Chapter 1

The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Whitehouse Cookbook (1887) This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook. Title: The Whitehouse Cookbook (1887) Author: F. L. Gillette Hugo Ziemann Release date: November 2, 2004 [eBook #13923] Most recently updated: October 28, 2024 Language: English Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13923 Credits: Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Stephen Schulze and the Distributed Proofreaders Team *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE WHITEHOUSE COOKBOOK (1887) *** THE WHITE HOUSE COOK BOOK _COOKING, TOILET AND HOUSEHOLD RECIPES,_ _MENUS, DINNER-GIVING, TABLE ETIQUETTE,_ _CARE OF THE SICK, HEALTH SUGGESTIONS,_ _FACTS WORTH KNOWING, Etc., Etc._ THE WHOLE COMPRISING A COMPREHENSIVE CYCLOPEDIA OF INFORMATION FOR THE HOME BY MRS. F.L. GILLETTE AND HUGO ZIEMANN, Steward of the White house 1887 TO THE WIVES OF OUR PRESIDENTS, THOSE NOBLE WOMEN WHO HAVE GRACED THE WHITE HOUSE, AND WHOSE NAMES AND MEMORIES ARE DEAR TO ALL AMERICANS, THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. PUBLISHERS' PREFACE In presenting to the public the "WHITE HOUSE COOK BOOK," the publishers believe they can justly claim that it more fully represents the progress and present perfection of the culinary art than any previous work. In point of authorship, it stands preëminent. Hugo Ziemann was at one time caterer for that Prince Napoleon who was killed while fighting the Zulus in Africa. He was afterwards steward of the famous Hotel Splendide in Paris. Later he conducted the celebrated Brunswick Café in New York, and still later he gave to the Hotel Richelieu, in Chicago, a cuisine which won the applause of even the gourmets of foreign lands. It was here that he laid the famous "spread" to which the chiefs of the warring factions of the Republican Convention sat down in June, 1888, and from which they arose with asperities softened, differences harmonized and victory organized. Mrs. F.L. Gillette is no less proficient and capable, having made a life-long and thorough study of cookery and housekeeping, especially as adapted to the practical wants of average American homes. The book has been prepared with great care. Every recipe has been _tried_ and _tested_, and can be relied upon as one of the _best_ of its kind. It is comprehensive, filling completely, it is believed, the requirements of housekeepers of all classes. It embodies several original and commendable features, among which may be mentioned the _menus_ for the holidays and for one week in each month in the year, thus covering all varieties of seasonable foods; the convenient classification and arrangement of topics; the simplified method of explanation in preparing an article, in the order of manipulation, thereby enabling the most inexperienced to clearly comprehend it. The subject of carving has been given a prominent place, not only because of its special importance in a work of this kind, but particularly because it contains entirely new and original designs, and is so far a departure from the usual mode of treating the subject. Interesting information is given concerning the _White House_; how its hospitality is conducted, the menus served on special occasions, views of the interior, portraits of all the ladies of the White House, etc. Convenience has been studied in the make-up of the book. The type is large and plain; it is sewed by patent flexible process, so that when opened it will not close of itself, and it is bound in enameled cloth, adapted for use in the kitchen. THE PUBLISHERS. CONTENTS. ARTICLES REQUIRED FOR THE KITCHEN 588 BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 249 BREAD 238 BUTTER AND CHEESE 219 CAKES 282 CANNED FRUITS 438 CARVING 7 CATSUPS 176 COFFEE, TEA AND BEVERAGES 448 COLORING FOR FRUIT, ETC. 444 CONFECTIONERY 446 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS 344 DINNER GIVING 600 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS 381 DYEING OR COLORING 591 EGGS AND OMELETS 225 FACTS WORTH KNOWING 566 FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES 287 FISH 49 FOR THE SICK 510 FRENCH WORDS IN COOKING 587 FROSTING OR ICING 284 HEALTH SUGGESTIONS 521 HOUSEKEEPERS' TIME-TABLE 542 ICE-CREAM AND ICES 376 MACARONI 216 MANAGEMENT OF STATE DINNER AT WHITE HOUSE 507 MEASURES AND WEIGHTS IN ORDINARY USE 603 MEATS 107 MENUS 478 MISCELLANEOUS 587 MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 543 MODES OF FRYING 48 MUTTON AND LAMB 136 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS 320 PICKLES 179 PORK 144 POULTRY AND GAME 81 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 423 SALADS 168 SANDWICHES 236 SAUCES AND DRESSING 156 SAUCES FOR, PUDDING 417 SHELL FISH 67 SMALL POINTS ON TABLE ETIQUETTE 595 SOUPS 27 SOUPS WITHOUT MEATS 41 SPECIAL MENUS 503 TOAST 276 TOILET RECIPES AND ITEMS 577 VARIETIES OF SEASONABLE FOOD 473 VEGETABLES 191 [Illustration: HELEN HERRON TAFT. Copyright, Photo Clinediust, Washington.] WHITE HOUSE COOK BOOK. CARVING. Carving is one important acquisition in the routine of daily living, and all should try to attain a knowledge or ability to do it well, and withal gracefully. When carving use a chair slightly higher than the ordinary size, as it gives a better purchase on the meat, and appears more graceful than when standing, as is often quite necessary when carving a turkey, or a very large joint. More depends on skill than strength. The platter should be placed opposite, and sufficiently near to give perfect command of the article to be carved, the knife of medium size, sharp with a keen edge. Commence by cutting the slices thin, laying them carefully to one side of the platter, then afterwards placing the desired amount on each guest's plate, to be served in turn by the servant. In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes; for if these are broken the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should acquaint himself with the choicest parts and morsels; and to give each guest an equal share of those _tidbits_ should be his maxim. Steel knives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish, as these are liable to impart a _very_ disagreeable flavor. A fish-trowel of silver or plated silver is the proper article to use. Gravies should be sent to the table very _hot_, and in helping one to gravy or melted butter, place it on a vacant side of the plate, not _pour_ it over their meat, fish or fowl, that they may use only as much as they like. When serving fowls, or meats, accompanied with stuffing, the guests should be asked if they would have a portion, as it is not every one to whom the flavor of stuffing is agreeable; in filling their plates, avoid heaping one thing upon another, as it makes a bad appearance. A word about the care of carving knives: a fine steel knife should not come in contact with intense heat, because it destroys its temper, and therefore impairs its cutting qualities. Table carving knives should not be used in the kitchen, either around the stove, or for cutting bread, meats, vegetables, etc.; a fine whetstone should be kept for sharpening, and the knife cleaned carefully to avoid dulling its edge, all of which is quite essential to successful carving. * * * * * [Illustration] BEEF. HIND-QUARTER. No. 1. Used for choice roasts, the porterhouse and sirloin steaks. No. 2. Rump, used for steaks, stews and corned beef. No. 3. Aitch-bone, used for boiling-pieces, stews and pot roasts. No. 4. Buttock or round, used for steaks, pot roasts, beef _á la mode_; also a prime boiling-piece. No. 5. Mouse-round, used for boiling and stewing. No. 6. Shin or leg, used for soups, hashes, etc. No. 7. Thick flank, cut with under fat, is a prime boiling-piece, good for stews and corned beef, pressed beef. No. 8. Veiny piece, used for corned beef, dried beef. No. 9. Thin flank, used for corned beef and boiling-pieces. FORE-QUARTER. No. 10. Five ribs called the fore-rib. This is considered the primest piece for roasting; also makes the finest steaks. No. 11. Four ribs, called the middle ribs, used for roasting. No. 12. Chuck ribs, used for second quality of roasts and steaks. No. 13. Brisket, used for corned beef, stews, soups and spiced beef. No. 14. Shoulder-piece, used for stews, soups, pot-roasts, mince-meat and hashes. Nos. 15, 16. Neck, clod or sticking-piece used for stocks, gravies, soups, mince-pie meat, hashes, bologna sausages, etc. No. 17. Shin or shank, used mostly for soups and stewing. No. 18. Cheek. The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to the several joints of beef, when cut up. _First Class_.--Includes the sirloin with the kidney suet (1), the rump steak piece (2), the fore-rib (11). _Second Class_.--The buttock or round (4), the thick flank (7), the middle ribs (11). _Third Class_.--The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank (8, 9), the chuck (12), the shoulder-piece (14), the brisket (13). _Fourth Class_.--The clod, neck and sticking-piece (15, 16). _Fifth Class_.--Shin or shank (17). [Illustration] VEAL. HIND-QUARTER. No. 1. Loin, the choicest cuts used for roasts and chops. No. 2. Fillet, used for roasts and cutlets. No. 3. Loin, chump-end used for roasts and chops. No. 4. The hind-knuckle or hock, used for stews, pot-pies, meat-pies. FORE-QUARTER. No. 5. Neck, best end used for roasts, stews and chops. No. 6. Breast, best end used for roasting, stews and chops. No. 7. Blade-bone, used for pot-roasts and baked dishes. No. 8. Fore-knuckle, used for soups and stews. No. 9. Breast, brisket-end used for baking, stews and pot-pies. No. 10. Neck, scrag-end used for stews, broth, meat-pies, etc. In cutting up veal, generally, the hind-quarter is divided into loin and leg, and the fore-quarter into breast, neck and shoulder. _The Several Parts of a Moderately-sized, Well-fed Calf_, about eight weeks old, are nearly of the following weights:--Loin and chump, 18 lbs.; fillet, 12-1/2 lbs.; hind-knuckle, 5-1/2 lbs.; shoulder, 11 lbs.; neck, 11 lbs.; breast, 9 lbs., and fore-knuckle, 5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs. weight. [Illustration] MUTTON. No. 1. Leg, used for roasts and for boiling. No. 2. Shoulder, used for baked dishes and roasts. No. 3. Loin, best end used for roasts, chops. No. 4. Loin, chump-end used for roasts and chops. No. 5. Rack, or rib chops, used for French chops, rib chops, either for frying or broiling; also used for choice stews. No. 6. Breast, used for roast, baked dishes, stews, chops. No. 7. Neck or scrag-end, used for cutlets, stews and meat-pies. NOTE.--A saddle of muton or double loin is two loins cut off before the carcass is split open down the back. French chops are a small rib chop, the end of the bone trimmed off and the meat and fat cut away from the thin end, leaving the round piece of meat attached to the larger end, which leaves the small rib-bone bare. Very tender and sweet. Mutton is _prime_ when cut from a carcass which has been fed out of doors, and allowed to run upon the hillside; they are best when about three years old. The fat will then be abundant, white and hard, the flesh juicy and firm, and of a clear red color. For mutton roasts, choose the shoulder, the saddle, or the loin or haunch. The leg should be boiled. Almost any part will do for broth. Lamb born in the middle of the winter, reared under shelter, and fed in a great measure upon milk, then killed in the spring, is considered a great delicacy, though lamb is good at a year old. Like all young animals, lamb ought to be thoroughly cooked, or it is most unwholesome. [Illustration] PORK. No. 1. Leg, used for smoked hams, roasts and corned pork. No. 2. Hind-loin, used for roasts, chops and baked dishes. No. 3. Fore-loin or ribs, used for roasts, baked dishes or chops. No. 4. Spare-rib, used for roasts, chops, stews. No. 5. Shoulder, used for smoked shoulder, roasts and corned pork. No. 6. Brisket and flank, used for pickling in salt and smoked bacon. The cheek is used for pickling in salt, also the shank or shin. The feet are usually used for souse and jelly. For family use the leg is the most economical, that is when fresh, and the loin the richest. The best pork is from carcasses weighing from fifty to about one hundred and twenty-five pounds. Pork is a white and close meat, and it is almost impossible to over-roast or cook it too much; when underdone it is exceedingly unwholesome. [Illustration] VENISON. No. 1. Shoulder, used for roasting; it may be boned and stuffed, then afterwards baked or roasted. No. 2. Fore-loin, used for roasts and steaks. No. 3. Haunch or loin, used for roasts, steaks, stews. The ribs cut close may be used for soups. Good for pickling and making into smoked venison. No. 4. Breast, used for baking dishes, stewing. No. 5. Scrag or neck, used for soups. The choice of venison should be judged by the fat, which, when the venison is young, should be thick, clear and close, and the meat a very dark red. The flesh of a female deer about four years old, is the sweetest and best of venison. Buck venison, which is in season from June to the end of September, is finer than doe venison, which is in season from October to December. Neither should be dressed at any other time of year, and no meat requires so much care as venison in killing, preserving and dressing. [Illustration:] SIRLOIN OF BEEF. This choice roasting-piece should be cut with one good firm stroke from end to end of the joint, at the upper part, in thin, long, even slices in the direction of the line from 1 to 2, cutting across the grain, serving each guest with some of the fat with the lean; this may be done by cutting a small, thin slice from underneath the bone from 5 to 6, through the tenderloin. Another way of carving this piece, and which will be of great assistance in doing it well, is to insert the knife just above the bone at the bottom, and run sharply along, dividing the meat from the bone at the bottom and end, thus leaving it perfectly flat; then carve in long, thin slices the usual way. When the bone has been removed and the sirloin rolled before it is cooked, it is laid upon the platter on one end, and an even, thin slice is carved across the grain of the upper surface. Roast ribs should be carved in thin, even slices from the thick end towards the thin in the same manner as the sirloin; this can be more easily and cleanly done if the carving knife is first run along between the meat and the end and rib-bones, thus leaving it free from bone to be cut into slices. _Tongue_.--To carve this it should be cut crosswise, the middle being the best; cut in very _thin_ slices, thereby improving its delicacy, making it more tempting; as is the case of all well-carved meats. The root of the tongue is usually left on the platter. [Illustration] BREAST OF VEAL. This piece is quite similar to a fore-quarter of lamb after the shoulder has been taken off. A breast of veal consists of two parts, the rib-bones and the gristly brisket. These parts may be separated by sharply passing the carving knife in the direction of the line from 1 to 2; and when they are entirely divided, the rib-bones should be carved in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and the brisket can be helped by cutting slices from 3 to 4. The carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, as is frequently with this roast of veal, each person should receive a piece. Though veal and lamb contain less nutrition than beef and mutton, in proportion to their weight, they are often preferred to these latter meats on account of their delicacy of texture and flavor. A whole breast of veal weighs from nine to twelve pounds. [Illustration] A FILLET OF VEAL. A fillet of veal is one of the prime roasts of veal; it is taken from the leg above the knuckle; a piece weighing from ten to twelve pounds is a good size and requires about four hours for roasting. Before roasting, it is dressed with a force meat or stuffing placed in the cavity from where the bone was taken out and the flap tightly secured together with skewers; many bind it together with tape. To carve it, cut in even thin slices off from the whole of the upper part or top, in the same manner as from a rolled roast of beef, as in the direction of the figs. 1 and 2; this gives the person served some of the dressing with each slice of meat. Veal is very unwholesome unless it is cooked thoroughly, and when roasted should be of a rich brown color. Bacon, fried pork, sausage-balls, with greens, are among the accompaniments of roasted veal, also a cut lemon. [Illustration] NECK OF VEAL. The best end of a neck of veal makes a very good roasting-piece; it, however, is composed of bone and ribs that make it quite difficult to carve, unless it is done properly. To attempt to carve each chop and serve it, you would not only place _too_ large a piece upon the plate of the person you intend to serve, but you would waste much time, and should the vertebræ have not been removed by the butcher, you would be compelled to exercise such a degree of strength that would make one's appearance very ungraceful, and possibly, too, throwing gravy over your neighbor sitting next to you. The correct way to carve this roast is to cut diagonally from fig. 1 to 2, and help in slices of moderate thickness; then it may be cut from 3 to 4, in order to separate the small bones; divide and serve them, having first inquired if they are desired. This joint is usually sent to the table accompanied by bacon, ham, tongue, or pickled pork, on a separate dish and with a cut lemon on a plate. There are also a number of sauces that are suitable with this roast. [Illustration] LEG OF MUTTON. The best mutton, and that from which most nourishment is obtained is that of sheep from three to six years old, and which have been fed on dry, sweet pastures; then mutton is in its _prime_, the flesh being firm, juicy, dark colored and full of the richest gravy. When mutton is two years old, the meat is flabby, pale and savorless. In carving a roasted leg, the best slices are found by cutting quite down to the bone, in the direction from 1 to 2, and slices may be taken from either side. Some very good cuts are taken from the broad end from 5 to 6, and the fat on this ridge is very much liked by many. The cramp-bone is a delicacy, and is obtained by cutting down to the bone at 4, and running the knife under it in a semicircular direction to 3. The nearer the knuckle the drier the meat, but the under side contains the most finely grained meat, from which slices may be cut lengthwise. When sent to the table a frill of paper around the knuckle will improve its appearance. [Illustration] FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. The first cut to be made in carving a fore-quarter of lamb is to separate the shoulder from the breast and ribs; this is done by passing a sharp carving knife lightly around the dotted line as shown by the figs. 3, 4 and 5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, by raising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should be firmly fixed, it will easily separate with just a little more cutting with the knife; care should be taken not to cut away too much of the meat from the breast when dividing the shoulder from it, as that would mar its appearance. The shoulder may be placed upon a separate dish for convenience. The next process is to divide the ribs from the brisket by cutting through the meat in the line from 1 to 2; then the ribs may be carved in the direction of the line 6 to 7, and the brisket from 8 to 9. The carver should always ascertain whether the guest prefers ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder. [Illustration] HAM. The carver in cutting a ham must be guided according as he desires to practice economy, or have at once fine slices out of the prime part. Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and cut off thin slices toward the thick and upper part of the ham. To reach the choicer portion of the ham, the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should be carried quite down to the bone through the thick fat in the direction of the line from 1 to 2. The slices should be even and thin, cutting both lean and fat together, always cutting down to the bone. Some cut a circular hole in the middle of a ham gradually enlarging it outwardly. Then again many carve a ham by first cutting from 1 to 2, then across the other way from 3 to 4. Remove the skin after the ham is cooked and send to the table with dots of dry pepper or dry mustard on the top, a tuft of fringed paper twisted about the knuckle, and plenty of fresh parsley around the dish. This will always insure an inviting appearance. _Roast Pig_.--The modern way of serving a pig is not to send it to the table whole, but have it carved partially by the cook; first, by dividing the shoulder from the body; then the leg in the same manner; also separating the ribs into convenient portions. The head may be divided and placed on the same platter. To be served as hot as possible. A Spare Rib of Pork is carved by cutting slices from the fleshy part, after which the bones should be disjointed and separated. A leg of pork may be carved in the same manner as a ham. [Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON] HAUNCH OF VENISON A haunch of venison is the _prime_ joint, and is carved very similar to almost any roasted or boiled leg; it should be first cut crosswise down to the bone following the line from 1 to 2; then turn the platter with the knuckle farthest from you, put in the point of the knife, and cut down as far as you can, in the directions shown by the dotted lines from 3 to 4; then there can be taken out as many slices as is required on the right and left of this. Slices of venison should be cut thin, and gravy given with them, but as there is a special sauce made with red wine and currant jelly to accompany this meat, do not serve gravy before asking the guest if he pleases to have any. The fat of this meat is like mutton, apt to cool soon, and become hard and disagreeable to the palate; it should, therefore, be served always on warm plates, and the platter kept over a hot-water dish, or spirit lamp. Many cooks dish it up with a white paper frill pinned around the knuckle bone. A haunch of mutton is carved the same as a haunch of venison. [Illustration] TURKEY. A turkey having been relieved from strings and skewers used in trussing should be placed on the table with the head or neck at the carver's right hand. An expert carver places the fork in the turkey, and does not remove it until the whole is divided. First insert the fork firmly in the lower part of the breast, just forward of fig. 2, then sever the legs and wings on both sides, if the whole is to be carved, cutting neatly through the joint next to the body, letting these parts lie on the platter. Next, cut downward from the breast from 2 to 3, as many even slices of the white meat as may be desired, placing the pieces neatly on one side of the platter. Now unjoint the legs and wings at the middle joint, which can be done very skillfully by a little practice. Make an opening into the cavity of the turkey for dipping out the inside dressing, by cutting a piece from the rear