Illustration: Patchouly.] The odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 1 cwt. of good herb will yield about 28 oz. of the essential oil, which is of a dark brown color, and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood, which it resembles in its physical character. Its odor is the most powerful of any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if mixed in the proportion of measure for measure, it completely covers the smell of all other bodies. EXTRACT OF PATCHOULY. Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. Otto of patchouly, 1-1/4 oz. " rose, 1/4 oz. The essence of patchouly thus made is that which is found in the perfumers' shops of Paris and London. Although few perfumes have had such a fashionable run, yet when smelled at in its pure state, it is far from agreeable, having a kind of mossy or musty odor, analogous to Lycopodium, or, as some say, it smells of "old coats." The characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink is due to some admixture of this herb. The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in Europe is curious. A few years ago real Indian shawls bore an extravagant price, and purchasers could always distinguish them by their odor; in fact, they were perfumed with patchouly. The French manufacturers had for some time successfully imitated the Indian fabric, but could not impart the odor. At length they discovered the secret, and began to import the plant to perfume articles of their make, and thus palm off homespun shawls as real Indian! From this origin the perfumers have brought it into use. Patchouly herb is extensively used for scenting drawers in which linen is kept; for this purpose it is best to powder the leaves and put them into muslin sacks, covered with silk, after the manner of the old-fashioned lavender-bag. In this state it is very efficacious in preventing the clothes from being attacked by moths. Several combinations of patchouly will be given in the recipes for "bouquets and nosegays." PEA (SWEET).--A very fine odor may be abstracted from the flowers of the chick-vetch by maceration in any fatty body, and then digesting the pomade produced in spirit. It is, however, rarely manufactured, because a very close IMITATION OF THE ESSENCE OF SWEET PEA. can be prepared thus:-- Extract of tuberose, 1/2 pint. " fleur d'orange, 1/2 " " rose from pomatum, 1/2 " " vanilla, 1 oz. Scents, like sounds, appear to influence the olfactory nerve in certain definite degrees. There is, as it were, an octave of odors like an octave in music; certain odors coincide, like the keys of an instrument. Such as almond, heliotrope, vanilla, and orange-blossoms blend together, each producing different degrees of a nearly similar impression. Again, we have citron, lemon, orange-peel, and verbena, forming a higher octave of smells, which blend in a similar manner. The metaphor is completed by what we are pleased to call semi-odors, such as rose and rose geranium for the half note; petty grain, neroli, a black key, followed by fleur d'orange. Then we have patchouli, sandal-wood, and vitivert, and many others running into each other. From the odors already known we may produce, by uniting them in proper proportion, the smell of almost any flower, except jasmine. The odor of some flowers resembles others so nearly that we are almost induced to believe them to be the same thing, or, at least, if not evolved from the plant as such, to become so by the action of the air-oxidation. It is known that some actually are identical in composition, although produced from totally different plants, such as camphor, turpentine, rosemary. Hence we may presume that chemistry will sooner or later produce one from the other, for with many it is merely an atom of water or an atom of oxygen that causes the difference. It would be a grand thing to produce otto of roses from oil of rosemary, or from the rose geranium oil, and theory indicates its possibility. The essential oil of almonds in a bottle that contains a good deal of air-oxygen, and but a very little of the oil, spontaneously passes into another odoriferous body, benzoic acid; which is seen in crystals to form over the dry parts of the flask. This is a natural illustration of this idea. In giving the recipe for "sweet pea" as above, we form it with the impression that its odor resembles the orange-blossom, which similarity is approached nearer by the addition of the rose and tuberose. The vanilla is used merely to give permanence to the scent on the handkerchief, and this latter body is chosen in preference to extract of musk or ambergris, which would answer the same purpose of giving permanence to the more volatile ingredients; because the vanilla strikes the same key of the olfactory nerve as the orange-blossom, and thus no new idea of a different scent is brought about as the perfume dies off from the handkerchief. When perfumes are not mixed upon this principle, then we hear that such and such a perfume becomes "sickly" or "faint" after they have been on the handkerchief a short time. PINE-APPLE.--Both Dr. Hoffman and Dr. Lyon Playfair have fallen into some error in their inferences with regard to the application of this odor in perfumery. After various practical experiments conducted in a large perfumatory, we have come to the conclusion that it cannot be so applied, simply because when the essence of pine-apple is smelled at, the vapor produces an involuntary action of the larynx, producing cough, when exceedingly dilute. Even in the infinitesimal portions it still produces disagreeable irritation of the air-pipes, which, if prolonged, such as is expected if used upon a handkerchief, is followed by intense headache. It is obvious, therefore, that the legitimate use of the essence of pine-apple (butyric ether) cannot be adapted with benefit to the manufacturing perfumer, although invaluable to the confectioner as a flavoring material. What we have here said refers to the artificial essence of pine-apple, or butyrate of ethyloxide, which, if very much diluted with alcohol, resembles the smell of pine-apple, and hence its name; but how far the same observations are applicable to the true essential oil from the fruit or epidermis of the pine-apple, remains to be seen _when_ we procure it. As the West Indian pine-apples are now coming freely into the market, the day is probably not distant when demonstrative experiments can be tried; but hitherto it must be remembered our experiments have only been performed with a body _resembling in smell_ the true essential oil of the fruit. The physical action of all ethers upon the human body is quite sufficient to prevent their application in perfumery, however useful in confectionary, which it is understood has to deal with another of the senses,--not of smell, but of taste. The commercial "essence of pine-apple," or "pine-apple oil," and "jargonelle pear-oil," are admitted only to be _labelled_ such, but really are certain organic acid ethers. For the present, then, perfumers must only look on these bodies as so many lines in the "Poetry of Science," which, for the present, are without practical application in his art. PINK.--_Dianthus Caryophyllus._--The clove pink emits a most fragrant odor, "especially at night," says Darwin. "The lavish pink that scents the garden round," is not, however, at present applied in perfumery, except in name. IMITATION ESSENCE OF CLOVE PINK. Esprit rose, 1/2 pint. " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " " " de cassie, 1/4 " " vanilla, 2 oz. Oil of cloves, 10 drops. It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing." RHODIUM.--When rose-wood, the lignum of the _Convolvulus scoparius_, is distilled, a sweet-smelling oil is procured, resembling in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose, and hence its name. At one time, that is, prior to the cultivation of the rose-leaf geranium, the distillates from rose-wood and from the root of the _Genista canariensis_ (Canary-rose-wood), were principally drawn for the adulteration of real otto of roses, but as the geranium oil answers so much better, the oil of rhodium has fallen into disuse, hence its comparative scarcity in the market at the present day, though our grandfathers knew it well. One cwt. of wood yields about three ounces of oil. Ground rose-wood is valuable as a basis in the manufacture of sachet powders for perfuming the wardrobe. The French have given the name jacaranda to rose-wood, under the idea that the plant called jacaranda by the Brazilians yields it, which is not the case; "the same word has perhaps been the origin of palisander--palixander, badly written."--_Burnett_. ROSE.-- "Go, crop the gay rose's vermeil bloom, And waft its spoils, a sweet perfume, In incense to the skies." OGILVIE. This queen of the garden loses not its diadem in the perfuming world. The oil of roses, or, as it is commonly called, the otto, or attar, of roses, is procured (contrary to so many opposite statements) simply by distilling the roses with water. The otto, or attar, of rose of commerce is derived from the _Rosa centifolia provincialis_. Very extensive rose farms exist at Adrianople (Turkey in Europe); at Broussa, now famous as the residence of Abd-el-Kader; and at Uslak (Turkey in Asia); also at Ghazepore, in India. The cultivators in Turkey are principally the Christian inhabitants of the low countries of the Balkan, between Selimno, and Carloya, as far as Philippopolis, in Bulgaria, about 200 miles from Constantinople. In good seasons, this district yields 75,000 ounces; but in bad seasons only 20,000 to 30,000 ounces of attar are obtained. It is estimated that it requires at least 2000 rose blooms to yield one drachm of otto. The otto slightly varies in odor from different districts; many places furnish an otto which solidifies more readily than others, and, therefore, this is not a sure guide of purity, though many consider it such. That which was exhibited in the Crystal Palace of 1851, as "from Ghazepore," in India, obtained the prize. "Attar of roses, made in Cashmere, is considered superior to any other; a circumstance not surprising, as, according to Hugel, the flower is here produced of surpassing fragrance as well as beauty. A large quantity of rose-water twice distilled is allowed to run off into an open vessel, placed over night in a cool running stream, and in the morning the oil is found floating on the surface in minute specks, which are taken off very carefully by means of a blade of sword-lily. When cool it is of a dark green color, and as hard as resin, not becoming liquid at a temperature about that of boiling water. Between 500 and 600 pounds' weight of leaves is required to produce one ounce of the attar."--_Indian Encyclopædia._ Pure otto of roses, from its cloying sweetness, has not many admirers; when diluted, however, there is nothing to equal it in odor, especially if mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form the esprit de rose. The soap not allowing the perfume to evaporate very fast, we cannot be surfeited with the smell of the otto. The finest preparation of rose as an odor is made at Grasse, in France. Here the flowers are not treated for the otto, but are subjected to the process of maceration in fat, or in oil, as described under jasmine, heliotrope, &c. The rose pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, say 8 lbs. of No. 24 Pomade to one gallon of spirit, yields an esprit de rose of the first order, very superior to that which is made by the addition of otto to spirit. It is difficult to account for this difference, but it is sufficiently characteristic to form a distinct odor. See the article on fleur d'orange and neroli (pp. 77, 78), which have similar qualities, previously described. The esprit de rose made from the French rose pomade is never sold retail by the perfumer; he reserves this to form part of his _recherche_ bouquets. Some wholesale druggists have, however, been selling it now for some time to country practitioners, for them to form extemporaneous rose-water, which it does to great perfection. Roses are cultivated to a large extent in England, near Mitcham, in Surrey, for perfumers' use, to make rose-water. In the season when successive crops can be got, which is about the end of June, or the early part of July, they are gathered as soon as the dew is off, and sent to town in sacks. When they arrive, they are immediately spread out upon a cool floor: otherwise, if left in a heap, they heat to such an extent, in two or three hours, as to be quite spoiled. There is no organic matter which so rapidly absorbs oxygen, and becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass of freshly gathered roses. To preserve these roses, the London perfumers immediately pickle them; for this purpose, the leaves are separated from the stalks, and to every bushel of flowers, equal to about six pounds' weight, one pound of common salt is thoroughly rubbed in. The salt absorbs the water existing in the petals, and rapidly becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty mass, which is finally stowed away in casks. In this way they will keep almost any length of time, without the fragrance being seriously injured. A good rose-water can be prepared by distilling 12 lbs. of pickled roses, and 2-1/2 gallons of water. "Draw" off two gallons; the product will be the double-distilled rose-water of the shops. The rose-water that is imported from the South of France is, however, very superior in odor to any that can be produced here. As it is a residuary product of the distillation of roses for procuring the attar, it has a richness of aroma which appears to be inimitable with English-grown roses. There are four modifications of essence of rose for the handkerchief, which are the _ne plus ultra_ of the perfumer's art. They are,--esprit de rose triple, essence of white of roses, essence of tea rose, and essence of moss rose. The following are the recipes for their formation:-- ESPRIT DE ROSE TRIPLE. Rectified alcohol, 1 gallon. Otto of rose, 3 oz. Mix at a summer heat; in the course of a quarter of an hour the whole of the otto is dissolved, and is then ready for bottling and sale. In the winter season beautiful crystals of the otto--if it is good--appear disseminated through the esprit. ESSENCE OF MOSS ROSE. Spirituous extract from French Rose pomatum, 1 quart. Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. Extracts fleur d'orange pomatum, 1 " " of ambergris, 1/2 " " musk, 4 oz. Allow the ingredients to remain together for a fortnight; then filter, if requisite, and it is ready for sale. ESSENCE OF WHITE ROSE. Esprit de rose from pomatum, 1 quart. " " triple, 1 " " violette, 1 " Extracts of jasmine 1 pint. " patchouly, 1/2 " ESSENCE OF TEA ROSE. Esprit de rose pomade, 1 pint. " " triple, 1 " Extract of rose-leaf geranium, 1 " " sandal-wood, 1/2 " " neroli, 1/4 " " orris, 1/4 " ROSEMARY.-- "There's rosemary, that's for remembrance." SHAKSPEARE. By distilling the _Rosmarinus officinalis_ a thin limpid otto is procured, having the characteristic odor of the plant, which is more aromatic than sweet. One cwt. of the fresh herb yields about twenty-four ounces of oil. Otto of rosemary is very extensively used in perfumery, especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap. Eau de Cologne cannot be made without it, and in the once famous "Hungary water" it is the leading ingredient. The following is the composition of HUNGARY WATER. Rectified alcohol, 1 gallon. Otto of English rosemary, 2 oz. " lemon-peel, 1 oz. " balm (_Melissa_), 1 oz. " mint, 1/2 drachm. Esprit de rose, 1 pint. Extract of fleur d'orange, 1 " It is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de Cologne, and is said to take its name from one of the queens of Hungary, who is reported to have derived great benefit from a bath containing it, at the age of seventy-five years. There is no doubt that clergymen and orators, while speaking for any time, would derive great benefit from perfuming their handkerchief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the rosemary they contain excites the mind to vigorous action, sufficient of the stimulant being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief wetted with these "waters." Shakspeare giving us the key, we can understand how it is that such perfumes containing rosemary are universally said to be "so refreshing!" SAGE.--A powerful-scenting otto can be procured by distillation from any of the _Salvieæ_. It is rarely used, but is nevertheless very valuable in combination for scenting soap. Dried sage-leaves, ground, will compound well for sachets. SANTAL.--_Santalum album_. "The santal tree perfumes, when riven, The axe that laid it low." CAMERON. This is an old favorite with the lovers of scent; it is the wood that possesses the odor. The finest santal-wood grows in the island of Timor, and the Santal-wood Islands, where it is extensively cultivated for the Chinese market. In the religious ceremonies of the Brahmins, Hindoos, and Chinese, santal-wood is burned, by way of incense, to an extent almost beyond belief. The _Santala_ grew plentifully in China, but the continued offerings to the Buddahs have almost exterminated the plant from the Celestial Empire; and such is the demand, that it is about to be cultivated in Western Australia, in the expectation of a profitable return, which we doubt not will be realized; England alone would consume tenfold the quantity it does were its price within the range of other perfuming substances. The otto which exists in the santal-wood is readily procured by distillation; 1 cwt. of good wood will yield about 30 ounces of otto. [Illustration: Santal-wood.] The white ant, which is so common in India and China, eating into every organic matter that it comes across, appears to have no relish for santal-wood; hence it is frequently made into caskets, jewel-boxes, deed-cases, &c. This quality, together with its fragrance, renders it a valuable article to the cabinet-makers of the East. The otto of santal is remarkably dense, and is above all others oleaginous in its appearance, and, when good, is of a dark straw color. When dissolved in spirit, it enters into the composition of a great many of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as "Marechale," and others, the formulæ of which will be given hereafter. Perfumers thus make what is called EXTRAIT DE BOIS DE SANTAL. Rectified spirits, 7 pints. Esprit de rose, 1 pint. Essential oil, _i.e._ otto, of santal, 3 oz. All those EXTRACTS, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol, are nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil used. When a perfumer has to impart a delicate _odeur_ to a lady's _mouchoir_, which in some instances costs "no end of money," and is an object, at any cost, to retain unsullied, it behooves his reputation to sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when a perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb, as tinctures are made, that is, by infusion in alcohol, there is obtained, besides the odoriferous substance, a solution of coloring and extractive matter, which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides seriously staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon; and for this reason this latter method should never be adopted, except for use upon silk handkerchiefs. The odor of santal assimilates well with rose; and hence, prior to the cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was used to adulterate otto of roses; but is now but seldom used for that purpose. By a "phonetic" error, santal is often printed "sandal," and "sandel." SASSAFRAS.--Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of the wood of the _Laurus sassafras_ in the manufacture of hair-washes and other nostrums; but as, in our opinion, it has rather a "physicky" smell than flowery, we cannot recommend the German recipes. The _Eau Athenienne_, notwithstanding, has some reputation as a hair-water, but is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras. SPIKE.--French oil of lavender, which is procured from the _Lavandula spica_, is generally called oil of spike. (See Lavender.) STORAX and TOLU are used in perfumery in the same way as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture. An ounce of tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added to a pound of any very volatile perfume, gives a degree of permanence to it, and makes it last longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would: thus, when any perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as extract of musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris, vitivert, or benzoin; the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion as to which of these materials are to be employed, choosing, of course, those which are most compatible with the odor he is making. The power which these bodies have of "fixing" a volatile substance, renders them valuable to the perfumer, independent of their aroma, which is due in many cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified by an esential oil peculiar to each substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol, together with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first: thus, after the alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos appear stronger; if it contains any resinous body, the ottos are held in solution, as it were, by the resin, and thus retained on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be made of otto only, without any "fixing" substance, then, as the perfume "dies away," the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its composition, for it spontaneously analyzes itself, no two ottos having the same volatility: thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine, and patchouly; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose, and, lastly, the patchouly, which will be found hours after the others have disappeared. SYRINGA.--The flowers of the _Philadelphus coronarius_, or common garden syringa, have an intense odor resembling the orange-blossom; so much so, that in America the plant is often termed "mock orange." A great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin, à la fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of Cannes, is nothing more than fine suet perfumed with syringa blossoms by the maceration process. Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost of what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum. THYME.--All the different species of thyme, but more particularly the lemon thyme, the _Thymus serpyllum_, as well as the marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant ottos, that are extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps; though well adapted for this purpose, they do not answer at all in any other combinations. Both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a consequence, they are not considered _recherché_. When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they usefully enter into the composition of sachet powders. TONQUIN, or TONKA.--The seeds of the _Dipterix odorata_ are the tonquin or _coumarouma_ beans of commerce. When fresh they are exceedingly fragrant, having an intense odor of newly made hay. The _Anthoxanthum odoratum_, or sweet-smelling vernal grass, to which new hay owes its odor, probably yields identically the same fragrant principle, and it is remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal grass, while actually growing, are nearly scentless, but become rapidly aromatic when severed from the parent stock. Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very interesting, containing, when fresh, a fragrant volatile otto (to which their odor is principally due), benzoic acid, a fat oil and a neutral principal--_Coumarin_. In perfumery they are valuable, as, when ground, they form with other bodies an excellent and permanent sachet, and by infusion in spirit, the tincture or extract of tonquin enters into a thousand of the compound essences; but on account of its great strength it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is "snuffy," owing to the predominance of the odor and its well-known use in the boxes of those who indulge in the titillating dust. [Illustration: Tonquin.] EXTRACT OF TONQUIN. Tonquin beans, 1 lb. Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. Digest for a month at a summer heat. Even after this maceration they are still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as POT POURRI, OLLA PODRIA, &c. The extract of tonquin, like extract of orris and extract of vanilla, is never sold pure, but is only used in the manufacture of compound perfumes. It is the leading ingredient in _Bouquet du Champ_--The field Bouquet--the great resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field, renders it a favorite to the lovers of the pastoral. TUBEROSE.--One of the most exquisite odors with which we are acquainted is obtained by _enfleurage_ from the tuberose flower. It is, as it were, a nosegay in itself, and reminds one of that delightful perfume observed in a well-stocked flower-garden at evening close; consequently it is much in demand by the perfumers for compounding sweet essences. EXTRACT OF TUBEROSE. Eight pounds of No. 24 tuberose pomatum, cut up very fine, is to be placed into 1 gallon of the best rectified spirit. After standing for three weeks or a month at summer heat, and with frequent agitation, it is fit to draw off, and being strained through cotton wool, is ready either for sale or use in the manufacture of bouquets. This essence of tuberose, like that of jasmine, is exceedingly volatile, and if sold in its pure state quickly "flies off" the handkerchief; it is therefore necessary to add some fixing ingredient, and for this purpose it is best to use one ounce of extract of orris, or half an ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint of tuberose. VANILLA.--The pod or bean of the _Vanilla planifolia_ yields a perfume of rare excellence. When good, and if kept for some time, it becomes covered with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it in composition. Few objects are more beautiful to look upon than this, when viewed by a microscope with the aid of polarized light. [Illustration: Vanilla.] EXTRACT OF VANILLA. Vanilla pods, 1/2 lb. Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the interior, then cut them up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, macerate with occasional agitation for about a month; the tincture thus formed will only require straining through cotton to be ready for any use that is required. In this state it is rarely sold for a perfume, but is consumed in the manufacture of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they are called. Extract of Vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture of hair-washes, which are readily made by mixing the extract of vanilla with either rose, orange, elder, or rosemary water, and afterwards filtering. We need scarcely mention, that vanilla is greatly used by cooks and confectioners for flavoring. VERBENA, or VERVAINE.--The scented species of this plant, the lemon verbena, _Aloysia citriodora_ (Hooker), gives one of the finest perfumes with which we are acquainted; it is well known as yielding a delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the plant; some of the little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be crushed in this act, as there is little or no odor by merely smelling at the plant. The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with water, on account of its high price, is scarcely, if ever, used by the manufacturing perfumer, but it is most successfully imitated by mixing the otto of lemon grass, _Andropogon schoenanthus_, with rectified spirit, the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety. The following is a good form for making the EXTRACT OF VERBENA. Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Otto of lemon grass, 3 drachms. " lemon peel, 2 oz. " orange peel, 1/2 oz. After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is fit for sale. Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus--it is sold under the title EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE. Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Otto of orange peel, 1 oz. " lemon peel, 2 oz. " citron, 1 drachm. " lemon grass, 2-1/2 drachms. Extrait de fleur d'orange, 7 oz. " " tubereuse, 7 oz. Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant perfumes that is made. Being white, it does not stain the handkerchief. It is best when sold fresh made, as by age the citrine oils oxidize, and the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say "it is sour." The vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title "Court Bouquet," and others which are mixtures of violet, rose, and jasmine, with verbena or vervaine in different proportions. In these preparations, as also in Eau de Portugal, and in fact where any of the citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is obtained by using grape spirit or brandy in preference to the English corn spirit as a solvent for them. Nor do they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in English. Whether this be due to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or not we cannot say, but think it is so. VIOLET.-- "The forward violet thus did I chide: Sweet thief, whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells, If not from my love's breath?" The perfume exhaled by the _Viola odorata_ is so universally admired, that to speak in its favor would be more than superfluous. The demand for the "essence of violets" is far greater than the manufacturing perfumers are at present able to supply, and as a consequence, it is difficult to procure the genuine article through the ordinary sources of trade. Real violet is, however, sold by many of the retail perfumers of the West End of London, but at a price that prohibits its use except by the affluent or extravagant votaries of fashion. The violet farms from whence the flowers are procured to make this perfume are very extensive at Nice and Grasse, also in the neighborhood of Florence. The true smelling principle or otto of violets has never yet been isolated: a very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is probably a true impression. Burnett says that the plant _Viola tricolor_ (heart's ease), when bruised, smells like peach kernels, and doubtless, therefore, contains prussic acid. The flowers of the heart's ease are scentless, but the plant evidently contains a principle which in other species of the Viola, is eliminated as the "sweet that smells" so beautifully alluded to by Shakspeare. For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet is procured in combination with spirit, oil, or suet, precisely according to the methods previously described for obtaining the aroma of some other flowers before mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine, orange-flower, namely, by maceration, or by _enfleurage_, the former method being principally adopted, followed by, when "essence" is required, digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol. Good essence of violets, thus made, is of a beautiful green color, and, though of a rich deep tint, has no power to stain a white fabric, and its odor is perfectly natural. The essence of violet, as prepared for retail sale, is thus made, according to the quality and strength of the pomade:--Take from six to eight pounds of the violet pomade, chop it up fine, and place it into one gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel oil) rectified spirit, allow it to digest for three weeks or a month, then strain off the essence, and to every pint thereof add three ounces of tincture of orris root, and three ounces of esprit de cassie; it is then fit for sale. We have often seen displayed for sale in druggists' shops plain tincture of orris root, done up in nice bottles, with labels upon them inferring the contents to be "Extract of Violet;" customers thus once "taken in" are not likely to be so a second time. A good IMITATION ESSENCE OF VIOLETS is best prepared thus-- Spirituous extract of cassie pomade, 1 pint. Esprit de rose, from pomade, 1/2 " Tincture of orris, 1/2 " Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade, 1/2 " Otto of almonds, 3 drops. After filtration it is fit for bottling. In this mixture, it is the extract of cassie which has the leading smell, but modified by the rose and tuberose becomes very much like the violet. Moreover, it has a green color, like the extract of violet; and as the eye influences the judgment by the sense of taste, so it does with the sense of smell. Extract of violet enters largely into the composition of several of the most popular bouquets, such as extract of spring flowers and many others. VITIVERT, or Kus-Kus, is the rhizome of an Indian grass. In the neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the city, this material has an extensive use by being manufactured into awnings, blinds, and sun-shades, called Tatty. During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles water over them; this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the atmosphere, in a very agreeable manner, with the odoriferous principle of the vitivert. It has a smell between the aromatic or spicy odor and that of flowers--if such a distinction can be admitted. We classify it with orris root, not that it has any odor resembling it, but because it has a like effect in use in perfumery, and because it is prepared as a tincture for obtaining its odor. About four pounds of the dried vitivert, as it is imported, being cut small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, produces the ESSENCE OF VITIVERT of the shops. In this state it is rarely used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by those who, perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in "the Eastern clime." The extract, essence, or tincture of vitivert, enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as "_Mousselaine des Indies_," for which preparation M. Delcroix, in the zenith of his fame, created quite a _furor_ in the fashionable world. [Illustration: Vitivert.] Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of otto of vitivert in 1 gallon of spirit; this preparation is stronger than the tincture, as above. MARECHALE and BOUQUET DU ROI, perfumes which have also "had their day," owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained in them. Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth, and, when ground, is used to manufacture certain sachet powders. Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation; a hundred-weight of vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, which in appearance very much resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in the museum at Kew. VOLKAMERIA.--An exquisite perfume is sold under this name, presumed, of course, to be derived from the _Volkameria inermis_ (LINDLEY). Whether it has a smell resembling the flower of that plant, or whether the plant blooms at all, we are unable to say. It is a native of India, and seems to be little known even in the botanic gardens of this country; however, the plant has a name, and that's enough for the versatile Parisian perfumer, and if the mixture he makes "takes" with the fashionable world--the plant which christens it has a fine perfume for a certainty! ESSENCE OF VOLKAMERIA. Esprit de violette, 1 pint. " tubereuse, 1 " " jasmine, 1/4 " " rose, 1/2 " Essence de muse, 2 oz. WALLFLOWER (_Cherianthus_).--Exquisite as is the odor of this flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English wallflower will meet with a demand. An IMITATION ESSENCE OF WALLFLOWER can be compounded thus:-- Extract fleur d'orange, 1 pint. " vanilla, 1/2 " Esprit de rose, 1 " Extract of orris, 1/2 " " cassie, 1/2 " Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops. Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting it up for sale. WINTER GREEN (_Trientalis Europoea_).--A perfuming otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is principally consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made. ICELAND WINTER GREEN. Esprit de rose, 1 pint. Essence of lavender, 1/4 " Extract of neroli, 1/2 " " vanilla, 1/4 " " vitivert, 1/4 " " cassie, 1/2 " " ambergris, 1/4 " We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom; it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed, it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are analogous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the processes of _maceration_, _absorption_, or _enfleurage_ for flowers, by _tincturation_ for roots, and by _distillation_ for seeds, modified under certain circumstances. There are, however, three other important derivative odors--ambergris, civet, and musk--which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them. Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being considered as primitive odors. On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or of those compound _odors_ sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named. QUANTITIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS, OR OTTOS, PAYING 1_S._ PER POUND DUTY, ENTERED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION IN THE YEAR 1852. lbs. Otto of bergamot, 28,574 " caraway, 3,602 " cassia, 6,163 " cloves, 595 Otto of lavender, 12,776 " lemon, 67,348 " peppermint, 16,059 " roses, 1,268 " spearmint, 163 " thyme, 11,418 " lemon grass, } " citronella, } 47,380 And other ottos not otherwise described, } ------- Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year, 195,346 at the duty of 1_s._ per pound, yield a revenue annually of 9,766_l._ 16_s._ It would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of cloves was exceedingly small; whereas it is probably ten times that amount. The fact is, several of the English wholesale druggists are very large distillers of this otto, leaving little or no room for the sale and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of caraway, the English production of that article is quite equal to the foreign; also, otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably to the extent of 6000 lbs. annually. There were also passed through the Custom House for home consumption, in 1852-- Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, &c., commonly called "French Pomatums," average value of 6_s._ per pound, and paying a duty of 1_s._ per pound, valued by the importers at £1,306 Perfumery not otherwise described; value £1,920 Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying a duty of 1_s._ each,[D] 19,777 Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England, say 20,000 flacons at 8_d._ = 8,000_l._ annually. The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon this low scale of duties, from the substances with which "Britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief," cannot be estimated at less than 40,000_l._ per annum. This, of course, includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home manufacture of perfumery. SECTION IV. PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN. In the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants; we now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin. The first under our notice is-- AMBERGRIS.--This substance is found in the sea, floating near the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The shores of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, are the principal places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was bought on the spot for 20_l._, but which afterwards was sold in London for more than 100_l._ (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the cause or effect of the disease. Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of vegetable production, and analogous to amber; hence its name amber-_gris_ (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production, which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely quoting the facts known more than a century ago. A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that its perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that HOMBERG found that "a vessel in which he had made a long digestion of the human fæces had acquired a very strong and perfect smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume (_odor!_) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.) Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many an agreeable smell. Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the perfumer esteems it much. ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name EXTRAIT D'AMBRE. Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. Extract of ambergris, 1 " Essence of musk, 1/4 " Extract of vanilla, 2 ounces. This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been washed. The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through the lavatory ordeal. Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes--little ivory or bone boxes perforated--which are made to contain a paste of strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter. [Illustration: Civet Cat.] CIVET.--This substance is secreted by the _Viverra civetta_, or civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between the anus and the pudendum of the creature. Like many other substances of Oriental origin, it was first brought to this country by the Dutch. When the civet cats are kept in a state of confinement, which at one time was common in Amsterdam, they are placed in strong cages, so constructed as to prevent the animal from turning round and biting the person employed in collecting the secreted substance. This operation is said to be performed twice a week, and is done by scraping out the civet with a small spoon: about a drachm at a time is thus obtained. A good deal of the civet now brought to European markets is from Calicut, capital of the province of Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates. In its pure state, civet has, to nearly all persons, a most disgusting odor; but when diluted to an infinitesimal portion, its perfume is agreeable. It is difficult to ascertain the reason why the same substance, modified only by the quantity of matter presented to the nose, should produce an opposite effect on the olfactory nerve; but such is the case with nearly all odorous bodies, especially with ottos, which, if smelled at, are far from nice, and in some cases, positively nasty--such as otto of neroli, otto of thyme, otto of patchouly; but if diluted with a thousand times its volume of oil, spirit, &c., then their fragrance is delightful. Otto of rose to many has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom, who is it that will not admit that "the rose is sweet?" The odor of civet is best imparted, not by actual contact, but by being placed in the neighborhood of absorbent materials. Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk, perfumes the paper and envelopes delightfully, and so much so, that they retain the odor after passing through the post. EXTRACT OF CIVET is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a "fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor. The French perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume. CASTOR is a secretion of the _Castor fiber_, or beaver, very similar to civet. Though we have often heard of its being used in perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case. MUSK.--This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the male animal. In the perfumery trade these little bags are called "pods," and as imported it is called "pod musk." When the musk is separated from the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called "grain musk." The musk deer (_Moschus moschatus_) is an inhabitant of the great mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into Siberia, Thibet, and China. And it is also found in the Altaic range, near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, but always on the borders of the line of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only that the musk is produced. [Illustration: Musk Pod, actual size.] It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among Eastern nations. The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still lower quality. The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A single musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk. Musk is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces each. When adulterated with the animal's blood, which is often the case, it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark, friable earth. Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered, as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration. Musk is remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor, although not in actual contact with it. It is a fashion of the present day for people to say "that they do not like musk;" but, nevertheless, from great experience in one of the largest manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires. Those substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale--so long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer "that there is no musk in it." [Illustration: The Musk Deer.] The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap, sachet powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery. The just reputation of Paris's original Windsor soap is due, in the main, to its delightful odor. The soap is, doubtless, of the finest quality, but its perfume stamps it among the _élite_--its fragrance it owes to musk. The alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the odoriferous principle of musk. If, however, a strong solution of potass be poured on to grain musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true musk smell. EXTRACT OF MUSK. Grain musk, 2 oz. Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is fit to draw off. Such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes. That extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale, is prepared thus:-- EXTRAIT DE MUSC. Extract of musk (as above), 1 pint. " ambergris, 1/2 " " rose triple, 1/4 " Mix and filter it; it is then fit for bottling. This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to our first formula, and is also more profitable to the vendor. It will be seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile odor; customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incompatible, namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, _i.e._ very volatile, and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period, _ergo_, not volatile! Small portions of extract of musk, mixed with esprit de rose, violet, tuberose, and others, do, in a measure, attain this object; that is, after the violet, &c., has evaporated, the handkerchief still retains an odor, which, although not that of the original smell, yet gives satisfaction, because it is pleasant to the nasal organ. SECTION V. AMMONIA.--Under the various titles of "Smelling Salts," "Preston Salts," "Inexhaustible Salts," "Eau de Luce," "Sal Volatile," ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies, has been very extensively consumed as material for gratifying the olfactory nerve. The perfumer uses liq. amm. fortis, that is, strong liquid ammonia, and the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, for preparing the various "salts" that he sells. These materials he does not attempt to make; in fact, it is quite out of his province so to do, but he procures them ready for his hand through some manufacturing chemist. The best preparation for smelling-bottles is what is termed INEXHAUSTIBLE SALTS, which is prepared thus:-- Liquid ammonia, 1 pint. Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm. " English lavender, 1 " " bergamot, 1/2 " " cloves, 1/2 " Mix the whole together with agitation in a very strong and well-stoppered bottle. This mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with any porous absorbent material, such as asbestos, or, what is better, sponge cuttings, that have been well beaten, washed, and dried. These cuttings can be procured at a nominal price from any of the sponge-dealers, being the trimming or roots of the Turkey sponge, which are cut off before the merchants send it into the retail market. After the bottles are filled with the sponge, it is thoroughly saturated with the scented ammonia, but no more is poured in than the sponge will retain, when the bottles are inverted; as, if by any chance the ammonia runs out and is spilt over certain colored fabrics, it causes a stain. When such an accident happens, the person who sold it is invariably blamed. When the sponge is saturated properly, it will retain the ammoniacal odor longer than any other material; hence, we presume, bottles filled in this way are called "inexhaustible," which name, however, they do not sustain more than two or three months with any credit; the warm hand soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances, and they require to be refilled. For transparent colored bottles, instead of sponge, the perfumers use what they call insoluble crystal salts (sulphate of potass). The bottles being filled with crystals, are covered either with the liquid ammonia, scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia. The necks of the bottles are filled with a piece of white cotton; otherwise, when inverted, from the non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia runs out, and causes complaints to be made. The crystals are prettier in colored bottles than the sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite as handsome, and, as before observed, it holds the ammonia better than any other material. Perfumers sell also what is called WHITE SMELLING SALTS, and PRESTON SALTS. The White Smelling Salt is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which is mixed any perfuming otto that is thought fit,--lavender otto giving, as a general rule, the most satisfaction. PRESTON SALTS, which is the cheapest of all the ammoniacal compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable salt of ammonia and lime, such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked lime. When the bottles are filled with this compound, rammed in very hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto is poured on the top prior to corking. For this purpose otto of French lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well. We need scarcely mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed over with liquid wax, that is, red or black wax dissolved in alcohol, to which a small portion of ether is added. The only other compound of ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is Eau de Luce, though properly it belongs to the druggist. When correctly made--which is very rarely the case--it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber, which renders it characteristic. EAU DE LUCE. Tincture of benzoin: or, } " balsam of Peru, } 1 oz. Otto of lavender, 10 drops. Oil of amber, 5 " Liquor ammonia, 2 oz. If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but it must not be filtered, as it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion. ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--The pungency of the odor of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the art of perfumery. The acetic acid, evolved by distilling acetate of copper (verdigris), is the true "aromatic" vinegar of the old alchemists. The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid aromatized with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus-- AROMATIC VINEGAR. Concentrated acetic acid, 8 oz. Otto of English lavender, 2 drachms. " " rosemary, 1 drachm. " cloves, 1 " " camphor, 1 oz. First dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid, then add the perfumes; after remaining together for a few days, with occasional agitation, it is to be strained, and is then ready for use. Several forms for the preparation of this substance have been published, almost all of which, however, appear to complicate and mystify a process that is all simplicity. The most popular article of this kind is-- HENRY'S VINEGAR. Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each, 1/2 oz. Bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each, 1/4 oz. Alcohol (rectified), 4 oz. Concentrated acetic acid, 16 oz. Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit; then add the acid, and digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 14° C. or 15° C. Finally, press out the new aromatized acid, and filter it. As this mixture must not go into the ordinary metallic tincture press, for the obvious reason of the chemical action that would ensue, it is best to drain as much of the liquor away as we can, by means of a common funnel, and then to save the residue from the interstices of the herbs, by tying them up in a linen cloth, and subjecting them to pressure by means of an ordinary lemon-squeezer, or similar device. VINAIGRE A LA ROSE. Concentrated acetic acid, 1 oz. Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm. Well shaken together. It is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be made in a similar manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto of roses. All these concentrated vinegars are used in the same way as perfumed ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an ornamental "smelling" bottle, previously filled with crystals of sulphate of potash, which forms the "sel de vinaigre" of the shops; or upon sponge into little silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their French origin. The use of these vinegars had their origin in the presumption of keeping those who carried them from the effects of infectious disease, doubtless springing out of the story of the "four thieves' vinegar," which is thus rendered in Lewis's Dispensatory: "It is said that during the plague at Marseilles, four persons, by the use of this preservative, attended, unhurt, multitudes of those that were affected; that under the color of these services, they robbed both the sick and the dead; and that being afterwards apprehended, one of them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the prophylactic (a very likely story!!), which was as follows:-- VINAIGRE DES QUATRE VOLEURS, OR FOUR THIEVES' VINEGAR. Take fresh tops of common wormwood, Roman wormwood, rosemary, sage, mint, and rue, of each, 3/4 oz. Lavender flowers, 1 oz. Garlic, calamus aromaticus, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, each, 1 drachm. Camphor, 1/2 oz. Alcohol or brandy, 1 oz. Strong vinegar, 4 pints. Digest all the materials, except the camphor and spirit, in a closely covered vessel for a fortnight, at a summer heat; then express and filter the vinaigre produced, and add the camphor previously dissolved in the brandy or spirit." A very similar and quite as effective a preparation may be made by dissolving the odorous principle of the plants indicated in a mixture of alcohol and acetic acid. Such preparations, however, are more within the province of the druggist than perfumer. There are, however, several preparations of vinegar which are sold to some extent for mixing with the water for lavatory purposes and the bath, their vendors endeavoring to place them in competition with Eau de Cologne, but with little avail. Among them may be enumerated-- HYGIENIC OR PREVENTIVE VINEGAR. Brandy, 1 pint. Otto of cloves, 1 drachm. " lavender, 1 " " marjoram, 1/2 drachm. Gum benzoin, 1 oz. Macerate these together for a few hours, then add-- Brown vinegar, 2 pints. and strain or filter, if requisite, to be bright. TOILET VINEGAR (_à la Violette_). Extract of cassie, 1/2 pint. " orris, 1/4 " Esprit de rose, triple, 1/4 " White wine vinegar, 2 pints. TOILET VINEGAR (_à la Rose_). Dried rose-leaves, 4 oz. Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 pint. White wine vinegar, 2 pints. Macerate in a close vessel for a fortnight, then filter and bottle for sale. VINAIGRE DE COLOGNE. To eau de Cologne, 1 pint, Add, strong acetic acid, 1/2 oz. Filter if necessary. Without unnecessarily repeating similar formulæ, it will be obvious to the reader that vinegar of any flower may be prepared in a similar way to those above noticed; thus, for vinaigre à la jasmine, or for vinaigre à la fleur d'orange, we have only to substitute the esprit de jasmine, or the esprit de fleur d'orange, in place of the Eau de Cologne, to produce orange-flower or jasmine vinegars; however, these latter articles are not in demand, and our only reason for explaining how such preparations may be made, is in order to suggest the methods of procedure to any one desirous of making them leading articles in their trade. We perhaps may observe, _en passant_, that where economy in the production of any of the toilet vinegars is a matter of consideration, they have only to be diluted with rose-water down to the profitable strength required. Any of the perfumed vinegars that are required to produce opalescence, when mixed with water, must contain some gum-resin, like the hygienic vinegar, as above. Either myrrh, benzoin, storax, or tolu, answer equally well. SECTION VI. BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. In the previous articles we have endeavored to explain the mode of preparing the primitive perfumes--the original odors of plants. It will have been observed, that while the majority can be obtained under the form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty body. Of the latter are included all that are most prized, with the exception of otto of rose--that diamond among the odoriferous gems. Practically, we have no essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla, Acacia, Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others. What we know of these odors is derived from esprits, obtained from oils or fats, in which the several flowers have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards infusing such fats or oils in alcohol. Undoubtedly, these odors are the most generally pleasing, while those made from the essential oils (_i.e._ otto), dissolved in spirit, are of a secondary character. The simple odors, when isolated, are called ESSENTIAL OILS or OTTOS; when dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol, by the English they are termed ESSENCES, and by the French EXTRAITS or ESPRITS; a few exceptions prove this rule. Essential oil of orange-peel, and of lemon-peel, are frequently termed in the trade "Essence" of orange and "Essence" of lemons, instead of essential oil or otto of lemons, &c. The sooner the correct nomenclature is used in perfumery, as well as in the allied arts, the better, and the fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory. It appears to the writer, that if the nomenclature of these substances were revised, it would be serviceable; and he would suggest that, as a significant, brief, and comprehensive term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that such and such a body is the odoriferous principle of the plant. We should then have otto of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender, &c. &c. In this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used the word OTTO in place of "essential oil," in accordance with his views. Where there exists a solution of an essential oil in a fat oil, the necessity of some such significant distinction is rendered obvious, for commercially such articles are still called "oils"--oil of jasmine, oil of roses, &c. It cannot be expected that the public will use the words "fat" oil and "essential" oil, to distinguish these differences of composition. There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants should not be denominated oils. In the first place, it is a bad principle to give any class of substances the same signification as those belonging to another. Surely, there are enough distinguishing qualities in their composition, their physical character, and chemical reaction, to warrant the application of a significant name to that large class of substances known as the aroma of plants! When the chemical nomenclature was last revised, the organic bodies were little dealt with. We know that we owe this universal "oil" to the old alchemist, much in the same way as "spirit" has been used, but a little consideration quickly indicates the folly of its continued use. We can no longer call otto of rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential oil of rosemary or nutmegs, with any more propriety than we can term sulphuric acid "oil" of vitriol. All the chemical works speak of the odoriferous bodies as "essential" or "volatile" oils, and of the greasy bodies as "fat" or "unctuous" oils. Oils, properly so called, unite with salifiable bases and form soap; whereas the essential or volatile oils, _i.e._ what we would please to call the ottos, do no such thing. On the contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances. The word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its literal meaning refers--fat, unctuous, inodorous (when pure), greasy substances--and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil. We have grappled with "spirit," and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense; we have no longer "spirit" of salt, or "spirit" of hartshorn. Let us no longer have almond oil "essential," almond oil "unctuous," and the like. It remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulæ for preparing the most favorite "bouquets" and "nosegays." These, as before stated, are but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended, produce an agreeable and characteristic odor,--an effect upon the smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure. THE ALHAMBRA PERFUME. Extract of tubereuse, 1 pint. " geranium, 1/2 " " acacia, 1/4 " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " " civet, 1/4 " THE BOSPHORUS BOUQUET. Extract of acacia, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange, } " tubereuse, } " civet, 1/4 " Otto of almonds, 10 drops. BOUQUET D'AMOUR. Esprit de rose, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " violette, } " cassie, } Extract of musk, } of each, 1/2 " " ambergris, } Mix and filter. BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D'ANDORRE. Extrait de jasmine, } " rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " violette, } " tuberose, } Extract of orris, 1 " Otto of geranium, 1/4 oz. BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET. Extrait de fleur d'orange,} " cassie, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " rose, } Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " " ambergris, } Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. " lavender, 1/2 " " rose, 1 " BOUQUET DE CAROLINE; ALSO CALLED BOUQUET DES DELICES. Extrait de rose, } " violette, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " tuberose, } Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, } " Limette, } of each, 1/4 oz. " cedret, } THE COURT NOSEGAY. Extrait de rose, } " violette, } of each, 1 pint. " jasmine, } Esprit de rose triple, 1 " Extract of musk, } of each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of lemon, } of each, 1/2 oz. " bergamot, } " neroli, 1 drachm. EAU DE CHYPRE. This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the _Cyperus esculentus_ by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus-- Extract of musk, 1 pint. " ambergris, } " vanilla, } of each, 1/2 " " tonquin bean, } " orris, } Esprit de rose triple, 2 pints. The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be made. EMPRESS EUGENIE'S NOSEGAY. Extract of musk, } " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. " tonquin, } " neroli, } " geranium, } " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " " santal, } ESTERHAZY BOUQUET. Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade), 1 pint. Esprit de rose triple, 1 " Extract of vitivert, } " vanilla, } of each, 2 " " orris, } " tonquin, } Esprit de neroli, 1 " Extract of ambergris, 1/2 " Otto of santal, 1/2 drachm. " cloves, 1/2 " Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited greater _furor_ while in fashion. ESS BOUQUET. The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London, who are, in truth, the original makers. Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. Extract of ambergris, 2 oz. " orris, 8 " Otto of lemons, 1/4 " " bergamot, 1 " The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere contraction of "essence" of bouquet. EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La première qualité._) Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof, 6 gallons. Otto of neroli, _Petale_, 3 oz. " " _Bigarade_, 1 " " rosemary, 2 " " orange-peel, 5 " " citron-peel, 5 " " bergamot-peel, 2 " Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly quiet, before bottling. EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La deuxième qualité._) Spirit (from corn), 6 gallons. Otto of neroli, _Petit-grain_, 2 oz. " " _Petale_, 1/2 " " rosemary, 2 " " orange-peel, } " lemon, } of each, 4 " " bergamot, } Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place, not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called "refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity" of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other. The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to fusel oil. So powerful is the oeanthic ether in the French spirit, that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of this substance. Although very fine Eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above, yet it is better, first, to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit, and then to distil the mixture, afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies, such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne. A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c. All these, however, are but hum--! Where it is a mere matter of profit, and the formula that we have given is too expensive to produce the article required, it is better to dilute the said Cologne with a weak spirit, or with rose-water, rather than otherwise alter its form; because, although weak, the true aroma of the original article is retained. The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show that a very decent article can be produced with English spirit. FLOWERS OF ERIN. Extract of white rose (see WHITE ROSE), 1 pint. " vanilla, 1 oz. ROYAL HUNT BOUQUET. Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. " neroli, } " acacia, } " fleur d'orange, } of each 1/4 " " musk, } " orris, } " tonquin, 1/2 " Otto of citron 2 drachms. BOUQUET DE FLORA; OTHERWISE, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS. Esprit de rose,} " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " violette, } Extract of benzoin, 1-1/2 oz. Otto of bergamot, 2 " " lemon, } " orange, } of each, 1/2 " THE GUARDS' BOUQUET. Esprit de rose, 2 pints. " neroli, 1/2 pint. Extract of vanilla, 2 oz. " orris, 2 " " musk, 1/4 pint. Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm. FLEUR D'ITALIE; OR ITALIAN NOSEGAY. Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pints. " rose triple, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " violette, } from pomade, each, 1 " Extract of cassie, 1/2 " " musk, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_English formula._) Extract of orris root, 2 pints. Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " Extrait de cassie, } " tubereuse, } de pomade, of each 1/2 " " ambergris, } 1/2 " Otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz. JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_French formula._) Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pint. " tubereuse, 1 " " cassie, 1/2 " " jasmine, 1/4 " Extract of civet, 3 oz. Independently of the materials employed being different to the original English recipe, it must be remembered that all the French perfumes are made of brandy, _i.e._ grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on account of the predominance of its own aroma. We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly admit that _some_ odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with the British spirit. All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it. This solves the paradox that English extract of violet and its compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown there. On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between "Patent British" and foreign brandy. Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in this country as British brandy is in truth grape spirit, that is, foreign brandy very largely diluted with English spirit! By this scheme, a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained; the difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of the "capsuled" article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated Cognac. Some chemists, not being very deep in the "tricks of trade," have thought that some flavoring, or that oeanthic ether, was used to impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma. An article is even in the market called "Essence of Cognac," but which is nothing more than very badly made butyric ether. On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation of the molasses from beet-root; this, of course, finds its way into the market, and is often mixed with the grape spirit; so, also, in England we have spirit from potatoes, which is mixed in the corn spirit. These adulterations, if we may so term it, modify the relative odors of the primitive alcohols. A JAPANESE PERFUME. Extract of rose triple, } " vitivert, } " patchouly, } of each, 1/2 pint. " cedar, } " santal, } " vervaine, 1/4 " KEW GARDEN NOSEGAY. Esprit de neroli (_Petale_), 1 pint. " cassie, } " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " jasmine, } " geranium, 1/2 " " musk, } of each, 3 oz. " ambergris, } EAU DES MILLEFLEURS. Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. " rose de pomade,} " tubereuse, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange,} " cassie, } " violette, } Extract of cedar, 1/4 " Extract of vanilla, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. " musk, } Otto of almonds, } " neroli, } of each, 10 drops. " cloves, } " bergamot, 1 oz. These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then filtered prior to sale. MILLEFLEURS ET LAVENDER. Essence of lavender (_Mitcham_), 1/2 pint. Eau des millefleurs, 1 " DECROIX'S MILLEFLOWER LAVENDER. Spirits from grape, 1 pint. French otto of lavender, 1 oz. Extract of ambergris, 2 oz. The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, and has almost superseded the original preparations. There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients. BOUQUET DU MARECHALE. Esprit de rose triple, } } of each, 1 pint. Extrait de fleur d'orange, } " vitivert, } " vanilla, } " orris, } of each, 1/2 " " tonquin, } Esprit de neroli, } Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, } of each, 1/2 drachm. " santal, } EAU DE MOUSSELAINE. Bouquet maréchale, 1 pint. Extrait de cassie, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " tubereuse,} " rose, } Otto of santal, 2 drachms. BOUQUET DE MONTPELLIER. Extrait de tubereuse, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " " rose triple, 1 " Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 " " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, 1-1/2 drachm. " bergarmot, 1/2 oz. CAPRICE DE LA MODE. Extrait de jasmine, } " tubereuse, } of each, 1/2 pint. " cassie, } " fleur d'orange, } Otto of almonds, 10 drops. " nutmegs, 10 " Extract of civet, 1/4 pint. MAY FLOWERS. Extract of rose (de pomade), } " jasmine, } of each, 1/2 pint. " fleur d'orange, } " cassie, } " vanilla, 1 " Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. NEPTUNE, OR NAVAL NOSEGAY. Extrait de rose, triple, } " santal, } of each, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, } " patchouly, } " verbena, 1/8 " BOUQUET OF ALL NATIONS. Countries wherein the Odors are produced. TURKEY, Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. AFRICA, Extract of jasmine, 1/2 " ENGLAND, " lavender, 1/4 " FRANCE, " tubereuse, 1/2 " SOUTH AMERICA, " vanilla, 1/4 " TIMOR, " santal, 1/4 " ITALY, " violet, 1 " HINDOOSTAN, " patchouly, 1/4 " CEYLON, Otto of citronella, 1 drachm. SARDINIA, " lemons, 1/4 oz. TONQUIN, Extract of musk, 1/4 pint. ISLE OF WIGHT BOUQUET. Extract of orris, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, 1/4 " " santal, 1 " " rose, 1/2 " BOUQUET DU ROI. Extract of jasmine, } " violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " rose } " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. " vitivert, } " musk, } of each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm. BOUQUET DE LA REINE. Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. Extrait de violette, } " tubereuse, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. RONDELETIA. The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors, Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the _name_ of this odor from the _Rondeletia_, the _Chyn-len_ of the Chinese; or from the R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are united, the compound color is known as puce or violet. Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised, is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most delicate. Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains. By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the general benefit of health. To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed formulæ, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its peculiar character--that is, cloves and lavender--it contains musk, vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the handkerchief. ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA. Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon. Otto of lavender, 2 oz. " cloves, 1 oz. " roses, 3 drachms. " bergamot, 1 oz. Extract of musk, } " vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, } The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale. Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit. BOUQUET ROYAL. Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint. Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 " Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 " " violet, } " verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, } Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz. " bergamot, } Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } SUAVE. Extract of tubereuse, } " jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " cassie, } " rose, } " vanilla, 5 oz. " musk, } each, 2 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm. SPRING FLOWERS. Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " violet, } " rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, 2-1/2 oz. Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms. Extract of ambergris, 1 oz. The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that does not attempt an imitation. TULIP NOSEGAY. Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name, and makes an excellent imitation thus:-- Extract of tubereuse, } from pomade each, 1 pint. " violet, } " rose, 1/2 " " orris, 3 oz. Otto of almonds, 3 drops. VIOLETTE DES BOIS. Under the head Violet, we have already explained the method of preparing the extract or essence of that modest flower. The Parisian perfumers sell a mixture of violet, which is very beautiful, under the title of the Violet des Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus:-- Extract of violet, 1 pint. " orris, 3 oz. " cassie, 3 oz. " rose (from pomade) 3 oz. Otto of almonds, 3 drops. This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer than the pure violet. WINDSOR CASTLE BOUQUET. Alcohol, 1 pint. Otto of neroli, } " rose, } each, 1/4 oz. " lavender, } " bergamot, } " cloves, 8 drops. Extract of orris, 1 pint. " jasmine, } each, 1/4 " " cassie, } " musk, } each, 2-1/2 oz. " ambergris, } YACHT CLUB BOUQUET. Extract of santal, 1 pint. " neroli, 1 " " jasmine, } each, 1/2 " " rose triple, } " vanilla, 1/4 " Flowers of benzoin, 1/4 oz. We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular. Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically tried. Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles. SECTION VII. The previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes; the present matter relates, to Dry Perfumes,--sachet powders, tablets, pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. &c. The perfumes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere: that they were very extensively used and much valued, we have only to read the Scriptures for proofs:--"Who is this that cometh ... perfumed with myrrh and frankincense, with all the powders of the merchant?" (Song of Solomon, 3:6.) Abstaining from the use of perfume in Eastern countries is considered as a sign of humiliation:--"The Lord will take away the tablets, and it shall come to pass that instead of a sweet smell there shall be a stink." (Exod. 35:22; Isaiah 3:20, 24.) The word tablets in this passage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid, made of metal, wood, and ivory. Some of these boxes may have been made in the shape of buildings, which would explain the word _palaces_, in Psalm 14:8:--"All thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and cassia, out of the ivory palaces, whereby they have made thee glad." From what is said in Matt. 2:11, it would appear that perfumes were considered among the most valuable gifts which man could bestow;--"And when they (the wise men) had opened their treasures, they presented unto him (Christ) gifts; gold, and frankincense, and myrrh." As far as we are able to learn, all the perfumes used by the Egyptians and Persians during the early period of the world were _dry_ perfumes, consisting of spikenard (_Nardostachys jatamansi_), myrrh, olibanum, and other gum-resins, nearly all of which are still in use by the manufacturers of odors. Among the curiosities shown at Alnwick Castle is a vase that was taken from an Egyptian catacomb. It is full of a mixture of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a pleasant odor to the present day, although probably 3000 years old. We have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were for perfuming apartments, in the same way that pot pourri is now used. SACHET POWDERS. The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes, find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted. SACHET AU CYPRE. Ground rose-wood, 1 lb. " cedar-wood, 1 lb. " santal-wood, 1 lb. Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose, 3 drachms. Mix and sift; it is then fit for sale. SACHET A LA FRANGIPANNE. Orris-root powder, 3 lbs. Vitivert powder, 1/4 lb. Santal-wood powder, 1/4 lb. Otto of neroli, } " rose, } of each, 1 drachm. " santal, } Musk-pods, ground, 1 oz. The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called rosolis, or ros-solis, _sun-dew_, an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk. HELIOTROPE SACHET. Powdered orris, 2 lbs. Rose leaves, ground, 1 lb. Tonquin beans, ground, 1/2 lb. Vanilla beans, 1/4 lb. Grain musk, 1/4 oz. Otto of almonds, 5 drops. Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is fit for sale. It is one of the best sachets made, and is so perfectly _au naturel_ in its odor to the flower from which it derives its name, that no person unacquainted with its composition would, for an instant, believe it to be any other than the "real thing." LAVENDER SACHET. Lavender flowers, ground, 1 lb. Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb. Otto of lavender, 1/4 oz. SACHET A LA MARECHALE. Powder of santal-wood, 1/2 lb. " orris-root, 1/2 lb. Rose-leaves, ground, 1/4 lb. Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb. Cassia-bark, 1/4 lb. Grain musk, 1/2 drachm. SACHET A LA MOUSSELAINE. Vitivert, in powder, 1 lb. Santal-wood, } Orris, } each, 1/2 lb. Black-currant leaves (_casse_), 1/2 lb. Benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb. Otto of thyme, 5 drops. " roses, 1/2 drachm. MILLEFLEUR SACHET. Lavender-flowers, ground, } Orris, } each, 1 lb. Rose-leaves, } Benzoin, } Tonquin, } Vanilla, } each, 1/4 lb. Santal, } Musk and civet, 2 drachms. Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb. Cinnamon, } each, 2 oz. Allspice, } PORTUGAL SACHET. Dried orange-peel, 1 lb. " lemon-peel, 1/2 lb. " orris-root, 1/2 lb. Otto of orange-peel, 1 oz. " neroli, 1/4 drachm. " lemon-grass, 1/4 " PATCHOULY SACHET. Patchouly herb, ground, 1 lb. Otto of patchouly, 1/4 drachm. Patchouly herb is often sold in its natural state, as imported, tied up in bundles of half a pound each. POT POURRI. This is a mixture of dried flowers and spices _not_ ground. Dried lavender, 1 lb. Whole rose-leaves, 1 lb. Crushed orris (coarse), 1/2 lb. Broken cloves, } " cinnamon, } each, 2 oz. " allspice, } Table salt, 1 lb. We need scarcely observe that the salt is only used to increase the bulk and weight of the product, in order to sell it cheap. OLLA PODRIDA. This is a similar preparation to pot pourri. No regular form can be given for it, as it is generally made, or "knocked up," with the refuse and spent materials derived from other processes in the manufacture of perfumery; such as the spent vanilla after the manufacture of tincture or extract of vanilla, or of the grain musk from the extract of musk, orris from the tincture, tonquin beans, after tincturation, &c. &c., mixed up with rose-leaves, lavender, or any odoriferous herbs. ROSE SACHET. Rose heels or leaves, 1 lb. Santal-wood, ground, 1/2 lb. Otto of roses, 1/4 oz. SANTAL-WOOD SACHET. This is a good and economical sachet, and simply consists of the ground wood. Santal-wood is to be purchased from some of the wholesale drysalters; the drug-grinders are the people to reduce it to powder for you--any attempt to do so at home will be found unavailable, on account of its toughness. SACHET (_without a name_). Dried thyme, } " lemon thyme, } of each, 1/4 lb. " mint, } " marjoram, } " lavender, 1/2 lb. " rose heels, 1 lb. Ground cloves, 2 oz. Allspice, 2 oz. Musk in grain, 1 drachm. VERVAIN SACHET. Lemon-peel, dried and ground, 1 lb. " thyme, 1/4 lb. Otto of lemon-grass, 1 drachm. " " peel, 1/2 oz. " bergamot, 1 oz. VITIVERT SACHET. The fibrous roots of the _Anthoxanthum muricatum_ being ground, constitute the sachet, bearing the name as above, derived from the Tamool name, _vittie vayer_, and by the Parisian _vetiver_. Its odor resembles myrrh. Vitivert is more often sold tied up in bunches, as imported from India, than ground, and is used for the prevention of moth, rather than as a perfume. VIOLET SACHET. Black-currant leaves (_casse_), 1 lb. Rose heels or leaves, 1 lb. Orris-root powder, 2 lbs. Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. Grain musk, 1 " Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/2 lb. Well mix the ingredients by sifting; keep them together for a week in a glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale. There are many other sachets manufactured besides those already given, but for actual trade purposes there is no advantage in keeping a greater variety than those named. There are, however, many other substances used in a similar way; the most popular is the PEAU D'ESPAGNE. Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, is nothing more than highly perfumed leather. Good sound pieces of wash leather are to be steeped in a mixture of ottos, in which are dissolved some odoriferous gum-resins, thus:--Otto of neroli, otto of rose, santal, of each half an ounce; otto of lavender, verbena, bergamot, of each a quarter of an ounce; otto of cloves and cinnamon, of each two drachms; with any others thought fit. In this mixture dissolve about two ounces of gum benzoin; now place the skin to steep in it for a day or so, then hang it over a line to dry. A paste is now to be made by rubbing in a mortar one drachm of civet with one drachm of grain musk, and enough solution of gum acacia or gum tragacantha to give it a spreading consistence; a little of any of the ottos that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet, &c., greatly assists in making the whole of an equal body; the skin being cut up into pieces of about four inches square are then to be spread over, plaster fashion, with the last-named compost; two pieces being put together, having the civet plaster inside them, are then to be placed between sheets of paper, weighed or pressed, and left to dry thus for a week; finally, each double skin, now called peau d'Espagne, is to be enveloped in some pretty silk or satin, and finished off to the taste of the vender. Skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years, and hence they are frequently called "the inexhaustible sachet." Being flat, they are much used for perfuming writing-paper. The lasting odor of Russia leather is familiar to all and pleasing to many; its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which it is tanned, and to the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree, with which it is curried. The odor of Russia leather is, however, not _recherché_ enough to be considered as a perfume; but, nevertheless, leather can be impregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any sweet scent, and which it retains to a remarkable degree, especially with otto of santal or lemon-grass (_Verbena_). In this manner the odor of the peau d'Espagne can be greatly varied, and gives great satisfaction, on account of the permanence of its perfume. PERFUMED LETTER-PAPER. If a piece of peau d'Espagne be placed in contact with paper, the latter absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as "perfumed;" it is obvious that paper for writing upon must not be touched with any of the odorous tinctures or ottos, on account of such matters interfering with the fluidity of the ink and action of the pen; therefore, by the process of infection, as it were, alone can writing paper be perfumed to advantage. Besides the sachets mentioned there are many other substances applied as dry perfumes, such as scented wadding, used for quilting into all sorts of articles adapted for use in a lady's boudoir. Pincushions, jewel cases, and the like are lined with it. Cotton, so perfumed, is simply steeped in some strong essence of musk, &c. PERFUMED BOOK-MARKERS. We have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne; just so is card-board treated prior to being made up into book-marks. In finishing them for sale, taste alone dictates their design; some are ornamented with beads, others with embroidery. CASSOLETTES AND PRINTANIERS. Cassolettes and Printaniers are little ivory boxes, of various designs, perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein. The paste used for filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made glad," is composed of equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or gum tragacantha, to work the whole together into a paste. These things are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much in the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinagrettes are used. PASTILS. There is no doubt whatever that the origin of the use of pastils, or pastilles, as they are more often called, from the French, has been derived from the use of incense at the altars of the temples during the religious services:--"According to the custom of the priest's office, his lot (Zacharias') was to burn incense when he went into the temple of the Lord." (Luke 1:9.) "And thou shalt make an altar to burn incense.... And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning when he dresseth the lamps, and at even when he lighteth the lamps he shall burn incense upon it." (Exodus 30.) An analogous practice is in use to the present day in the Roman Catholic churches, but, instead of being consumed upon an altar, the incense is burned in a censer, as doubtless many of our readers have seen. "As soon as the signal was given by the chief priest the incense was kindled, the holy place was filled with perfume, and the congregation without joined in prayers." (_Carpenters Temple service of the Hebrews._) THE CENSER. "On the walls of every temple in Egypt, from Meröe to Memphis, the censer is depicted smoking before the presiding deity of the place; on the walls of the tombs glow in bright colors the preparation of spices and perfumes." In the British Museum there is a vase (No. 2595) the body of which is intended to contain a lamp, the sides being perforated to admit the heat from the flame to act upon the projecting tubes; which are intended to contain ottos of flowers placed in the small vases at the end of the tubes; the heat volatilizes the ottos, and quickly perfumes an apartment. This vase or censer is from an Egyptian catacomb. [Illustration: The Censer.] The Censer, as used in the "holy places," is made either of brass, German silver, or the precious metals; its form somewhat resembles a saucer and an inverted cup, which latter is perforated, to allow the escape of the perfume. In the outer saucer is placed an inner one of copper, which can be taken out and filled with ignited charcoal. When in use, the ignited carbon is placed in the censer, and is then covered with the incense; the heat rapidly volatilizes it in visible fumes. The effect is assisted by the incense-bearer swinging the censer, attached to three long chains, in the air. The manner of swinging the censer varies slightly in the churches in Rome, in France, and in England, some holding it above the head. At LA MADELEINE the method is always to give the censer a full swing at the greatest length of the chains with the right hand, and to catch it up short with the left hand. Several samples of "incense prepared for altar service," as sent out by Mr. Martin, of Liverpool, appear to be nothing more than gum olibanum, of indifferent quality, and not at all like the composition as especially commanded by God, the form for which is given in full in Exodus. The pastils of the moderns are really but a very slight modification of the incense of the ancients. For many years they were called Osselets of Cyprus. In the old books on pharmacy a certain mixture of the then known gum-resins was called Suffitus, which being thrown upon hot ashes produced a vapor which was considered to be salutary in many diseases. It is under the same impression that pastils are now used, or at least to cover the _mal odeur_ of the sick-chamber. There is not much variety in the formula of the pastils that are now in use; we have first the INDIAN, OR YELLOW PASTILS. Santal-wood, in powder, 1 lb. Gum benzoin, 1-1/2 lb. " Tolu, 1/4 lb. Otto of santal, } " cassia, } each, 3 drachms. " cloves, } Nitrate of potass, 1-1/2 oz. Mucilage of tragacantha, q.s. to make the whole into a stiff paste. The benzoin, santal-wood, and Tolu, are to be powdered and mixed by sifting them, adding the ottos. The nitre being dissolved in the mucilage, is then added. After well beating in a mortar, the pastils are formed in shape with a pastil mould, and gradually dried. The Chinese josticks are of a similar composition, but contain no Tolu. Josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the Buddahs in the Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value of santal-wood. DR. PARIS'S PASTILS. Benzoin, } Cascarilla, } of each, 1/4 lb. Myrrh, 1-1/4 oz. Charcoal, 1-1/2 lb. Otto of nutmegs, } of each, " cloves, } 3/4 oz. Nitre, 2 oz. Mix as in the preceding. PERFUMER'S PASTILS. Well-burned charcoal, 1 lb. Benzoin, 3/4 lb. Tolu, } Vanilla pods, } of each, 1/4 lb. Cloves, } Otto of santal, } " neroli, } of each, 2 dr. Nitre, 1-1/2 oz. Mucilage tragacantha, _q.s._ PIESSE'S PASTILS. Willow charcoal, 1/2 lb. Benzoic acid, 6 oz. Otto of thyme, } " caraway, } " rose, } of each, 1/2 dr. " lavender,} " cloves, } " santal, } Prior to mixing, dissolve 3/4 oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or ordinary rose water; with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal, and then allow it to dry in a warm place. When the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed ottos, and stir in the flowers of benzoin. When well mixed by sifting (the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and mortar), it is finally beaten up in a mortar, with enough mucilage to bind the whole together, and the less that is used the better. A great variety of formulæ have been published for the manufacture of pastils; nine-tenths of them contain some woods or bark, or aromatic seeds. Now, when such substances are burned, the chemist knows that if the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes combustion--the slow combustion--materials are produced which have far from a pleasant odor; in fact, the smell of burning wood predominates over the volatilized aromatic ingredients; it is for this reason alone that charcoal is used in lieu of other substances. The use of charcoal in a pastil is merely for burning, producing, during its combustion, the heat required to quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which it is surrounded. The product of the combustion of charcoal is inodorous, and therefore does not in any way interfere with the fragrance of the pastil. Such is, however, not the case with any ingredients that may be used that are not in themselves perfectly volatile by the aid of a small increment of heat. If combustion takes place, which is always the case with all the aromatic woods that are introduced into pastils, we have, besides the volatilized otto which the wood contains, all the compounds naturally produced by the slow burning of ligneous matter, spoiling the true odor of the other ingredients volatilized. There are, it is true, certain kinds of fumigation adopted occasionally where these products are the materials sought. By such fumigation, as when brown paper is allowed to smoulder (undergo slow combustion) in a room for the purpose of covering bad smells. By the quick combustion of tobacco, that is, combustion with flame, there is no odor developed, but by its slow combustion, according to the method adopted by those who indulge in "the weed," the familiar aroma, "the cloud," is generated, and did not exist ready formed in the tobacco. Now a well-made pastil should not develope any odor of its own, but simply volatilize that fragrant matter, whatever it be, used in its manufacture. We think that the fourth formula given above carries out that object. It does not follow that the formulæ that are here given produce at all times the odor that is most approved; it is evident that in pastils, as with other perfumes, a great deal depends upon taste. Many persons very much object to the aroma of benzoin, while they greatly admire the fumes of cascarilla. THE PERFUME LAMP. Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property of spongy platinum remaining incandescent in the vapor of alcohol, the late Mr. I. Deck, of Cambridge, made a very ingenious application of it for the purpose of perfuming apartments. An ordinary spirit lamp is filled with Eau de Cologne, and "trimmed" with a wick in the usual manner. Over the centre of the wick, and standing about the eighth of an inch above it, a small ball of spongy platinum is placed, maintained in its position by being fixed to a thin glass rod, which is inserted into the wick. [Illustration: Perfume Lamp.] Thus arranged, the lamp is to be lighted and allowed to burn until the platinum becomes red hot; the flame may then be blown out, nevertheless the platinum remains incandescent for an indefinite period. The proximity of a red-hot ball to a material of the physical quality of Eau de Cologne, diffused over a surface of cotton wick, as a matter of course causes its rapid evaporation, and as a consequence the diffusion of odor. Instead of the lamp being charged with Eau de Cologne, we may use Eau de Portugal, vervaine, or any other spirituous essence. Several perfumers make a particular mixture for this purpose, which is called EAU A BRULER. Eau de Cologne, 1 pint. Tincture of benzoin, 2 oz. " vanilla, 1 oz. Otto of thyme, } " mint, } of each, 1/2 drachm. " nutmeg, } Another form, called EAU POUR BRULER. Rectified spirit, 1 pint. Benzoic acid, 1/2 oz. Otto of thyme, } of each, 1 drachm. " caraway, } " bergamot, 2 oz. Persons who are in the habit of using the perfume lamps will, however frequently observe that, whatever difference there may be in the composition of the fluid introduced into the lamp, there is a degree of similarity in the odor of the result when the platinum is in action. This arises from the fact, that so long as there is the vapor of alcohol, mixed with oxygen-air, passing over red-hot platinum, certain definite products always result, namely, acetic acid, aldehyde, and acetal, which are formed more or less and impart a peculiar and rather agreeable fragrance to the vapor, but which overpowers any other odor that is present. FUMIGATING PAPER. There are two modes of preparing this article:--