INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.

Perfumes in use from the Earliest Periods--Origin lost in the Depth of its Antiquity--Possibly derived from Religious Observances--Incense or Frankincense burned in Honor of the Divinities--Early Christians put to Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols--Use of perfumes by the Greeks and Romans--Pliny and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious People scent themselves Three Times a Day--Use of Incense in the Romish Church--Scriptural Authority for the use of Perfume--Composition of the Holy Perfume--The Prophet's Simile--St. Ephræm's Will--Fragrant Tapers--Constantine provides fragrant Oil to burn at the Altars--Frangipanni--Trade in the East in Perfume Drugs--The Art of Perfumery of little Distinction in England--Solly's admirable Remarks on Trade Secrets--British Horticulturists neglect to collect the Fragrance of the Flowers they cultivate--The South of France the principal Seat of the Art--England noted for Lavender--Some Plants yield more than one Perfume--Odor of Plants owing to a peculiar Principle known as Essential Oil or Otto SECTION II. Consumption of Perfumery--Methods of obtaining the Odors:--Expression, Distillation, Maceration, Absorption SECTION III. Steam-Still--Macerating Pan--Ottos exhibited at the Crystal Palace of 1851--SIMPLE EXTRACTS:--Allspice, Almond, Artificial Otto of Almonds, Anise, Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium, Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum, Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory of Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields two Odors), Rosemary, Sage, Santal, Sassafras, Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Vanilla, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria, Wallflower, Winter-green--Duty on Essential Oils--Quantity imported--Statistics, &c. SECTION IV. ANIMAL PERFUMES. Ambergris--Civet--Musk SECTION V. SMELLING SALTS:--Ammonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible Salts, Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--Aromatic Vinegar, Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre à la Rose, Four Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne SECTION VI. BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous Principle of Plants COMPOUND ODORS:--The Alhambra Perfume--The Bosphorus Bouquet--Bouquet d'Amour--Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d'Andorre--Buckingham Palace Bouquet--Délices--The Court Nosegay--Eau de Chypre--The Empress Eugenie's Nosegay--Esterhazy--Ess Bouquet--Eau de Cologne. (French and English Spirit.) Flowers of Erin--Royal Hunt Bouquet--Extract of Flowers--The Guards' Bouquet--Italian Nosegay--English Jockey Club--French Jockey Club. (Difference of the Odor of English and French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape and Corn Spirit.) A Japanese Perfume--The Kew Garden Nosegay--Millefleurs--Millefleurs et Lavender--Delcroix's Lavender--Marechale--Mousselaine--Bouquet de Montpellier--Caprice de la Mode--May Flowers--Neptune, or Naval Nosegay--Bouquet of all Nations--Isle of Wight Bouquet--Bouquet du Roi--Bouquet de la Reine Victoria--Rondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) Bouquet Royal--Suave--Spring Flowers--Tulip Nosegay--The Wood Violet--Windsor Castle Bouquet--Yacht Club Nosegay SECTION VII. The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums--Abstaining from the Use of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation--The Vase at Alnwick Castle--Sachet Powders--Sachet au Chypre--Sachet à la Frangipanne--Heliotrope Sachet--Lavender Sachet--Sachet à la Maréchale--Mousselaine--Millefleur--Portugal Sachet--Patchouly Sachet--Pot Pourri--Olla Podrida--Rose Sachet--Santal-wood Sachet--Sachet (without a name)--Vervain Sachet--Vitivert--Violet Sachet--Perfumed Leather--Russia Leather--Peau d'Espagne--Perfumed Letter Paper--Perfumed Book-markers--Cassolettes, and Printaniers Pastils--The Censer--Vase in the British Museum--Method of using the Censer--Incense for Altar Service--Yellow Pastils--Dr. Paris's Pastils--Perfumer's Pastils--Piesse's Pastils--Fumigation--The Perfume Lamp--Incandescent Platinum--Eau à Bruler--Eau pour Bruler--Fumigating Paper--Perfuming Spills--Odoriferous Lighters SECTION VIII. PERFUMED SOAP. Perfumed Soap--Ancient Origin of Soap--Early Records of the Soap Trade in England--Perfumers not Soap Makers--Remelting--Primary Soaps--Curd Soap--Oil Soap--Castile Soap--Marine Soap--Yellow Soap--Palm Soap--Excise Duty on Soap--Fig Soft Soap--Naples Soft Soap--The remelting Process--Soap cutting--Soap stamping--Scented Soaps Almond Soap--Camphor Soap--Honey Soap--White Windsor Soap--Brown Windsor Soap--Sand Soap--Fuller's Earth Soap--Scenting Soaps Hot--Scenting Soaps Cold--Colored Soaps:--Red, Green, Blue, Brown Soaps--Otto of Rose Soap--Tonquin Musk Soap--Orange-Flower Soap--Santal-wood Soap--Spermaceti Soap--Citron Soap--Frangipanne Soap--Patchouly Soap--Soft or Potash Soaps--Saponaceous Cream of Almonds--Soap Powders--Rypophagon Soap--Ambrosial Cream--Transparent soft Soap--Transparent hard Soap--Medicated Soaps--Juniper Tar Soap--Iodine Soap--Sulphur Soap--Bromine Soap--Creosote Soap--Mercurial Soap--Croton Oil Soap--Their Use in Cutaneous Diseases SECTION IX. EMULSINES. Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with Water--Prone to Change--Amandine--Olivine--Honey and Almond Paste--Pure Almond Paste--Almond Meal--Pistachio Nut Meal--Jasmine Emulsion--Violet Emulsion SECTION X. MILKS OR EMULSIONS. Liebig's notice of Almond Milk--Milk of Roses--Milk of Almonds--Milk of Elder--Milk of Dandelion--Milk of Cucumber--Essence of Cucumber--Milk of Pistachio Nuts--Lait Virginal--Extract of Elder Flowers SECTION XI. COLD CREAM. Manipulation--Cold Cream of Almonds--Violet Cold Cream--Imitation Violet Cold Cream--Cold Cream of various Flowers--Camphor Cold Cream--Cucumber Cold Cream--Piver's Pomade of Cucumber--Pomade Divine--Almond Balls--Camphor Balls--Camphor Paste--Glycerine Balsam--Rose Lip Salve--White Lip Salve--Common Lip Salve SECTION XII. POMADES AND OILS. Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with Apples--Scentless Grease--Enfleurage and Maceration process--Acacia, or Cassie Pomade--Benzoin Pomade and Oil--Vanilla Oil and Pomade--Pomade called Bear's Grease--Circassian Cream--Balsam of Flowers--Crystallized Oils--Castor Oil Pomatum--Balsam of Neroli--Marrow Cream--Marrow Pomatum--Violet Pomatum--Pomade Double, Millefleurs--Pomade à la Heliotrope--Huile Antique--Philocome--Pomade Hongroise--Hard or Stick Pomatums--Black and Brown Cosmetique SECTION XIII. HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. Painting the Face universal among the Women of Egypt--Kohhl, the Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and Sockets of the Eye--Turkish Hair Dye--Rastikopetra Dye--Litharge Dye--Silver Dye--Hair Dyes, with Mordant--Inodorous Dye--Brown and Black Hair Dye--Liquid Lead Dye--Depilatory, Rusma SECTION XIV. ABSORBENT POWDERS. Violet Powder--Rose Face Powder--Perle Powder--Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use--Calcined Talc--Rouge and Red Paints--Bloom of Roses--Carmine Toilet Rouge--Carthamus Flowers--Pink Saucers--Crépon Rouge SECTION XV. TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES. Mialhi's Tooth Powder--Camphorated Chalk--Quinine Tooth Powder--Prepared Charcoal--Peruvian Bark Powder--Homoeopathic Chalk--Cuttle-Fish Powder--Borax and Myrrh--Farina Piesse's Dentifrice--Rose Tooth Powder--Opiate Paste--Violet Mouth Wash--Eau Botot--Botanic Styptic--Tincture of Myrrh and Borax--Myrrh with Eau de Cologne--Camphorated Eau de Cologne SECTION XVI. HAIR WASHES. Rosemary Hair Wash--Athenian Water--Vegetable or Botanic Hair Wash--Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary--Saponaceous Wash--Egg Julep--Bandolines--Rose and Almond Bandoline Contents of Appendix. Manufacture of Glycerine Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in Almond and Olive Oil Coloring matter of Volatile Oils Artificial Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil The Orange Flower Waters of Commerce Concentrated Elder Water ARNALL on Spirits of Wine Purification of Spirits by Filtration COBB on Otto of Lemons BASTICK on Benzoic Acid On the Coloring matters of Flowers Bleaching Bees' Wax Chemical Examination of Naples Soap Manufacture of Soap How to Ascertain the Commercial Value of Soap On the Natural Fats Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness BASTICK on Fusel Oil BASTICK'S Pine Apple Flavor WAGNER'S Essence of Quince Preparation of Rum-ether Artificial Fruit essences Volatile Oil of Gaultheria Application of Chemistry to Perfumery Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants French and English Weights and Measures compared Illustrations. Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.) Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.) Pipette, to draw off small Portions of Otto from Water Tap Funnel for separating Ottos from Waters, and Spirits from Oil The Almond Styrax Benzoin Cassie Buds The Clove The Jasmine The Orange The Patchouly Plant Santal-Wood Tonquin Vanilla Vitivert Civet Cat Musk Pod Musk Deer The Censer Perfume Lamp Slab Soap Gauge Barring Gauge Squaring Gauge Soap Scoops Soap Press Moulds Soap Plane Oil Runner THE ART OF PERFUMERY.