Science in the Kitchen by E. E. Kellogg

INTRODUCTION.

1791 words  |  Chapter 2

No one thing over which we have control exerts so marked an influence upon our physical prosperity as the food we eat; and it is no exaggeration to say that well-selected and scientifically prepared food renders the partaker whose digestion permits of its being well assimilated, superior to his fellow-mortals in those qualities which will enable him to cope most successfully with life's difficulties, and to fulfill the purpose of existence in the best and truest manner. The brain and other organs of the body are affected by the quality of the blood which nourishes them, and since the blood is made of the food eaten, it follows that the use of poor food will result in poor blood, poor muscles, poor brains, and poor bodies, incapable of first-class work in any capacity. Very few persons, however, ever stop to inquire what particular foods are best adapted to the manufacture of good blood and the maintenance of perfect health; but whatever gratifies the palate or is most conveniently obtained, is cooked and eaten without regard to its dietetic value. Far too many meals partake of the characteristics of the one described in the story told of a clergyman who, when requested to ask a blessing upon a dinner consisting of bread, hot and tinged with saleratus, meat fried to a crisp, potatoes swimming in grease, mince pie, preserves, and pickles, demurred on the ground that the dinner was "not worth a blessing." He might with equal propriety have added, "and not worth eating." The subject of diet and its relation to human welfare, is one deserving of the most careful consideration. It should be studied as a science, to enable us to choose such materials as are best adapted to our needs under the varying circumstances of climate growth, occupation, and the numerous changing conditions of the human system; as an art, that we may become so skilled in the preparation of the articles selected as to make them both appetizing and healthful. It is an unfortunate fact that even among experienced housekeepers the scientific principles which govern the proper preparation of food, are but little understood, and much unwholesome cookery is the result. The mechanical mixing of ingredients is not sufficient to secure good results; and many of the failures attributed to "poor material," "bad luck," and various other subterfuges to which cooks ignorance of scientific principles. The common method of blindly following recipes, with no knowledge of "the reason why," can hardly fail to be often productive of unsatisfactory results, which to the uninformed seem quite inexplicable. Cookery, when based upon scientific principles, ceases to be the difficult problem it so often appears. Cause and effect follow each other as certainly in the preparation of food as in other things; and with a knowledge of the underlying principles, and faithfulness in carrying out the necessary details, failure becomes almost an impossibility. There is no department of human activity where applied science offers greater advantages than in that of cookery, and in our presentation of the subjects treated in the following pages, we have endeavored, so far as consistent with the scope of this work, to give special prominence to the scientific principles involved in the successful production of wholesome articles of food. We trust our readers will find these principles so plainly elucidated and the subject so interesting, that they will be stimulated to undertake for themselves further study and research in this most important branch of household science. We have aimed also to give special precedence of space to those most important foods, the legumes, and grains and their products, which in the majority of cook books are given but little consideration or are even left out altogether, believing that our readers will be more interested in learning the many palatable ways in which these especially nutritious and inexpensive foods may be prepared, than in a reiteration of such dishes as usually make up the bulk of the average cook book. For reasons stated elsewhere (in the chapter on Milk, Cream, and Butter), we have in the preparation of all recipes made use of cream in place of other fats; but lest there be some who may suppose because cream occupies so frequent a place in the recipes, and because of their inability to obtain that article, the recipes are therefore not adapted to their use, we wish to state that a large proportion of the recipes in which it is mentioned as seasoning, or for dressing, will be found to be very palatable with the cream omitted, or by the use of its place of some one of the many substitutes recommended. We ought also to mention in this connection, that wherever cream is recommended, unless otherwise designated, the quality used in the preparation of the recipes is that of single or twelve hour cream sufficiently diluted with milk, so that one fourth of each quart of milk is reckoned as cream. If a richer quality than this be used, the quantity should be diminished in proportion; otherwise, by the excess of fat, a wholesome food may become a rich, unhealthful dish. In conclusion, the author desires to state that no recipe has been admitted to this work which has not been thoroughly tested by repeated trials, by far the larger share of such being original, either in the combination of the materials used, the method employed, or both materials and method. Care has been taken not to cumber the work with useless and indifferent recipes. It is believed that every recipe will be found valuable, and that the variety offered is sufficiently ample, so that under the most differing circumstances, all may be well served. We trust therefore that those who undertake to use the work as a guide in their culinary practice, will not consider any given recipe a failure because success does not attend their first efforts. Perseverance and a careful study of the directions given, will assuredly bring success to all who possess the natural or acquired qualities essential for the practice of that most useful of the arts,--"Healthful Cookery." ELLA E. KELLOGG. _Battle Creek, April 20, 1892._ Foods The purposes of food are to promote growth, to supply force and heat, and to furnish material to repair the waste which is constantly taking place in the body. Every breath, every thought, every motion, wears out some portion of the delicate and wonderful house in which we live. Various vital processes remove these worn and useless particles; and to keep the body in health, their loss must be made good by constantly renewed supplies of material properly adapted to replenish the worn and impaired tissues. This renovating material must be supplied through the medium of food and drink, and the best food is that by which the desired end may be most readily and perfectly attained. The great diversity in character of the several tissues of the body, makes it necessary that food should contain a variety of elements, in order that each part may be properly nourished and replenished. THE FOOD ELEMENTS.--The various elements found in food are the following: Starch, sugar, fats, albumen, mineral substances, indigestible substances. The digestible food elements are often grouped, according to their chemical composition, into three classes; _vis._, carbonaceous, nitrogenous, and inorganic. The carbonaceous class includes starch, sugar, and fats; the nitrogenous, all albuminous elements; and the inorganic comprises the mineral elements. _Starch_ is only found in vegetable foods; all grains, most vegetables, and some fruits, contain starch in abundance. Several kinds of _sugar_ are made in nature's laboratory; _cane_, _grape_, _fruit_, and _milk_ sugar. The first is obtained from the sugar-cane, the sap of maple trees, and from the beet root. Grape and fruit sugars are found in most fruits and in honey. Milk sugar is one of the constituents of milk. Glucose, an artificial sugar resembling grape sugar, is now largely manufactured by subjecting the starch of corn or potatoes to a chemical process; but it lacks the sweetness of natural sugars, and is by no means a proper substitute for them. _Albumen_ is found in its purest, uncombined state in the white of an egg, which is almost wholly composed of albumen. It exists, combined with other food elements, in many other foods, both animal and vegetable. It is found abundant in oatmeal, and to some extent in the other grains, and in the juices of vegetables. All natural foods contain elements which in many respects resemble _albumen_, and are so closely allied to it that for convenience they are usually classified under the general name of "albumen." The chief of these is _gluten_, which is found in wheat, rye, and barley. _Casein_, found in peas, beans, and milk, and the _fibrin_ of flesh, are elements of this class. _Fats_ are found in both animal and vegetable foods. Of animal fats, butter and suet are common examples. In vegetable form, fat is abundant in nuts, peas, beans, in various of the grains, and in a few fruits, as the olive. As furnished by nature in nuts, legumes, grains, fruits, and milk, this element is always found in a state of fine subdivision, which condition is the one best adapted to its digestion. As most commonly used, in the form of free fats, as butter, lard, etc., it is not only difficult of digestion itself, but often interferes with the digestion of the other food elements which are mixed with it. It was doubtless never intended that fats should be so modified from their natural condition and separated from other food elements as to be used as a separate article of food. The same may be said of the other carbonaceous elements, sugar and starch, neither of which, when used alone, is capable of sustaining life, although when combined in a proper and natural manner with other food elements, they perform a most important part in the nutrition of the body. Most foods contain a percentage of the _mineral_ elements. Grains and milk furnish these elements in abundance. The cellulose, or woody tissue, of vegetables, and the bran of wheat, are examples of _indigestible_ elements, which although they cannot be converted into blood in tissue, serve an important purpose by giving bulk to the food. With the exception of gluten, none of the food elements, when used alone, are capable of supporting life. A true food substance contains some of all the food elements, the amount of each varying in different foods. USES OF THE FOOD ELEMENTS.--Concerning the purpose which these different elements serve, it has been demonstrated by the experiments of eminent physiologists that the carbonaceous elements, which in general comprise the greater bulk of the food, serve three purposes in the body;

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. INTRODUCTION. 3. 2. They are a source of force when taken in connection with other food 4. 3. They replenish the fatty tissues of the body. Of the carbonaceous 5. 1. The teaspoons and tablespoons to be used in measuring, are the silver 6. 2. Any material like flour, sugar, salt, that has been packed, should 7. 3. A cupful of dry material is measured level with the top of the cup, 8. 4. A cupful of liquid is all the cup will contain without running over. 9. 1. Measure both liquid and grain accurately with the same utensil, or 10. 2. Have the water boiling when the grain is introduced, but do not 11. 3. Stir the grain continuously until it has set, but not at all 12. 4. Cook continuously. If it be necessary to replenish the water in the 13. 1. If the fruit is of a late variety, allow it to remain on the tree as 14. 3. Gather the fruit on a dry, cool day, and place in heaps or bins for 15. 4. Carefully sort and pack in barrels, placing those most mellow and 16. 5. Warmth and moisture are the conditions most favorable to 17. 6. The best temperature for keeping fruit is about 34° F., or 2° above 18. introduction of the common potato, which has now taken its place and 19. introduction," he once said to a friend, "Oken asked me to dine with 20. 191. When done, rub through a fine colander to remove all skins and to 21. 191. Put in a square granite-ware dish, which place inside another dish 22. 1. Have the water boiling rapidly when the pudding is placed in the 23. 3. Do not open the steamer and let in the air upon the pudding, until it 24. 1. Milk which becomes sour and curdles within a few hours after it has 25. 2. "Bitter-sweet milk" has cream of a bitter taste, is covered with 26. 3. 'Slimy milk' can be drawn out into fine, ropy fibers. It has an 27. 4. 'Blue milk' is characterized by the appearance on its surface, 28. 5. 'Barnyard milk' is a term used to designate milk taken from unclean 29. 427. It may be thickened with a little flour as for gravy, if preferred. 30. 1. Eat slowly, never filling the mouth very full and avoiding all 31. 2. Masticate thoroughly, keeping the lips closed. Eating and drinking 32. 3. Never speak with the mouth full, nor interrupt another when talking. 33. 4. Do not express a choice for any particular portion or dish, unless 34. 5. Sit conveniently near the table, but not crowded up close against it; 35. 6. Do not tilt back your chair, or lean upon the table with the elbow, 36. 7. It is contrary to good breeding to shovel one's food into the mouth 37. 8. Bread should be broken, not cut. In eating large fruits, like apples 38. 9. Soup is eaten from the side of the spoon, which is filled without 39. 10. Seeds or stones to be rejected should be taken from the lips with a 40. 11. Do not crumble food about your plate, nor in any avoidable way soil 41. 12. Do not hang the napkin about the neck like a bib, but unfold and lay 42. 13. Do not appear impatient to be served, and ordinarily at the home 43. 14. Never reach across a neighbor's plate for anything. If something 44. 16. Drink very sparingly, if at all, while eating, and then do not pour 45. 17. Children should not be allowed to use their fingers to aid 46. 18. To help one's self to butter or any other food from a common dish 47. 19. Never use the handkerchief unnecessarily at the table, and do not 48. 20. It is not considered proper to pick the teeth at table. If this 49. 21. When a meal or course is finished, lay the knife and fork side by 50. 22. Except at a hotel or boarding house, it is not proper to leave the 51. 23. If a guest declines a dish, he need give no reason. "No, I thank

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