The Employments of Women: A Cyclopædia of Woman's Work by Virginia Penny
introduction of women into the business. I saw three sisters bronzing in
26836 words | Chapter 32
New York. They told me each receives $5 a week, and works about nine
hours a day. It requires but a few months' practice to become perfect,
and seemed to be an easy business. The young ladies employed at it
looked genteel enough to grace any calling. Men get $10 a week. Women do
it just as well, if not a little better, and accomplish just as much,
yet receive only $5. I called in the store of the Ornamental Iron Works,
New York. The young man says they employ about twenty-five German
bronzers. It is a work easily done, and would require but a short time
to learn. Women could just as well do it as men. If women were employed,
it would be desirable to have a separate room for them to work in. Their
men work ten hours a day, and receive from $1.50 to $2 a day.
=466. Canvas and Cotton Bag Makers.= The firm of B. E. C. & Co. employ
about forty females during the whole year, and seventy during the
summer. Men cut out the bags. The folding and turning is done by little
girls, who receive, some $1.50 per week, and some more, while the sewing
is done by machines, for which the operators receive $4.50 per week. I
do not remember what the spoolers were paid. This business is confined
exclusively to seaports or river cities, and is not very extensive. The
usual time required is ten hours. For extra work, girls receive double
wages. C. & Co. have certain regulations, requiring morality and order.
The girls were more cheerful, neat, and genteel-looking than the general
run of work girls. They have a dressing room, where each one has a peg
for her bonnet and shawl, and a small box in which to lay her dinner.
They have washbowls and all the conveniences needed. Spring and fall are
their most busy times, but they are able to keep their hands all the
year in prosperous times. They are always busy just before the sailing
of vessels, as they supply many vessels with bags to carry grain. They
are well located for their business, being immediately on the river. The
prospect for learners C. thinks very good, as bags are considered almost
as essential as boats; and now they can be purchased so cheaply they are
used for purposes to which they were never applied before. V. employs
fifteen girls all the year, and sometimes extra help. Some girls get
$3.50, and some $4 a week, of ten hours a day. Most of their machines
are propelled by hot air. They never have any trouble in getting hands.
There are a few bag factories in the West. W. & O. make cotton bags for
flour, seed, grain, &c. We saw the girls sewing on machines moved by
steam. They are paid $3 a week, ten hours a day. Their girls are not
punctual, and are so often absent that they find it necessary to employ
more hands than they want, that they may not get out of a supply. I met
an old woman with bolts of heavy unbleached cotton, who was going to
make up bags, sewing them with the needle. She receives seventy-five
cents for one hundred bags. A bag manufacturer in Boston writes: "We pay
by the week; girls, from $3 to $4--men, $7.25. The men's branch requires
from six to twelve months to become proficient and reliable. Women
require about one week. Perseverance and industry are needed by workers.
Business in future is dubious. Winter and spring are the best seasons,
but we are generally employed ten months out of the year. The hands work
ten hours, unless driven up by brisk trade, when extra wages are paid
_pro rata_. They receive all the comforts which women of this class
require, viz., sufficient to live upon, with a small surplus for the
priest, and to send to 'ould Ireland.' The labor of the men and women
are entirely dissimilar. The advantages have been entirely in favor of
the city of Boston; but from present indications, I fear that this
business, if done at all, will be done in the cities of Charleston,
Savannah, Mobile, and New Orleans. The women can scarcely read; none can
write. They can have free access to the city library and free evening
schools. Board, $1.25--mostly whole families in one room."
=467. Carriage and Car Painters.= At a very large car establishment in
New York, I was told that when they take boys to learn ornamental
painting, they pay $2.40 a week the first year. After that, eight cents
a day more, the next year; and so continue until the apprenticeship
expires. Three or four years are usually given. We saw a foreman
ornamenting the side of a car to be sent to Liverpool, who was taken by
the firm when a penniless boy. He now has $3,000 deposited with his
employers, drawing a handsome interest. The painters are paid
twenty-five cents an hour while ornamenting cars, and omnibuses. They do
their work better than when paid by the piece. They prefer Germans, as
they have more taste, and are more easily obtained. Miss H. knew a young
lady that painted a cutter. Her father was a coach painter, and she
painted in oils on canvas. A lady, if she would give time and attention,
might become an ornamental painter of carriages, omnibuses, and cars. E.
G. & Co., car builders, in Troy, write: "There are some portions of our
ornamental painting women might be instructed to perform, that would be
suitable for them, and, if proficient, they could make good wages at
it."
=468. Carriage Trimmers.= I was told by G., a carriage maker, that women
usually make the cushions and trimmings for carriages. At a railroad-car
and omnibus factory, the trimmer told me the work was too hard for
women. The sewing is all done by hand. Much wax must be used on the
thread, and a machine will not draw the threads tight enough. A shield
of leather is worn on the little finger. I have read that "landscape
painters, upholsterers, and trimmers of cars and carriages receive from
$1.50 to $2 per day, of ten hours, in New York and New Jersey. Women are
not generally employed; but they are occasionally serviceable in
preparing the hair for seats, by which they could make, at steady
employment, from $3 to $5 per week." B., at his carriage manufactory,
said he intends employing two women to make curtains for his carriages.
He now employs a girl to make covers for them. He thinks the curtains
and much of the lining might be stitched by a machine. He thinks women
might make fair wages at it--say, $4 or $5 a week. A carriage maker in
Boston writes me: "I employ female labor only to the amount of about $50
a year. It is done by the piece, and a woman who is tolerably smart with
her needle can in a very short time learn to do it, and can earn from
eight to ten cents an hour. The work is irregular, a large portion of it
coming in the months of April, May, and June, and sometimes requiring to
be done at short notice." Car builders in Albany, N. Y., write: "Dear
Madam--In reply to your inquiries, would say that, out of seventy-five
to eighty hands employed by us, two only are women. One has charge of a
sewing machine, the other picks curled hair. They have constant
employment, at $5 a week." Carriage makers in Syracuse reply to a
circular, saying: "We employ one lady to run the sewing machine in
making leather and cloth tops for carriages. The work is healthy. We pay
from $3 to $4 per week, of ten hours a day. Girls receive from one third
to one half as much as men. It requires about two months to learn.
Learners receive from $2 to $2.50 per week. The prospect for more such
work to women is increasing. The employment is steady. There is a demand
for women capable of good, heavy stitching." C--s, of New Haven, write:
"We employ about twelve women in carriage trimming, running sewing
machines, &c. Good wages are earned--from $5 to $9 per week, of ten
hours a day. We pay mostly by the week. At the same kind of work our
girls earn as much as men. The main part of their business being sewing,
women are preferable at the same wages as men. In two days any ordinary
person can learn to use a sewing machine; but to learn all parts of the
business would require from two to three months' time. Girls receive a
small compensation while learning. They are never out of employment,
except in hard times, like the past winter. Two thirds are American
girls. The girls employed by us are intelligent and happy; earning good
wages, and always have work when we are doing anything. Board, $2.50."
=469. Chair Seaters.= The putting of seats in chairs, the material being
of cane, hickory, flags, willow, and corn husks, is carried on very
often in orphan asylums, institutions for the blind, or for the deaf and
dumb, and in penitentiaries. There is a large establishment in
Worcester, Mass., where women are employed. At the House of Refuge, on
Randall's Island, I saw the boys seating chairs with rattan. It is
learned in three months. It is very severe on the fingers at first. In a
small second-hand furniture store, I saw a woman seating chairs with
cane. I stepped in and inquired of the woman how long it required to
learn the work. She said she learned it in one day, of a German who kept
a furniture store next door, and who wished her to work for him. She
could seat two chairs in a day, and earn by doing so a dollar. For such
a chair as she would be paid sixty-two cents the cane would cost twelve
cents, leaving her a profit of fifty cents a chair for her work. It cuts
the fingers some. She has most family work in winter; but her husband
can always get enough for her from the stores. Another German woman
seating chairs said she could seat three in a day. She charged fifty
cents apiece for ordinary chairs. At a chair-seating factory, I saw
several girls caning chairs for the proprietor, who receives orders from
stores. We were told that it is always piecework. Some girls earn from
sixty to seventy-five cents a day. They have work all the year. The
girls were very clean-looking. They stood while at work. A girl told us
it would take but three weeks to learn. Work is most apt to be slack in
January, February, August, and September. The work is mostly done by
German women. At another factory, I was told the prospect for work is
very good. The man said, three years ago he had more work for his women
than they could do. They are not paid while learning, and have work the
same all the year. His best hands can earn $4 or $5 a week. The work is
always paid for by the piece. The superintendent of the Monroe County
Penitentiary, N. Y., writes: "We employ our female convicts at the
manufacture of both flag and cane chair seats. They are equally adapted
to the employment of women; the flag seats, however, cannot be made
except near a chair manufactory, because of the expense of transporting
the frames upon which they are made. The cane-seat frames can be easily
transported; but the market is overstocked, and has been for years. They
are made in many Northern and more Eastern prisons, and are made by both
sexes. At the Albany (N. Y.) Prison, the females are employed at
cane-chair seating, and at some part of the manufacture of shoes. At the
Erie County Penitentiary, Buffalo, N. Y., the female convicts are
employed at cane chair seating and packing hardware, manufactured by the
male convicts; and at the Onondago County Penitentiary, Syracuse, caning
chair seats. New York, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and Michigan are the
only States, probably, having county prisons, where the convicts are
regularly employed. Cane seating is a business employing many females
(free labor) in Massachusetts and New Hampshire, and is well adapted to
girls and women of the lower grades of intelligence; and the same is
applicable to flag seating. They can earn, on an average, about thirty
cents per day. The business may be acquired in a few days--say, thirty."
The proprietor of the Oswego chair factory writes: "I have in my employ
about forty women and girls in the cane-seating department. An attentive
worker, possessing ordinary skill, can earn about fifty cents per day,
of ten hours. Young persons of either sex are much more sprightly at the
work than older persons." By a chair manufacturer in Fitchburg, Mass.,
several hundreds of women, girls, and children are employed in seating
chairs, which they do at home.
=470. China Menders.= All parts of this work are very suitable for
women. Covering and repairing fans, mending china, wax dolls, works of
virtu, &c., require care and taste. Connected with this might be the
mending of jewelry, card cases, work boxes, and other ornaments of the
toilet. A china mender told me he estimates his time at twenty-five
cents an hour. His prices vary, according to the quality of the article,
and the time and care required. He sells the composition for cementing
at twenty-five cents a bottle. His work was beautifully done. I talked
with another china mender and glass driller. After the fourth of July he
goes to the country and mends ware. Some learn his business in a short
time. He charges $10 to teach to make cement, drill, and mend articles.
He thinks, in Boston, Philadelphia, and Brooklyn, there are probably
openings. He says money can be made at the business by advertising, and
having some one to go for the articles and collect the money. He is
recommended by one customer to another, and so has enough to do; yet,
from the want of capital, barely makes a living. If he could get a place
in a china store, ladies could get their china mended there, and the
store would give him some. He makes between thirty and forty kinds of
cement. Some of them stand water. If a lady would learn, he would pay
her $3 a week for her services.
=471. Cigar Makers.= At F.'s, Philadelphia, we were told that girls who
make cigars are usually idle; but when we afterward saw the rapid motion
of their fingers, we felt disposed to doubt the charge. Habits of order,
temperance, industry, and the _reverse_, are said to run in some trades.
F. had heard some employer lamenting that there is no such thing as a
sober reed-cutter. May not the flavor of tobacco, in making cigars,
produce an excitement that craves some artificial stimulus? We think it
would not be strange if it did; but have no means of ascertaining, and
hope that it does not. Bending over was the only item mentioned by F. as
being uncomfortable or injurious in the work. "In Philadelphia, the
whole number of employés, journeymen and girls, engaged in making
cigars, is fully four thousand. The average labor expended upon each
thousand cigars costs $3.50, and the average cost of each thousand
cigars is $8." In Philadelphia, many Americans work at the business; but
in New York, almost all are Germans. In Germany, many women make cigars.
A cigar maker told me that some women find the odor too strong; and even
men with weak lungs are likely to have the consumption, if they work at
it long. He pays women the same price as men, and he pays according to
the quality and the workmanship--$2, $3, $4, $5, and $6 per thousand.
Quickness in the use of the fingers is necessary. He has never known
women to make the finest cigars. At K.'s, New York, I saw some bright,
pleasant-looking girls at work. They are paid six cents a hundred. One
girl told me she generally made thirteen hundred a day--seventy-eight
cents. Women receive the same rates of wages as men. The son of the
proprietor told me he had thought the work not altogether healthy; for
the men you see working at the business are pale and thin. His father's
girls are kept busy all the year. Girls generally make from $3 to $4 a
week. There are enough of girls at it in New York, though there are but
few places where girls are employed. The atmosphere almost stifled me,
the tobacco scent was so strong. I inquired of a girl if she thought it
unhealthy. She said no--that when she first came there, her head ached
all the time, and she had constant nausea of the stomach; but now she
never notices the smell of the tobacco, and does not feel any bad
effects. She said she had learned to make cigars in three weeks; another
girl said she learned it in one week. In summer, when the days are long,
a girl earns most. A bundler is paid the best price, as she receives six
cents a hundred. It is very dirty work. A cigar dealer told me he pays
from $2 up to $6 per thousand. A man can make two hundred per day, and
so earn from 40 cents to $1.20. He thinks it not unhealthy, where there
is a circulation of air. The rapidity in making cigars depends much on
the quality of the tobacco. Some leaves are not so well dried, nor so
fine and perfect, as others. Such, of course, require a longer time to
make. D., New York, says women mostly make the quality called sixes; and
he knows that, farther East, in making that kind they often earn $1 a
day. They can make the common ones more rapidly than men. He attributes
the inability of women to make fine cigars to the want of instruction.
Men do not like to teach them, because they are afraid of the
competition that may be created, causing them to lose work or have to do
it at lower wages. Now and then a woman may be found who makes cigars
equal to any man. It requires a knowledge of tobacco, to select the
different kinds for the various grades. Some judgment and intelligence
are needed to cut the leaf economically, and to select tobacco of proper
strength for making various brands. It is usual for a boy to serve three
years, who is paid about $30 a year, and boarded. He has boys fifteen
years of age working for him as journeymen. He says cigar makers in New
York earn from $6 to $15 per week. Good hands can usually find
employment. It can easily be learned in one year. All seasons are
favorable for the work. From five hundred to fifteen hundred cigars are
made in a day, according to the expertness of the manipulator and the
kind of tobacco. Machines have not as yet been found to work well. The
machine cigars are finished at the end by hand. He remarked that
machines never can succeed so well as men, until they have the brains of
men. A very nice widow, who kept a cigar store in New York, told me that
many more women are employed in making cigars in Philadelphia than in
New York; but the cigars made and sold there are mostly of the cheap
kind, selling for two or three cents apiece. Six months' practice is
required by a learner, to become perfect. Careful and rapid movement of
the fingers, and ability to use the left hand, are desirable. I would
suggest that a few smart women learn of a competent workman to make the
best quality, and instruct several of their own sex. I find the making
of cigars is paid for, altogether, by the thousand, and cigar makers
earn from $3 to $18 a week. The usual price paid for a thousand cigars
is $5, and a fast worker can make fifteen hundred a day.
=472. Cigar-End Finders.= Mayhew says: "There are, strictly speaking,
none who make a living by picking up the ends of cigars thrown away as
useless by the smokers in the streets; but there are very many who
employ themselves, from time to time, in collecting them. How they are
disposed of, is unknown; but it is supposed that they are resold to some
of the large manufacturers of cigars, and go to form a component part of
a new stock of the best Havanas. There are five persons, residing in
different parts of London, who are known to purchase cigar ends. In
Naples, the sale of cigar ends is a regular street traffic. In Paris,
the ends thus collected are sold as cheap tobacco to the poor. In the
low lodging-houses of London, the ends, when dried, are cut up and sold
to such of their fellow lodgers as are anxious to enjoy their pipe at
the cheapest possible rate."
=473. Cinder Gatherers.= I saw some girls gathering cinders. They burn
them at home, after washing them. One pailful lasts from one and a half
to two days. The larger girls gather two pails a day, generally; the
smaller girls each gather one.
=474. Clear Starchers.= The doing up of muslin, in large cities, has
made for itself a separate calling. Where there is constant employment,
it pays well. Mrs. N. charges from sixteen to twenty-five cents for
doing up a set of muslin. She does most of the work herself, as she
feels responsible for the way in which it is done, and would be afraid a
stranger might tear or burn the muslin. When she has not enough to do,
she fills up her time crocheting for the stores. I think the best
locations must be in a part of the city where the best residences are.
=475. Clock Makers.= The amount and variety of wooden clocks
manufactured in this country are very great. The low price at which they
sell, puts it in the power of almost every one to purchase. Clock-case
and clock-movement making are two distinct branches. Connecticut is the
only State in which clock movements are made; but there are many shops
all over the North in which the cases are manufactured. In 1845, there
were twenty establishments in New York city, in which the cases were
made. "Wages of clock makers are poor. Women are occasionally employed
in painting the cases of clocks, painting the dials, and making part of
the movements." The New Haven Clock Company employ women to paint the
glass tablets, and in lettering, or putting the figures on the dial, at
which work they can earn from 90 cents to $1 per day, of ten hours. They
also use quite a number in making trimmings, and the lighter part of the
movements, at which they earn about seventy-five cents per day. All
their work is done by the piece. The time necessary to learn depends
much on the intelligence and aptness of the person. Manufacturers of
clock dials in Farmington, Conn., write: "We employ twelve American
women figuring clock dials. The spirit of turpentine used is unhealthy
to some. They are paid by the piece, and average $2.50, with board. Men
are not employed in the same department. It requires about four weeks to
learn, and learners are furnished with board. The amount of employment
in future is indefinite. Fall, winter, and spring are the best seasons
for work; but constant employment is given by us. Board, $2."
=476. Clothes-Pin Makers.= A clothes-pin manufacturer in Vermont writes:
"Women are employed in packing clothes pins, and are paid from 25 to 50
cents per day, usually working ten hours. Our women are Americans. The
clothes-pin business should be carried on in a sparsely settled
community, where timber can be obtained at cheap rates."
=477. Clothes Repairers.= We have seen it suggested that shops for
repairing, remodelling, and remaking ladies' clothes, would, in large
cities, if conducted by competent persons, probably yield a support. The
mending of ladies' shoes, and mending second-hand ones to sell again,
could employ the time of a number.
=478. Cork Assorters and Sole Stitchers.= The principal use made of cork
in this country is for bottle stoppers. It is also used in making cork
soles for shoes. Cork is mostly imported from Spain, Portugal, and the
south of France, in large blocks, and cut in the shapes wanted. A member
of a large cork-cutting company at the East writes: "In France, Spain,
and Portugal, women are employed to a limited extent in cutting the
smaller description of corks, and a few are also employed in England,
but not to any extent." He thinks the employment not suitable for women,
and says none are employed in this country. But from the public reports
of the city of his residence, I find women are employed as cork cutters
in that city. At one establishment, we saw men at work cutting corks.
There did not appear any objection to women employing themselves in this
trade. A good deal of practice is required. S., of New York, cuts by
machine, and employs six girls to assort. He pays 50 cents a day, of ten
hours. At another cork store, I was told they employ boys and girls to
assort, who receive from $2 to $3 a week. The coverings of cork soles
are put on by women with sewing machines. A good hand, we were told, can
make eight dozen pairs a day, and is paid eighteen cents a dozen. I
suppose it requires at least a day to cut out and baste on the covering
of that number; so the compensation is not as great as one might at
first suppose. Some can baste five dozen a day, and could stitch from
twelve to twenty dozen a day. Girls are paid 10 cents a dozen for
basting, and 6 cents per dozen for stitching them on machines. A
cork-sole manufacturer in the upper part of the city, pays for basting
covers on, 10 cents a dozen. Some women baste five or six dozen a day.
It requires care and a little skill. If not properly done, it is almost
impossible to stitch them correctly. He pays 6 cents a dozen for
stitching, and an operator can stitch from twelve to twenty dozen a day.
He has often sold two hundred dozen in a year.
=479. Daguerreotype Apparatus.= In most large cities, daguerreotype
apparatus is manufactured. A maker of daguerreotype cases and materials
told me that his girls earn from 50 to 75 cents a day, the latter being
the highest price ever paid. S., whose factory is in New Haven, employs
about one hundred and fifty girls. It is piecework. The business is
increasing, but still is so limited that it cannot furnish employment
for a great many. No difficulty is found in getting hands, as there are
a great many girls in New Haven. No factory in the South or West. New
York is the depot for everything made in a limited quantity, and for
everything new in style. G. Brothers have given work all the year until
lately. It is piecework. Girls earn from $4 to $6 a week. It does not
take a smart girl more than eight days to learn. The busy time commences
in April. It is an increasing business. The foreman at A.'s factory said
a nice, steady, cleanly girl, that has sufficient dignity to command
respect, can always get work. One that is not very sensitive to
ridicule, and independent in the performance of duty, will be sure to
succeed in that establishment; for so many learners are taken in and
need supervision, that such a one is sure to be prized. He has
seventy-five girls. It requires but a week to learn, and the girl that
instructs gets the profit of that week's labor. In some branches they
stand, in some they sit. They are paid by the piece, and earn from $2 to
$6 a week. Some of their girls learn bookbinding; so, when there is much
to do in that line, they find it difficult to get hands. The manufacture
of daguerreotype apparatus is increasing; so the prospect for learners
is good. Most of his hands have work all the year. He has found many
work girls very trifling. (No wonder, with such training, and so little
encouragement to do right.) They have all their photograph pictures
colored by ladies in New York, except the glass ones. It pays well, and
is done at home. I think some lady would do well to learn to color the
glass ones. No manufactories West or South. A firm in Waterbury write:
"We employ twelve women making daguerreotype mattings, &c. We prefer
them, because men work better with a few women to work with them. We pay
by the piece. They earn $3 per week, ten hours a day. They are paid the
same as male labor in the same business. It requires one month to learn.
Activity and common sense are all that is necessary for a learner. The
majority are Americans, and pay for board $1.75 per week."
=480. Feather Dressers.= Those that purify the feathers of beds, also
renovate the hair and moss of mattresses. A gentleman told me he thought
the business of a feather dresser too hard for a woman. Carrying bags of
feathers, weighing them, assorting and filling other bags, he considered
too heavy. Feathers are cleaned by steam. Some people, to renovate
feathers, place them in the sun for a few days in summer, and then bake
them. There is never any need of renovating feathers, if they are
properly cured at first.
=481. Flag Makers.= At A.'s, New York, the young man said it requires
about a year to learn the business thoroughly. The hands employed in the
house are paid by the week, and receive $4. They work from half-past
seven to six o'clock, having an hour at noon. Those working out of the
house are paid by the piece. They do not always have enough of good
hands. They do not require the girls to invent designs, but like to have
them quick to understand and execute any particular device or new
pattern. To sew well and rapidly are the principal qualifications. He
thinks about two hundred women are employed in this way in summer, but
not more than fifty in winter. The sewing and embroidering are confined
exclusively to females. The cutting is mostly done by those who carry on
the business, whether men or women. Learners receive a compensation of
$2 per week while learning, after which they receive from $4 to $6 per
week. Some employers require their hands to spend six months at it as
learners; but any one that can sew neatly, and has taste, could as well
make a flag, after it is cut out and basted, as a bedquilt. The most
busy seasons are spring, summer, and fall. When employed by the week,
the hours are ten. The business is pretty well filled. Probably the most
flags are made for vessels, and the next most for military and other
processions. A flag maker told me he employs some girls and women,
paying from thirty-seven to fifty cents a day, of ten hours, to those
working in his rooms. Those that work at home, often earn seventy-five
cents, as they sew in the evening also, and are paid by the piece. He
does all his cutting. He has most work to do in summer and in political
campaigns. In winter, vessels are laid up, and consequently no flags are
wanted for them. Most work is done in seaports. More is probably done in
Boston than any other city. In Philadelphia, flag stitching is done by
machines. He will not have it done so, because it will throw women out
of employment, and their pay is small enough at best. He takes those
that can sew, and pays from the first. He complains that most women are
mere machines, and display no intelligence in their work. (Query: Whose
fault is it?) Mrs. McF. pays her girls $3 a week, of nine and a half
hours. She employs eight now (January, 1861), but sixteen in summer. In
summer she makes flags for vessels, but in winter she has made national
flags. When she wants any intricate pattern prepared, she employs a
regular designer, but cuts the goods herself. Ability to draw well is a
great assistance to a flag maker. She does all her own cutting, even to
the letters that are placed on her flags. Her forewoman sometimes
assists in cutting the figures. She works some for a house in Mobile
that sells flags. It requires taste and ingenuity to succeed, but a good
sewer can soon do the mechanical part. She has been in the business
nineteen years. We suppose there are some openings in the South for this
business.
=482. Furniture Painters.= F., who confines his business to the
ornamenting of furniture, says it requires taste and a knowledge of
colors. He thinks the Americans excel the Europeans in applying ornament
to works of utility. He has a man of twenty-five that he employed when a
boy in his store. He observed that he had such talents as would make him
a good ornamental painter, so he gave him instruction. The first year he
paid him $4 a week; the next, $6; and now he earns from $12 to $20. The
young man invents when F. has given him an idea of the style he wishes.
A manufacturer of enamelled furniture said no women are employed in
enamelling, to his knowledge; that lifting and turning the furniture
about would be too heavy for women. So it would; but they might have a
man to do that. Another one told us he did not know of any women
employed in enamelling furniture; but with a knowledge of painting, they
might be. Men often earn $20 a week at it. A manufacturer of chairs told
me that he pays ornamenters (men) from $9 to $18 a week, of ten hours a
day. The men sit while painting them. A girl must have a natural taste
for such work to succeed. The coloring requires experience. The French
and Germans do most of it. It is piecework. A girl, no doubt, could get
work, if she were competent. The Heywood Chair Company write: "We employ
women to some extent in ornamenting chairs. The work is not considered
especially unhealthy. We pay by the piece, and our women earn from $5 to
$6 per week, averaging ten hours a day, the year round. There is no
difference in the prices between the two sexes. Six months'
apprenticeship is required, at $3 per week. Nimbleness, neatness, taste,
and a true eye are needed in a worker. In ordinary times, there is no
difference in the amount of work. We employ women, because they will do
the same work better, faster, and cheaper than men. We would employ
more, if they could perform other parts of the work. Women are inferior
in strength to men, superior in manual dexterity, neatness, and taste.
All are Americans. We can hardly speak with confidence of any
considerable opening for female labor in our business. Most of our work
requires skilled mechanics, or hard, rough bone and muscle. We have for
five or six years employed all the females we could find room or work
for, and can see no chance for any increase." According to the census of
1860, the number of hands employed in the New England, Middle, and
Western States, in _making_ furniture, were 21,953 males and 1,880
females.
=483. Gilders of Mirror Frames.= About the same arrangements are made
with apprentices in this as in other trades. In the old country, women
do as much of the work in all its branches as men; but in this country,
the custom of women working in shops with men is not so common, and
consequently some females that learned it in the old country will not
engage in it, because of having to work with the men. I have been
informed that in Dublin there are at least forty women employed in
gilding--some in business for themselves. A good male worker earns $12 a
week. Gilders calculate to make twenty cents an hour, the most usual
price for good hands in all trades. In some trades men are paid
twenty-five, some twenty, some eighteen, and in some but fifteen cents
an hour. Gilders that manufacture frames for mirrors and artists, are
most likely to have work all the year. In most shops there is a slack
time just after New Year, and after the Fourth of July. It is a very
close, confining business, in summer, while laying the gold leaf on, as
it is so light it is apt to fly, and should be done in a close room. It
is not at all unhealthy. Most of the work is done standing; but, I
think, in gilding, women are permitted to sit. A German that sells
ornamental furniture, thinks women might do the gilding on furniture. G.
employs a number of girls in gilding oval frames. They earn, on an
average, from $4 to $4.50. It requires but a short time to learn the
business. B. used to employ some for the same purpose, paying $4, $5,
and $6 a week. I think this work preferable for women to most mechanical
employments, and, no doubt, in a few years many will be so occupied. I
was told by a gilder that women are employed, because they can be had
cheaper than men, seldom, if ever, receiving over $5 a week, of ten
hours a day; and they have no knowledge of the business, except the one
department in which they work. The frames are sold cheaply for
photographs. There are no extensive gilders in the South or West, except
one in Cincinnati, and one in Chicago. In the mirror and picture frame
departments, there are now a great many stores that cut up the business
of the large establishments, and the times are hard--so the business is
dull. Not more than forty women in New York city are employed in gilding
frames, and twenty of them are at G.'s. A gilder in New Hampshire
writes: "It depends upon how much painted work there is in the same room
whether the occupation is unhealthy. As far as my observation goes,
women are as good workers at this business as men." One in Massachusetts
writes: "My wife sometimes does my gilding, which is no harder than
sewing. The carver's daughter in Essex, near here, did all his gilding
for ten years." Gilders in Boston write: "We employ a girl to burnish,
and pay from $3 to $5 per week, ten hours a day. Men get from $9 to $12.
Fall and spring are the most busy seasons. Most of the cities northeast
of Baltimore are good for this work. Board, $2 to $3."
=484. Globe Makers.= H., manufacturer of school apparatus in
Connecticut, writes: "From four to six women are employed by us, in the
construction of globes and other articles. Some are paid by the piece,
and some by the week, and earn from $3 to $5 per week, ten hours a day.
Women receive less than one half the wages of men. They do not perform
the same kind of labor. Women are employed at the lighter work,
requiring less strength, but an even amount of skill. The abundance of
the supply of labor prevents the increase of wages. Learners are paid,
and it requires but a few weeks to succeed. A nicety of eye and
readiness of hand are necessary for a worker. The prospect of employment
is good, but limited. The winter is best for the work, but hands are
occupied at all seasons. The employment is pleasant, and as well paid as
any in this vicinity. Women are employed in all parts of the work
suitable for them. The work is best adapted to the Eastern States. All
our employés are Americans, and live at home. Board here, $2 a week."
=485. Hobby Horse Finishers.= In summer time, Mr. ---- has children's
carriages trimmed by women. They are paid by the piece, and earn from $3
to $4 a week. At B.'s they are employed all the year. The horses and
carriages could be painted by women, and the manes, tails, saddles and
bridles could be put on by them. At C.'s, one lady is employed for
trimming children's carriages--$5 a week--ten hours a day. She sews by
machine. C.'s busy season for children's carriages, is from February to
November, and he employs his hands the rest of the time at hobby horses.
He says there is one factory in Columbus, two in Chicago. He thinks
there are good openings (1860) in Richmond and Petersburg, Va., for they
sell many there. He thinks wrong must succumb to right--that there is no
justice in withholding from women their proper compensation for labor,
and the time will come when the prejudice will be done away that now
exists on that subject.
=486. Horse Coverings.= I was told, at a store in Philadelphia, they pay
twenty-five cents a piece for ordinary blankets and linens, and a woman
can make from three to four a day. One, on which was considerable chain
stitching, the storekeeper paid $2 for making, and he thought a woman
could make one in a day. A saddle and harness maker, New York, told me
the prospect of getting such work is good. The wives of his workmen make
his blankets, and can earn from $1 to $1.50 a day, as he pays
thirty-seven cents a blanket. Another one told me his girls earn from $4
to $6 a week at such work; and another rated the payments still higher,
from $1.25 to $1.50 a day. At a large store on Broadway, I was told all
the work is given to one woman, who employs other women to help her. Her
workers can earn $4 a week, if industrious. They make horse linens and
blankets, and rosettes for head ornaments. Netting for horses is made by
hand, in a large establishment near New York. L. L. & Co. pay for the
coarsest blankets twenty cents apiece, and a woman can make two a day.
For some they pay as high as from $4 to $5. A very swift sewer could
make one such in little over two days--consequently her day's wages
would be $2. So the prices vary according to style. The chain stitch, so
much used for ornamenting, is done by hand, because in that way the
edges of the cloth can be more neatly and securely turned under. L. L. &
Co. employ ladies, who in their turn employ others. The coarse heavy
blankets are generally lined, and the work is mostly done by Irish
women. They are most busy on blankets from June to January, and on linen
from February 1st to May 1st. Linen covers are used on horses in
stables, as flies annoy horses much where they are standing quiet. Out
of doors, nets answer, because they are kept in motion by the horse.
When busy, L. & L. employ about one hundred girls. The business is
growing. The blankets are mostly used in the country. The manufacture of
them is confined principally to New York and Boston. Those in the cities
are different in style; indeed, each city has its own style. Many are
made in Chicago. The rosettes pay very well, but it requires a long time
to become expert. One lady they employ earns occasionally $50 a week.
Tassels are paid for by the piece, and girls can earn from $2 to $4.
Tassel making requires some time to learn perfectly. Cloth goods are
confined to seasons, and consequently occupations in which they are
involved are confined to seasons. Styles of trimming are apt to change.
A man who makes blankets for a large wholesale house, employs from one
hundred to two hundred women. They earn from $3 to $7 a week. The
stitching is done by machine, but the ornamental part by hand. Men do
all the cutting. He has paid as high as $100 for one pattern of blankets
and ornaments. There are no blankets made in the South or West, except
here and there a saddler's wife will make a few. In Williamsburg, I saw
a number of women in the basement of the employer's residence. They
looked sad, and the rooms were small, damp, and filthy. The employer
told me most of his stitching is done by machine. Anybody that can sew
tolerably well, and has strength, can do it. Women seldom, if ever, cut
them out; but I think they could. A manufacturer in Brooklyn writes: "We
employ women for making horse clothing, who are paid by the piece, and
earn from seventy-five cents to $1 per day. Spring and fall are the best
seasons for work. We have no difficulty in procuring hands."
=487. House Painters.= The tools of a painter cost but little. Women
might be employed in glazing, and in painting the inside work of houses.
Their ingenuity and taste might be successfully exercised in
embellishing walls and ornamenting doors. The style for doors, called
graining, would be particularly appropriate. The business could be best
carried on by men and women in partnership, as the outdoor work is most
suitable for men. An apprenticeship should be served of two or three
years. The work would pay well. Most of it is done in spring. A woman
would need to make some change in her style of dress. The Bloomer would
probably be best--at any rate, hoops should be laid aside. The vocation
presents a very good opening to women, who could best engage in it, at
first, in towns and villages.
=488. Japanners.= Japanning is one of the few arts that had its origin
in a heathen country. It is now practised in all civilized countries.
Many metal articles are japanned--as tea trays, candlesticks, &c. Wood
is also japanned. In a late report of one of the schools of design in
England, we observed on the list of female students the names of two
japanners. Care, and ability to stand, are all that are required for
success, to those doing the plain painting; but some taste is required
for ornamental japanning. There is a good prospect for employment, as
the tin trade has been increasing rapidly in the last two years, and is
likely to, as our country grows older, and depends less on other
countries for a supply. California has created quite a demand in the
last few years, and it is supplied mostly from New York. M., in New
York, told us he and his partner employ some women to japan. They pay
from $3 to $4 a week. They have one woman to do the ornamental work,
painting flowers and gilding. To ornamental painters they pay from $10
to $15 a week. They had a man to whom they often paid $15 a week. Most
of the men that have been employed in ornamental japanning have gone to
painting clocks, which pays better. They sometimes find it difficult to
get hands--so if some women could take it up, they would be likely to
find employment. The painters design as they paint, not using a pattern.
Japanning of the heavy kind could not be done by women. The pieces are
too heavy to lift. B., an ornamental japanner, used to employ women to
put on the pearl scraps, but now employs boys, because he can get them
cheaper and take them as apprentices. He can send them on errands and
make use of them in that way. He pays an apprentice $1.50 a week for one
year, then increases at the rate of fifty cents a week the next year,
and so on. B. thinks no women are employed at it. Women are employed at
such work in Paris. Japanning, he thinks, is not unhealthy, although the
ovens into which japanners must pass are often heated to 260°. The
spirits of tar used in japanning renders it healthy, and consumptives go
frequently into japanning furnaces, feeling that they are benefited by
it. At a firm of japanners, the boy told me they employ an artist to
come and paint for them. They once had a lady that painted landscapes
and flowers on piano boards in oils. They were not baked in a furnace
afterward, but the oil permitted to dry, as with a painting on canvas.
S. used to employ women in making pearl piecework, but it is not much
used now. For painting clocks, not more than six cents a piece is paid
for many. Men are so rapid that they can make money, but women could not
earn more than $2.50 a week. Some men earn $25 a week, and formerly even
$35, at painting the finer clocks; but there are now so many in the
business that wages have fallen, though the business is increasing. At a
tin manufactory in Williamsburg, I saw two girls employed in tying up
goods, and seven girls employed in putting the first coat of paint on
tin ware--grounding, it is called. They are paid from $1.25 up. One
woman they have earns $6 a week. She is an English woman, and has been
at the business nearly all her life. She is quick and skilful. A boy who
paints flowers on tin ware, after the first coat is put on by the girls,
gets $1 a day for his work. Japanning is done in England by women. Many
women are employed through the country, in the Eastern States, in making
tin canisters, &c., and some in japanning; but japanners carry their
work into ovens, which he thought would be too hard for women. Yet he
thinks doing so is not unhealthy. If the employment is unhealthy, it
arises from the evaporation of the turpentine in the paint. The
unhealthiness of the common painter's business arises from the
turpentine, in evaporating, carrying off with it white lead, but no
white lead is employed on the tin ware. Girls are paid by the week. Men,
for graining, a style resembling the graining of wood, and in fact being
the same except on a different material, received $2.50 per day. Male
labor is twice or three times as high in their establishment. Why women
are not better paid the man could not answer, but, like many other men
with whom I have talked, thought it unjust they were not paid at the
same rate as men. Their girls are employed all the year. They work ten
hours a day. They were mostly Americans, and miserably dressed. The work
soils their clothes greatly. They wore old skirts over their dresses to
work in. I think some men and boys work in the same room with them. The
fine work could be well done by them, if they would take time to learn
it efficiently, for it requires taste, ingenuity, and delicacy of touch.
At an ornamental japanner's, I was told it requires three or four years
to learn the business well. A good workman earns from $12 to $18 a week.
It is piecework.
=489. Knitters.= The knitting done by machinery is not so soft, so warm,
or so durable as that done by hand. It is almost impossible to obtain
ladies' hand-knit hose in cities. Gentlemen's are sometimes made by the
Shakers, and bring a very high price. We have no doubt but some old
ladies might even now find it profitable to knit to order, or supply
some store where their goods would be brought forward and disposed of to
those who can appreciate the difference between machine and hand
knitting. The Germans are famous knitters. "The peasant women of the
Channel Islands, Jersey, Guernsey, &c., knit a great deal. They are
seldom, if ever, without the materials for this occupation. On the way
to and from market, and at other times, knitting forms their almost
constant employment." A knitting machine has been invented in Seneca, N.
Y., that is said to knit a perfect stocking in less than five minutes.
Aiken's knitting machines are very popular. We have thought ladies would
do well to try them, and devote themselves to making up hosiery. We
doubt not but it would pay very well. The cloth is knit in a straight
piece, and another lady cuts it into shape and sews into the articles
wanted. A machine has been invented by Mr. Aiken, also, for toeing and
heeling socks. A manufacturer of knit goods writes: "We employ about
twenty hands, one half of whom are girls. Their wages are from $3 to $5
per week, except when working by the piece. Those who run the knitting
machines are paid by the piece, and earn from 75 cents to $1 per day.
Males receive from $1 to $1.75 per day. The work done by them is
generally harder, and such as females could not well do. To effectually
superintend the knitting business would require at least five years. The
part performed by females can be learned in six months. They are paid
while learning, from $2.75 to $3 per week. The business is overdone at
present; although there is always a demand in our section of country for
girls. They work regularly throughout the year, twelve hours in summer,
ten in winter. It would be better for all parties to run their mills
only ten hours per day, and thus tend to keep down the production, and
so keep up the prices to a fair profit. Those tending sewing machines
are generally married, or widows with children, and in general support
their families. Their machines are repaired by a foreman, but with a
little practice they can learn to do it themselves. In other branches
generally pursued by girls, they earn sufficient to dress well, but
seldom accumulate. A location is preferred in some thickly settled
place, on account of getting sewing done by hand, as all the goods are
finished off by hand. After working twelve hours a day, they will be
necessarily rather too much fatigued to go through any mental processes
otherwise than reading a novel. If all the mills of all descriptions
would work ten hours only, and establish evening schools, and request
all to attend, it would greatly elevate them in the social scale. But
selfishness rules, and where one manufacturer would agree to this
arrangement, two would not. Board, $1.50 per week, including washing." A
hose manufacturer in Holderness writes: "We employ about sixty females
in the mill. Work is given out to three hundred. Almost all are
American. Their wages are from $3 to $6 per week. The wages in the
knitting department are not much less for women than men. Women learn
the knitting so as to earn good pay in three months. Women are paid $2
per week for the first four weeks; after that, by the piece. A learner
should be steady and quick with her fingers. The employment is healthy,
as the knitters sit only about half the time. We run all the year eleven
hours a day. There is not female help enough. We are trying women where
men have been employed. I think women are in some respects superior
workers to men." Manufacturers of seamless hosiery, in Connecticut,
write they "pay from $3 to $5 per week, eleven hours a day--that it
requires from six to eight weeks to learn--that their hands have access
to libraries; and board is for men $3, for women $2." At Cohoes, N. Y.,
is a manufactory of shirts, drawers, &c. I have a letter from the
company saying: "We employ two hundred and fifty women, and pay from 40
cents to $1 per day. Some are paid by the piece, and some by the week.
Men receive from 75 cents to $2.50 per day, of twelve hours. The reason
why they obtain better wages is that they do work which women cannot do.
(Query: Do not the women perform work that men cannot do?) Men are
continually learning. Women can learn to perform certain work in a few
days. The best qualifications are soundness of mind and body, activity,
steadiness, quick perception, and a desire to make money. The business
is increasing yearly. Occasionally, in the winter, the mills stop for a
month. There is at present (October, 1860) a surplus of labor. Board,
$1.75 to $2." At L.'s knitting factory, in Brooklyn, the foreman told me
there are six machines in operation, each of which cost between $5,000
and $6,000. The articles made by them are softer than any knitting done
by machine I have seen; but it may be owing to the quality of the wool:
I cannot say. Those working at machines stand, the others sit. The
machine operators receive from $1.50 to $3.50: those in the finishing
room are paid by the piece, and earn from $2 to $5. A foreman
superintends the work and puts the machinery in order. A woman of good
abilities can learn in three months, if the factory is in a position to
put her forward. From May to December is the best time for work. Double
price is paid the hands for night work in busy times. They prefer
American girls, because they are neater. A manufacturer of factory
supplies, in Massachusetts, writes: "We employ thirty women in knitting
loom harnesses. The work is not more unhealthy than any employment that
requires one to sit all the time. They are paid by the piece. The
employment is sure so long as cotton manufacturing is good. The work is
equally good all seasons. Board, $1.62 to $2.25 per week." The secretary
of the Waterbury Knitting Company writes: "We employ one hundred hands,
at from 50 cents to $1 per day, working twelve hours in summer, ten in
winter. Women are paid as well or better than men of the same age;
working by the piece, they are paid the same. The women are not thrown
out of work at any season. Women are inferior in mechanical genius. We
are obliged to keep a man to every fifteen women to overlook them. A
woman will run a knitting machine for seven years, and never be able to
straighten a needle, or knit the cloth slack or tight. A boy or man will
learn to oversee a whole room in half that time. Women cannot be made to
think or act for themselves in the least thing, or in any case to rely
on their own judgment. This is equally true of the stupid Irish, German,
and English, and of the more acute Yankee. Women are superior perhaps in
good looks." S., of Enfield, N. H., has his daughter write: "I use three
of Aikens's knitting machines, and other machinery for making yarn. The
wool is first made into yarn and then knit into webbing, and marked for
heeling and toeing. It is then divided into dozens, and distributed
around the country to be heeled and toed, in which branch we employ
usually five hundred American women. We pay $1 a dozen for heeling and
toeing; for tending the machine, $2 per week, of eleven hours a day.
Women are paid less, because they are not usually as strong as men, and
therefore cannot do the same work, or, if the same kind, not so great an
amount in a limited time. Men can be employed by paying them what they
require, and as they are considered, or rather seem to consider
themselves the 'lords of creation,' they demand higher wages than women.
In four weeks the females can perform their part without trouble.
Learners receive their board. The prospect is good for the same number
employed as at present. The summer season is the best for work. If at
any time there is a want of work, it is in January and February."
=490. Lace Bleachers.= Mrs. L. spent five years learning the business in
Paris. A girl that spent two years learning with her, is now doing well
in the business in St. Louis. She prefers to take learners a week on
trial. She charges from $1 to $1.50 a pair for curtains. The French are
the most successful in that line. She often has thirty or more pair from
a hotel and other large houses. One can make a good living at it. L.
says the work is unhealthy, particularly while the vapor of the
chemicals is warm. The curtains are not wrung out, but the water pressed
out with the hands. The dirt, of course, is first washed out. It
requires strength to handle the goods. Curtains are put on frames to
dry, and women, he says, are not strong enough. It requires strength to
get the extra starch out, as it is done by squeezing. It is surprising
how many objections, as regards health and physical strength required,
can be presented by selfish men, who do not wish women to engage in
their occupations. None but those who have had occasion to test the
matter would believe it possible that the majority of men are so selfish
and unjust in this respect. Another man told me he does all the washing
and drying himself, because he is responsible for the goods, and is not
willing to trust them to strangers. He charges $1 a pair, except for a
very large size. Different kinds of laces require different methods of
washing and ironing.
=491. Lacquerers.= Lacquering is warm work, and in summer is done in
rooms the temperature of which is over 200°. M. thought women could be
employed in burnishing, lacquering, polishing, and bronzing. Girls were
at one time employed in lacquering gas fixtures on William street, New
York; but they were dismissed, because they did not prove steady and
efficient workers. The process previous to lacquering, called dipping,
is dirty work. It requires but a short time to learn to lacquer. F. told
me that in France women do all the fine lacquering, and they do it much
better than men can. They take it home with them to do; and the same
plan could be followed in this country, and probably will be before
long. The finest lacquering, such as ormolu clocks, &c., is done with
gold dust. The varnish must be put on evenly. It requires care and
delicacy of touch. Most of the gas fixtures sold as brass are merely
zinc gilded, and then lacquered--the bronzed part the same metal,
bronzed. Zinc can be bought at six cents a pound--brass is thirty cents
a pound. Mathematical instruments, daguerreotype cases, and gas fixtures
are lacquered. A man earns from $8 to $10 a week, working ten hours a
day. Lacquering, I was told, is not unhealthy, and a person can sit two
or three feet from the fire while at work. A firm in New York,
manufacturing gas fixtures, wrote to us as follows: "Lacquering is a
suitable occupation for women; but we do not employ them, because men
are considered more reliable as to regularity of hours, and are more
easily managed. Women can be made equally good lacquerers with the men;
but when employed by us, some years since, we found, with few
exceptions, that they produced inferior work, owing, as we think, to
want of application. Women are employed in similar establishments to
ours in England and, we learn, in Boston. The employment is not
unhealthy. They are paid by the week in England. It requires from three
to five years to learn the business. Steady application and a good eye
for colors will make a good lacquerer."
=492. Life Preservers.= R. employs two women to stitch his life
preservers with a sewing machine, and pays the usual price of
operatives. None are made South or West. (Would not New Orleans offer an
opening?)
=493. Lucifer Matches.= This is a business that has been largely entered
into in New York. The making and selling of matches have furnished
employment for hundreds and thousands of boys and girls in all our large
cities. The making of matches is a dangerous employment. Its unhealthy
tendency (owing to the use of sulphur), and the long period of twelve,
and even fourteen hours' confinement, no doubt serve to account for the
sad and woe-begone faces of the poor little operators. At a match
factory where I stopped, girls are paid three cents a gross for cutting
matches and filling boxes. Some can do as many as forty gross a day; but
very few can. It is best for girls to commence early in life, and most
do so. Some girls earn as much as $5 to $6 per week, if we may believe
the proprietor's statement. Girls are paid for filling the frames in
which they are to be dipped, sixty-two cents 100 frames, each frame
containing 1,500 double, or 3,000 single matches. The factory is open
from seven in the morning to ten at night. The business for women and
girls is not crowded. Most learners become discouraged and leave it,
because it is so long before they can become expert enough to earn fair
wages. It is not as healthy, he says, as some occupations. I should
think not, judging from his sallow face, and the pale, spiritless faces
of all I have seen in the match factories. He buys bundles of sticks,
ready to cut for matches, of those who make it a business to prepare
them. They are cut by hand. He pays twenty-five cents a bunch, and a man
can cut a bunch in five minutes. They never stop work, except in
December and January. A brisk hand can earn from $5 to $7 a week. They
make from twenty to forty different kinds of matches, to suit all
climates. At the store of this manufacturer, the bookkeeper told me
that, if a person has a tooth extracted, the phosphorus will be absorbed
by the jaw bone and cause it to decay, if the individual works in the
factory before the gum is entirely well. A lady told me she knows a girl
that earns $6 a week in a match factory. In H.'s factory, I saw small
girls and boys putting matches in the frames to be dipped. They are paid
sixty cents 100 frames, containing 1,500 double matches. They can seldom
fill more than 85 frames a day. They commence work at 6½ in winter, and
work until 8; in summer, they commence at 6, and work until 7½. They are
not obliged to work all the time, as they are paid by the piece; but
with the exception of an hour at noon, which all have the privilege of
taking, they no doubt work the full time. They were poor, dirty-looking
children. In the room where the boxes were filled, large girls worked.
Most match makers are Germans and Irish. A manufacturer told me that he
now employs boys only--that girls he found so wild he could not manage
them. He says some of his girls used to earn $5 a week. He thinks none
but strong, healthy persons should work at the business, as the fumes of
sulphur are injurious. A manufacturer in Vermont writes: "Women are
employed to pack matches. They are paid by the thousand, and their wages
amount to fifty cents per day, of ten hours, after they get accustomed
to it. Women's work in this department is lighter than men's--so will
not yield as good wages. A learner will gain the trade in about six
months. An increase of this business is not flattering. No difference in
the seasons for work. Women are more nimble in the use of their fingers,
and consequently succeed better in this kind of work."
=494. Mat Makers.= Door mats are made of sea grass, corn husks, worsted,
manilla, hemp, and cocoa-nut fibre. At the largest manufactory in the
United States, I saw the process of making several kinds. No girls or
women were employed. The superintendent told us it was too heavy work
for women. In one establishment in Philadelphia, girls are employed as
tenders, which is merely picking the substance to be woven--jute, hemp,
or wool--into bunches of the right thickness, and handing to the weaver.
Some of their mat weavers earn $14 a week--boys, from $1.50 to $3. Mats
are sometimes made by women of osier, rushes, and straw.
=495. Manufacturers of Musical Instruments.= The manufacture of
different musical instruments is engaged in as so many distinct branches
of business. Musical instruments are usually classed as follows: 1. Wind
instruments, of wood or metal. 2. Stringed instruments. 3. Keyed
instruments. 4. Instruments of percussion. 5. Automatic instruments. 6.
Miscellaneous articles in connection with musical instruments. On wind
instruments made of wood and ornamented with metals, as flutes,
clarionets, &c., women might be employed to polish the metal. Those that
are all metal, as horns, trumpets, &c., are polished in making, and
could not well be divided into a separate branch of work. Of stringed
instruments, the ornamental part, as painting, inlaying of pearl, &c.,
would be very pretty work for women of taste. The smaller strings could
be covered by women. Of keyed instruments, some of the smaller and finer
work would be very suitable for women. In instruments of percussion, the
drum and tambourine are probably the only instruments presenting a field
for woman's work. Of automatic instruments, mechanical organs are the
only ones, I think, at which women do work. I cannot learn that women
are employed in making musical boxes, which are imported from
Switzerland, Germany, and France. Women are employed to some extent, in
other countries, in the manufacture of musical instruments. Z. thinks
the reason women are not employed in the manufacture of musical
instruments in this country is, that they do not understand the
business.--1. _Wind Instruments._ Women might polish the metal on
flutes, and even paint the woodwork. I was told by a manufacturer in New
York, whose factory is in Connecticut, that he once employed women in
that way, but they did not succeed, because they did not try.--2.
_Stringed Instruments._ I called on L., engaged in the manufacture of
harps. There are but two harp manufacturers in the United States. Ladies
might do the gilding and ornamental painting on harps. Sizing is put on,
and then gold leaf laid on, and smoothed down with a small brush. The
varnishing could be very well done by women. The same kind of work is
executed on guitar frames, of which a number are made in the United
States. The painting is done as on enamelled furniture. L. employs an
Englishman to do the gilding and ornamental painting. The other
manufacturer, B., thinks there is no part of the work in making harps
that could be done by a lady. The ornamental part is done by the
varnisher, and varnishing requires much strength. It requires a regular
apprenticeship, and some artistic taste. So few harps are made in this
country, that it would not pay a woman to learn. He was evidently
opposed to women having anything to do with the business.--3. _Keyed
Instruments. Accordions._ In making accordions women could put on the
keys and kid, and do so in Germany. Accordions are nearly all imported,
because they can be made more cheaply in Europe than in this country.
L., Philadelphia, says he is in partnership with his brother in Germany,
who has musical instruments made there, and employs a number of women
and girls.--_Melodeons._ C., New York, manufacturer, says he does not
know of any women being employed in the making of melodeons; but much of
the work, I am sure, could be done by women. Cutting the keys,
polishing, gluing them on the board, and fastening the hammers on, are
done by hand, and the work is as suitable for women as men. Men receive
for such work, $2 a day. Women properly trained, and with a good ear for
music could also tune the instruments. Men who do so, earn about $3 a
day. A manufacturer of melodeons writes: "We do not employ women, but
think larger firms might."--_Organs._ I was told by a manufacturer that
in Germany some women assist their husbands in making the action, but
there is lighter work and more of it in piano actions. J., another organ
builder, told me that in England, in some organ factories, women are
employed to gild the pipes. In making the organs turned by a crank, used
in some churches in England, women, he said, are employed in putting the
pins in the cylinders. They are made on the same principle as the music
box. J. seldom makes more than one of these organs in a year, and I
think he is the only one in the United States that does make them. Mrs.
Dall says "there are women, who strain silk in fluting, across the
old-fashioned workbag, or parlor organ front."
=Pianos.= In England, the men engaged in making piano actions used to do
much of the work at home, and their wives and daughters would assist
them. In the United States, each branch in the making of pianos is now
done separately, except in very large establishments, and consequently
most of the work is done at home by the workmen. At a factory in New
York, an apprentice, nearly out of his time, told me that an individual
to learn the business is bound, and must remain until of age. Otherwise
he could not get a certificate, and is not likely to find employment
without one. An apprentice receives $3 a week the first year, $4 the
second year, and more afterward if he is bright and quick to learn. A
journeyman receives from $10 to $12 a week for his work. At W.'s piano
manufactory, New York, we were kindly permitted to pass through and see
the entire process of making. Among other parts that I thought could be
done by women, were those of varnishing and polishing. This work forms a
separate branch of itself, and requires an apprenticeship of three or
four years. It looked to be very simple. The pianos are first rubbed
with pumice stone, to render them smooth and susceptible of a polish,
then with rotten stone. Rubbing with pumice stone all day might be too
laborious, except for a very strong woman; but the other process is
feasible for any woman of moderate health. Indeed, the finest polish
could be better given by women than men, because it is done by the naked
hand, and the softer the hand the better. The ornamenting of the
sounding boards could be done by women that know anything of painting,
and also the gilding on the inside top and outside front. I asked an old
Frenchman, doing that kind of work, how long it would require to learn.
He said he had been at it fifty years, and had not learned it perfectly
yet. It is pretty work, and very suitable for a woman of taste. The
delicacy of woman's touch, with some knowledge of drawing and painting,
would enable her to succeed. Covering wire, and putting it in, is
another branch that might be done by women. Bleaching ivory for the
keys, cutting them, and gluing them on, are also within woman's range.
Cutting leather and buckskin, and gluing it on the hammers, are very
light and simple work. Another branch suitable for women is regulating
the tone of pianos. Men, said W., would oppose women working at the
piano business in large establishments, but a man would not be likely to
suffer inconvenience from employing women in his own house to do the
part he carries on. If he were independent of his business it would be
better. At ----'s, New York, a manufacturer of pianoforte actions, I saw
two girls at work. It is very nice, clean work. Part of the time they
stand, and the remainder they sit. One is paid $3 a week, and the other
less. The young man who showed us through the factory, said much of the
work in making pianoforte action that is now done by men could be done
by women. D----'s girls looked to be Americans. They have work all the
year. It mostly consists in covering hammers. A manufacturer of
pianofortes writes: "Our men are paid both by the piece and by the week,
according to the departments in which they are engaged. The time of
learning is from five to seven years for men. Apprentices (boys) are
paid from 25 cents to $1 per day, beginning with the first amount, and
increasing from year to year. In some departments, physical strength is
required, in others, aptness and ready tact--in others, a cultivated
musical ear. The prospect for future employment is very fine in all
branches for men--in some, equally good for women. The majority of
workmen are below mediocrity, as compared with most all others in
manufacturing." A manufacturer in Meredith, N. H., writes: "We once
employed a lady in our key and action department. She was the wife of
one of our workmen. She earned as much as her husband, and in every
respect did her work as well. She learned her trade in half the time it
took her husband to learn the same. Theirs was jobwork; the two earned
about $3 per day. She did her housework besides. I think there might be
many ladies employed in our business, to the advantage of all concerned.
We expect to test the matter further by employing some in our varnish
rooms soon."
=Seraphines.= A manufacturer writes: "I think women might be employed to
advantage in some parts of the work, and in any part of it, if they
could adopt a different style of dress, something like the Bloomer. The
long dress with hoops, as now worn, must be an insurmountable barrier
against their entering many employments. It is injurious to health, and
prevents a proper development of form."
=496. Musical String Makers.= The manufacture of strings for musical
instruments is carried on as a separate branch. A German violin maker
told me that women are employed in Germany in winding wire for guitar
strings. I find they are also in a factory in Connecticut, and the
manufacturer said they could earn as high as $9 a week. It is rather
severe on the fingers, but that can be avoided to some extent by wearing
a glove finger. In New York, it is mostly done by Germans and French,
who have taken the trade from Americans. The preparing of catgut from
the intestines of sheep and goats, and making it into strings, is
carried on mostly in Germany, and some women are employed at that. Most
metal strings are of steel, and covered with fine wire of other metals.
Mrs. Z., whose husband, when living, manufactured covered strings for
musical instruments, told me, she and her daughters had often assisted
in covering guitar strings and the lighter piano strings. She thinks a
person of good abilities could learn it in from two to four weeks, with
an attentive instructor. She usually rested against a bench while
employed. A good worker will earn from $3 to $5 per week. She has never
heard of any but English and German women being engaged in it. In some
of the up town shops the machinery is moved by steam, but it does not
answer so well, because it is not so easily slackened or checked. Harp
strings and the larger piano strings cannot be made by women, because of
the strength and firmness required.
=497. Netters.= Netting is now generally done by machinery. Seines are
mostly made in that way. When by hand, it is done by old people, who
receive a very inadequate compensation for their labor. The nets so much
used for horses are mostly made in a large factory near the city of New
York. In England, woollen netting is used by some gardeners for the
protection of the bloom of fruit trees from frost. They are also used to
prevent birds destroying currants, cherries, raspberries, and other
small fruit. The making of purses of different kinds, and of hammocks,
have employed a small number of people. Net and seine manufacturers in
Gloucester write me: "We employ one hundred women who work at their
homes, and are paid by the piece. It requires a year to learn. From
October to June are the best seasons for our trade. A few that we employ
to work by the week spend ten hours a day at it. The comfort of the
occupation is good, but the pay poor. We think women better company than
men. Health and strength are the best qualifications for our work." A
net and twine company in Boston write: "We employ women for converting
twine into netting. It is mostly job work, and they have cash for what
they earn. The comparative prices of men and women are the same as those
of factories in general. It requires about as long to learn as it takes
a woman to learn to knit stockings. The business is good as long as the
sea furnishes fish and mankind eat them. The employment of women in the
work is a providential necessity. Nearly all ours are American. Women
are quicker in their work--men stronger. Our women have the leisure that
belongs to nearly all manual occupations."
=498. Oakum Pickers.= Perhaps some one reading this book may not know
what oakum is. It is old rope, pulled to pieces until it is soft and
pliable, like the original material, and used for the purpose of corking
vessels. Ten years ago, the picking was done by hand, and many women
employed. Now, this work is mostly done by machinery in this country,
and very few women are employed. In some factories, women are employed
in teazing, that is, untwisting the pieces of rope that are not pulled
to pieces by passing through the machinery the first time. They are paid
so much per hundred pounds, and do not earn more than $2 a week. It is
dirty, disagreeable work. A firm in Maine write: "We have seen females,
both young and old, at work in oakum mills in the State of New Jersey.
In England (we believe) all oakum is made in their almshouses,
consequently a part by females. The business is healthy. We use many
boys that do work which might be done by females; but we prefer the
boys."
=499. Paper Hangers.= An English lady, who has spent much time in
various parts of Europe, told me she had known of women being engaged in
paper hanging in small towns. I believe it is customary, when papering a
room, to have one person put the paste on, and another put it up. We are
confident women could do the first-mentioned part of the work.
=500. Polishers.= Women are employed in France in polishing furniture.
They are mostly the wives of cabinet makers. It requires art to do it
that some can never learn. A person must be able to put the gum shellac
on evenly. A woman in London earned a very good living by applying
French polish to the furniture of cabinet makers. A French woman that
polished furniture in Paris, told me that the work is hard on the
fingers, and one could not learn it in less than a year. A piano
manufacturer told me that women could be profitably employed in
polishing pianos. It is better learned by women than men, he thought. It
is tedious, however, and requires patience. I have been told that the
finest polish is imparted to furniture by the naked hand, and the softer
and finer the hand the better. For that reason, women are employed in
France to polish piano cases with the palms of their hands, and, when
not employed, wear kid gloves to keep their hands soft and smooth.
=501. Pure Finders.= The finders of dog pure constitute a small class in
this country; but Mr. Mayhew thinks in the city of London there are
between two hundred and three hundred constantly employed. It is used
for dressing leather and kid, and sold at from sixteen to twenty cents a
bucketful. In our country, it is probably carried on with bone grubbing
and rag gathering.
=502. Rag Cutters.= I find nearly all rag cutters are Irish, and they
are mostly old women or young girls. The girls usually earn about 75
cents or $1 a week. I called at a rag dealer's, and was told by a woman
that one cent a pound is paid for cutting the seams off, taking the
linings out, and removing the buttons. A woman can earn, she says, from
$2 to $2.50 a week. It is not unhealthy. They grow fat on it. Theirs are
mostly old women, and all are Irish. For assorting they are paid by the
week, and receive $2.75. They work from seven to five in winter; in
summer, ten hours. The keeper of the wareroom sells his rags for making
paper, and sends many to Europe. The women work all the year. No other
kind of work could be done by women in that business, as the only other
is packing in bales, and that, of course, must be done by men. The
warerooms close at six; so the women have the evenings for themselves.
P., a rag dealer, says he buys and sells according to the quality of the
rags. It is customary to pay by the week for sorting rags. Some get $2,
and some $2.50. Cutting the seams off is paid for by the pound. The odor
was extremely offensive (it was a damp day); but the man said it was not
unhealthy, unless the rags are worked with in a close room; then the
dust is apt to affect the eyes. Occasionally the small pox is taken from
rags. I called at a rag dealer's, and was told by a filthy, squalid,
barefooted girl at work, that for cutting up rags a penny a pound is
paid. She was assorting. For that work, hands are paid twenty-five cents
a day, and their board. It is very dirty work. The dust and sand must
affect the eyes and lungs. Some men can cut as many as thirty-five
pounds a day. Men are paid twice as much as women for assorting. I
inquired why. I was told by a young junk dealer, standing by, that they
could pick twice as much in the same time, the truth of which the reader
can decide as well as I. Some men earn at it, he said, $6 a week. A
woman, who seemed to have some interest in the place, remarked the girls
have work all the year. Called at the door of a large wareroom, where I
saw men assorting waste paper to be sold for the purpose of being made
into new paper.
=503. Rag Gatherers.= The chiffoniers or rag gatherers of Paris are said
to number about 6,000; those of London about 800 or 1,000. The
chiffonier in Paris can collect only from eight in the evening until
early next morning, as the streets are all swept before six o'clock in
the morning, as after that time until eight in the evening the citizens
are passing. A few in Paris have realized fortunes; but we suspect the
most, in all countries, barely gain a subsistence. They all lead a hard
and gloomy life. In the United States, most of the rags collected are
converted into paper. Some are sold at shoddy manufactories, and those
unfit for either shoddy or paper are spread over corn land, or used as a
fertilizer for hops. One of the most handsome buildings on Broadway is
said to be owned by a man that commenced life in the petty business of a
rag collector. So much for economy and industry! Most of the rag pickers
in New York live in the Five Points, and near the Central Park. Scarcely
any person that has seen the old women rag pickers of New York in rain
and snow, cold and driving winds, partially clad, can ever deny that a
woman is capable of very hard and degrading labor, when driven to it by
want. Rag picking and rag assorting are distinct branches. Rag pickers
make the most, and are chiefly Germans. The number of rag gatherers in
New York is very great, and the majority of them are women. I never
observe the face of an American or French woman. Rag gatherers have each
their own province, and none of the rest dare intrude. The majority do
not confine themselves to picking up rags only, but bones and bits of
metal and glass. Some even carry a basket in which they gather waste
vegetables or putrid meat, or the trimmings of uncooked meat, which they
feed on themselves, or give to a pet pig, or trade with some neighbor
better off that has a cow. When the rag collectors reach their homes,
they assort the articles they have collected. They separate the rags
into clean and dirty (the last they wash), into linen and woollen, and
the paper into clean and dirty, white and colored. The life led by rag
gatherers is very laborious, as they must spend all the hours of
daylight on their feet, walking many miles. Their earnings are so scanty
that they must be out in all kinds of weather. The enormous rent they
pay for wretched accommodations is a disgrace to the landlords. Many of
them sleep a dozen in a room, on the bare floor. By the most rigid
economy and unremitting industry, a few are enabled to lay by a small
sum for old age, or purchase a little cottage and a plot of ground, when
they change their filthy occupation for a more healthy and agreeable
one, that of raising vegetables for the market. If I had to make a
living on the streets of New York, I would prefer carrying a wheel
around to grind knives and scissors, or putting window-glass in, to
collecting rags, for the work of neither is so filthy. The children of
rag gatherers begin very early to follow the pursuit of their parents. I
saw some children one day picking rags, that told me they received two
cents a pound. They were at the dirt heaps where carts of dirt from town
had been emptied. They sometimes gather forty pounds each a day. They
cannot do so well in winter. I saw a rag collector who starts at five in
the morning, and is gathering rags until eight in the evening. She eats
nothing during the time. She was German. Her father and mother also
gather rags. Her father sells them at two cents a pound. She did not
know how many pounds she gathered, but said she got three large bags
full every day in good weather. I saw other collectors, who told me they
gather each from ten to thirty pounds a day. Some families succeed in
gathering from fifty cents to $1.50 worth a day, in good weather and
good seasons. "The prices paid for the staple articles of their trade,
purchased exclusively by middlemen, are: bones, 36 cents per bushel;
rags, whether linen or woollen, $1 per cwt.; paper, $1 per cwt.; and
these sell them again to the down-town customers, the rags at $2.50 to
$3.50; the paper at $1.25 to $1.50; with a proportionate advance on
bones, and all the articles in the junk business."
=504. Rope and Twine Makers.= Ropes are made of the fibres of various
plants, and particular kinds of grasses, and the fibres of the cocoanut
cover. Hair from the manes and tails of horses is also used. Hemp and
flax are most common in the United States. The simplest mode of making
rope is under long sheds. After the material is spun into yarn, it is
doubled or trebled, and twisted. Ropes for the rigging of vessels employ
a large number of men. The great variety and amount of cordage used make
it an extensive trade. Ropes are now manufactured in some places by
steam. A small number of women are employed in rope making. S. & M.,
Philadelphia, employ about fifty female hands. Some are engaged in
spinning, and a dexterous woman will keep from forty to fifty spindles
in constant motion, some at carding, some at balling. The last-named
operation is the only one in which the women can sit while at work. They
work ten hours, and earn from $1.50 (for young girls), to $5 a week (for
the experienced frame spinners). The last mentioned are mostly English,
Scotch, or Irish women, who have followed the trade from childhood. It
requires long practice to command the highest wages. A good steady hand
is much valued, and is not liable to be thrown out of work. Water power
is used with the machinery. W., New York, employs them in his
manufactory for spooling only. A manufacturer on Long Island writes: "I
pay my hands $1 a week, for the first four weeks; then $1.50 a week, for
the next four weeks; and for the four weeks following, $2 per week; and
so increase their wages till I allow them $3.50 per week. I employ
mostly boys and girls. I pay them the same, regardless of sex. They work
from ten to twelve hours, and are employed all the year. Board, $1.25 to
$1.50 per week. At eighteen, my boys learn a trade. I pay my hands well
and use them well. I do not receive children under twelve years of age.
I encourage them in going to school before and after they work in my
factory." There are only two factories of this kind in New York city
that employ women. The proprietor of the largest gave me the following
items: "I employ thirteen girls and women (mostly Irish) in spooling,
twisting, &c. Most are paid by the week. Women receive $3.50; girls,
from $1.15 to $3.50. The time of learning is one, two, or three weeks,
according to the kind of work, and the ability of the girl. The prospect
is poor for more learners. My girls work ten hours a day, and have
employment the year round. There are enough of hands in New York. Some
of the minor parts could be performed by women, that are not, but not
enough to give many employment. Cities are the best for selling the
article, country the best for making. Men do not perform the same kind
of work women do. Women are best suited to their branches. Boys could be
got to do the work of the girls for as low wages. Indeed, most boys work
for less in New York than girls." We think the last assertion a mistake
on the part of H. The agent of the Royal River Yarn and Twine Company
writes: "We consider our employment healthy. It proves so. Take, for
instance, a certain number, at random, of different ages, employed in
cotton mills, and compare with the same number, taken in the same way,
from farm neighborhoods, and you will find more sickness and death among
farmers' daughters." (This is rather a startling statement, but we are
not prepared to disprove it.) He adds: "The regularity in exercise,
taking meals, and resting, accounts, I think, for the steady employment
in cotton mills, and the like, being so conducive to health. I have been
engaged as a machinist, &c., about a cotton mill, for thirty-five years;
and, according to my observation, more girls improve their health,
taking ordinary care of themselves, than otherwise. Part of our hands
are paid by the week, and part by the piece. They have from $2 to $4.50
per week, new hands having only $2. It takes from three months to two
years to learn. Common sense and industrious habits are the only
qualifications needed. Spring and summer are the best seasons, but work
is furnished continuously the year round. Our girls go home now and then
to spend a few weeks, visit, fix their clothing, &c. To shorten their
time would be rather a disadvantage, as capital invested must pay, or no
encouragement would be given to invest more. Demand for hands is steady;
and if a surplus, it is on the neatest and lightest kind of work. Women
are neater, steadier, and more active than men. Our girls make the best
of housewives. Overseers, agents, and business men marry them, and we
may look around and see, in some that have worked in mills, the
brightest and best mothers of the land. The faculties of the mind are
quickened by the busy hum and movement of machinery. Board, $1.50,
respectable and comfortable. Parties not regarding that, would not have
respectable help."
=505. Sail and Awning Makers.= I think it would require considerable
strength and long practice to make sails, but not more than some
occupations in which women are engaged. L. sometimes employs women to
run the binding on awnings, paying 2 and 2½ cents a yard. He thinks no
women are employed in the United States in making sails. They worked at
tents during the Mexican war, but now only men are employed. S. knows
that, in France, women make the lightest kind of sails. In Russia, sails
are made by women. A sail maker in a large maritime city writes: "Some
women are employed in sail making in Massachusetts. It is a healthy
trade, and men spend three years learning it. A sail maker needs a tough
constitution and steady habits. Some parts of the work are suitable for
women. The best locations are on the lakes or in seaport towns." An
awning manufacturer told me he employs girls in summer, and pays from $4
to $5 a week, of ten hours a day. They work by hand, and bind and put on
fringe. T. employs some girls for binding. They can earn from $3 to $4 a
week when constantly employed. He usually pays by the week, and has it
done in his shop. A sail maker in Connecticut writes: "Women are
employed at sail making in France. A knowledge of arithmetic and
draughting are essential. The work is done at all seasons. The
occupation is filled. It is usual to spend four years as an apprentice.
The best locations are in seaports or river towns. I think the
occupation is too laborious for women."
=506. Shoe-Peg Makers.= A shoe-peg manufacturing association, in New
Hampshire, furnish me a report of the work they have done by women, as
follows: "Women are employed only to feed the machine with prepared
blocks, and sorting pegs after they are split. The work is light, and
well adapted to the physical capacity of girls and women. They can do
the work just as well as young men and boys, and perhaps a little
quicker. Wages are perhaps two thirds as much as that of men in the same
branches. Two hundred women would do all the work, in their several
departments, in the business, for the whole of North and South America.
We employ sixteen in our mill, at $3.50 per week, including board, which
is called about $1.75. Men are not employed in the same branches. A part
could be learned in one month--nearly half of it would require from six
to twelve months. Girls are paid $3 a week, while learning. Nothing
needed but ready and quick application. They work eleven hours. Each
hour less would be more than a private loss. All are Americans."
=507. Shroud Makers.= There is something repulsive in death--the
shroud--the cap--the coffin--the sunken eyes--the still hands and
ghastly face. Death is fearful, even in its mildest forms. And yet how
we yearn for rest--how we long for quiet! How we pant for that glorious
freedom from anxiety and care, that awaits the just in heaven! The
change of the chrysalis to the butterfly, of the seed to the plant, of
the earth beneath our feet, and the heavens above--the very
consciousness within us, all proclaim unmistakably the truth that the
spirit will not die--that it is immortal. There are duties connected
with the house of mourning that afflicted friends and relatives have not
the heart to perform. These, therefore, devolve upon persons interested
in the dead, or hired attendants. Closing the eyes, washing the body,
making the shroud and putting it on, are in some cases performed by the
hired nurse, but generally making the shroud is done by the undertaker's
wife. Some undertakers keep shrouds in their shops ready for sale. In
large cities, an undertaker's wife is in many cases sent for by the
nurse, to assist in laying out the dead, and receives, as a
compensation, from $3 to $5. The wife of an undertaker told me that she
lines the coffins for her husband. They buy their caps already made, of
an old lady who brings them around. Mr. ----, an undertaker, is always
willing to dress the remains of any but those who have died of small
pox. He charges $3 to wash and dress a corpse, $5 with shaving. An
undertaker told me he knew women could be employed in plaiting the folds
of silk in coffins, and making coffin pillows. The wholesale trade send
away large quantities of shrouds and caps, and so have many made up. A
man in Newark, who devotes himself exclusively to making shrouds,
employs several women. In England, some undertakers employ women to make
up mourning suits.
=508. Sign Painters.= Sign painting requires a long, steady, and regular
apprenticeship. It requires also a correct eye and a steady hand. In
large cities, sign and ornamental painting can be made a distinct branch
of painting; but in a town or village it is combined with carriage or
house painting, as one individual seldom has enough sign and ornamental
painting to keep him constantly occupied. It is not more necessary for a
painter to know how to mix the paints, and use judgment and taste in the
selection of colors, than to form letters according to geometrical
proportions. A painter must measure, more by the eye than a rule, the
size and arrangement of letters in a given space. Good painters receive
$3, $4, and $5 a day for their work, but generally are paid by the
piece. When paid by the week, and they work regularly, they receive from
$12 to $15 a week. Mrs. K., New York, says in Dublin there are many
families that devote themselves to sign painting, but she knows of none
in this country except her own. She employs a man to grind paints, put
up signs, &c.,--also to paint out-of-door signs, that is, such as must
be painted on the building. Her two daughters paint all the signs that
are to be put up. Some of the large signs above stores in New York have
been painted by them. They are paid as good prices as men. She thinks an
individual should commence early to learn. Her daughters received their
instruction and advice from their father. In that way they acquired
maturity of judgment and nicety of hand. Judgment needs to be exercised
in regard to size and space, and artistic taste in ornamenting. A sign
painter told me that superior workers can earn from $3 to $15 a day, if
they have sufficient employment. Many house and other painters, in
cities, profess to paint signs, but in reality have it done. Germans do
much of it in New York, because they do it cheaply, but many of them do
not execute their work well. It is customary to have an apprentice three
years, and pay the usual terms, $2.50 a week, the first year. A boy,
during the first year, mostly grinds paints, goes errands, &c. Spring is
the most busy season. Painting in oils is not neat work. A sign and
carriage painter writes me: "The work is unhealthy on account of the
poisonous vapors and dust. It requires two or three years to learn, and
one must have a great deal of practice. A common education, natural
taste, and a correct eye are the qualifications needed. Many parts of it
are very easy and pleasant. Some parts might be done by women." The
business pays best in large towns and cities. An ornamental painter
writes me: "Women are employed in sign painting in England, France,
Germany, and Belgium. The time required to learn would depend on the
taste or genius of the individual. The qualifications requisite are
those of an artist in a less degree." B., an emblematic sign painter,
thinks the employment very suitable for females, but supposes there are
better openings in other cities than New York. It requires two or three
years to learn all the different branches well. During the first year a
learner could not support herself, but after that could, if she had a
taste for it, was industrious, and received enough orders to keep her
busy.
=509. Snuff Packers.= At a snuff factory, I saw two women putting up
snuff. The women color the bladders for holding snuff, in tobacco water,
pack, cap, label, varnish, and wrap them. They are weighed after being
packed, and women are paid at the rate of one cent a pound. Women always
stand in packing. They can earn from $5 to $6 a week, and have work all
the year. The woman with whom we conversed was a sensible American, who
told us her health had failed greatly during the nine years she had
worked in snuff. While working in the snuff, women wear caps, but are so
covered with it that they might be mistaken for bags of snuff. Of
course, a great deal is inhaled. Both the women I saw complained of
difficulty in breathing, particularly when they lie down at night. One
said, when suffering great oppression she would vomit, and throw up
snuff as fresh in taste and smell as before it was inhaled. For packing
snuff in jars, they are paid by the week, $4.50, and, for putting it in
bottles still less. Men are mostly employed in packing snuff.
=510. Stencil Makers.= A stencil-plate maker told me that cutting the
plates could be done by women, but it would require a strong, stout
woman to hammer the plates after they are cool. In learning, a boy
receives $2 a week. There are very few stencil cutters in the South and
West. People send North for their plates, or get them cut by travelling
peddlers, who are not allowed now in the South. The price of stencil
plates has fallen very greatly. Such as would have sold for $5 a few
years ago, can now be had for fifty cents. I saw a lady who cut stencil
plates. She wanted an agent to sell her plates and ink.
=511. Street Sweepers.= The girls seen in New York sweeping the
crossings in winter, are not paid by the city, but receive, now and
then, from a passer by, a penny for their labor. If enough of strong men
were employed by the city, and properly paid, it would serve to diminish
the $13,000,000 annually spent in New York for preventable sickness,
where thirty-one die every day more than in Philadelphia, while its
natural advantages are greater. In Paris, women are employed as street
sweepers.
=512. Tip Gilders.= Most hats and caps are made in New York city. There
are six establishments in the city devoted to tip gilding, and morocco
cutting and rolling, and four girls, on an average, in each. The girls
put the sizing and gold leaf on, and, when the impression is made, brush
the loose gold leaf off. A man in the business told me he sometimes
finds it difficult to get a good hand, and always prefers to teach a
girl. He pays from $2 to $6 a week. The men cut the morocco for linings,
and girls roll down the edge by running it through a small machine.
=513. Tobacco Strippers.= In tobacco factories, women are generally
employed to strip the leaves from the stems. Smoking tobacco is cut in
machines, and put in papers of different sizes. But little chewing
tobacco is prepared in the Southern and Western States, though some
factories have commenced it in the West during the last few years. Some
leaf tobacco is put up in the South by slaves. In the West it is
difficult to get hands, but in New York there is a surplus, though they
are the very dregs of society. A. told me the women he employs are
mostly Irish, and of low origin. They are generally old women, not fit
for much else, and they are quite as poorly paid as in any other branch
of labor. The part done by women is not unhealthy, though some of the
parts done by men in close rooms are thought to be unhealthy. H. pays by
the pound for stripping, and the girls earn from $2 to $4 a week. They
sit while at work. In packing they stand, because they can do more. He
employs his hands all the year. For packing tobacco in papers and boxes
the girls are paid by the paper, and earn about the same as the
strippers. The work is dirty, and the hands change their clothes when
they come and go. It requires some time to acquire expertness. H.
considers tobacco very healthy, if not taken inwardly to excess. He says
tobacco workers never have fevers. (?) I went through G.'s factory. I
never saw females engaged in such degrading work, and so uncomfortably
situated, in all my life. It is far worse than rag picking. A tier of
bunks (two on a side), in dark, narrow rooms, the centre filled with
hogsheads of tobacco, a hatchway, and machinery made up the furniture of
the place. The air was so close and strong, that I was almost stifled
during the short time I spent there. The floor was covered with filth
and waste tobacco. In the lower bunks, in one room, it was with
difficulty I could discover the features of the old women and neglected
children, at work. A forewoman had the superintendence, who assisted the
workers in weighing the tobacco, and keeping an account of the amount
given each. They were mostly Irish. It is very filthy, disagreeable
work. Their tobacco strippers are paid fifty cents one hundred pounds.
They strip from twenty to fifty pounds a day, earning from $1 to $3 a
week. The majority have no homes, but hire lodgings at thirty-seven
cents a week, and buy something to eat. They work from seven to half
past five or six, having half an hour at noon. At C.'s, the rooms were
not so dark, cramped, and uncomfortable as at G.'s. They employ
seventy-five women and children. The forewoman told me that a smart
hand, working in good leaf, and having constant employment, can earn
from $3 to $5 a week. They are paid two cents for three pounds. The
packers, if active and skilful, can earn more. At a place on Greenwich
street, they pay thirty-five cents per hundred pounds for stripping, and
a woman may earn from $1 to $4 a week at it. At packing they can earn
from $3 to $6. At L.'s, they employ one hundred and twenty-five girls
and women. At packing their girls can earn from $4.25 to $9 a week,
working only in daylight. Strippers can earn from $1.50 to $3.50, and
are mostly old widow women with children. The foreman thinks it most
healthy for packers to stand, as they are thereby saved from stooping.
He tries to get the best class of girls he can, but he finds it
impossible to secure the services of American girls. I am glad American
girls object to working in the filthy weed. The girls at L.'s have
employment all the year. M. pays forty cents per hundred pounds for
stripping. His strippers earn from thirty to forty cents a day. Some
packers are able to earn $1 a day. They have work all the year.
Tobacconists in Albany write: "We employ women in papering tobacco, and
pay by the dozen, the hands earning from $3 to $5 per week. They work
ten hours a day, the year through." A tobacconist in Hartford "pays his
women by the week, $3.50, for stripping tobacco. They work ten hours a
day. It requires but a few weeks to learn the work done by women."
B----'s, of Boston, write: "We always have employment for women, in
stripping and papering tobacco, and other light work. They are employed,
also, in making cigars. By some physicians the work is considered
healthy. We pay by the week, from $3 to $5, working ten hours a day. The
men who make cigars are mostly foreigners, thoroughly acquainted with
their business, a kind of work which requires a regular apprenticeship
to learn. The women never give their time to learn, and we cannot afford
to teach them, on account of the low price of goods made in Germany,
shipped here by millions. Hence, the men, in their part of the business,
earn from $6 to $15 per week. Learners receive their board. It would be
much better if a tariff, excluding cheap cigars, were passed. The
comfort and remuneration are as good as any branch of female industry.
Board, $2 to $3."
=514. Toy Makers.= The thousand and one inventions for amusing children
have given exercise to a variety of talents. Any particular style of toy
follows the fashion of the world--it passes away, and another takes its
place. Pewter toys are made in New York, tin toys in Philadelphia and
Connecticut. The reason more toys are not made in this country is the
high price of labor and living. Children's drums are made both in the
city and country. N. & Co., manufacturers of military and toy drums in
Massachusetts, write: "We employ one woman only in our factory, who
makes the straps for drums. She works by the piece, and earns $1 a day,
boarding herself." A manufacturer of pewter toys, in New York, employs
ten or twelve boys. He pays $1.75 per week, of ten hours a day. He could
use girls just as well, but prefers boys. I called at a manufactory of
tin ware. The proprietor makes tin toys, and employs some women to paint
them. The work has to be done on the premises, as the articles have to
be subjected to heat after they are painted. The girls work ten hours a
day, and are paid $3 a week. H., New York, makes small boats and
vessels. They range in price from 37 cents to $30. The highest priced
are perfect in all their parts. He pays a woman $80 a year for stitching
by machine the edges of the sails. B., manufacturer of mechanical toys,
employs twenty girls in soldering and painting. The painting is done by
stencils. It requires but a short time to learn. Good hands earn from
$2.50 to $4 per week. There are two departments in the manufacture of
dolls--making and painting. D. employs women out of the house to make
bodies for dolls--muslin stuffed with wadding. G., New York, pays his
girls about $4 per week for dressing dolls. At a large store in New
York, I was told they employ a number of girls for dressing dolls,
paying from $3 to $4 per week. They pay by the piece, according to the
size, and style of dress. In busy seasons, the girls are allowed to take
some dolls home and dress them in the evening. Doll dressing requires
taste, expertness, ingenuity, and economy in cutting the materials.
Their room is superintended by a lady. At a store for the sale of fancy
goods, on inquiring about the canton-flannel rabbits, mice, &c., I was
told they give them to a school girl in Brooklyn to make. She makes them
out of school hours, and earns $1.50 per week. They are sewed by a
machine, because it can be done faster. The treasurer of a firm
manufacturing Yankee notions, in Providence, writes they have six women
employed in labelling and packing light goods, who earn from $3 to $6
per week, of ten hours a day. It requires about four weeks to learn to
do the work. There is no difference in seasons. What work women do at
all they do as well as men. Some places are better than others for this
style of manufacture.
=515. Varnishers and Varnish Makers.= In France, women are employed as
varnishers of furniture. At some varnish factories, women are employed
to separate the good from the imperfect gum, and I think are paid the
usual price of woman's work, 50 cents a day. Women might make spirit
varnish. Copal varnish has to be boiled, and is liable to take fire. As
it requires much strength to stir it, women could not very well make it.
The varnishing of pianos could be done by women. A manufacturer of
musical instruments told me a solution, one constituent of which is
pulverized marble, has been made for varnishing, that is very
substantial. A knife can be broken against it, after it has become
hardened on furniture. It will probably be used very extensively.
=516. Water Carriers.= "Everywhere on the banks of the Nile, the poorer
sort of women may be seen bringing up water from the river, in pitchers,
on their heads or shoulders." There are from one hundred to one hundred
and fifty water carriers in London, but they are mostly or all men.
EMPLOYMENTS FOR THE AFFLICTED.
=517. Blind Women.= Many blind persons are employed as follows:
Attendants in blind institutions, authors, basket makers, bead workers,
broom makers, brush makers, carpet and rug weavers, chair seaters,
flower and fruit venders, governesses, hair and moss pickers, hucksters,
knitters, match sellers, mattress makers, milk sellers, music teachers,
netters, newspaper and book agents, paper-box makers, seamstresses,
stationers, straw braiders, teachers, umbrella sewers, washerwomen,
willow workers. We think they usually engage in their work with pleasure
and profit. Fortunately the tools employed in the occupations of the
blind do not cost much. So if the blind have a thorough knowledge of
some pursuit, and means to keep them until they are established and able
to secure constant work, they may feel sure of a comfortable livelihood.
Their occupations are of a kind to furnish them with most constant
employment in a city. Though the compensation for each article is small,
yet, when one's time is fully occupied, the aggregate is considerable.
=518. Deaf Mutes.= Deaf mutes can engage in most branches of book
making, fancy work, sewing, shoe making, teach drawing, and teach those
afflicted like themselves.
=519. The Lame.= The lame can braid straw, color photographs, copy, cut
labels, edit papers, embroider, engrave, make mats, make pens, model,
paint, sew--indeed, do almost anything. Lameness is no excuse for
idleness. What do lame men do? None of them, that have any self-respect,
beg or sit idle because they are lame.
UNUSUAL EMPLOYMENTS.
=520. United States.= Last summer, a lady ascended alone in a balloon,
from Palace Garden, N. Y. She went up once in a balloon filled with hot
air. She received part of the profits derived from the admittance fees,
and the keeper of the garden the other portion, neither of which were
very large. Several women have gone up with their husbands. We take the
following items from the summary of the San Francisco _Alta California_,
of December 5th: "At the recent election, two women were elected to fill
office in Placer County--one as justice of the peace, and the other as
constable. Each received one vote in the precinct, and there was no
opposition." It is seldom that a lady's exertions are called forth as
were those of Mrs. Patton, wife of the captain of the ship _Neptune's
Car_. Yet, it goes to confirm what we have stated in some other place,
that any valuable information acquired will always come in use. We will
quote the extract as we saw it in a newspaper, copied from a San
Francisco letter: "Fifty days ago, Captain Patton was attacked with the
brain fever, and for the last twenty-five days has been blind. Previous
to his illness, he had put the first mate off duty on account of his
incompetency. After the captain's illness, the second mate took charge
of the ship, but he did not understand navigation. The first mate wrote
Mrs. Patton a letter, reminding her of the dangers of the coast, and of
the great responsibility she had assumed, and offered to take charge of
the ship; but she stood by the decision of her husband and declined the
offer. She worked up the reckoning every day, and brought the ship
safely into port. During all this time she acted as nurse to the
captain. She studied medicine to learn how to treat his case, and shaved
his head, and by competent care and watchfulness kept him alive. She
said that for fifty nights she had not undressed herself. Few women
could have done so much and done it so well. She was at once navigator,
nurse, and physician, and protector of the property intrusted to her
husband." The Geneva _Courier_ notices the appearance in that village
"of a strong-armed, strong-backed, and, of course, strong-minded woman,
in charge of a canal boat, of which she is owner and captain. She is of
German origin, and manages her craft with great ability." In New York, I
saw a woman driving a bread wagon, one rolling a wheelbarrow, and
another drawing a similar wagon filled with ashes. A few women are
employed in charcoal burning in New Jersey.
=521. England.= In looking over the census of Great Britain, for 1850,
we are surprised to find that in some of those occupations most suitable
for women, as physicians, music composers, teachers of mathematics,
macaroni packers, mask makers, honey dealers, lecturers, reporters, and
spice merchants, not one female is reported; while, in occupations
altogether unsuitable, many women are employed--in some, even hundreds.
No doubt many of these women, perhaps a majority, and in some
occupations it may be all, are the widows of men who have been engaged
in the business, and who employ others to do the work. In some of the
other occupations, the women probably do only the lighter work, under
the direction of the masters or competent foremen. Circumstances, as
regards occupation, certainly do much to influence the fate of every
one. But in no respect is there a greater need of reform, than in the
proper appreciation of employments by the sexes. Men have, in bygone
times, seized upon the lightest and most lucrative occupations, and by
custom still retain them. The most laborious and disagreeable work is
left for women, and what is still worse, they are paid only from one
third to one half as much as men, doing the same kind of work. Of the
occupations that strike us as odd for women, in the census of Great
Britain, are makers of agricultural implements, anchor smiths, barge
women, barge boat builders, bell hangers, bedstead makers, bill
stickers, blacksmiths, brass manufacturers, brick makers, bristle
manufacturers, builders, carpenters, case (packing) makers, chimney
sweepers, coke burners, commercial travellers, engine and machinery
makers, ferriers, goldbeaters, grindstone cutters, gun makers, hawkers,
hemp manufacturers, hinge makers, nail manufacturers, oil refiners,
paper hangers, parasol and umbrella stick manufacturers, peat cutters,
plasterers, potato merchants, railway-station attendants, razor makers,
ring-chain makers, rivet makers, rope makers, saddle-tree makers, sail
makers, scale makers, sawyers, scavengers, sextons, ship agents, ship
builders, small steel-ware manufacturers, snuff and tobacco
manufacturers, spade makers, spar cutters, spirit and wine merchants,
stone breakers, stone quarriers, stove, grate, and range makers, sugar
refiners, surgical-instrument makers, timber merchants, timber choppers
and benders, tin manufacturers, trunk makers, turners, turpentine
manufacturers, undertakers, vermin destroyers, well sinkers,
wheelwrights, white-metal manufacturers, wine manufacturers, wood
dealers, and zinc manufacturers. In the furniture trade of Great
Britain, 5,763 women are employed, while 7,479 are engaged in
conveyance. I would also add, that in Great Britain, women have been,
and still are, to some extent, employed in coal, copper, iron, lead,
manganese, salt, tin, and other mineral mines. Of those for men
extremely inappropriate, are reported three hundred and sixty-six dress
makers, and sixty-one embroiderers. "In the reign of George II. (says
Mrs. Childs), the minister of Clerkenwell was chosen by a majority of
women. The office of champion has frequently been held by a woman, and
was so at the coronation of George I. The office of grand chamberlain,
in 1822, was filled by two women; and that of clerk of the crown, in the
court of king's bench, has been granted to a female. The celebrated
Anne, Countess of Pembroke, held the hereditary office of sheriff of
Westmoreland, and exercised it in person, sitting on the bench of the
judges. In ancient councils, mention is made of deaconesses; and in an
edition of the New Testament printed in 1574, a woman is spoken of as
minister of a church." Miss Betsy Miller has for years commanded the
Scotch brig, Cleotus. Her father commanded a vessel plying between
England and France. After his wife died, the daughter frequently
accompanied him. On his death, being without a home on land, she took
command of the vessel, and remained in the capacity of captain several
years. An English correspondent of an American paper writes: "Walking,
lately, near some white-lead works, about the hour of closing, we
observed the sudden egress of about a hundred women from the
establishment, all Irish, and all decently clad and well conducted. On
inquiry, we found that they are employed continuously in the works,
piling the lead for oxidation, and in various other processes, not by
any means coming under the denomination of light labor." A few years
ago, a singular death occurred in England. It was that of a woman, who,
owing to harsh treatment from her parents when a child, left her home at
the age of eight, dressed in boy's clothes, got work as a boy, learned
the trade of a mason, and worked at it until about middle age, when the
business was changed for that of a beer house, in which occupation the
individual continued until her death, at the age of sixty. She always
dressed as a man. When quite young, she was very industrious and
hard-working. Many of the large houses and tall chimneys in Manchester
and Salford were built by her. "The 7,000 women returned in the census
under the head of miners, are, no doubt, for the most part, the dressers
of the ores in the Cornish and Welsh mines. The work is dirty, but not
too laborious; less laborious than the work which may perhaps be
included under the same head--the supplying porcelain clay from the same
regions of country. Travellers in Devonshire and Cornwall are familiar
with the ugly scenery of hillsides where turf is taken up, and the
series of clay pits is overflowing, and the plastered women are stirring
the mess, or sifting and straining, or drying or moulding the refined
clay. The mineral interest is, however, one of the smallest in the
schedule of female industry; and it is likely to contract, rather than
expand--except the labor of sorting the ores." In Great Britain, some
women work in alabaster, and some in alum mines. In what is called the
Black country, some women are employed on the pit banks, and some about
the furnace yards. A London paper says: "Melton and its neighborhood can
boast of three public characters, which, perhaps, no other can; namely,
two independent ladies, who have taken out game certificates, and who
enter the field, and can bring down the game equal to any sportsman, as
well as those indulging in fishing, hunting over the country with
hounds, &c. The third is a female blacksmith, a daughter of Mr. William
Hinman, who is such an adept at shoeing a horse or working at the anvil,
as to cause universal excitement. It was but the other day that she took
off the old shoes of a horse, pared the feet, and fitted the shoes at
the fire, and affixed them in the most scientific manner possible, and
in considerably less time than her father could, who is called one of
the quickest shoers in Melton." Some women are employed as kelp burners
in Great Britain; and some, as bathers, manage the bathing machines used
on the coast. In the census of Great Britain are reported some women as
hack proprietors.
=522. France.= A Paris correspondent of the New York _Times_ writes: "My
washerwoman is a man. He lives in the Rue Blanc, and any one may see him
up to his elbows in soap suds, or ironing frills on bosoms. His wife is
a wood sawyer." It is not unusual, in the public gardens of Germany, and
on the broad sidewalks of the Boulevards in Paris, for men and women to
hire a chair for a sou to a passer by who wishes to rest. In France,
some women are engaged in cutting and drying seaweeds, and some in
making wooden shoes. "In the department of Somme, France, women alone
have the right to go into the fields and gather stones to repair the
roads. In the cantons where peat is dug, the privilege of loading and
unloading the boats which carry it is given them. At Cistal, in
Provence, women alone have been authorized to sell the water which was
brought from a fountain some distance from the city. No man could be a
carrier of water. In other parts, to women is given the transport of
trunks, valises, clothes bags, and effects for the use of travellers on
packets. These resources are momentary. Accorded by one mayor, they can
be withdrawn by another." "In Paris, women cry the rate of exchange,
after Bourse hours." They also "undertake the moving of furniture, agree
with you as to price, and you find them quite as responsible as men."
The author of "Parisian Sights and French Principles" mentions a number
of female employments rather novel to Americans: "I will say nothing of
their laboring in the field, their driving huge carts through the
streets of Paris, and other rude labors which soon rub out of them all
feminine softness; but confine myself to the more agreeable duties which
they have here usurped from men. Indeed, a man is but a secondary being
in the scale of French civilization. The 'dames à comptoir' are as
essential to the success of a Parisian _café_ as the cook himself. More
hats are donned at their shrines than before the most brilliant belles
of the metropolis. My boot maker, or the head of the establishment, is a
woman; my porter is of the same sex, older in years and worse in looks;
my butcher, milkman, and the old-clothes man, newsboy, and rag gatherer
beneath my window, ditto. They are waiters at the baths, doorkeepers at
the theatres, ticket sellers, fiddlers, chair letters of the churches;
they figure in every revolution, and have a tongue and arms in every
fight; in short, they are at the bottom and top of everything in
France." In the Hotel des Invalides, at Paris, is Lieutenant Madame
Brulow, who entered in 1799, and has been there ever since. Her father,
brothers, and husband were soldiers, and were all killed in battle; at
the age of twenty she was a widow and a mother. She joined the French
army at Corsica, where she behaved very bravely; but was disabled for
service by the bursting of a bomb while in the discharge of her duties
as sergeant. She is a woman of chaste manners and correct principles.
She dresses in the uniform of the Invalides. Louis XVIII. conferred on
her the rank of second lieutenant, and by the present Napoleon she was
made a member of the society of the Legion of Honor. A female soldier,
whose history is similar to Madame Brulow's, died near Paris, a short
time since, at the age of eighty-seven. She was a dragoon, and served in
Italy, Germany, and Spain, in all the campaigns of the French, from 1793
to 1812. When Bonaparte was first consul, he expressed a wish to see
her, and she was kindly received by him at St. Cloud. She received many
wounds in battle, and had four horses killed under her. We find the
following article, taken from Galignani's _Messenger_: "In consequence
of the success obtained by Madame Isabella in breaking horses for the
Russian army, the French Minister of War authorized her to proceed,
officially, before a commission of generals and superior officers of
cavalry, to a practical demonstration of the method, on a certain number
of young cavalry horses. After twenty days' training, the horses were so
perfectly broken in, that the Minister no longer hesitated to enter into
an arrangement with Madame Isabella to introduce her system into all the
imperial schools of cavalry, beginning with that of Saumur."
=523. Other Countries.= Professor Ingraham, in his "Pillar of Fire,"
describing the Hebrews at work in Egypt, says: "The men that carried
brick to the smoothly swept ground where they were to be dried,
delivered them to women, who, many hundreds in number, placed them side
by side on the earth in rows--a lighter task than that of the men. The
borders of this busy plain, where it touched the fields of stubble
wheat, were thronged with women and children gathering straw for the men
who mixed the clay." "The Egyptian ladies," says the same writer,
"employed much of their time with the needle, and either with their own
hands, or by the agency of their maidens, they embroidered, wove, spun,
and did needlework." Herodotus says: "It was expected of the virgins
consecrated to the service of the Egyptian temples to gather flowers for
the altars, to feed the sacred birds, and daily to fill the vases with
pure, fresh water from the Nile." During the middle ages, "women
preached in public, supported controversies, published and defended
theses, filled the chairs of philosophy and law, harangued the popes in
Latin, wrote Greek, and read Hebrew. Nuns wrote poetry, women of rank
became divines, and young girls publicly exhorted Christian princes to
take up arms for the recovery of the Holy Sepulchre." "In the Greek
island of Hinnin, the inhabitants gain a livelihood by obtaining sponges
for the Turkish baths; and no girl is allowed to marry till she has
proved her dexterity by bringing up from the sea a certain quantity of
this marketable article." The wife of the Burmese governor was observed,
by some Englishmen, to superintend the building of her husband's ship.
"In many of the South Sea islands, women assist in the construction of
the buildings appropriated to common use. Sometimes a woman of
distinction may be seen carrying a heavy stone for the foundation of a
building, while a stout attendant carries the light feathered staff to
denote her rank." "In Genoa there are marriage brokers, who have
pocketbooks filled with the names of marriageable girls of different
classes, with an account of their fortunes, personal attractions, &c.
When they succeed in arranging connections, they have two or three per
cent. commission on the portion. The contract is often drawn up before
the parties have seen each other. If a man dislikes the appearance or
manners of his future partner, he may break off the match, on condition
of paying the brokerage and other expenses." In the "Art Student in
Munich," we find this passage: "You know, in Germany, your neighbor's
dresses by meeting the laundresses bearing them home through the streets
upon tall poles, like gay pennons." "In Munich, a servant girl will be
sent around with a number of advertisements and a paste pot, and pastes
up the advertisements at the corners of the streets throughout the
city." "At Homburg, Germany, four, six, or eight girls, according to the
season, dip the water from the spring, by taking three tumblers by the
handles in each hand, and filling them without stopping, and supplying
those in waiting, so fast that there is no crowd and no jostling and
impatience." Mrs. Nicolson says: "Many a poor widow have I seen in
Ireland, with some little son or daughter, spreading manure, by
moonlight, over her scanty patch of ground; or, before the rising of the
sun, going out, with her wisp about her forehead and basket to her back,
to gather her turf or potatoes." "In the elevated, cold, dry regions of
Thibet, the goats are furnished with a fine down or hair-like wool under
the coarse, common outer wool. The long hairs are picked out, the
remainder washed out in nice water, and then handspun by women." "In
some African tribes, it is common for the women to unite with the men in
hunting the lion and the leopard." During the reign of Anne of Austria,
the French women often appeared at the head of political factions,
wearing scarfs that designated the party to which they belonged. Swords
and harps, violins and cuirasses, were seen together in the same saloon.
There was a regiment created under the name of mademoiselle. "During the
late war, Polish women assisted the men in erecting fortifications, and
one of the outworks was called the 'lunette of the women,' because it
was built entirely by their hands. The Countess Plater raised and
equipped a regiment of five or six hundred Lithuanians at her own
expense; and she was uniformly at their head, encouraging them by her
brave example in every battle. The women proposed to form three
companies of their own sex, to share the fatigues and perils of the
army; but their countrymen, wishing to employ their energies in a manner
less dangerous, distributed them among the hospitals to attend the
wounded." "In the army of the King of Siam, one corps particularly
attracts the attention of strangers, which is a battalion of the king's
guard, composed of women. This battalion consists of four hundred women,
chosen from among the handsomest and most robust girls in the country.
They receive excellent pay, and their discipline is perfect. They are
admitted to serve at the age of thirteen, and are placed in the army of
reserve at twenty-five. From that period they no longer serve about the
king's person, but are employed to guard the royal palaces and crown
lands."
MINOR EMPLOYMENTS.
=524. United States.= A little boy told me he used to catch butterflies,
and sell them in New York at a penny apiece for canary birds. Sometimes
he would get one hundred a day; and at other times, not as many a week.
Some women are seen on the streets of our large cities, selling baskets,
brushes, sponges, and wash leather--and many with baskets containing
tape, cord, pins, &c. Some women buy waste paper to sell to grocers,
butchers, fishmongers, and such others as would use it for wrapping. A
few resort to levees and warehouses to seek the scraps of waste cotton
that are lost by the removal of bales. Some collect ashes, separate the
cinders, wash and sell them; while some collect wood scattered about
lumber yards, and catch that drifting in rivers.
=525. England.= Some children on the streets of London are employed in
the sale of fly-papers. Some sell paper cuttings to ornament ceilings.
Sand is sold on the streets for scouring and for birds--also gravel for
birds. Some women, in London, go around and buy the skins of rabbits and
hares to sell again, and some keep little shops where they buy kitchen
stuff, grease, and dripping. In England, women are hired to pick
currants and gooseberries, put up fruit, weed gardens, bind grain, pick
hops, and sometimes even to cut hay and dig potatoes. On the streets of
London, some women sell conundrums and playbills, which are pinned to a
large screen, and a number sell stationery. In old countries nothing is
lost. Use is found for every article, even when no longer of value for
its original purpose. For instance, old tin kettles and coal scuttles,
we learn from Mr. Babbage, are cut up for the bottoms and bands of
trunks, and by manufacturing chemists in preparing a black dye used by
calico printers. In some cities of the old countries, every variety of
second-hand miscellaneous articles are sold in shops, from a Jew's harp
to a bedstead. In London, Mayhew says: "Among the mudlarks may be seen
many old women, and it is indeed pitiable to behold them, especially
during the winter, bent nearly double with age and infirmity, paddling
and groping among the wet mud for small pieces of coal, chips of wood,
copper nails that drop out of the sheathing of vessels, or any sort of
refuse washed up by the tide. These women always have with them an old
basket, or an old tin kettle, in which they put whatever they may chance
to find. It usually takes them the whole tide to fill the receptacle,
but, when filled, it is as much as the feeble old creatures are able to
carry home." Little girls, too, eagerly press into the mud as the tide
recedes, to secure what trifles they can, by which to gain bread.
=526. France.= In France, many women are employed in vineyards to pick
grapes, tie up the vines, &c. L. told me he had seen women in France
employed in preparing a kind of fuel made of clay mixed in water, cast
in moulds, and dried. Females are employed by some of the merchants in
Paris to carry goods home for purchasers. One of the most flourishing of
the minor street trades of Paris is that in fried potatoes, invented
some twenty-five years ago by a man that made his fortune at the
business. A few years back might have been seen in the grounds of the
Tuileries an old woman with a long stick, drawing off the surface of the
water the feathers that loosened and fell from the swans that floated on
the ponds. That old woman sold the feathers to buy bread.
=527. Occupations in which no Women are employed.= I have received
information from persons saying women are never engaged in their
branches of business, which are the following: Architectural
Ornamentation, Bonedust, Buckets, Carriage painting, Copperas ("hard and
unsuitable"), Currying, Drug Mills ("only fit for able-bodied men"),
Edge Tools ("not adapted to the sex"), Emery Paper, Flour Mills,
Glazier's Diamonds, Gunpowder ("dangerous"), India Rubber Belting,
Magnesia, Melodeons, Mercantile Agencies, Metallic Furniture, Oil, Oil
Cloth, Organ building, Paint Mills, Pattern making (of wood), Pearlash
("unsuitable"), Philosophical Instruments (except Globes), Pine
Furniture, Pork packing, Reed making, Rivets, Roll covering, Seed
crushing ("requires able bodied men"), Sellers of License, Ship
Crackers, Shot and Lead ("dangerous and unhealthy"), Shovels, Slate,
Spools, Starch ("too hard"), Steel-letter cutting, Stone quarrying,
Street-lamp lighting, Sulphur ("unhealthy"), Superphosphate of Lime
("requires too much muscular strength"), Surveyors' and Engineers'
Instruments, Tanning, Tinfoil, Trowels, Vinegar, Wholesale Fruit
dealing, Wire drawing, Wool combing, and Zinc manufacture.
=528. None in the United States.= There are no women employed in any
capacity in connection with mining and shipping coal in our country.
Neither could any branch of the business be well placed under their
supervision, for very nearly all the labor is performed by foreigners of
the most low and illiterate class. None are employed in Baggage
transportation, Bleaching, Brokers' Offices, Chemical Works, Cutlery,
Furniture moving, Glue drying, Gun making, Iron Works, Landscape
gardening, Lead Pencils, Sail making, Savings Banks, Silvering Mirrors,
Tending Sheep, and Wood carving.
=529. Very few employed.= Attending in offices of ladies' physicians,
Charcoal burning, China painting, Chiropody, Clock Work, Lacquering,
Marble Work, Mirror Frames, Sign painting, Stencil cutting, and Stone
Ware. "As a curious incident of the growing availability of female
labor, Vermont returns four females engaged in ship building, and
Virginia reports two so employed." Mrs. Swisshelm is an inspector of
lumber, receiving a salary of $500 per annum. Mrs. N. Smith was recently
elected mayoress in Oskaloosa, Iowa, the first time that office was ever
filled by a lady. We have been told of a Miss D., who furnishes houses,
receiving a stipulated sum for the exercise of her taste and judgment,
and the time and trouble of making purchases. In the Southern States, a
few colored women are employed about sugar mills, and many in gathering
cotton. I suppose that in some countries women may be, and probably are
employed in the preparation of isinglass and gelatine; also, in
collecting cochineal, and gathering rice and coffee.
=530. The South.= There will be openings in the South for business in
the following branches:
Artificial Eyes, Limbs, and Teeth.
Artificial Flowers.
Bags (Cotton and Paper).
Baskets.
Belts (Ladies').
Bonnets.
Bonnet Ruches.
Bonnet Frames.
Books.
Braces and Trusses.
Brushes.
Buttons.
Candles (from the tallow tree of South Carolina and Georgia).
Candy.
Canes.
Caps.
Card Printing and Stencilling.
Carpets.
Carriage Trimmings.
Car and Carriage Ornamenting.
China.
Cigars.
Cloaks and Mantillas.
Clocks.
Clothing.
Cord.
Cordage and Twine.
Cutlery.
Daguerreotype Apparatus, &c.
Designs.
Drawings (Architectural, &c.).
Dress Caps.
Dress Trimmings.
Embroideries.
Envelopes.
Factory Work.
Fancy Stores.
Feather Dressing.
Fishing Tackle.
Furniture.
Gilding.
Gold Chains.
Gold Pens.
Gold and Silver Leaf.
Grape Growing.
Gum-Elastic Goods.
Hair Dressing and Manufacturing.
Hardware.
Hats.
Hoop Skirts.
Horse Coverings.
Ink.
Jewelry.
Labels.
Lamps.
Lapidaries' Work.
Laundries.
Lead.
Leather.
Life Preservers.
Lithographing.
Maps.
Matches.
Military Goods.
Needle and Thread Stores.
Oils.
Paper Boxes.
Patterns (Ladies' and Children's).
Plated Ware.
Paints.
Painting and Staining of Glass.
Perfumery.
Photography.
Practising Medicine.
Picture Restoring.
Pipes.
Places of Summer Resort.
Porcelain.
Potash.
Pottery.
Printing.
Rag Collecting.
Sealed Provisions.
Sewing-Machine Labor.
Shoes.
Shot.
Soda and Saleratus.
Spectacles.
Stair Rods.
Steel Engraving.
Straw Working.
Surgical Instruments.
Suspenders.
Tailors' Work.
Tape.
Tobacco Stripping and Packing.
Toys.
Types.
Umbrellas and Parasols.
Under Wear.
Wall Paper.
Watches.
Willow Growing.
Window Shades.
Wood Engraving.
There will be openings in St. Louis and Chicago for fur sewers. There
has been a demand for mill girls in Rhode Island. There is a surplus now
of workers in cotton mills, but not of operatives in woollen mills. A
gentleman in Middletown, Conn., wrote me a boarding house for work girls
is wanted there. Makers of ladies' dress caps and ironers of new shirts
have been scarce in New York city.
=531. Prices of Board for Workwomen, and Remarks of Employers.= Aside
from the prices of board for workwomen as mentioned in different parts
of this work, I have intelligence from employers in one hundred and
fifteen towns and cities of the Eastern States, New York, Pennsylvania,
and New Jersey. These places number: Maine 4, New Hampshire 13, Vermont
4, Massachusetts 34, Rhode Island 5, Connecticut 29, New York 19,
Pennsylvania 5, and New Jersey 2. Of the places in Maine, prices of
board for women run from $1.33 ¹/3 to $1.50 a week. In New Hampshire,
they make the same range. In Vermont, the price is given, of all places,
at $1.50. In Rhode Island, from $1.50 to $3. In Connecticut, from $1.42.
to $3. Massachusetts, from $1.25 to $4. New York, $1.50 to $3.50.
Pennsylvania, $1.50 to $5. New Jersey, $1.25 to $1.75. The difference in
board is something between a small town and a city in any State. The
largest number of employers in cities give, as the most common prices,
from $1.50 to $3 per week. Lights and washing are sometimes included in
these prices, but washing very seldom--fuel in the rooms of the
boarders, never. Employers write the boarding houses of their workmen
are comfortable and respectable. We hope they are so, and wish that as
much could be said of all. But we must acknowledge that we feel disposed
to question the comfort of the majority of those for which such prices
are paid in cities as mentioned by the employers. In villages and towns,
board could be had at such rates. But we are confident it would be
impossible to furnish sufficient wholesome food and clean, well
ventilated lodging rooms, at the rates mostly specified in cities, where
rent and provisions are high, with any profit to the keepers of the
houses. Some employers assert that women can live cheaper than men. They
cannot, in most places, to have as good accommodations; and when they
can, the difference is slight. So a just proportion in wages is not
observed, even with such a plea. Most men in industrial avocations
receive $1.50 a day (many $2); women, from 50 cents to $1--most
generally the former price. In France, a workman usually receives 60
cents a day; a woman, over 30 cents. So women do not receive even as
good wages, in proportion to men, in the United States, as in France. In
Lyons, France, women have always been paid for work performed in the
same proportion as men. Most hand seamstresses receive starvation prices
in both countries. In most industrial employments in Dublin, Ireland,
women receive six English shillings a week, for their work of ten hours
a day. Yet on the dusty and disagreeable labor of sorting and picking
rags, some are enabled to earn eight shillings a week, but they are paid
by the piece. School children in Dublin, as well as the working classes,
usually take Monday for a holiday. Nor is it confined to Dublin. In
France and England, Monday is made a day of freedom from work, and of
reckless dissipation, with a large portion of the working people. In
most occupations open to women, the times for work are usually not more
than six months in the year, while men's extend the year round. Some
employers write their women have more time than inclination for mental
improvement--that all their time is at their disposal, except those
hours employed in the factory, workshop, or store, which run from ten to
seventeen hours. A woman's wardrobe requires some hours' attention; and
the more limited her means, the more time is needed to keep it in
repair. We think employers could do much good by learning the condition
of their work people--what their habits and home comforts are; and would
recommend to those disposed to learn something of the results, to read a
work called "The Successful Merchant." I have heard there is a great
laxity of morals in some of the establishments of New York, where men
and women are employed. Proprietors and foremen of correct principles
could do much to prevent this. Much, too, might be avoided by a careful
selection of work people. I learn from one employer that one of his
workwomen reads aloud to the others while at work. It is an admirable
plan, but, where machinery is employed, could not be adopted, because of
the noise. The best policy for any government is a protection of home
produce and manufactures--a policy that it is desirable to see carried
out more fully in our country. It will be observed that the farther we
go south, as a general thing, the better are the prices paid for labor.
Living, however, is somewhat higher. So what is gained in one way is
lost in another. A majority of workwomen in this country are foreigners.
In New York, I have heard the opinion expressed that there are in that
city fifteen foreign workwomen where there is one American. One source
of trouble among workwomen is the indifferent way in which they execute
their work, arising from the want of proper instruction, the want of
application, or a careless habit they acquire. Another failing is
stopping often when at work. A misfortune with many workwomen is that
they have not the physical strength to do much work, to do it
constantly, or to do it fast.
=532. Number of Work Hours.= In France, the number of work hours is 12;
in England, 10; and in most of the United States, 10. In some of the
United States there are no laws regulating the number of work hours; and
in some States, where such laws do exist, they are evaded.
=533. Extracts from the Census Report for 1860.= In advance of
publication, Mr. Kennedy, Superintendent of the United States Census
Report, writes: "The whole number, approximately, of females employed in
the various branches of manufacture, is 285,000. The following are
approximations to the average wages paid in New York and New England.
Monthly wages of females employed in making
"Boots and shoes, $11 25
Clothing, 12 00
Cotton goods, 13 30
Woollen, 16 00
Paper boxes, 14 30
Umbrellas, &c. 13 38
Book folding, 15 38
Printing, 13 65
Millinery, 17 47
Ladies' mantillas, &c. 16 00
Hoop skirts, 14 00"
APPENDIX.
INDUSTRIAL STATISTICS OF PARIS, IN 1848.
-------------------+------------------------------------------------------
OCCUPATIONS. |Number of Men.
| |Number of Women.
| | |Minimum of Men's Wages per Day.
| | | |Maximum of Men's Wages per Day.
| | | | |Minimum of Women's
| | | | | Wages per Day.
| | | | | |Maximum of Women's
| | | | | | Wages per Day.
| | | | | | |Months when Work
| | | | | | | is slack.
-------------------+-------+-------+----+------+----+-----+----------------
| | | ct | $ ct | ct |cents|
-------------------+-------+-------+----+------+----+-----+----------------
Makers of | 217 | 51 | 40 | 1 00 | 15 | 35 |Jan. Feb. Aug.
Accordions | | | | | | |
Sculptors in | 51 | 14 | 40 | 1 20 | 30 | 45 |Jan. Feb. Mar.
Alabaster Night | | | | | | |
Lamps, and Wicks | | | | | | |
Makers of Matches | 184 | 357 | 25 | 1 00 | 12 | 60 |May. Jun. Jul.
| | | | | | | Aug.
Manufacturers of | 83 | 4 | 45 | 0 80 | 30 | .. |Jun. Jul. Aug.
Starch and | | | | | | |
Spongers of | | | | | | |
Cloths | | | | | | |
Dressers of | 491 | 325 | 25 | 1 00 | 20 | 50 |Jun. Jul. Jan.
Woven Goods, | | | | | | |
Silver and Copper| | | | | | |
Dressers and | 31 | 3 | 50 | 1 20 | 20 | 60 |Jan. Feb.
Drawers of Gold | | | | | | |
Gunsmiths | 492 | 8 | 30 | 1 10 | .. | 35 |Jun. Jul. May.
| | | | | | | Mar.
Makers of Scales | 205 | 2 | 60 | 1 10 | .. | .. |Jan. Feb. Aug.
and Weights | | | | | | |
Whalebone Splitters| 96 | 42 | 20 | 1 00 | ave. 29 |Dec. Jan. Feb.
Bandage and Truss | 278 | 404 | 50 | 0 83 | 60 |2 00 |Jan. Feb. and
Makers | | | | | | | part of Dec.
Beaters of Gold | 195 | 377 | 50 | 1 20 | 20 | 60 |Jan. Feb.
and Silver | | | | | | |
Polishers of | 1,091 | 784 | 30 | 2 00 | 15 | 50 |Jan. Feb. Mar.
Steel Jewelry | | | | | | |
Mourning Jewelry | 170 | 54 | 40 | 1 20 | 20 | 60 |Jan. Feb. Jul.
False Jewelry | 1,507 | 456 | 25 | 1 60 | 16 | 80 |Jan. Feb. Mar.
Fine Jewelry | 2,942 | 637 | 20 | 2 40 | .. | 48 |Jul. Aug. Jan.
| | | | | | | Feb.
Garnishers of | 83 | 4 | 50 | 1 10 | 20 | 40 |Jan. Feb. and
Jewels | | | | | | | part of Jul.
Manufacturers of | 216 | 9 | 40 | 2 00 | 30 | 60 |Jul. Aug. Jan.
Implements for | | | | | | |
Billiards | | | | | | |
Toy Manufacturers | 641 | 1,345 | 25 | 1 20 | 10 | 80 |Jan. Feb. Mar.
| | | | | | | Apr.
Bleachers of Woven | 65 | 275 | 50 | 1 00 | 10 | 55 |Jun. Jul. Aug.
Goods | | | | | | | part of Sep.
Washerwomen | 36 | 7,491 | 40 | 0 70 | 20 | 60 |Aug. Jul. Jan.
| | | | | | | Feb.
Wood Workers | 43 | 20 | 40 | 1 00 | 15 | 60 |Jul. Aug. Jan.
| | | | | | | Feb.
Cap Makers | 1,068 | 1,565 | 18 | 1 00 | 8 | 50 |Jan. Feb. Jul.
| | | | | | | part of Aug.
Makers of Hooks | 127 | 75 | 60 | 1 00 | 20 | 35 |Jan. and part
and Eyes, and | | | | | | | of Feb.
Buckles | | | | | | |
Makers of Wax and | 186 | 113 | 40 | 1 00 | 15 | 60 |Jun. Jul. Aug.
Tallow Candles | | | | | | |
Bakers | 1,996 | 643 | 25 | 0 60 | 30 and a loaf of bread
| | | | | | | every day.
| | | | | | | Jun. Jul.
| | | | | | | Aug. Sep.
Embroiderers of | 7 | 876 | 60 | 0 80 | 15 | 60 |Jan. Feb. Jul.
Bags and Purses | | | | | | | and Aug.
Button Makers, | 405 | 185 | 40 | 1 20 | 18 | 40 |Dec. to Feb.,
Horn, Pearl, &c. | | | | | | | being most
| | | | | | | of 3 months.
Button Makers, | 716 | 522 | 30 | 1 20 | 10 | 60 |Jan. Feb. and
Cloth and Metal | | | | | | | part of Jul.
| | | | | | | and Aug.
Bricks, Tiles, | 497 | 27 | 40 | 2 80 | 25 | 60 |Commence in Nov.
and Pipes for | | | | | | | and end in Mar.
Chimneys | | | | | | |
Book Stitchers | 183 | 678 | 20 | 1 00 | 20 | 65 |
Tapestry | 14 | 969 | 70 | 1 20 | 15 | 70 |Jun. Jul. Aug.
Embroiderers | | | | | | |
Embroiderers | 43 | 3,746 | 60 | 3 00 | 10 |1 00 |Jul. Aug., part
| | | | | | | of Jan. Feb.
Manufacturers of | 2,515 | 27 | 45 | 2 00 | 25 | 70 |Most active in
Bronze | | | | | | | Oct. Nov. Dec.
Bronze Carvers | 752 | 6 | 30 | 1 25 | 30 | .. | " " "
Bronze Gilders | 343 | 24 | 50 | 1 20 | 30 | 55 |Oct. Nov. Dec.
Bronze Founders | 1,178 | 1 | 40 |
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