Science in the Kitchen by E. E. Kellogg
INTRODUCTION.
1791 words | Chapter 2
No one thing over which we have control exerts so marked an influence
upon our physical prosperity as the food we eat; and it is no
exaggeration to say that well-selected and scientifically prepared food
renders the partaker whose digestion permits of its being well
assimilated, superior to his fellow-mortals in those qualities which
will enable him to cope most successfully with life's difficulties, and
to fulfill the purpose of existence in the best and truest manner. The
brain and other organs of the body are affected by the quality of the
blood which nourishes them, and since the blood is made of the food
eaten, it follows that the use of poor food will result in poor blood,
poor muscles, poor brains, and poor bodies, incapable of first-class
work in any capacity. Very few persons, however, ever stop to inquire
what particular foods are best adapted to the manufacture of good blood
and the maintenance of perfect health; but whatever gratifies the palate
or is most conveniently obtained, is cooked and eaten without regard to
its dietetic value. Far too many meals partake of the characteristics of
the one described in the story told of a clergyman who, when requested
to ask a blessing upon a dinner consisting of bread, hot and tinged with
saleratus, meat fried to a crisp, potatoes swimming in grease, mince
pie, preserves, and pickles, demurred on the ground that the dinner was
"not worth a blessing." He might with equal propriety have added, "and
not worth eating."
The subject of diet and its relation to human welfare, is one deserving
of the most careful consideration. It should be studied as a science, to
enable us to choose such materials as are best adapted to our needs
under the varying circumstances of climate growth, occupation, and the
numerous changing conditions of the human system; as an art, that we may
become so skilled in the preparation of the articles selected as to make
them both appetizing and healthful. It is an unfortunate fact that even
among experienced housekeepers the scientific principles which govern
the proper preparation of food, are but little understood, and much
unwholesome cookery is the result. The mechanical mixing of ingredients
is not sufficient to secure good results; and many of the failures
attributed to "poor material," "bad luck," and various other subterfuges
to which cooks ignorance of scientific principles. The common method of
blindly following recipes, with no knowledge of "the reason why," can
hardly fail to be often productive of unsatisfactory results, which to
the uninformed seem quite inexplicable.
Cookery, when based upon scientific principles, ceases to be the
difficult problem it so often appears. Cause and effect follow each
other as certainly in the preparation of food as in other things; and
with a knowledge of the underlying principles, and faithfulness in
carrying out the necessary details, failure becomes almost an
impossibility. There is no department of human activity where applied
science offers greater advantages than in that of cookery, and in our
presentation of the subjects treated in the following pages, we have
endeavored, so far as consistent with the scope of this work, to give
special prominence to the scientific principles involved in the
successful production of wholesome articles of food. We trust our
readers will find these principles so plainly elucidated and the subject
so interesting, that they will be stimulated to undertake for
themselves further study and research in this most important branch of
household science. We have aimed also to give special precedence of
space to those most important foods, the legumes, and grains and their
products, which in the majority of cook books are given but little
consideration or are even left out altogether, believing that our
readers will be more interested in learning the many palatable ways in
which these especially nutritious and inexpensive foods may be prepared,
than in a reiteration of such dishes as usually make up the bulk of the
average cook book.
For reasons stated elsewhere (in the chapter on Milk, Cream, and
Butter), we have in the preparation of all recipes made use of cream in
place of other fats; but lest there be some who may suppose because
cream occupies so frequent a place in the recipes, and because of their
inability to obtain that article, the recipes are therefore not adapted
to their use, we wish to state that a large proportion of the recipes in
which it is mentioned as seasoning, or for dressing, will be found to be
very palatable with the cream omitted, or by the use of its place of
some one of the many substitutes recommended. We ought also to mention
in this connection, that wherever cream is recommended, unless otherwise
designated, the quality used in the preparation of the recipes is that
of single or twelve hour cream sufficiently diluted with milk, so that
one fourth of each quart of milk is reckoned as cream. If a richer
quality than this be used, the quantity should be diminished in
proportion; otherwise, by the excess of fat, a wholesome food may become
a rich, unhealthful dish.
In conclusion, the author desires to state that no recipe has been
admitted to this work which has not been thoroughly tested by repeated
trials, by far the larger share of such being original, either in the
combination of the materials used, the method employed, or both
materials and method. Care has been taken not to cumber the work with
useless and indifferent recipes. It is believed that every recipe will
be found valuable, and that the variety offered is sufficiently ample,
so that under the most differing circumstances, all may be well served.
We trust therefore that those who undertake to use the work as a guide
in their culinary practice, will not consider any given recipe a failure
because success does not attend their first efforts. Perseverance and a
careful study of the directions given, will assuredly bring success to
all who possess the natural or acquired qualities essential for the
practice of that most useful of the arts,--"Healthful Cookery."
ELLA E. KELLOGG.
_Battle Creek, April 20, 1892._
Foods
The purposes of food are to promote growth, to supply force and heat,
and to furnish material to repair the waste which is constantly taking
place in the body. Every breath, every thought, every motion, wears out
some portion of the delicate and wonderful house in which we live.
Various vital processes remove these worn and useless particles; and to
keep the body in health, their loss must be made good by constantly
renewed supplies of material properly adapted to replenish the worn and
impaired tissues. This renovating material must be supplied through the
medium of food and drink, and the best food is that by which the desired
end may be most readily and perfectly attained. The great diversity in
character of the several tissues of the body, makes it necessary that
food should contain a variety of elements, in order that each part may
be properly nourished and replenished.
THE FOOD ELEMENTS.--The various elements found in food are the
following: Starch, sugar, fats, albumen, mineral substances,
indigestible substances.
The digestible food elements are often grouped, according to their
chemical composition, into three classes; _vis._, carbonaceous,
nitrogenous, and inorganic. The carbonaceous class includes starch,
sugar, and fats; the nitrogenous, all albuminous elements; and the
inorganic comprises the mineral elements.
_Starch_ is only found in vegetable foods; all grains, most vegetables,
and some fruits, contain starch in abundance. Several kinds of _sugar_
are made in nature's laboratory; _cane_, _grape_, _fruit_, and _milk_
sugar. The first is obtained from the sugar-cane, the sap of maple
trees, and from the beet root. Grape and fruit sugars are found in most
fruits and in honey. Milk sugar is one of the constituents of milk.
Glucose, an artificial sugar resembling grape sugar, is now largely
manufactured by subjecting the starch of corn or potatoes to a chemical
process; but it lacks the sweetness of natural sugars, and is by no
means a proper substitute for them. _Albumen_ is found in its purest,
uncombined state in the white of an egg, which is almost wholly composed
of albumen. It exists, combined with other food elements, in many other
foods, both animal and vegetable. It is found abundant in oatmeal, and
to some extent in the other grains, and in the juices of vegetables. All
natural foods contain elements which in many respects resemble
_albumen_, and are so closely allied to it that for convenience they are
usually classified under the general name of "albumen." The chief of
these is _gluten_, which is found in wheat, rye, and barley. _Casein_,
found in peas, beans, and milk, and the _fibrin_ of flesh, are elements
of this class.
_Fats_ are found in both animal and vegetable foods. Of animal fats,
butter and suet are common examples. In vegetable form, fat is abundant
in nuts, peas, beans, in various of the grains, and in a few fruits, as
the olive. As furnished by nature in nuts, legumes, grains, fruits, and
milk, this element is always found in a state of fine subdivision, which
condition is the one best adapted to its digestion. As most commonly
used, in the form of free fats, as butter, lard, etc., it is not only
difficult of digestion itself, but often interferes with the digestion
of the other food elements which are mixed with it. It was doubtless
never intended that fats should be so modified from their natural
condition and separated from other food elements as to be used as a
separate article of food. The same may be said of the other carbonaceous
elements, sugar and starch, neither of which, when used alone, is
capable of sustaining life, although when combined in a proper and
natural manner with other food elements, they perform a most important
part in the nutrition of the body. Most foods contain a percentage of
the _mineral_ elements. Grains and milk furnish these elements in
abundance. The cellulose, or woody tissue, of vegetables, and the bran
of wheat, are examples of _indigestible_ elements, which although they
cannot be converted into blood in tissue, serve an important purpose by
giving bulk to the food.
With the exception of gluten, none of the food elements, when used
alone, are capable of supporting life. A true food substance contains
some of all the food elements, the amount of each varying in different
foods.
USES OF THE FOOD ELEMENTS.--Concerning the purpose which these
different elements serve, it has been demonstrated by the experiments of
eminent physiologists that the carbonaceous elements, which in general
comprise the greater bulk of the food, serve three purposes in the body;
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