Chapter 1

The Project Gutenberg eBook of History of Lace This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook. Title: History of Lace Author: Mrs. Bury Palliser Editor: Alice Dryden Margaret Jourdain Release date: April 21, 2018 [eBook #57009] Language: English Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/57009 Credits: Produced by Keith Edkins, Constanze Hofmann, David Edwards and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF LACE *** Produced by Keith Edkins, Constanze Hofmann, David Edwards and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) Transcriber's note: Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). Page numbers enclosed by curly braces (example: {25}) have been incorporated to facilitate the use of the Index. * * * * * HISTORY OF LACE [Illustration: ANNE, DAUGHTER OF SIR PETER VANLORE, KT., FIRST WIFE OF SIR CHARLES CÆSAR, KT., ABOUT 1614. The lace is probably Flemish, Sir Peter having come from Utrecht. From the picture the property of her descendant, Captain Cottrell-Dormer.] _Frontispiece._ HISTORY OF LACE BY MRS. BURY PALLISER ENTIRELY REVISED, RE-WRITTEN, AND ENLARGED UNDER THE EDITORSHIP OF M. JOURDAIN AND ALICE DRYDEN WITH 266 ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1902 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W. PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION Nearly thirty years have elapsed since the third edition of the HISTORY OF LACE was published. As it is still the classical work on the subject, and many developments in the Art have taken place since 1875, it seemed desirable that a new and revised edition should be brought out. The present Revisers have fully felt the responsibility of correcting anything the late Mrs. Palliser wrote; they have therefore altered as little of the text as possible, except where modern research has shown a statement to be faulty. The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter on Needlework, have been almost entirely rewritten. Much new matter has been added to Italy, England and Ireland, and the notices of Cretan and Sicilian lace, among others, are new. The original wood-cuts have been preserved with their designations as in the 1875 edition, which differ materially from the first two editions. Nearly a hundred new illustrations have been added, and several portraits to show different fashions of wearing lace. The Revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have assisted them with information or lace for illustration; especially to Mrs. Hulton, Count Marcello and Cavaliere Michelangelo Jesurum in Venice, Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, Mr. Arthur Blackborne, Salviati & Co., and the Director of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. M. JOURDAIN. ALICE DRYDEN. _London, September, 1901._ CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE I.--NEEDLEWORK 1 II.--CUT-WORK 14 III.--LACE 26 IV.--ITALY.--VENICE--MILAN ("Milano la Grande")--FLORENCE--THE ABRUZZI--ROMAGNA--NAPLES--GENOA ("Genova La Superba")-- CANTU--SICILY 45 V.--GREECE--CRETE--TURKEY--MALTA 82 VI.--SPAIN--PORTUGAL 90 VII.--FLANDERS--BRUSSELS (BRABANT)--MECHLIN--ANTWERP--FLANDERS (WEST)--FLANDERS (EAST)--HAINAULT 109 VIII.--FRANCE TO LOUIS XIV. 139 IX.--LOUIS XIV. 150 X.--LOUIS XIV.--_continued_ 161 XI.--LOUIS XV. 171 XII.--LOUIS XVI. TO THE EMPIRE 179 XIII.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF FRANCE--ALENÇON (Dép. Orne), NORMANDY 188 XIV.--ARGENTAN (Dép. Orne) 202 XV.--ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (Dép. Seine)--CHANTILLY (Dép. Oise) 209 XVI.--NORMANDY--SEINE INFÉRIEURE--CALVADOS--BRETAGNE 216 XVII.--VALENCIENNES (Dép. du Nord)--LILLE (Dép. du Nord)--ARRAS (Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)--BAILLEUL (Dép. du Nord) 230 XVIII.--AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY--LE PUY (Dép. Haute-Loire)--AURILLAC AND MURAT (Dép. Cantal) 242 XIX.--LIMOUSIN--LORRAINE--CHAMPAGNE--BURGUNDY--LYONNOIS-- ORLÉANOIS--BERRY--POITOU 250 XX.--HOLLAND, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY-- HOLLAND--SAXONY--GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH)--SWITZERLAND 258 XXI.--DENMARK--SWEDEN--RUSSIA 272 XXII.--ENGLAND TO QUEEN ELIZABETH 285 XXIII.--QUEEN ELIZABETH 299 XXIV.--JAMES I. TO THE RESTORATION.--JAMES I.--CHARLES I.-- THE COMMONWEALTH 315 XXV.--CHARLES II. TO THE HOUSE OF HANOVER.--CHARLES II.-- JAMES II.--WILLIAM III.--QUEEN ANNE 335 XXVI.--GEORGE I.--GEORGE II. 351 XXVII.--SMUGGLING 358 XXVIII.--GEORGE III. 363 XXIX.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF ENGLAND 371 XXX.--BEDFORDSHIRE--BUCKINGHAMSHIRE--NORTHAMPTONSHIRE--SUFFOLK 375 XXXI.--WILTSHIRE AND DORSETSHIRE 395 XXXII.--DEVONSHIRE--HONITON--TROLLY LACE--JAPAN 399 XXXIII.--SCOTLAND 418 XXXIV.--LACE MANUFACTURES OF SCOTLAND 428 XXXV.--IRELAND 435 XXXVI.--BOBBIN NET AND MACHINE-MADE LACE--BOBBIN NET--FRANCE-- BELGIUM--MACHINERY LACE 447 APPENDIX 459 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 503 INDEX 507 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE ANNE, DAUGHTER OF SIR PETER VANLORE, KT. _Frontispiece_ Gold Lace found in a barrow Fig. 1 4 ARGENTAN.--CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU; VENETIAN NEEDLEPOINT PLATE I 12 ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU; SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN RÉSEAU; BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU; FOND CHANT OF CHANTILLY AND POINT DE PARIS; DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILE; DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES PLATE II 14 Point Coupé Fig. 2 18 ALTAR OR TABLE-CLOTH OF FINE LINEN (PROBABLY ITALIAN) PLATE III 18 Laces Fig. 3 19 Elizabethan Sampler " 5 22 Impresa of Queen Margaret of Navarre " 4 23 Spider-work Figs. 6, 7 24 FAN MADE AT BURANO PLATE IV 24 ITALIAN PUNTO REALE " V 24 Grande Dantelle au Point devant l'Aiguille Fig. 8 28 Petite Dantelle Figs. 9-12 29 Passement au Fuseau Figs. 13, 14 30 Passement au Fuseau Fig. 15 31 Merletti a Piombini " 16 31 ITALIAN.--MODERN REPRODUCTION AT BURANO PLATE VI 32 HERALDIC (CARNIVAL LACE) " VII 32 Old Mechlin Fig. 17 35 ITALIAN, VENETIAN, FLAT NEEDLE-POINT LACE PLATE VIII 36 PORTION OF A BAND OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE " IX 36 Guipure Fig. 18 39 Tape Guipure " 19 40 ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE PLATE X 44 ITALIAN.--POINT PLAT DE VENISE " XI 46 ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU " XII 48 Mermaid Lace Fig. 20 50 Reticella " 21 50 Punto a Gropo " 22 52 Gros Point de Venise " 23 52 Punto a Maglia " 24 53 Punto Tirato " 25 54 Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées " 26 54 Venise Point " 27 55 Gros Point de Venise " 28 56 Point de Venise " 29 56 Point Plat de Venise " 30 56 Point de Venise à Réseau " 31 58 Burano Point " 32 60 ITALIAN.--MODERN POINT DE BURANO PLATE XIII 60 ITALIAN.--MODERN REPRODUCTION AT BURANO " XIV 62 ITALIAN.--MILANESE, BOBBIN-MADE " XV 64 Reticella from Milan Fig. 33 65 ITALIAN.--VENETIAN, NEEDLE-MADE PLATE XVI 66 ITALIAN.--MILANESE, BOBBIN-MADE " XVII 66 Unfinished Drawn-work Fig. 34 69 CUSHION MADE AT THE SCHOOL PLATE XVIII 70 ITALY.--GROUP OF WORKERS AT BRAZZA SCHOOL " XIX 70 Genoa Point, Bobbin-made Fig. 35 74 Lace Pattern found in the Church at Santa Margherita " 36 76 ITALIAN.--BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU PLATE XX 76 ITALIAN, GENOESE.--BORDER " XXI 76 Parchment Pattern used to cover a Book Fig. 37 77 Fringed Macramé " 38 80 ITALIAN.--OLD PEASANT LACES, BOBBIN-MADE PLATES XXII, XXIII 80 ITALIAN.--MODERN PEASANT LACE PLATE XXIV 80 Silk Gimp Lace Fig. 39 84 SICILIAN.--OLD DRAWN-WORK PLATE XXV 84 SOUTH ITALIAN " XXVI 84 Reticella, or Greek Lace Fig. 40 85 Loubeaux de Verdale " 41 88 ITALIAN, RAPALLO--MODERN PEASANT LACE PLATE XXVII 88 MALTESE.--MODERN BOBBIN-MADE " XXVIII 88 Bobbin Lace (Ceylon) Fig. 42 89 The Work Room (16th century engraving) " 43 91 Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun " 44 94 SPANISH.--MODERN THREAD BOBBIN LACE PLATE XXIX 94 SPANISH, BLONDE.--WHITE SILK DARNING ON MACHINE NET " XXX 94 Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun Fig. 45 95 " " " " 46 96 Old Spanish Pillow Lace " 47 100 PORTRAIT, DUCHESSE DE MONTPENSIER PLATE XXXI 100 JEWISH " XXXII 104 SPANISH " XXXIII 104 Bobbin Lace (Madeira) Fig. 48 106 " (Brazil) " 49 107 SPANISH.--PILLOW-MADE 19TH CENTURY PLATE XXXIV 108 PARAGUAY.--"NAUDUTI" " XXXV 108 Lace-making Fig. 50 110 FLEMISH.--PORTION OF BED-COVER PLATE XXXVI 110 Cap of Emperor Charles V. Fig. 51 112 Isabella Clara Eugenia, Daughter of Philip II. " 52 112 Mary, Queen of Hungary, Cuff " 53 113 Belgian Lace School " 54 114 Old Flemish Bobbin Lace " 55 114 Old Flemish.--Trolle Kant " 56 115 BRUSSELS.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES PLATE XXXVII 116 FLEMISH.--TAPE LACE, BOBBIN-MADE " XXXVIII 116 Brussels Needle-Point Fig. 57 118 " " " 58 120 Brussels.--Point à l'Aiguille " 58A 120 Old Brussels.--Point d'Angleterre " 59 122 " " " " 60 124 MECHLIN, 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY PLATE XXXIX 126 Mechlin.--Period Louis XVI. Fig. 61 127 Mechlin, formerly belonging to H.M. Queen Charlotte " 62 128 MECHLIN.--THREE SPECIMENS FROM VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM PLATE XL 128 A Lady of Antwerp Fig. 63 130 Antwerp Pot Lace " 64 130 Valenciennes Lace of Ypres " 65 132 FLEMISH.--FLAT SPANISH BOBBIN LACE PLATE XLI 132 FLEMISH.--GUIPURE DE FLANDRE " XLII 134 BELGIAN.--BOBBIN-MADE, BINCHE " XLIII 136 " " MARCHE " XLIV 136 DRAWN AND EMBROIDERED MUSLIN, FLEMISH " XLV 136 RUFF, EDGED WITH LACE " XLVI 142 BRUSSELS.--FLOUNCE, BOBBIN-MADE " XLVII 144 Cinq-Mars.--M. de Versailles Fig. 66 145 " .--After his portrait by Le Wain " 67 146 Lace Rose and Garter " 68 147 Young Lady's Apron, time of Henry III " 69 148 BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE, PERIOD LOUIS XIV. PLATE XLVIII 150 " .--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU " XLIX 150 Anne of Austria Fig. 70 151 A Courtier of the Regency " 71 152 Canons of Louis XIV " 72 154 Chateau de Louvai " 73 156 CHENILLE RUN ON A BOBBIN-GROUND PLATE L 156 BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE " LI 156 Le Grand Bébé Fig. 74 162 Louvois, 1691 " 75 163 Madame de Maintenon " 76 164 Lady in Morning déshabille " 77 165 Le Grand Dauphin en Steinkerque " 78 168 Madame du Lude en Steinkerque " 79 168 Madame Palatine " 80 169 BRUSSELS.--MODERN POINT DE GAZE PLATE LII 170 Madame Sophie de France, 1782 Fig. 81 175 Madame Adélaide de France " 82 176 MADAME LOUISE DE FRANCE PLATE LIII 176 Madame Thérèse Fig. 83 177 Marie-Antoinette " 84 179 Madame Adélaide de France " 85 182 FRENCH.--BORDER OF POINT PLAT DE FRANCE PLATE LIV 188 Colbert, + 1683 Fig. 86 189 Venice Point " 87 191 FRENCH.--POINT D'ALENÇON PLATE LV 192 Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé Fig. 88 194 Bed made for Napoleon I. " 89 197 Alençon Point à Petites Bredes " 90 200 Point d'Alençon, Louis XV. " 91 200 POINT D'ALENÇON. FLOUNCE PLATE LVI 202-3 Point d'Argentan Fig. 92 204 " " . Grande Bride ground " 93 206 FRENCH.--POINT D'ARGENTAN, 18TH CENTURY PLATE LVII 208 Point de Paris Fig. 94 210 Point de France " 95 210 FRENCH (OR DUTCH).--VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM PLATE LVIII 212 Chantilly Fig. 96 214 Cauchoise " 97 217 FRENCH, CHANTILLY.--FLOUNCE PLATE LIX 218 FRENCH, LE PUY.--BLACK SILK GUIPURE " LX 218 Petit Poussin, Dieppe Fig. 98 219 Ave Maria, Dieppe " 99 220 Point de Dieppe " 100 221 Dentelle à la Vierge " 101 222 Duc de Peuthièvre " 102 223 FRENCH.--BLONDE MALE, IN SPANISH STYLE PLATE LXI 226 Modern Black Lace of Bayeux Fig. 103 227 Point Colbert " 104 228 Valenciennes, 1650-1780 " 105 230 " Period, Louis XIV. " 106 232 " 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY PLATE LXII 232 " Fig. 107 234 Valenciennes Lappet " 108 234 Lille " 109 236 " " 110 238 Arras " 111 240 FRENCH, CAMBRAI PLATES LXIII, LXIV 246 FRENCH, LE PUY PLATE LXV 246 Point de Bourgogne Fig. 112 256 WILLIAM, PRINCE OF ORANGE PLATE LXVI 258 Dutch Bobbin Lace Fig. 113 260 Tomb of Barbara Uttmann " 114 261 Barbara Uttmann " 114A 262 SWISS, NEUCHATEL PLATE LXVII 264 GERMAN, NUREMBERG " LXVIII 264 ENGLISH, BUCKS " LXIX 264 HUNGARIAN.--BOBBIN LACE " LXX 268 AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN " LXXI 268 Shirt Collar of Christian IV. Fig. 115 273 Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin " 116 274 RUSSIAN--NEEDLEPOINT; GERMAN--SAXON PLATE LXXII 276 RUSSIAN, OLD BOBBIN-MADE " LXXIII 276 RUSSIAN, BOBBIN-MADE IN THREAD PLATE LXXIV 280 Dalecarlian Lace Fig. 117 281 Collar of Gustavus Adolphus " 118 282 Russia, Bobbin-made, 19th Century " 119 284 CAP, FLEMISH OR GERMAN PLATE XXV 288 Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 120 292 ENGLISH.--CUTWORK AND NEEDLE-POINT PLATE LXXVI 292 ENGLISH.--DEVONSHIRE "TROLLY." " LXXVII 292 Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 121 293 MARIE DE LORRAINE PLATE LXXVIII 298 Queen Elizabeth's Smock Fig. 122 308 Christening Caps, Needle-made Brussels Figs. 123, 124 309 MARY SIDNEY, COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE PLATE LXXIX 316 HENRY WROTHESLEY, THIRD EARL OF SOUTHAMPTON " LXXX 320 Monument of Princess Sophia Fig. 125 321 " " " Mary " 126 322 Mary, Countess of Pembroke " 127 323 ELIZABETH, PRINCESS PALATINE PLATE LXXXI 326 Falling Collar of the 17th Century Fig. 128 327 Boots, Cuffs Figs. 129, 130 328 English Needle-made Lace Fig. 131 328 JAMES HARRINGTON PLATE LXXXII 332 JAMES, THE OLD PRETENDER, AND HIS SISTER, PRINCESS LOUISA PLATE LXXXIII 344 JOHN LAW, THE PARIS BANKER " LXXXIV 352 Ripon Fig. 132 373 ENGLISH, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXV 374 Buckinghamshire Trolly Fig. 133 381 " Point " 134 382 " " " 135 383 ENGLISH, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXVI 384 Old Flemish Fig. 136 385 Old Brussels " 137 385 "Run" Lace, Newport Pagnell " 138 386 English Point, Northampton " 139 386 "Baby" Lace, Northampton " 140 387 " " Beds " 141 387 " " Bucks " 142 387 Wire Ground, Northampton " 143 388 Valenciennes " " 144 388 Regency Point, Bedford " 145 389 Insertion, " " 146 389 Plaited Lace, " " 147 392 Raised Plait, " " 148 393 ENGLISH, SUFFOLK, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXVII 394 English Needle-made Lace Fig. 149 396 HONITON WITH THE VRAI RÉSEAU PLATE LXXXVIII 402 Bone Lace from Cap, Devonshire Fig. 150 404 Monument of Bishop Stafford, Exeter Cathedral " 151 406 Monument of Lady Doddridge " " " 152 407 Honiton, sewn on plain pillow ground " 153 408 Old Devonshire " 154 408 Honiton Guipure " 155 410 Honeysuckle, Sprig of Modern Honiton " 156 411 Old Devonshire Point " 157 412 Lappet made by the late Mrs. Treadwin of Exeter " 158 412 Venetian Relief in Point " 159 414 ENGLISH.--DEVONSHIRE. FAN MADE AT BEER FOR THE PARIS EXHIBITION, 1900 PLATE LXXXIX 416 Sir Alexander Gibson Fig. 160 424 Scotch, Hamilton " 161 431 IRISH, YOUGHAL PLATE XC 436 IRISH, CARRICKMACROSS " XCI 442 IRISH, LIMERICK LACE " XCII 442 IRISH, CROCHET LACE " XCIII 446 Arms of the Framework Knitters' Company Fig. 162 447 The Lagetta, or Lace-bark Tree " 163 456 Metre P. Quinty Figs. 164, 165 460 Pattern Book, Augsburg " 166, 167 462 Augsburg Fig. 168 463 Le Pompe, 1559 " 169 473 Manner of Pricking Pattern " 170 486 Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605 " 171 492 Monogram " 172 492 "Bavari," from "Ornamento nobile" of Lucretia Romana " 173 498 {1}HISTORY OF LACE.