28. Powdered mint.

_In a drawer under._ Half a dozen one ounce bottles. Weights and scales. A graduated glass measure, divided into tea- and table-spoons. Corkscrew. Nutmeg-grater. Table and tea-spoon. Knife and fork. A steel, and a Small mortar. +-----+---+----+----+ | | 5 | 13 | 21 | | 1 +---+----+----+ | | 6 | 14 | 22 | +-----+---+----+----+ | | 7 | 15 | 23 | | 2 +---+----+----+ | | 8 | 16 | 24 | +-----+---+----+----+ | | 9 | 17 | 25 | | 3 +---+----+----+ | |10 | 18 | 26 | +-----+---+----+----+ | |11 | 19 | 27 | | 4 +---+----+----+ | |12 | 20 | 28 | +-----+---+----+----+ N.B. The portable magazine of taste, alluded to in page 44, may be furnished with a four-ounce bottle for Cognac (No. 471), a ditto for Curaçoa (No. 474), an ounce bottle for essence of anchovy (No. 433), and one of like size for mushroom catchup. _Toast and Water._--(No. 463.) Cut a crust of bread off a stale loaf, about twice the thickness toast is usually cut: toast it carefully until it be completely browned all over, but not at all blackened or burnt; pour as much boiling water as you wish to make into drink, into the jug; put the toast into it, and let it stand till it is quite cold: the fresher it is the better. _Obs._--A roll of thin fresh-cut lemon, or dried orange-peel, or some currant-jelly (No. 475*), apples sliced or roasted, &c. infused with the bread, are grateful additions. N.B. If the boiling water be poured on the bread it will break it, and make the drink grouty. N.B. This is a refreshing summer drink; and when the proportion of the fluids is destroyed by profuse perspiration, may be drunk plentifully. Let a large jug be made early in the day, it will then become warmed by the heat of the air, and may be drunk without danger; which water, cold as it comes from the well, cannot in hot weather. _Or_, To make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a mug, and just cover it with boiling water; let it stand till cold, then fill it up with cold spring-water, and pour it through a fine sieve. _Obs._--The above is a pleasant and excellent beverage, grateful to the stomach, and deserves a constant place by the bed-side. _Cool Tankard, or Beer Cup._--(No. 464.) A quart of mild ale, a glass of white wine, one of brandy, one of capillaire, the juice of a lemon, a roll of the peel pared thin, nutmeg grated at the top (a sprig of borrage[294-*] or balm), and a bit of toasted bread. _Cider Cup_,--(No. 465.) Is the same, only substituting cider for beer. _Flip._--(No. 466.) Keep grated ginger and nutmeg with a little fine dried lemon-peel, rubbed together in a mortar. To make a quart of flip:--Put the ale on the fire to warm, and beat up three or four eggs, with four ounces of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg or ginger, and a quartern of good old rum or brandy. When the ale is near to boil, put it into one pitcher, and the rum and eggs, &c. into another; turn it from one pitcher to another till it is as smooth as cream. N.B. This quantity I styled _one yard of flannel_. _Obs._--The above is set down in the words of the publican who gave us the receipt. _Tewahdiddle._--(No. 467.) A pint of table beer (or ale, if you intend it for a supplement to your "night cap"), a table-spoonful of brandy, and a tea-spoonful of brown sugar, or clarified syrup (No. 475); a little grated nutmeg or ginger may be added, and a roll of very thin-cut lemon-peel. _Obs._--Before our readers make any remarks on this composition, we beg of them to taste it: if the materials are good, and their palate vibrates in unison with our own, they will find it one of the pleasantest beverages they ever put to their lips; and, as Lord Ruthven says, "this is a right gossip's cup that far exceeds all the ale that ever Mother Bunch made in her life-time." See his Lordship's _Experiments in Cookery_, &c. 18mo. London, 1654, p. 215. _Sir Fleetwood Shepherd's Sack Posset._--(No. 467*.) "From famed Barbadoes, on the western main, Fetch sugar, ounces four--fetch sack from Spain, A pint,--and from the eastern Indian coast Nutmeg, the glory of our northern toast; O'er flaming coals let them together heat, Till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet; O'er such another fire put eggs just ten, New-born from tread of cock and rump of hen: Stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking To see the untimely end of ten fine chicken: From shining shelf take down the brazen skillet,-- A quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it. When boiled and cold, put milk and sack to eggs, Unite them firmly like the triple league, And on the fire let them together dwell Till Miss sing twice--you must not kiss and tell-- Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon, And fall on fiercely like a starved dragoon." _To bottle Beer._--(No. 468.) When the briskness and liveliness of malt liquors in the cask fail, and they become dead and vapid, which they generally do soon after they are tilted; let them be bottled. Be careful to use clean and dried bottles; leave them unstopped for twelve hours, and then cork them as closely as possible with good and sound new corks; put a bit of lump sugar as big as a nutmeg into each bottle: the beer will be ripe, _i. e._ fine and sparkling, in about four or five weeks: if the weather is cold, to put it up the day before it is drunk, place it in a room where there is a fire. Remember there is a sediment, &c. at the bottom of the bottles, which you must carefully avoid disturbing; so pour it off at once, leaving a wine-glassful at the bottom. *.* If beer becomes hard or stale, a few grains of carbonate of potash added to it at the time it is drunk will correct it, and make draught beer as brisk as bottled ale. _Rich Raspberry Wine or Brandy._--(No. 469.) Bruise the finest ripe raspberries with the back of a spoon; strain them through a flannel bag into a stone jar, allowing a pound of fine powdered loaf sugar to each quart of juice; stir it well together, and cover it down; let it stand for three days, stirring it up each day; pour off the clear, and put two quarts of sherry, or one of Cognac brandy, to each quart of juice; bottle it off: it will be fit for the glass in a fortnight. N.B. Or make it with the jelly, No. 479. _Liqueurs._--(No. 471.) We have very little to tell from our own experience, and refer our reader to "_Nouvelle Chimie du Goût et de l'Odorat, ou l'Art du Distillateur, du Confiseur, et du Parfumeur, mis à la portée de tout le Monde_." Paris, 2 tom. 8vo. 1819. Next to teaching how to make good things at home, is the information where those things may be procured ready made of the best quality. It is in vain to attempt to imitate the best foreign liqueurs, unless we can obtain the pure vinous spirit with which they are made. Johnson and Co., foreign liqueur and brandy merchants to his majesty and the royal family, No. 2, Colonnade, Pall Mall, are justly famous for importing of the best quality, and selling in a genuine state, seventy-one varieties of foreign liqueurs, &c. _Curaçoa._--(No. 474.) Put five ounces of thin-cut Seville orange-peel, that has been dried and pounded, or, which is still better, of the fresh peel of a fresh shaddock, which may be bought at the orange and lemon shops in the beginning of March, into a quart of the finest and cleanest rectified spirit; after it has been infused a fortnight, strain it, and add a quart of syrup (No. 475), and filter. See the following receipt: _To make a Quart of Curaçoa._ To a pint of the cleanest and strongest rectified spirit, add two drachms and a half of the sweet oil of orange-peel; shake it up: dissolve a pound of good lump sugar in a pint of cold water; make this into a clarified syrup (No. 475): which add to the spirit: shake it up, and let it stand till the following day: then line a funnel with a piece of muslin, and that with filtering-paper, and filter it two or three times till it is quite bright. This liqueur is an admirable cordial; and a tea-spoonful in a tumbler of water is a very refreshing summer drink, and a great improvement to punch. _Clarified Syrup._--(No. 475.) Break into bits two pounds (avoirdupois) of double refined lump sugar, and put it into a clean stew-pan (that is well tinned), with a pint of cold spring-water; when the sugar is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire: beat about half the white of an egg, put it to the sugar before it gets warm, and stir it well together. Watch it; and when it boils take off the scum; keep it boiling till no scum rises, and it is perfectly clear; then run it through a clean napkin: put it into a close stopped bottle; it will keep for months, and is an elegant article on the sideboard for sweetening. _Obs._--The proportion of sugar ordered in the above syrup is a quarter pound more than that directed in the Pharmacopoeia of the London College of Physicians. The quantity of sugar must be as much as the liquor is capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or it will ferment, and quickly spoil: if kept in a temperate degree of heat, the above proportion of sugar may be considered the basis of all syrups. _Capillaire._--(No. 476.) To a pint of clarified syrup add a wine-glass of Curaçoa (No. 474); or dissolve a drachm of oil of Neroli in two ounces of rectified spirit, and add a few drops of it to clarified syrup. _Lemonade in a Minute._--(No. 477.) Pound a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, _i. e._ crystallized lemon acid,[297-*] with a few drops of quintessence of lemon-peel (No. 408), and mix it by degrees with a pint of clarified syrup (No. 475), or capillaire. For superlative syrup of lemons, see No. 391. _Obs._--The proportion of acid to the syrup, was that selected (from several specimens) by the committee of taste. We advise those who are disposed to verify our receipt, to mix only three quarters of a pint of syrup first, and add the other quarter if they find it too acid. If you have none of No. 408, flavour your syrup with thin-cut lemon-peel, or use syrup of lemon-peel (No. 393). A table-spoonful of this in a pint of water will immediately produce a very agreeable sherbet; the addition of rum or brandy will convert this into _Punch directly._--(No. 478.) _Shrub, or Essence of Punch._--(No. 479.) Brandy or rum, flavoured with No. 477, will give you very good extempore "essence of punch." _Obs._--The addition of a quart of Sherry or Madeira makes "punch royal;" if, instead of wine, the above quantity of water be added, it will make "punch for chambermaids," according to SALMON'S _Cookery_, 8vo. London, 1710. See page 405; and No. 268 in NOTT'S _Cook's Dictionary_, 8vo. 1724. _White, Red, or Black Currant, Grape, Raspberry, &c. Jelly._[298-*]--(No. 479*.) Are all made precisely in the same manner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day: as soon as it is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and cover it down very close. Set the jar in a saucepan about three parts filled with cold water; put it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take the pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag: pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. To each pint of juice add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar pounded; when it is dissolved, put it into a preserving-pan; set it on the fire, and boil gently; stirring and skimming it the whole time (about thirty or forty minutes), _i. e._ till no more scum rises, and it is perfectly clear and fine: pour it while warm into pots; and when cold, cover them with paper wetted in brandy. Half a pint of this jelly, dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar, will give you excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar. To make sweet sauce, see No. 346. _Obs._--Jellies from other fruits are made in the same way, and cannot be preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. Those who wish jelly to turn out very stiff, dissolve isinglass in a little water, strain through a sieve, and add it in the proportion of half an ounce to a pint of juice, and put it in with the sugar. The best way is the cheapest. Jellies made with too small a proportion of sugar, require boiling so long; there is much more waste of juice and flavour by evaporation than the due quantity of sugar costs; and they neither look nor taste half so delicate, as when made with a proper proportion of sugar, and moderate boiling. _Mock Arrack._--(No. 480.) Dissolve two scruples of flowers of benjamin in a quart of good rum, and it will immediately impart to it the inviting fragrance of "Vauxhall nectar." _Calves'-Feet Jelly._--(No. 481.) Take four calves' feet (not those which are sold at tripe-shops, which have been boiled till almost all the gelatine is extracted; but buy them at the butcher's), slit them in two, take away the fat from between the claws, wash them well in lukewarm water; then put them in a large stew-pan, and cover them with water: when the liquor boils, skim it well, and let it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may be reduced to about two quarts; then strain it through a sieve, and skim off all the oily substance which is on the surface of the liquor. If you are not in a hurry, it is better to boil the calves' feet the day before you make the jelly; as when the liquor is cold, the oily part being at the top, and the other being firm, with pieces of kitchen paper applied to it, you may remove every particle of the oily substance, without wasting any of the liquor. Put the liquor in a stew-pan to melt, with a pound of lump sugar, the peel of two lemons, the juice of six, six whites and shells of eggs beat together, and a bottle of sherry or Madeira; whisk the whole together until it is on the boil; then put it by the side of the stove, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour; strain it through a jelly-bag: what is strained first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as bright and as clear as rock-water; then put the jelly in moulds, to be cold and firm: if the weather is too warm, it requires some ice. _Obs._--When it is wished to be very stiff, half an ounce of isinglass may be added when the wine is put in. It may be flavoured by the juice of various fruits, and spices, &c. and coloured with saffron, cochineal, red beet juice, spinage juice, claret, &c.; and it is sometimes made with cherry brandy, or noyeau rouge, or Curaçoa (No. 474), or essence of punch (No. 479), instead of wine. N.B. Ten shank bones of mutton, which may be bought for 2-1/2_d._, will give as much jelly as a calf's foot, which costs a shilling. See pages 225, 226 of this work. FOOTNOTES: [228-*] This may be easily accomplished by the aid of that whip and spur, which students of long standing in the school of good living are generally so fond of enlivening their palates with, _i. e._ Cayenne and garlic. Parsley (No. 261), chervil (No. 264), celery (No. 289), cress (No. 397*), tarragon (No. 396), burnet (No. 399), basil (No. 397), eschalot (Nos. 295 and 403), caper (Nos. 274 and 295), fennel (No. 265), liver (Nos. 287 and 288), curry (Nos. 348 and 455), egg, (No. 267,) mushroom (No. 403), anchovy (Nos. 270 and 433), ragoût (Nos. 421 and 457), shrimp (No. 283), bonne bouche (No. 341,) superlative (No. 429), and various flavouring essences. See from No. 396 to 463. Any of the above vegetables, &c. may be minced very finely, and sent to table on a little plate, and those who like their flavour may mix them with melted butter, &c. This is a hint for economists, which will save them many pounds of butter, &c. See MEM. to No. 256. [228-+] A silver saucepan is infinitely the best: you may have one big enough to melt butter for a moderate family, for four or five pounds. [234-*] Oysters which come to the New-York market, are too large and fine to be mangled according to this receipt. They are generally cooked by being fried or stewed. When they are intended to be kept a length of time, they are pickled in vinegar, with spices. A. [236-*] You must have a hen lobster, on account of the live spawn. Some fishmongers have a cruel custom of tearing this from the fish before they are boiled. Lift up the tail of the lobster, and see that it has not been robbed of its eggs: the goodness of your sauce depends upon its having a full share of the spawn in it, to which it owes not merely its brilliant red colour, but the finest part of its flavour. [238-*] So much depends upon the age of the celery, that we cannot give any precise time for this, young, fresh-gathered celery will be done enough in three-quarters of an hour; old will sometimes take twice as long. [240-*] If you wish to have them _very_ mild, cut them in quarters, boil them for five minutes in plenty of water, and then drain them, and cook them in fresh water. [244-*] Composer and Director of the Music of the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, and the Italian Opera. [246-*] "By the best accounts I can find, soy is a preparation from the seeds of a species of the _Dolichos_, prepared by a fermentation of the farina of this seed in a strong lixivium of common salt."--CULLEN'S _Mat. Med._ vol. i. p. 430. [250-*] One of "_les bonnes hommes de bouche de France_" orders the following addition for game gravy:--"For a pint, par-roast a partridge or a pigeon; cut off the meat of it, pound it in a mortar, and put it into the stew-pan when you _thicken_ the sauce." We do not recommend either soup or sauce to be _thickened_, because it requires (to give it the same quickness on the palate it had before it was thickened) double the quantity of _piquante_ materials; which are thus smuggled down the red lane, without affording any amusement to the mouth, and at the risk of highly offending the stomach. [251-*] To this some add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (No. 439), and instead of the salt-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy (No. 433). If the above articles are rubbed together in a mortar, and put into a close-stopped bottle, they will keep for some time. [251-+] Thus far the above is from Dr. HUNTER'S "_Culina_," who says it is a secret worth knowing: we agree with him, and so tell it here, with a little addition, which we think renders it a still more gratifying communication. [252-*] See Basil Wine (No. 397). [260-*] These are sold at the glass-shops under the name of INCORPORATORS: we recommend the sauce to be mixed in these, and the company can then take it or leave it, as they like. [263-*] If you have no suet, the best substitute for it is about one-third part the quantity of butter. [267-*] A _baine-marie_. See note to No. 485. [275-*] The fragrant _aroma_ of ginger is so extremely volatile, that it evaporates almost as soon as it is powdered; and the fine lemon-peel _goût_ flies off presently. [275-+] Tinctures are much finer flavoured than essences. [277-*] For the season, &c. when these herbs, &c. come in perfection, and how to dry them, see No. 461. [278-*] We hope this title will not offend those who may quote against it the old adage, "that good appetite is the best sauce."--Allowing this to be generally true (which is a more candid confession than could be expected from a cook), we dare say, the majority of our readers will vote with us, that there are many good things (fish especially) that would be rather insipid without a little sauce of another kind. "Wherefore did Nature pour her bounties forth, With such a full and unwithdrawing hand, Covering the earth with odours, fruits, and flocks, Thronging the sea with spawn innumerable; But all to please and sate the curious taste?" MILTON. [280-*] "Several samples which we examined of this fish sauce, have been found contaminated with lead."--See ACCUM _on Adulteration_, page 328. [280-+] They may do very well for common palates; but to imitate the fine flavour of the Gorgona fish, so as to impose upon a well-educated _gourmand_, still remains in the catalogue of the sauce-maker's desiderata. [280-++] The economist may take the thick remains that wont pass through the sieve, and pound it with some flour, and make anchovy paste, or powder. See Nos. 434 and 435. [281-*] Epicure QUIN used to say, "Of all the banns of marriage I ever heard, none gave me half such pleasure as the union of delicate ANN-CHOVY with good JOHN-DORY." [281-+] "Rust in anchovies, if I'm not mistaken, Is as bad as rust in steel, or rust in bacon." YOUNG'S _Epicure_, page 14. [281-++] If you are not contented with the natural colour, break some lobsters' eggs into it, and you will not only heighten the complexion of your sauce, but improve its flavour. This is the only _rouge_ we can recommend. See note to No. 284. [283-*] "The mushrooms employed for preparing ready-made catchup, are generally those which are in a putrefactive state. In a few days after those _fungi_ have been gathered, they become the habitations of myriads of insects."--ACCUM _on Culinary Poisons_, 12mo. 1820, p. 350. [284-*] The squeezings are the perquisite of the cook, to make sauce for the second table: do not deprive her of it; it is the most profitable _save-all_ you can give her, and will enable her to make up a good family dinner, with what would otherwise be wasted. After the mushrooms have been squeezed, dry them in the Dutch oven, and make mushroom powder. [286-*] "Potatoes, in whatever condition, whether spoiled by frost, germination, &c., provided they are raw, constantly afford starch, differing only in quality, the round gray ones the most; a pound producing about two ounces."--PARMENTIER _on Nutritive Vegetables_, 8vo. p. 31. "100lb. of potatoes yield 10lb. of starch."--S. GRAY'S _Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia_, 8vo. 1821, p. 198. [288-*] If you like the flavour, and do not dislike the expense, instead of allspice, put in mace and cloves. The above is very similar to the _powder-fort_ used in King Richard the Second's kitchen, A. D. 1390. See "_Pegge Forme of Cury_" p. xxx. [288-+] The back part of these ovens is so much hotter than that which is next the fire, that to dry things equally, their situation must be frequently changed, or those at the back of the oven will be done too much, before those in the front are done enough. [291-*] This is sadly neglected by those who dry herbs for sale. If you buy them ready dried, before you pound them, cleanse them from dirt and dust by stripping the leaves from the stalks, and rub them between your hands over a hair-sieve; put them into the sieve, and shake them well, and the dust will go through. [291-+] The common custom is to put them into paper bags, and lay them on a shelf in the kitchen, exposed to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, &c.: thus they soon lose their flavour. [291-++] A delicious herb, that deserves to be better known. [292-*] If the bottles are square, and marked to quarter ounces, as LYNE'S graduated measures are, it will save trouble in compounding. [294-*] "BORRAGE is one of the four _cordial_ flowers;" it comforts the heart, cheers melancholy, and revives the fainting spirits, says SALMON, in the 45th page of his "_Household Companion_" London, 1710. And EVELYN, in page 13 of his _Acetaria_, says, "The sprigs in _wine_ are of known virtue to revive the hypochondriac, and cheer the hard student."--Combined with the ingredients in the above receipt, we have frequently observed it produce all the cardiac and exhilarating effects ascribed to it. [297-*] Tartaric is only half the price of citric acid; but it is very inferior in flavour, &c.; and those who prepare this syrup for home consumption, will always use the citric. [298-*] The native blackberry of this country makes a very fine jelly, and is medicinal in bowel complaints of children. A. MADE DISHES, &C. _Receipts for economical_ Made Dishes,_ written for the_ Cook's Oracle, _by an accomplished_ English Lady.--(No. 483.) These experiments have arisen from my aversion to cold meat, and my preference for what are termed French dishes; with which, by a certain management, I think I can furnish my table at far less expense than is generally incurred in getting up a plain dinner. Gravy or soup meats I never buy; and yet am seldom without a good provision of what is technically denominated stock. When, as it frequently happens, we have ham dressed; if the joint be above the weight of seven pounds, I have it cut in half, and prepared in the following manner: first, ensure that it has been properly soaked, scraped, and cleaned to a nicety; then put it into an earthen vessel, as near its own size as possible, with just as much water as will cover it; to which add four onions, a clove of garlic, half a dozen eschalots, a bay-leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, a few peppercorns and allspice: this should be well closed, and kept simmering about three hours. It is then served with raspings or with glazing, the rind having first been taken off neatly. The liquor is strained, and kept till poultry of any sort, or meat, is boiled; when the liquor in which they have been dressed should be added to it, and boiled down fast till reduced to about three pints; when cold, it will be a highly flavoured, well-coloured jelly,[300-*] and ready for sauce for all kinds of ragoûts and hashes, &c. &c. A fillet of veal I divide into three parts; the meat before it is skewered, will of itself indicate where the partition is natural, and will pull asunder as you would quarter an orange; the largest piece should be stuffed with No. 374 or No. 375, and rolled up, compactly skewered, &c., and makes a very pretty small fillet: the square flat piece will either cut into cutlets (No. 90, or No. 521), or slice for a pie; and the thick piece must be well larded and dressed as a fricandeau; which I do in the following-manner: put the larded veal into a stew-pan just big enough to contain it, with as much water as will cover it; when it has simmered till delicately white, and so tender as to be cut with a spoon, it must be taken out of the water and set apart; and it will be ready to serve up either with sorrel, tomata, mushrooms (No. 305, or No. 439), or some of the above-mentioned stock, the fricandeau being previously coloured with glazing; if with mushrooms, they should be first parboiled in salt and vinegar, and water, which gives them flavour, and keeps them of a good colour. The sirloin of beef I likewise divide into three parts; I first have it nicely boned. The under part, or fillet, as the French call it, will dress (when cut into slices) excellently, either as plain steaks (No. 94), curry (No. 197), or it may be larded whole, and gently stewed in two quarts of water (a bay-leaf, two onions, their skins roasted brown, four cloves, allspice, &c. &c.) till tender, when it should be taken out, drained quite dry, and put away; it is then ready to be used at any time in the following manner: season and dredge it well, then put it into a stewpan in which a piece of butter has been previously fried to a fine froth; when the meat is sufficiently brown, take it out, and throw into the pan half a dozen middle-sized onions, to do a fine gold colour; that accomplished, (during which the dredger should be in constant use,) add half a pint of stock, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar (No. 396), and let the onions stew gently till nearly tender: the beef should then be returned to the stew-pan, and the whole suffered to simmer till the meat is warm through: care must be taken that the onions do not break, and they should be served round the beef with as much sauce as will look graceful in the dish. The fillet is likewise very good without the fried onions; in that case you should chop and mix up together an eschalot, some parsley, a few capers, and the yelk of a hard egg, and strew them lightly over the surface of the beef. The fat end of the sirloin and bones should be put to simmer in the liquor in which the fillet was first stewed, and done till the beef looks loose; it should then be put away into a deep vessel, and the soup strained over it, which cooling with the fat upon the top (thereby excluding the air), will keep as long as may be required: when the soup is to be used, the fat must be cleared from it; a carrot, parsnip, a head of celery, a leek, and three turnips, cleaned and scalded, should be added to it, and the whole suffered to simmer gently till the vegetables are quite done, when they must be strained from the liquor, and the soup served up with large square thick pieces of toasted bread. Those who like a plain bouilli warm the beef in the soup, and serve it up with the turnips and carrots which had been strained before from the soup. A white cabbage quartered is no bad addition to the garnish of the bouilli, or to the flavour of the soup. If it is a dressed bouilli, sliced carrots and button onions should be stewed in thickened stock, and poured over the meat. A neck of mutton boned, sprinkled with dried sage, powdered fine, or (No. 378) seasoned, rolled, and roasted, is very good. The bones and scrag make excellent gravy stewed down, and if done very gently, the meat is not bad eating. The same herbs should be put to it as to other stocks, with the addition of a carrot; this will make very good mutton broth. In short, wherever there are bones or trimmings to be got out of any meat that is dressed in my kitchen, they are made to contribute towards soup or gravy, or No. 252. Instead of roasting a hare, (which at best is but dry food), stew it, if young, plain; if an old one, lard it. The shoulders and legs should be taken off, and the back cut into three pieces; these, with a bay-leaf, half a dozen eschalots, one onion pierced with four cloves, should be laid with as much good vinegar as will cover them, for twenty-four hours, in a deep dish. In the mean time, the head, neck, ribs, liver, heart, &c. &c. should be browned in frothed butter well seasoned; add half a pound of lean bacon, cut into small pieces, a large bunch of herbs, a carrot, and a few allspice; simmer these in a quart of water till it be reduced to about half the quantity, when it should be strained, and those parts of the hare which have been infused in the vinegar, should (with the whole contents of the dish) be added to it, and stewed till quite done. Those who like onions may brown half a dozen, stew them in a part of the gravy, and dish them round the hare. When it comes from the table, supposing some to be left, the meat should be taken from the bones, and with a few forcemeat balls, the remains of the gravy, about a quarter of a pint of red wine, and a proportionable quantity of water, it will make a very pretty soup; to those who have no objection to catchup (No. 439,) a spoonful in the original gravy is an improvement, as indeed it is in every made dish, where the mushroom itself is not at command. Every ragoût, in my opinion, should be dressed the day before it is wanted, that any fat which has escaped the skimming spoon, may with ease be taken off when cold. CALF'S HEAD.--Take the half of one, with the skin on; put it into a large stew-pan, with, as much water as will cover it, a knuckle of ham, and the usual accompaniments of onions, herbs, &c. &c., and let it simmer till the flesh may be separated from the bone with a spoon; do so, and while still hot, cut it into as large a sized square as the piece will admit of; the trimmings and half the liquor put by in a tureen; to the remaining half add a gill of white wine, and reduce the whole of that by quick boiling till it is again half consumed, when it should be poured over the large square piece in an earthen vessel, surrounded with mushrooms, white button onions, small pieces of pickled pork, half an inch in breadth, and one and a half in length, and the tongue in slices, and simmered till the whole is fit to serve up; some browned forcemeat balls are a pretty addition. After this comes from the table, the remains should be cut into small pieces, and mixed up with the trimmings and liquor, which (with a little more wine), properly thickened, will make a very good mock turtle soup for a future occasion. _To hash Mutton, &c._--(No. 484.) Cut the meat into slices, about the thickness of two shillings, trim off all the sinews, skin, gristle, &c.; put in nothing but what is to be eaten, lay them on a plate, ready; prepare your sauce to warm it in, as receipt (No. 360, or No. 451, or No. 486), put in the meat, and let it simmer gently till it is thoroughly warm: do not let it boil, as that will make the meat tough and hard,[303-*] and it will be, as Joan Cromwell[303-+] has it, a harsh. _Obs._--Select for your hash those parts of the joint that are least done. MEM.--Hashing is a mode of cookery by no means suited to delicate stomachs: unless the meat, &c. be considerably under-done the first time, a second dressing must spoil it, for what is done enough the first time, must be done too much the second. _To warm Hashes,[304-*] Made Dishes, Stews, Ragoûts, Soups, &c._--(No. 485.) Put what you have left into a deep hash-dish or tureen; when you want it, set this in a stew-pan of boiling water: let it stand till the contents are quite warm. _To hash Beef, &c._--(No. 486.) Put a pint and a half of broth, or water, with an ounce of No. 252, or a large table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, into a stew-pan with the gravy you have saved that was left from the beef, and put in a quarter ounce of onion sliced very fine, and boil it about ten minutes; put a large table-spoonful of flour into a basin, just wet it with a little water, mix it well together, and then stir it into the broth, and give it a boil for five or ten minutes; rub it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive the beef, &c.; let it stand by the side of the fire till the meat is warm. N.B. A tea-spoonful of parsley chopped as fine as possible and put in five minutes before it is served up, is a great addition; others like half a wine-glass of port wine, and a dessert-spoonful of currant jelly. See also No. 360, which will show you every variety of manner of making and flavouring the most highly finished hash sauce, and Nos. 484, 485, and 506. _Cold Meat broiled, with Poached Eggs._--(No. 487.) The inside of a sirloin of beef is best for this dish, or a leg of mutton. Cut the slices of even and equal thickness, and broil and brown them carefully and slightly over a clear smart fire, or in a Dutch oven; give those slices most fire that are least done; lay them in a dish before the fire to keep hot, while you poach the eggs, as directed in No. 546, and mashed potatoes (No. 106). _Obs._--This makes a savoury luncheon or supper, but is more relishing than nourishing, unless the meat was under-done the first time it was dressed. No. 307 for sauce, to which some add a few drops of eschalot wine or vinegar. See No. 402, or No. 439, or No. 359, warmed; or Grill Sauce (No. 355.) MRS. PHILLIPS'S _Irish Stew._--(No. 488.) Take five thick mutton chops, or two pounds off the neck or loin; two pounds of potatoes; peel them, and cut them in halves; six onions, or half a pound of onions; peel and slice them also: first put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of your stew-pan, then a couple of chops and some of the onions; then again potatoes, and so on, till the pan is quite full; a small spoonful of white pepper, and about one and a half of salt, and three gills of broth or gravy, and two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup; cover all very close in, so as to prevent the steam from getting out, and let them stew for an hour and a half on a very slow fire. A small slice of ham is a great addition to this dish. The cook will be the best judge when it is done, as a great deal depends on the fire you have. N.B. Great care must be taken not to let it burn, and that it does not do too fast. _To make an Irish Stew, or Hunter's Pie._ Take part of a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, season it well, put it into a stew-pan, let it brase for half an hour, take two dozen of potatoes, boil them, mash them, and season them, butter your mould, and line it with the potatoes, put in the mutton, bake it for half an hour, then it will be done, cut a hole in the top, and add some good gravy to it. N.B. The above is the contribution of Mr. Morrison, of the Leinster hotel, Dublin. _A good Scotch Haggis._--(No. 488*.) Make the haggis-bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught; boil the liver very well, so as it will grate; dry the meal before the fire; mince the draught and a pretty large piece of beef very small; grate about half of the liver; mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these materials very well together, with a handful or two of the dried meal; spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin (_i. e._ a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into the bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; but be sure to put out all the wind before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put it in a cloth. If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling. N.B. The above we copied _verbatim_ from Mrs. MACIVER. a celebrated Caledonian professor of the culinary art, who taught, and published a book of cookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787. _Minced Collops._ "This is a favourite Scotch dish; few families are without it: it keeps well, and is always ready to make an extra dish. "Take beef, and chop and mince it very small; to which add some salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw state, into small jars, and pour on the top some clarified butter. When intended for use, put the clarified butter into a frying-pan, and slice some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add a little water to it, and then put in the minced meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes it will be fit to serve up."--The Hon. JOHN COCHRANE'S _Seaman's Guide_, 8vo. 1797, page 42. _Haricot[306-*] Mutton._--(No. 489.) Cut the best end of a neck or loin of mutton, that has been kept till tender, into chops of equal thickness, one rib to each ("_les bons hommes de bouche de Paris_" cut two chops to one bone, but it is more convenient to help when there is only one; two at a time is too large a dose for John Bull), trim off some of the fat, and the lower end of the chine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay them in a stew-pan, with an ounce of butter; set it over a smart fire; if your fire is not sharp, the chops will be done before they are coloured: the intention of frying them is merely to give them a very light browning. While the chops are browning, peel and boil a couple of dozen of young button onions in about three pints of water for about fifteen or twenty minutes, set them by, and pour off the liquor they were boiled in into the stew-pan with the chops: if that is not sufficient to cover them, add as much boiling water as will; remove the scum as it rises, and be careful they are not stewed too fast or too much; so take out one of them with a fish-slice, and try it: when they are tender, which will be in about an hour and a half, then pass the gravy through a sieve into a basin, set it in the open air that it may get cold, you may then easily and completely skim off the fat; in the mean time set the meat and vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and pour some boiling water over the button onions to warm them. Have about six ounces of carrots, and eight ounces of turnips, peeled and cut into slices, or shaped into balls about as big as a nutmeg; boil the carrots about half an hour, the turnips about a quarter of an hour, and put them on a sieve to drain, and then put them round the dish, the last thing. Thicken the gravy by putting an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as will stiffen it; pour the gravy to it by degrees, stir together till it boils; strain it through a fine sieve or tamis into a stew-pan, put in the carrots and turnips to get warm, and let it simmer gently while you dish up the meat; lay the chops round a dish; put the vegetables in the middle, and pour the thickened gravy over. Some put in capers, &c. minced gherkins, &c. _Obs._--Rump-steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, make excellent dishes dressed in the like manner. _Mutton-Chops delicately stewed, and good Mutton Broth_,--(No. 490.) Put the chops into a stew-pan with cold water enough to cover them, and an onion: when it is coming to a boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and set it over a very slow fire till the chops are tender: if they have been kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters of an hour's very gentle simmering. Send up turnips with them (No. 130); they may be boiled with the chops; skim well, and then send all up in a deep dish, with the broth they were stewed in. N. B. The broth will make an economist one, and the meat another, wholesome and comfortable meal. _Shoulder of Lamb grilled._--(No. 491.) Boil it; score it in checkers about an inch square, rub it over with the yelk of an egg, pepper and salt it, strew it with bread-crumbs and dried parsley, or sweet herbs, or No. 457, or No. 459, and _Carbonado_, _i. e._ grill, _i. e._ broil it over a clear fire, or put it in a Dutch oven till it is a nice light brown; send up some gravy with it, or make a sauce for it of flour and water well mixed together with an ounce of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup, and the juice of half a lemon. See also grill sauce (No. 355). N.B. Breasts of lamb are often done in the same way, and with mushroom or mutton sauce (No. 307). _Lamb's Fry._--(No. 492.) Fry it plain, or dip it in an egg well beaten on a plate, and strew some fine stale bread-crumbs over it; garnish with crisp parsley (No. 389). For sauce, No. 355, or No. 356. _Shin of Beef[308-*] stewed._--(No. 493.) Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four pieces, put it into a stew-pan, and just cover it with cold water; when it simmers, skim it clean; then put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a large onion, a head of celery, a dozen berries of black pepper, and the same of allspice: stew very gently over a slow fire till the meat is tender; this will take from about three hours and a half, to four and a half. Take three carrots, peel and cut them into small squares; peel and cut ready in small squares a couple of turnips, with a couple of dozen of small young round silver button onions; boil them, till tender; the turnips and onions will be enough in about fifteen minutes; the carrots will require about twice as long: drain them dry. When the beef is quite tender, take it out carefully with a slice, and put it on a dish while you thicken a pint and a half of the gravy: to do this, mix three table-spoonfuls of flour with a tea-cupful of the beef liquor; to make soup of the rest of it, see No. 238; stir this thoroughly together till it boils, skim off the fat, strain it through a sieve, and put your vegetables in to warm; season with pepper, salt, and a wine-glass of mushroom catchup (No. 439), or port wine, or both, and pour it over the beef. Send up Wow-wow sauce (No. 328) in a boat. N.B. Or, instead of sending up the beef whole, cut the meat into handsome pieces fit to help at table, and lay it in the middle of the dish, with the vegetables and sauce (which, if you flavour with No. 455, you may call "beef curry") round it. A leg of mutton is excellent dressed in the same way; equal to "_le gigot de sept heures_," so famous in the French kitchen. _Obs._--This stew has every claim to the attention of the rational epicure, being one of those in which "frugality," "nourishment," and "palatableness," are most happily combined; and you get half a gallon of excellent broth into the bargain. We advise the mistress of the table to call it "ragoût beef:" this will ensure its being eaten with unanimous applause; the homely appellation of "shin of beef stewed," is enough to give your genteel eater the locked jaw. "Remember, when the judgment's weak, the prejudice is strong." Our modern epicures resemble the ancient,[309-*] who thought the dearest dish must be the most delicious: ----"And think all wisdom lies In being impertinently nice." Thus, they reckon turtle and punch to be "sheventy-foive per shent" more inviting than mock turtle and good malt liquor: however bad the former may be, and however good the latter, we wish these folks could be made to understand, that the soup for each, and all the accompaniments, are precisely the same: there is this only difference, the former is commonly made with a "starved turtle" (see Notes at the foot of page 220), the latter with a "fatted calf." See Nos. 247, 343, and 343*. The scarcity of tolerably good cooks ceases to be surprising, when we reflect how much more astonishing is the ignorance of most of those who assume the character of scientific gourmands,[309-+] so extremely ignorant of "the affairs of the mouth," they seem hardly to "know a sheep's head from a carrot;" and their real pretensions to be profound palaticians, are as moderate as the wine-merchant's customer, whose sagacity in the selection of liquors was only so exquisite, that he knew that Port wine was black, and that if he drank enough of it, it would make him drunk. _Brisket of Beef stewed._--(No. 494.) This is prepared in exactly the same way as "soup and bouilli." See Nos. 5, 238, or 493. _Haricot of Beef._--(No. 495.) A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the same sauce of roots, &c., as we have directed for haricot of mutton (No. 489), is a most excellent dish, of very moderate expense. _Savoury Salt Beef baked._--(No. 496.) The tongue side of a round of beef is the best bit for this purpose: if it weighs fifteen pounds, let it hang two or three days; then take three ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of coarse sugar, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, and the same of allspice (some add a quarter of an ounce of ginger, or No. 457), and some minced sweet and savoury herbs (No. 459), and three quarters of a pound of common salt; incorporate these ingredients by pounding them together in a mortar; then take the bone out, and rub the meat well with the above mixture, turning it and rubbing it every day for a fortnight. When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water; cover the meat with about three pounds of mutton suet[310-*] shredded rather thick, and an onion or two minced small; cover the whole with a flour crust to the top or brim of the pan, and let it be baked in a moderate-heated oven for about six hours: (or, just cover it with water, and let it stew very gently for about five hours, and when you send it to table, cover the top of it with finely chopped parsley.) If the beef weighs more, put a proportional addition of all the ingredients. The gravy you will find a strong _consommé_, excellent for sauce or soup; or making soy, or browning, see No. 322, and being impregnated with salt, will keep several days. This joint should not be cut till it is cold: and then, with a sharp knife, to prevent waste, and keep it even and comely to the eye. _Obs._--This is a most excellent way of preparing and dressing beef (No. 503), and a savoury dish for sandwiches, &c. In moderate weather it will keep good for a fortnight after it is dressed: it is one of the most economical and elegant articles of ready-dressed keeping provisions; deserving the particular attention of those families who frequently have accidental customers dropping in at luncheon or supper. _Curries._--(No. 497; see also No. 249.) Cut fowls or rabbits into joints, and wash them clean: put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, put in the meat, and two middling-sized onions sliced, let them be over a smart fire till they are of a light brown, then put in half a pint of broth; let it simmer twenty minutes. Put in a basin one or two table-spoonfuls of curry powder (No. 455), a tea-spoonful of flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it smooth with a little cold water, put it into the stew-pan, and shake it well about till it boils: let it simmer twenty minutes longer; then take out the meat, and rub the sauce through a tamis or sieve: add to it two table spoonfuls of cream or milk; give it a boil up; then pour it into a dish, lay the meat over it: send up the rice in a separate dish. _Obs._--Curry is made also with sweetbreads, breast of veal, veal cutlets, lamb, mutton or pork chops, lobster, turbot, soles, eels, oysters, &c.: prepared as above, or enveloped in No. 348. _Obs._--This is a very savoury and economical dish, and a valuable variety at a moderate table. See Wow-wow sauce (No. 328). _Stewed Rump-Steaks._--(No. 500.) The steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling: let them be all the same thickness, or some will be done too little, and others too much. Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan, with two onions; when the butter is melted, lay in the rump-steaks, let them stand over a slow fire for five minutes, then turn them and let the other side of them fry for five minutes longer. Have ready boiled a pint of button onions; they will take from half an hour to an hour; put the liquor they were boiled in to the steaks; if there is not enough of it to cover them, add broth or boiling water, to make up enough for that purpose, with a dozen corns of black pepper, and a little salt, and let them simmer very gently for about an hour and a half, and then strain off as much of the liquor (about a pint and a half) as you think will make the sauce. Put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as will make it into a stiff paste; some add thereto a table-spoonful of claret, or Port wine, the same of mushroom catchup (No. 439), half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper: add the liquor by degrees; let it boil up for fifteen minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up the steaks with the onions round the dish, and pour the gravy over. Veal-cutlets or mutton-chops may be done the same way, or as veal-olives (No. 518). This is generally a second-course dish, and is usually made too rich, and only fit to re-excite an appetite already satiated. Our endeavour is to combine agreeable savouriness with substantial nourishment; those who wish to enrich our receipt, may easily add mushrooms, wine, anchovy, Cayenne, bay-leaves, &c. _Obs._ Rump-steaks are in best condition from Michaelmas to lady-day. To ensure their being tender, give the butcher three or four days' notice of your wish for them. _Broiled Rump-Steak with Onion Gravy._--(No. 501.) See also No. 299. Peel and slice two large onions, put them into a quart stew-pan, with two table-spoonfuls of water; cover the stew-pan close, and set it on a slow fire till the water has boiled away, and the onions have got a little browned; then add half a pint of good broth,[312-*] and boil the onions till they are tender; strain the broth from them, and chop them very fine, and season it with mushroom catchup, pepper, and salt: put the onion into it, and let it boil gently for five minutes; pour it into the dish, and lay over it a broiled rump-steak. If instead of broth you use good beef gravy, it will be superlative. *.* Stewed cucumber (No. 135) is another agreeable accompaniment to rump-steaks. _Alamode Beef, or Veal._--(No. 502.) In the 180 volumes on Cookery, we patiently pioneered through, before we encountered the tremendous labour and expense of proving the receipts of our predecessors, and set about recording these results of our own experiments, we could not find one receipt that approximated to any thing like an accurate description of the way in which this excellent dish is actually dressed in the best alamode beef shops; from whence, of course, it was impossible to obtain any information: however, after all, the whole of the secret seems to be the thickening of the gravy of beef that has been very slowly[313-*] stewed, and flavouring it with bay-leaves and allspice. Take about eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod of beef, or a blade-bone, or the sticking-piece, or the like weight of the breast of veal; cut it into pieces of three or four ounces each; put three or four ounces of beef drippings, and mince a couple of large onions, and put them into a large deep stew-pan; as soon as it is quite hot, flour the meat, put it into the stew-pan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; when it has been on about ten minutes, dredge it with flour, and keep doing so till you have stirred in as much as you think will thicken it; then cover it with boiling water (it will take about a gallon), adding it by degrees, and stirring it together; skim it when it boils, and then put in one drachm of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and two bay-leaves; set the pan by the side of the fire, or at a distance over it, and let it stew very slowly for about three hours; when you find the meat sufficiently tender, put it into a tureen, and it is ready for table. It is customary to send up with it a nice salad; see No. 372. *.* To the above many cooks add champignons; but as these are almost always decayed, and often of deleterious quality, they are better left out, and indeed the bay-leaves deserve the same prohibition. _Obs._ Here is a savoury and substantial meal, almost as cheap as the egg-broth of the miser, who fed his valet with the water in which his egg was boiled, or as the "_Potage à la Pierre, à la Soldat_,"[313-+] mentioned by Giles Rose, in the 4th page of his dedication of the "perfect school of instruction for the officers of the mouth," 18mo. London, 1682. "Two soldiers were minded to have a soup; the first of them coming into a house, and asking for all things necessary for the making of one, was as soon told that he could have none of those things there, whereupon he went away; the other, coming in with a stone in his knapsack, asked only for a pot to boil his stone in, that he might make a dish of broth of it for his supper, which was quickly granted him; when the stone had boiled a little while, he asked for a small piece of meat or bacon, and a few herbs and roots, &c. just merely to give it a bit of a flavour; till, by little and little, he got all things requisite, and so made an excellent pottage of his stone." See _Obs._ to No. 493. _s._ _d._ Onions, pepper, allspice, and bay-leaves 0 3 11 pounds of beef 3 8 ------- Made eight quarts 3 11 _i. e._ sixpence per quart. _To pot Beef, Veal, Game, or Poultry, &c._--(No. 503.) Take three pounds of lean gravy beef, rub it well with an ounce of saltpetre, and then a handful of common salt; let it lie in salt for a couple of days, rubbing it well each day; then put it into an earthen pan or stone jar that will just hold it; cover it with the skin and fat that you cut off, and pour in half a pint of water; cover it close with paste, and set it in a very slow oven for about four hours; or prepare it as directed in No. 496. When it comes from the oven, drain the gravy from it into a basin; pick out the gristles and the skins; mince it fine; moisten it with a little of the gravy you poured from the meat, which is a very strong consommé (but rather salt), and it will make excellent pease soup, or browning (see No. 322); pound the meat patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with some fresh butter,[314-*] till it is a fine paste (to make potted meat smooth there is nothing equal to plenty of elbow-grease); seasoning it (by degrees, as you are beating it,) with a little black pepper and allspice, or cloves pounded, or mace, or grated nutmeg. Put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, and cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter; to prepare which, see receipt No. 259, and if you wish to preserve it a long time, over that tie a bladder. Keep it in a dry place. _Obs._ You may mince a little ham or bacon, or an anchovy, sweet or savoury herbs, or an eschalot, and a little tarragon, chervil, or burnet, &c., and pound them with the meat, with a glass of wine, or some mustard, or forcemeat (No. 376, or Nos. 378 and 399*, &c.); if you wish to have it devilish savoury, add ragoût powder (No. 457), curry powder (No. 455), or zest (No. 255), and moisten it with mushroom catchup (No. 439), or essence of anchovy (No. 433), or tincture of allspice (No. 413), or essence of turtle (No. 343*), or, (No. 503*). It is a very agreeable and economical way of using the remains of game or poultry, or a large joint of either roasted or boiled beef, veal, ham, or tongue, &c. to mince it with some of the fat, (or moisten it with a little butter, or No. 439, &c.) and beat it in a mortar with the seasoning, &c., as in the former receipt. When either the teeth or stomach are extremely feeble, especial care must be taken to keep meat till it is tender before it is cooked; or call in the aid of those excellent helps to bad teeth, the pestle and mortar. And see Nos. 10, 18, 87, 89, 175, 178; from 185 to 250, 502, 542, and especially 503. Or dress in the usual way whatever is best liked, mince it, put it into a mortar, and pound it with a little broth or melted butter, vegetable, herb, spice, zest (No. 255), &c. according to the taste, &c. of the eater. The business of the stomach is thus very materially facilitated. "Flesh in small quantities, bruised to a pulp, may be very advantageously used in fevers attended with debility."--DARWIN'S _Zoonomia_, vol. ii. p. 400. "Mincing or pounding meat saveth the grinding of the teeth; and therefore (no doubt) is more nourishing, especially in age, or to them that have weak teeth; but butter is not proper for weak bodies, and therefore moisten it in pounding with a little claret wine, and a very little cinnamon or nutmeg."--Lord BACON; _Natural History_, Century 1. 54. _Obs._--Meat that has been boiled down for gravies, &c. see Nos. 185 and 252, (which has heretofore been considered the perquisite of the cat) and is completely drained of all its succulence, beat in a mortar with salt and a little ground black pepper and allspice, as directed in the foregoing receipt, and it will make as good potted beef as meat that has been baked till its moisture is entirely extracted, which it must be, or it will not keep two days. MEM.--Meat that has not been previously salted, will not keep so long as that which has. _Sandwiches_,--(No. 504.) Properly prepared, are an elegant and convenient luncheon or supper, but have got out of fashion, from the bad manner in which they are commonly made: to cut the bread neatly with a sharp knife seems to be considered the only essential, and the lining is composed of any offal odds and ends, that cannot be sent to table in any other form. Whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from every bit of skin, gristle, &c. and nothing introduced but what you are absolutely certain will be acceptable to the mouth. MATERIALS FOR MAKING SANDWICHES. Cold meat, or poultry. Potted ditto (No. 503). Savoury ditto (No. 496). Potted lobster (No. 178), or shrimp (No. 175). Potted cheese (No. 542). Ditto, or grated tongue. Potted, or grated ham (No. 509). Anchovy (Nos. 434 and 435). German sausage Cold pork ditto (No. 87). Hard eggs, pounded with a little butter and cheese. Grated ham, or beef. Various forcemeats, &c. (No. 373), &c. Curry-powder, zest, mustard, pepper, and salt are added occasionally. _Meat Cakes._--(No. 504*.) If you have any cold meat, game, or poultry (if under-done, all the better), mince it fine, with a little fat bacon or ham, or an anchovy; season it with a little pepper and salt; mix well, and make it into small cakes three inches long, half as wide, and half an inch thick: fry these a light brown, and serve them with good gravy, or put it into a mould and boil or bake it. N.B. Bread-crumbs, hard yelks of eggs, onions, sweet herbs, savoury spices, zest, or curry-powder, or any of the forcemeats. See Nos. 373 to 382. Fish cakes for maigre days, may be made in like manner. _Bubble and Squeak, or fried Beef or Mutton and Cabbage._--(No. 505.) "When 'midst the frying pan, in accents savage, The beef, so surly, quarrels with the cabbage." For this, as for a hash, select those parts of the joint that have been least done; it is generally made with slices of cold boiled salted-beef, sprinkled with a little pepper, and just lightly browned with a bit of butter in a frying-pan: if it is fried too much it will be hard. Boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small; take the beef out of the frying-pan, and lay the cabbage in it; sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it; keep the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes; lay the cabbage in the middle of a dish, and the meat round it. For sauce, see No. 356, or No. 328. _Hashed Beef, and roast Beef bones boiled._--(No. 506.) To hash beef, see receipt, Nos. 484, 5, 6, and Nos. 360, 484, and 486. The best part to hash is the fillet or inside of the sirloin, and the good housewife will always endeavour to preserve it entire for this purpose. See _Obs._ to No. 19, and mock hare, No. 66*. Roast beef bones furnish a very relishing luncheon or supper, prepared in the following manner, with poached eggs (No. 546), or fried eggs (No. 545), or mashed potatoes (No. 106), as accompaniments. Divide the bones, leaving good pickings of meat on each; score them in squares, pour a little melted butter on them, and sprinkle them with pepper and salt: put them in a dish; set them in a Dutch oven for half or three quarters of an hour, according to the thickness of the meat; keep turning them till they are quite hot and brown; or broil them on the gridiron. Brown them, but don't burn them black. For sauce, Nos. 355, or 356. _Ox-Cheek stewed._--(No. 507.) Prepare this the day before it is to be eaten; clean it, and put it into soft water just warm; let it lie three or four hours, then put it into cold water, and let it soak all night; next day wipe it clean, put it into a stew-pan, and just cover it with water; skim it well when it is coming to a boil, then put two whole onions, stick two or three cloves into each, three turnips quartered, a couple of carrots sliced, two bay-leaves, and twenty-four corns of allspice, a head of celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper, and salt; to these, those who are for a "haut goût" may add Cayenne and garlic, in such proportions as the palate that requires them may desire. Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, _i. e._ about three hours; then take out the cheek, divide it into handsome pieces, fit to help at table; skim, and strain the gravy; melt an ounce and a half of butter in a stew-pan; stir into it as much flour as it will take up; mix with it by degrees a pint and a half of the gravy; add to it a table-spoonful of basil, tarragon, or elder vinegar, or the like quantity of mushroom or walnut catchup, or cavice, or port wine, and give it a boil. Serve up in a soup or ragoût-dish; or make it into barley broth, No. 204. _Obs._--This is a very economical, nourishing, and savoury meal. See ox-cheek soup, No. 239, and calf's head hashed, No. 520. _Ox-Tails stewed._--(No. 508.) Divide them into joints; wash them; parboil them; set them on to stew in just water enough to cover them,--and dress them in the same manner as we have directed in No. 531, Stewed Giblets, for which they are an excellent substitute. N.B.--See Ox-Tail Soup, No. 240. _Potted Ham, or Tongue._--(No. 509.) Cut a pound of the lean of cold boiled Ham or Tongue, and pound it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of the fat, or with fresh butter (in the proportion of about two ounces to a pound), till it is a fine paste (some season it by degrees with a little pounded mace or allspice): put it close down in pots for that purpose, and cover it with Clarified Butter, No. 259, a quarter of an inch thick; let it stand one night in a cool place. Send it up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices. See _Obs._ on No. 503. _Hashed Veal._--(No. 511.) Prepare it as directed in No. 484; and to make sauce to warm Veal, see No. 361. _Hashed or minced Veal._--(No. 511*.) To make a hash[318-*] cut the meat into slices;--to prepare minced veal, mince it as fine as possible (do not chop it); put it into a stew-pan with a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton broth, or make some with the bones and trimmings, as ordered for veal cutlets (see No. 80, or No. 361), a little lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or cream; thicken with butter and flour, and season it with salt, a table-spoonful of lemon pickle, or Basil wine, No. 397, &c., or a pinch of curry powder. *.* If you have no cream, beat up the yelks of a couple of eggs with a little milk: line the dish with sippets of lightly toasted bread. _Obs._--Minced veal makes a very pretty dish put into scollop shells, and bread crumbed over, and sprinkled with a little butter, and browned in a Dutch oven, or a cheese-toaster. _To make an excellent Ragoût of Cold Veal._--(No. 512.) Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal, will furnish this excellent ragoût with a very little expense or trouble. Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece of butter or clean dripping into a frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown: take it out, and if you have no gravy ready, make some as directed in the note to No. 517; or put a pint of boiling water into the frying-pan, give it a boil up for a minute, and strain it into a basin while you make some thickening in the following manner: put about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it melts, mix with it as much flour as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the frying-pan; let them simmer together for ten minutes (till thoroughly incorporated); season it with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroom catchup or wine; strain it through a tamis to the meat, and stew very gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready-boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and put it in to warm with the meat, or No. 526 or 527. Veal cutlets, see No. 90, &c. _Breast of Veal stewed._--(No. 515.) A breast of veal stewed till quite tender, and smothered with onion sauce, is an excellent dish; or in the gravy ordered in the note to No. 517. _Breast of Veal Ragoût._--(No. 517.) Take off the under bone, and cut the breast in half lengthways; divide it into pieces, about four inches long, by two inches wide, _i. e._ in handsome pieces, not too large to help at once: put about two ounces of butter into a frying-pan, and fry the veal till it is a light brown,[320-*] then put it into a stew-pan with veal broth, or as much boiling water as will cover it, a bundle of sweet marjoram, common or lemon-thyme, and parsley, with four cloves, or a couple of blades of pounded mace, three young onions, or one old one, a roll of lemon-peel, a dozen corns of allspice bruised, and a tea-spoonful of salt; cover it close, and let it all simmer very gently till the veal is tender, _i. e._ for about an hour and a half, if it is very thick, two hours; then strain off as much (about a quart) of the gravy, as you think you will want, into a basin; set the stew-pan, with the meat, &c. in it by the fire to keep hot. To thicken the gravy you have taken out, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take; add the gravy by degrees; season it with salt; let it boil ten minutes; skim it well, and season it with two table-spoonfuls of white wine, one of mushroom catchup, and same of lemon-juice; give it a boil up, and it is ready: now put the veal into a ragoût dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve to it. _Or_, By keeping the meat whole, you will better preserve the succulence of it. Put the veal into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter and two whole onions (such as weigh about two ounces each); put it on the fire, and fry it about five minutes; then cover it with boiling water; when it boils, skim it; then put in two small blades of mace, a dozen blades of allspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half; then strain as much of the gravy as you think you will want into a basin; put the stew-pan by the fire to keep hot. To thicken it, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan: when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take; add the gravy by degrees; season it with salt, and when it boils it is ready. Put the veal on a dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve over it. _Obs._--Forcemeat balls, see No. 375, &c.; truffles, morells, mushrooms, and curry powder, &c. are sometimes added; and rashers of bacon or ham, Nos. 526 and 527, or fried pork sausages, No. 83. N.B. These are nice dishes in the pease season. _Scotch Collops._--(No. 517*.) The veal must be cut the same as for cutlets, in pieces about as big as a crown-piece; flour them well, and fry them of a light brown in fresh butter; lay them in a stew-pan; dredge them over with flour, and then put in as much boiling water as will well cover the veal; pour this in by degrees, shaking the stew-pan, and set it on the fire; when it comes to a boil, take off the scum, put in one onion, a blade of mace, and let it simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour; lay them on a dish, and pour the gravy through a sieve over them. N.B. Lemon-juice and peel, wine, catchup, &c., are sometimes added; add curry powder, No. 455, and you have curry collops. _Veal Olives._--(No. 518.) Cut half a dozen slices off a fillet of veal, half an inch thick, and as long and square as you can; flat them with a chopper, and rub them over with an egg that has been beat on a plate; cut some fat bacon as thin as possible, the same size as the veal; lay it on the veal, and rub it with a little of the egg; make a little veal forcemeat, see receipt, No. 375, and spread it very thin over the bacon; roll up the olives tight, rub them with the egg, and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs; put them on a lark-spit, and roast them at a brisk fire: they will take three quarters of an hour. Rump-steaks are sometimes dressed this way. Mushroom sauce, brown (Nos. 305 or 306), or beef gravy (No. 329). Vide chapter on sauces, &c. _Cold Calf's Head hashed._--(No. 519.) See _Obs._ to boiled calf's head, No. 10. _Calf's Head hashed, or Ragoût._--(No. 520.) See No. 247. Wash a calf's head, which, to make this dish in the best style, should have the skin on, and boil it, see No. 10; boil one half all but enough, so that it may be soon quite done when put into the hash to warm, the other quite tender: from this half take out the bones: score it superficially; beat up an egg; put it over the head with a paste-brush, and strew over it a little grated bread and lemon-peel, and thyme and parsley, chopped very fine, or in powder, then bread-crumbs, and put it in the Dutch oven to brown. Cut the other half-head into handsome slices, and put it into a stew-pan with a quart of gravy (No. 329), or turtle sauce (No. 343), with forcemeat balls (Nos. 376, 380), egg-balls, a wine-glass of white wine, and some catchup, &c.; put in the meat; let it warm together, and skim off the fat. Peel the tongue, and send it up with the brains round it as a side dish, as directed in No. 10; or beat them up in a basin with a spoonful of flour, two eggs, some grated lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, and a few leaves of very finely-minced sage; rub them well together in a mortar, with pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg; fry them (in little cakes) a very light brown; dish up the hash with the half-head you browned in the middle; and garnish with crisp, or curled rashers of bacon, fried bread sippets (Nos. 319, 526, and 527), and the brain cakes. N.B. It is by far the best way to make a side dish of the tongue and brains, if you do send up a piece of bacon as a companion for it, or garnish the tongue and brains with the rashers of bacon and the forcemeat balls, both of which are much better kept dry than when immersed in the gravy of the ragoût. _Obs._--In order to make what common cooks, who merely cook for the eye, call a fine, large, handsome dishful, they put in not only the eatable parts, but all the knots of gristle, and lumps of fat, offal, &c.; and when the grand gourmand fancies he is helped as plentifully as he could wish, he often finds one solitary morsel of meat among a large lot of lumps of gristle, fat, &c. We have seen a very elegant dish of the scalp only, sent to table rolled up; it looks like a sucking pig. _Veal Cutlets broiled plain, or full-dressed._--(No. 521.) Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets, one rib to each; broil them plain, or make some fine bread-crumbs; mince a little parsley, and a very little eschalot, as small as possible; put it into a clean stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, and fry it for a minute; then put on a plate the yelks of a couple of eggs; mix the herbs, &c. with it, and season it with pepper and salt: dip the cutlets into this mixture, and then into the bread; lay them on a gridiron over a clear slow fire, till they are nicely browned on both sides; they will take about an hour: send up with them a few slices of ham or bacon fried, or done in the Dutch oven. See Nos. 526 and 527, and half a pint of No. 343, or No. 356. _Knuckle of Veal, to ragoût._--(No. 522.) Cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an inch thick; pepper, salt, and flour them; fry them a light brown; put the trimmings into a stew-pan, with the bone broke in several places; an onion sliced, a head of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades of bruised mace: pour in warm water enough to cover them about an inch; cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for a couple of hours; strain it, and then thicken it with flour and butter; put in a spoonful of catchup, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon; give it a boil up, and strain into a clean stew-pan; put in the meat, make it hot, and serve up. _Obs._--If celery is not to be had, use a carrot instead or flavour it with celery-seed, or No. 409. _Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rice._--(No. 523.) As boiled knuckle of veal cold is not a very favourite relish with the generality, cut off some steaks from it, which you may dress as in the foregoing receipt, or No. 521, and leave the knuckle no larger than will be eaten the day it is dressed. Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, and put it in a large stew-pan with two quarts of water, an onion, two blades of mace, and a tea-spoonful of salt: set it on a quick fire; when it boils, take off all the scum. Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice; put it into the stew-pan with the meat, and let it stew very gently for about two hours: put the meat, &c. in a deep dish, and the rice round it. Send up bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely minced parsley and butter, No. 261. MR. GAY'S _Receipt to stew a Knuckle of Veal._--(No. 524.) Take a knuckle of veal; You may buy it or steal; In a few pieces cut it, In a stewing-pan put it; Salt, pepper, and mace, Must season this knuckle, Then, what's joined to a place[323-*] With other herbs muckle; That which kill'd King Will,[324-*] And what never stands still[324-+] Some sprigs of that bed,[324-++] Where children are bred. Which much you will mend, if Both spinach and endive, And lettuce and beet, With marigold meet. Put no water at all, For it maketh things small, Which lest it should happen, A close cover clap on; Put this pot of Wood's metal[324-§] In a boiling hot kettle; And there let it be, (Mark the doctrine I teach,) About, let me see, Thrice as long as you preach.[324-||] So skimming the fat off, Say grace with your hat off, O! then with what rapture Will it fill Dean and Chapter! _Slices of Ham or Bacon._--(No. 526.) Ham, or bacon, may be fried, or broiled on a gridiron over a clear fire, or toasted with a fork: take care to slice it of the same thickness in every part. If you wish it curled, cut it in slices about two inches long (if longer, the outside will be done too much before the inside is done enough); roll it up, and put a little wooden skewer through it: put it in a cheese-toaster, or Dutch oven, for eight or ten minutes, turning it as it gets crisp. This is considered the handsomest way of dressing bacon; but we like it best uncurled, because it is crisper, and more equally done. _Obs._--Slices of ham or bacon should not be more than half a quarter of an inch thick, and will eat much more mellow if soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before they are broiled, &c. _Relishing Rashers of Bacon._--(No. 527.) If you have any cold bacon, you may make a very nice dish of it by cutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick; grate some crust of bread, as directed for ham (see No. 14), and powder them well with it on both sides; lay the rashers in a cheese-toaster, they will be browned on one side in about three minutes, turn them and do the other. _Obs._--These are a delicious accompaniment to poached or fried Eggs: the bacon having been boiled[325-*] first, is tender and mellow. They are an excellent garnish round veal cutlets, or sweet-breads, or calf's-head hash, or green pease, or beans, &c. _Hashed Venison._--(No. 528.) If you have enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable to any to warm it up in: if not, take some of the mutton gravy (No. 347), or the bones and trimmings of the joint (after you have cut off all the handsome slices you can to make the hash); put these into some water, and stew them gently for an hour; then put some butter into a stew-pan; when melted, put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter, and stir it well together; add to it by degrees the gravy you have been making of the trimmings, and some red currant jelly; give it a boil up; skim it; strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive the venison: put it in, and let it just get warm: if you let it boil, it will make the meat hard. _Hashed Hare._--(No. 529.) Cut up the hare into pieces fit to help at table, and divide the joints of the legs and shoulders, and set them by ready. Put the trimmings and gravy you have left, with half a pint of water (there should be a pint of liquor), and a table-spoonful of currant jelly, into a clean stew-pan, and let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour: then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and pour it back into the stew-pan; now flour the hare, put it into the gravy, and let it simmer very gently till the hare is warm (about twenty minutes); cut the stuffing into slices, and put it into the hash to get warm, about five minutes before you serve it; divide the head, and lay one half on each side the dish. For hare soup, see No. 241, mock hare, No. 66.* _Jugged Hare._--(No. 529*.) Wash it very nicely; cut it up into pieces proper to help at table, and put them into a jugging-pot, or into a stone jar,[325-+] just sufficiently large to hold it well; put in some sweet herbs, a roll or two of rind of a lemon, or a Seville orange, and a fine large onion with five cloves stuck in it,--and if you wish to preserve the flavour of the hare, a quarter of a pint of water; if you are for a _ragoût_, a quarter of a pint of claret, or port wine, and the juice of a Seville orange, or lemon: tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no steam can escape; put a little hay in the bottom of the saucepan, in which place the jar, and pour in water till it reaches within four inches of the top of the jar; let the water boil for about three hours, according to the age and size of the hare (take care it is not over-done, which is the general fault in all made dishes, especially this), keeping it boiling all the time, and fill up the pot as it boils away. When quite tender, strain off the gravy clear from fat; thicken it with flour, and give it a boil up: lay the hare in a soup-dish, and pour the gravy to it. _Obs._--You may make a pudding the same as for roast hare (see No. 397), and boil it in a cloth; and when you dish up your hare, cut it in slices, or make forcemeat balls of it, for garnish. For sauce, No. 346. _Or_, A much easier and quicker, and more certain way of proceeding, is the following: Prepare the hare the same as for jugging; put it into a stew-pan with a few sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, the same of allspice and black pepper, two large onions, and a roll of lemon-peel: cover it with water; when it boils, skim it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender (about two hours); then take it up with a slice, and set it by the fire to keep hot while you thicken the gravy; take three ounces of butter, and some flour; rub together; put in the gravy; stir it well, and let it boil about ten minutes; strain it through a sieve over the hare, and it is ready. _Dressed Ducks, or Geese hashed._--(No. 530.) Cut an onion into small dice; put it into a stew-pan with a bit of butter; fry it, but do not let it get any colour; put as much boiling water into the stew-pan as will make sauce for the hash; thicken it with a little flour; cut up the duck, and put it into the sauce to warm; do not let it boil; season it with pepper and salt, and catchup. N.B. The legs of geese, &c. broiled, and laid on a bed of apple sauce, are sent up for luncheon or supper. _Or_, Divide the duck into joints; lay it by ready; put the trimmings and stuffing into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth or water; let it boil half an hour, and then rub it through a sieve; put half an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as it melts, mix a table-spoonful of flour with it; stir it over the fire a few minutes, then mix the gravy with it by degrees; as soon as it boils, take off the scum, and strain through a sieve into a stew-pan; put in the duck, and let it stew very gently for ten or fifteen minutes, if the duck is rather under-roasted: if there is any fat, skim it off: line the dish you serve it up in with sippets of bread either fried or toasted. _Ragoûts of Poultry, Game, Pigeons, Rabbits, &c._--(No. 530*.) Half roast it, then stew it whole, or divide it into joints and pieces proper to help at table, and put it into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth, or as much water, with any trimmings or parings of meat you have, one large onion with cloves stuck in it, twelve berries of allspice, the same of black pepper, and a roll of lemon-peel; when it boils, skim it very clean; let it simmer very gently for about an hour and a quarter, if a duck or fowl--longer if a larger bird; then strain off the liquor, and leave the ducks by the fire to keep hot; skim the fat off; put into a clean stew-pan two ounces of butter; when it is hot stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste; add the liquor by degrees; let it boil up; put in a glass of port wine, and a little lemon-juice, and simmer it ten minutes; put the ducks, &c. into the dish, and strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them. Garnish with sippets of toasted, or fried bread, No. 319. _Obs._--If the poultry is only half roasted, and stewed only till just nicely tender, this will be an acceptable _bonne bouche_ to those who are fond of made dishes. The flavour may be varied by adding catchup, curry powder, or any of the flavoured vinegars. This is an easily prepared side dish, especially when you have a large dinner to dress; and coming to table ready carved saves a deal of time and trouble; it is therefore an excellent way of serving poultry, &c. for a large party. _Or_, Roast or boil the poultry in the usual way; then cut it up, and pour over it a sufficient quantity of No. 305, or No. 329, or No. 364, or No. 2. _Stewed Giblets._--(No. 531.) Clean two sets of giblets (see receipt for giblet soup, No. 244); put them into a saucepan, just cover them with cold water, and set them on the fire; when they boil, take off the scum, and put in an onion, three cloves, or two blades of mace, a few berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of salt; cover the stew-pan close, and let it simmer very gently till the giblets are quite tender: this will take from one hour and a half to two and a half, according to the age of the giblets; the pinions will be done first, and must then be taken out, and put in again to warm when the gizzards are done: watch them that they do not get too much done: take them out and thicken the sauce with flour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or till there is just enough to eat with the giblets, and then strain it through a tamis into a clean stew-pan; cut the giblets into mouthfuls; put them into the sauce with the juice of half a lemon, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup; pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of bread at the bottom. _Obs._--Ox-tails prepared in the same way are excellent eating. _Hashed Poultry, Game, or Rabbit._--(No. 533.) Cut them into joints, put the trimmings into a stew-pan with a quart of the broth they were boiled in, and a large onion cut in four; let it boil half an hour; strain it through a sieve: then put two table-spoonfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it well by degrees with the hot broth; set it on the fire to boil up, then strain it through a fine sieve: wash out the stew-pan, lay the poultry in it, and pour the gravy on it (through a sieve); set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently (it must not boil) for fifteen minutes; five minutes before you serve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, and put it in to warm, then take it out, and lay it round the edge of the dish, and put the poultry in the middle; carefully skim the fat off the gravy, then shake it round well in the stew-pan, and pour it to the hash. N.B. You may garnish the dish with bread sippets lightly toasted. _Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken._--(No. 534.) Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey; take off the fillets from the breasts, and put them into a stew-pan with the rest of the white meat and wings, side-bones, and merry-thought, with a pint of broth, a large blade of mace pounded, an eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a lemon, and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a few grains of Cayenne; thicken it with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or three minutes, till the meat is warm. In the mean time score the legs and rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay them on, or round your pulled chicken. _Obs._--Three table-spoonfuls of good cream, or the yelks of as many eggs, will be a great improvement to it. _To dress Dressed Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or Rabbit._--(No. 535.) Cut them in quarters, beat up an egg or two (according to the quantity you dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt, some parsley minced fine, and a few crumbs of bread; mix these well together, and cover the fowl, &c. with this batter; broil them, or put them in a Dutch oven, or have ready some dripping hot in a pan, in which fry them a light brown colour; thicken a little gravy with some flour, put a large spoonful of catchup to it, lay the fry in a dish, and pour the sauce round it. You may garnish with slices of lemon and toasted bread. See No. 355. _Devil._--(No. 538.) The gizzard and rump, or legs, &c. of a dressed turkey, capon, or goose, or mutton or veal kidney, scored, peppered, salted, and broiled, sent up for a relish, being made very hot, has obtained the name of a "devil." _Obs._--This is sometimes surrounded with No. 356, or a sauce of thick melted butter or gravy, flavoured with catchup (No. 439), essence of anchovy, or No. 434, eschalot wine (No. 402), curry stuff. (No. 455, &c.) See turtle sauce (No. 343), or grill sauce (No. 355), which, as the palates of the present day are adjusted, will perhaps please _grands gourmands_ as well as "_véritable sauce d'Enfer_."--Vide _School for the Officers of the Mouth_, p. 368, 18mo. London, 1682. "Every man must have experienced, that when he has got deep into his third bottle, his palate acquires a degree of torpidity, and his stomach is seized with a certain craving, which seem to demand a stimulant to the powers of both. The provocatives used on such occasions, an ungrateful world has combined to term devils. "The _diables au feu d'enfer_, or dry devils, are usually composed of the broiled legs and gizzards of poultry, fish-bones, or biscuits; and, if pungency alone can justify their appellation, never was title better deserved, for they are usually prepared without any other intention than to make them 'hot as their native element,' and any one who can swallow them without tears in his eyes, need be under no apprehension of the pains of futurity. It is true, they answer the purpose of exciting thirst; but they excoriate the palate, vitiate its nicer powers of discrimination, and pall the relish for the high flavour of good wine: in short, no man should venture upon them whose throat is not paved with mosaic, unless they be seasoned by a cook who can poise the pepper-box with as even a hand as a judge should the scales of justice. "It would be an insult to the understanding of our readers, to suppose them ignorant of the usual mode of treating common devils; but we shall make no apology for giving the most minute instructions for the preparation of a gentler stimulant, which, besides, possesses this advantage--that it may be all done at the table, either by yourself, or at least under your own immediate inspection. "Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cayenne pepper, and curry powder, with double the quantity of powder of truffles: dissect, _secundum artem_, a brace of woodcocks rather under-roasted, split the heads, subdivide the wings, &c. &c. and powder the whole gently over with the mixture; crush the trail and brains along with the yelk of a hard-boiled egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated peel of half a lemon, and half a spoonful of soy, until the ingredients be brought to the consistence of a fine paste: then add a table-spoonful of catchup, a full wine-glass of Madeira, and the juice of two Seville oranges: throw this sauce, along with the birds, into a silver stew-dish, to be heated with spirits of wine: cover close up, light the lamp, and keep gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until the flesh has imbibed the greater part of the liquid. When you have reason to suppose it is completely saturated, pour in a small quantity of salad oil, stir all once more well together, 'put out the light, and then!'--serve it round instantly; for it is scarcely necessary to say, that a devil should not only be hot in itself, but eaten hot. "There is, however, one precaution to be used in eating it, to which we most earnestly recommend the most particular attention; and for want of which, more than one accident has occurred. It is not, as some people might suppose, to avoid eating too much of it (for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent); but it is this: in order to pick the bones, you must necessarily take some portion of it with your fingers; and, as they thereby become impregnated with its flavour, if you afterward chance to let them touch your tongue, you will infallibly lick them to the bone, if you do not swallow them entire."--See page 124, &c. of the entertaining "_Essays on Good Living_." _Crusts of Bread for Cheese, &c._--(No. 538.) It is not uncommon to see both in private families and at taverns a loaf entirely spoiled, by furious epicures paring off the crust to eat with cheese: to supply this, and to eat with soups, &c. pull lightly into small pieces the crumb of a new loaf; put them on a tin plate, or in a baking dish; set it in a tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp, and nicely browned, or do them in a Dutch oven. _Toast and Cheese._--(No. 539.) "Happy the man that has each fortune tried, To whom she much has giv'n, and much denied; With abstinence all delicates he sees, And can regale himself on toast and cheese." KING'S _Art of Cookery_. Cut a slice of bread about half an inch thick; pare off the crust, and toast it very slightly on one side so as just to brown it, without making it hard or burning it. Cut a slice of cheese (good fat mellow Cheshire cheese, or double Gloster, is better than poor, thin, single Gloster) a quarter of an inch thick, not so big as the bread by half an inch on each side: pare off the rind, cut out all the specks and rotten parts,[331-*] and lay it on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster; carefully watch it that it does not burn, and stir it with a spoon to prevent a pellicle forming on the surface. Have ready good mustard, pepper and salt. If you observe the directions here given, the cheese will eat mellow, and will be uniformly done, and the bread crisp and soft, and will well deserve its ancient appellation of a "rare bit." _Obs._--One would think nothing could be easier than to prepare a Welsh rabbit; yet, not only in private families, but at taverns, it is very seldom sent to table in perfection. We have attempted to account for this in the last paragraph of _Obs._ to No. 493. _Toasted Cheese_, No. 2.--(No. 540.) We have nothing to add to the directions given for toasting the cheese in the last receipt, except that in sending it up, it will save much time in portioning it out at table, if you have half a dozen small silver or tin pans to fit into the cheese-toaster, and do the cheese in these: each person may then be helped to a separate pan, and it will keep the cheese much hotter than the usual way of eating it on a cold plate. MEM. Send up with it as many cobblers[331-+] as you have pans of cheese. _Obs._--Ceremony seldom triumphs more completely over comfort than in the serving out of this dish; which, to be presented to the palate in perfection, it is imperatively indispensable that it be introduced to the mouth as soon as it appears on the table. _Buttered Toast and Cheese._--(No. 541.) Prepare a round of toast; butter it; grate over it good Cheshire cheese about half the thickness of the toast, and give it a brown. _Pounded Cheese._--(No. 542.) Cut a pound of good mellow Chedder, Cheshire, or North Wiltshire cheese into thin bits; add to it two, and if the cheese is dry, three ounces of fresh butter; pound, and rub them well together in a mortar till it is quite smooth. _Obs._--When cheese is dry, and for those whose digestion is feeble, this is the best way of eating it; and spread on bread, it makes an excellent luncheon or supper. N.B. The _piquance_ of this is sometimes increased by pounding with it curry powder (No. 455), ground spice, black pepper, cayenne, and a little made mustard; and some moisten it with a glass of sherry. If pressed down hard in a jar, and covered with clarified butter, it will keep for several days in cool weather. _Macaroni._--(No. 543.) _See Macaroni Pudding for the Boiling of it._ The usual mode of dressing it in this country is by adding a white sauce, and parmesan or Cheshire cheese, and burning it; but this makes a dish which is proverbially unwholesome: its bad qualities arise from the oiled and burnt cheese, and the half-dressed flour and butter put into the white sauce. Macaroni plain boiled, and some rich stock or portable soup added to it quite hot, will be found a delicious dish and very wholesome. Or, boil macaroni as directed in the receipt for the pudding, and serve it quite hot in a deep tureen, and let each guest add grated parmesan and cold butter, or oiled butter served hot, and it is excellent; this is the most common Italian mode of dressing it. Macaroni with cream, sugar, and cinnamon, or a little varicelli added to the cream, makes a very nice sweet dish. _English way of dressing Macaroni._ Put a quarter of a pound of riband macaroni into a stew-pan, with a pint of boiling milk, or broth, or water; let it boil gently till it is tender, this will take about a quarter of an hour; then put in an ounce of grated cheese, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it well together, and put it on a dish, and stew over it two ounces of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, and give it a light brown in a Dutch oven. Or put all the cheese into the macaroni, and put bread-crumbs over the top. Macaroni is very good put into a thick sauce with some shreds of dressed ham, or in a curry sauce. Riband macaroni is best for these dishes, and should not be done so much. _Macaroni Pudding._ One of the most excellent preparations of macaroni is the Timbale de Macaroni. Simmer half a pound of macaroni in plenty of water, and a table-spoonful of salt, till it is tender; but take care not to have it too soft; though tender, it should be firm, and the form entirely preserved, and no part beginning to melt (this caution will serve for the preparation of all macaroni). Strain the water from it; beat up five yelks and the white of two eggs; take half a pint of the best cream, and the breast of a fowl, and some thin slices of ham. Mince the breast of the fowl with the ham; add them with from two to three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated parmesan cheese, and season with pepper and salt. Mix all these with the macaroni, and put into a pudding-mould well buttered, and then let it steam in a stew-pan of boiling water for about an hour, and serve quite hot, with rich gravy (as in Omelette). See No. 543*. _Obs._--This, we have been informed, is considered by a grand gourmand as the most important recipe which was added to the collection of his cook during a gastronomic tour through Europe; it is not an uncommon mode of preparing macaroni on the continent. _Omelettes and various ways of dressing Eggs._--(No. 543*.) There is no dish which in this country may be considered as coming under the denomination of a made dish of the second order, which is so generally eaten, if good, as an omelette; and no one is so often badly dressed: it is a very faithful assistant in the construction of a dinner. When you are taken by surprise, and wish to make an appearance beyond what is provided for the every-day dinner, a little portable soup melted down, and some zest (No. 255), and a few vegetables, will make a good broth; a pot of the stewed veal of Morrison's, warmed up; an omelette; and some apple or lemon fritters, can all be got ready at ten minutes' notice, and with the original foundation of a leg of mutton, or a piece of beef, will make up a very good dinner when company unexpectedly arrives, in the country. The great merit of an omelette is, that it should not be greasy, burnt, nor too much done: if too much of the white of the eggs is left in, no art can prevent its being hard, if it is done: to dress the omelette, the fire should not be too hot, as it is an object to have the whole substance heated, without much browning the outside. One of the great errors in cooking an omelette is, that it is too thin; consequently, instead of feeling full and moist in the mouth, the substance presented is little better than a piece of fried leather: to get the omelette thick is one of the great objects. With respect to the flavours to be introduced, these are infinite; that which is most common, however, is the best, viz. finely chopped parsley, and chives or onions, or eschalots: however, one made of a mixture of tarragon, chervil, and parsley, is a very delicate variety, omitting or adding the onion or chives. Of the meat flavours, the veal kidney is the most delicate, and is the most admired by our neighbours the French: this should be cut in dice, and should be dressed (boiled) before it is added; in the same manner, ham and anchovies, shred small, or tongue, will make a very delicately flavoured dish. The objection to an omelette is, that it is too rich, which makes it advisable to eat but a small quantity. An addition of some finely mashed potatoes, about two table-spoonfuls, to an omelette of six eggs, will much lighten it. Omelettes are often served with rich gravy; but, as a general principle, no substance which has been fried should be served in gravy, but accompanied by it, or what ought to eat dry and crisp, becomes soddened and flat. In the compounding the gravy, great care should be taken that the flavour does not overcome that of the omelette, a thing too little attended to: a fine gravy, with a flavouring of sweet herbs and onions, we think the best; some add a few drops of tarragon vinegar; but this is to be done only with great care: gravies to Omelettes are in general thickened: this should never be done with flour; potato starch, or arrow root, is the best. Omelettes should be fried in a small frying-pan made for that purpose, with a small quantity of butter. The omelette's great merit is to be thick, so as not to taste of the outside; therefore use only half the number of whites that you do yelks of eggs: every care must be taken in frying, even at the risk of not having it quite set in the middle: an omelette, which has so much vogue abroad, is here, in general, a thin doubled-up piece of leather, and harder than soft leather sometimes. The fact is, that as much care must be bestowed on the frying, as should be taken in poaching an egg. A salamander is necessary to those who will have the top brown; but the kitchen shovel may be substituted for it. The following receipt is the basis of all omelettes, of which you may make an endless variety, by taking, instead of the parsley and eschalot, a portion of sweet herbs, or any of the articles enumerated in the table of materials used for making forcemeats, see No. 373; or any of the forcemeats between Nos. 373 and 386. Omelettes are called by the name of what is added to flavour them: a ham or tongue omelette; an anchovy, or veal kidney omelette, &c.: these are prepared exactly in the same way as in the first receipt, leaving out the parsley and eschalot, and mincing the ham or kidney very fine, &c., and adding that in the place of them, and then pour over them all sorts of thickened gravies, sauces, &c. _Receipt for the common Omelette._ Five or six eggs will make a good-sized omelette; break them into a basin, and beat them well with a fork; and add a salt-spoonful of salt; have ready chopped two drachms of onion, or three drachms of parsley, a good clove of eschalot minced very fine; beat it well up with the eggs; then take four ounces of fresh butter, and break half of it into little bits, and put it into the omelette, and the other half into a very clean frying-pan; when it is melted, pour in the omelette, and stir it with a spoon till it begins to set, then turn it up all round the edges, and when it is of a nice brown it is done: the safest way to take it out is to put a plate on the omelette, and turn the pan upside-down: serve it on a hot dish; it should never be done till just wanted. If maigre, grated cheese, shrimps, or oysters. If oysters, boil them four minutes, and take away the beard and gristly part; they may either be put in whole, or cut in bits. _Or_, Take eggs ready boiled hard, and either fry them whole, or cut them in half; when they are boiled (they will take five minutes), let them lie in cold water till you want to use them; then roll them lightly with your hand on a table, and they will peel without breaking; put them on a cloth to dry, and dredge them lightly with flour; beat two eggs in a basin, dip the eggs in, one at a time, and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs, or in duck (No. 378) or veal stuffing (No. 374); set them away ready for frying; fry them in hot oil or clarified butter, serve them up with mushroom sauce, or any other thickened sauce you please; crisp parsley is a pretty garnish. _Or_, Do not boil the eggs till wanted; boil them ten minutes, peel them as above, cut them in half, put them on a dish, and have ready a sauce made of two ounces of butter and flour well rubbed together on a plate, and put it in a stew-pan with three quarters of a pint of good milk; set it on the fire, and stir it till it boils; if it is not quite smooth, strain it through a sieve, chop some parsley and a clove of eschalot as fine as possible, and put in your sauce: season it with salt to your taste: a little mace and lemon-peel boiled with the sauce, will improve it: if you like it still richer, you may add a little cream, or the yelks of two eggs, beat up with two table-spoonfuls of milk, and stir it in the last thing: do not let it boil after; place the half eggs on a dish with the yelks upward, and pour the sauce over them. N.B. Any cold fish cut in pieces may be warmed in the above sauce for a sent dinner. _Or_, Slice very thin two onions weighing about two ounces each; put them into a stew-pan with three ounces of butter; keep them covered till they are just done; stir them every now and then, and when they are of a nice brown, stir in as much flour as will make them of a stiff paste; then by degrees add as much water or milk as will make it the thickness of good cream; season it with, pepper and salt to your taste; have ready boiled hard four or five eggs--you may either shred them, or cut them in halves or quarters; then put them in the sauce: when they are hot they are ready: garnish them with sippets of bread. Or, have ready a plain omelette, cut into bits, and put them into the sauce. Or, cut off a little bit of one end of the eggs, so that they may stand up; and take out the yelks whole of some of them, and cut the whites in half, or in quarters. _Obs._--This is called in the Parisian kitchen, "eggs à la trip, with a roux." _Marrow-Bones._--(No. 544.) Saw the bones even, so that they will stand steady; put a piece of paste into the ends: set them upright in a saucepan, and boil till they are done enough: a beef marrow-bone will require from an hour and a half to two hours; serve fresh-toasted bread with them. _Eggs fried with Bacon._--(No. 545.) Lay some slices of fine streaked bacon (not more than a quarter of an inch thick) in a clean dish, and toast them before the fire in a cheese-toaster, turning them when the upper side is browned; first ask those who are to eat the bacon, if they wish it much or little done, _i. e._ curled and crisped, see No. 526, or mellow and soft (No. 527): if the latter, parboil it first. Well-cleansed (see No. 83) dripping, or lard, or fresh butter, are the best fats for frying eggs. Be sure the frying-pan is quite clean; when the fat is hot, break two or three eggs into it; do not turn them, but, while they are frying, keep pouring some of the fat over them with a spoon; when the yelk just begins to look white, which it will in about a couple of minutes, they are done enough; the white must not lose its transparency, but the yelk be seen blushing through it: if they are done nicely, they will look as white and delicate as if they had been poached; take them up with a tin slice, drain the fat from them, trim them neatly, and send them up with the bacon round them. _Ragoût of Eggs and Bacon._--(No. 545*.) Boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes; throw them into cold water; peel them and cut them into halves; pound the yelks in a marble mortar, with about an equal quantity of the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, a little chopped parsley, an anchovy, an eschalot, a quarter of an ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little Cayenne, some bread-crumbs, and a very little beaten mace, or allspice; incorporate them well together, and fill the halves of the whites with this mixture; do them over with the yelk of an egg, and brown them in a Dutch oven, and serve them on relishing rashers of bacon or ham, see No. 527. For sauce, melted butter, flavoured to the fancy of the eaters, with mushroom catchup, anchovy, curry-powder (No. 455), or zest (No. 255). _To poach Eggs._--(No. 546.) The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, must endeavour to procure eggs that have been laid a couple of days--those that are quite new-laid are so milky that, take all the care you can, your cooking of them will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher; you must have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. The beauty of a poached egg is for the yelk to be seen blushing through the white, which should only be just sufficiently hardened, to form a transparent veil for the egg. Have some boiling water[337-*] in a tea-kettle; pass as much of it through a clean cloth as will half fill a stew-pan; break the egg into a cup, and when the water boils, remove the stew-pan from the stove, and gently slip the egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then put it over a very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the egg is ready; take it up with a slice, and neatly round off the ragged edges of the white; send them up on bread toasted on one side only,[338-*] with or without butter; or without a toast, garnished with streaked bacon (Nos. 526 or 527), nicely fried, or as done in No. 545, or slices of broiled beef or mutton (No. 487), anchovies (Nos. 434 and 435), pork sausages (No. 87), or spinage (No. 122). _Obs._--The bread should be a little larger than the egg, and about a quarter of an inch thick; only just give it a yellow colour: if you toast it brown, it will get a bitter flavour; or moisten it by pouring a little hot water upon it: some sprinkle it with a few drops of vinegar, or of essence of anchovy (No. 433). _To boil Eggs to eat in the Shell, or for Salads._--(No. 547.) The fresher laid the better: put them into boiling water; if you like the white just set,[338-+] about two minutes boiling is enough; a new-laid egg will take a little more; if you wish the yelk to be set, it will take three, and to boil it hard for a salad, ten minutes. See No. 372. _Obs._--A new-laid egg will require boiling longer than a stale one, by half a minute. Tin machines for boiling eggs on the breakfast table are sold by the ironmongers, which perform the process very regularly: in four minutes the white is just set. N.B. "Eggs may be preserved for twelve months, in a sweet and palatable state for eating in the shell, or using for salads, by boiling them for one minute; and when wanted for use let them be boiled in the usual manner: the white may be a little tougher than a new-laid egg, but the yelk will show no difference."--See HUNTER'S _Culina_, page 257. _Eggs poached with Sauce of minced Ham._--(No. 548.) Poach the eggs as before directed, and take two or three slices of boiled ham; mince it fine with a gherkin, a morsel of onion, a little parsley, and pepper and salt; stew all together a quarter of an hour; serve up your sauce about half boiling; put the eggs in a dish, squeeze over the juice of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and pour the sauce over them. _Fried Eggs and minced Ham or Bacon._--(No. 549.) Choose some very fine bacon streaked with a good deal of lean; cut this into very thin slices, and afterward into small square pieces; throw them into a stew-pan, and set it over a gentle fire, that they may lose some of their fat. When as much as will freely come is thus melted from them, lay them on a warm dish. Put into a stew-pan a ladle-full of melted bacon or lard; set it on a stove; put in about a dozen of the small pieces of bacon, then stoop the stew-pan and break in an egg. Manage this carefully, and the egg will presently be done: it will be very round, and the little dice of bacon will stick to it all over, so that it will make a very pretty appearance. Take care the yelks do not harden; when the egg is thus done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, and do the others. *.* They reckon 685 ways of dressing eggs in the French kitchen: we hope our half dozen receipts give sufficient variety for the English kitchen. _Tea._[339-*]--(No. 550.) "The Jesuit that came from China, A.D. 1664, told Mr. Waller, that to a drachm of tea they put a pint of water, and frequently take the yelks of two new-laid eggs, and beat them up with as much fine sugar as is sufficient for the tea, and stir all well together. He also informed him, that we let the hot water remain too long soaking upon the tea, which makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of the herb; the water must remain upon it no longer than while you can say the '_Miserere_' psalm very leisurely; you have then only the spiritual part of the tea, the proportion of which to the water must be about a drachm to a pint."--Sir KENELM DIGBY'S _Cookery_, London, 1669, page 176. _Obs._--The addition of an egg makes the "_Chinese Soup_," a more nutritious and substantial meal for a traveller. _Coffee._[340-*] Coffee, as used on the Continent, serves the double purpose of an agreeable tonic, and an exhilarating beverage, without the unpleasant effects of wine. Coffee, as drunk in England, debilitates the stomach, and produces a slight nausea. In France and in Italy it is made strong from the best coffee, and is poured out hot and transparent. In England it is usually made from bad coffee, served out tepid and muddy, and drowned in a deluge of water, and sometimes deserves the title given it in "the Petition against Coffee," 4to. 1674, page 4, "a base, black, thick, nasty, bitter, stinking puddle water." To make Coffee fit for use, you must employ the German filter,--pay at least 4_s._ the pound for it,--and take at least an ounce for two breakfast-cups. No coffee will bear drinking with what is called milk in London. London people should either take their coffee pure, or put a couple of tea-spoonfuls of cream to each cup. N.B. The above is a contribution from an intelligent traveller, who has passed some years on the Continent. _Suet Pudding, Wiggy's way._--(No. 551.) Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three table-spoonfuls; eggs, two; and a little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as possible, roll it with the rolling-pin so as to mix it well with the flour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix all together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put it into boiling water, and boil it an hour and a quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it, "when you have made your water boil, then put your pudding into your pot." _Yorkshire Pudding under roast Meat, the Gipsies' way._--(No. 552.) This pudding is an especially excellent accompaniment to a sir-loin of beef,--loin of veal,--or any fat and juicy joint. Six table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a pint of milk, so as to make a middling stiff batter, a little stiffer than you would for pancakes; beat it up well, and take care it is not lumpy; put a dish under the meat, and let the drippings drop into it till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter;--when the upper surface is brown and set, turn it, that both sides may be brown alike: if you wish it to cut firm, and the pudding an inch thick, it will take two hours at a good fire. N.B. The true Yorkshire pudding is about half an inch thick when done; but it is the fashion in London to make them full twice that thickness. _Plum Pudding._--(No. 553.) Suet, chopped fine, six ounces; Malaga raisins, stoned, six ounces; currants, nicely washed and picked, eight ounces; bread-crumbs, three ounces; flour, three ounces; eggs, three; sixth of a nutmeg; small blade of mace; same quantity of cinnamon, pounded as fine as possible; half a tea-spoonful of salt; half a pint of milk, or rather less; sugar, four ounces: to which may be added, candied lemon, one ounce; citron, half an ounce. Beat the eggs and spice well together; mix the milk with them by degrees, then the rest of the ingredients; dip a fine close linen cloth into boiling water, and put it in a hair-sieve; flour it a little, and tie it up close; put it into a saucepan containing six quarts of boiling water: keep a kettle of boiling water along side of it, and fill up your pot as it wastes; be sure to keep it boiling six hours at least. _My Pudding._--(No. 554.) Beat up the yelks and whites of three eggs; strain them through a sieve (to keep out the treddles), and gradually add to them about a quarter of a pint of milk,--stir these well together; rub together in a mortar two ounces of moist sugar, and as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence,--stir these into the eggs and milk; then put in four ounces of flour, and beat it into a smooth batter; by degrees stir into it seven ounces of suet (minced as fine as possible), and three ounces of bread-crumbs; mix all thoroughly together at least half an hour before you put the pudding into the pot; put it into an earthenware pudding-mould that you have well buttered; tie a pudding-cloth over it very tight; put it into boiling water, and boil it three hours. Put one good plum into it, and Moost-Aye says, you may then tell the economist that you have made a good plum pudding--without plums: this would be what schoolboys call "mile-stone pudding," _i. e._ "a mile between one plum and another." N.B. Half a pound of Muscatel raisins cut in half, and added to the above, will make a most admirable plum pudding: a little grated lemon-peel may be added. _Obs._--If the water ceases to boil, the pudding will become heavy, and be spoiled; if properly managed, this and the following will be as fine puddings of the kind as art can produce. Puddings are best when mixed an hour or two before they are boiled; the ingredients by that means amalgamate, and the whole becomes richer and fuller of flavour, especially if the various articles be thoroughly well stirred together. A table-spoonful of treacle will give it a rich brown colour. See pudding sauce, No. 269, and pudding catchup, No. 446. N.B. This pudding may be baked in an oven, or under meat, the same as Yorkshire pudding (No. 552); make it the same, only add half a pint of milk more: should it be above an inch and a quarter in thickness, it will take full two hours: it requires careful watching, for if the top gets burned, an empyreumatic flavour will pervade the whole of the pudding. Or, butter some tin mince-pie patty-pans, or saucers, and fill them with pudding, and set them in a Dutch oven; they will take about an hour. _Maigre Plum Pudding._ Simmer half a pint of milk with two blades of mace, and a roll of lemon-peel, for ten minutes; then strain it into a basin; set it away to get cold: in the mean time beat three eggs in a basin with three ounces of loaf-sugar, and the third of a nutmeg: then add three ounces of flour; beat it well together, and add the milk by degrees: then put in three ounces of fresh butter broken into small pieces, and three ounces of bread-crumbs; three ounces of currants washed and picked clean, three ounces of raisins stoned and chopped: stir it all well together. Butter a mould; put it in, and tie a cloth tight over it. Boil it two hours and a half. Serve it up with melted butter, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a little loaf-sugar. _A Fat Pudding._ Break five eggs in a basin; beat them up with a tea-spoonful of sugar and a table-spoonful of flour; beat it quite smooth; then put to it a pound of raisins, and a pound of suet; it must not be chopped very fine; butter a mould well; put in the pudding; tie a cloth over it tight, and boil it five hours. N.B. This is very rich, and is commonly called a marrow pudding. _Pease Pudding._--(No. 555.) Put a quart of split pease into a clean cloth; do not tie them up too close, but leave a little room for them to swell; put them on in cold water, to boil slowly till they are tender: if they are good pease they will be boiled enough in about two hours and a half; rub them through a sieve into a deep dish, adding[343-*] to them an egg or two, an ounce of butter, and some pepper and salt; beat them well together for about ten minutes, when these ingredients are well incorporated together; then flour the cloth well, put the pudding in, and tie it up as tight as possible, and boil it an hour longer. It is as good with boiled beef as it is with boiled pork; and why not with roasted pork? _Obs._--This is a very good accompaniment to cold pork or cold beef. N.B. Stir this pudding into two quarts of the liquor meat or poultry has been boiled in; give it a boil up, and in five minutes it will make excellent extempore pease soup, especially if the pudding has been boiled in the same pot as the meat (see No. 218, &c.) Season it with pease powder, No. 458. _Plain Bread Pudding._--(No. 556.) Make five ounces of bread-crumbs; put them in a basin; pour three quarters of a pint of boiling milk over them; put a plate over the top to keep in the steam; let it stand twenty minutes, then beat it up quite smooth with two ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg. Break four eggs on a plate, leaving out one white; beat them well, and add them to the pudding. Stir it all well together, and put it in a mould that has been well buttered and floured; tie a cloth over it, and boil it one hour. _Bread and butter Pudding._--(No. 557.) You must have a dish that will hold a quart: wash and pick two ounces of currants; strew a few at the bottom of the dish; cut about four layers of very thin bread and butter, and between each layer of bread and butter strew some currants; then break four eggs in a basin, leaving out one white; beat them well, and add four ounces of sugar and a drachm of nutmeg; stir it well together with a pint of new milk; pour it over about ten minutes before you put it in the oven; it will take three quarters of an hour to bake. _Pancakes and Fritters._--(No. 558.) Break three eggs in a basin; beat them up with a little nutmeg and salt; then put to them four ounces and a half of flour, and a little milk; beat it of a smooth batter; then add by degrees as much milk as will make it of the thickness of good cream: the frying-pan must be about the size of a pudding plate, and very clean, or they will stick; make it hot, and to each pancake put in a bit of butter about as big as a walnut: when it is melted, pour in the batter to cover the bottom of the pan; make them the thickness of half a crown; fry them of a light brown on both sides. The above will do for apple fritters, by adding one spoonful more of flour; peel your apples, and cut them in thick slices; take out the core, dip them in the batter, and fry them in hot lard; put them on a sieve to drain; dish them neatly, and grate some loaf-sugar over them. _Tansy Pancakes._ The batter for the preceding may be made into tansy pancakes by cutting fine a handful of young green tansy, and beating it into the batter. It gives the cakes a pleasant aromatic flavour, and an agreeable, mild bitter taste. A. No. 560 The following receipts are from Mr. Henry Osborne, cook to Sir Joseph Banks, the late president of the Royal Society: _Soho Square, April 20, 1820._ Sir,--I send you herewith the last part of the Cook's Oracle. I have attentively looked over each receipt, and hope they are now correct, and easy to be understood. If you think any need further explanation, Sir Joseph has desired me to wait on you again. I also send the receipts for my ten puddings, and my method of using spring fruit and gourds. I am, Sir, Your humble servant, HENRY OSBORNE. _Boston Apple Pudding._ Peel one dozen and a half of good apples; take out the cores, cut them small, put into a stew-pan that will just hold them, with a little water, a little cinnamon, two cloves, and the peel of a lemon; stew over a slow fire till quite soft, then sweeten with moist sugar, and pass it through a hair sieve; add to it the yelks of four eggs and one white, a quarter of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, the peel of a lemon grated, and the juice of one lemon: beat all well together; line the inside of a pie-dish with good puff paste; put in the pudding, and bake half an hour. _Spring Fruit Pudding._ Peel, and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb: put into a stew-pan with the pudding a lemon, a little cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as will make it quite sweet; set it over a fire, and reduce it to a marmalade; pass through a hair-sieve, and proceed as directed for the Boston pudding, leaving out the lemon-juice, as the rhubarb will be found sufficiently acid of itself. _Nottingham Pudding._ Peel six good apples; take out the core with the point of a small knife, or an apple corer, if you have one; but be sure to leave the apples whole; fill up where you took the core from with sugar; place them in a pie-dish, and pour over them a nice light batter, prepared as for batter pudding, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. _Butter Pudding._ Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat up well with a little milk, added by degrees till the batter is quite smooth; make it the thickness of cream; put into a buttered pie-dish, and bake three quarters of an hour; or into a buttered and floured basin, tied over tight with a cloth: boil one and a half hour, or two hours. _Newmarket Pudding._ Put on to boil a pint of good milk, with half a lemon-peel, a little cinnamon, and a bay-leaf; boil gently for five or ten minutes; sweeten with loaf sugar; break the yelks of five, and the whites of three eggs, into a basin; beat them well, and add the milk: beat all well together, and strain through a fine hair-sieve, or tamis: have some bread and butter cut very thin; lay a layer of it in a pie-dish, and then a layer of currants, and so on till the dish is nearly full; then pour the custard over it, and bake half an hour. _Newcastle, or Cabinet Pudding._ Butter a half melon mould, or quart basin, and stick all round with dried cherries, or fine raisins, and fill up with bread and butter, &c. as in the above; and steam it an hour and a half. _Vermicelli Pudding._ Boil a pint of milk, with lemon-peel and cinnamon; sweeten with loaf-sugar; strain through a sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli; boil ten minutes; then put in the yelks of five, and the whites of three eggs; mix well together, and steam it one hour and a quarter: the same may be baked half an hour. _Bread Pudding._ Make a pint of bread-crumbs; put them in a stew-pan with as much milk as will cover them, the peel of a lemon, a little nutmeg grated, and a small piece of cinnamon; boil about ten minutes; sweeten with powdered loaf-sugar; take out the cinnamon, and put in four eggs; beat all well together, and bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an hour. _Custard Pudding._ Boil a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of good cream; thicken with flour and water made perfectly smooth, till it is stiff enough to bear an egg on it; break in the yelks of five eggs; sweeten with powdered loaf-sugar; grate in a little nutmeg and the peel of a lemon: add half a glass of good brandy; then whip the whites of the five eggs till quite stiff, and mix gently all together: line a pie-dish with good puff paste, and bake half an hour. N.B. Ground rice, potato flour, panada, and all puddings made from powders, are, or may be, prepared in the same way. _Boiled Custards._ Put a quart of new milk into a stew-pan, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, a little grated nutmeg, a bay or laurel-leaf, and a small stick of cinnamon; set it over a quick fire, but be careful it does not boil over: when it boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer ten minutes; break the yelks of eight, and the whites of four eggs into a basin; beat them well; then pour in the milk a little at a time, stirring it as quick as possible to prevent the eggs curdling; set it on the fire again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon; let it have just one boil; pass it through a tamis, or fine sieve: when cold, add a little brandy, or white wine, as may be most agreeable to the eater's palate. Serve up in glasses, or cups. Custards for baking are prepared as above, passed through a fine sieve; put them into cups; grate a little nutmeg over each: bake them about 15 or 20 minutes. TO DRESS SPRING FRUIT. _Spring Fruit Soup._ Peel and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb; blanch it in water three or four minutes; drain it on a sieve, and put it into a stew-pan, with two onions sliced, a carrot, an ounce of lean ham, and a good bit of butter; let it stew gently over a slow fire till tender; then put in two quarts of good _consommé_, to which add two or three ounces of bread-crumbs; boil about fifteen minutes; skim off all the fat; season with salt and Cayenne pepper; pass it through a tamis, and serve up with fried bread. _Spring Fruit Pudding._ Clean as above three or four dozen sticks of rhubarb; put it in a stew-pan, with the peel of a lemon, a bit of cinnamon, two cloves, and as much moist sugar as will sweeten it; set it over a fire, and reduce it to a marmalade; pass it through a hair-sieve; then add the peel of a lemon, and half a nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of good butter, and the yelks of four eggs and one white, and mix all well together; line a pie-dish, that will just contain it, with good puff paste; put the mixture in, and bake it half an hour. _Spring Fruit--A Mock Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel, &c._ Make a marmalade of three dozen sticks of rhubarb, sweetened with moist sugar; pass it through a hair-sieve, and serve up in a sauce-boat. _Spring Fruit Tart._ Prepare rhubarb as above: cut it into small pieces into a tart-dish; sweeten with loaf-sugar pounded; cover it with a good short crust paste; sift a little sugar over the top, and bake half an hour in a rather hot oven: serve up cold. _Spring Cream, or mock Gooseberry Fool._ Prepare a marmalade as directed for the pudding: to which add a pint of good thick cream; serve up in glasses, or in a deep dish. If wanted in a shape, dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a little water; strain it through a tamis, and when nearly cold put it to the cream; pour it into a jelly mould, and when set, turn out into a dish, and serve up plain. _Spring Fruit Sherbet._ Boil six or eight sticks of rhubarb (quite clean) ten minutes in a quart of water; strain the liquor through a tamis into a jug, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, and two table-spoonfuls of clarified sugar; let it stand five or six hours, and it is fit to drink. _Gourds_ (now called _vegetable Marrow_) _stewed._ Take off all the skin of six or eight gourds, put them into a stew-pan, with water, salt, lemon-juice, and a bit of butter, or fat bacon, and let them stew gently till quite tender, and serve up with a rich Dutch sauce, or any other sauce you please that is _piquante_. _Gourd Soup_, Should be made of full-grown gourds, but not those that have hard skins; slice three or four, and put them in a stew-pan, with two or three onions, and a good bit of butter; set them over a slow fire till quite tender (be careful not to let them burn); then add two ounces of crust of bread, and two quarts of good _consommé_; season with salt and Cayenne pepper: boil ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour; skim off all the fat, and pass it through a tamis; then make it quite hot, and serve up with fried bread. _Fried Gourds._ Cut five or six gourds in quarters; take off the skin and pulp; stew them in the same manner as for table: when done, drain them quite dry; beat up an egg, and dip the gourds in it, and cover them well over with bread-crumbs; make some hog's-lard hot, and fry them a nice light colour; throw a little salt and pepper over them, and serve up quite dry. _Another Way._ Take six or eight small gourds, as near of a size as possible; slice them with a cucumber-slice; dry them in a cloth, and then fry them in very hot lard; throw over a little pepper and salt, and serve up on a napkin. Great attention is requisite to do these well; if the fat is quite hot they are done in a minute, and will soon spoil; if not hot enough, they will eat greasy and tough. _To make Beef, Mutton, or Veal Tea._--(No. 563.) Cut a pound of lean gravy meat into thin slices; put it into a quart and half a pint of cold water; set it over a very gentle fire, where it will become gradually warm; when the scum rises, let it continue simmering gently for about an hour; then strain it through a fine sieve or a napkin; let it stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the clear tea. N.B. An onion, and a few grains of black pepper, are sometimes added. If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, you may mince it and pound it as directed in No. 503, and make potted beef. To make half a pint of beef tea in five minutes for three halfpence, see No. 252. _Mutton Broth for the Sick._--(No. 564.) Have a pound and a half of a neck or loin of mutton; take off the skin and the fat, and put it into a saucepan; cover it with cold water, (it will take about a quart to a pound of meat,) let it simmer very gently, and skim it well; cover it up, and set it over a moderate fire, where it may stand gently stewing for about an hour; then strain it off. It should be allowed to become cold, when all the greasy particles will float on the surface, and becoming hard, can be easily taken off, and the settlings will remain at the bottom. See also Nos. 490 and 252. N.B. We direct the meat to be done no more than just sufficiently to be eaten; so a sick man may have plenty of good broth for nothing; as by this manner of producing it, the meat furnishes also a good family meal. _Obs._--This is an inoffensive nourishment for sick persons, and the only mutton broth that should be given to convalescents, whose constitutions require replenishing with restorative aliment of easy digestion. The common way of making it with roots, onions, sweet herbs, &c. &c. is too strong for weak stomachs. Plain broth will agree with a delicate stomach, when the least addition of other ingredients would immediately offend it. For the various ways of flavouring broth, see No. 527. Few know how much good may be done by such broth, taken in sufficient quantity at the beginning and decline of bowel complaints and fevers; half a pint taken at a time. See the last two pages of the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. _Barley Water._[350-*]--(No. 565.) Take a couple of ounces of pearl barley, wash it clean with cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling water, and let it boil for five minutes; pour off this water, and add to it two quarts of boiling water: boil it to two pints, and strain it. The above is simple barley water. To a quart of this is frequently added Two ounces of figs, sliced; The same of raisins, stoned; Half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised; And a pint of water. Boil it till it is reduced to a quart, and strain. _Obs._--These drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent fevers and inflammatory disorders, for which plenty of mild diluting liquor is one of the principal remedies: and if not suggested by the medical attendant, is frequently demanded by honest instinct, in terms too plain to be misunderstood: the stomach sympathizes with every fibre of the human frame, and no part of it can be distressed without in some degree offending the stomach: therefore it is of the utmost importance to sooth this grand organ, by rendering every thing we offer to it as elegant and agreeable as the nature of the case will admit of: the barley drink prepared according to the second receipt, will be received with pleasure by the most delicate palate. _Whey._--(No. 566.) Make a pint of milk boil; put to it a glass or two of white wine; put it on the fire till it just boils again; then set it on one side till the curd has settled; pour off the clear whey, and sweeten it as you like. Cider is often substituted for wine, or half the quantity of vinegar that we have ordered wine. _Obs._--When there is no fire in the sick room, this may be put hot into a bottle, and laid between the bed and mattress; it will keep warm several hours. _Toothache and anti-rheumatic Embrocation._--(No. 567.) In no branch of the practice of physic is there more dangerous quackery, than in the dental department. To all people the toothache is an intolerable torment; not even a philosopher can endure it patiently; what an overcoming agony then must it be to a grand gourmand! besides the mortification of being deprived of the means of enjoying that consolation which he looks to as the grand solace for all sublunary cares. When this affliction befalls him, we recommend the following specific for it;-- [Rx] Sal volatile, three parts. Laudanum, one part. Mix, and rub the part affected frequently, or if the tooth which aches be hollow, drop some of this on a bit of cotton, and put it into the tooth. For a general faceache, or sore throat, moisten a bit of flannel with it, and put it at night to the part affected. _Stomachic Tincture_--(No. 569.)--is Peruvian bark, bruised, one ounce and a half. Orange-peel, do. one ounce. Brandy, or proof spirit, one pint. Let these ingredients steep for ten days, shaking the bottle every day; let it remain quiet two days, and then decant the clear liquor. Dose--a tea-spoonful in a wineglass of water, twice a day, when you feel languid, _i. e._ when the stomach is empty, about an hour before dinner, and in the evening. This agreeable aromatic tonic is an effective help to concoction; and we are under personal obligations to it, for frequently restoring our stomach to good temper, and procuring us good appetite and good digestion. In low nervous affections arising from a languid circulation, and when the stomach is in a state of debility from age, intemperance, or other causes, this is a most acceptable restorative. N.B. Tea made with dried and bruised Seville orange-peel, in the same way as common tea, and drank with milk and sugar, has been taken by nervous and dyspeptic persons with great benefit. Sucking a bit of dried orange-peel about an hour before dinner, when the stomach is empty, is very grateful and strengthening to it. _Paregoric Elixir._--(No. 570.) A drachm of purified opium, same of flowers of benjamin, same of oil of aniseed, camphor, two scruples; steep all in a pint of brandy or proof spirit; let it stand ten days, occasionally shaking it up: strain. A tea-spoonful in half a pint of White wine whey (No. 562), tewahdiddle (No. 467), or gruel (No. 572), taken the last thing at night, is an agreeable and effectual medicine for coughs and colds. It is also excellent for children who have the hooping-cough, in doses of from five to twenty drops in a little water, or on a little bit of sugar. _Dr. Kitchiner's Receipt to make Gruel._--(No. 572.) Ask those who are to eat it, if they like it thick or thin; if the latter, mix well together by degrees, in a pint basin, one table-spoonful of oatmeal, with three of cold water; if the former, use two spoonfuls. Have ready in a stew-pan, a pint of boiling water or milk; pour this by degrees to the oatmeal you have mixed; return it into the stew-pan; set it on the fire, and let it boil for five minutes; stirring it all the time to prevent the oatmeal from burning at the bottom of the stew-pan; skim and strain it through a hair-sieve. 2d. To convert this into caudle, add a little ale, wine, or brandy, with sugar; and if the bowels are disordered, a little nutmeg or ginger, grated. _Obs._ Gruel may be made with broth (No. 490, or No. 252, or No. 564), instead of water; (to make _crowdie_, see No. 205*); and may be flavoured with sweet herbs, soup roots, and savoury spices, by boiling them for a few minutes in the water you are going to make the gruel with; or zest (No. 255), pease powder (No. 458), or dried mint, mushroom catchup (No. 409); or a few grains of curry powder (No. 455); or savoury ragoût powder (No. 457); or Cayenne (No. 404); or celery-seed bruised, or soup herb powder (No. 459); or an onion minced very fine and bruised in with the oatmeal; or a little eschalot wine (No. 402); or essence of celery (Nos. 409, 413, 417, or No. 420), &c. Plain gruel, such as is directed in the first part of this receipt, is one of the best breakfasts and suppers that we can recommend to the rational epicure; is the most comforting soother of an irritable stomach that we know; and particularly acceptable to it after a hard day's work of intemperate feasting: when the addition of half an ounce of butter, and a tea-spoonful of Epsom salt, will give it an aperient quality, which will assist the principal viscera to get rid of their burden. "Water gruel," says Tryon in his _Obs. on Health_, 16mo. 1688, p. 42, is "the king of spoon meats," and "the queen of soups," and gratifies nature beyond all others. In the "Art of Thriving," 1697, p. 8, are directions for preparing fourscore noble and wholesome dishes, upon most of which a man may live excellently well for two-pence a day; the author's Obs. on water gruel is, that "essence of oatmeal makes a noble and exhilarating meal!" Dr. Franklin's favourite breakfast was a good basin of warm gruel, in which there was a small slice of butter, with toasted bread and nutmeg; the expense of this he reckoned at three halfpence. _Scotch Burgoo._--(No. 572*.) "This humble dish of our northern brethren forms no contemptible article of food. It possesses the grand qualities of salubrity, pleasantness, and cheapness. It is, in fact, a sort of oatmeal hasty pudding without milk; much used by those patterns of combined industry, frugality, and temperance, the Scottish peasantry; and this, among other examples of the economical Scotch, is well worthy of being occasionally adopted by all who have large families and small incomes." It is made in the following easy and expeditious manner:-- "To a quart of oatmeal add gradually two quarts of water, so that the whole may smoothly mix: then stirring it continually over the fire, boil it together for a quarter of an hour; after which, take it up, and stir in a little salt and butter, with or without pepper. This quantity will serve a family of five or six persons for a moderate meal."--Oddy's Family Receipt Book, p. 204. _Anchovy Toast._--(No. 573.) Bone and wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar with a little fresh butter; rub them through a sieve, and spread them on a toast, see Nos. 434 and 435, and No. 355. _Obs._ You may add, while pounding the anchovies, a little made mustard and curry powder (No. 455) or a few grains of Cayenne, or a little mace or other spice. It may be made still more savoury, by frying the toast in clarified butter. _Deviled Biscuit_,--(No. 574.) Is the above composition spread on a biscuit warmed before the fire in a Dutch oven, with a sufficient quantity of salt and savoury spice (No. 457), zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455), or Cayenne pepper sprinkled over it. _Obs._ This _ne plus ultra_ of high spiced relishes, and No. 538, frequently make their appearance at tavern dinners, when the votaries of Bacchus are determined to vie with each other in sacrificing to the jolly god. FOOTNOTES: [300-*] This may be still longer preserved by the process directed in No. 252. [303-*] Hashes and meats dressed a second time, should only simmer gently till just warm through; it is supposed they have been done very nearly, if not quite enough, already; select those parts of the joint that have been least done. In making a hash from a leg of mutton, do not destroy the marrow-bone to help the gravy of your hash, to which it will make no perceptible addition; but saw it in two, twist writing-paper round the ends, and send it up on a plate as a side dish, garnished with sprigs of parsley: if it is a roast leg, preserve the end bone, and send it up between the marrow-bones. This is a very pretty luncheon, or supper dish. [303-+] See "_The Court and Kitchen of_ ELIZABETH, commonly called _Joan Cromwell_," 16mo. London, 1664, page 106. [304-*] The "_bain-marie_," or water-bath (see note to No. 529*), is the best utensil to warm up made dishes, and things that have been already sufficiently dressed, as it neither consumes the sauce, nor hardens the meat. If you have not a water-bath a Dutch oven will sometimes supply the place of it. "_Bain-marie_ is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put all your stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but it must not boil: the effect of this _bain-marie_ is to keep every thing warm without altering either the quantity or the quality, particularly the quality. When I had the honour of serving a nobleman, who kept a very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was consequently uncertain, I was in the habit of using _bain-marie_, as a certain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes. If you keep your sauce, or broth, or soup, by the fireside, the soup reduces, and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces. This is the best way of warming turtle, or mock turtle soup, as the thick part is always at the bottom, and this method prevents it from burning, and keeps it always good."--UDE'S _Cookery_, page 18. [306-*] Probably a contraction of "_haut ragoût_." [308-*] The proverb says, "_Of all the fowls of the air_, commend me to the shin of beef; for there's marrow for the master, meat for the mistress, gristles for the servants, and bones for the dogs." [309-*] The remotest parts of the world were visited, and earth, air, and ocean ransacked, to furnish the complicated delicacies of a Roman supper. "_Suidas_ tells us, that _Pityllus_, who had a _hot_ tongue and a _cold_ stomach, in order to gratify the latter without offending the former, made a sheath for his tongue, so that he could swallow his pottage scalding hot; yea, I myself have known a Shropshire gentleman of the like quality!!"--See Dr. MOFFAT _on Food_, 4to. 1655. "In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where the culinary arts are pushed to excess, luxury becomes false to itself, and things are valued, not as they are nutritious, or agreeable to the appetite, but in proportion as they are rare, out of season, or costly."--CADOGAN _on Gout_, 8vo. 1771, p. 48. [309-+] "Cookery is an art, appreciated by only a very few individuals, and which requires, in addition to a most studious and diligent application, no small share of intellect, and the strictest sobriety and punctuality."--Preface to UDE'S _Cookery_, p. 6. [310-*] This suet is not to be wasted: when it comes from the oven, take out the beef, and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve; let it stand till it is cold; then clarify the fat as directed in No. 83, and it will do for frying, &c. [312-*] If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, thicken it as in the above receipt, and just before you give it the last boil up, add to it a large spoonful of mushroom catchup, and, if you like, the same quantity of port wine. [313-*] "It must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, inaccessible to the ambient air, and on the even and persevering heat of charcoal in the furnace or stove. After having lulled itself in its own exudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliaries, it may appear at table with a powerful claim to approbation."--_Tabella Cibaria_, p. 47. [313-+] "'_C'est la soupe_,' says one of the best of proverbs, '_qui fait le soldat_.' 'It is the soup that makes the soldier.' Excellent as our troops are in the field, there cannot be a more unquestionable fact, than their immense inferiority to the French in the business of cookery. The English soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once on the coals, by which means the one and the better half is lost, and the other burned to a cinder. Whereas, six French troopers fling their messes into the same pot, and extract a delicious soup, ten times more nutritious than the simple _rôti_ could ever be."--BLACKWOOD'S _Edinburgh Magazine_, vol. vii. p. 668. [314-*] The less gravy or butter, and the more beating, the better will be your potted beef, if you wish it to keep: if for immediate eating, you may put in a larger proportion of gravy or butter, as the meat will pound easier and look and taste more mellow. [318-*] See receipt to hash mutton, Nos. 360 and 361, and No. 484. [320-*] Some cooks make the gravy, &c. in the following manner:--Slice a large onion; fry it brown; drain all fat from it, and put it into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of dozen berries of allspice, same of black pepper, three blades of mace, and a pint and a half of water; cover down close, and boil gently, for half an hour; then strain it through a sieve over the veal, and let it simmer gently for about three hours: about half an hour before it is done, mix two table-spoonfuls of flour in a tea-cupful of cold water; mix some of the gravy with it, and then put it into the stew-pan. N.B. Three pints of full-grown green pease are sometimes added when the veal is put in. [323-*] Vulgo, _salary_. [324-*] Supposed sorrel. [324-+] This is by Dr. BENTLEY thought to be time, or thyme. [324-++] Parsley. Vide CHAMBERLAYNE. [324-§] Of this composition, see the works of the copper-farthing dean. [324-||] Which we suppose to be near four hours. [325-*] To boil bacon, see No. 13. [325-+] Meat dressed by the heat of boiling water, without being immediately exposed to it, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more generally employed: it becomes delicately tender, without being over-done, and the whole of the nourishment and gravy is preserved. This, in chemical technicals, is called _balneum maris_, a water-bath; in culinary, _bain-marie_; which A. CHAPELLE, in his "_Modern Cook_," 8vo. page 25, London, 1744, translates "Mary's bath." See note to No. 485. MARY SMITH, in her "_Complete Housekeeper_," 1772, 8vo. pages 105 and 247, translates "_Sauce Robert_," ROE-BOAT-SAUCE; an "_omelette_," a HAMLET; and gives you a receipt how to make "_Soupe à la_ RAIN!" [331-*] Rotten cheese toasted is the _ne plus ultra_ of _haut goût_, and only eatable by the thorough-bred _gourmand_ in the most inverted state of his jaded appetite. [331-+] The nursery name for bread toasted on one side only. [337-*] Straining the water is an indispensable precaution, unless you use spring-water. [338-*] "A couple of poached eggs, with a few fine, dry, fried collops of pure bacon, are not bad for breakfast, or to begin a meal," says Sir KENELM DIGBY, M.D. in his _Closet of Cookery_, London, 1669, page 167. [338-+] "The lightest mode of preparing eggs for the table, is to boil them only as long as is necessary to coagulate slightly the greater part of the white, without depriving the yelk of its fluidity."--Dr. PEARSON'S _Mat. Alim._ 8vo. 1808, p. 36. [339-*] VARIOUS WAYS OF MAKING TEA. 1. "The _Japanese_ reduce their tea to a fine powder by pounding it; they put certain portions of this into a tea-cup, pour boiling water upon it, stir it up, and drink it as soon as it is cool enough." 2. "DUBUISSON'S MANNER OF MAKING TEA. "Put the tea into a kettle with cold water; cover it close, set it on the fire, and make it all but boil; when you see a sort of white scum on the surface, take it from the fire; when the leaves sink it is ready." 3. "The night before you wish to have tea ready for drinking, pour on it as much cold water as you wish to make tea; next morning pour off the clear liquor, and when you wish to drink it, make it warm." The above are from "_L'Art du Limonadier_" _de_ DUBUISSON, Paris, p. 267, 268. Or, 4. "A great saving may be made by making a tincture of tea, thus: pour boiling water upon it, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting into each cup no more than is necessary to fill it about one-third full: fill each cup up with hot water from an urn or kettle; thus the tea will be always hot and equally strong to the end, and one tea-spoonful will be found enough for three cups for each person: according to the present mode of making it, three times the quantity is often used."--See Dr. TRUSLER'S _Way to be Rich and Respectable_, 8vo. 1796, page 27. [Tea should only be made as an infusion,--that is, pouring boiling hot water upon it, and letting it stand a few minutes to draw. A.] [340-*] See Dr. Houghton on Coffee, in vol. xxi. of the _Phil. Trans._ page 311. [The best of coffee is imported into this country, and can be had cheap and good. A.] [343-*] To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, the economical housekeeper, who has a large family to feed, may now add two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. To many this mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone. See also No. 107. [350-*] Ground barley, or barley-meal, is sold in this city; with which barley-water gruel or a panada may be readily made, for the sick, or for soups. A. MARKETING TABLES, _Showing the seasons when_ MEAT, POULTRY, _and_ VEGETABLES, _are_ BEST _and_ CHEAPEST. MEAT. +-----------+-----------+------------------------------------------------+ |_Weight |_Weight | | | of Meat | of Bone | | | before | after | BEEF. | | it was | being | | | dressed._ | dressed._ | THE HIND QUARTER. | |-----------+-----------+ | |_lb._ _oz._|_lb._ _oz._| _per lb._ | | | 13 0 | 1 8 | 1. Sirloin 0 9 | Roasted (No. 19). | | 20 0 | 4 0 | 2. Rump 0 9 |{Steak to Broil (No. | | | | |{ 94), to Stew (Nos.| | | | |{ 500 and 501). | | 11 0 | 1 4 | 3. Edge-Bone 0 6 | Boiled (No. 8). | | 13 12 | 1 8 | 4. Buttock, or 0 7 |{Ditto (No. 7), or | | | | Round |{ Savoury Salted | | | | |{ Beef (No. 496). | | | | 5. Mouse ditto 0 6 |{For Alamode Beef | | | | |{ (No. 502). | | | | 6. Veiny Piece 0 7 |{Generally Baked or | | | | |{ Salted. | | 11 0 | 1 8 | 7. Thick Flank 0 6 | Salted. | | | | 8. Thin ditto 0 6-1/2| Ditto. | | | | 9. Leg 0 2-1/2|{Soup of (No. 193), | | | | |{ Stewed (No. 493) | | | | | | | | THE FORE QUARTER. | | | | | | | | _per lb._ | | | 14 4 | 1 12 |10. Fore Ribs, 0 9 |{Roasted (No. 20), | | | | 6 Ribs |{ Boned and Rolled | | | | |{ (No. 21). | | | |11. Middle do., 0 7 | Ditto. | | | | 3 do. | | | | |12. Chuck do., 0 5 | For making Gravy. | | | | 3 do. | | | | |13. Shoulder, or}0 6 | For Steaks or Soup. | | | | Leg of } | | | | | Mutton Piece} | | | | | |{For Stewing (No. | | | |14. Brisket 0 6 |{ 494), or Haricot | | | | |{ (No. 495),--or | | | | |{ Salted. | | | |15. Clod 0 4-1/2|{Principally used for| | | | |{ Beef Sausages. | | 8 4 | 0 10 |16. Neck, or } 0 3-1/2|{Ditto, or making | | | | Sticking } |{ Soup. | | | | Piece } | | | | | |{Excellent Scotch | | 9 0 | 2 4 |17. Shin 0 2-1/2|{ Barley Broth (No. | | | | |{ 204), and Stewed | | | | |{ (No. 493). | | | |18. The Head |{Soup of (No. 239), | | | | |{ Stewed, (No. 507);| | | | |{ and | | | | The Tail |{Do. (No. 240), do. | | | | |{ (No. 508.) | | | | The Heels |{Boiled (No. 18*), | | | | |{ Jelly of (No. | | | | |{ 198), Soup (No. | | | | |{ 240*). | | | | | | | | | | | | MUTTON. | | | | | |_lb._ _oz._|_lb._ _oz._| _per lb._ | | | 8 0 | 0 13 | 1. Leg } |{ Boiled (No. 1), or | | | | 2. Loin, best} |{ Roasted (No. 24). | | | | end } 0 8 |{ Do. (No. 1,) | | | | 3. Do., chump} |{ Roasted (No. 28), | | | | end } |{ Chops. | | | | |{ Do. (No. 2.) | | 6 0 | 0 8 | 4. Neck, best} 0 7 |{ Roasted (No. 29), | | | | end } |{ Irish Stew (No. | | | | |{ 488), Haricot (No.| | | | |{ 489), Stewed (No. | | | | |{ 490). | | | | 5. Do., scrag} |{To make Broth (No. | | | | end } 0 5 |{ 194). | | 8 4 | 1 0 | 6. Shoulder 0 7 | Roasted (No. 27). | | | | 7. Breast 0 5 |{Grilled (_Obs._ to | | | | |{No. 38). | | | | Head | Broth. | | | | The Chine, or} | | | | | the Saddle, } | | | | | two Loins, } |{Roasted (No. 31), | | | | The Haunch }0 8 |{ Venisonified (No. | | | | is a Leg, } |{ 32). | | | | and part of } | | | | | the Loin } | | | | | | | | | | | | | VEAL. | | | | | | | | _per lb._ | | | | | 1. Loin, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 35). | | | | end } | | | | | 2. Do., chump} 0 11 | Do. do. | | | | end } | | | | | |{Roasted (No. 34), to| | | | 3. Fillet 1 1 |{ make Veal Olives | | | | |{ (No. 518), Scotch | | | | |{ Collops (No. | | | | |{ 517*). | | | | 4. Knuckle, } 0 7 |{To Ragoût (No. | | | | Hind } |{ 522), to Stew (No.| | | | The whole} 0 10-1/2|{ 523), Soup of | | | | Leg } |{ (No. 193). | | 9 0 | 1 0 | 5. Neck, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 37). | | | | end } | | | 5 0 | 0 10 | 6. Do., scrag} 0 8 | Do. do. | | | | end } | | | | | The whole} 0 9-1/2| | | | | Neck } | | | | | 7. Blade Bone 0 10 | Roasted. | | | | |{Stewed (No. 515); to| | | | 8. Breast, best}0 11 |{ Ragoût (No. 517), | | | | end } |{ to Curry (No. | | | | |{ 497). | | | | 9. Do., brisket}0 10 |{Stewed (No. 515); to| | | | end } |{ Ragoût (No. 517). | | | |10. Knuckle,} 0 7 | Same as Hind | | | | Fore } | Knuckle. | | | | The head, |{Boiled, plain (No. | | | | with the skin |{ 10), to Hash (Nos.| | | | on |{ 10 and 520). | | | | Do., skinned | | | | | Cutlets |{Fried (No. 90), | | | | |{ Broiled (No. 521).| ------------+-----------+--------------------------+---------------------+ The Nos. refer to the receipts for dressing. In the foregoing table, we have given the proportions of _bone_ to _meat_,--the former not being weighed till cooked, by which, of course, its weight was considerably diminished. These proportions differ in almost every animal,--and from the different manner in which they are cut. Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the _dearest_ price. In fact, the best meat is the _cheapest_; and those who treat a tradesman liberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than those who are for ever bargaining for the market penny. In dividing the joints, there is always an opportunity of apportioning the bones, fat, flaps, &c., so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per pound in most pieces; and a butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife in favour of that customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the article he purchases:--have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to complain?--have they not invited such conduct? The _quality_ of butcher's meat, varies quite as much as the _price_ of it, according to its age, how it has been fed, and especially how it has been treated the week before it has been killed. The following statements were sent to us by a very respectable tradesman:-- Beef is _best_ and _cheapest_ from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The price, per pound, now varies from 4_d._ to 1_s._ Veal is _best_ from March to July. The price varies according to the season and the supply; and the quality differs so much, that the same joints now sell from 5_d_. to 11_d._ per pound. Mutton is _best_ from Christmas to Midsummer; the difference in price between the worst and the best, is now from 5_d._ to 9_d._ per pound. Grass lamb is _best_ from Easter to June; house lamb from Christmas to June. POULTRY. +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ | _Poultry._ |_Come into | _Continue._ | _Cheapest._ | | | Season._ | | | +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ | |{Spring chickens |To be had all the}| | |Chickens |{ April | year }| November. | |Poulards, with |March |Till June | December. | | eggs | | | | | |{Dearest in April,|To be had all the}| | |Fowls |{ May, and June | year }| November. | |Capons |{Largest at |Ditto |{October and | | | Christmas | |{November. | |Green Geese |March |Till September | do. | |Geese |September |---- February | do. | |Turkey poults |April |---- June | do. | |Turkeys |September |---- March | do. | |Ducklings |March |---- May | do. | |Ducks |June |---- February | do. | | | | |{December; | |Wild ducks |September |Till ditto |{but the flights| | | | |{are uncertain. | |Widgeons | | | | |Teal | | | | |Plovers | | | | |Larks |November |Till March | Ditto. | |Wheatears |July |And during August | | |Wild pigeons |March |Till September | August. | |Tame do. | | | | |Tame rabbits | |All the year | | |Wild do. |June |Till February | November. | |Sucking pigs | |All the year | | |Leverets |March |Till September | | |Hares |September | | | |Partridges |Do. | | | |Pheasants |October | | | |Grouse |August | | | |Moor game | |Till March | | |Woodcock snipes |November | | | +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ Cocks' combs, fat livers, eggs, &c. are _dearest_ in April and May, and _cheapest_ in August. Fowls' heads may be had three for a penny; a dozen will make a very good pie or _soup_, like No. 244. Turkey heads, about a penny each. Duck giblets, about three half-pence a set; four sets will make a _tureen of good soup for sixpence_. See No. 244. _Obs._--Poultry is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty. The _price of it_ varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the supply at market, and the demand for it. It is generally _dearest_ from March to July, when the town is fullest; and _cheapest_ about September, when the game season commences, and the weather being colder, allows of its being brought from more distant parts, and the town becoming thin, there is less demand for it. The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to economical families, who, from hearing the very high price poultry sometimes costs, are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons, we have noted, it is sometimes as cheap as butcher's meat. VEGETABLES. The public are frequently, from want of regular information when the proper seasons arrive for vegetables, put to much inconvenience in attending the markets, taking unnecessary inquiries, &c. The following list, it is presumed, will afford much useful information to the reader:-- +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ |_Names of Vegetables._ | _Earliest | _Earliest | _When | | | time for | natural | cheapest._ | | | forced._ | growth._ | | +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ |Artichokes (No. 136) | |July on to October |September. | |Ditto Jerusalem | |From Sept. to June {|Nov. Dec. & | | (No. 117) | | {|foll. months.| |Angelica stalks, } | {|Middle of May, and }|June. | | for preserving } | {| whole of June }| | |Asparagus (No. 123) |{Begin. of |Mid. of April, May,}|June and | | |{ Jan. | June, and July }| July. | |Beans, French, or} |{Early in | End of June, or }|August. | | Kidneys } |{ Feb. | beginning of July}| | |Scarlet ditto | |July |September. | |Windsor beans, long }| |June |July & Aug. | | pods and early kinds }| | | | |Beet, red (No. 127) | |All the year |Dec. & Jan. | |Ditto, white, the leaves| |July | | |Borcole, or Scotch } | |November |Dec. & Jan. | | Cale, or Kale. } | | | | |Broccoli (No. 126) | |October |Feb. & Mar. | |Cabbage (No. 118) | |May and June |July. | |Ditto, red | |July and August |August. | |Ditto, white | |October |October. | |Cardoons | {|Nov. and three |December. | | | {| following months | | |Carrots (No. 129) | |May |August. | |Cauliflowers (No. 125) | |Beginning of June |July & Aug. | |Celery (No. 289) | |Ditto September |November. | |Chervil | |April |June. | |Corn salad | |May |---- | |Chervil (No. 264) | {|March, and through |May. | | | {| the year | | |Cucumbers (No. 135) |March |Beginning of July |Aug. & Sep. | |Endive | {|June, and through |Sep. & Oct. | | | {| the year | | |Eschalots, for keeping} | {|August, and through |Sep. & two | |(No. 402) } | {| the year |fol. months. | |Leeks | {|September, and six |Novem. and | | | {| months after | December. | |Lettuce, Coss | |April |June, July, | |Ditto, cabbage | |---- |and Aug. | |Onions, for keeping | {|Aug. Sep. and |October and | | | {| following months | November. | |Parsley (No. 261) | {|Feb. and through |February & | | | {| the year | March. | |Parsnips (No. 128) | {|October, and |July. | | | {| continue until May| | |Pease (No. 134) |Beg. or }|June, July, and |August, and | | | mid. of }| following months | fol. month. | | | May }| | | |Potatoes (No. 102, &c.) |March }|May, and through |June, | | | }| the year |May & June. | |Radishes |Begin. of }|End of March, and |June. | | |March }| following months | | |Ditto, turnip, red and} | |Ditto |June. | |white } | | | | |Ditto, black, Spanish | {|August, and |September. | | | {| following months | | |Small salad (No. 372) | |All the year |May & June. | |Salsify | |July, August |August. | |Scorzonera | |---- |---- | |Sea Kale (No. 124) |Dec. & Jan.|April and May |May. | |Savoury cabbage | {|September, and |November. | | | {| following months | | |Sorrel | |All the year |June & July. | |Spinage, spring | {|March, April, and |June & July. | | | {| following months | | |Ditto, winter | {|Oct. Nov. and |November. | | | {| following months | | |Turnips | {|May, June, and |June & July. | | | {| following months | | |Ditto, tops (No. 132) | {|March, April, and |April and | | | {| May | May. | |Ditto, for salad | |April and May |June and | |Ditto, Welch | |February | July. | +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ APPENDIX; COMPRISING DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING PASTRY, PRESERVES, BREAD, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. &c. _Puff Paste._--(No. 1.) To a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub gently in with the hand half a pound of fresh butter; mix up with half a pint of spring water; knead it well, and set it by for a quarter of an hour; then roll it out thin, lay on it, in small pieces, three quarters of a pound more of butter, throw on it a little flour, double it up in folds, and roll it out thin three times, and set it by for an hour in a cold place. _Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies._--(No. 2.) Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt butter, break it into small pieces, and wash it well in cold water; rub gently together the butter and flour, and mix it up with the yelk of three eggs, beat together with a spoon; and nearly a pint of spring-water; roll it out, and double it in folds three times, and it is ready. _Tart Paste for Family Pies._--(No. 3.) Rub in with the hand half a pound of butter into one pound and a quarter of flour, mix it with half a pint of water, and knead it well. _Sweet, or short and crisped Tart Paste._--(No. 4.) To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces of fresh butter, the yelks of two eggs beat, and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar; mix up together with half a pint of new milk, and knead it well. See No. 30. N.B. This crust is frequently iced. _Raised Pies._--(No. 5.) Put two pounds and a half of flour on the pasteboard; and put on the fire, in a saucepan, three quarters of a pint of water, and half a pound of good lard; when the water boils, make a hole in the middle of the flour, pour in the water and lard by degrees, gently mixing the flour with it with a spoon; and when it is well mixed, then knead it with your hands till it becomes stiff: dredge a little flour to prevent its sticking to the board, or you cannot make it look smooth: do not roll it with the rolling-pin, but roll it with your hands, about the thickness of a quart pot; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers; put one hand in the middle, and keep the other close on the outside till you have worked it either in an oval or a round shape: have your meat ready cut, and seasoned with pepper and salt: if pork, cut in small slices; the griskin is the best for pasties: if you use mutton, cut it in very neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you make them; roll out the covers with the rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet it round the edge, put it on the pie, and press it together with your thumb and finger, and then cut it all round with a pair of scissors quite even, and pinch them inside and out, and bake them an hour and a half. _Paste for boiled Puddings._--(No. 6.) Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a pint of milk or water, and beat it well with the rolling-pin, to incorporate the suet with the flour. _Paste for stringing Tartlets, &c._--(No. 7.) Mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of flour, an ounce of fresh butter, and a little cold water; rub it well between the board and your hand till it begins to string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, and draw it into fine strings, lay them across your tartlets in any device you please, and bake them immediately. _Paste for Croquants or Cut Pastry._--(No. 8.) To half a pound of fine flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf sugar; mix it well together with yelks of eggs till of a good stiffness. _Venison Pasty._--(No. 9.) Take a neck, shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not hung too long; bone them, trim off all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square, and put them into a stew-pan, with three gills of Port wine, two onions, or a few eschalots sliced; some pepper, salt, three blades of mace, about a dozen allspice, and enough veal broth to cover it; put it over a slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done; put the trimmings into another saucepan, cover it with water, and set it on a fire. Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, and put them into a deep dish with a little of their liquor, and set it by to cool; then add the remainder of the liquor to the bones and trimmings, and boil it till the pasty is ready; then cover the pasty with paste made like No. 5; ornament the top, and bake it for two hours in a slow oven; and before it is sent to table, pour in a sauce made with the gravy the venison was stewed in, strained and skimmed free from fat; some pepper, salt, half a gill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and a little flour and butter to thicken it. _Mutton or Veal Pie._--(No. 10.) Cut into chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the greatest part of the fat of a loin, or best end of a neck of mutton (the former the best), season them, and lay them in a pie dish, with a little water and half a gill of mushroom catchup (chopped onion and potatoes, if approved); cover it with paste (No. 2), bake it two hours; when done, lift up the crust from the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, let it stand, and skim it clean; add, if wanted, some more seasoning; make it boil, and pour it into the pie. Veal pie may be made of the brisket part of the breast; but must be parboiled first. _Hare Pie._--(No. 11.) Take the hare skinned and washed, cut it into pieces, and parboil it for two minutes to cleanse it; wash it well, and put it in a stew-pot with six eschalots chopped, a gill of Port wine, a small quantity of thyme, savoury, sweet marjoram, and parsley, tied in a bunch, four cloves, and half a dozen allspice; cover it with veal broth, and stew it till half done; pick out the prime pieces, such as the back, legs, &c. (leaving the remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted); take the parts preserved, and fill them into a dish with some water, and cover it with paste as No. 2; bake it an hour; strain the gravy from the trimmings, thicken it a little, and throw in half a gill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and pour it into the pie boiling hot; line the bottom of the dish with Hare stuffing (No. 379), or make it into forcemeat balls. Pies of game and wild fowl are made in like manner; and as the following receipt for Pigeon pie. _Savoury Pies, Pasties, and Patties._--(No. 12.) The _piquance_ of pies may be regulated _ad libitum_, by sprinkling the articles with zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455, and see Nos. 457 and 459), or by covering the bottom of the dish with any of the forcemeats enumerated in Nos. 373 to 385, and making it into balls; lay one ring of these, and another of hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, round the top of the pie; and instead of putting in water, put strong gravy. After the pies are baked, pour in through a funnel any of the various gravies, sauces, &c.: truffles, mushrooms, wine, spices, pickles, &c. are also added. See also Nos. 396 to 402. MEM. These are dishes contrived rather to excite appetite than to satisfy it. Putting meat or poultry into a pie is certainly the very worst way of cooking it; it is often baked to rags; and very rarely indeed does a savoury pie come to table that deserves to be introduced to the stomach. _Pigeon or Lark Pie._--(No. 13.) Truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stewing, season them with pepper and salt; lay at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of about a pound weight, cut into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out with a chopper: on it lay the pigeons, the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth or water, and over these a layer of steaks; wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over with puff paste (No. 1), or the paste as directed for seasoned pies (No. 2); wash it over with yelk of egg, and ornament it with leaves of paste and the feet of the pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a moderate-heated oven: before it is sent to table make an aperture in the top, and pour in some good gravy quite hot. _Giblet Pie._--(No. 14.) Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of goose giblets: cut the legs in two, the wing and neck into three, and the gizzard into four pieces; preserve the liquor, and set the giblets by till cold, otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the paste you cover the pie with: then season the whole with black pepper and salt, and put them into a deep dish; cover it with paste as directed in No. 2, rub it over with yelk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven: in the meantime take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim it free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew-pan, thicken it a little with flour and butter, or flour and water, season it with pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; add a few drops of browning, strain it through a fine sieve, and when you take the pie from the oven, pour some of this into it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of the dish a moderately thick rump-steak: if you have any cold game or poultry, cut it in pieces, and add it to the above. _Rump-Steak Pie._--(No. 15.) Cut three pounds of rump-steak (that has been kept till tender) into pieces half as big as your hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and every part which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and beat them with a chopper: chop very fine half a dozen eschalots, and add them to half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed; strew some of the mixture at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of steak, then some more of the mixture, and so on till the dish is full; add half a gill of mushroom catchup, and the same quantity of gravy, or red wine; cover it as in the preceding receipt, and bake it two hours. N.B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately with the steaks, their liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catchup and wine, will be a variety. _Chicken Pie._--(No. 16.) Parboil, and then cut up neatly two young chickens; dry them; set them over a slow fire for a few minutes; have ready some veal stuffing or forcemeat (No. 374 or No. 375), lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of dressed ham; cover it with paste (No. 1). Bake it from an hour and a half to two hours; when sent to table, add some good gravy, well seasoned, and not too thick. Duck pie is made in like manner, only substituting the duck stuffing (No. 378), instead of the veal. N.B. The above may be put into a raised French crust (see No. 18) and baked; when done, take off the top, and put a ragoût of sweetbread to the chickens. _Rabbit Pie._--(No. 17.) Made in the same way; but make a forcemeat to cover the bottom of the dish, by pounding a quarter of a pound of boiled bacon with the livers of the rabbits; some pepper and salt, some pounded mace, some chopped parsley, and an eschalot, thoroughly beaten together; and you may lay some thin slices of ready-dressed ham or bacon on the top of your rabbits. "This pie will ask two hours baking," says Mrs. Mary Tillinghast, in page 29 of her 12mo. vol. of rare receipts, 1678. _Raised French Pie._--(No. 18.) Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as directed (No. 5); knead it well, and into the shape of a ball; press your thumb into the centre, and work it by degrees into any shape (oval or round is the most general), till about five inches high; put it on a sheet of paper, and fill it with coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering for it about the same thickness as the sides; cement its sides with the yelk of egg; cut the edges quite even, and pinch it round with the finger and thumb, yelk of egg it over with a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way fancy may direct, with the same kind of paste. Bake it of a fine brown colour, in a slow oven; and when done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran, brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of chicken, rabbit, or any other _entrée_ most convenient. Send it to table with a napkin under. _Raised Ham Pie._--(No. 19.) Soak a small ham four or five hours; wash and scrape it well; cut off the knuckle, and boil it for half an hour; then take it up and trim it very neatly; take off the rind and put it into an oval stew-pan, with a pint of Madeira or sherry, and enough veal stock to cover it. Let it stew for two hours, or till three parts done; take it out and set it in a cold place; then raise a crust as in the foregoing receipt, large enough to receive it; put in the ham, and round it the veal forcemeat; cover and ornament; it will take about an hour and a half to bake in a slow oven: when done, take off the cover, glaze the top, and pour round the following sauce, viz. take the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it free from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together; a few drops of browning, and some Cayenne pepper. P.S. The above is, I think, a good way of dressing a small ham, and has a good effect cold for a supper. _Veal and Ham Pie._--(No. 20.) Take two pounds of veal cutlet, cut them in middling-sized pieces, season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or dressed ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some forced or sausage meat (No. 374, or No. 375) at the top, with some stewed button mushrooms, and the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as with rump-steak pie. N.B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops, and the chine bone taken away. _Raised Pork Pie._--(No. 21.) Make a raised crust, of a good size, with paste (as directed in No. 5), about four inches high; take the rind and chine bone from a loin of pork, cut it into chops, beat them with a chopper, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your pie; put on the top and close it, and pinch it round the edge; rub it over with yelk of egg, and bake it two hours with a paper over it, to prevent the crust from burning. When done, pour in some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed mustard (if approved). N.B. As the above is generally eaten cold, it is an excellent repast for a journey, and will keep for several days. _Eel Pie._--(No. 22.) Take eels about half a pound each; skin, wash, and trim off the fin with a pair of scissors, cut them into pieces three inches long, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving out the heads and tails. Add a gill of water or veal broth, cover it with paste (No. 2), rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in yelk of egg, ornament it with some of the same paste, bake it an hour; and when done, make a hole in the centre, and pour in the following sauce through a funnel: the trimmings boiled in half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pepper and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and thickened with flour and water, strained through a fine sieve: add it boiling hot. _Raised Lamb Pies._--(No. 23.) Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them very nicely, and lay them in the bottom of a stew or frying-pan, with an ounce of butter, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and some pepper and salt: put them over a fire, and turn them and put them to cool; then raise four or five small pies with paste (as No. 6), about the size of a tea-cup; put some veal forcemeat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out the top an eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch the edges, bake them half an hour, and when done take off the top, and pour in some good brown sauce. _Beef-Steak Pudding._--(No. 24.) Get rump-steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sinews, &c.; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, likewise some potatoes peeled and cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick; rub the inside of a basin or an oval plain mould with butter, sheet it with paste as directed for boiled puddings (No. 7); season the steaks with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then another of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throwing in part of the chopped onion; add to it half a gill of mushroom catchup, a table-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth; roll out a top, and close it well to prevent the water getting in; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and tie up the pudding; have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in, and boil it two hours and a half; take it up, remove the cloth, turn it downwards in a deep dish, and when wanted take away the basin or mould. _Vol au Vent._--(No. 25.) Roll off tart paste (No. 3) till about the eighth of an inch thick: then, with a tin cutter made for that purpose (about the size of the bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), cut out the shape, and lay it on a baking-plate, with paper; rub it over with yelk of egg; roll out good puff paste (No. 1) an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter, and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub the top with yelk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of a light brown colour: when done, take out the paste inside the centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wanted, fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, rabbit, ragoût of sweetbread, or any other _entrée_ you wish. _Oyster Patties._--(No. 26.) Roll out puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into squares with a knife, sheet eight or ten patty pans, put upon each a bit of bread the size of half a walnut; roll out another layer of paste of the same thickness, cut it as above, wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put on the top, pare them round to the pan, and notch them about a dozen times with the back of the knife, rub them lightly with yelk of egg, bake them in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour: when done, take a thin slice off the top, then, with a small knife or spoon, take out the bread and the inside paste, leaving the outside quite entire; then parboil two dozen of large oysters, strain them from their liquor, wash, beard, and cut them into four, put them into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon-peel, the oyster liquor, free from sediment, reduced by boiling to one half, some Cayenne pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice; stir it over a fire five minutes, and fill the patties. _Lobster Patties._--(No. 27.) Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen lobster already boiled; pick the meat from the tail and claws, and chop it fine; put it into a stew-pan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth, an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, and half a gill of veal consommé, Cayenne pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a table-spoonful of flour and water: stew it five minutes. _Veal and Ham Patties._--(No. 28.) Chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, and three ounces of ham very small; put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled into flour, half a gill of cream; half a gill of veal stock; a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, some Cayenne pepper and salt, a spoonful of essence of ham and lemon-juice, and stir it over the fire some time, taking care it does not burn. _Chicken and Ham Patties._--(No. 29.) Use the white meat from the breast of chickens or fowls, and proceed as in the last receipt. _Ripe Fruit Tarts._--(No. 30.) Gooseberries, damsons, morrello cherries, currants mixed with raspberries, plums, green gages, white plums, &c. should be quite fresh picked, and washed: lay them in the dish with the centre highest, and about a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of fruit (but if quite ripe they will not require so much); add a little water; rub the edges of the dish with yelk of egg; cover it with tart paste (No. 4), about half an inch thick; press your thumb round the rim, and close it well; pare it round with a knife; make a hole in the sides below the rim; bake it in a moderate-heated oven; and ten minutes before it is done, take it out and ice it, and return it to the oven to dry. _Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry._--(No. 31.) Beat up in a half-pint mug the white of two eggs to a solid froth; lay some on the middle of the pie with a paste-brush; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, and press it down with the hand; wash out the brush, and splash by degrees with water till the sugar is dissolved, and put it in the oven for ten minutes, and serve it up cold. _Apple Pie._--(No. 32.) Take eight russetings, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core, and cut not smaller than quarters; place them as close as possible together into a pie-dish, with four cloves; rub together in a mortar some lemon-peel, with four ounces of good moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add some quince jam; cover it with puff paste; bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally eaten warm.) _Apple Tart creamed._--(No. 33.) Use green codlings, in preference to any other apple, and proceed as in the last receipt. When the pie is done, cut out the whole of the centre, leaving the edges; when cold, pour on the apple some rich boiled custard, and place round it some small leaves of puff paste of a light colour. _Tartlets, such as are made at the Pastry Cooks._--(No. 34.) Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) of a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into pieces, and sheet pans about the size of a crown piece, pare them round with a knife, and put a small quantity of apricot, damson, raspberry, strawberry, apple, marmalade, or any other kind of jam (No. 92), in the centre; take paste (No. 7), and string them crossways; bake them from six to ten minutes in a quick oven: they should be of a very light brown colour. _French Tart of preserved Fruit._--(No. 35.) Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste (No. 4), about an eighth of an inch thick; roll out puff paste (No. 1), half an inch thick, and cut it out in strips an inch wide; wet the tart paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim; fill the centre with jam or marmalade of any kind, ornament it with small leaves of puff paste, bake it half an hour, and send it to table cold. N.B. The above may be filled before the puff paste is laid on, neatly strung with paste, as No. 7, and the rim put over after. _Obs._--The most general way of sending tourtes to table, is with a croquante of paste (No. 86), or a caramel of spun sugar (No. 85), put over after it is baked. _Small Puffs of preserved Fruit._--(No. 36.) Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good puff paste (No. 1), and cut it into pieces four inches square; lay a small quantity of any kind of jam on each, double them over, and cut them into square, triangle, or, with a tin cutter, half moons; lay them with paper on a baking-plate; ice them (as at No. 31), bake them about twenty minutes, taking care not to colour the icing. _Cranberry Tart._--(No. 37.) Take Swedish, American, or Russian cranberries, pick and wash them in several waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of cranberries. Cover it with puff (No. 1) or tart paste (No. 4), and bake it three quarters of an hour; if tart paste is used, draw it from the oven five minutes before it is done, and ice it as No. 31, return it to the oven, and send it to table cold. _Mince Pies._--(No. 38.) Sheet with tart paste (No. 4), half a dozen of tin pans of any size you please; fill them with mince meat (No. 39), and cover with puff paste, a quarter of an inch thick; trim round the edges with a knife, make an aperture at the top with a fork, bake them in a moderate-heated oven, and send them to table hot, first removing the tin. N.B. Some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over. _Mince Meat._--(No. 39.) Two pounds of beef suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds of apple, pared, cored, and minced; three pounds of currants, washed and picked; one pound of raisins, stoned and chopped fine; one pound of good moist sugar; half a pound of citron, cut into thin slices; one pound of candied lemon and orange-peel, cut as ditto; two pounds of ready-dressed roast beef, free from skin and gristle, and chopped fine; two nutmegs, grated; one ounce of salt, one of ground ginger, half an ounce of coriander seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of cloves, all ground fine; the juice of six lemons, and their rinds grated; half a pint of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix the suet, apples, currants, meat-plums, and sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, and strew in the spice by degrees; mix the sugar, lemon-juice, wine, and brandy, and pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it well together; set it by in close-covered pans in a cold place: when wanted, stir it up from the bottom, and add half a glass of brandy to the quantity you require. N.B. The same weight of tripe is frequently substituted for the meat, and sometimes the yelks of eggs boiled hard. _Obs._--The lean side of a buttock, thoroughly roasted, is generally chosen for mince meat. _Cheesecakes._--(No. 40.) Put two quarts of new milk into a stew-pan, set it near the fire, and stir in two table-spoonfuls of rennet: let it stand till it is set (this will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd into a colander to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound it quite smooth; then add four ounces of sugar, pounded and sifted, and three ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little potting-pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together: beat the yelks of four eggs in a basin, with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currants, washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your tins ready lined with puff paste (No. 1), about a quarter of an inch thick, notch them all round the edge, and fill each with the curd. Bake them twenty minutes. When you have company, and want a variety, you can make a mould of curd and cream, by putting the curd in a mould full of holes, instead of the colander: let it stand for six hours, then turn it out very carefully on a dish, and pour over it half a pint of good cream sweetened with loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg. What there is left, if set in a cool place, will make excellent cheesecakes the next day. _Lemon Cheesecakes._--(No. 41.) Grate the rind of three, and take the juice of two lemons, and mix them with three sponge biscuits, six ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of sifted sugar, a little grated nutmeg and pounded cinnamon, half a gill of cream, and three eggs well beaten; work them with the hand, and fill the pans, which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with puff paste, and lay two or three slices of candied lemon-peel, cut thin, upon the top. _Orange Cheesecakes._--(No. 42.) To be made in the same way, omitting the lemons, and using oranges instead. _Almond Cheesecakes._--(No. 43.) Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; let them lie half an hour in a drying stove, or before the fire; pound them very fine in a mortar, with two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water, to prevent them from oiling; set into a stew-pan half a pound of fresh butter; set it in a warm place, and cream it very smooth with the hand, and add it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, some good cream, and four eggs; rub all well together with the pestle; cover a patty-pan with puff paste; fill in the mixture; ornament it with slices of candied lemon-peel and almonds split, and bake it half an hour in a brisk oven. _Mille Feuilles, or a Pyramid of Paste._--(No. 44.) Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) half an inch thick; cut out with a cutter made for the purpose, in the shape of an oval, octagon, square, diamond, or any other form, (and to be got of most tinmen,) observing to let the first piece be as large as the bottom of the dish you intend sending it to table on: the second piece a size smaller, and so on in proportion, till the last is about the size of a shilling; lay them with paper on a baking-plate, yelk of egg the top, and bake them of a light brown colour: take them from the paper, and when cold put the largest size in the dish, then a layer of apricot jam; then the next size, a layer of raspberry jam, and so on, varying the jam between each layer of paste to the top, on which place a bunch of dried fruit, and spin a caramel (No. 85) of sugar over it. _Brunswick Tourte._--(No. 45.) Make a crust as for vol au vent (No. 25); pare and core with a scoop eight or ten golden pippins; put them into a stew-pan, with a gill of sweet wine, and four ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a bit of lemon-peel, a small stick of cinnamon, and a blade of mace; stew them over a slow fire till the apples are tender; set them by: when cold, place them in the paste, and pour round them some good custard (No. 53). _Blancmange._--(No. 46.) Boil for a few minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with an ounce of picked isinglass (if in summer, one ounce and a quarter), the rind of half a lemon, peeled very thin, a little cinnamon, and a blade of mace, and two and a half ounces of lump sugar: blanch and pound eight or ten bitter, and half an ounce of sweet almonds very fine, with a spoonful of rose water, and mix them with the milk; strain it through a lawn sieve or napkin into a basin, with half a pint of good cream. Let it stand half an hour; pour it into another basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom, and when nearly cold fill it into moulds: when wanted, put your finger round the mould; pull out the blancmange; set it in the centre of a dish, and garnish with slices of orange. N.B. About half a gill of noyeau may be substituted for the almonds. _Orange Jelly._--(No. 47.) Boil in a pint of water one ounce and a quarter of picked isinglass, the rind of an orange cut thin, a stick of cinnamon, a few corianders, and three ounces of loaf-sugar, till the isinglass is dissolved; then squeeze two Seville oranges or lemons, and enough China oranges to make a pint of juice: mix all together, and strain it through a tamis or lawn sieve into a basin; set it in a cold place for half an hour; pour it into another basin free from sediment; and when it begins to congeal, fill your mould: when wanted, dip the mould into lukewarm water; turn it out on a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon cut in slices, and placed round. N.B. A few grains of saffron put in the water will add much to its appearance. _Italian Cream._--(No. 48.) Rub on a lump of sugar the rind of a lemon, and scrape it off with a knife into a deep dish or china bowl, and add half a gill of brandy, two ounces and a half of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of double cream, and beat it up well with a clean whisk; in the meantime, boil an ounce of isinglass in a gill of water till quite dissolved; strain it to the other ingredients; beat it some time, and fill your mould; and when cold and set well, dish it as in the foregoing receipt. N.B. The above may be flavoured with any kind of liqueur, raspberry, strawberry, or other fruits, coloured with prepared cochineal, and named to correspond with the flavour given. _Trifle._--(No. 49.) Mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, some of the peel grated fine, half a gill of brandy, and ditto of Lisbon or sweet wine, and a pint and a half of good cream; whisk the whole well, and take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer, and put it on a sieve; continue to whisk it till you have enough of the whip; set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours; then lay in a deep dish six or eight sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of ratafia, two ounces of Jordan almonds blanched and split, some grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, currant jelly and raspberry jam, half a pint of sweet wine, and a little brandy; when the cakes have absorbed the liquor, pour over about a pint of custard, made rather thicker than for apple pie; and, when wanted, lay on lightly plenty of the whip, and throw over a few nonpareil comfits. _Whip Syllabub._--(No. 50.) Make a whip as in the last receipt; mix with a pint of cream, half a pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grated nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: nearly fill the custard-glasses with the mixture, and lay on with a spoon some of the whip. _Chantilly Basket._--(No. 51.) Dip into sugar boiled to a caramel (See No. 85) small ratafias, stick them on a dish in what form you please, then take ratafias one size larger, and having dipped them into the sugar, build them together till about four or five inches high; make a rim of York drops or drageas of gum paste, likewise a handful of sugar or ratafia, and set it over the basket; line the inside with wafer-paper, and a short time before it is wanted, fill it with a mixture the same as for trifle, and upon that plenty of good whip. _Baked Custard._--(No. 52.) Boil in a pint of milk, a few coriander seeds, a little cinnamon and lemon-peel; sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it a pint of cold milk; beat well eight eggs for ten minutes, and add the other ingredients; pour it from one pan into another six or eight times, strain it through a sieve, and let it stand some time; skim off the froth from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and bake them immediately in a hot oven, give them a good colour; about ten minutes will do them. _Boiled Custard._--(No. 53.) Boil in a pint of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders, and cinnamon, a small quantity of each, half a dozen of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix it with a pint of cream, the yelks of ten eggs, and the whites of six, well beaten; pass it through a hair-sieve, stir it with a whisk over a slow fire till it begins to thicken, remove it from the fire, and continue to stir it till nearly cold; add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, fill the cups or glasses, and grate nutmeg over. _Almond Custards._--(No. 54.) Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; boil a pint of milk as No. 52; sweeten it with two ounces and a half of sugar; rub the almonds through a fine sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the milk to the yelks of eight eggs, and the whites of three well-beaten; stir it over a fire till it is of a good thickness; take it off the fire, and stir it till nearly cold, to prevent its curdling. N.B. The above may be baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of puff paste put round. _Twelfth Cake._--(No. 55.) Two pounds of sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf sugar, two pounds of butter, eighteen eggs, four pounds of currants, one half pound of almonds blanched and chopped, one half pound of citron, one pound of candied orange and lemon-peel cut into thin slices, a large nutmeg grated, half an ounce of ground allspice; ground cinnamon, mace, ginger, and corianders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a gill of brandy. Put the butter into a stew-pan, in a warm place, and work it into a smooth cream with the hand, and mix it with the sugar and spice in a pan (or on your paste board) for some time; then break in the eggs by degrees, and beat it at least twenty minutes; stir in the brandy, and then the flour, and work it a little; add the fruit, sweetmeats, and almonds, and mix all together lightly; have ready a hoop cased with paper, on a baking-plate; put in the mixture, smooth it on the top with your hand, dipped in milk; put the plate on another, with sawdust between, to prevent the bottom from colouring too much: bake it in a slow oven[376-*] four hours or more, and when nearly cold, ice it with No. 84. This mixture would make a handsome cake, full twelve or fourteen inches over. _Obs._--If made in cold weather, the eggs should be broken into a pan, and set into another filled with hot water; likewise the fruit, sweetmeats, and almonds, laid in a warm place, otherwise it may chill the butter, and cause the cake to be heavy. _Bride, or Wedding Cake._--(No. 56.) The only difference usually made in these cakes is, the addition of one pound of raisins, stoned and mixed with the other fruit. _Plain Pound Cake._--(No. 57.) Cream, as in No. 55, one pound of butter, and work it well together with one pound of sifted sugar till quite smooth; beat up nine eggs, and put them by degrees to the butter, and beat them for twenty minutes; mix in lightly one pound of flour; put the whole into a hoop, cased with paper, on a baking-plate, and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven. An ounce of caraway-seeds added to the above, will make what is termed a rich seed cake. _Plum Pound Cake._--(No. 58.) Make a cake as No. 57, and when you have beaten it, mix in lightly half a pound of currants, two ounces of orange, and two ounces of candied lemon-peel cut small, and half a nutmeg grated. _Common Seed Cake._--(No. 59.) Sift two and a half pounds of flour, with half a pound of good Lisbon or loaf sugar, pounded into a pan or bowl; make a cavity in the centre, and pour in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a table-spoonful of thick yest; mix the milk and yest with enough flour to make it as thick as cream (this is called setting a sponge); set it by in a warm place for one hour; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a pound of fresh butter, and add it to the other ingredients, with one ounce of caraway-seeds, and enough of milk to make it of a middling stiffness; line a hoop with paper, well rubbed over with butter; put in the mixture; set it some time to prove in a stove, or before the fire, and bake it on a plate about an hour, in rather a hot oven; when done, rub the top over with a paste-brush dipped in milk. _Rich Yest Cake._--(No. 60.) Set a sponge as in the foregoing receipt, with the same proportions of flour, sugar, milk, and yest: when it has lain some time, mix it with three quarters of a pound of butter oiled, one pound and a quarter of currants, half a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel cut fine, grated nutmeg, ground allspice and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of each: case a hoop as stated No. 59, bake it in a good-heated oven one hour and a half. N.B. It may be iced with No. 84, and ornamented as a twelfth cake. _Queen, or Heart Cakes._--(No. 61.) One pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, one pound and a quarter of flour, two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeg grated. Cream the butter as at No. 55, and mix it well with the sugar and spice, then put in half the eggs and beat it ten minutes, add the remainder of the eggs, and work it ten minutes longer, stir in the flour lightly, and the currants afterward, then take small tin pans of any shape (hearts the most usual), rub the inside of each with butter, fill and bake them a few minutes in a hot oven, on a sheet of matted wire, or on a baking-plate; when done, remove them as early as possible from the pans. _Queen's Drops._--(No. 62.) Leave out four ounces of flour from the last receipt, and add two ounces more of currants, and two ounces of candied peel cut small; work it the same as in the last receipt, and when ready put the measure into a biscuit-funnel,[378-*] and lay them out in drops about the size of half a crown, on white paper; bake them in a hot oven, and, when nearly cold, take them from the paper. _Shrewsbury Cakes._--(No. 63.) Rub well together one pound of pounded sugar, one pound of fresh butter, and one pound and a half of sifted flour, mix it into a paste, with half a gill of milk or cream, and one egg, let it lie half an hour, roll it out thin, cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, about three inches over, and bake them on a clean baking-plate in a moderate oven. _Banbury Cakes._--(No. 64.) Set a sponge with two table-spoonfuls of thick yest, a gill of warm milk, and a pound of flour; when it has worked a little, mix with it half a pound of currants, washed and picked, half a pound of candied orange and lemon peel cut small, one ounce of spice, such as ground cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nutmeg: mix the whole together with half a pound of honey; roll out puff paste (No. 1,) a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into rounds with a cutter, about four inches over, lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture; close it round with the fingers in the form of an oval; place the join underneath; press it flat with the hand; sift sugar over it, and bake them on a plate a quarter of an hour, in a moderate oven, and of a light colour. _Bath Buns._--(No. 65.) Rub together with the hand one pound of fine flour, and half a pound of butter; beat six eggs, and add them to the flour, &c. with a table-spoonful of good yest; mix them all together, with about half a tea-cupful of milk; set it in a warm place for an hour, then mix in six ounces of sifted sugar, and a few caraway seeds; mould them into buns with a table-spoon, on a clean baking-plate; throw six or eight caraway comfits on each, and bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes. This quantity should make about eighteen. _Sponge Biscuits._--(No. 66.) Break into a round-bottomed preserving-pan[379-*] nine good-sized eggs, with one pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some grated lemon-peel; set the pan over a very slow fire, and whisk it till quite warm (but not too hot to set the eggs); remove the pan from the fire, and whisk it till cold, which may be a quarter of an hour; then stir in the flour lightly with a spattle; previous to which, prepare the sponge frame as follows:--Wipe them well out with a clean cloth, rub the insides with a brush dipped in butter, which has been clarified, and sift loaf sugar over; fill the frames with the mixture; throw pounded sugar over; bake them five minutes in a brisk oven: when done, take them from the frames, and lay them on a sieve. _Savoy Cake, or Sponge Cake in a Mould._--(No. 67.) Take nine eggs, their weight of sugar, and six of flour, some grated lemon, or a few drops of essence of lemon, and half a gill of orange-flower water, work them as in the last receipt; put in the orange-flower water when you take it from the fire; be very careful the mould is quite dry; rub it all over the inside with butter; put some pounded sugar round the mould upon the butter, and shake it well to get it out of the crevices: tie a slip of paper round the mould; fill it three parts full with the mixture, and bake it one hour in a slack oven; when done, let it stand for a few minutes, and take it from the mould, which may be done by shaking it a little. _Biscuit Drops._--(No. 68.) Beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted sugar with eight eggs for twenty minutes; then add a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds, and one pound and a quarter of flour: lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate, put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and drop it out on the paper about the size of half a crown; sift sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven. _Savoy Biscuits._--(No. 69.) To be made as drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and quarter of a pound of flour: put it into the biscuit-funnel, and lay it out about the length and size of your finger, on common shop paper; strew sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven; when cold, wet the backs of the paper with a paste-brush and water: when they have lain some time, take them carefully off, and place them back to back. _Italian Macaroons._--(No. 70.) Take one pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanched, pound them quite fine with the whites of four eggs; add two pounds and a half of sifted loaf sugar, and rub them well together with the pestle; put in by degrees about ten or eleven more whites, working them well as you put them in; but the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness is to bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, put one or two more whites; put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out on wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a small walnut, having ready about two ounces of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips, put three or four pieces on each, and bake them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a slow oven. _Obs._--Almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two or three days before they are used, by which means they will work much better, and where large quantities are used, it is advised to grind them in a mill provided for that purpose. _Ratafia Cakes._--(No. 71.) To half a pound of blanched bitter, and half a pound of sweet, almonds, put the whites of four eggs; beat them quite fine in a mortar, and stir in two pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted; rub them well together with the whites (by degrees) of nine eggs (try their lightness as in the last receipt); lay them out from the biscuit-funnel on cartridge-paper, in drops about the size of a shilling, and bake them in a middling-heated oven, of a light brown colour, and take them from the papers as soon as cold. N.B. A smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for other articles. _Almond Sponge Cake._--(No. 72.) Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched almonds quite fine, with the whites of three eggs; then put in one pound of sifted loaf sugar, some grated lemon-peel, and the yelks of fifteen eggs--work them well together: beat up to a solid froth the whites of twelve eggs, and stir them into the other ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dry flour: prepare a mould as at No. 67; put in the mixture, and bake it an hour in a slow oven: take it carefully from the mould, and set it on a sieve. _Ratafia Cake._--(No. 73.) To be made as above, omitting a quarter of a pound of sweet, and substituting a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds. _Diet Bread Cake._--(No. 74.) Boil, in half a pint of water, one pound and a half of lump sugar; have ready one pint of eggs, three parts yelks, in a pan; pour in the sugar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about a quarter of an hour; then stir in two pounds of sifted flour; case the inside of square tins with white paper; fill them three parts full; sift a little sugar over, and bake it in a warm oven, and while hot remove them from the moulds. _Orange Gingerbread._--(No. 75.) Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add to it a pound and three quarters of treacle, six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, and one ounce of allspice: melt to an oil three quarters of a pound of butter; mix the whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours; roll it out with as little flour as possible, about half an inch thick; cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide; mark them in the form of checkers with the back of a knife; put them on a baking-plate about a quarter of an inch apart; rub them over with a brush dipped into the yelk of an egg beat up with a tea-cupful of milk; bake it in a cool oven about a quarter of an hour: when done, wash them slightly over again, divide the pieces with a knife (as in baking they will run together). _Gingerbread Nuts._--(No. 76.) To two pounds of sifted flour, put two pounds of treacle, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of candied orange-peel cut small, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, one ounce of ground caraways, and three quarters of a pound of butter oiled: mix all well together, and set it by some time; then roll it out in pieces about the size of a small walnut; lay them in rows on a baking-plate; dress them flat with the hand, and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes. _Plain Buns._--(No. 77.) To four pounds of sifted flour put one pound of good moist sugar; make a cavity in the centre, and stir in a gill of good yest, a pint of lukewarm milk, with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream; cover it over, and let it lie two hours; then melt to an oil (but not hot) one pound of butter, stir it into the other ingredients, with enough warm milk to make it a soft paste; throw a little flour over, and let them lie an hour; have ready a baking-platter rubbed over with butter; mould with the hand the dough into buns, about the size of a large egg; lay them in rows full three inches apart; set them in a warm place for half an hour, or till they have risen to double their size; bake them in a hot oven of a good colour, and wash them over with a brush dipped into milk when drawn from the oven. _Cross Buns._--(No. 78.) To the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground allspice, cinnamon, and mace, mixed; and when half proved, press the form of a cross with a tin mould (made for the purpose) in the centre, and proceed as above. _Seed Buns._--(No. 79.) Take two pounds of plain bun dough (No. 77), and mix in one ounce of caraway seeds; butter the insides of small tart-pans; mould the dough into buns, and put one in each pan; set them to rise in a warm place; and when sufficiently proved, ice them with the white of an egg beat to a froth, and laid on with a paste-brush; some pounded sugar upon that, and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush: bake them in a warm oven about ten minutes. _Plum Buns._--(No. 80.) To two pounds of No. 77 mixture, put half a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into small pieces, half a nutmeg grated, half an ounce of mixed spice, such as allspice, cinnamon, &c.: mould them into buns; jag them round the edge with a knife, and proceed as with plain buns, No. 77. _Orgeat._--(No. 81.) Pound very fine one pound of Jordan, and one ounce of bitter, almonds, in a marble mortar, with half a gill of orange-flower water to keep them from oiling; then mix with them one pint of rose and one pint of spring-water; rub it through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till the almonds are quite dry, which will reduce the quantity to about a quart: have ready three pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it to a crack (which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar, and then into cold water; and if you find the sugar to crack in moving your finger, it has boiled enough); put in the almonds; boil it one minute, and when cold put it into small bottles close corked; a table-spoonful of which will be sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the bottle before using. _Obs._--If the orgeat is for present use, the almonds may be pounded as above, and mixed with one quart of water, one quart of milk, a pint of capillaire or clarified sugar, rubbed through a tamis or fine sieve, and put into decanters for use. _Baked Pears._--(No. 82.) Take twelve large baking pears; pare and cut them into halves, leaving the stem about half an inch long; take out the core with the point of a knife, and place them close together in a block-tin saucepan, the inside of which is quite bright, with the cover to fit quite close; put to them the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its juice, a small stick of cinnamon, and twenty grains of allspice; cover them with spring-water, and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint and a half of water: cover them up close, and bake them for six hours in a very slow oven: they will be quite tender, and of a bright colour. _Obs._--Prepared cochineal is generally used for colouring the pears; but if the above is strictly attended to, it will be found to answer best. _To dry Apples._--(No. 83.) Take biffins, or orange or lemon-pippins; the former are the best; choose the clearest rinds, and without any blemishes; lay them on clean straw on a baking-wire; cover them well with more straw; set them into a slow oven; let them remain for four or five hours; draw them out and rub them in your hands, and press them very gently, otherwise you will burst the skins; return them into the oven for about an hour; press them again; when cold, if they look dry, rub them over with a little clarified sugar. _Obs._--By being put into the oven four or five times, pressing them between each time, they may be brought as flat, and eat as well, as the dried biffins from Norfolk. _Icing, for Twelfth or Bride Cake._--(No. 84.) Take one pound of double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve; put into a pan quite free from grease; break in the whites of six eggs, and as much powder blue as will lie on a sixpence; beat it well with a spattle for ten minutes; then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and beat it till it becomes thick and transparent. Set the cake you intend to ice in an oven or warm place five minutes; then spread over the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as possible. If for a wedding-cake only, plain ice it; if for a twelfth cake, ornament it with gum paste, or fancy articles of any description. _Obs._--A good twelfth cake, not baked too much, and kept in a cool dry place, will retain its moisture and eat well, if twelve months old. _To boil Sugar to Caramel._--(No. 85.) Break into a small copper or brass pan one pound of refined sugar; put in a gill of spring-water; set it on a fire; when it boils skim it quite clean, and let it boil quick, till it comes to the degree called crack; which may be known by dipping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar, and letting it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; and if it remains hard, it has attained that degree: squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and let it remain one minute longer on the fire; then set the pan into another of cold water: have ready moulds of any shape; rub them over with sweet oil; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and throw it over the mould in fine threads, till it is quite covered: make a small handle of caramel, or stick on two or three small gum paste rings, by way of ornament, and place it over small pastry of any description. _A Croquante of Paste._--(No. 86.) Roll out paste, as No. 8, about the eighth of an inch thick; rub over a plain mould with a little fresh butter; lay on the paste very even, and equally thin on both sides; pare it round the rim; then with a small penknife cut out small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, &c.; or use a small tin cutter of any shape: let it lie to dry some time, and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven, of a light colour: remove it from the mould, and place it over a tart, or any other dish of small pastry. _Derby or Short Cakes._--(No. 87.) Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one egg; mix all together with half a pint of milk: roll it out thin, and cut them into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking-plate, and put them into a middling-heated oven for about five minutes. _Egg and Ham Patties._--(No. 88.) Cut a slice of bread two inches thick, from the most solid part of a stale quartern loaf: have ready a tin round cutter, two inches diameter; cut out four or five pieces, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, press it nearly through the larger pieces, then remove with a small knife the bread from the inner circle: have ready a large stew-pan full of boiling lard; fry them of a light-brown colour, drain them dry with a clean cloth, and set them by till wanted; then take half a pound of lean ham, mince it small; add to it a gill of good brown sauce; stir it over the fire a few minutes, and put a small quantity of Cayenne pepper and lemon-juice: fill the shapes with the mixture, and lay a poached egg (No. 546) upon each. _Damson, or other Plum Cheese._--(No. 89.) Take damsons that have been preserved without sugar; pass them through a sieve, to take out the skins and stones. To every pound of pulp of fruit put half a pound of loaf sugar, broke small; boil them together till it becomes quite stiff; pour it into four common-sized dinner plates, rubbed with a little sweet oil; put it into a warm place to dry, and when quite firm, take it from the plate, and cut it into any shape you choose. N.B. Damson cheese is generally used in desserts. _Barley Sugar._--(No. 90.) Clarify, as No. 475, three pounds of refined sugar; boil it to the degree of _cracked_ (which may be ascertained by dipping a spoon into the sugar, and then instantly into cold water, and if it appears brittle, it is boiled enough); squeeze in a small tea-spoonful of the juice, and four drops of essence of lemon, and let it boil up once or twice, and set it by a few minutes: have ready a marble slab, or smooth stone, rubbed over with sweet oil; pour over the sugar; cut it into long stripes with a large pair of scissors; twist it a little, and when cold, keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters. _N.B._ A few drops of essence of ginger, instead of lemon, will make what is called ginger barley sugar. _Barley Sugar Drops._--(No. 91.) To be made as the last receipt. Have ready, by the time the sugar is boiled sufficiently, a large sheet of paper, with a smooth layer of sifted loaf sugar on it; put the boiled sugar into a ladle that has a fine lip; pour it out, in drops not larger than a shilling, on to the sifted sugar; when cold, fold them up separately in white paper. N.B. Some use an oiled marble slab instead of the sifted sugar. _Raspberry Jam._--(No. 92.) Rub fresh-gathered raspberries, taken on a dry day, through a wicker sieve; to one pint of the pulp put one pound of loaf sugar, broke small; put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire; when it begins to boil, skim it well, and stir it twenty minutes; put into small pots; cut white paper to the size of the top of the pot; dip them in brandy, and put them over the jam when cold, with a double paper tied over the pot. Strawberry jam is made the same way, and the scarlets are most proper for that purpose. _Apricot, or any Plum Jam._--(No. 93.) After taking away the stones from the apricots, and cutting out any blemishes they may have; put them over a slow fire, in a clean stew-pan, with half a pint of water; when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve: to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf-sugar; put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, and throw in the kernels of the apricots, and half an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an hour fast, and stirring it all the time; remove it from the fire, and fill it into pots, and cover them as at No. 92. N.B. Green gages or plums may be done in the same way, omitting the kernels or almonds. _Lemon Chips._--(No. 94.) Take large smooth-rinded Malaga lemons; race or cut off their peel into chips with a small knife (this will require some practice to do it properly); throw them into salt and water till next day; have ready a pan of boiling water, throw them in and boil them tender. Drain them well: after having lain some time in water to cool, put them in an earthen pan, pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to cover them, and then let them lie two days; then strain the syrup, put more sugar, and reduce it by boiling till the syrup is quite thick; put in the chips, and simmer them a few minutes, and set them by for two days: repeat it once more; let them be two days longer, and they will be fit to candy, which must be done as follows: take four pints of clarified sugar, which will be sufficient for six pounds of chips, boil it to the degree of _blown_ (which may be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, and blowing strongly through the holes of it; if little bladders appear, it has attained that degree); and when the chips are thoroughly drained and wiped on a clean cloth, put them into the syrup, stirring them about with the skimmer till you see the sugar become white; then take them out with two forks; shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them into a stove, or in a warm place to dry. N.B. Orange chips are done in the same way. _Dried Cherries._--(No. 95.) Take large Kentish cherries, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and take out the stones with a quill, cut nearly as for a pen: to three pounds of which take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar--(see No. 475,) boil it to the degree of blown (for which see last receipt); put in the cherries, give them a boil, and set them by in an earthen pan till the next day; then strain the syrup, add more sugar, and boil it of a good consistence; put the cherries in, and boil them five minutes, and set them by another day: repeat the boiling two more days, and when wanted, drain them some time, and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove, or nearly cold oven. _Green Gages preserved in Syrup._--(No. 96.) Take the gages when nearly ripe; cut the stalks about half an inch from the fruit; put them into cold water, with a lump of alum about the size of a walnut; and set them on a slow fire till they come to a simmer: take them from the fire, and put them into cold water; drain, and pack them close into a preserving-pan; pour over them enough clarified sugar to cover them; simmer them two or three minutes; set them by in an earthen pan till next day, when drain the gages, and boil the syrup with more sugar, till quite thick; put in the gages, and simmer them three minutes more, and repeat it for two days; then boil clarified sugar to a blow, as at No. 94, place the gages into glasses, and pour the syrup over, and, when cold, tie over a bladder, and upon that a leather; and should you want any for drying, drain and dry them on a wire sieve in a stove or slow oven. Apricots or egg plums may be done in the same way. _To preserve Ginger._--(No. 97.) Take green ginger, pare it neatly with a sharp knife; throw it into a pan of cold water as it is pared, to keep it white; when you have sufficient, boil it till tender, changing the water three times; each time put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of the ginger; when tender, throw it into cold water: for seven pounds of ginger, clarify eight pounds of refined sugar, see No. 475; when cold, drain the ginger, and put it in an earthen pan, with enough of the sugar, cold, to cover it, and let it stand two days; then pour the syrup from the ginger to the remainder of the sugar; boil it some time, and when cold, pour it on the ginger again, and set it by three days at least. Then take the syrup from the ginger; boil it, and put it hot over the ginger; proceed in this way till you find the sugar has entered the ginger, boiling the syrup, and skimming off the scum that rises each time, until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger. _Obs._--If you put the syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the ginger will shrink, and not take the sugar. N.B. When green ginger is not to be procured, take large races of Jamaica ginger boiled several times in water till tender, pare neatly, and proceed as above. _To preserve Cucumbers._--(No. 98.) Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers; split them down and take out all the seeds; lay them in salt and water that will bear an egg, three days; set them on a fire with cold water, and a small lump of alum, and boil them a few minutes, or till tender; drain them, and pour on them a thin syrup; let them lie two days; boil the syrup again, and put it over the cucumbers; repeat it twice more; then have ready some fresh clarified sugar, boiled to a blow (see No. 94); put in the cucumbers, and simmer it five minutes; set it by till next day; boil the syrup and cucumbers again, and set them in glasses for use. _Preserved Fruit, without Sugar._--(No. 99.) Take damsons when not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and put them into wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not to put in any but what are whole, and without blemish; shake them well down (otherwise the bottles will not be half full when done); stop the bottles with new soft corks, not too tight; set them into a very slow oven (nearly cold) four or five hours; the slower they are done the better; when they begin to shrink in the bottles, it is a sure sign that the fruit is thoroughly warm: take them out, and before they are cold, drive in the corks quite tight; set them in a bottle-rack or basket, with the mouth downwards, and they will keep good several years. Green gooseberries, morello cherries, currants, green gages, or bullace, may be done the same way. _Obs._--If the corks are good, and fit well, there will be no occasion for cementing them; but should bungs be used, it will be necessary. _Bread._--(No. 100.) Put a quartern of flour into a large basin, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt; make a hole in the middle; then put in a basin four table-spoonfuls, of good yest; stir in a pint of milk, lukewarm; put it in the hole of the flour; stir it just to make it of a thin batter; then strew a little flour over the top; then set it on one side of the fire, and cover it over: let it stand till the next morning; then make it into dough; add half a pint more of warm milk; knead it for ten minutes, and then set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and a half; then knead it again, and it is ready either for loaves or bricks: bake them from one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size. _French Bread and Rolls._--(No. 100*.) Take a pint and a half of milk; make it quite warm; half a pint of small-beer yest; add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter; put it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen as high as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm water, and half an ounce of salt,--mix them well together;--rub into a little flour two ounces of butter; then make your dough, not quite so stiff as for your bread; let it stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be ready to make into rolls, &c.: let them stand till they have risen, and bake them in a quick oven. SALLY LUNN.--_Tea Cakes._--(No. 101.) Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest; put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it as thick as batter,--cover it over, and let it stand till it has risen as high as it will, _i. e._ about two hours: add two ounces of lump sugar, dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk,[391-*] a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed into your flour very fine; then make your dough the same as for French rolls, &c.; and let it stand half an hour; then make up your cakes, and put them on tins: when they have stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven. Care should be taken never to put your yest to water or milk too hot, or too cold, as either extreme will destroy the fermentation. In summer it should be lukewarm, in winter a little warmer, and in very cold weather, warmer still. When it has first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not hurt to stand an hour. _Muffins._--(No. 102.) Take one pint of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest; strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to make it like a batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and one ounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together: then add sufficient flour to make it into dough, cover it over, and let it stand half an hour; then work it up again, and break it into small pieces: roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter of an hour; then bake them. _Crumpets._--(No. 103.) The same: instead of making the mixture into dough, add only sufficient flour to make a thick batter, and when it has stood a quarter of an hour it will be ready to bake. Muffins and crumpets bake best on a stove with an iron plate fixed on the top; but they will also bake in a frying-pan, taking care the fire is not too fierce, and turning them when lightly browned. _Yorkshire Cakes._--(No. 104.) Take a pint and a half of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest; mix them well together in a pan with sufficient flour to make a thick batter; let it stand in a warm place covered over until it has risen as high as it will; rub six ounces of butter into some flour till it is quite fine; then break three eggs into your pan with the flour and butter; mix them well together; then add sufficient flour to make it into a dough, and let it stand a quarter of an hour; then work it up-again, and break it into pieces about the size of an egg, or larger, as you may fancy; roll them round and smooth with your hand, and put them on tins, and let them stand covered over with a light piece of flannel. FOOTNOTES: [376-*] The goodness of a cake or biscuit depends much on its being well baked; great attention should be paid to the different degrees of heat of the oven: be sure to have it of a good sound heat at first, when, after its being well cleaned out, may be baked such articles as require a hot oven, after which such as are directed to be baked in a well-heated or moderate oven; and, lastly, those in a slow soaking or cool one. With a little care the above degrees may soon be known. In making butter cakes, such as Nos. 55, 57, or 61, too much attention cannot be paid to have the butter well creamed; for should it be made too warm, it would, cause the mixture to be the same, and when put to bake, the fruit, sweetmeats, &c. would, in that event, fall to the bottom. Yest cakes should be well proved before put into the oven, as they will prove but little afterward. In making biscuits and cakes where butter is not used, the different utensils should be kept free from all kinds of grease, or it is next to impossible to have good ones. In buttering the insides of cake-moulds, the butter should be nicely clarified, and when nearly cold, laid on quite smooth, with a small brush kept for that purpose. Sugar and flour should be quite dry, and a drum sieve is recommended for the sugar. The old way of beating the yelks and whites of eggs separate (except in very few cases), is not only useless, but a waste of time. They should be well incorporated with the other ingredients, and, in some instances, they cannot be beaten too much. [378-*] Take fine brown Holland, and make a bag in the form of a cone, about five inches over at the top. Cut a small hole at the bottom, and tie in a small pipe of a tapering form, about two inches long; and the bore must be large or small, according to the size of the biscuits or cakes to be made. When the various mixtures are put in, lay the pipe close to the paper, and press it out in rows. Some use a bullock's bladder for the purpose. [379-*] A wide-mouthed earthen pan, made quite hot in the oven, or on a fire, will be a good substitute. [391-*] If you do not mind the expense, the cake will be much lighter if, instead of the milk, you put four eggs. OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PIES. The quality of the various articles employed in the composition of puddings and pies varies so much, that two puddings, made exactly according to the same receipt, will be so different[392-*] one would hardly suppose they were made by the same person, and certainly not with precisely the same quantities of the (apparently) same ingredients. Flour fresh ground, pure new milk, fresh laid eggs, fresh butter, fresh suet, &c. will make a very different composition, than when kept till each article is half spoiled. Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool place in the cloth they are boiled in, will keep good some months; when wanted, take them out of the cloth, and put them into a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed through, they are ready. MEM.--In composing these receipts, the quantities of eggs, butter, &c. are considerably less than are ordered in other cookery books; but quite sufficient for the purpose of making the puddings light and wholesome;--we have diminished the expense, without impoverishing the preparations; and the rational epicure will be as well pleased with them as the rational economist. Milk, in its genuine state, varies considerably in the quantity of cream it will throw up, depending on the material with which the cow is fed. The cow that gives the most milk does not always produce the most cream, which varies fifteen or twenty per cent. Eggs vary considerably in size; in the following receipts we mean the full-sized hen's egg; if you have only pullet's eggs, use two for one. Break eggs one by one into a basin, and not all into the bowl together; because then, if you meet with a bad one, that will spoil all the rest: strain them through a sieve to take out the treddles. N.B. To preserve eggs for twelve months, see N.B. to No. 547. Snow, and small beer, have been recommended by some economists as admirable substitutes for eggs; they will no more answer this purpose than as substitutes for sugar or brandy. Flour, according to that champion against adulteration, Mr. Accum, varies in quality as much as any thing. Butter also varies much in quality. Salt butter may be washed from the salt, and then it will make very good pastry. Lard varies extremely from the time it is kept, &c. When you purchase it, have the bladder cut, and ascertain that it be sweet and good. Suet. Beef is the best, then mutton and veal; when this is used in very hot weather, while you chop it, dredge it lightly with a little flour. Beef-marrow is excellent for most of the purposes for which suet is employed. Drippings, especially from beef, when very clean and nice, are frequently used for kitchen crusts and pies, and for such purposes are a satisfactory substitute for butter, lard, &c. To clean and preserve drippings, see No. 83. Currants, previous to putting them into the pudding, should be plumped: this is done by pouring some boiling water upon them: wash them well, and then lay them on a sieve or cloth before the fire, pick them clean from the stones;--this not only makes them look better, but cleanses them from all dirt. Raisins, figs, dried cherries, candied orange and lemon-peel, citron, and preserves of all kinds, fresh fruits, gooseberries, currants, plums, damsons, &c. are added to batter and suet puddings, or enclosed in the crust ordered for apple dumplings, and make all the various puddings called by those names. Batter puddings must be quite smooth and free from lumps; to ensure this, first mix the flour with a little milk, add the remainder by degrees, and then the other ingredients. If it is a plain pudding, put it through a hair-sieve; this will take out all lumps effectually. Batter puddings should be tied up tight: if boiled in a mould, butter it first; if baked, also butter the pan. Be sure the water boils before you put in the pudding; set your stew-pan on a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily boiling all the time;--if set upon the fire, the pudding often burns. Be scrupulously careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly sweet and clean; wash it without any soap, unless very greasy; then rinse it thoroughly in clean water after. Immediately before you use it, dip it in boiling water; squeeze it dry, and dredge it with flour. If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the puddings every now and then to keep them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan; if in a mould, this care is not so much required, but keep plenty of water in the saucepan. When puddings are boiled in a cloth, it should be just dipped in a basin of cold water, before you untie the pudding-cloth, as that will prevent it from sticking; but when boiled in a mould, if it is well buttered, they will turn out without. Custard or bread puddings require to stand five minutes before they are turned out. They should always be boiled in a mould or cups. Keep your paste-board, rolling-pin, cutters, and tins very clean: the least dust on the tins and cutters, or the least hard paste on the rolling-pin, will spoil the whole of your labour. Things used for pastry or cakes should not be used for any other purpose; be very careful that your flour is dried at the fire before you use it, for puff paste or cakes; if damp it will make them heavy. In using butter for puff paste, you should take the greatest care to previously work it well on the paste-board or slab, to get out all the water and buttermilk, which very often remains in; when you have worked it well with a clean knife, dab it over with a soft cloth, and it is then ready to lay on your paste; do not make your paste over stiff before you put in your butter. For those who do not understand making puff paste, it is by far the best way to work the butter in at two separate times, divide it in half, and break the half in little bits, and cover your paste all over: dredge it lightly with flour, then fold it over each side and ends, roll it out quite thin, and then put in the rest of the butter, fold it, and roll it again. Remember always to roll puff paste from you. The best made paste, if not properly baked, will not do the cook any credit. Those who use iron ovens do not always succeed in baking puff paste, fruit pies, &c. Puff paste is often spoiled by baking it after fruit pies, in an iron oven. This may be easily avoided, by putting two or three bricks that are quite even into the oven before it is first set to get hot. This will not only prevent the syrup from boiling put of the pies, but also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen and house, and almost answers the same purpose as a brick oven. _College Puddings._--(No. 105.) Beat four eggs, yelks and whites together, in a quart basin, with two ounces of flour, half a nutmeg, a little ginger, and three ounces of sugar; pounded loaf sugar is best. Beat it into a smooth batter; then add six ounces of suet, chopped fine, six of currants, well washed and picked; mix it all well together; a glass of brandy or white wine will improve it. These puddings are generally fried in butter or lard; but they are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans; twenty minutes will bake them: if fried, fry them till they are of a nice light brown, and when fried, roll them in a little flour. You may add one ounce of orange or citron, minced very fine; when you bake them, add one more egg, or two spoonfuls of milk. Serve them up with white wine sauce. _Rice Puddings baked, or boiled._--(No. 106.) Wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of rice, put it in a quart stew-pan three parts filled with cold water, set it on the fire, and let it boil five minutes; pour away the water, and put in one quart of milk, a roll of lemon peel, and a bit of cinnamon; let it boil gently till the rice is quite tender; it will take at least one hour and a quarter; be careful to stir it every five minutes; take it off the fire, and stir in an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and beat up three eggs on a plate, a salt-spoonful of nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it into the pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth; line a pie-dish big enough to hold it with puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in your pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour: this will be a nice firm pudding. If you like it to eat more like custard, add one more egg, and half a pint more milk; it will be better a little thinner when boiled; one hour will boil it. If you like it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups, and either bake or boil them, half an hour will do either: you may vary the pudding by putting in candied lemon or orange-peel, minced very fine, or dried cherries, or three ounces of currants, or raisins, or apples minced fine. If the puddings are baked or boiled, serve them with white-wine sauce, or butter and sugar. _Ground Rice Pudding._--(No. 107.) Put four ounces of ground rice into a stew-pan, and by degrees stir in a pint and a half of milk; set it on the fire, with a roll of lemon and a bit of cinnamon; keep stirring it till it boils; beat it to a smooth batter; then set it on the trivet, where it will simmer gently for a quarter of an hour; then beat three eggs on a plate, stir them into the pudding with two ounces of sugar and two drachms of nutmeg, take out the lemon-peel and cinnamon, stir it all well together, line a pie-dish with thin puff paste (No. 1 of receipts for pastry), big enough to hold it, or butter the dish well, and bake it half an hour; if boiled, it will take one hour in a mould well buttered; three ounces of currants may be added. _Rice Snow Balls._--(No. 108.) Wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it on in a saucepan with plenty of water; when it boils let it boil ten minutes, drain it on a sieve till it is quite dry, and then pare six apples, weighing two ounces and a half each. Divide the rice into six parcels, in separate cloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose, and boil it one hour; serve it with sugar and butter, or wine sauce. _Rice Blancmange._--(No. 109.) Put a tea-cupful of whole rice into the least water possible, till it almost bursts; then add half a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boil it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole time it is on the fire, that it may not burn; dip a shape in cold water, and do not dry it; put in the rice, and let it stand until quite cold, when it will come easily out of the shape. This dish is much approved of; it is eaten with cream or custard, and preserved fruits; raspberries are best. It should be made the day before it is wanted, that it may get firm. This blancmange will eat much nicer, flavoured with spices, lemon-peel, &c., and sweetened with a little loaf sugar, add it with the milk, and take out the lemon-peel before you put in the mould. _Save-all Pudding._--(No. 110.) Put any scraps of bread into a clean saucepan; to about a pound, put a pint of milk; set it on the trivet till it boils; beat it up quite smooth; then break in three eggs, three ounces of sugar, with a little nutmeg, ginger, or allspice, and stir it all well together. Butter a dish big enough to hold it, put in the pudding, and have ready two ounces of suet chopped very fine, strew it over the top of the pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour; four ounces of currants will make it much better. _Batter Pudding, baked or boiled._--(No. 111.) Break three eggs in a basin with as much salt as will lie on a sixpence; beat them well together, and then add four ounces of flour; beat it into a smooth batter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk: have your saucepan ready boiling, and butter an earthen mould well, put the pudding in, and tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth, and boil it one hour and a quarter. Or, put it in a dish that you have well buttered, and bake it three quarters of an hour. Currants washed and picked clean, or raisins stoned, are good in this pudding, and it is then called a black cap: or, add loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg and ginger without the fruit,--it is very good that way; serve it with wine sauce. _Apple Pudding boiled._--(No. 112.) Chop four ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping; but the suet makes the best and lightest crust; put it on the paste-board, with eight ounces of flour, and a salt-spoonful of salt, mix it well together with your hands, and then put it all of a heap, and make a hole in the middle; break one egg in it, stir it well together with your finger, and by degrees infuse as much water as will make it of a stiff paste: roll it out two or three times, with the rolling-pin, and then roll it large enough to receive thirteen ounces of apples. It will look neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, than when boiled in a pudding-cloth, well floured; boil it an hour and three quarters: but the surest way is to stew the apples first in a stew-pan, with a wine-glassful of water, and then one hour will boil it. Some people like it flavoured with cloves and lemon-peel, and sweeten it with two ounces of sugar. Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and cherries, damsons, and various plums and fruits, are made into puddings with the same crust directed for apple puddings. _Apple Dumplings._--(No. 113.) Make paste the same as for apple pudding, divide it into as many pieces as you want dumplings, peel the apples and core them, then roll out your paste large enough, and put in the apples; close it all round, and tie them in pudding-cloths very tight; one hour will boil them: and when you take them up, just dip them in cold water, and put them in a cup the size of the dumpling while you untie them, and they will turn out without breaking. _Suet Pudding or Dumplings._--(No. 114.) Chop six ounces of suet very fine: put it in a basin with six ounces of flour, two ounces of bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of salt; stir it all well together: beat two eggs on a plate, add to them six table-spoonfuls of milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and stir it all well together; divide it into six dumplings, and tie them separate, previously dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil them one hour. This is very good the next day fried in a little butter. The above will make a good pudding, boiled in an earthenware mould, with the addition of one more egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of suet. Boil it two hours. N.B. The most economical way of making suet dumplings, is to boil them without a cloth in a pot with beef or mutton; no eggs are then wanted, and the dumplings are quite as light without: roll them in flour before you put them into the pot; add six ounces of currants, washed and picked, and you have currant pudding: or divided into six parts, currant dumplings; a little sugar will improve them. _Cottage Potato Pudding or Cake._--(No. 115.) Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of pounds of potatoes: beat them up into a smooth batter, with about three quarters of a pint of milk, two ounces of moist sugar, and two or three beaten eggs. Bake it about three quarters of an hour. Three ounces of currants or raisins may be added. Leave out the milk, and add three ounces of butter,--it will make a very nice cake. FOOTNOTES: [392-*] An old gentlewoman, who lived almost entirely on puddings, told us, it was a long time before she could get them made uniformly good, till she made the following rule:--"If the pudding was good, she let the cook have the remainder of it; if it was not, she gave it to her lapdog;" but as soon as this resolution was known, poor little Bow-wow seldom got the sweet treat after. OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES. We are not fond of pickles: these sponges of vinegar are often very indigestible, especially in the crisp state in which they are most admired. The Indian fashion of pounding pickles is an excellent one: we recommend those who have any regard for their stomach, yet still wish to indulge their tongue, instead of eating pickles, which are really merely vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice, &c. to use the flavoured vinegars; such as burnet (No. 399), horseradish (No. 399*), tarragon (No. 396), mint (No. 397), cress (Nos. 397*, 401, 403, 405*, 453, 457), &c.; by combinations of these, a relish may easily be composed, exactly in harmony with the palate of the eater. The pickle made to preserve cucumbers, &c. is generally so strongly impregnated with garlic, mustard, and spice, &c. that the original flavour of the vegetables is quite overpowered; and if the eater shuts his eyes, his lingual nerves will be puzzled to inform him whether he is munching an onion or a cucumber, &c., and nothing can be more absurd, than to pickle plums, peaches, apricots, currants, grapes, &c. The strongest vinegar must be used for pickling: it must not be boiled or the strength of the vinegar and spices will be evaporated. By parboiling the pickles in brine, they will be ready in much less time than they are when done in the usual manner, of soaking them in cold salt and water for six or eight days. When taken out of the hot brine, let them get cold and quite dry before you put them into the pickle. To assist the preservation of pickles, a portion of salt is added; and for the same purpose, and to give flavour, long pepper, black pepper, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, garlic, eschalots, mustard, horseradish, and capsicum. The following is the best method of preparing the pickle, as cheap as any, and requires less care than any other way. Bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above spices; put them into a stone jar with a quart of the strongest vinegar, stop the jar closely with a bung, cover that with a bladder soaked with pickle, set it on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, well shaking it up at least three times in the day; the pickle should be at least three inches above the pickles. The jar being well closed, and the infusion being made with a mild heat, there is no loss by evaporation. To enable the articles pickled more easily and speedily to imbibe the flavour of the pickle they are immersed in, previously to pouring it on them, run a larding-pin through them in several places. The spices, &c. commonly used, are those mentioned in the receipt for pickling walnuts; which is also an excellent savoury sauce for cold meats. The flavour may be varied _ad infinitum_ by adding celery, cress-seed, or curry powder (No. 455), or by taking for the liquor any of the flavoured vinegars, &c. we have enumerated above, and see the receipts between Nos. 395 and 421. Pickles should be kept in a dry place, in unglazed earthenware, or glass jars, which are preferable, as you can, without opening them, observe whether they want filling up: they must be very carefully stopped with well-fitted bungs, and tied over as closely as possible with a bladder wetted with the pickle; and if to be preserved a long time, after that is dry, it must be dipped in bottle-cement; see page 127. When the pickles are all used, boil up the liquor with a little fresh spice. To walnut liquor may be added a few anchovies and eschalots: let it stand till it is quite clear, and bottle it: thus you may furnish your table with an excellent savoury keeping sauce for hashes, made dishes, fish, &c. at very small cost; see No. 439. Jars should not be more than three parts filled with the articles pickled, which should be covered with pickle at least two inches above their surface; the liquor wastes, and all of the articles pickled, that are not covered, are soon spoiled. When they have been done about a week, open the jars, and fill them up with pickle. Tie a wooden spoon, full of holes, round each jar to take them out with. If you wish to have gherkins, &c. very green, this may be easily accomplished by keeping them in vinegar, sufficiently hot, till they become so. If you wish cauliflowers, onions, &c. to be white, use distilled vinegar for them. To entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action of the acid upon the metallic utensils usually employed to prepare pickles, the whole of the process is directed to be performed in unglazed stone jars. N.B. The maxim of "open your mouth, and shut your eyes," cannot be better applied than to pickles; and the only direction we have to record for the improvement of their complexion, is the joke of Dr. Goldsmith, "If their colour does not please you, send 'em to Hammersmith, that's the way to Turnham Green." Commencing the list with walnuts, I must take this opportunity of impressing the necessity of being strictly particular in watching the due season; for of all the variety of articles in this department to furnish the well-regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious, for frequently after the first week that walnuts come in season, they become hard and shelled, particularly if the season is a very hot one; therefore let the prudent housekeeper consider it indispensably necessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear at market; should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing compared to the disappointment of finding, six months hence, when you go to your pickle-jar, expecting a fine relish for your chops, &c. to find the nuts incased in a shell, which defies both teeth and steel. Nasturtiums are to be had by the middle of July. Garlic, from Midsummer to Michaelmas. Eschalots, ditto. Onions, the various kinds for pickling, are to be had, by the middle of July, and for a month after. Gherkins are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. Cucumbers are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. Melons and mangoes are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. Capsicums, green, red, and yellow, the end of July, and following month. Chilies, the end of July, and following month. See Nos. 404 and 405*, and No. 406. Love apples, or tomatas, end of July, and throughout August. See No. 443. Cauliflower, for pickling, July and August. Artichokes, for pickling, July and August. Jerusalem artichokes, for pickling, July and August, and for three months after. Radish pods, for pickling, July. French beans, for pickling, July. Mushrooms, for pickling and catchup, September. See No. 439. Red cabbage, August. White cabbage, September and October. Samphire, August. Horseradish, November and December. _Walnuts._--(No. 116.) Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; put the walnuts into this to soak for a week; or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for eating, run a larding-pin through them in half a dozen places--this will allow the pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of better flavour, and ready much sooner than if not perforated: put them into a stew-pan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put them on a sieve to drain; then lay them on a fish plate, and let them stand in the air till they turn black--this may take a couple of days; put them into glass, or unglazed stone jars; fill these about three parts with the walnuts, and fill them up with the following pickle. To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper, one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce of allspice, and half a drachm of Cayenne. Put these into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that some leather, and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the walnuts, and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle, leather, &c. _Gherkins._--(No. 117.) Get those of about four inches long, and an inch in diameter, the crude half-grown little gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing. Put them into (unglazed) stone pans; cover them with a brine of salt and water, made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; cover them down; set them on the earth before the fire for two or three days till they begin to turn yellow; then put away the water, and cover them with hot vinegar; set them again before the fire; keep them hot till they become green (this will take eight or ten days); then pour off the vinegar, having ready to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar, &c., the same as directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts (leaving out the eschalots); cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. Read the observations on pickles, p. 487. _Obs._--The vinegar the gherkins were greened in will make excellent salad sauce, or for cold meats. It is, in fact, superlative cucumber vinegar. _French Beans--Nasturtiums, &c._--(No. 118.) When young, and most other small green vegetables, may be pickled the same way as gherkins. _Beet Roots._--(No. 119.) Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take from an hour and a half to two and a half); then take them out, and when a little cooled, peel them, and cut them in slices about half an inch thick. Have ready a pickle for it, made by adding to each a quart of vinegar an ounce of ground black pepper, half an ounce of ginger pounded, same of salt, and of horseradish cut in thin slices; and you may warm it, if you like, with a few capsicums, or a little Cayenne; put these ingredients into a jar; stop it close, and let them steep three days on a trivet by the side of the fire; then, when cold, pour the clear liquor on the beet-root, which have previously arranged in a jar. _Red Cabbage._--(No. 120.) Get a fine purple cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter it, take out the stalk, shred the leaves into a colander, sprinkle them with salt, let them remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put them into a jar, and cover them with the pickle for beet roots. _Onions._--(No. 121.) The small round silver button onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make a very nice pickle. Take off their top coats, have ready a stew-pan, three parts filled with boiling water, into which put as many onions as will cover the top: as soon as they look clear, immediately take them up with a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times folded, and cover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish: when they are quite dry, put them into jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of allspice, and same of black pepper, and same of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar, in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, keeping it well closed; when cold, bung them down tight, and cover them with bladder wetted with the pickle and leather. _Cauliflowers or Broccoli._--(No. 122.) Choose those that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leaves and stalks. Set on a stew-pan half full of water, salted in proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; throw in the cauliflower, and let it heat gradually; when it boils take it up with a spoon full of holes, and spread them on a cloth to dry before the fire, for twenty-four hours at least; when quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with the pickle we have directed for beet roots, or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of the curry powder (No. 455) for three days in a quart of vinegar by the side of the fire. Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above. _Indian or mixed Pickles--Mango or Piccalilli._--(No. 123.) The flavouring ingredients of Indian pickles are a compound of curry powder, with a large proportion of mustard and garlic. The following will be found something like the real mango pickle, especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each gallon of the strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder (No. 455), same of flour of mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of salad oil), three of ginger bruised, and two of turmeric, half a pound (when skinned) of eschalots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces of garlic prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and two drachms of Cayenne pepper. Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wetted with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during three days, shaking it up three times a day; it will then be ready to receive gherkins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions, cauliflowers, celery, broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, and small green melons. The latter must be slit in the middle sufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the seeds; then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry them, and fill them with mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic, and bind the melon round with packthread. Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner. Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian mango. The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting the capsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; taken out and drained, and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun, on a stove, or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put into the pickle. Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage and walnuts. It will keep several years. _Obs._--To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity of mustard-seed oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in our salad sauces. HOUSEKEEPERS' MANUAL. VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS. _To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is drawn._ Put a piece of toasted bread into it, and it will preserve the spirit for twelve hours after, in a very considerable degree. _To clean Plate._ _First._--Take care that your plate is quite free from grease. _Second._--Take some whitening mixed with water, and a sponge, rub it well on the plate, which will take the tarnish off; if it is very bad, repeat the whitening and water several times, making use of a brush, not too hard, to clean the intricate parts. _Third._--Take some rouge-powder, mix it with water to about the thickness of cream, and with a small piece of leather (which should be kept for that purpose only) apply the rouge, which, with the addition of a little "Elbow Grease," will, in a short time, produce a most beautiful polish. N.B.--The rouge-powder may be had at all the silversmiths and jewellers. _Obs._--The above is the actual manner in which silversmiths clean their plate, and was given to me by a respectable tradesman. _The common Method of cleaning Plate._ First wash it well with soap and warm water; when perfectly dry, mix together a little whitening and sweet oil, so as to make a soft paste; then take a piece of flannel, rub it on the plate; then with a leather, and plenty of dry whitening, rub it clean off again; then, with a clean leather and a brush, finish it. _Varnish for Oil Paintings._ According to the number of your pictures, take the whites of the same number of eggs, and an equal number of pieces of sugar candy, the size of a hazel nut, dissolved, and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy; beat the whites of your eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take the clear, put it to your brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and varnish over your pictures with it. This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed off when your pictures want cleaning again. _Method of cleaning Paper-Hangings._ Cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf, two days old; it must neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completely cleaned all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping stroke downwards, always commencing each successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new. Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross, or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as it may become necessary. _To make_ WOODEN _Stairs have the appearance of_ STONE. Paint the stairs, step by step, with white paint, mixed with strong drying oil. Strew it thick with silver sand. It ought to be thoroughly dry next morning, when the loose sand is to be swept off. The painting and sanding is to be repeated, and when dry, the surface is to be done over with pipe-clay, whiting, and water; which may be boiled in an old saucepan, and laid on with a bit of flannel, not too thick, otherwise it will be apt to scale off. A penny cake of pipe-clay, which must be scraped, is the common proportion to half a lump of whiting. The pipe-clay and whiting is generally; applied once a week, but that might be done only as occasion requires. _French Polish._ Take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic; pick the dirt and black lumps out very carefully, and pound them in a mortar quite fine; put them into a bottle, and add to them a quartern (old measure) of strong spirit of wine; cork it down and put it in a warm place; shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dissolved, which will be in about twenty-four hours. Before using it, be careful to ascertain that no _grease_ is on the furniture, as _grease_ would prevent its receiving the polish. If the furniture has been previously cleaned with bees'-wax or oil, it must be got off by scraping, which is the best way, but difficult to those who do not perfectly understand it, because if you are not very careful, you may scratch the surface, and create more expense than a workman would charge to do it properly at first. Or it may be done by scouring well with sand and water, and afterward rubbed quite smooth with fine glass paper, being careful to do it with the grain of the wood. To apply the polish, you must have a piece of list or cloth twisted, and tied round quite tight, and left even at one end, which should be covered with a piece of fine linen cloth; then pour a little of the polish on the furniture, and rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain of the wood, and begins to look quite smooth; then take a soft fine cloth, or what is better, an old silk handkerchief, and keep rubbing lightly until the polish is complete, which will take two or three hours. It will greatly help the polish if it is done near a fire. If it does not look so smooth and clear as it should, a little sweet oil rubbed lightly over, and cleaned off directly, will greatly heighten it. If any part of the furniture has carving about it, where it will be impossible to polish, it must be done with mastic varnish, and a camel's hair brush, after the rest is finished. When the polish begins to look dull, it may be recovered with a little spirit of wine. _Polish for Dining Tables_, Is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil, thus:--put a little in the middle of a table, and then with a piece of linen (never use woollen) cloth rub it well all over the table; then take another piece of linen, and rub it for ten minutes, then rub it till quite dry with another cloth. This must be done every day for several months, when you will find your mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre, unattainable by any other means, and equal to the finest French polish; and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only, the hottest dishes will make no impression upon it: and when once this polish is produced, it will only require dry rubbing with a linen cloth for about ten minutes twice in a week, to preserve it in the highest perfection; which never fails to please your employers; and remember, that to please others is always the surest way to profit yourself. If the appearance must be more immediately produced, take some FURNITURE PASTE. _To prevent disagreeable Smells from Sinks, &c._ The disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water, and the various ungrateful odours which arise from the sink of kitchens, drains, &c., are not only an unnecessary nuisance to the good folks of the second table, but we believe such miasm is not an uncommon cause of putrid fevers, &c. &c. It cannot be too generally known, that a cheap and simple apparatus has been contrived for carrying off the waste water, &c. from sinks, which at the same time effectually prevents any air returning back from thence, or from any drain connected therewith. This is known by the name of Stink Trap, and costs about five shillings. No kitchen sink should be without it. _To prevent Moths._ In the month of April beat your fur garments well with a small cane or elastic stick, then lap them up in linen without pressing the fur too hard, and put between the folds some camphor in small lumps; then put your furs in this state in boxes well closed. When the furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, and expose them for twenty-four hours to the air, which will take away the smell of the camphor. If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor an equal quantity of black pepper in powder. _Paste._ To make common paste, mix one table-spoonful of flour with one of cold water, stir it well together, and add two more table-spoonfuls of water; set it over the fire and give it a boil, stirring it all the time, or it will burn at the bottom of the saucepan. OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING. "'Have you learned to carve?' for it is ridiculous not to carve well. "A man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve, may as well tell you that he cannot feed himself; it is both as necessary and as easy."--Lord CHESTERFIELD'S _211th Letter_. Next to giving a good dinner, is treating our friends with hospitality and attention, and this attention is what young people have to learn. Experience will teach them in time, but till they acquire it, they will appear ungraceful and awkward. Although the _art of carving_ is one of the most necessary accomplishments of a gentleman, it is little known but to those who have long been accustomed to it; a more useful or acceptable present cannot be offered to the public than to lay before them a book calculated to teach the rising generation how to acquit themselves amiably in this material part of the duties of the table. Young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy of the banquet, beyond the suggestion of their own whims and caprices; and cut up things not only carelessly, but wastefully, until they learn the pleasure of paying butchers' and poulterers' bills on their own account. Young housekeepers, unaccustomed to carving, will, with the help of the following instructions, soon be enabled to carve with ease and elegance; taking care also to observe, as occasion may offer, the manner in which a skilful operator sets about his task, when a joint or fowl is placed before him. It has been said, that you may judge of a person's character by his handwriting; you may judge of his conscience by his carving. Fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good nature than fair writing: let me see how a gentleman carves at another person's table, especially how he helps himself, and I will presently tell you how far he is of Pope's opinion, that "True self-love and social are the same." The selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more unmasked and more disgusting manner than in the use they excite a man to make of his knife and fork in carving for himself, especially when not at his own cost. Some keen observer of human nature has said, "Would you know a man's real disposition, ask him to dinner, and give him plenty to drink." "The Oracle" says, "invite the gentleman to dinner, certainly, and set him to carving." The gentleman who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitations to the board of hospitality, may calculate with Cockerial correctness, that "the easier he appears to be pleased, the oftener he will be invited." Instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair hostess, that the prime "tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate, he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even content,) with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness, whatever is presented to him; and let him not forget to praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleased with her performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto him even as praise to the mistress." "If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with the reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification again. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion, will forbid his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. If he like it ever so little, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner; and consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the following meal, and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of his gourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents." The following extract from that rare book, GILES ROSE'S _School for the Officers of the Mouth_, 16mo. 1684, shows that the art of carving was a much more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present. LE GRAND ESCUVER TRANCHANT, _or the Great Master Carver_. "The exercise of a master carver is more noble and commendable, it may be, than every one will imagine; for suppose that life to be the foundation of all that is done in the world, this life is not to be sustained without maintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking." Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver, or place him within reach of any principal dish. I shall never forget the following exhibition of a selfish spoiled child: the first dish that Master Johnny mangled, was three mackerel; he cut off the upper side of each fish: next came a couple of fowls; in taking off the wings of which the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled every other part, that when they were brought for luncheon the following day, they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats, rather than having been carved by a rational creature. When the master of the family, who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning, in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a "Nice bit of chicken For his own private picking," no sooner had he put on his specs, and begun to focus his fowl, than he suddenly started up, rang for the cook, and after having vociferated at her carelessness, and lectured her for being so extremely perfunctory and disorderly in not keeping the cat out of the cupboard, till his appetite for scolding was pretty well satisfied, he paused for her apology: the guardian genius of the pantry, to his extreme astonishment, informed him, that his suspicions concerning the hideous appearance which had so shocked him, was erroneous: such unsightly havoc was not occasioned by the epicurism of a _four_-legged brute, and that the fowls were exactly in the same state they came from the table, and that young Master Johnny had cut them up himself. Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good example to their friends at the second table. If they cut bread, meat, cheese, &c. fairly, it will go twice as far as if hacked and mangled by some sensualists, who appear to have less consideration for their domestics than a good sportsman for his dogs. A prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving out in equal division, and regulate his helps by the proportion his dish bears to the number it is to be divided among, and considering the quantum of appetite the several guests are presumed to possess. If you have a bird, or other delicacy at table, which cannot be apportioned out to all as you wish, when cut up, let it be handed round by a servant; modesty will then prompt the guests to take but a small portion, and such as perhaps could not be offered to them without disrespect. Those chop-house cormorants who "Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat," are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and fishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitely amiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves the dainties[412-*] which it is the peculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to them the most pleasant part of the business of the banquet; the pleasure of helping their friends is the gratification which is their reward for the trouble they have had in preparing the feast: such gentry are the terror of all good housewives; to obtain their favourite cut they will so unmercifully mangle your joints, that a lady's dainty lapdog would hardly get a meal from them afterward; but which, if managed by the considerative hands of an old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a large family. The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes the worst out of the dish, and gets of every thing (unless it be forced upon him) always the most indifferent fare by this civility, the best remains for others; which being a compliment to all that are present, every body will be pleased with it; the more they love themselves, the more they are forced to approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they are obliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favourably of him. After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in the esteem of all the companies he comes in; and if he gets nothing else by it, the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which he knows is secretly given him, is to a proud man more than equivalent for his former self-denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the loss it sustained in his complaisance to others. If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among people of ceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is prevailed on to choose first, will take that which, if there be any considerable difference, a child would know to be the worst. This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is with to be of superior merit; and that there is not one whom he does not love better than himself. Custom and general practice make this modish deceit familiar to us, without being shocked at the absurdity of it. "If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts, and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within, till they were three or four and forty, it would be impossible for them to assist at this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion; and yet it is certain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to one another, than we could be otherwise." The master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating as long as any of the company; and should, accordingly, help themselves in a way that will enable them to give this specimen of good manners without being particularly observed. "It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, to desire their guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to nobody but the master and mistress, and those whom they think fit to desire, who are to deliver what they cut to the master or mistress, to be by them distributed at their pleasure." A seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated to give him a command of the table, as the act of rising to perform this duty is considered ungraceful. The carving-knife should be light and sharp; and it should be firmly grasped; although in using it, strength is not as essential as skill, particularly if the butcher has properly divided the bones of such joints as the neck, loin, and breast of veal or of mutton. The dish should not be far from the carver; for when it is too distant, by occasioning the arms to be too much extended, it gives an awkward appearance to the person, and renders the task more difficult. In carving fish, care should be taken not to break the flakes, and this is best avoided by the use of a fish trowel, which not being sharp, divides it better than a steel knife. Examine this little drawing, and you will see how a cod's head and shoulders should be carved. The head and shoulders of a cod contain the richest and best part of this excellent fish. [Illustration: _Fig. 1._] The first piece may be taken off in the direction of _a b_, by putting in the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish, and the rest in successive order. A small part of the sound should be given with each slice, and will be found close to the back-bone, by raising the thin flap _d_. It is known by being darker coloured and more transparent than the other parts of the fish. Almost every part of a cod's head is considered good; the palate, the tongue, the jelly, and firm parts, _e e_, upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the head, are considered as delicate eating by many persons. [Illustration: _Fig. 2._] A boiled fowl has the legs bent inward (see _fig. 2_), and fastened to the sides by a skewer, which is removed before the fowl is sent to table. A roasted fowl should not have any part of the legs cut off, as in the boiled fowl; but after they have been properly scraped and washed, they are drawn together at the very extremity of the breast. A boiled and a roasted fowl are each carved in the same manner. The wings are taken off in the direction of _a_ to _b_ (_fig. 2_). Your knife must divide the joint, but afterward you have only to take firm hold of the pinion with your fork, draw the wings towards the legs, and you will find that the muscles separate better than if you cut them with your knife. Slip your knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone, then with the fork turn the leg back, and, if the fowl be not a very old one, the joints will give way. [Illustration: _Fig. 3._] After the four quarters are thus removed, enter the knife at the breast, in the direction _c d_ (_fig. 3_), and you will separate the merrythought from the breast-bone; and by placing your knife under it, lift it up, pressing it backward on the dish, and you will easily remove that bone. The collar-bones, _e e_, lie on each side the merrythought, and are to be lifted up at the broad end, by the knife, and forced towards the breast-bone, till the part which is fastened to it breaks off. The breast is next to be separated from the carcass, by cutting through the ribs on each side, from one end of the fowl to the other. The back is then laid upward, and the knife passed firmly across it, near the middle, while the fork lifts up the other end. The side bone are lastly to be separated; to do which turn the back from you, and on each side the back-bone, in the direction of _g g_ (_fig. 4_), you will find a joint, which you must separate, and the cutting up of the fowl will be complete. [Illustration: _Fig. 4._] Ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner; in the latter, however, the merrythought is seldom separated from the breast, unless the birds are very large. Turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the breast-bone, and by beginning to cut from the wing upwards to the breast-bone, many more slices may be obtained than if you cut from the breast-bone to the wings, although I do not think the slices are quite as handsome as if cut in the latter method. [Illustration: _Fig. 6._] Pigeons (see _fig. 6_) are either cut from the neck to _a_, which is the fairest way, or from _b_ to _c_, which is now the most fashionable mode; and the lower part is esteemed the best. [Illustration: _Fig. 7._] There are two ways of carving a hare. When it is young, the knife may be entered near the shoulder at a (see _fig. 7_), and cut down to _b_, on each side of the backbone; and thus the hare will be divided into three parts. The back is to be again divided into four parts, where the dotted lines are in the cut: these and the legs are considered the best parts, though the shoulders are preferred by some, and are to be taken off in the direction of _c d e_. The pieces should be laid neatly on the plates, as they are separated, and each plate served with stuffing and gravy. When the hare is old, it is better not to attempt the division down the back, which would require much strength; but the legs should be separated from the body at _f_, and then the meat cut off from each side, and divided into moderate sized pieces. If the brains and ears are required, cut off the head, and put your knife between the upper and lower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the upper jaw flat on the dish: then force the point of your knife into the centre, and having cut the head into two parts, distribute the brains with the ears to those who like them. Rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare, except that the back is divided only into two pieces, which, with the legs, are considered the most delicate parts. [Illustration: _Fig. 8._] A ham is generally cut in the direction of _a_ to _b_, (_fig. 8_) down to the bone, and through the prime part of the ham. Another way is to cut a small hole at _c_, and to enlarge it by cutting circular pieces out of it; this method brings you to the best part of the ham directly, and has an advantage over the other in keeping in the gravy. [Illustration: _Fig. 9._] A leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint, but nevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly, which should be observed. The first slice should be taken out at _a_ (_fig. 9_), between the knuckle _b_ and the thick end; and the second and subsequent slices should be cut in this direction, until you are stopped by the cramp-bone at _c_; then turn it up, and take the remaining slices from the back, in a longitudinal direction. When the leg is rather lean, help some fat from the broad end with each slice. The best and most juicy slices are toward the broad end: but some persons prefer the knuckle: and where economy is an object, the knuckle should always be eaten when the joint is hot, as it becomes very dry when cold. If the joint is to be brought again to table, it has a much neater and more respectable appearance if it be helped, altogether, from the knuckle end, when it is hot. This direction may appear trifling; but a good economist knows the importance of carving, when the circumstances of a family require that a joint be brought a second time to table. [Illustration: _Fig. 10._] A haunch of venison (_fig. 10_) should be cut down to the bone in the direction of the line _a b c_, by which means the gravy is allowed to flow out: then the carver, turning the broad end of the haunch toward him, should cut in deep from _b_ to _d_. He then cuts thin slices in the same direction, taking care to give to each person whom he helps a due proportion of fat, which is, by lovers of venison, highly prized: there is generally more of this delicacy on the left side of _b d_ than on the other side. A haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as venison. [Illustration: _Fig. 11._] A saddle of mutton (_fig. 11_) is cut from the tail to the end on each side the back-bone, in the direction of the lines _a b_, continuing downward to the edge _c_, until it become too fat. The slices should be cut thin, and if the joint be a large one, they may be divided into two parts. The fat will be found on the sides. A sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table. The ribs may be divided into two parts as well as the joints. The ribs are considered the finest part, and the neck end under the shoulder. Part of the kidneys should be added to each helping. A shoulder of mutton, if properly roasted, is supposed to yield many choice pieces, but this depends very much upon the carver. The first cut should be in the direction _c b_ (_fig. 12_); and, after taking a few slices on each side of the gap which follows the first cut, some good slices may be obtained on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade, in the direction _c d_. When the party is numerous, slices may be taken from the under side; and it is on this side, under the edge _e_, that the fat is found.[419-*] [Illustration: _Fig. 12._] _Buttock of Beef_ Is always boiled, and requires no print to point out how it should be carved. A thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock, that your friends may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it. The outside thus cut off, thin slices may then be cut from the top; but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to table cold a second day, it should always be cut handsome and even. When a slice all round would be considered too much, the half, or a third, may be given with a thin slice of fat. On one side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some called the white muscle. In some places, a buttock is generally divided, and this white part sold separate, as a delicacy; but it is by no means so, the meat being coarse and dry; whereas the darker-coloured parts, though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser texture, more tender, fuller of gravy, and better flavoured; and men of distinguishing palates ever prefer them. FOOTNOTES: [412-*] He who greedily grapples for the prime parts, exhibits indubitable evidence that he came for that purpose. [419-*] Another way of carving a shoulder of mutton, and one which many persons prefer, is in slices from the knuckle to the broad end of the shoulder beginning on the outside. See the lines _f_ and _g_. INDEX. The Figures in the body of the Index refer to the Number of the Receipts; those in the column, under the word Page, to where the Receipts are to be found; and those preceded by Ap., to the Receipts in the Appendix. Page ACID of lemon, artificial, 407* 274 Accum on Adulterations, quoted, note to 433 280 An alderman in chains, 57 135 A-la-mode beef, or veal, or English turtle, 502 312 Allspice, essence of, 412 275 ---- tincture of, 413 ib. ---- Sir H. Sloane on, note 92 Almond custards (Ap. 54.) 375 Anchovy sauce, 270 232 ---- essence, 433 279 ---- toast, 573 354 ---- butter,} 434 282 ---- paste, } ---- powder, 435 ib. ---- to keep them well, Obs. to 270 233 Apicius, his sauce for boiled chicken 35 Appetite, good, why the best sauce 52 ---- to refresh 38 Appert, his art of preserving vegetables, note 164 Apple pie (Ap. 32.) 369 ---- pudding, boiled (Ap. 112.) 397 ---- dumplings, ditto (Ap. 113.) ib. ---- tart, creamed (Ap. 33.) 369 ---- sauce, 304 242 Apples, to dry (Ap. 83.) 384 Apricot jam (Ap. 93.) 387 Artichokes, 136 166 ---- Jerusalem, 117 160 Asparagus, 123 161 ---- soup, 222 206 Arrack, to imitate, 480 299 Arbuthnot, Dr., quoted, Preface viii. Abernethy, Mr., quoted, note 20 Bacon, 13 117 ---- slices of, 526 324 ---- relishing rashers of, 527 ib. ---- sparerib, to roast 132 Bain-Marie, note to 485 and 529* 304. 326 Baking 72 Baked custard (Ap. 52.) 375 ---- pears (Ap. 82.) 384 Barley water, 565 350 ---- broth, 204 199 ---- ----, to make a gallon for a groat 210 ---- sugar (Ap. 90.) 386 ---- drops (Ap. 91.) ib. Basil, when to dry 291 ---- vinegar, or wine, 397 269 ---- sauce, 264 231 Batter pudding (Ap. 111.) 397 Beans, French, 133 164 Beauty 51 Bechamel, 364 257 Beef bouilli, 5. 238. 493 109. 212. 308 ---- how nutritive and economical, 5 109 ---- to salt, 6 111 ---- savoury, 496 310 ---- a round of, salted, to boil, 7 113 ---- what the outside slices are good for, N. B. to 7 ib. ---- H-Bone, 8 ib. ---- ribs, and rolled, 9 114 ---- baron of 34 ---- sirloin, roasted, 19 122 ---- proper way to carve, in note to 19 123 ---- as mock hare, 66* 141 ---- ribs, roasted, 20 123 ---- ditto, boned and rolled, 21 124 ---- steaks, to fry, 85 148 ---- steak pudding (Ap. 24.) 367 ---- season for, see note to 94 151 ---- with onions, 86 148 ---- to broil, 94 151 ---- the superlative steak ib. ---- Macbeth's receipt, and le véritable _bif-teck_ de Beauvilliers, N. B. to 94 152 ---- to stew, 500 311 ---- with onion gravy, 501 312 ---- broth, 185 193 ---- broth for glaze, or portable soup or sauce, 252 223 ---- gravy, 186 194 ---- strong gravy, 188 ib. ---- cullis, 189 195 ---- for poultry, &c. 329 249 ---- shin of, soup, 193 196 ---- tea, 563 349 ---- to hash, 486 304 ---- shin, stewed, 493 308 ---- brisket, stewed, 494 310 ---- haricot, 495 ib. ---- Hunter's savoury, baked or stewed, 496 ib. ---- à-la-mode, or English turtle, 502 312 ---- to pot, 503 314 ---- _bubble and squeak_, 505 316 ---- hashed, and bones broiled, 506 317 ---- cold, broiled, &c. 487 304 Beer, to recover when hard, 468 295 ---- to bottle, 468 ib. ---- cup, 464 294 Beet roots, 127 162 ---- ---- to pickle (Ap. 119.) 402 Biscuit drops (Ap. 68.) 380 Bishop, essence of, 412 275 Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note under 247 219 Black cock, 71 144 Blancmange (Ap. 46.) 373 BOILING 66 Boiled custard (Ap. 53.) 375 Bouillon de santé, 196 197 Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &c. 341 251 Brandy, how to obtain genuine Cognac 296 BREAD, to make (Ap. 100.) 390 ---- sauce, 321 246 ---- sippets, fried, 319 ib. ---- crumbs, do. 320 ib. ---- pudding, 556 344 Broccoli, 126 162 ---- pickled, (Ap. 122.) 403 Bride, or wedding cake (Ap. 56.) 376 Brill, 143 169 Brains are sadly dependent on the bowels 20 ---- Dr. Cadogan's obs. thereon, note 21 Brain balls 266 BROILING, see the 4th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 82 Brose, Scotch, 205* 201 Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45.) 373 BROTH, see the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 89 ---- black 35 ---- of fragments 54 ---- beef, 185 193 ---- to clarify, 252* 227 ---- mutton, 194 196 ---- mock ditto, 195 197 ---- with cutlets, 490 307 ---- Scotch barley, 204 199 ---- for sick, 564 350 Browning, to colour soup and sauce, &c. 322 246 Bill of fare for a week 56 Buns, plain (Ap. 77.) 382 ---- cross (Ap. 78.) 383 ---- seed (Ap. 79.) ib. ---- plum (Ap. 80.) ib. ---- Bath (Ap. 65.) 379 Burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber, 399 270 ---- ---- sauce, 264 231 Burgoo, Scotch, 572* 353 Butler's directions for drying herbs, 461 290 ---- ---- to market for vegetables 359 Butler, Obs. on the business of a note 39 BUTTER, _best manner of melting_ 228 ---- to recover when oiled 229 ---- clarified, 259 230 ---- burnt, 260 ib. ---- oiled, 260* ib. CATHOLIC FAMILIES, cookery for, 158. 224 178. 207 Cabbage, 118 160 ---- boiled and fried, or bubble and squeak, 119. 505 160. 316 Cakes, common seed (Ap. 59.) 377 ---- rich, yest (Ap. 60.) 378 ---- queen, or heart (Ap. 61.) ib. ---- Shrewsbury (Ap. 63.) ib. ---- Banbury (Ap. 64.) 379 ---- Savoy, or sponge (Ap. 67.) 380 ---- Ratafia (Ap. 71.) 381 ---- almond sponge (Ap. 72.) ib. ---- diet bread (Ap. 74.) ib. ---- Derby, or short (Ap. 87.) 385 ---- Yorkshire (Ap. 104.) 391 Calf, a fatted, preferred to a starved turtle, 247 221 ----'s head to boil, 10 114 ---- ---- to hash, 10 115 ---- ---- ragoût, 520 321 ---- ---- mock turtle, 247 219 ---- feet jelly, 481 299 Camp vinegar, 403 271 Carp, stewed, 158 177 Carrots, 129 163 ---- soup, 212 201 Carving, best rule for 43 ---- ancient terms of, note ib. Catsup of mushrooms, 439 283 ---- double ditto, or dog-sup 284 ---- of walnuts, 438 282 ---- of oysters, 441 285 ---- of cockles, 442 ib. ---- of cucumbers, 399 270 ---- pudding, 446 285 Caper sauce, 274 233 ---- ---- mock, 275 ib. Capon, to roast, 58 136 Capillaire, 476 297 Caramel, to boil sugar to, (Ap. 85.) 385 Cauliflower, 125 162 ---- pickled (App. 122.) 403 Caudle, 572 353 Cautions to carvers 44 Cayenne, how to make, 404 272 ---- essence of, 405 273 Celery soup, 214 202 ---- sauce, 289, 290 238 ---- seed, substitute for celery, note 92 ---- essence, 409 275 Chantilly basket (Ap. 51.) 375 Cheap soup, 229 208 Cheese and toast, 538*, 539 330 ---- toasted, 540 331 ---- buttered ditto, 541 ib. ---- pounded or potted, 542 ib. Cheesecakes (Ap. 40.) 371 ---- lemon, ditto (Ap. 41.) 372 ---- orange, ditto (Ap. 42.) ib. ---- almond, ditto (Ap. 43.) ib. Cherries, dried (Ap. 95.) 387 Chervil sauce, 264 231 Chili vinegar, 405* 273 ---- wine, 406 ib. Chicken. See Fowl. ---- pie (Ap. 16.) 364 ---- and ham patties (Ap. 29.) 368 Chops, mutton, pork, beef, to broil, 94 151 ---- to fry, 85 148 ---- to stew, 490 307 ---- relish for, 423 278 ---- sauce for, 356 255 Cinnamon, essence of, 416 276 ---- tincture of, 416* ib. Claret, best wine for sauces, &c. 95 Clarified syrup, 475 297 Clarify broth, to, 252* 227 Clove and mace, essence of, 414 276 ---- ---- ---- tincture of, 415 ib. Cockle catchup, 442 285 Cod, boiled, 149 172 ---- the tail filleted, note under 149 ib. ---- slices boiled, 151 174 ---- skull stewed, 158 177 ---- shaved, and sold for whitings, Obs. to 153 175 Cold meat, to broil with poached eggs, 487 304 ---- ditto, to warm, the best way 54 ---- fish 53 ---- ---- sauce for, 453, 359, and 307 287, 255, 243 ---- veal, an excellent dish of, 512 319 ---- fowl, ditto, 533 328 Colouring for soup and sauce, 322 246 ---- a frequent cause of adulteration, 322 247 Committee of taste 17 Consommé, 252 223 Coffee, to make 340 Cooks, friendly advice to 46 ---- hints to 53 ---- ditto, when they have a very large dinner 62 Cooks, cause of the scarcity of good ones 310 ---- deserve good wages 23 ---- a manor given to one by William the Conqueror 22 ---- Obs. concerning their health, note 26 Cook-teaser, where not to put him 44 Cooking animals, dine only once a month, note 17 Cookery, Descartes's observations on 19 ---- Dr. Johnson's ditto 20 ---- theory of, note ib. ---- importance of 21 ---- Dr. Stark vii. ---- the analeptic part of physic 19 ---- Dr. Mandeville viii. ---- Arbuthnot ib. ---- Parmentier x. ---- Sylvester's Obs. on, note 20 ---- best books on, note ib. ---- theory of the processes of, from the Encyclopædia Brit. note ib. ---- opinion of a cook on books of 32 Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitchener 22 Coullis, or thickened gravy, 189 195 _Coup d'aprés_ 94 Crab, to boil, 177 188 Crawfish soup, 235 211 ---- ditto, pounded alive, recommended by Mons. Clermont, 235 ib. Cream, clouted, 388 267 Cranberry tart (Ap. 37.) 370 Croquante of paste (Ap. 86.) 385 Cottage potato pudding (Ap. 115.) 398 Crisp parsley, 318 245 Currant jelly, 479* 298 Curry powder, 455 287 ---- soup, 249 222 ---- sauce, 348 254 ---- balls, 382 266 ---- to dress, 497 311 Curaçoa, how to make, 474 296 Custard pudding 347 Cider cup, 465 294 Culinary curiosities 32 Crane 34 Curlews ib. Cat in gely ib. Corks 106 Cement for sealing bottles ib. Caw-caw bones, N.B. 1 108 Cow heel, to dress, 18* 122 Cress sauce, 264 231 ---- vinegar, 397* 269 Cucumber, stewed, 135 165 ---- vinegar, 399 270 ---- to preserve (Ap. 98.) 389 Carp, to stew, 158 177 Charity, the greatest 24 Crumpets (Ap. 103.) 391 Devil, 538 329 ---- his venison 33 ---- sauce for 255 ---- biscuit, 574 354 Damson cheese (Ap. 89.) 386 Digestion, how important 19 Dripping pan 76 Dripping, to clarify, 83 146 ---- Mrs. Melroe and Dr. Stark's Obs. on, 83 147 ---- soup 210 Duck, to roast, 61 139 ---- bonne bouche for, 341 251 ---- to hash, 530 326 ---- cold, to warm, 535 329 ---- wild, to roast, 74 144 Dutch salad, Obs. to 372 260 Dinner, seven chances against its being properly dressed, note 22 ---- hints for preparing a large, p. 62, 63; a good one for 5_d._, 204 199 ---- invitation to 36 ---- importance of punctuality, the only act which cannot be postponed 37 ---- arrangements of guests at 40 ---- rules for behaviour at, from the Accomplished Lady's Delight, note 29 ---- hints for providing 38 ---- Obs. on second courses, &c. ib. ---- punishment for not being punctual at 42 ---- Boileau's Obs. on ib. ---- Hints to those who dine out 44 Edge bone of beef, see H-bone, 8 113 ---- ---- ways of spelling 114 Education of a cook's tongue 52 Eels, stewed, Wiggy's way, 164 181 ---- pickled, 161 180 ---- fried, 165 182 ---- pie (Ap. 22.) 366 ---- spitchocked, 166 182 ---- soup, 225 207 Eggs, to preserve for twelve months, see N.B. to 547 338 ---- sauce, 267 232 ---- fried with bacon, 545 336 ---- ragoût, 545* 337 ---- with minced bacon, 549 339 ---- poached, 546 337 ---- ditto, with minced ham, 548 338 ---- boiled in the shell, 547 ib. ---- ditto, for a salad, 372 260 ---- various ways of dressing egg and ham patties (Ap. 88.) 386 Epictetus, a relish for, 27 125 Eschalot sauce, 294 239 ---- vinegar, 401 271 ---- wine, 402 ib. Essence of turtle, 343 252 Essence of ham, 351 254 ---- where to buy it, 351 ib. ---- of mushrooms, 440 285 ---- of oysters, 441 ib. ---- of anchovy, 433 280 ---- of Cayenne, 405 273 ---- lemon peel, 407 ib. ---- ditto, 408 274 ---- of celery, 409 275 ---- ginger, 411 ib. ---- allspice, 412 ib. ---- clove, 414 276 ---- mace, 414 ib. ---- cinnamon, 416 ib. ---- marjoram, 417 277 ---- sweet herbs, 417* ib. ---- soup herbs, 420 ib. ---- eschalot, 402 271 ---- soup herbs and savoury spice, 422 277 Epicure, the editor's definition of note 17 ---- the temperate man the greatest 19 Economy, the first rule of comfortable, note 61 Fawn, 65 140 Fennel and butter for mackerel, 265 231 Fish, see the 6th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 86 ---- cold, to redress 53 ---- fecundity of, note 86 ---- how to market for 358 ---- to stew, 158 177 ---- soups, 225 207 ---- forcemeat, 383 266 ---- sauce, 425 278 ---- to pickle, 161 180 Forcemeat, to make, 373 262 ---- materials used for 263 ---- for veal, 375 264 ---- for turkey, 377 265 ---- for goose, 378 ib. ---- for hare, 379 ib. ---- balls, for mock turtle and made dishes, 380 ib. ---- egg ditto, 381 266 ---- curry ditto, 382 ib. ---- zest, &c. 386 ib. ---- of fish for maigre dishes, 383 ib. ---- to mix orange and lemon peel, 387 ib. Flip, 466 294 Flounders, 155 175 Fowls, to boil one half and roast the other at the same time 33 ---- to boil, 16 119 ---- to roast, 58 136 ---- to broil, 97 154 ---- hashed, 533 328 ---- pulled, 534 ib. ---- to dress cold, 535 329 ---- Apicius's sauce for 35 French beans, 133 164 ---- ---- pickled (Ap. 118.) 402 ---- tart of preserved fruit (Ap. 35.) 370 ---- bread and rolls (Ap. 100*) 390 Froth roast meat, to 78 Frogges, fried 34 Fare, bill of, for a week 56 Frying 80 Flavour, agents employed to soups and sauces, note under 104 Flounders, fried or boiled, 155 175 Fritters, 558 344 Fruit, to preserve, without sugar (Ap. 99.) 390 Game, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 ---- soup, 242 216 Garlic vinegar, 400 270 ---- sauce, 272 233 ---- gravy, 311 244 Giblets, stewed, 531 328 ---- soup, 244 216 ---- pie (Ap. 14.) 363 Gherkins (Ap. 117.) 402 Gigot de Sept Heures, N.B. to 1 108 Ginger, essence of, 411 275 ---- preserved (Ap. 97.) 389 Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 76.) 382 Goose, Dr. Stark says is the most nutritive food 138 ---- to roast, 59 137 ---- ditto, alive 33 ---- to persuade one to roast himself! 1 ib. ---- how the liver is fattened for the Strasburg pies. In note to 59 137 ---- to hash, 530 326 ---- green, 60 138 ---- mock, 51 131 ---- bonne bouche for, 341 251 ---- relish for, 341 ib. Gourds, various ways of dressing 348 GOURMAND defined, note 17 Gourmandize, to guard against, note 24 Gooseberry sauce, 263 231 GRAVY, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 ---- for poultry, ragoûts, &c., 329 249 ---- onion, 299 241 ---- garlic, 311 244 ---- game, 337 251 ---- for wild duck, 338 ib. ---- roasted meat, 326 248 ---- boiled, 327 249 ---- wow wow for salted or stewed beef, 328 249 ---- for grills and broils, &c., 355 254 ---- for chops and steaks, 356 255 ---- relish for chops and steaks, 423 278 ---- for cold meat or poultry, &c., 359 255 ---- hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 ---- ditto, veal, 361 257 ---- for venison, of wine, 344 253 ---- of vinegar, 345 ib. ---- for venison, of currant jelly, 346 ib. ---- of mutton, 347 ib. ---- brown colouring for, 322 246 ---- portable, 252 223 ---- soup, 200 198 ---- vegetable, ditto, 224 207 Green pease, 134 164 ---- soup, 216 203 ---- maigre, ditto, 217 ib. Green gages, preserved in syrup (Ap. 96.) 388 Grill sauce, 355 254 Grouse, 73 144 Gruel, water, various ways of making and flavouring, 572 352 Guinea fowl, 69* 143 Glasse, Mrs., her Cookery 20 Gridiron 82 Haddock, 157 176 ---- Findhorn, ditto, 157* ib. Haggis, a good Scotch, 488* 305 Ham, to boil, 14 118 ---- to pot, 509 318 ---- slices of broiled, 526 324 ---- essence of, 351 354 ---- where to buy, ditto, 351 ib. Hare, roast, 66 140 ---- jugged, 529* 325 ---- soup, 241 215 ---- mock, 66* 141 ---- hashed, 529 325 ---- pie (Ap. 11.) 362 Haricot of mutton, lamb, veal, or beef, 489 306 ---- of beef, 495 310 Hashes, mutton, 484 303 ---- to warm up, 485 304 ---- beef, 486 ib. ---- veal, 511 318 ---- venison, 528 325 ---- cold calf's head, 519 321 ---- ditto, 10 114 ---- calf's head or ragoût, 520 321 ---- hare, 529 325 ---- duck or goose, 530 326 ---- poultry, game, or rabbit, 533 328 ---- sauce for, 360 256 Haunch (see H.) bone of beef, 8 113 Herbs, when, and how to dry, 461 290 Herrings, pickled, 171 185 ---- broiled, 171* ib. ---- red ditto, 172 186 Horseradish powder, 458* 289 ---- vinegar, 399* 270 Housekeeping, plan of 27 ---- book ib. Horse powdered 34 Hill, Dr., author of Mrs. Glasse's Cookery 20 Hanger, Col., quoted, his hints for guarding against "la Gourmandize," note 23 Hudson, the dwarf, served up in a pie 34 Icing for fruit tarts, &c. (Ap. 31.) 369 ---- for twelfth cake (Ap. 84.) 384 Indigestion 38 ---- lozenges for, note ib. ---- remedy for 39 Invitations, how to send 41 ---- to answer ib. Indian or mixed pickle (Ap. 123.) 404 Independence, the road to 64 Italian salad, see Obs. to 372 260 ---- cream (Ap. 48.) 374 ---- macaroons (Ap. 70.) 380 Irish stew, Mrs. Phillips's, 488 305 ---- ditto, Mr. Morrison's, 488 ib. Jack, to dress, 158 177 Jacks, Obs. on 74 Jelly, ox heel, 198 197 ---- calf's feet, 481 299 ---- of currants and other fruits, 479* 298 Jerusalem artichokes, 117 160 Jockey, how to waste 190 JOHNSON'S brandy and liqueurs, 471 296 JOHNSON, Dr., quoted 20 KAY, Mr., of Albion House, wines, &c., Obs. to 94 243 KELLY'S sauce for calf head or cow heel, 311 244 ---- ditto, for sauce _piquante_, 311* ib. Kid, to roast, 65* 140 Kidneys, to broil, 95 153 Kitchen maid, business of a 25 Kitchen fire place, best ornaments for 64 ---- chimney should be swept often 54 ---- utensils 89 Kitchiner, Dr., quoted, note, 572 30 LIFE, THE ART OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING vii. Lacedæmon, black broth of 35 ---- ditto sauce ib. Lamb, to broil, 3 109 ---- to roast, 40 129 ---- sham lamb, ditto, 40 ib. ---- hind quarter, 41 ib. ---- fore quarter, 42 130 ---- leg, 43 ib. ---- shoulder, 44 ib. ---- to goosify, ditto, note to 51 131 ---- ribs, 45 130 ---- loin, 46 130 ---- neck, 47 ib. ---- breast, 48 ib. ---- chops, 93 150 ---- shoulder, grilled, 491 307 ---- lamb's fry, 492 308 Larders, proper, note 57 Larks, 80 146 Lemon chips (Ap. 94.) 387 ---- syrup, 391 267 ---- sauce, 273 233 ---- juice, artificial, 407* 274 Lemon and liver sauce, 287 237 ---- peel essence, 407 273 ---- quintessence ditto, 408 274 ---- tincture ditto, 408* ib. Lemonade in a minute, 477 297 Liquamen of the Romans 35 _Liqueurs_, 471 296 Lister, Mrs., leg of beef soup. See shin of beef soup. Liver of a goose. See note under 59 137 ---- and parsley sauce, 287 237 ---- ditto for fish, 288 238 Lobster, to roast, 82 146 ---- to boil, 176 187 ---- sauce, 284 236 ---- sauce for lobster, 285 237 ---- soup, 237 211 ---- potted, 178 183 ---- patties (Ap. 27.) 368 ---- salad, 372 260 ---- spawn, to preserve, N.B. to 284 236 Lozenges 38 Macaroni, 543 332 ---- soup, see Obs. to 200 198 Mackerel, boiled, 167 183 ---- broiled, 169 184 ---- baked, 170 ib. ---- pickled, 171 185 ---- roe sauce, 266 231 Made dishes, Obs. on. See 9th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 106 ---- ---- economical ditto, 483 300 Magazine of Taste 292 Maigre forcemeat, 383 266 ---- plum pudding, 554 342 Mandeville, Dr., quoted, Preface viii. Manners, the importance of good 42 Marjoram, essence of, 417 277 Marrow bones, 544 336 Meat, soup from any, boiled 69 Melroe, Mrs., her Econom. Cookery, quoted, note to 83 147 Melted butter 228 Minced collops 306 Mince pies (Ap. 38.) 371 ---- meat (Ap. 39.) 372 Mint sauce, 303 242 ---- vinegar, 398 270 Mock turtle soup, 247 219 ---- ditto, do. by E. Lister, 245 218 Mille feuilles (Ap. 44.) 372 Moor game, 72 144 Morels, Obs. on 89 Mulled wine, aromatic, essence for, 412 275 Mustard, to make, 370 259 ---- to make in a minute, 369 ib. ---- ditto, to keep, 427 278 ---- seed oil 404 Manners, barbarous, of the sixteenth century 29 ---- good effects of good 42 ---- bad effects of bad 43 Measures, glass ones 31 Meat, how long it must hang to be tender 57 ---- if frozen ib. ---- killing it by electricity makes it tender immediately 58 Marketing 61 ---- best rule for ib. ---- ditto 56 MARKETING TABLES, for meat 355 ---- ---- poultry 357 ---- ---- vegetables 359 Meat skreen 77 Meat cakes, 504* 316 Mutton, to boil a leg, 1 108 ---- neck, 2 109 Mutton, 23 124 ---- roast, a leg, 24 125 ---- ditto, saddle, 26 ib. ---- shoulder, 27 ib. ---- loin, 28 ib. ---- neck, 29 126 ---- breast, 30 ib. ---- haunch, 31 ib. ---- ditto, venison fashion, 32 ib. ---- or veal pie (Ap. 10.) 362 ---- chops, 92 150 ---- ditto, stewed, 490 307 ---- broth, 194. 564 196. 350 ---- ---- mock, 195 197 ---- to hash, 484 303 ---- haricot, 489 306 ---- mullaga-tawny soup, 249 222 Mushroom sauce, 305 242 ---- ditto, brown, 306 243 ---- extempore, 307 ib. ---- catchup, 439 283 ---- quintessence of, 440 285 Marrow bones, 544 336 ---- vegetable 348 Muffins (Ap. 102.) 391 Nutmeg, tincture of, 413* 276 ---- grater, the best 65 Omelettes, 543* 333 Onion, Obs. on, note 92 ---- pickled (Ap. 121.) 403 ---- stewed, 137 166 ---- young, sauce, 296 240 ---- sauce, 297 ib. ---- ---- white, 298 240 ---- ---- brown, 299 241 ---- sage and, 300 ib. Orange jelly (Ap. 47.) 373 ---- gingerbread (Ap. 75.) 382 Orgeat (Ap. 81.) 383 Ox cheek, stewed, 507 317 ---- ---- portable soup of, 252 224 Ox tails, stewed, 508 318 Ox head soup, 239 213 Ox tail soup, 240 214 Ox heel jelly, 198 197 ---- ---- soup, 240* 214 Oysters, how to feed and preserve their lives, and how to tickle them to death, 181 189 ---- certainly not so nutritive as supposed, N.B. to 181 190 ---- native, those that are born and bred in the Burnham rivers, note to 181 189 ---- essence of, 441 285 ---- scalloped, 182 191 ---- stewed, 182* 192 ---- fried, 183 ib. ---- sauce, 278 234 ---- preserved in powder, 280 234 ---- patties (Ap. 26.) 368 Osborne, H. Cook to Sir J. Banks xi. 52 ---- ditto, his receipts for puddings, &c., 560 345 Oatmeal, a substitute for bread crumbs, note 82 Pancakes, 558 344 Paregoric elixir, 570 352 Pharmacopoeia, Appendix to x. Parmentier, quoted, Preface ib. Parsley and butter, 261 230 ---- to preserve, N.B. to 261 231 ---- fried, 317 245 ---- crisp, 318 246 Partridges, 70 143 ---- soup, 241 215 Paste for croquants, or cut pastry (Ap. 8.) 361 ---- for meat or savoury pies (Ap. 2.) 360 ---- for boiled puddings (Ap. 6.) 361 ---- for stringing tartlets, &c. (Ap. 7.) ib. Pease, to boil, 134 164 ---- pudding, 555 343 ---- ---- how to make for half the usual expense, note to 555 ib. ---- soups, 218. 220 203. 205 ---- ditto, in five minutes, Obs. to 555 343 ---- curry pease soup, note to 218 205 ---- celery ditto, ditto, 218 204 ---- plain pease soup, 221 206 Parsnips, 128 163 Peristaltic persuaders 39 Peptic Precepts, quoted ib. Pease powder, 458 289 Perch, fried, 159 179 ---- boiled, 160 179 ---- stewed, 158 177 Pheasant, 68 142 ---- mock ditto, 69 143 ---- criterion of its being "_assez mortifiée_," Obs. on 68 142 PICKLES, Obs. on 398 ---- pounded ib. ---- wholesome substitute for, 398, 399 Pigeons, roast, 78 145 ---- to broil, 98 154 ---- or lark pie (Ap. 13.) 363 Pig, sucking, 56 133 Pettitoes or sucking pig's feet, 12 171 Piquante vinegar, 453 287 Plaice, fried, 155 175 Plain pound cake (Ap. 57.) 377 Plum pudding, 553 341 Plum pudding sauce, 269 232 Plum pound cake (Ap. 58.) 377 Poached eggs, 546 337 Poor man's sauce, 310 243 Poor, soup for, 229 208 Papin, Dr., his Digester, note 223 Pork, the season for it, and the accompaniments, &c., 49 130 ---- to roast a leg, 50 131 ---- to boil ditto, 11 116 ---- to roast without the skin on, 51 131 ---- mock goose, 51 ib. ---- to lambify the leg of a porkling, see note to 51 ib. ---- griskin, 52 132 ---- sparerib, 53 ib. ---- loin, 54 ib. ---- chine, 55 133 ---- to salt, 6 112 ---- to boil, pickled, 11 116 ---- how to score after you have boiled it, 11 ib. ---- chops, to fry, 93 150 ---- sausages, 87 148 Poivrade sauce, 365 259 Portable soup, 252 223 Pot top, best fat for frying, Obs. to 83 147 ---- ---- liquor 54 ---- ---- to convert into pease soup in five minutes, N.B. to 555 343 Potatoes, 16 ways of dressing, 102 155 ---- to redress cold, 102* 156 ---- boiled and broiled, 103 ib. ---- fried in slices, 104 ib. ---- fried whole, 105 157 ---- mashed, 106 ib. ---- ditto, with onion, 107 ib. ---- escalloped, 108 ib. ---- roasted, 109 158 ---- under meat, 110 ib. ---- balls, 111 ib. ---- savoury, 112 ib. ---- snow, 114 ib. ---- gipsy pie, 115 159 ---- new, 116 ib. ---- mucilage or starch, 448 286 ---- flour ib. ---- colcannon, 108* 157 Potted beef, veal, game, &c., 503 314 ---- ---- veal, game, &c., why in season at the same time as mock turtle, note under 247 219 Potted ham, &c., 509 318 Prawns, 175 187 Poultry, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 ---- marketing tables for 357 Pudding, my, 554 341 ---- plum, 553 ib. ---- ditto, do. sauce for, 269 232 ---- suet, 551 340 ---- Yorkshire, 552 341 ---- pease, 555 343 ---- macaroni, 543 332 ---- batter 346 ---- bread and butter, boiled and baked, 557 344 ---- Boston apple 345 ---- spring fruit ib. ---- Nottingham ib. ---- Newmarket 346 ---- Newcastle or cabinet ib. ---- Vermicelli ib. ---- bread ib. ---- custard 347 ---- boiled ditto ib. ---- college (Ap. 105.) 395 ---- rice, baked or boiled ib. ---- ground ib. ---- save-all (Ap. 110.) 396 Puddings and pies, Obs. on 392 Pudding catchup, 446 285 Puff paste (Ap. 1.) 360 Pulled turkey, chicken, &c., 534 328 Punch, directly, 478 298 ---- essence of, to make, 479 ib. Purger souvent les Cuisiniers (de la nécessité) 26 Pig's pettitoes, 12 117 Politeness, ancient rules for, note 29 Porpus 33 Pie, Jeffery Hudson served up in one 34 Provisions, how to procure the best, 61. 357 Pepper, Obs. on 93 ---- double headed boxes 65 Queen's drops (Ap. 62.) 378 Quin's sauce, 425 278 ---- ditto, Obs. on Ann Chovy's marriage, in note to 433 281 Rabbit, roast, 67 142 ---- boiled, 17 121 ---- broiled, 97 154 ---- soup, 241 215 ---- pie (Ap. 17.) 365 ---- a Welch, 539 330 Ragoût beef, see Obs. to 493 309 ---- sauce, 329 249 ---- savoury powder, 457 288 ---- quintessence of ditto, 460 290 ---- of poultry, to dress, 530* 327 ---- breast of veal, 517 319 ---- raised pies (Ap. 5.) 361 ---- French pies (Ap. 18.) 365 ---- ham pie (Ap. 19.) ib. ---- pork pie (Ap. 21.) 366 ---- lamb pie (Ap. 23.) ib. Raspberry vinegar, 390 266 ---- wine or brandy, 469 295 ---- jam (Ap. 92.) 387 Red cabbage, pickled (Ap. 120.) 403 Rhubarb, various ways of dressing 347 Rice blancmange (Ap. 109.) 396 ---- pudding (Ap. 106.) 395 ---- ground pudding (Ap. 107.) ib. ---- sauce, 321* 246 ---- snowballs (Ap. 108.) 396 Ripe fruit tarts (Ap. 30.) 369 ROASTING, see the 2d chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 74 Robert sauce for pork and geese, 342 252 Roe boat ditto, see Obs. to 342 ib. Rouge, see note to 433 281 Roux, see Obs. to 257 229 Rump steak, broiled, 94 151 ---- ---- stewed, 500 311 ---- ---- do. with onion gravy, 501 312 ---- ---- pie (Ap. 15.) 364 Romans ate five meals a day 34 ---- their favourite dishes 35 ---- liquamen and garum ib. Sack posset, Sir F. Shepherd's, 467* 295 Sage and onion sauce, 300 241 Sally Lunn tea cakes (Ap. 101.) 390 Salt, to prepare for table, 371 260 Salt fish, 150 173 Salting meat, 6 111 ---- to make it red, 6 ib. ---- to make it savoury, 6 112 ---- to pickle meat ib. Sandwiches, 504 316 Save-all pudding (Ap. 110.) 396 SCOTCH haggis, 488* 305 ---- collops, 517 321 ---- ditto, minced 306 ---- gravy, see Obs. to 326 248 ---- brose, 205* 201 ---- barley broth, 204 199 ---- beef, note 123 ---- soups, 205 200 ---- winter hotch potch, 205 ib. ---- leek soup, or cocky leeky, 205 201 ---- lamb stew, 205 ib. Salads, Evelyn's directions about, 138 and 372 166. 260 ---- Dutch, French, Italian, &c., Obs. to 372 261 Salad sauce, 372 and 453 260. 287 Salmon, pickled, 161 180 ---- boiled, 162 ib. ---- broiled, 163 181 SAUCE, before you make, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 ---- anchovy, 270 232 ---- apple, 304 242 ---- basil vinegar or wine, 397 269 ---- balls for mock turtle, 380 265 ---- bechamel, 364 257 ---- bottled oyster, 278 234 ---- beef gravy, for poultry, 329 249 ---- bonne bouche for a goose, 341 251 ---- bread, 321 246 ---- browning, 322 ib. ---- butter, melted, 256 228 ---- burnt, ditto, 260 230 ---- clarified, ditto, 259 ib. ---- oiled, ditto, 260* ib. ---- to recover, N.B. to 256 229 ---- catchup of mushrooms, 439 283 ---- of walnuts, 438 282 ---- of cockles, &c., 442 285 ---- for puddings, 446 ib. ---- camp vinegar, 403 271 ---- caper, 274 233 ---- celery, 289 238 ---- ditto, brown, 290 ib. ---- chervil, 264 231 ---- Chili vinegar, 405 273 ---- crisp parsley, 318 245 ---- cucumber, 135 165 ---- curry, 348 254 ---- egg, 267 232 ---- essence of turtle, 343* 252 ---- ---- of ham, 351 254 ---- ---- of mushrooms, 440 285 ---- ---- of oysters, 441 ib. ---- ---- of Cayenne, 405 273 ---- ---- of anchovy, 433 280 ---- ---- of lemon peel, 407 274 ---- quintessence of ditto, 408 ib. ---- ---- essence of celery, 409 275 ---- ---- of ginger, 411 ib. ---- ---- of allspice, 412 ib. ---- ---- of clove,} 414 276 ---- ---- of mace, } ---- ---- of cinnamon, 416 ib. ---- ---- of soup herbs, 420 277 ---- ---- of soup herb and savoury spice, 422 ib. ---- ---- of eschalot, 402 271 ---- ---- of punch, 479 298 ---- eschalot, 294 239 ---- ditto, vinegar, 401 271 ---- fennel and butter for mackerel, &c., 265 232 ---- fish, 425 278 ---- forcemeat, to make, 373 262 ---- forcemeat balls for mock turtle, 380 265 ---- egg balls, 381 266 ---- curry ditto, 382 ib. ---- fish forcemeat, 383 ib. ---- zest ditto, 386 ib. ---- for veal, 375 264 ---- to mix orange or lemon peel, 387 266 ---- gravy for poultry, ragoûts, &c., 329 249 ---- ditto for game, 337 251 ---- ditto for wild duck, 338 ib. ---- ditto of onion, 299 241 ---- ditto of garlic, 311 244 ---- ditto for roasted meat, 326 248 ---- ditto for boiled ditto, 327 249 ---- wow wow, for boiled beef, 328 ib. ---- wine, see venison, 344 253 ---- vinegar for venison, 345 ib. ---- mutton ib. ---- for grills, 355 254 ---- for chops and steaks, 356 255 ---- for cold meat or poultry, 359 ib. ---- for hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 ---- for ditto of veal, 361 257 ---- relish for chops, 423 278 ---- gooseberry, 263 231 ---- garlic, 272 233 ---- ditto gravy, 311 244 ---- ditto vinegar, 400 270 ---- M. Kelly's, for calf's head or cow heel, 311* 244 ---- ditto, ditto, _piquante_, 311* ib. ---- lemon, syrup of, 391 267 ---- lemonade in a minute, 477 297 ---- lemon, 273 233 ---- ditto, and liver, or parsley and liver sauce, 287 237 ---- liver, for fish, 288 238 ---- lobster, 284 236 ---- for lobster, 285 237 ---- mackerel roe, 266 231 ---- green mint, 303 242 ---- vinegar, 398 270 ---- mushroom, 305 242 ---- ditto, brown, 306 243 ---- ditto, in five minutes, 307 ib. ---- mustard, to make, 370 259 ---- ditto, in a minute, 369 ib. ---- ditto, to keep, 427 278 ---- oyster, 278 234 ---- bottled, ditto, 280 ib. ---- onion, 297 240 ---- ditto, white, for rabbits, &c. 298 ib. ---- young onion, 296 ib. ---- fried, or brown onion, 299 241 ---- sage and onion, 300 ib. ---- ox heel jelly, 198 197 ---- parsley and butter, 261 230 ---- ditto, fried, 317 244 ---- ditto, crisp, 318 245 ---- pease powder, 458 289 ---- pickles, 462 292 ---- piquante vinegar, 453 287 ---- plum pudding, 269 232 ---- poivrade, 365 259 ---- poor man's, 310 243 ---- potato mucilage, 448 286 ---- ragoût sauce, 329 249 ---- ragoût powder, 457 288 ---- quintessence of ragoût powder, 460 290 ---- rice, 321* 246 ---- salad mixture, 372 260 ---- salad, 453 287 ---- superlative, 429 278 ---- box, 462 59. 292 Savoy biscuits (Ap. 69.) 380 Savoys, 120 160 Savoury salt beef, 496 310 Savoury pies, pasties, &c. (Ap. 12.) 363 Soup herb powder, or vegetable relish, 459 289 Shrimps, potted, 175 187 Shrimp sauce, 283 235 Shrub, 479 298 Small puffs of preserved fruit, (Ap. 36.) 370 Snipes, 77 144 Soda water, Obs. on, note 38 Sorrel sauce, 291 238 Sponge biscuits, (Ap. 66.) 379 Sprouts, 121 160 Sparerib of bacon, to roast, 53 132 Spices, Obs. on, 429 279 Soup herb and savoury powder, 460 290 ---- spirit, 420, 421, 422 277 Spinage, 122 160 Stock, first, note to 185 193 ---- second, note to 185 194 Stuffing, 373 262 ---- for hare, 379 265 ---- for goose, 378 ib. ---- for turkey, 377 ib. ---- for veal, 374 264 Suet pudding, 551 340 Syrup, clarified, 475 297 ---- of lemon peel, 393 268 ---- of lemon, 391 267 ---- of orange, 392 268 Stomach, an Englishman's cooking kettle, Dr. Hunter's Obs. on; Waterhouse's ditto, note 15 ---- the machinery of life 19 ---- Dr. Cheyne's Obs. on; Abernethy's ditto 20 Stomachic tincture, 569 352 Spectacles for Gourmands, note 23 Spring fruit, various ways of dressing 347 Sprats, to broil, 170* 185 ---- to pickle, 171 185 ---- to stew, 170** ib. ---- to fry, 173 187 Servants, Rev. Wm. Watkins' excellent institution for the encouragement of 25 ---- friendly advice to 46 ---- maxims for 49 Swan 33 Seals 34 Skate, 148 172 Soups, under the name of the article they are made of. Soup, Obs. on 89 ---- cheap 91 ---- and bouilli, 238 212 Steaks, 85, 94 148. 151 Stew pan 89 Suet, to clarify for frying, &c. 84 147 ---- puddings 393 Sausages, to fry, 87 148 Sweetbread, to fry, 88 149 ---- do. plain, 89 ib. Sweet, or short and crisp tart paste (Ap. 4.) 360 Sea kale, 124 162 Soles, to boil, 144 169 ---- to fry, 145 ib. ---- to stew, 146, 158, 164 171. 177. 181 ---- filleted, 147 171 Skate, fried, 154 175 Sturgeon, 152 174 Tart paste (Ap. 3.) 360 Tartlets (Ap. 34.) 370 Taste, the Committee of, Preface xi. ---- the Magazine of, 462 63. 292 ---- varieties of 51 Tastes, six simple, note 53 Tamis, note to, 189 195 Tankard, cool, 464 294 Tarragon sauce, 264 232 ---- vinegar, 396 268 Tea, to make, 550 339 Tender, to make meat 58 Tewahdiddle, 467 294 Thickening, or _roux_, 257 229 ---- ditto 98 Toast and water, 463 293 ---- and cheese, 539 330 Toasted cheese, 540 331 Tomato sauce, 292 239 ---- mock ditto, 293 ib. Tongue to boil, 15 119 ---- what the roots are good for, Obs. to 15 ib. Toothache, cure for, 567 351 Tripe, 18 121 Trifle (Ap. 49.) 374 Truffles, Obs. on 95 Turbot, to boil, 140 167 Turkey, to boil, 16 119 ---- to fatten and whiten, 16 ib. ---- roast, 57 134 ---- hash, &c. 533 328 ---- pulled, 534 ib. Turnips, 130 163 ---- to mash, 131 164 Turnip-tops, 132 164 ---- soup, 213 202 Turtle, to dress, 250 223 ---- mock ditto, 247, &c. 219 ---- Birch's ditto, excellent note to 247 ib. ---- mock mock, ditto, 245 218 ---- English, 248 222 ---- sauce, 343 252 ---- essence, 343* ib. ---- hints to turtle eaters, Obs. to 493 309 ---- 2500 pounds of, eaten at one dinner, note to 250 223 Twelfth cake (Ap. 55.) 376 Vauxhall nectar, to imitate, 480 299 Veal, to boil, 4 109 ---- to roast, 33 127 ---- fillet, 34 ib. ---- loin, 35 128 ---- shoulder, 36 ib. ---- neck, best end, 37 ib. ---- breast, 38 ib. ---- sweetbread, 39 ib. ---- cutlet, 90 149 ---- ditto, sauce for, 90 ib. ---- ditto, full dressed, 521 322 ---- broth, 191 195 ---- gravy, 192 ib. ---- knuckle soup, 193 196 ---- stuffing, Roger Fowler's, 374 264 ---- forcemeat, 375 ib. ---- breast, stewed, 515 319 ---- minced, 511* 318 ---- hashed, 511 ib. ---- sauce for, 361 257 ---- excellent hot ragoût of cold veal, 512 319 ---- potted, 503 314 ---- breast ragoût, 517 319 ---- ditto, with pease, note to 517 320 ---- olives, 518 321 ---- cutlets, broiled, 521 322 ---- knuckle, to ragoût, 522 323 ---- with rice, 523 ib. ---- Gay's receipt, ditto, 524 ib. ---- and ham patties (Ap. 28.) 368 ---- ---- ---- pie (Ap. 20.) 366 Vegetables, Obs. on. See the 5th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 83 Vegetable essences, to extract, 417.* 277 ---- marrow 348 ---- marketing tables for 359 Venison, to roast a haunch, 63 139 ---- neck or shoulder, 64 140 ---- to hash, 528 325 ---- to vensonify mutton, 32 126 ---- the Devil's 33 ---- wine sauce for, 344 253 ---- sharp ditto for, 345 ib. ---- sweet ditto, 346 ib. ---- mutton gravy, 347 ib. ---- pasty (Ap. 9.) 362 Vinegar sauce for venison, 345 253 ---- burnet or cucumber, 399 270 ---- basil, 397 269 ---- cress, 397* ib. ---- garlic, 400 270 ---- horseradish, 399* ib. ---- eschalot, 401 271 ---- camp, 403 ib. ---- piquante, 453 287 ---- for salads, 395 268 ---- tarragon, 396 ib. ---- raspberry, 390 267 ---- sweet and savoury herbs, spices, &c., Obs. to 396 269 ---- green mint, 398 270 ---- pyroligneous, Obs. on 397* 269 Vol au vent (Ap. 25.) 367 Walnuts, to pickle (Ap. 116.) 401 Walnut catchup, 438 282 Water gruel, immediately, 572 352 ---- various relishes for, 572 ib. Water souchy, 156 175 Watkins, the Rev. G., his hints to heads of families 25 Welsh rabbit, 539 330 Wheatears, 81 146 White sauce, 364, 365 258 ---- wine whey, 566 351 Whitings, fried, 153 174 Whip syllabub (Ap. 50.) 375 Widgeons and teal, 75 144 Wild ducks, 74 ib. Wine sauce for venison, &c., 344 253 ---- eschalot, 402 271 Woodcock, 76 144 ---- has the same honours paid to it as the Grand Lama, note to 76 ib. Wow wow sauce for boiled beef, 328 249 Weights and measures for cookery, table of 64 Weight, the diminution that takes place in cooking 70 Yorkshire pudding, 552 341 THE END Transcriber's Note The following typographical errors were corrected. Page Error viii DR. MANDEVILLE changed to Dr. MANDEVILLE x avail nothing. changed to avail nothing, xiii Confectionary, changed to Confectionery 17 PALATEABLENESS changed to PALATABLENESS 18 appetite."--MILTON changed to appetite."--MILTON. 18 noxious, [text missing] every changed to noxious, and that every based on comparison with a different edition of the book 31 "For instance: changed to For instance: 32 shoulder of mutton," changed to "shoulder of mutton," 33 BOILED; changed to BOILED;" Fn. 15-* WATERHOUSE' changed to WATERHOUSE'S Fn. 17-* A. C., _Jun._ changed to _A. C., Jun._ Fn. 20-* DR. CHEYNE changed to Dr. CHEYNE FN. 30-* l'esprit du corps changed to l'esprit de corps 43 (No. 530.[+]) changed to (No. 530.*) 48 your enemies.' changed to your enemies." 56 head.(No. changed to head (No. 62 DIAL (all caps) changed to DIAL (small caps) Fn. 55-* tools. changed to tools." Fn. 66-* pp. 3. 6. changed to pp. 3, 6. 77 made wtih changed to made with 82 And as now changed to "And as now 85 vigilant attention changed to vigilant attention. 94 eshallot changed to eschalot 96 is delightful changed to is delightful. 98 made (No. 185* changed to made (No. 185 Fn. 91-* No 440 changed to No. 440 Fn. 91-[+] No. 299. changed to No. 299, Fn. 92-¶ acid milder changed to acid milder. Fn. 93-§ _Monsieur's_ remarks changed to _Monsieur's_ remarks, 104 eshalots, changed to eschalots, 109 eshalot changed to eschalot 114 table-spoonsful changed to table-spoonfuls 118 _Ham_,(No. 14.) changed to _Ham_,--(No. 14.) 118 Grimmed for table changed to Trimmed for table 120 No. 2 of No. 361 changed to No. 2 of No. 364 123 No. 67* changed to No. 66* 126 quarter changed to quarter. Fn. 123-* _Ibid_ changed to _Ibid._ Fn. 123-* No. 67* changed to No. 66* 154 No. 521 and No. 91 changed to No. 521 and No. 90 157 escaloped. changed to escalloped. 173 (NO. 145) changed to (No. 145) 179 beshamell changed to bechamel 183 No. 67. changed to No. 167. 191 note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 Fn. 168-* same uality changed to same quality 195 beef broth (No. 185*) changed to beef broth (No. 185) 195 see No. 364* changed to see No. 364 201 put in at changed to put in it 204 into this soup. changed to into this soup, 212 No. 5. changed to No. 5.) 213 (No. 329.) changed to (No. 239.) Fn. 193-[+] "_The Art of_ changed to _The Art of_ Fn. 219-* The footnote marker was missing from the footnote and was added. Fn. 223-[+] note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 240 with the onions changed to with the onions, 249 beef,(as changed to beef, (as 257 NB. To hash changed to N.B. To hash 257 _minced Veal_ changed to _minced Veal._ 258 _White Sauce._ changed to _White Sauce._-- 262 to the rest" changed to to the rest." 263 (No 397) changed to (No. 397) 275 p. 200 changed to p. 200. 281 red, &c; changed to red, &c.; 292 tea and changed to tea- and 293 into a mug. changed to into a mug, 295 bottled ale changed to bottled ale. 298 _Jelly._[298-*] changed to _Jelly._[298-*]-- 299 2-1/2d. changed to 2-1/2_d._ Fn. 278-* which is changed to (which is 304 beef, &c; changed to beef, &c.; 307 _Mutton Broth_, changed to _Mutton Broth_,-- 309 foot of page 266 changed to foot of page 220 315 see Nos. 185* changed to see Nos. 185 316 the cabbage.' changed to the cabbage." 317 No. 67* changed to No. 66* 320 wide, _i e._ changed to wide, _i. e._ 321 (No. 518. changed to (No. 518.) 325 beans, &c changed to beans, &c. 334 accompanied by it. changed to accompanied by it, 341 _Gipsies' way._ changed to _Gipsies' way._-- 347 for bakingare changed to for baking are 353 Obs. on Health changed to _Obs. on Health_ Fn. 304-* note to No. 529 changed to note to No. 529* Fn. 314-* mellow changed to mellow. Fn. 338-[+] The night before changed to "The night before 356 Do do. changed to Do. do. (line below Roasted (No. 35).) 356 Broiled. (No. 521). changed to Broiled (No. 521). 358 Wooodcock changed to Woodcock 359 Feb. & Mar changed to Feb. & Mar. (Broccoli line) 361 _Cut Pastry_ changed to _Cut Pastry._ 363 No. 455 changed to (No. 455 373 No. 47 changed to No. 47.) 380 (No. 69. changed to (No. 69.) 411 private picking, changed to private picking," 414 _fig 3_ changed to _fig. 3_ 415 cutting up of of changed to cutting up of 418 The rips may changed to The ribs may 421 Under Barley, the second and third lines had missing text. It was filled in based on the recipe numbers and confirmed with another edition of the book. ---- broth, ---- ----, 422 (Ap. 119) changed to (Ap. 119.) 423 538,* 539 changed to 538*, 539 423 tail filletted changed to tail filleted 424 Obs. to 372 260 changed to Obs. to 372 261 424 Eschalot sauce changed to Eschalot sauce, 424 386 ib changed to 386 ib. 425 Sept Heur s changed to Sept Heures 425 note 24 changed to note 23 426 Obs. to 372 260 changed to Obs. to 372 261 427 note 92 changed to note 91 427 (Ap. 121) changed to (Ap. 121.) 427 &c.(Ap. 7.) changed to &c. (Ap. 7.) 430 Spinnage, changed to Spinage, 430 378 ib changed to 378 ib. 430 377 ib changed to 377 ib. 431 Birch s changed to Birch's The following words were inconsistently spelled and hyphenated: A-la-mode / Alamode back-bone / backbone baine-marie / bainmarie / bain-marie bay-leaf / bay leaf beef-steak / beefsteak bif-teck / bifteck blanc-mange / blancmange chef-d'oeuvre / chef d'oeuvre cod-fish / codfish craw-fish / crawfish Craw-fish / Crawfish fire-place / fireplace Espagnole / Espagnol Gourmandise / Gourmandize hair-sieve / hair sieve half-pence / halfpence half-penny / halfpenny horse-radish / horseradish _i. e._ / i. e. lemon-peel / lemon peel mean time / meantime _Mem._ / MEM. / _Mem._-- / MEM.-- merry-thought / merrythought morels / morells / morelles N.B. / N. B. obs. / Obs. / _obs._ / _Obs._ (in-paragraph references) _Obs._ / _Obs._-- (beginning of paragraph) over-boiled / overboiled paste-board / pasteboard pepper-corns / peppercorns pyroligneous / pyro-ligneous re-dressed / redressed sauce-pan / saucepan sauce-pans / saucepans scallop / scollop scalloped / scolloped secundùm / secundum sir-loin / sirloin spare-rib / sparerib stew-pan / stewpan stew-pans / stewpans sweet-breads / sweetbreads two-pence / twopence under-side / underside wine-glass / wineglass Other inconsistencies: The position of punctuation relative to close parentheses is not consistent. In some cases, it is inside the parentheses (i.e. ;) or ,)) and in other cases it is outside the parentheses (i.e., ); or ),). This inconsistency has been maintained. The position of the * and . in recipe numbers with * is inconsistent. There is no fig. 5 in the section on carving. 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