CHAPTER XVI

GREECE Grecian Dishes--Athens. No one lives better than a well-to-do Greek outside his own country, and when he is in Greece his cook manages to do a great deal with comparatively slight material. A Greek cook can make a skewered pigeon quite palatable, and the number of ways he has of cooking quails, from the simple method of roasting them cased in bay leaves to all kinds of mysterious bakings after they have been soused in oil, are innumerable. There are _pillaus_ without number in the Greek cuisine, chiefly of lamb, and it is safe to take for granted that anything _à la Grec_ is likely to be something savoury, with a good deal of oil, a suspicion of onion, a flavour of parsley, and a good deal of rice with it. These, however, are some of the most distinctive dishes:--_Coucouretzi_, the entrails and liver of lamb, roasted on a spit; _Bligouri_, wheat coarsely ground, cooked in broth, and eaten with grated cheese; _Argokalamara_, a paste of flour and yolk of egg fried in butter with honey poured over it. All Greek cooking, as all Turkish is, should be done very slowly over a charcoal fire. A too great use of oil is the besetting sin of the indifferent Greek cook. The egg-plant is treated in half-a-dozen ways by the Greeks, stuffing them with some simple forced meat being the most common. The food of the peasant is grain, rice, goat when he can get it, a skinny fowl as a great delicacy, milk, and strong cheese. A bunch of grapes and a piece of sour bread forms a feast for him. The Grecian wines are not unpalatable but very light. They are mostly exported to Vienna, being fortified previous to their departure to enable them to stand the voyage, and again manipulated on their arrival, so that their original characteristics are considerably obliterated. Athens My trusted _collaborateur_ A.B. went on a yachting tour in Grecian waters last spring, having a special intention of studying Greek restaurants. He wrote to me as to Athens, and his report was short and to the point: "Outside the hotels there is but one café, Solon's, principally used as a political rendezvous. Its attractions are of the most meagre description." A most grave _littérateur_ to whom, as he had been lately travelling in Greece, and as I had not been there for ten years, I applied for supplementary information, applied the adjective "beastly" to all Greek restaurants, and added that the one great crying need of Greece and Athens is an American bar for the sale of cooling drinks in the Parthenon. N.N.-D. INDEX Aachen, 135 Abbaye de Thélème Restaurant, 33 _Acqua Litiosa di S. Marco_, 171 _Agnolotti_, 158 Aix-la-Chapelle, 135 Aix-les-Bains, 74 Albergo Giappone, Leghorn, 170 Algeciras, 192 Allemania, Frankfurt, 128 Alster Café, Hamburg, 143 Ambassadeurs Restaurant, 27 Ambleteuse, 37 Amsterdam, 109 Anglais, Café, 5, 6, 8 _Anguille di Comacchio_, 166 Antwerp, 83 _Ardei Ungelute_, 207 _Argokalamara_, 230 Arles, 73 _Arselle alla Marinara_, 171 Artichokes, 48, 173 Asparagus, 3 Athens, 231 Aubanel, M., 29 _Aubergines_, 227 _Bacalas_, 179 _Bacchio e Capretto alla Cacciatora_, 174 Bachelier, 65 _Baclava_, 207 Bad Gastein, 204 Baden, 198 Baden-Baden, 134 _Barbue Paillard_, 13 _Durand_, 17 _à la Russe_, 18 Barcelona, 180 _Baron d'agneau Henri IV._, 12 Bars, 31 Basle, 153 Bauernschänke, Berlin, 150 Bauer's Café, Berlin, 149 Bayonne Restaurant, 50, 51 Beaufils, 38 Beaulieu, 60 Beauvillier's Café, 4 _Bécasse Flambée_, 18 _au Fumet_, 12 Beer, 103, 117, 120, 121, 128, 129, 138, 196 cellars, 114 Belgium, 79 Belvedere Restaurant, Dresden, 118 Béquet, 42 Berk, 37 Berlin, 144 Bern, 154 Bertrand's Restaurant, 84 Biarritz, 52 Bignon's Café, 4 Birds, 3, 82, 98 _Biscuit Foyot_, 25 Blanche Restaurant, 33 _Bligouri_, 230 Bobadilla, 190 _Boeuf, Côte de, braisé Empire_, 12 Boeuf à la mode Restaurant, 21 Bologna, 166 Borchard's Restaurant, Berlin, 146 Bordeaux, 50 Café de, 50, 51 Borel, 4 _Bouillabaisse_, 41, 54, 55, 73, 76 Bouillon Riche Restaurant, 27 _Bouillons_, 34 Boulogne, 36 Bouzoum, Madame, 71 _Brandade_, 55 Bratwurstglöcklein, 123 Brest, 49 Breton menu, 48 Brill, 2 Bristol Restaurant, Berlin, 145 Broccoli, 174 Broche à Rotir, 42 Bruges, 88 Brun, Hôtel (Bologna), 166 Brussels, restaurants at, 93, 103 Bucarest, 208 Budapesth, 204 Buerose Restaurant, Frankfurt, 128 Burdel, M., 8 Burgos, 187 Burgundy, 80, 88, 94, 100, 109 _Busecca_, 160 Cabois, 38 Cabourg, 43 Cadiz and Jerez, 191 Caen, 44 Caesario, 18 Café de Paris, 30 Américain, 30 de la Cascade, 29 de la Paix, 30 _Caille à la Souvaroff_, 18 Calais, 35 _Caldo_, 179 _Canapé Clarence Mackay_, 23 _Canard Pompéienne_, 26 _à la Presse_, 3, 17 Cancale, 47 _Caneton de Rouen au Sang_, 18 _Caneton Rouennaise_, 42 Cannes, 56 _Capeletti_, 158 _Carbonades Flamandes_, 81 _Cardons_, 160 Carlsbad, 199 _Carpe à la Gelée_, 5 Casimir, 4 Casino, Hôtel du, Cherbourg, 46 Municipal, Biarritz, 52 _Castagnacci alla Pisana_, 169 Caviar, 143, 207, 208, 212 Cellars, 7, 10, 25 _Cèpes à la Bordelaise_, 51 Chabas, M. Paul, 73 Champagne, 99, 100, 116, 148 Champeaux Restaurant, 22 Chapon Fin, 50, 51 _Charcutiers_, 44 "Charles," 11 Château de Madrid, 28 Laroque, 89 Chateaubriand, 22 Cherbourg, 46 _Cheslas_, 208 Cheval Blanc Restaurant, 43 Chevillard's Restaurant, 28 _Choesels à la Bruxelloise_, 81 _Choux Farcies_, 43 Cider, 43, 45 _Cinghiale in agro dolce_, 174 _Ciulama_, 207 Claret, 50 Clermont-Ferrand, 78 Club restaurant, 31 _Codeghino_, 167 Coffee, 93, 136 Cologne, 129 Colon Restaurant, Barcelona, 181 _Confit d'Oie_, 69 _Consommé Fortunato_, 15 _Baigneuse_, 17 Constantinople, 226 Cost of dinners, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 48, 65, 80, 84, 88, 89, 229 _Côte de Boeuf à la Russe_, 107 _Cotelette alla Marsigliese_, 162 _à la Milanese_, 162 _Cotelettes d'Izard mariné_, 69 _Coucouretzi_, 230 _Crème de Langoustines_, 65 _Germiny_, 13 _Crêpes des Gourmets_, 15 _Suzette_, 18 Criterium Restaurant, Antwerp, 84 _Croûtes au Champignons_, 39 D'Hortesio's Café, 4 Denmark, 215 _Désir, Le, de Roi_, 11 Dieppe, 37 Dinard, 47 Dîner Français Restaurant, 34 Dresden, 114, 121 Dressel Restaurant, Berlin, 147 Drouet, Henri, 14 Ducordet, M., 38 Dugleré, 2, 8 Durand's Restaurant, 14, 16, 30 Düsseldorf, 128 Echénard, M., 54 _Ecrevisses Bordelaises_, 39, 76 _Régina_, 96 Eggs, 48 Elysée Palace Hotel, 18 Ems, 135 Ermitage Restaurant, 219 Estoril, 195 Etaples, 37 _Faina_, 163 _Faisan à la Financière_, 3 _Fegatini di pollo_, 169 _Fegato alla Veneziana_, 166 Ferme St-Siméon, 43 Fiësoli, 169 Figs, 163, 169 _Filet de Lièvre Arnold White_, 23 _Paillard_, 12 _Selle Czarine_, 12 _Filet de Sole_, 12 _Cardinal_, 23 _Gibbs_, 23 _Martin_, 184 _Mornay_, 8 _Noël_, 21 _La Peyrouse_, 25 Fishes, 2, 21, 53, 64 Florence, 168 _Fonduta_, 160 Fowls, 2 Foyot's Restaurant, 11, 22, 25 Français Restaurant, Nice, 58 Restaurant, 42 France, Hôtel de, Cherbourg, 47 Frankfurt-am-Main, 126 Frankfurter Hof, 126 Frascati's Restaurant, 39 "Frederic," 11, 23 _Fritto Misto_, 158, 171 _di Calamaretti_, 174 _Picatto_, 162 _Friture du Pays_, 53 Gaillon Restaurant, 11, 14 Game, 3, 116, 219 Garbure soup, 69 Garnier, Restaurant, 36 _Gazpaco_, 179 Geneva, 154, 155 Genoa, 163 German restaurant, 31 cooking, 110 _Germiny, Crème_, 13 Ghent, 80 _Ghiveci_, 208 _Gianduiotti_, 160 Gieshübl, 202 _Gigot de sept heures_, 9 _Glace Gismonda_, 18 _Gnocchi di Patele_, 174 Gothenburg, 213 _Goulache_, 204 Graff, M. Paul, 38 Grand Hôtel de l'Europe, Spa, 87 Grand Port, 76 Revard, 76 Grand Seize, 5, 7, 8 Greece, 230 Grenada, 191 _Grissini_, 160 _Grives à la Namuroise_, 82 Grouse, 83 Gudgeon, 2 Guépet, 4 Guichard, 71, 72 Guillemin, 27 Hague, 105 Hamburg, 138 Hanover, 124 Hardi, Café, 4 _Hareng Lucas_, 22 Hartmann's Restaurant, 197 Hasselbacken Restaurant, 210 Havre, 38 Helder Restaurant, 66, 92 Henrion's Grand Hotel, Aachen, 135 Henri's Restaurant, Gaillon, 14 Heyste, 89 _Hochepot Gantois_, 81 Hofbrauhaus, Munich, 121 Holland, 105 _Homard Cardinal_, 12, 197 _à l'Américaine_, 41, 45, 107 _Foyot_, 25 _chaud a beurre truffé_, 148 Homburg, 131 Honfleur, 43 _Huitres Titania_, 197 Irish stew, 96 Isnard's Restaurant, 56 Italian cookery, 157 restaurants, 31 "Joseph," 11, 23 Julia, Mlle., 49 Julien's Café, 30 Justin's Restaurant, Barcelona, 180 Kaiserkeller, Berlin, 150 _Kastanato_, 227 _Kebap_, 227 _Keinfté_, 227 Kempinsky's Restaurant, Berlin, 147 Kiel, 137 Kneist, Dresden, 120 Lafosse's Restaurant, 37 Laiterie, Brussels, 152 Lampreys, 2, 51 La Peyrouse Restaurant, 22, 25 La Rue's Restaurant, 16, 30 Laurent's Restaurant, 26 Ledoyen's Restaurant, 27 L'Etoile, Brussels, 100 Lefebvre, 38 Leghorn, 170 Leipzig, 125 Le Navigateur, 25 Lennertz's Restaurant, Aachen, 136 Liqueurs, 22 Lisbon, 180, 192 Lobsters, 45, 48 London House, Nice, 58 Lucas's Restaurant, 21, 32 Lucerne, 153 _Maccheroni_, 158 Madrid, 187 Madrid, Restaurant de, 44 Maire's Restaurant, 20, 26, 30 Maison Dorée, Barcelona, 184 Maison Grossetête, 14 d'Or Café, 4, 6, 8 Malmö, 213 _Mamaliguzza_, 208 Marguery's Restaurant, 21 Marienbad, 203 Marivaux Café, 11 Marseilles, 54 Martigues, 73 Maxim's Restaurant, 30 Médoc, 96, 97 _Meizanne_, 163 Mentone, 68 Menus, 7, 9, 13, 15, 17, 19, 28, 48, 53, 58, 59, 63, 64, 66, 67, 80, 87, 97, 107, 108, 132, 140, 141, 144, 146, 148, 156, 164, 181, 182, 183, 185, 188, 192, 193, 206, 208, 211, 214, 220, 228 Milan, 161 _Militei_, 207 Milk, 28, 37 _Minestrone_, 53, 158, 161, 163 Monte Carlo, 61 _Mortadella_, 167 _Moscardini_, 163 Moscow, 218 Mottez's Restaurant, 81 _Moules à la marinière_, 99 Mourier, M., 30 _Moussaka_, 227 _Mozzarelle in carozza_, 176 Munich, 121 Mushrooms, 20 Mutton, 47 Naples, 174 Nassauer Hof, Wiesbaden, 133 _Nässelkalsoppa_, 211 National Hotel, Lucerne, 153 Neues Palais de Saxe, Dresden, 119 Nice, 58 Nîmes, 74 Noailles Hotel, Marseilles, 54 Noel Peter's Restaurant, 21 _Noisettes de Veau Port Mahon_, 15 Normandie, Hôtel de, 40 Norway, 214 Notta, 11 Nuremberg, 122 hotels, 124 Odessa, 224 _Oeufs Claude Lowther_, 23 _Omelette Sibérienne_, 107 _Soufflés_, 136 _Oranges à l'Infante_, 197 _Ortolans en surprise_, 13 _Ossobuco_, 162 Ostend, 89 Oysters, 32, 45, 47, 49, 52, 60, 136, 147 cellars, 142 Paillard's Restaurant, 11, 26, 30 Palast Hotel, Furstenhof, 127 Berlin, 147 Palermo, 177 Palmen Garten, Frankfurt, 127 _Panettone_, 162 _Paprika_, 204 _Paprikahuhn_, 204 Paris and cookery, 1 Café de, 4 Plage, 37 Restaurant de, 42 Park Hotel, Düsseldorf, 128 Partridges, 3, 83, 201 _Paste asciutte_, 158 _Pasticcio di Maccheroni_, 174 _Pasqualina_, 163 _Pattona alla Pisana_, 169 Pau, 71 Pavillion d'Armenonville, 28 Bleu, 34 Henri IV., 34 _Pêches Flambées_, 18 Pepin Restaurant, 44 _Pepperoni_, 160 _Perdreau et Caille Paillard_, 13 _Perdrix au choux_, 3, 107 _Perpadelle_, 158 _col Ragout_, 167 Perrier's Restaurant, 41 Peyrafitte, Joseph, 72 Pforte's Restaurant, Hamburg, 138 Phillipe's Café, 4, 34 Pisa, 169 _Pizzaiola, Steak alla_, 176 _Pizza alla_, 176 _Plattär_, 214 _Poire Wannamaker_, 23 _Alaska_, 107 _Pollo en padella_, 174 _Polpette à la Milanese_, 162 _Polpi alla Luciana_, 176 _Pomme Otero_, 12 _Georgette_, 12 _Macaire_, 12 Port Bou, 184 _Potage Henri IV._, 17 _Foyot_, 25 _Germiny_, 8 _Reine_, 18 Potatoes, 48 Poulard Aîné, Mont St-Michel, 48 _Poularde Maison d'Or_, 5 _Archiduc_, 12 _à la Derby_, 12 _à la Parisienne_, 107 _Réservé en Cocotte Raviolis_, 55 _à la Santos Dumont_, 65 _Wladimir_, 12, 197 _Poule au pot Henri IV._, 107 _Poulet Sauté Grand Duc_, 17 _Maire_, 21 _Sauté petits diables_, 17 Pourville, 38 Prague, 204 Prawns, 17, 43, 48 _Presciutto con fichi_, 169 Prices charged at restaurants, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 43, 45, 50, 52, 57, 58, 61, 63, 66, 75, 88, 96, 97, 105, 115, 119, 128, 134, 136, 144, 147, 148, 155, 164, 166, 181, 183, 201, 209, 210, 212, 219, 221, 223 Prinz Wilhelm Café, Berlin, 149 Provence, 73 Prunier's restaurant, 32 _Pucca baruca_, 166 _Puchero_, 179 Puloski's Restaurant, 32 Puys, 38 Pyrenees, the, 69 Quadri, Restaurant, Venice, 164 Rat Mort Restaurant, 33 Rathskeller, 113 Hamburg, 143 Wiesbaden, 134 _Ravioli_, 158 Regence, restaurant, Nice, 59 Reichshof, Berlin, 149 Remoulins, 74 Reserve, café, Marseilles, 54 Cannes, 56 Restaurant de la (Beaulieu), 60 Restaurant, good cheap, 33 Restaurant Ré, 66 des Fleurs, 31 Summer, 26 Riche, Café, 4 _Risotto_, 158, 171 _Certosino_, 162 _Milanese_, 162 Ritz, Hôtel, 14, 18 Ritz, M., 153 _Riz de Veau Foyot_, 25 Rocher de Cancale, restaurant, 4, 84 Roches Noire, 43 _Rognone Trifolato_, 160 Rome, 172 _Rôti Kouzoum_, 227 Rotterdam, 109 Rouen, 42 _Rouennais Paillard_, 12 _à la Presse_, 12 Roumania, 207 Rudesheimer restaurant, 149 Rumpelmayer, 71, 76 Russian restaurant, 31 dishes, 217 Sacher's Restaurant, Vienna, 197 _Salade Gauloise_, 18 _Georgette_, 17 _Idéale_, 12 _de Princesses Liégeoises_, 81 _Russe_, 39 Salamanca, 5 San Sebastian, 184 Santander, 187 Sardines, 2, 48 _Sarmalute_, 207 Sauerkraut, 111 Scheveningen, 109 _Schiacciata_, 169 Schweitzerhof, Lucerne, 153 _Scordolea_, 207 _Selianka_, 218 Seville, 189 Shrimps, 37, 43 _Smörgasbord_, 212, 214 Snails, 32 _Sole au vin Rouge_, 5 _Marguery_, 21 _Normande_, 36, 42, 107 _Paillard_, 12 _Waleska_, 65 _Sole, filet de, à la Russe_, 12 _Egyptiennes_, 65 _Kotchoubey_, 12 Soles, 2 _Sopa de Camarao_, 194 Sou Fassu, 73 _Soufflé Palmyre_, 107 _Soufflé Pôle Nord_, 17 _King Edward VII._, 197 Spa, 85 _Spagetti_, 158, 177 _Spagetti alle Vongole_, 176 _Spaghetti a sugo di carne_, 171 Spanish restaurants, 31 cookery, 178 Spezzia, 167 _Spigola_, 176 _Srazis_, 218 St-Cloud, 34 St-Germain, 34 St-Malo, 47 St-Petersburg, 222 St-Remy, 74 Stadt Gotha Restaurant, Dresden, 119 Stephan Keller, 197 _Stocafisso alla Genovese_, 163 Stockholm, 210 Storvik, 213 _Stracotto_, 169 _Suprême de Volaille Grand Duc_, 12 Switzerland, 151 Sylvain's Restaurant, 22, 30 Tarascon, 73 _Tavernes_, 30, 32, 34 _Terrine de Fois Gras à la gelée au Porto_, 13 _Tettachine_, 158 Thurion's Restaurant, 33 Thürnagel Restaurant, Düsseldorf, 128 Tiedemann and Grahl's Restaurant, 119 _Timbale de queues d'Ecrevisses, Mantua_, 12 Tirlemont, 79 Tomatoes, 176 Topper's Café, Berlin, 149 Tortoni's Restaurant, 38 brasserie, 39 Tour d'Argent, 11, 22 _Tournedos à la Rossini_, 18 Tréteau de Tabarin Restaurant, 32 _Triglie alla Livornese_, 171 _Trinetti_, 158 _Tripes à la mode de Caen_, 44 Trois Frères Provençeaux Café, 4 Trout, 2, 28, 77, 116, 154, 197, 201 Trouville Deauville, 43 Truffles, 160 Turin, 159 Turkey, 220 Turkeys, Norfolk, 3 Tuscan dinner, 170 _Uova di Bufola_, 174 Van der Pyl's Restaurant, 105 Veal, 2 _Veau à la Casserole_, 4 Vegetable dishes, 3 Venice, 164 Veron, Café, 4 Very, Café, 4 Vichy, 77 Vienna, 196 wines, 196 Viennese restaurants, 31 Vieux Calvados, 45 Villa Julia, La, at Pont Avin, 48 Villefranche, 61 _Vitello Uccelletto_, 163 Voisin's Café, 6, 9 Walnuts, 177 Warsaw, 225 _Waterzoei de Poulet_, 81 Wiesbaden, 133 Wine cellars, 198 Wines, 21, 22, 25, 27, 28, 29, 32, 34, 38, 41, 45, 50, 61, 70, 87, 88, 116, 150, 155, 159, 160, 162, 164, 174, 177, 180, 193, 196, 198, 201, 205 Amarena di Siracusa, 177 Bordeaux, 141 Chianti, 169 Diamante, 181 Dragasani, 208 Marsala, 177 Moscato di Siracusa, 177 Moselle, 128 Rhine, 129, 149 Rioja, 181 Valdepenàs, 180 Wimille, 37 Woodcocks, 82, 102 feast, 82 _Yachni_, 227 _Yalandji Dolmas_, 227 _Yaourt_, 227 Zabajone, 158, 165 Zaragoza, 187 _Zucchini Ripieni_, 160 Zum Weissen Rössl, Berlin, 150 _Zuppa di Vongole_, 176 _Inglese_, 174 _Datteri_, 167 _Peoci_, 165 _Pesce_, 173 THE END _Printed by_ R. & R. Clark, Limited. _Edinburgh._ Transcriber's Notes Page 20, Is is corrected to It is Page 150, Räuberhotle corrected to Räuberhohle Page 150, Zunweissen corrected to Zum Weissen (also in Index) Page 158, paste corrected to pasta, "another pasta dish" In the Index, added reference to Page 13 in the entry for Perdreau et Caille Paillard. Some spellings and accents are used inconsistently throughout the text. They have been left as in the original since they are potentially intentional. End of Project Gutenberg's The Gourmet's Guide to Europe, by Algernon Bastard *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GOURMET'S GUIDE TO EUROPE *** Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will be renamed. Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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