introduction of the new colourless wine, obtained by gathering grapes

of the black variety with the utmost care at early dawn, and ceasing the vintage at nine or ten in the morning, unless the day were cloudy. Despite these precautions a rosy tinge--compared to that lent by a dying sunset to the waters of a clear stream--was often communicated to the wine, and led to the term 'partridge's eye' being applied to it. St. Evremond, the epicurean Frenchman--who emigrated to the gay court of Charles II. at Whitehall to escape the gloomy cell designed for him in the Bastille--and the mentor of the Count de Grammont, writing from London about 1674, to his brother 'profès dans l'ordre des coteaux,'[67] the Count d'Olonne, then undergoing on his part a species of exile at Orleans for having suffered his tongue to wag a little too freely at court, says: 'Do not spare any expense to get Champagne wines, even if you are at two hundred leagues from Paris. Those of Burgundy have lost their credit amongst men of taste, and barely retain a remnant of their former reputation amongst dealers. There is no province which furnishes excellent wines for all seasons but Champagne. It supplies us with the wines of Ay, Avenay, and Hautvillers, up to the spring; Taissy, Sillery, Verzenai, for the rest of the year.'[68] 'The wines of the Champagne,' elsewhere remarks this renowned _gourmet_, 'are the best. Do not keep those of Ay too long; do not begin those of Reims too soon. Cold weather preserves the spirit of the River wines, hot removes the _goût de terroir_ from those of the Mountain.' Writing also in 1701, he alludes to the care with which the Sillery wines were made forty years before. Such a distinction of seasons would imply that wine, instead of being kept, was drunk within a few months of its manufacture; though this, except in the case of wine made as 'tocane,' which could not be kept, would appear to be a matter rather of taste than necessity. This custom of drinking it before fermentation was achieved, and also the natural tendency of the wine of this particular region to effervesce--a tendency since taken such signal advantage of by the manufacturers of sparkling Champagne--are treated of in a work of the period,[69] the author of which, after noting the excellence of certain growths of Burgundy, goes on to say that, 'If the vintage in the Champagne is a successful one, it is thither that the shrewd and dainty hasten. There is not,' continues he, 'in the world a drink more noble and more delicious; and it is now become so highly fashionable that, with the exception of those growths drawn from that fertile and agreeable district which we call in general parlance that of Reims, and particularly from St. Thierry, Verzenay, Ay, and different spots of the Mountain, all others are looked upon by the dainty as little better than poor stuff and trash, which they will not even hear spoken of.' He extols the admirable _sève_ of the Reims wine, its delicious flavour, and its perfume, which with ludicrous hyperbole he pronounces capable of bringing the dead to life. Burgundy and Champagne, he says, are both good, but the first rank belongs to the latter, 'when it has not that tartness which some debauchees esteem so highly, when it clears itself promptly, and only works as much as the natural strength of the wine allows; for it does not do to trust so much to that kind of wine which is always in a fury, and boils without intermission in its vessel.' Such wine, he maintains, is quite done for by the time Easter is over, and only retains of its former fire a crude tartness very unpleasant and very indigestible, which is apt to affect the chest of those who drink it. He recommends that Champagne should be drunk at least six months after the end of the year, and that the grayest wines should always be chosen as going down more smoothly and clogging the stomach less, since, however good the red wine may be as regards body, from its longer _cuvaison_, it is never so delicate, nor does it digest so promptly, as the others. He concludes, therefore, that it is better to drink old wine, or at any rate what then passed as old wine, as long as one can, in order not to have to turn too soon to the new ones, 'which are veritable head-splitters, and from their potency capable of deranging the strongest constitutions.' Above all, he urges abstinence from such 'artificial mummeries' as the use of ice, 'the most pernicious of all inventions' and the enemy of wine, though at that time, he admits, very fashionable, especially amongst certain 'obstreperous voluptuaries,' 'who maintain that the wine of Reims is never more delicious than when it is drunk with ice, and that this admirable beverage derives especial charms from this fatal novelty.' Ice, he holds, not only dispels the spirit and diminishes the flavour, _sève_, and colour of the wine, but is most pernicious and deadly to the drinker, causing 'colics, shiverings, horrible convulsions, and sudden weakness, so that frequently death has crowned the most magnificent debauches, and turned a place of joy and mirth into a sepulchre.' Wherefore let all drinkers of Champagne _frappé_ beware. Here we have ample proof of the popularity of the wines of the Champagne, a popularity erroneously said to be due in some measure to the fact that both the Chancellor le Tellier, father of Louvois, and Colbert, the energetic comptroller-general of the state finances, and son of a wool-merchant of Reims, possessed large vineyards in the province.[70] Lafontaine, who was born in the neighbourhood, declared his preference for Reims above all cities, on account of the Sainte Ampoule, its good wine, and the abundance of other charming objects;[71] and Boileau, writing in 1674, depicts an ignorant churchman, whose library consisted of a score of well-filled hogsheads, as being fully aware of the particular vineyard at Reims over which the community he belonged to held a mortgage.[72] James II. of England was particularly partial to the wine of the Champagne. When the quinquennial assembly of the clergy was held in 1700, at the Château of St. Germain-en-Laye, where he was residing, Charles Maurice le Tellier, brother to Louvois and Archbishop of Reims, who presided, 'kept a grand table, and had some Champagne wine that was highly praised. The King of England, who rarely drank any other, heard of it, and sent to ask some of the archbishop, who sent him six bottles. Some time afterwards the king, who found the wine very good, sent to beg him to send some more. The archbishop, more avaricious of his wine than of his money, answered curtly that his wine was not mad, and therefore did not run about the streets, and did not send him any.'[73] Du Chesne, who, when Fagon became medical attendant to Louis XIV., succeeded him as physician to the 'fils de France,' and who died at Versailles in 1707, aged ninety-one, in perfect health, ascribed his longevity to his habit of eating a salad every night at supper, and drinking only Champagne, a _régime_ which he recommended to all.[74] The wine was nevertheless the indirect cause of the death of the poet Santeuil, who, although a canon of St. Victor, was very much fonder of Champagne and of sundry other good things than he ought to have been. A wit and a _bon vivant_, he was a great favourite of the Duc de Bourbon, son of the Prince de Condé, whom he accompanied in the summer of 1697 to Dijon. 'One evening at supper the duke amused himself with plying Santeuil with Champagne, and going on from joke to joke, he thought it funny to empty his snuff-box into a goblet of wine, and make Santeuil drink it, in order to see what would happen. He was pretty soon enlightened. Vomiting and fever ensued, and within forty-eight hours the unhappy wretch died in the torments of the damned, but filled with the sentiments of great penitence, with which he received the sacraments and edified the company, who, though little given to be edified, disapproved of _such a cruel experiment_.'[75] Of course nothing was done, or even said, to the duke. 'Sire,' said the president of a deputation bringing specimens of the various productions of Reims to the Grand Monarque when he visited the city in 1666, 'we offer you our wine, our pears, our gingerbread, our biscuits, and our hearts;' and Louis, who was a noted lover of the good things of this life, answered, turning to his suite, 'There, gentlemen, that is just the kind of speech I like.' To this day Reims manufactures by the myriad the crisp finger-shaped sponge-cakes called 'biscuits de Reims,' which the French delight to dip in their wine; juvenile France still eagerly devours its _pain d'épice_, and the city sends forth far and wide the baked pears which have obtained so enviable a reputation. But the production of such wine as that offered to the king has long since almost ceased, while its fame has been eclipsed tenfold by wine of a far more delicious kind, the origin and rise of which has now to be recounted. This is the sparkling wine of Champagne, which has been fitly compared to one of those younger sons of good family, who, after a brilliant and rapid career, achieve a position far eclipsing that of their elder brethren, whose fame becomes merged in theirs.[76] [Illustration] III. /Invention and Development of Sparkling Champagne./ The ancients acquainted with sparkling wines--Tendency of Champagne wines to effervesce noted at an early period--Obscurity enveloping the discovery of what we now know as sparkling Champagne--The Royal Abbey of Hautvillers--Legend of its foundation by St. Nivard and St. Berchier--Its territorial possessions and vineyards--The monks the great viticulturists of the Middle Ages--Dom Perignon--He marries wines differing in character--His discovery of sparkling white wine--He is the first to use corks to bottles--His secret for clearing the wine revealed only to his successors Frère Philippe and Dom Grossart--Result of Dom Perignon's discoveries--The wine of Hautvillers sold at 1000 livres the queue--Dom Perignon's memorial in the Abbey-Church--Wine flavoured with peaches--The effervescence ascribed to drugs, to the period of the moon, and to the action of the sap in the vine--The fame of sparkling wine rapidly spreads--The Vin de Perignon makes its appearance at the Court of the Grand Monarque--Is welcomed by the young courtiers--It figures at the suppers of Anet and Chantilly, and at the orgies of the Temple and the Palais Royal--The rapturous strophes of Chaulieu and Rousseau--Frederick William I. and the Berlin Academicians--Augustus the Strong and the page who pilfered his Champagne--Horror of the old-fashioned _gourmets_ at the innovation--Bertin du Rocheret and the Marshal d'Artagnan--System of wine-making in the Champagne early in the eighteenth century--Bottling of the wine in flasks--Icing Champagne with the corks loosened. A sybarite of our day has remarked that the life of the ancient Greeks would have approached the perfection of earthly existence had they only been acquainted with sparkling Champagne. As, however, amongst the nations of antiquity the newly-made wine was sometimes allowed to continue its fermentation in close vessels, it may be conceived that when freshly drawn it occasionally possessed a certain degree of briskness from the retained carbonic acid gas.[77] Virgil's expression, 'Ille impiger hausit Spumantem pateram,'[78] demonstrates that the Romans--whose _patera_, by the way, closely resembled the modern champagne-glass--were familiar with frothy and sparkling wines, although they do not seem to have intentionally sought the means of preserving them in this condition.[79] [Illustration] [Illustration] The early vintagers of the Champagne can hardly have helped noting the natural tendency of their wine to effervesce, the difficulty of entirely overcoming which is exemplified in the precautions invariably taken for the production of Sillery sec; indeed tradition claims for certain growths of the Marne, from a period of remote antiquity, a disposition to froth and sparkle.[80] Local writers profess to recognise in the property ascribed by Henry of Andelys to the wine of Chalons, of causing both the stomach and the heels to swell,[81] a reference to this peculiarity.[82] The learned Baccius, physician to Pope Sixtus V., writing at the close of the sixteenth century of the wines of France, mentions those 'which bubble out of the glass, and which flatter the smell as much as the taste,'[83] though he does not refer to any wine of the Champagne by name. An anonymous author, some eighty years later,[84] condemns the growing partiality for the 'great _vert_ which certain debauchees esteem so highly' in Champagne wines, and denounces 'that kind of wine which is always in a fury, and which boils without ceasing in its vessel.' Still he seems to refer to wine in casks, which lost these tumultuous properties after Easter. Necessity being the mother of invention, the inhabitants of the province had in the sixteenth century already devised and put in practice a method of allaying fermentation, and obtaining a settled wine within four-and-twenty hours, by filling a vessel with 'small chips of the wood called in French _sayette_,' and pouring the wine over them.[85] With all this, a conscientious writer candidly acknowledges that, despite minute and painstaking researches, he cannot tell when what is now known as sparkling Champagne first made its appearance. The most ancient references to it of a positive character that he could discover are contained in the poems of Grenan and Coffin, printed in 1711 and 1712; yet its invention certainly dates prior to that epoch,[86] and earlier poets have also praised it. It seems most probable that the tendency to effervescence already noted became even more marked in the strong-bodied gray and 'partridge-eye' wines, first made from red grapes about 1670, than in the yellowish wine previously produced, like that of Ay, from white grapes,[87] and recommended, from its deficiency in body, to be drunk off within the year.[88] These new wines, when in a quasi-effervescent state prior to the month of March, offered a novel attraction to palates dulled by the potent vintages of Burgundy and Southern France;[89] and their reputation quickly spread, though some old _gourmets_ might have complained, with St. Evremond, of the taste introduced by _faux delicats_.[90] They must have been merely _cremant_ wines--for glass-bottle making was in its infancy, and corks as yet unknown[91]--and doubtless resembled the present wines of Condrieu, which sparkle in the glass on being poured out, during their first and second years, but with age acquire the characteristics of a full-bodied still wine. The difficulty of regulating their effervescence in those pre-scientific days must have led to frequent and serious disappointments. The hour, however, came, and with it the man. [Illustration: GATEWAY OF THE ABBEY OF HAUTVILLERS.] [Illustration: THE CHURCH OF HAUTVILLERS, WITH THE REMAINS OF THE ABBEY.] In the year 1670, among the sunny vineyard slopes rising from the poplar-fringed Marne, there stood in all its pride the famous royal Abbey of St. Peter at Hautvillers. Its foundation, of remote antiquity, was hallowed by saintly legend. Tradition said that about the middle of the seventh century St. Nivard, Bishop of Reims, and his godson, St. Berchier, were seeking a suitable spot for the erection of a monastery on the banks of the river. The way was long, the day was warm, and the saints but mortal. Weary and faint, they sat down to rest at a spot identified by tradition with a vineyard at Dizy, to-day belonging to Messrs. Bollinger, but at that time forming part of the forest of the Marne. St. Nivard fell asleep, with his head in St. Berchier's lap, when the one in a dream, and the other with waking eyes, saw a snow-white dove--the same, firm believers in miracles suggested, which had brought down the holy oil for the anointment of Clovis at his coronation at Reims--flutter through the wood, and finally alight afar off on the stump of a tree. Such an omen could no more be neglected by a seventh-century saint than a slate full of scribble by a nineteenth-century spiritualist, and accordingly the site thus miraculously indicated was forthwith decided upon. Plans for the edifice were duly drawn out and approved of, and the abbey rose in stately majesty, the high altar at which St. Berchier was solemnly invested with the symbols of abbatial dignity being erected upon the precise spot occupied by the tree on which the snow-white dove had alighted.[92] As time rolled on and pious donations poured in, the abbey waxed in importance, although it was sacked by the Normans when they ravaged the Champagne, and was twice destroyed by fire--once in 1098, and again in 1440--when each time it rose ph[oe]nix-like from its ashes. [Illustration] [Illustration] In 1670 the abbey was, as we have said, in all its glory. True, it had been somewhat damaged a century previously by the Huguenots, who had fired the church, driven out the monks, sacked the wine-cellars, burnt the archives, and committed sundry other depredations inherent to civil and religious warfare; but the liberal contributions of the faithful, including Queen Marie de Medicis, had helped to efface all traces of their visit. The abbey boasted many precious relics rescued from the Reformers' fury, the most important being the body of St. Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, which had been in its possession since 844, and attracted numerous pilgrims. The hierarchical status of the abbey was high; for no less than nine archbishops had passed forth through its stately portal to the see of Reims, and twenty-two abbots, including the venerable Peter of Cluny, to various distinguished monasteries. Its territorial possessions were extensive; for its abbot was lord of Hautvillers, Cumières, Cormoyeux, Bomery, and Dizy la Rivière, and had all manner of rights of _fourmage_, and _huchage_, _vinage_, and _pressoir banal_, and the like,[93] to the benefit of the monks and the misfortune of their numerous dependents. Its revenues were ample, and no small portion was derived from the tithes of fair and fertile vinelands extending for miles around, and from the vineyards which the monks themselves cultivated in the immediate neighbourhood of the abbey. [Illustration] It should be remembered that for a lengthy period--not only in France, but in other countries--the choicest wines were those produced in vineyards belonging to the Church, and that the _vinum theologium_ was justly held superior to all others. The rich chapters and monasteries were more studious of the quality than of the quantity of their vintages; their land was tilled with particular care, and the learning, of which in the Middle Ages they were almost the sole depositaries, combined with opportunities of observation enjoyed by the members of these fraternities by reason of their retired pursuits, made them acquainted at a very early period with the best methods of controlling the fermentation of the grape and ameliorating its produce.[94] To the monks of Bèze we owe Chambertin, the favourite wine of the first Napoleon; to the Cistercians of Citaulx the perfection of that Clos Vougeot which passing regiments saluted _tambour battant_; and the Benedictines of Hautvillers were equally regardful of the renown of their wines and vineyards. In 1636 they cultivated one hundred arpents themselves,[95] their possessions including the vineyards now known as Les Quartiers and Les Prières at Hautvillers, and Les Barillets, Sainte Hélène, and Cotes-à-bras at Cumières, the last named of which still retains a high reputation. [Illustration] Over these vineyards there presided in 1670 a worthy Benedictine named Dom Perignon, who was destined to gain for the abbey a more world-wide fame than the devoutest of its monks or the proudest of its abbots. His position was an onerous one, for the reputation of the wine was considerable, and it was necessary to maintain it. Henry of Andelys had sung its praises as early as the thirteenth century; and St. Evremond, though absent from France for nearly half a score years, wrote of it in terms proving that he had preserved a lively recollection of its merits. Dom Perignon was born at Sainte Ménehould in 1638, and had been elected to the post of procureur of the abbey about 1668, on account of the purity of his taste and the soundness of his head. He proved himself fully equal to the momentous task, devotion to which does not seem to have shortened his days, since he died at the ripe old age of seventy-seven. It was Dom Perignon's duty to superintend the abbey vineyards, supervise the making of the wine, and see after the tithes, paid either in wine or grapes[96] by the neighbouring cultivators to their seignorial lord the abbot. The wine which thus came into his charge was naturally of various qualities; and having noted that one kind of soil imparted fragrance and another generosity, while the produce of others was deficient in both of these attributes, Dom Perignon, in the spirit of a true Benedictine, hit upon the happy idea of 'marrying,' or blending, the produce of different vineyards together,[97] a practice which is to-day very generally followed by the manufacturers of Champagne. Such was the perfection of Dom Perignon's skill and the delicacy of his palate, that in his later years, when blind from age, he used to have the grapes of the different districts brought to him, and, recognising each kind by its flavour, would say, 'You must marry the wine of this vineyard with that of such another.'[98] [Illustration] But the crowning glory of the Benedictine's long and useful life remains to be told. He succeeded in obtaining for the first time in the Champagne a perfectly white wine from black grapes, that hitherto made having been gray, or of a pale-straw colour.[99] Moreover, by some happy accident, or by a series of experimental researches--for the exact facts of the discovery are lost for ever--he hit upon a method of regulating the tendency of the wines of this region to effervesce, and by paying regard to the epoch of bottling, finally succeeded in producing a perfectly sparkling wine, that burst forth from the bottle and overflowed the glass, and was twice as dainty to the palate, and twice as exhilarating in its effects, as the ordinary wine of the Champagne. A correlative result of his investigations was the present system of corking bottles, a wisp of tow dipped in oil being the sole stopper in use prior to his time.[100] To him, too, we owe not only sparkling Champagne itself, but the proper kind of glass to drink it out of. The tall, thin, tapering _flute_ was adopted, if not invented, by him, in order, as he said, that he might watch the dance of the sparkling atoms.[101] The exact date of Dom Perignon's discovery of sparkling wine seems to be wrapped in much the same obscurity as are the various attendant circumstances. It was certainly prior to the close of the seventeenth century; as the author of an anonymous treatise, printed at Reims in 1718, remarked that for more than twenty years past the taste of the French had inclined towards sparkling wines, which they had 'frantically adored,' though during the last three years they had grown a little out of conceit with them.[102] This would place it at 1697, at the latest. [Illustration] To Dom Perignon the abbey's well-stocked cellar was a far cheerfuller place than the cell. Nothing delighted him more than 'To come down among this brotherhood Dwelling for ever underground, Silent, contemplative, round, and sound; Each one old and brown with mould, But filled to the lips with the ardour of youth, With the latent power and love of truth, And with virtues fervent and manifold.' Ever busy among his vats and presses, barrels and bottles, Perignon found out a method of clearing wine, so as to preserve it perfectly limpid and free from all deposit, without being obliged, like all who sought to rival him in its production, to _dépoter_ the bottles--that is, to decant their contents into fresh ones.[103] This secret, which helped to maintain the high reputation of the wine of Hautvillers when the manufacture of sparkling Champagne had extended throughout the district, he guarded even better than he was able to guard the apple of his eye. At his death, in 1715, he revealed it only to his successor, Frère Philippe, who, after holding sway over vat and vineyard for fifty years, died in 1765, imparting it with his latest breath to Frère André Lemaire. Revoked perforce from his functions by the French Revolution, he in turn, before his death about 1795, communicated it to Dom Grossart, who exults over the fact that whilst the greatest Champagne merchants were obliged to _dépoter_, the monks of Hautvillers had never done so.[104] Dom Grossart, who had counted the Moëts amongst his customers, died in his turn without making any sign, so that the secret of Perignon perished with him. Prior to that event, however, the present system of _dégorgeage_ was discovered, and eventually _dépotage_ was no longer practised.[105] The material result of Dom Perignon's labours was such that one of the presses of the abbey bore this inscription: 'M. de Fourville, abbot of this abbey, had me constructed in the year 1694, and that same year sold his wine at a thousand livres the queue.'[106] Their moral effect was so complete that his name became identified with the wine of the abbey. People asked for the wine of Perignon, till they forgot that he was a man and not a vineyard,[107] and within a year of his death his name figures amongst a list of the wine-producing slopes of the Champagne.[108] His reputation has outlasted the walls within which he carried on his labours, and his merits are thus recorded, in conventual Latin of the period, on a black-marble slab still to be seen within the altar-steps of the abbey-church of Hautvillers.[109] [Illustration: D . O . M . HIC JACET DOM. PETRUS PERIGNON HUJUS MÑRII PER ANNOS QUADGINTA SEPTEM CELLERARIUS QUI RE FAMILLIARI SUMMA CUM LAUDE ADMINISTRATA VIRTUTIBUS PLENUS PATERNO QUE JMPRIMIS IN PAUPERIS AMORE OBIIT ÆTATIS 77^o. ANNO 1715 REQUISCAT IN PACE AMEN] The anonymous _Mémoire_ of 1718 gives, with an amount of preliminary flourish which would imply a doubt as to the accuracy of the statement made, the secret mode said to have been employed by Dom Perignon to improve his wine, and to have been confided by him a few days before his death to 'a person worthy enough of belief,' by whom it was in turn communicated to the writer. According to this, a pound of sugar-candy was dissolved in a _chopine_ of wine, to which was then added five or six stoned peaches, four sous' worth of powdered cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, and a _demi septier_ of burnt brandy; and the whole, after being well mixed, was strained through fine linen into a _pièce_ of wine immediately after fermentation had ceased, with the result of imparting to it a dainty and delicate flavour. Dom Grossart, however, in his letter to M. Dherbès, distinctly declares that 'we never did put sugar into our wine.'[110] This _collature_, in which peaches play a part, was probably made use of by some wine-growers; and the peach-like flavour extolled by St. Evremond in the wine of Ay may have been due to it, or to the practice then and long afterwards followed of putting peach-leaves in the hot water with which the barrels were washed out, under the idea that this improved the flavour of the wine.[111] Opinions were widely divided as to the cause of the effervescence in the wines of Hautvillers, for the connection between sugar and fermentation was then undreamt of, although Van Helmont had recognised the existence of carbonic acid gas in fermenting wine as early as 1624. Some thought it due to the addition of drugs, and sought to obtain it by putting not only alum and spirits of wine, but positive nastinesses, into their wine.[112] Others ascribed it to the greenness of the wine, because most of that which effervesced was extremely raw; and others again believed that it was influenced by the age of the moon at the epoch of bottling. Experience undoubtedly showed that wine bottled between the vintage and the month of May was certain to effervesce, and that no time was more favourable for this operation than the end of the second quarter of the moon of March. Nevertheless, as the wines, especially those of the Mountain of Reims, were not usually matured at this epoch, it was recommended, in order to secure a ripe and exquisite sparkling wine, to defer the bottling until the ascent of the sap in the vine between the tenth and fourteenth day of the moon of August; whereas, to insure a _non mousseux_ wine, the bottling ought to take place in October or November.[113] The fame of the new wine, known indifferently as _vin de Perignon_, _flacon pétillant_, _flacon mousseux_, _vin sautant_, _vin mousseux_, _saute bouchon_, &c., and even anathematised as _vin du diable_--for the present term, _vin de Champagne_, was confined as yet to the still or quasi-still growths--quickly spread. Never, indeed, was a discovery more opportune. At the moment of its introduction the glory of France was on the wane; Colbert, Louvois, and Luxembourg were dead; the Treaty of Ryswick had been signed; famine and deficit reared their threatening heads, and lo, Providence offered this new consolation for all outward and inward ills. With the King it could only find scant favour. The once brilliant Louis was now a bigoted and almost isolated invalid. His debilitated stomach, ruined by long indulgence, could scarcely even support the old Burgundy--so old that it was almost tasteless--which Fagon had prescribed as his sole beverage some years before;[114] and the popping of sparkling Champagne corks would have scandalised the quiet _tête-à-tête_ repasts which he was wont to partake of with the pious Madame de Maintenon.[115] [Illustration] [Illustration] But the men who were to be the future _roués_ of the Regency were in the flower of youthful manhood in 1698, and the recommendation of Comus had with them more weight than the warnings of Æsculapius. At the joyous suppers of Anet, where the Duc de Vendôme laid aside the laurels of Mars to wreathe his brows with the ivy of Bacchus; at the Temple, where his brother, the Grand Prior, nightly revived the most scandalous features of the orgies of ancient Rome; at the Palais Royal, where the future Regent was inaugurating that long series of _petits soupers_ which were ultimately to cost the lives of himself and his favourite daughter; and at Chantilly, where the Prince de Conti sought successfully to reproduce a younger and brighter Versailles, the pear-shaped flasks, 'ten inches high, including the four or five of the neck,'[116] stamped with the arms of the noble hosts, and secured with Spanish wax,[117] were an indispensable adjunct to the festivities of the table. A story is told of the Marquis de Sillery, who had turned his sword into a pruning-knife, and applied himself to the cultivation of the paternal vineyards, having first introduced the sparkling wine bearing his name at one of the Anet suppers, when, at a given signal, a dozen of blooming young damsels, scantily draped in the guise of Bacchanals, entered the room, bearing apparently baskets of flowers in their hands, but which, on being placed before the guests, proved to be flower-enwreathed bottles of the new sparkling wine.[118] If ever a beverage was intended for the pleasures of society, it was certainly this one, which it was said Nature had made especially for the French,[119] who found in its discovery a compensation for the victories of Marlborough. Chaulieu, the poetic abbé, and the favourite of both the Vendômes, hailed this new product of his native province in rapturous strophes. In an invitation to supper addressed to his friend, the Marquis de la Fare, in 1701, he describes how 'Of fivescore clear glasses the number and brightness Make up for of dishes the absence and lightness, And the foam, sparkling pure, Of fresh delicate wine For Fortune's frail lure Blots out all regret in this memory of mine.'[120] In a letter to St. Evremond, he mentions sundry wonderful things that should happen 'if the Muses were as fond of the wine of Champagne as the poet who writes this to you;' and, in one to the Marquis de Dangeau, jestingly remarks that 'St. Maur's harsher muse All flight will refuse, Unless you sustain Her wings with Champagne.'[121] Replying to an invitation to Sonning's house at Neuilly on July 20, 1707, he says that when he comes it will be wonderful to see how the Champagne will be drained from the tall glasses known as _flutes_.[122] That the Champagne he extols was a sparkling wine is established in a poetical epistle to Madame D., in answer to her complaint that the wine he had sent her did not froth as when they supped together, and in this he also speaks of its newness. His brother-rhymster, Jean Baptiste Rousseau, who must not be confounded with the philosophic Jean Jacques, invited Chaulieu to join him at Neuilly, in mingling the water of Hippocrene with the wine of Hautvillers,[123] and announced to the Champagne-loving Marquis d'Ussé, _apropos_ of the latter's favourite source of inspiration, that even 'Ph[oe]bus will no more go climbing For water up Helicon's mount, But admit, as a source of good rhyming, Champagne excels Hippocrene's fount.'[124] Such general attention did the subject attract that Frederick William II. of Prussia actually proposed to the Academy of Arts and Sciences at Berlin the question, 'Why does Champagne foam?' for solution. The Academicians, with unexpected sharpness, petitioned the King for a supply of the beverage in question on which to experiment. But the parsimonious monarch was equal to the occasion, and a solitary dozen of the wine was all he would consent to furnish them with. His ally, Augustus the Strong of Saxony, was the hero of a ludicrous adventure connected with sparkling Champagne. At a banquet given to him at Dresden, a page, who had surreptitiously appropriated a bottle of this costly beverage, and hidden it in the breast of his coat, had to approach the King. The heat and motion combined had imparted briskness to the wine, out popped the cork, and the embroidered garments and flowing periwig of Mr. Carlyle's 'Man of Sin' were drenched with the foaming liquid. The page fell on his knees and roared for mercy, and the King, as soon as he recovered from his bursts of laughter, freely forgave him his offence. The success of Dom Perignon's wine caused a revolution in the wine-production of the province, and gave rise to numerous imitations, despite the outcry raised against sparkling wine by many _gourmets_, and even by the wine-merchants themselves, who complained that they had to pander to what they regarded as a depraved taste. The elder Bertin du Rocheret, father of the _lieutenant criminel_ and a notable dealer in wine, was much opposed to it.[125] Marshal de Montesquiou d'Artagnan, the gallant assailant of Denain, had ordered some wine of him, and he writes in reply, on November 11, 1711: 'I have chosen three poinçons of the best wine of Pierry at 400 francs the queue, not to be drawn off as _mousseux_--that would be too great a pity. Also a poinçon to be drawn off as _mousseux_ at 250 francs the queue; or, if you will only go as far as 180 francs, it will froth just as well, or better. Also a poinçon of _tocane_ of Ay to be drunk this winter--that is to say, it should be drunk by Shrovetide--at 300 francs the queue: this wine is very fine.'[126] On the 27th December 1712 the Marshal writes: 'With regard to my wine being made _mousseux_, many prefer that it should be so; and I should not be vexed, provided it does not in any way depreciate its quality.' On the 18th October of the following year the stern _laudator temporis acti_ describes how the bottling has been carried out, 'in order that your wines might be _mousseux_, without which I should not have done it, and perhaps you would have found it better, but it would not have had the merit of being _mousseux_, which in my opinion is the merit of a poor wine, and only proper to beer, chocolate, and whipped cream. Good Champagne should be clear and fine, should sparkle in the glass, and should flatter the palate, as it never does when it is _mousseux_, but has a smack of fermentation; hence it is only _mousseux_ because it is working.' The converted Marshal replies on October 25th: 'I was in the wrong to ask you to bottle my wine so that it might be _mousseux_; it is a fashion that prevails everywhere, especially amongst young people. For my own part, I care very little about it; but I wish the wine to be clear and fine, and to have a strong Champagne bouquet.' In the following December Bertin, in answer to the Marshal's request for three quartaux of wine, says: 'Will you kindly let me know at what date you propose to drink this wine? If it is to be drunk as _mousseux_, I shall not agree with you.' The allusion to the time of year at which the wine was to be drunk throws a light upon a practice of the day, confirmed by other passages in this correspondence. Much of the wine made was drunk as _vin bourru_ fined, but not racked off, at the beginning of the year, or as _tocane_, which was apt to go off if kept beyond Shrovetide. This speedy consumption and the careful choice made of the grapes intended for _vin mousseux_ militated against the formation in the bottles of that deposit, which, up to the commencement of the present century, when the system of _dégorgeage_ was introduced, could only be remedied by _dépotage_,[127] though, as we have seen, the Abbey of Hautvillers had a secret method, carefully guarded, of checking its formation.[128] It is singular that the presence of a natural _liqueur_--the consequence of a complete but not excessive ripeness of the grape, and at present considered one of the highest qualities of the wine--was, at the commencement of the eighteenth century, regarded as a disease. The _Mémoire_ of 1718 states that when the wine has any liqueur, however good it may otherwise be, it is not esteemed, and recommends the owner to get rid of this 'bad quality' forthwith by putting a pint of new milk warm from the cow into each _pièce_, stirring it well, letting it rest three days, and then racking the wine off. At this epoch the wine of the Champagne seems to have been preferred perfectly dry.[129] In June 1716 the Marshal d'Artagnan reproached Bertin du Rocheret for sending him Hautvillers wine of the preceding vintage which had turned out _liquoreuse_. However, in August he felt forced to write that it had become excellent, and similar experiences seem to have soon removed all prejudices against this liqueur character. Bertin, in 1725, speaks of it as one of the qualities of wine, and charges for it in proportion; and six years later remarks that the English are as mad for liqueur and colour in their wines as the French.[130] [Illustration] [Illustration] IV. /The Battle of the Wines./ Temporary check to the popularity of Sparkling Champagne--Doctors disagree--The champions of Champagne and Burgundy--Péna and his patient--A young Burgundian student attacks the Wine of Reims--The Faculty of Reims in arms--A local Old Parr cited as an example in favour of the Wines of the Champagne--Salins of Beaune and Le Pescheur of Reims engage warmly in the dispute--A pelting with pamphlets--Burgundy sounds a war-note--The Sapphics of Benigné Grenan--An asp beneath the flowers--The gauntlet picked up--Carols from a Coffin--Champagne extolled as superior to all other wines--It inspires the heart and stirs the brain--The apotheosis of Champagne foam--Burgundy, an invalid, seeks a prescription--Impartially appreciative drinkers of both wines--Bold Burgundian and stout Rémois, each a jolly tippling fellow--Canon Maucroix's parallel between Burgundy and Demosthenes and Champagne and Cicero--Champagne a panacea for gout and stone--Final decision in favour of Champagne by the medical faculty of Paris--Pluche's opinion on the controversy--Champagne a lively wit and Burgundy a solid understanding--Champagne commands double the price of the best Burgundy--Zealots reconciled at table. By a strange fatality the popularity of the sparkling wine of the Champagne, which had helped to dissipate the gloom hanging over court and capital during the last twenty years of the reign of Louis Quatorze,[131] began to wane the year preceding that monarch's death.[132] Dom Perignon too, as though stricken to the heart by this, forthwith drooped and died. The inhabitants of the province once more turned their attention to their red wines, which continued to enjoy a high reputation during the first half of the century,[133] despite the sweeping assertion that they were somewhat dry, rather flat, and possessed a strong flinty flavour,[134] the _goût de terroir_ alluded to by St. Evremond. [Illustration] These red wines were not only sent to Paris in large quantities by way of the Marne,[135] but commanded an important export trade, those of the Mountain, which were better able to bear the journey than the growths of the River, gracing the best-appointed tables of London, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, and the North,[136] and especially of Flanders, where they were usually sold as Burgundy.[137] It must not be lost sight of that the yield of white sparkling wine from the _crûs d'élite_ was for a long time comparatively small, especially when contrasted with that of to-day.[138] At a later period the manufacture of _vin mousseux_ increased, notably in the districts south of the Marne,[139] and drove out almost entirely the still red wine; the place of the latter being supplied, as regards Holland, Belgium, and Northern France, by the growths of Bordeaux, which were found to keep better in damp climates.[140] [Illustration] One cause of this falling off in the popularity of the sparkling wine arose from the great battle which raged for many years respecting the relative merits of Champagne and Burgundy. It was waged in the schools, and not in the field; for the combatants were neither dashing soldiers, brilliant courtiers, nor even gay young students, but potent, grave, and reverend physicians--the wigged, capped, and gowned pedants of the Diaphorus type whom Molière so piteously pilloried. The only blood shed was that of the grape, excepting when some enthusiastic Sangrado was impelled by a too conscientious practical examination into the qualities of the vintage he championed to a more than ordinary reckless use of the lancet. The contending armies couched pens instead of lances, and marshalled arguments in array in place of squadrons. They hurled pamphlets and theses at each others' heads in lieu of bombshells, and kept up withal a running fire of versification, so that the rumble of hexameters replaced that of artillery. [Illustration] National pride, and perhaps a smack of envy at the growing popularity of the still red wines of the Champagne, had, as far back as 1652, led a hot-headed young Burgundian, one Daniel Arbinet, to select as the subject of a thesis, maintained by him before the schools of Paris, the proposition that the wine of Beaune was more delicious and more wholesome than any other wine,[141] the remaining vintages of the universe being pretty roughly handled in the thesis in question. The Champenois contented themselves for the time being with cultivating their vineyards and improving their wines, till in 1677, when these latter had acquired yet more renown, M. de Révélois of Reims boldly rushed into print with the assertion that the wine of Reims was the most wholesome of all.[142] Though the first to write in its favour, he was not the first doctor of eminence who had expressed an opinion favourable to the wine of Champagne. Péna, a leading Parisian physician of the seventeenth century, was once consulted by a stranger. 'Where do you come from?' he inquired. 'I am a native of Saumur.' 'A native of Saumur. What bread do you eat?' 'Bread from the Belle Cave.' 'A native of Saumur, and you eat bread from the Belle Cave. What meat do you get?' 'Mutton fed at Chardonnet.' 'A native of Saumur, eating bread from the Belle Cave and mutton fed at Chardonnet. What wine do you drink?' 'Wine from the Côteaux.'[143] 'What! You are a native of Saumur; you eat bread from the Belle Cave, and mutton fed at Chardonnet, and drink the wine of the Côteaux, and you come here to consult me! Go along; there can be nothing the matter with you!'[144] Burgundy remained silent in turn for nearly twenty years, when, lo, in 1696--probably just about the time when the popping of Dom Perignon's corks began to make some noise in the world--a yet more opinionated young champion of the Côte d'Or, Mathieu Fournier, a medical student, hard pressed for the subject of his inaugural thesis, and in the firm faith that 'None but a clever dialectician Can hope to become a good physician, And that logic plays an important part In the mystery of the healing art,' propounded the theory that the wines of Reims irritated the nerves, and caused a predisposition to catarrh, gout, and other disorders, owing to which Fagon, the King's physician, had forbidden them to his royal master.[145] [Illustration: LOUIS XIV. (From a portrait of the time).] Shocked at these scandalous assertions, the entire Faculty of Medicine at the Reims University rose in arms in defence of their native vintage. Its periwigged professors put their learned heads together to discuss the all-important question, 'Is the wine of Reims more agreeable and more wholesome than the wine of Burgundy?' and in 1700 Giles Culotteau embodied their combined opinions in a pamphlet published under that title.[146] After extolling the liquid purity, the excellent brightness, the divine flavour, the paradisiacal perfume, and the great durability of the wines of Ay, Pierry, Verzy, Sillery, Hautvillers, &c., as superior to those of any growth of Burgundy, he instanced the case of a local Old Parr named Pierre Pieton, a _vigneron_ of Hautvillers, who had married at the age of 110, and reached that of 118 without infirmity, as a convincing proof of the material advantages reaped from their consumption. [Illustration] [Illustration: ANCIENT TOWER OF REIMS UNIVERSITY.] Salins, the _doyen_ of the Faculty of Medicine of Beaune, was intrusted with the task of replying, and in 1704 bitterly assailed Culotteau's thesis in a 'Defence of the Wine of Burgundy against the Wine of Champagne,' which ran to five editions in four years. M. le Pescheur, a doctor of Reims, vigorously attacked each of these editions in succession, maintaining amongst other things that the wine of Reims owed its renown to the many virtues discovered in it by the great lords who had accompanied Louis XIV. to his coronation; and that if the King, on the advice of his doctors, had renounced its use, his courtiers had certainly not. He also asserted that England, Germany, and the North of Europe consumed far more Champagne than they did Burgundy, and that it would be transported without risk to the end of the world, Tavernier having taken it to Persia, and another traveller to Siam and Surinam. [Illustration] [Illustration] The partisanship quickly spread throughout the country, and the respective admirers of Burgundy and Champagne pitilessly pelted each other in prose and verse; for the two camps had their troubadours, who, like those of old, excited the courage and ardour of the combatants. The first to sound the warlike trumpet was Benigné Grenan, professor at the college of Harcourt, who, with the rich vintage of his native province bubbling at fever-heat through his veins, sought in 1711 to crush Champagne by means of Latin sapphics, a sample of which has been thus translated: 'Lift to the skies thy foaming wine, That cheers the heart, that charms the eye; Exalt its fragrance, gift divine, Champagne, from thee the wise must fly! A poison lurks those charms below, An asp beneath the flowers is hid; In vain thy sparkling fountains flow When wisdom has their lymph forbid. 'Tis, but when cloyed with purer fair We can with such a traitress flirt; So following Beaune with reverent air, Let Reims appear but at dessert.'[147] The gauntlet thus contemptuously thrown down was promptly and indignantly picked up by the Rector of the University of Beauvais, the learned Dr. Charles Coffin, a native of Buzancy, near Reims, who in the quiet retirement of the Picardian _Alma Mater_ had evidently not forgotten to keep up his acquaintance with the vintage of his native province. The Latin poem he produced in reply, under the title of _Campania vindicata_,[148] had nothing in common with his lugubriously sepulchral name, as may be seen by the following somewhat freely translated extracts from it. After invoking the aid of a bottle of the enlivening liquor whose praises he is about to sing, he exclaims: 'As the vine, although lowly in aspect, outshines The stateliest trees by the produce it bears, So midst all earth's list of rich generous wines, Our Reims the bright crown of preëminence wears. The Massica, erst sang by Horace of old, To Sillery now must abandon the field; Falernian, nor Chian, could ne'er be so bold To rival the nectar Ay's sunny slopes yield. As bright as the goblet it sparklingly fills With diamonds in fusion, it foaming exhales An odour ambrosial, the nostril that thrills, Foretelling the flavour delicious it veils. At first with false fury the foam-bells arise, And creamily bubbling spread over the brim, Till equally swiftly their petulance dies In a purity that makes e'en crystal seem dim.'[149] [Illustration] Praising the flavour of this nectar, which he declares is in every way worthy of its appearance, he stoutly defends the wine from the charge of unwholesomeness adduced against it by Grenan: 'Despite the tongue of malice, No poison in thy chalice Was ever found, Champagne! Simplicity most loyal Was e'er thy boast right royal, And this thy wines retain. No harm lurks in the fire That helps thee to inspire The heart and spur the brain.'[150] [Illustration] So far from causing inconvenience, he claims for Champagne the property of keeping off both gout and gravel, neither of which, he says, is known in Reims and its neighbourhood, and continues: 'When on the fruit-piled board, Thy cups, with nectar stored, Commence their genial reign, The wisest, sternest faces Of mirth display the traces, And to rejoice are fain. As laughter's silv'ry ripple Greets every glass we tipple. Away fly grief and pain.'[151] The jovial old rector with the sepulchral appellation then proceeds, according to the most approved method of warfare, to carry the campaign into the enemy's territory. He admits the nutritive and strengthening properties of Burgundy, but demands what it possesses beyond these, which are shared in common with it by many other vintages. He then prophesies, with the return of peace,[152] the advent of the English to buy the wine of Reims; and concludes by wishing that all who dispute the merits of Champagne may find nothing to drink but the sour cider of Normandy or the acrid vintage of Ivri. The citizens of Reims, thoroughly alive to the importance of the controversy, were enchanted with this production; they did not, however, crown the poet with laurel, but more wisely and appropriately despatched to him four dozen of their best red and gray wines, by the aid of which he continued to tipple and to sing. Grenan, resuming the offensive in turn, at once addressed an epistle in Latin verse, in favour of Burgundy against Champagne, to Fagon, the King's physician.[153] Complaining that the latter wine lays claim unjustly to the first rank, he allows it certain qualities--brilliancy, purity, limpidity, a subtle savour that touches the most blunted palate, and an aroma so delicious that it is impossible to resist its attractions. But he objects to its pretensions. 'Its vinous flood, with swelling pride In foaming wavelets welling up, Pours forth its bright and sparkling tide, Bubbling and glittering in the cup.'[154] He goes on to accuse the Champenois poet of being unduly inspired by this wine, the effects of which he finds apparent in his inflated style and his attempts to place Champagne in the first rank, and make all other vintages its subjects; and he reiterates his allegations that, unlike Burgundy, it affects both the head and the stomach, and is bound to produce gout and gravel in its systematic imbibers. He concludes by begging Fagon to pronounce in his favour, as having proved the virtues of Burgundy on the King himself, whose strength had been sustained by it. The retort was sharp and to the point, taking the form of a twofold epigram from an anonymous hand: 'To the doctor to go On behalf of your wine Is, as far as I know, Of its sickness a sign. Your cause and your wine Must be equally weak, Since to check their decline A prescription you seek.'[155] Nor was the poet of the funereal cognomen backward in stepping into the field; for he published a metrical decree, supposed to be issued by the faculty of the island of Cos in the fourth year of the ninety-first Olympiad,[156] in which, though a verdict is nominally given in favour of Burgundy, Grenan's pleas on behalf of this wine are treated with withering sarcasm. But whilst these enthusiastic partisans thus belaboured one another, there were not wanting impartial spirits who could recognise that there were merits on both sides. Bellechaume, in an ode jointly addressed to the two combatants,[157] adjures them to live at peace on Parnassus, and, remembering that Horace praised both Falernian and Massica, to jointly animate their muse with Champagne and Burgundy: 'To learn the difference between The wine of Reims and that of Beaune, The fairest plan would be, I ween, To drink them both, not one alone.'[158] Another equally judicious versifier called also on the Burgundian champion[159] to cease the futile contest, since 'Bold Burgundian ever glories With stout Remois to get mellow; Each well filled with vinous lore is Each a jolly tippling fellow.'[160] And the learned Canon Maucroix of Reims exhibited a similar conciliatory spirit in the ingenious parallel which he drew between the two greatest orators of antiquity and the wines of the Marne and the Côte d'Or. 'In the wine of Burgundy,' he observes, 'there is more strength and vigour; it does not play with its man so much, it overthrows him more suddenly,--that is Demosthenes. The wine of Champagne is subtler and more delicate; it amuses more and for a longer time, but in the end it does not produce less effect,--that is Cicero.'[161] [Illustration: REMAINS OF THE GATE OF BACCHUS, NEAR REIMS UNIVERSITY.] The national disasters which marked the close of the reign of Louis XIV. diverted public attention in some degree from the nugatory contest;[162] and though Fontenelle sought to prove that a glass of Champagne was better than a bottle of Burgundy,[163] the impartially appreciative agreed with Panard that 'Old Burgundy and young Champagne At table boast an equal reign.'[164] But the doctors continued to disagree, and new generations of them still went on wrangling over the vexed questions of supremacy and salubrity. In 1739 Jean François carried the war into the enemy's camp by maintaining at Paris that Burgundy caused gout; and a little later Robert Linguet declared the wine of Reims to be as healthy as it was agreeable. In 1777 Xavier, Regent of the Faculty of Medicine at the Reims University, affirmed that not only did the once vilified _vin mousseux_ share with the other wines of the Champagne the absence of the tartarous particles which in many red wines are productive of gout and gravel, but that the gas it contained caused it to act as a dissolvent upon stone in the human body, and was also invaluable, from its antiseptic qualities, in treating putrid fevers.[165] Further, the appropriately named Champagne Dufresnay established, to his own satisfaction and that of his colleagues, that the wine was superior to any other growth, native or foreign.[166] At length, in 1778, when the bones of the original disputants were dust, and their lancets rust, on the occasion of a thesis being defended before the Faculty of Medicine of Paris, a verdict was formally pronounced by this body in favour of the wine of the Champagne.[167] [Illustration] [Illustration] V. /Progress and Popularity of Sparkling Champagne./ Sparkling Champagne intoxicates the Regent d'Orléans and the _roués_ of the Palais Royal--It is drunk by Peter the Great at Reims--A horse trained on Champagne and biscuits--Decree of Louis XV. regarding the transport of Champagne--Wine for the _petits cabinets du Roi_--The _petits soupers_ and Champagne orgies of the royal household--A bibulous royal mistress--The Well-Beloved at Reims--Frederick the Great, George II., Stanislas Leczinski, and Marshal Saxe all drink Champagne--Voltaire sings the praises of the effervescing wine of Ay--The Commander Descartes and Lebatteux extol the charms of sparkling Champagne--Bertin du Rocheret and his balsamic molecules--The Bacchanalian poet Panard chants the inspiring effects of the vintages of the Marne--Marmontel is jointly inspired by Mademoiselle de Navarre and the wine of Avenay--The Abbé de l'Attaignant and his fair hostesses--Breakages of bottles in the manufacturers' cellars--Attempts to obviate them--The early sparkling wines merely _crémant_--_Saute bouchon_ and _demi-mousseux_--Prices of Champagne in the eighteenth century--Preference given to light acid wines for sparkling Champagne--Lingering relics of prejudice against _vin mousseux_--The secret addition of sugar--Originally the wine not cleared in bottle--Its transfer to other bottles necessary--Adoption of the present method of ridding the wine of its deposit--The vine-cultivators the last to profit by the popularity of sparkling Champagne--Marie Antoinette welcomed to Reims--Reception and coronation of Louis XVI. at Reims--'The crown, it hurts me!'--Oppressive dues and tithes of the _ancien régime_--The Fermiers Généraux and their hôtel at Reims--Champagne under the Revolution--Napoleon at Epernay--Champagne included in the equipment of his satraps--The Allies in the Champagne--Drunkenness and pillaging--Appreciation of Champagne by the invading troops--The beneficial results which followed--Universal popularity of Champagne--The wine a favourite with kings and potentates--Its traces to be met with everywhere. [Illustration] Whilst doctors went on shaking their periwigged heads, and debating whether sparkling Champagne did or did not injure the nerves and produce gout, the timid might hearken to their counsels, but there were plenty of spirits bold enough to let the corks pop gaily, regardless of all consequences. The wine continued in high favour with the _viveurs_ of the capital, and especially with the brilliant band of titled scoundrels who formed the Court of Philippe le Débonnaire. 'When my son gets drunk,' wrote, on the 13th August 1716, the Princess Charlotte Elizabeth of Bavaria, the Regent's mother, 'it is not with strong drinks or spirituous liquors, but pure wine of Champagne;'[168] and as the pupil of the Abbé Dubois very seldom went to bed sober,[169] he must have consumed a fair amount of the fluid in question in the course of his career. Even his boon companion, the Duke de Richelieu, is forced to admit that there was a great deal more drunkenness about him than was becoming in a Regent of France; and that, as he could not support wine so well as his guests, he often rose from the table drunk, or with his wits wool-gathering. 'Two bottles of Champagne,' remarks the duke in his _Chronique_, 'had this effect upon him.' Desirous, seemingly, that such enjoyments should not be confined to himself alone, he abolished in 1719 sundry dues on wine in general, whilst his famous, or rather infamous, suppers conduced to the vogue of that sparkling Champagne which was an indispensable accompaniment of those _décolleté_ repasts. It unloosed the tongues and waistcoats of the _roués_ of the Palais Royal, the Nocés, Broglios, Birons, Brancas, and Canillacs; it lent an additional sparkle to the bright eyes of Mesdames de Parabère and de Sabran, and inspired the scathing remark from the lips of one of those fair frail ones, that 'God, after having made man, took up a little mud, and used it to form the souls of princes and lackeys.' It played its part, too, at the memorable repast at which the Regent and his favourite daughter so scandalised their hostess, the Duchess of Burgundy, and at the fatal orgie shared by the same pair on the terrace of Meudon. [Illustration: THE REGENT D'ORLÉANS (From the picture by Santerre).] The example set in such high quarters could not fail to be followed. Champagne fired the sallies of the wits and versifiers whom the Duchess of Maine gathered around her at Sceaux, and stimulated the madness which seized upon the whole of Paris at the bidding of the financier Law. It frothed, too, in the goblets which Bertin du Rocheret had the honour of filling with his own hand for Peter the Great, on the passage of the Northern Colossus through Reims in June 1717; and its consumption was increased by a decree of 1728, which especially provided that people proceeding to their country seats might take with them for their own use a certain quantity of this wine free of duty. A curious purpose to which the wine was applied appeared from a wager laid by the Count de Saillans--one of the most famous horsemen of his day, and already distinguished by similar feats--to the effect that he would ride a single horse from the gate of Versailles to the Hôtel des Invalides within an hour. His wife, fearing the dangerous descent from Sèvres towards Paris, prevailed on the King to prohibit him from riding in person; but a valet, whose neck was of course of no moment, was allowed to act as his deputy in essaying the feat. The horse selected was carefully fed for some days beforehand on biscuits and Champagne. Crowds assembled to witness the attempt, which was made on May 9, 1725, and resulted in the valet's coming in two and a half minutes behind time. Whether this was due to the badness of the roads, as was alleged, or to the singular _régime_ adopted for the animal selected, remains a moot question.[170] Champagne won equal favour in the eyes of Louis XV., as in those of the curious compound of embodied vices who had watched over the welfare of the kingdom during his minority, though it is true that at a comparatively early age--in the year 1731--he had, on representations that over-production of wine was lowering its value, prohibited the planting of fresh vineyards without his permission under a penalty of 3000 francs, and had renewed this prohibition the year following.[171] [Illustration: LOUIS XV. WHEN YOUNG (From a picture of the epoch).] [Illustration: A FRENCH COUNTRY INN OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY (From the 'Routes de France').] The royal repasts at La Muette, Marly, and Choissy were, however, enlivened with wine from the Champagne; for we find Bertin du Rocheret in 1738 despatching thirty pieces of the still wine to M. de Castagnet for the _petits cabinets du Roi_,[172] and the eldest of the fair sisters La Nesle, Madame de Mailly, the 'Queen of Choissy' and _maîtresse en titre_, in 1740 reforming the cellar management, and suppressing the _petits soupers_ and Champagne orgies of the royal household.[173] Her conduct in this respect seems, however, not to have been dictated by motives of virtue, but rather by the conviction that the wine was too precious to be consumed by inferiors. We are assured that the countess loved wine, and above all that of Champagne, and that she could hold her own against the stoutest toper. 'She has been reproached with having imparted this taste to the King, but it is probable that his Majesty was naturally inclined that way.'[174] [Illustration: UN PETIT SOUPER OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY (From the collection of the 'Chansons de Laborde').] When, in 1741, the 'Well-Beloved' passed through Reims, Dom Chatelain, after rejoicing over the year's vintage having been a very fine one, adds that it was drunk to a considerable extent and with the greatest joy in the world during the ten days that the King remained in the city. 'It was no longer a question,' he exclaims exultingly, 'of sending for Burgundy or Laon wine.' Three years later, when traversing the Champagne, on his way to Metz, he again halted at Reims; and after hearing mass, 'retired to the Archevêché, where the Corps de la Ville presented his Majesty with the wines of the town, which he ordered to be taken to his apartments.'[175] Wine was also presented to the Prince de Soubise, Governor of the Champagne; the Duke de Villeroy, M. d'Argenson, and the Count de Joyeuse; whilst, for the benefit of the populace, four fountains of the same fluid flowed at the corners of the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville.[176] In like manner, at the inauguration of that 'brazen lie,' the statue of this same Louis XV., in 1767, wine flowed in rivers from the different fountains of the city.[177] The satyr-like sovereign of France was by no means the only monarch of his time who appreciated sparkling Champagne. Frederick the Great has praised its consoling powers in the doggerel which Voltaire was engaged to turn into poetry; and George II. of England at St. James's, and Stanislas Leczinski of Poland at Nancy, both quaffed of the same vintage of Ay despatched in 1754 from the cellars of Bertin du Rocheret. Marshal Saxe, during his sojourn in 1745 at Brussels, where he held a quasi-royal court, of which Mademoiselle de Navarre was the bright particular star, drew an ample supply of Champagne from the cellars of that lady's father, Claude Hevin de Navarre of Avenay, who had established himself as a wine merchant in the Belgian capital.[178] Despite, too, the continued outcry of some connoisseurs,[179] the _vin mousseux_ became the universal source of inspiration for the cabaret-haunting poets of that graceless witty epoch.[180] Voltaire, all unmoved by the excellent still Champagne with which he and the Duke de Richelieu had been regaled at Epernay by Bertin du Rocheret in May 1735, persisted in singing the praises of the effervescing wine of Ay, in the sparkling foam of which he professed to find the type of the French nation:[181] 'Chloris and Eglé, with their snowy hands, Pour out a wine of Ay, whose prisoned foam, Tightly compressed within its crystal home, Drives out the cork; 'midst laughter's joyous sound It flies, against the ceiling to rebound. The sparkling foam of this refreshing wine The brilliant image of us French does shine.' The Commander Descartes seems not to have been afraid to extol the charms of the sparkling wine to the younger Bertin du Rocheret, as stern a decrier of its merits as his father had previously been. In a letter dated December 1735, asking for 'one or two dozen bottles of sparkling white wine, neither _vert_ nor _liquoreux_, "I should like," he says, "some Of that delectable white wine Which foams and sparkles in the glass, And seldom mortal lips does pass; But cheers, at festivals divine, The gods to whom it owes its birth, Or else the great, our gods on earth."'[182] Amongst other versifiers of this epoch enamoured with the merits of the wine may be cited Charles Lebatteux, professor of rhetoric at Reims University, who in 1739 composed an ode, 'In Civitatem Remensam,' containing the following invocation to Bacchus: ''Tis not on the icy-topped mountains of Thrace, Or those of Rhodope, thy favours I trace-- Not there to invoke thee I'd roam. No! Reims sees thee reign sovereign lord o'er her hills; There I offer my vows, and the nectar that thrills To my soul I will seek close at home. Whether Venus-like rising midst foam sparkling white, Or wrapped in a mantle of rose rich and bright, Thou seekest my senses to fire, Come aid me to sing, for my Muse is full fain To owe on this day each melodious strain To the fervour 'tis thine to inspire.'[183] Bertin du Rocheret, who by no means shared his friend Voltaire's admiration for the sparkling vintage of Ay, sang the praises of the still wine of the Champagne after the following fashion in 1741: 'No, such blockheads do not sip Of that most delicious wine; Soul of love and fellowship, Sweet as truly 'tis benign. No, their palate, spoilt and worn, Craves adult'rate juice to drain; Poison raw which we should scorn, Beverage fit for frantic brain. Let us, therefore, hold as fools Such as now feign to despise Those _balsamic molecules_ Horace used to sing and prize. No, such blockheads do not sip Of that most delicious wine; Soul of joy and fellowship, Sweet as truly 'tis benign. Of that wine, so purely white, Which the sternest mood makes pass, And which sparkles yet more bright In your eyes than in my glass. Drink, then, drink; I pledge you, dear, In the nectar old we prize; Sparkling in our glasses clear, But more brightly in your eyes.'[184] [Illustration] Marmontel, the author of _Bélisaire_ and editor of the _Mercure de France_, found inspiration in his youthful days in the sparkling wine of Champagne. He describes, in somewhat fatuous style, the results of an invitation he received from Mademoiselle de Navarre to pass some months with her in 1746 at Avenay, where her father owned several vineyards, and where, she added, 'It will be very unfortunate if with me and some excellent vin de Champagne you do not produce good verses.' He tells how, in stormy weather, she insisted, on account of her fear of lightning, on dining in the cellars, where, 'in the midst of fifty thousand bottles of Champagne, it was difficult not to lose one's head;' and how he was accustomed to read to her the verses thus jointly inspired when seated together on a wooded hillock, rising amidst the vineyards of Avenay.[185] The foregoing in some degree recalls the circumstances under which Gluck, whose fame began to be established about this epoch, was accustomed to seek his musical inspirations. The celebrated composer of _Orpheus_ and _Iphegenia in Aulis_ was wont, when desirous of a visit from the 'divine afflatus,' to seat himself in the midst of a flowery meadow with a couple of bottles of Champagne by his side. By the time these were emptied, the air he was in search of was discovered and written down. The lively and good-humoured Abbé de l'Attaignant, whose occupations as a canon of Reims Cathedral seem to have allowed him an infinite quantity of spare time to devote to versifying, addressed some rather indifferent rhymes to Madame de Blagny on the cork of a bottle of Champagne exploding in her hand;[186] and in some lines to Madame de Boulogne, on her pouring out Champagne for him at table, he maintains that the nectar poured out by Ganymede to Jupiter at his repasts must yield to this vintage.[187] That boon convivialist Panard--who flourished at the same epoch, and was one of the chief songsters of the original Caveau, and a man of whom it was said that, 'when set running, the tide of song flowed on till the cask was empty'--has not neglected sparkling Champagne in his Bacchanalian compositions. The 'La Fontaine of Vaudeville,' as Marmontel dubbed him, does not hesitate to admit that he preferred the popping of Champagne corks to the martial strains of drum and trumpet.[188] The wine, moreover, furnishes him with frequent illustrations for his code of careless philosophy. 'Doctor for vintner vials fills Most carefully, with lymph of wells. Champagne, that grew on Nanterre's hills, Vintner in turn to doctor sells. So still we find, as on we jog Throughout the world, 'tis dog bite dog.'[189] Elsewhere Panard gives expression to the Bacchanalian sentiment, which he seems to have made his rule of life, in the following terms: 'Let's quit this vain world, with its pleasures that cloy, A destiny tranquil and sweet to enjoy: Descend to my cellar, and there taste the charms Of Champagne and Beaune; Our pleasure will there be without the alarms Of any joy queller; For the _ennui_ that often mounts up to the throne Will never descend to the cellar.'[190] The poet appears to have rivalled one of the characters in his piece, _Les Festes Sincères_ (represented on the 5th October 1744 on the occasion of the King's convalescence), who, after describing how wine was freely proffered to all comers, said that he had contented himself with thirty glasses, 'half Burgundy and half Champagne.' In a piece of verse entitled 'La Charme du Vaudeville à Table,' Panard sketches in glowing colours the inspiriting effect of sparkling Champagne upon such a joyous company of periwigged beaux and patched and powdered beauties as we may imagine to be assembled at the hospitable board of some rich financier of the epoch. ''Tis then some joyous guest A flask, filled with the best Of Reims or Ay, securely sealed, holds up; He deftly cuts the string, Aloft the cork takes wing; The rest with eager eyes Thrust glasses t'wards the prize, And watch the nectar foaming o'er the cup. They sip, they drink, they laugh, And then anew they quaff Their bumpers, crowned above the brim with foam That gives to laughter birth, And makes fresh bursts of mirth. Its spirit and its fire Unto the brain aspire, And rouse the wit of which this is the home.'[191] [Illustration] To its praise he also devotes a poetic _tour de force_, the concluding verses of which may thus be rendered: 'Thanks to the bowl That cheers my soul, No care can make me shrink. The foam divine Of this gray wine,[192] I think, When it I drain, Gives to each vein A link. Source of pure joy, Without alloy, Come, dear one, fain I'd drink! Divine Champagne, All grief and pain In thee I gladly sink. All ills agree Away from thee To slink. Sweet to the nose As new-blown rose Or pink. With gifts that ease And charms that please, Come, dear one, fain I'd drink!'[193] Despite the success achieved by the _vin mousseux_, merchants, owing to the excessive breakage of the bottles--of the cause of which and of the means of stopping it they were equally ignorant--often saw their hopes of fortune fly away with the splintered fragments of the shattered glass.[194] The following passages from the /MS./ notes of the founder of one of the first houses of Reims, written in 1770, would imply some knowledge of the fact that a _liquoreux_ wine was likely to lead to a destructive _casse_, and also that the importance of the trade in sparkling Champagne was far greater during the first half of the eighteenth century than is usually supposed.[195] The /MS./ in question says: 'In 1746 I bottled 6000 bottles of a very _liquoreux_ wine; I had only 120 bottles of it left. In 1747 there was less _liqueur_; the breakage amounted to one-third of the whole. In 1748 it was more vinous and less _liquoreux_; the breakage was only a sixth. In 1759 it was more _rond_, and the breakage was only a tenth. In 1766 the wine of Jacquelet was very _rond_; the breakage was only a twentieth.'[196] The writer then proceeds to recommend, as a means of preventing breakage, that the wine should not be bottled till the _liqueur_ had almost disappeared, and that, if necessary, fermentation should be checked by well beating the wine. But as at that epoch there was really no means of effectually testing this disappearance, and as the beating theory was an utterly fallacious one, the followers of his precepts remained with the sad alternative of producing in too many instances either _mousses folles_ and their inevitable accompaniment of disastrous breakage, or wine so mature as to be incapable of continuing its fermentation in bottle, and producing _mousse_ at all.[197] It is therefore evident that much of the sparkling wine drunk at the commencement of the last century was what we should call _crémant_, or, as it was then styled, _sablant_,[198] as otherwise the breakage would have been something frightful. Bertin du Rocheret plainly indicates after 1730 a difference between the fiercely frothing kinds, to which the term _saute bouchon_ or pop-cork was applied, and wine that was merely _mousseux_.[199] The price of the former is the highest, ranging up to 3 livres 6 sols, whilst that of the _bon mousseux_ does not exceed 50 sols, the difference in the two being no doubt based to a certain extent on the loss by breakage.[200] Hence, too, a partiality for weak sour growths for making _vin mousseux_, as, although science could give no reason, experience showed that with these the breakage would be less than with those of a saccharine nature.[201] Thus Bertin writes in 1744 that the vineyards of Avize, planted for the most part in 1715, and almost entirely with white grapes, only produced a thin wine, with a tartness that caused it to be one of the least esteemed in the district; but that 'since the mania for the _saute bouchon_, that abominable beverage, which has become yet more loathsome from an insupportable acidity,' the Avize wines had increased in value eightfold.[202] To this acidity the Abbé Bignon refers in a poem of 1741, in which, protesting against the partiality for violently effervescing wines, he says: 'Your palate is a cripple Worn out by fiery tipple, Or else it would prefer juice Of grapes to fizzing verjuice.'[203] This serves to explain the preference so long accorded by _gourmets_ to the finer _non mousseux_ wines, full of aroma and flavour, and often sugary and _liquoreux_, but looked upon by the general public up to the close of the eighteenth century as inferior to those which were sharp, strong, and even sourish, but which effervesced well.[204] Lingering relics of prejudice against sparkling wine existed as late as 1782, when that conscientious observer, Legrand d'Aussy, remarked that since it had been known that sparkling wines were green wines bottled in spring, when the universal revolution of Nature causes them to enter into fermentation, they had not been so much esteemed, the _gourmets_ of that day preferring those which did not sparkle.[205] It was not till the close of the eighteenth century that any attempt was openly made to improve sparkling Champagne by the addition of sugar.[206] Science then came forward to prove that such an addition was not contrary to the nature of wine, and that fermentation converted the saccharine particles of the must into alcohol, and increased the vinosity.[207] Several growers began to profit by this discovery of Chaptal, though, as a rule, those who followed his recommendations in secret were loudest in asserting that Providence alone had rendered their wine better than that of their neighbours.[208] M. Nicolas Perrier of Epernay, an ex-monk of Prémontré, pointed out, at the beginning of the present century, that up to that period sugar was only regarded as a means of rendering the wine more pleasant to drink, and had always been added after fermentation, and as late as possible. This practice was favoured by the tyrannical routine reigning among the peasants of not tasting the wine till December or January, when in 1800 a decisive experience confirmed the value of the new discoveries. Numerous demands for wine during the vintage led to anticipations of a brisk and speedy sale, and sugar was thereupon added at the time of the first fermentation, merely with the view, however, of bringing the wine more forward for the buyer to taste. The result went beyond the expectations entertained; and at Ay wines of the second class, commonly called _vins de vignerons_, rose to a price previously unheard of.[209] The present system of clearing the wine in bottles was not practised formerly. People were then not so particular about its perfect limpidity; besides which the wine consumed at the beginning of the year[210] had not time to deposit, and that bottled as _mousseux_, owing to its being originally made from carefully-selected grapes, formed very little sediment in the flask.[211] The method of _collage_ employed at the Abbey of Hautvillers is said to have preserved the wines from this evil. Whether this method transpired, or other people discovered it, is unknown; but certainly Bertin du Rocheret transmitted it, or something very similar, in July 1752 to his correspondent in London, who bottled Champagne wines regularly every year.[212] The necessity of ridding the wine of the deposit which deprived it of its limpidity was, however, recognised later on. At first no other method suggested itself, excepting to _dépoter_ it--that is, to decant it into another bottle; a plan fraught, in the case of sparkling wines, with several disadvantages. At the commencement of the present century, however, the system of _dégorgeage_ was substituted.[213] As at first practised, each bottle was held neck downwards, and either shaken or tapped at the bottom to detach the sediment, the operation being constantly repeated until the deposit had settled in the neck, when it was driven out by the force of the explosion which followed upon the removal of the cork. Somewhat later the plan now followed of placing the bottles in sloping racks and turning them every day was adopted, to the great saving of time and labour. Its discovery has been popularly attributed to Madame Clicquot; but the fact is the suggestion emanated from a person in her employ named Müller. The idea is said to have simultaneously occurred to a workman in Marizet's house of the name of Thommassin. Although the advent of such a delectable beverage as sparkling Champagne proved of much benefit to the world in general, and the wine-merchants of Reims and Epernay in particular, those most immediately concerned in its production had little or no reason to rejoice over its renown. The hapless peasants, from whose patches of vineyard it was to a great extent derived, were the last to profit by its popularity. Bidet, writing in 1759, foreshadows the misery which marked the last thirty years of the _ancien régime_.[214] Speaking of the important trade in wine carried on by the city of Reims, he urges that this would in reality be benefited by the old decrees, prohibiting the planting of new vineyards in the Champagne, being enforced to the letter. Extensive plantations of vines in land suitable for the growth of corn had doubled and even tripled the value of arable land, and caused a rise in the price of wheat. Manure, so necessary to bring these new plantations into bearing, and wood, owing to the demand for vine-stakes, barrel-staves, &c., had risen to thrice their former value. Recent epidemics had cost the lives of a large number of vine-dressers, and public _corvées_ occupied the survivors a great part of the year, and hence a considerable increase in the cost of cultivation, landowners having to pay high wages to labourers from a distance. 'Putting together all these excessive charges, with the crushing dues levied in addition upon vine-land as well as upon the sale and transport of wine, the result will infallibly be that the more profitable the wine-trade formerly was to Reims and to the vineyards of the environs, the more it will languish in the end, till it becomes a burden to all the vineyard owners.' Happily these gloomy forebodings have since been completely falsified. [Illustration: THE ARMS OF REIMS ON THE PORTE DE PARIS.] Reims accorded an enthusiastic welcome to the youthful and ill-fated Marie Antoinette, on her passage through the city on May 12, 1770, shortly after her arrival in France;[215] and five years subsequently the Rémois were regaled with the splendours of a coronation, when the young King, Louis XVI., and his radiant Queen passed beneath the elaborately wrought escutcheon surmounting the Porte de Paris, expressly forged by a blacksmith of Reims in honour of the occasion,[216] and received from the hands of the Lieutenant des Habitans the three silver keys of the city.[217] The King was crowned on the 11th June by the Cardinal Archbishop of Reims, Charles Antoine de la Roche Aymon, a prelate who had previously baptised, confirmed, and married him, when the six lay peers were represented by Monsieur (the Count of Provence), the Count d'Artois, the Dukes of Orleans, Chartres, and Bourbon, and the Prince de Condé. The royal train was borne by the Prince de Lambesq; the Marshal de Clermont Tonnerre officiated as Constable; and the sceptre, crown, and hand of justice were carried respectively by the Marshals de Contades, de Broglie, and de Nicolai.[218] How the ill-fated King exclaimed, as the crown of Charlemagne was placed upon his brow, 'It hurts me,' even as Henri III. had cried, under the same circumstances, 'It pricks me,' and how his natural benevolence led him to slur over that portion of the coronation oath in which he ought to have bound himself to exterminate all heretics, are matters of history. An innovation to be noted is, that at the banquet at the archiepiscopal palace, after the ceremony, the youthful sovereign did _not_ sit alone in solitary state beneath a canopy of purple velvet, ornamented with golden fleurs de lis, with his table encumbered by the great gold _nef_, the crown and the sceptres, the Constable, sword in hand, close by him, and the Grand Echanson and Ecuyer Tranchant tasting his wine and cutting his food,[219] circumstances under which 'the roast must be without savour and the Ai without bouquet.'[220] The King on this occasion admitted his brothers to his board; and the ecclesiastical peers, the lay peers, the ambassadors, and the great officers of the crown formed, as usual, four groups at the remaining tables, whilst the Queen and her ladies witnessed the gustatory exploits from a gallery. [Illustration: LOUIS XVI. TAKING THE CORONATION OATH AT REIMS (From a painting by Moreau).] The frightful oppression of _tailles_, _aides_, _corvées_, _gabelles_, and other dues that crushed the hapless peasant in the pre-Revolutionary era, weighed with especial severity upon the _vigneron_. In virtue of the _droit de gros_, the officers could at any hour make an inventory of his wine, decree how much he might consume himself, and tax him for the remainder.[221] The _fermiers généraux_, who farmed the taxes of the province, became his sleeping partners, and had their share in his crop.[222] In a vineyard at Epernay, upon four pieces of wine, the average produce of an arpent, and valued at 600 francs, the _ferme_ levied first 30 francs, and then when the pieces were sold 75 francs more.[223] The ecclesiastical tithe was also a heavy burden, at Hautvillers the eleventh of the wine being taken as _dismes_, at Dizy the twelfth, and at Pierry the twentieth.[224] The result was one continuous struggle of trickery on the part of the grower, and cunning on that of the officers.[225] The visits of the latter were paid almost daily, and their registers recorded every drop of wine in the cellars of the inhabitants.[226] [Illustration] But the wine had by no means acquitted all its dues. The merchant buying it had to pay another 75 francs to the _ferme_ before despatching it to the consumer. When he did despatch it, the _ferme_ strictly prescribed the route it was to take, any deviation from this being punished by confiscation; and it had to pay at almost every step. Transport by water was excessively onerous from constantly recurring tolls, and by land whole days were lost in undergoing examinations and verifications and making payments.[227] The commissionnaire charged with the conveyance of Bertin du Rocheret's wine to Calais from Epernay had from 70 to 75 francs per poinçon. Despite all these drawbacks, the export trade must have been considerable, for we are told that prior to the Revolution the profits on supplying two or three abbeys of Flanders were sufficient to enable a wine-merchant of Reims to live in good style.[228] On arriving at the town where it was to be drunk, the wine was subject to a fresh series of charges--_octroi_, _droit de détail_, _le billot_, _le cinquième en sus l'impôt_, _jaugeage_, _courtage_, _gourmettage_, &c.--frequently ranging up to 60 or 70 francs.[229] All this really affected the grower; for if the retail consumer, inhibited by high prices, could not buy, the former was unable to sell. At this epoch vine-grower and pauper were synonymous terms.[230] In certain districts of the Champagne the inhabitants actually threw their wine into the river to avoid paying the duties, and the Provincial Assembly declared that 'in the greater part of the province the slightest increase in duty would cause all the husbandmen to abandon the soil.'[231] It is scarcely to be wondered at that under such a system of excessive taxation the _fermiers généraux_, who all made good bargains with the State, should have amassed immense fortunes, whilst denying themselves no kind of luxury and enjoyment. They built themselves princely hotels, rivalled the nobility and even the Court in the splendour of their entertainments, grasped at money for the sensual gratification it would purchase, and loved pleasure for its own sake, and women for their beauty and _complaisance_. The _fermiers généraux_ of the province of Champagne had their bureaux, known as the Hôtel des Fermes, at Reims, and, after the town-hall, this was the handsomest civil edifice in the city. Erected in 1756 from designs by Legendre, it occupies to-day the principal side of the Place Royale. On the pediment of the façade is a bas-relief of Mercury, the god of commerce, in company with Penelope and the youthful Pan, surrounding whom are children engaged with the vintage and with bales of wool, typical of the staple trades of the capital of the Champagne. [Illustration: BAS-RELIEF ON THE ANCIENT HÔTEL DES FERMES AT REIMS.] [Illustration: L'ACCORD FRATERNEL (From a print published at the commencement of the Revolution).] The revolutionary epoch presents a wide gap in the written history of sparkling Champagne which no one seems to have taken the trouble of filling, though this hiatus can be to some extent bridged over by a glance at the caricatures of the period. It is evident from these that Champagne continued to be the fashionable wine _par excellence_. We can comprehend it was _de rigueur_ to 'fouetter le Champagne'[232] at the epicurean repasts held at the _petits maisons_ of the rich _fermiers généraux_, and that the _talons rouges_ of the Court of Louis Seize were not averse to the payment of 3 livres 10 sols for a bottle of this delightful beverage[233] when regaling some fair _émule_ of Sophie Arnould or Mademoiselle Guimard in the _coulisses_. One evening Mademoiselle Laguerre appeared on the stage as Iphigenia unmistakably intoxicated. 'Ah,' interjected the lively Sophie, 'this is not Iphigenia in Tauris, but Iphigenia in Champagne.' A proof of the aristocratic status of the wine is furnished by a print entitled _L'Accord Fraternel_, published at the very outset of the revolutionary movement, when it was fondly hoped that the Three Orders of the States General would unite in bringing about a harmonious solution to the evils by which France was sorely beset. In this the burly well-fed representative of the clergy holds out a bumper of Burgundy; the peasant--not one of the lean scraggy labourers, with neither shirt nor sabots,[234] prowling about half naked and hunger-stricken in quest of roots and nettle-tops, but a regular stage peasant in white stockings and pumps--grips a tumbler well filled with _vin du pays_; while the nobleman, elaborately arrayed in full military costume, with sword, cockade, and tie-wig all complete, delicately poises between his finger and thumb a tall _flute_ charged with sparkling Champagne. Moreover, we can plainly trace the exhilarating influence of the wine upon the 'feather-headed young ensigns' at the memorable banquet given to the officers of the Régiment de Flandre by the Gardes du Corps at Versailles, on the 2d Oct. 1789.[235] [Illustration: MIRABEAU TONNEAU (From a sketch by Camille Desmoulins).] Conspicuous amongst the titled topers of this period was the Viscount de Mirabeau--the younger brother of the celebrated orator and a fervent Royalist--nicknamed Mirabeau Tonneau, or Barrel Mirabeau, 'on account of his rotundity, and the quantity of strong liquor he contains.'[236] In a caricature dated 'An 1^{er} de la liberté,' and ascribed to Camille Desmoulins,[237] with whom the viscount long waged a paper war, his physical and bibacious attributes are very happily hit off. His body is a barrel; his arms, pitchers; his thighs, rundlets; and his legs inverted Champagne flasks; whilst in his left hand he holds a foam-crowned _flute_, and in his right another of those flasks, two of which he was credited with emptying at each repast.[238] [Illustration: LE NOUVEAU PRESSOIR DU CLERGÉ, 1789 (From a caricature of the epoch).] We have seen that the origin of many of the most famous _crûs_ of France was due to monkish labours, and that at Reims, as elsewhere, a large proportion of the ecclesiastical revenue was derived, either directly or indirectly, from the vineyards of the district. This was happily hit off in _Le Nouveau Pressoir du Clergé_, or _New Wine-Press for the Clergy_, published in 1789. A man of the people and a representative of the Third Estate, the latter in the famous slouched hat and short cloak, are working the levers of a press, under the influence of which a full-faced abbé is rapidly disgorging a shower of gold. A yet more portly ecclesiastic, worthy to be the Archbishop of Reims himself, is being led forward, in fear and trembling, to undergo a like operation; whilst in the background a couple of his compeers, reduced to the leanness of church-rats, are making off with gesticulations of despair. [Illustration: HENRI QUATRE AND LOUIS SEIZE. 'Ventre St. Gris! Is this my grandson Louis?' (Facsimile of a woodcut of the time.)] The chief personal traits of Louis Seize, as depicted in numerous contemporary memoirs, seem to have been a passion for making locks and a gross and inordinate appetite. High feeding usually implies deep drinking, and one may suppose that a wine so highly esteemed at Court as Champagne was not neglected by the royal gourmand. Still there seems to have been nothing in the unfortunate monarch's career to justify the cruel caricature wherein he is shown with the ears and hoofs of a swine wallowing in a wine-vat, with bottles, flasks, pitchers, cups, goblets, glasses, and _flûtes_ of every variety scattered around him; whilst Henri Quatre, who has just crossed the Styx on a visit to earth, exclaims in amazement, 'Ventre St. Gris! is this my grandson Louis?' In another caricature, entitled 'Le Gourmand,' and said to represent an incident in the flight of the royal family from Paris, Louis XVI. is shown seated at table--surrounded by stringed flasks of Champagne, with the customary tall glasses--engaged in devouring a plump capon. His Majesty is evidently annoyed at being interrupted in the middle of his repast, but it is difficult to divine who the intruder is intended for. He can scarcely be one of the commissioners despatched by the National Assembly to secure the king's return to Paris, as the German hussars drawn up in the doorway are inconsistent with this supposition. The female figure before the looking-glass is of course intended for Marie Antoinette, whilst the ungainly young cub in the background is meant for the Dauphin in an evident tantrum with his nurse.[239] As to the pamphleteers, who advocated the Rights of Man and aspersed Marie Antoinette; the poets, who addressed their countless airy trifles to Phyllis and Chloe; the penniless disciples of Boucher and Greuze; and the incipient demagogues, briefless advocates, unbeneficed abbés, discontented bourgeois, whose eloquence was to shatter the throne of the Bourbons, they were fain for the time being to content themselves with the _petit bleu_ of Argenteuil or Suresnes, consumed in company with Manon or Margot, in one of the dingy smoky _cabarets_ which the _café_ was so soon in a great measure to replace. When, however, their day did come, we may be sure they denied themselves no luxury, and sparkling Champagne would certainly have graced Danton's luxurious repasts, and may possibly have played its part at the last repast of the condemned Girondins. In '93, we find Champagne of 1779--the still wine, of course--announced for sale at Lemoine's shop in the Palais Royal; while a delectable compound, styled _crême de fleur d'orange grillée au vin de Champagne_, was obtainable at Théron's in the Rue St. Martin.[240] The sparkling wine can scarcely have failed to figure on the _carte_ of the sumptuous repasts furnished by the _restaurateurs_, Méot and Beauvillers, to the _de facto_ rulers of France,[241] although in 1795 the price of wine generally in Paris had increased tenfold.[242] Ex-_procureurs_ of the defunct Parliament carefully hoarded all that remained of the Champagne formerly lavished upon them by their ex-clients;[243] whilst the latter had to content themselves with tea at London and beer at Coblenz.[244] [Illustration] Although details respecting the progress of the Champagne wine-trade at home and abroad at the outset of the present century are somewhat scanty, we readily gather that the great popularity of the sparkling wine throughout Europe dates from an event which, at the time of its occurrence, the short-sighted Champenois looked upon as most disastrous. This was the Allied invasion of 1814-15. Consumption, so far as the foreign market was concerned, had been grievously interrupted by the great upset in all commercial matters consequent upon the wars of the Revolution and the Empire. It appears that the white wines of Champagne were sent to Paris, Normandy, Italy, and, 'when circumstances permitted of it,' to England, Holland, Sweden, Denmark, Russia, Spain, Portugal, and 'beyond the seas.' But the trade had suffered greatly during the wars with Austria and Russia in 1806 and 1807; and in the following years the consumption of white wine had fallen considerably, and a large number of wine-merchants had found themselves unable to meet their engagements.[245] The wine which Napoleon I. preferred is said to have been Chambertin; still, his intimacy with the Moëts of Epernay could scarcely fail to have led to a supply of the best sparkling Champagne from the cellars he had deigned to visit in person. His satraps, who travelled with the retinue of sovereign princes, included the wine in their equipment wherever they went, and the popping of its mimic artillery echoed in their tents the thunder of their victorious cannon. But comparatively few foreign guests met at their tables; and as their foes had on their side few victories to celebrate in a similar style, the knowledge of sparkling Champagne outside France was confined to the comparatively small number of persons of wealth and position able to pay an extravagant price for it. At length the fatal year, 1814, arrived, and the Allies swarmed across the frontier after the 'nations' fight' at Leipzig. The Champagne lying directly on the way to Paris saw some hard fighting and pitiless plundering. The Prussians of Baron von Tromberg got most consumedly drunk at Epernay. The Cossacks ravaged Rilly, Taissy, and the other villages of the Mountain; and not being able to carry off all the wine they found at Sillery, 'added to their atrocities,' in the words of an anonymous local chronicler,[246] by staving in the barrels and flooding the cellars. The Russians, under the renegade St. Priest, seized on Reims, whetted their thirst with salt herrings till the retail price of these dainties rose from 5 liards a pair to 3 sous apiece, and then set to work to quench it with Champagne to such an extent that when Napoleon suddenly swooped down upon the city like his own emblematic eagle, a large number of them, especially among the officers, were neither in a condition to fight nor fly.[247] The immense body of foreign troops who remained quartered in the east of France after the downfall of the Empire continued to pay unabated devotion to the _dive bouteille_. Tradition has especially distinguished the Russians, and relates how the Cossacks used to pour Champagne into buckets, and share it with their horses. But the walking sand-beds of North Germany, the swag-bellied warriors of Baden and Bavaria, and the stanch topers of Saxony and Swabia must of a surety have distinguished themselves. The votaries of Gambrinus, the beer king, strove whether they could empty as many bottles of Champagne at a sitting as they could flagons filled with the amber-hued beverage of their native province; while the inhabitants of those districts where the grape ripens sought to institute exhaustive comparisons between the vintages they gathered at home and the growths of the favoured region in which they now found themselves. [Illustration: LES RUSSES À PARIS (From a coloured print of the time).] The Berliner was fain to acknowledge the superiority of the foam engendered by Champagne over that crowning his favourite _weissbier_, his own beloved _kuhle blonde_, and the beer-topers of Munich and Dresden to give the preference to the exhilaration produced by quaffing the wine of Reims and Epernay over that due to the consumption of _bockbier_. The Nassauer and the Rhinelander had to admit certain intrinsic merits in the vintages produced on the slopes of the Marne, and found to be lacking in those grown on the banks of the Rhine, the Ahr, the Main, and the Moselle. The Austrian recognised the superiority of the wines of the Mountain over those of Voslau or the Luttenberg; and the Magyar had to allow that the _crûs_ of the River possessed a special charm which Nature had denied to his imperial Tokay. Even the red-coated officers who followed 'Milord Vilainton' to the great review at Mont Aimé, near Epernay, proved faithless to that palladium of the British mess-table, their beloved 'black strop.' Claret might in their eyes be only fit for boys and Frenchmen, and Port the sole drink for men; but they were forced to hail Champagne as being, as old Baudius had already phrased it, 'a wine for gods.' [Illustration: LE DÎNER DE MILORD GOGO, 1816 (After a coloured print of the time).] The officers of the Allied armies quartered in Paris after the Hundred Days supplemented the charms of the Palais Royal--then in the very apogee of its vogue as the true centre of Parisian life, with its cafés, restaurants, theatres, gambling-houses, and Galeries de Bois--with an abundance of sparkling Champagne. Royalty itself set the example by indicating a marked preference for the wine, Louis Dixhuit, according to a statement made by Wellington to Rogers, drinking nothing else at dinner. To celebrate the victories of Leipsic and Waterloo or a successful assault on the bank at Frascati's, to console for the loss of a _grosse mise_ at No. 113 or of a comrade transfixed beneath a lamp in the Rue Montpensier by a Bonapartist sword-blade, to win the smiles of some fickle Aspasia of the Palais Royal Camp des Tartares or to blot out the recollection of her infidelity, to wash down one of the Homeric repasts in which the English prototypes of the 'Fudge Family Abroad' indulged, the wine was indispensable; until, as a modern writer has put it, 'Waterloo was avenged at last by the _gros bataillons_ of the bankers at _roulette_ and _trente et quarante_, and by the sale to the invaders of many thousand bottles of rubbishing Champagne at twelve francs the flask.'[248] The rancorous enmity prevailing between the officers of Bonapartist proclivities placed on half-pay and the returned _émigrés_ who had accepted commissions from Louis XVIII., resulted, as is well known, in numerous hostile meetings. Captain Gronow has dwelt upon the bellicose exploits of a gigantic Irish officer in the _gardes du corps_, named Warren, who, when 'excited by Champagne and brandy,'[249] was prepared to defy an army; and he tells us that at Tortoni's there was a room set apart for such quarrelsome gentlemen, where, after these meetings, they indulged in riotous Champagne breakfasts.[250] At home, the British Government were being twitted on their parsimony in limiting the supply of Champagne for the table of the exiled Emperor at St. Helena to a single bottle per diem, a circumstance which led Sir Walter Scott to protest against the conduct of Lord Bathurst and Sir Hudson Lowe in denying the captive 'even the solace of intoxication.' As is not unfrequently the case, out of evil came good. The assembled nations had drunk of a charmed fountain, and it had excited a thirst which could not be quenched. The Russians had become acquainted with Champagne, which Talleyrand had styled '_le vin civilisateur par excellence_,' and to love this wine was with them a very decided step towards a liberal education. Millions of bottles, specially fortified to the pitch of strength and sweetness suited for a hyperborean climate, were annually despatched to the great northern empire from the house of Clicquot; and later on the travellers of rival firms, eager to secure a portion of this patronage, traversed the dominions of the autocrat throughout their length and breadth, and poured their wines in wanton profusion down the throats of one and all of those from whom there appeared a prospect of securing custom. [Illustration] From this influx of sparkling wine into the frozen empire of the Czar the acceptance of civilisation--of rather a superficial character, it is true--may be said to date. Had Peter the Great only preferred Champagne to corn-brandy, the country would have been Europeanised long ago. As it is, the wine has to-day become a recognised necessity in higher class Russian society, and scandal even asserts that whenever it is given at a dinner-party, the host is careful to throw the windows open, in order that the popping of the corks may announce the fact to his neighbours. Abroad the Russians are more reserved in their manners; and though ranking amongst the best customers of the Parisian _restaurateurs_ for high-class wines, it is only now and then that some excited Calmuck is to be seen flooding the glasses of his companions with Champagne in a public dining-room. The Russians, it should be noted, have sought, and not unsuccessfully, to produce sparkling wines of their own, more especially in the country of the Don Cossacks and near the Axis. [Illustration] Béranger might exclaim, with a poet's license, that he preferred a Turkish invasion to seeing the wines of the Champagne profaned by the descendants of the Alemanni;[251] but the merchants of Reims and Epernay were of a different opinion. _Les militaires_ have always affected Champagne; and a military aristocracy like that of the Fatherland, in the cruel days when peace forbade any more free quarters and requisitions, became as large purchasers of the wine as their somewhat scanty revenues allowed of. Their example was followed to a considerable extent by the self-made members of that plutocratic class which modern speculation has caused to spring into life in Germany. Advantage was speedily taken of this taste by their own countrymen, who aimed at supplanting Champagne by sparkling wines grown on native slopes. Nay more, the Germans, as a military nation, felt bound to carry the war into the enemy's territory, and hence it is that many important houses at Reims and Epernay are of German origin. Across the Rhine patriotism has had to yield to popularity, and the stanchest native topers have been forced to acknowledge, after due comparison in smoky _wein stuben_ and gloomy _keller_, that, though the sparkling wines of the Rhine and the Moselle are in their own way most excellent, there is but one _Champagner-wein_, with Reims for its Mecca and Epernay for its Medina. [Illustration] Of England we shall elsewhere speak at length; but the speculative trade of her colonies, with its sharp bargains, dead smashes, and large profits could hardly be carried on without the wheels of the car of Commerce and the tongues of her votaries being oiled with Champagne. The Swiss have only proved the truth of the proverb that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery by producing tolerable replicas of Champagne at Neufchâtel, Vevay, and Sion. Northern, or, to speak by the map, Scandinavian, Europe takes its fair share of the genuine article; and although the economic Belgian is apt to accept sparkling Saumur and Vouvray as a substitute, both he and his neighbour, the Dutchman, can to the full appreciate the superiority of the produce of the Marne over that of the Loire. The Italian and the Spaniard may affect to outwardly despise a liquor which they profess not to be able to recognise as wine at all; but the former has to allow, _per Bacco_, that it excels in its particular way his extolled Lacryma Christi, while the latter does not carry his proverbial sobriety so far as to exclude the wine from repasts in the upper circles of Peninsular society. Moreover, of recent years they have both commenced making sparkling wines of their own. The Austrian also produces sparkling wines from native vintages, notably at Voslau, Graz, and Marburg; still this has not in any way lessened his admiration for, or his consumption of, Champagne. The Greek is ready enough to 'dash down yon cup of Samian wine,' provided there be a goblet of Champagne close at hand to replace it with; and boyards and magnates of the debateable ground of Eastern Europe not only imbibe the sparkling wines of the Marne ostentatiously and approvingly, but several of them have essayed the manufacture of _vin mousseux_ on their own estates. The East, the early home of the vine, and the first region to impart civilisation, is perhaps the last to receive its reflux in the shape of sparkling wine. But, the prohibition of the Prophet notwithstanding, Champagne is to be purchased on the banks of the Golden Horn, and has been imported extensively into Egypt in company with _opéra-bouffe_, French _figurantes_, stock-jobbing, and sundry other matters of foreign extraction under the _régime_ of the late Khedive. The land of Iran has beheld with wonderment its sovereign freely quaffing the fizzing beverage of the Franks in place of the wine of Shiraz. The East Indies consume Champagne in abundance; for it figures not only on the proverbially hospitable tables of the merchants and officials of Calcutta, Bombay, and Madras, but at the symposia of most of the rajahs, princes, nawabs, and other native rulers. The almond-eyed inhabitant of 'far Cathay,' reluctant to abandon that strange civilisation so diametrically opposed in all its details to our own, continues to drink his native vintages, warm and out of porcelain cups, and to regard the sparkling drink of the Fanquis as a veritable 'devils' elixir.' But his utterly differing neighbour, the Japanese, so eager to welcome everything European, has gladly greeted the advent of Champagne, and freely yielded to its fascination. Turning to the undiscovered continent, we find sable sovereigns ruling at the mouths of the unexplored rivers of Equatorial Africa fully acquainted with Champagne, though disposed, from the native coarseness of their taste, to rank it as inferior to rum; whilst the Arab, filled with wonderment at the marvels of European civilisation which meet his eye at Algiers, bears back with him to the _douar_, wrapped up in the folds of his burnous, a couple of bottles of the wondrous effervescing drink of the Feringhees as a testimony, even as Othere brought the walrus-tooth to Alfred. One enthusiastic Algerian colonist has gone so far as to prophesy the advent of the day when the products of the native vineyards shall eclipse Champagne.[252] Let us hope, however, in the interest of Algerian digestions, that this day is as yet far distant. [Illustration] With respect to the consumption of Champagne in the Western world, the United States' exceeds that of any European country, England and France alone excepted, despite the competition of sparkling Catawba and of a certain diabolical imitation, the raw material of which, it is asserted, is furnished not by the grapes of the Carolinas, the peaches of New Jersey, or the apples of Vermont, but by the oil-wells of Pennsylvania--in fact, petroleum Champagne. The _cabinet particulier_ seems to be an institution as firmly established in the leading cities of the States as in Paris; and rumour says that drinking from a Champagne-glass touched by a fair one's lips has replaced the New England pastime of eating the same piece of maple-candy till mouths meet. As regards the South American Republics, the popping of musketry at each fresh _pronunciamento_ is certain to be succeeded by that of Champagne-corks in honour of the success of one or the other of the contending parties. In Europe Champagne has continued to be, from the days of Paulmier and Venner downwards, the drink of kings, princes, and great lords as they described it. Take a list of the potentates of the present century, and the majority of them will be found to have evinced at some time or other a partiality for the wine. Louis XVIII. drank nothing else at table. The late ruler of Prussia, Frederick William IV., had such a penchant for Champagne of a particular manufacture, that he obtained the cognomen of King Clicquot. The predecessor of Pio Nono, Gregory XVI., rivalled him in this appreciation, and, terrible to relate, so did the Commander of the Faithful, Abdul Medjid. The latter might, however, have pleaded the excuse put forward by Abd-el-Kader, that although the Prophet had forbidden wine, yet Champagne came into the category of aerated waters, concerning which he had said nothing, a remark justifying the title given to this wit-inspiring beverage of being 'the father of _bons mots_.' Prince Bismarck, in the stormy period of his youth, was in the barbarous habit of imbibing Champagne mixed with porter; but at present he judiciously alternates it with old Port. Marshal MacMahon and the King of the Belgians are said to drink the pink variety of the _vin mousseux_ by preference. [Illustration: 'SOUS LA TONNELLE' (From a print of the time of the Restoration).] [Illustration] [Illustration] [Illustration] [Illustration: 'AU BEAU SEXE!'] Naturally, in France as elsewhere, the sparkling vintage of the Marne maintains its claims to be reckoned the wine of beauty and fashion, and more especially in beauty's gayer hours. A glass of Champagne and a _biscuit de Reims_ has been a refection which, though often verbally declined, was in the end pretty sure to be accepted from the days of the _merveilleuses_ and _incroyables_, through those of the _lionnes_, down to the present epoch of the _cocodettes de la haute gomme_. Neither at ceremonial banquets nor at ordinary dinner-parties among our neighbours does Champagne hold, however, so prominent a place as amongst ourselves, owing to the great variety of other wines--all capable of appreciation by trained palates--entering into the composition of these festive repasts. In fact, a _repas de noces_ is the only occasion on which Champagne flows in France with anything like the freedom to which we are accustomed; and then it is that its exhilarating effect is marked, as some portly old boy rises with twinkling eye to propose the health of the bride, or of that _beau sexe_ to which he feels bound to profess himself deeply devoted. At such open-air gatherings as the races at Longchamps and Chantilly, the _buffet_ will be besieged by a succession of frail fair ones in the most elaborate _toilettes de courses_, seeking to nerve themselves to witness a coming struggle, or to console themselves for the defeat of the horse backed by their favoured admirer. And, when writing of this wine, it is altogether impossible to omit a reference to those _tête-à-tête_ repasts _en cabinet particulier_, of which it is the indispensable adjunct. Its mollifying influence on the feminine heart on occasions such as these has been happily hit off by Charles Monselet in his _Polichinelle au Restaurant_: [Illustration] '/Polichinelle au Restaurant./ I. In a cabinet of Vachette, Pomponnette Listens to the pressing lover; Who, before they've done their soup, Cock-a-hoop, Dares his passion to discover. II. Elbows resting on the cloth, Partly wrath-- So much do his words astound-- Resolute she to resist Being kissed, Draws her mantle closer round. III. Whilst in vain his cause he pressed, A third guest, Who in ice-pail by them slumbered, Rears above his wat'ry bed Silver head And long neck with ice encumbered. IV. 'Tis Champagne, who murmurs low, "Don't you know That when once you set me flowing, This fair rebel to Love's dart In her heart Soon will find soft passion glowing? V. This, if you will list to me, You shall see; Cease to swear by flames and fire, Cast aside each angry thought, As you ought, And at once cut through my wire, VI. For I am the King Champagne, And I reign Over e'en the sternest lasses, When midst maddening song and shout I gush out, Flooding goblets, bumpers, glasses. VII. As thus spoke the generous wine, Its benign Influence her heart 'gan soften. Who seeks such a cause to gain, To Champagne His success finds owing often.'[253] [Illustration] VI. /Champagne in England./ The strong and foaming wine of the Champagne forbidden his troops by Henry V.--The English carrying off wine when evacuating Reims on the approach of Jeanne Darc--A legend of the siege of Epernay--Henry VIII. and his vineyard at Ay--Louis XIV.'s present of Champagne to Charles II.--The courtiers of the Merry Monarch retain the taste for French wine acquired in exile--St. Evremond makes the Champagne flute the glass of fashion--Still Champagne quaffed by the beaux of the Mall and the rakes of the Mulberry Gardens--It inspires the poets and dramatists of the Restoration--Is drank by James II. and William III.--The advent of sparkling Champagne in England--Farquhar's _Love and a Bottle_--Mockmode the Country Squire and the witty liquor--Champagne the source of wit--Port-wine and war combine against it, but it helps Marlborough's downfall--Coffin's poetical invitation to the English on the return of peace--A fraternity of chemical operators who draw Champagne from an apple--The influence of Champagne in the Augustan age of English literature--Extolled by Gay and Prior--Shenstone's verses at an inn--Renders Vanbrugh's comedies lighter than his edifices--Swift preaches temperance in Champagne to Bolingbroke--Champagne the most fashionable wine of the eighteenth century--Bertin du Rocheret sends it in cask and bottle to the King's wine-merchant--Champagne at Vauxhall in Horace Walpole's day--Old Q. gets Champagne from M. de Puissieux--Lady Mary's Champagne and chicken--Champagne plays its part at masquerades and bacchanalian suppers--Becomes the beverage of the ultra-fashionables above and below stairs--Figures in the comedies of Foote, Garrick, Coleman, and Holcroft--Champagne and real pain--Sir Edward Barry's learned remarks on Champagne--Pitt and Dundas drunk on Jenkinson's Champagne--Fox and the Champagne from Brooks's--Champagne smuggled from Jersey--Grown in England--Experiences of a traveller in the Champagne trade in England at the close of the century--Sillery the favourite wine--Nelson and the 'fair Emma' under the influence of Champagne--The Prince Regent's partiality for Champagne punch--Brummell's Champagne blacking--The Duke of Clarence overcome by Champagne--Curran and Canning on the wine--Henderson's praise of Sillery--Tom Moore's summer fête inspired by Pink Champagne--Scott's Muse dips her wing in Champagne--Byron's sparkling metaphors--A joint-stock poem in praise of Pink Champagne--The wheels of social life in England oiled by Champagne--It flows at public banquets and inaugurations--Plays its part in the City, on the Turf, and in the theatrical world--Imparts a charm to the dinners of Belgravia and the suppers of Bohemia--Champagne the ladies' wine _par excellence_--Its influence as a matrimonial agent--'O the wildfire wine of France!' [Illustration] So great a favourite as Champagne now is with all classes in England, the earliest notice of it in connection with our history nevertheless represents it in a somewhat inimical light. For, according to an Italian writer of the fifteenth century, 'the strong and foaming wine of Champagne was found so injurious that Henry V. was obliged, after the battle of Agincourt, to forbid its use in his army, excepting when tempered with water.'[254] Although this may be the earliest mention of the wine of the Champagne by name in association with our own countrymen, opportunities had been previously afforded to them of becoming acquainted with its assumed objectionable qualities. The prelates who crossed 'the streak of silver sea' with Thurstan of York to attend the ecclesiastical councils held at 'little Rome,' as Reims was styled in the twelfth century, and the knights and nobles who swelled the train of Henry II. when he did homage to Philip Augustus at the latter's coronation, may be regarded as exceptionally fortunate, or unfortunate, in this respect, since the bulk of the English wine-drinkers of that day had to content themselves with the annual shipments of Anjou and Poitevin wines from Nantes and La Rochelle.[255] But the stout men-at-arms and death-dealing archers who followed the third Edward to the gates of Reims in the days when ''Twas merry, 'twas merry in France to go, A yeoman stout with a bended bow, To venge the King on his mortal foe, And to quaff the Gascon wine,' no doubt found consolation for some of the hardships they endured during their wet and weary watches in the bitter winter of 1365 in the familiarity they acquired with the vintages of the Mountain and the Marne. [Illustration] And, their sovereign's prohibition notwithstanding, there is every reason to believe that the heroes of Agincourt drank pottle-deep of the forbidden beverage. The grim Earl of Salisbury bore no love to the burghers of Reims;[256] but there is little likelihood that his aversion extended to the wine of the province he ruled as governor, and the garrisons of its various strongholds over which the red cross of St. George triumphantly floated revelled on the best of 'the white wyne and the rede.' In the days of hot fighting and keen foraging which marked the close of Bedford's regency, there is ample evidence to show that our countrymen had acquired and retained a very decided taste for these growths. When Charles VII. entered Reims in triumph, with Jeanne Darc by his side and the chivalry of France around him, the retreating English garrison bore forth with them on the opposite side of the city a string of wains piled high with casks of wine, the pillage of the burghers' cellars.[257] Tradition tells, too, how the English, besieged in the town of Epernay, had gathered there great store of wine, and how this suggested to their captain a cunning stratagem. Having caused a number of wagons to be laden with casks of wine, he despatched them with a feeble escort through the gate furthest from the beleaguering forces, as though destined to Chalons as a place of safety. The French commander marked this, and as soon as the convoy was well clear of the walls, a body of horse came spurring after it in hot haste. The wagon-train halted; there was a brief attempt to turn the laden vehicles homewards, and then, seeing the hopelessness of this, the escort galloped back into the town, and down swooped the Frenchmen on their prize. The ride had been sharp; the day was hot, and the road dusty. So a score of the captured casks were quickly broached; and as the generous fluid flowed freely down the throats of the captors, it soon began to produce an effect. Some of them, overcome by the heat and the wine, loosened their armour, and stretched themselves at length on the ground; whilst others, grouped around some fast emptying barrel, continued to quaff from their helmets and other improvised drinking vessels confusion to the 'island bull-dogs.' When lo, the gate of the town flew open; an English trumpet rang out its note of defiance; and, with lances levelled, the flower of the garrison poured forth like a living avalanche upon the startled Frenchmen. Before they could make ready to fight or fly, the foe was upon them, and their blood was soon mingling on the dusty highway with the pools of wine which had gushed forth from the abandoned casks. Hardly one escaped the slaughter; but local tradition chuckles grimly as it notes that in revenge thereof every man of the garrison was put to the edge of the sword on the subsequent capture of the town by the French.[258] [Illustration] At the close of the fruitless struggle against the growing power of Charles the Victorious, we were fain to fall back, as of old, upon the strong wines of south-western France, the vintages of Bergerac, Gaillac, and Rabestens, shipped to us from the banks of the Garonne,[259] and the luscious malmseys of the Archipelago, to which were subsequently added the growths of southern Spain. The taste of the wine of the Champagne must have been almost forgotten amongst us when the growing fame of the vineyards of Ay attracted the notice of Bluff King Hal. Most likely he and Francis I. swore eternal good fellowship at the Field of the Cloth of Gold over a beaker of this regal liquor. Once alive to its merits, the King, whose ambassadors, _pace_ John Styles, seem to have had standing orders to keep an equally sharp look out for wines or wives likely to suit the royal fancy, neglected no opportunity of securing it in perfection. Like his contemporaries, Charles V., Francis I., and Leo X., he stationed a commissioner at Ay intrusted with the onerous duty of selecting a certain number of casks of the best growths, and despatching them, carefully sealed, to the cellars of Whitehall, Greenwich, and Richmond. The example set by the monarch was, however, too costly a one to be followed by his subjects, and the very name of Champagne probably remained unknown to them for years to come. The poets and dramatists of the Elizabethan era, who have left us so accurate a picture of the manners of their day, and make such frequent allusions to the wines in vogue, do not even mention Champagne; Gervase Markham preserves a like silence in his _Modern Housewife_,[260] while the passages in Surflet's _Maison Rustique_ extolling the wine of Ay are merely translations from the original French edition.[261] And though Venner speaks of these wines as excelling all others, he is careful to attribute their consumption to the King and the nobles of France.[262] The captive Queen of Scots, whose consumption of wine elicited dire lament from one of her lordly jailers,[263] may have missed at Fotheringay the vintage she had tasted in early life when enjoying the hospitality of her uncle, Cardinal Charles of Lorraine, at Reims; but to the half-hearted pedant, her son, the name of Epernay recalled no convivial associations--it was merely the title of a part of his slaughtered mother's appanage. Spanish influence and Spanish wine ruled supreme at his Court; and though Rhenish crowned the goblets of many of the high-souled cavaliers who rallied round King Charles and Henrietta Maria, the bulk of the English nation remained faithful, till the close of the Commonwealth, to their old favourites of the south of Spain and the fragrant produce of the Canaries. [Illustration] All this was altered when 'the King enjoyed his own again;' for the Restoration made Champagne--that is, the still red wine of the province--the most fashionable, if not the most popular, wine in England. At the Court of Louis XIV. the future Merry Monarch and his faithful followers had acquired a taste for the wines of France, and they brought back this taste,[264] together with sundry others of a far more reprehensible character, with them to England. One of the first and most acceptable gifts of Louis to his brother-sovereign on the latter's recall was 'two hundred hogsheads of excellent wine--Champagne, Burgundy, and Hermitage.'[265] Returning home more French than the French themselves, the late exiles ruminated on the flesh-pots of Egypt, and sighed; and we can readily picture a gallant who had seen hot service under Condé or Turenne exclaiming to his friend and fellow-soldier: 'Ah, Courtine, must we be always idle? Must we never see our glorious days again? When shall we be rolling in the lands of milk and honey, encamped in large luxuriant vineyards, where the loaded vines cluster about our tents, drink the rich juice just pressed from the plump grape?'[266] And that friend replying: 'Ah, Beaugard, those days have been; but now we must resolve to content ourselves at an humble rate. Methinks it is not unpleasant to consider how I have seen thee in a large pavilion drowning the heat of the day in Champagne wines--sparkling sweet as those charming beauties whose dear remembrance every glass recorded--with half a dozen honest fellows more.'[267] Demand created supply, until, in 1667, a few years after the Restoration, France furnished two-fifths of the amount of wine consumed in the kingdom;[268] and the taste of the royal sybarite for the light-coloured wines of the Marne seems to be hinted at in Malagene's exclamation: 'I have discovered a treasure of pale wine.... I assure you 'tis the same the King drinks of.'[269] St. Evremond, who, though not precisely cast by Nature from 'the mould of form,' fulfilled for many years the duties of arbiter elegantiarum at Charles's graceless Court, decidedly did his best to render the Champagne _flûte_ 'the glass of fashion.' Ever ready to speak in praise of the wines of Ay, Avenay, and Reims,[270] the mentor of the Count de Grammont strove by example as well as by precept to win converts to his creed. In verse he declares that the beauties of the country fail to console him for the absence of Champagne; regrets that the season of the wines of the Marne is over, and that the yield of those of the Mountain had failed; and shudders at the prospect of being obliged to have recourse to the Loire, to Bordeaux, or to Cahors for the wine he will have to drink.[271] [Illustration] The lively Frenchman found plenty of native writers to reëcho him. Champagne sparkles in all the plays of the Restoration, and seems the fitting inspiration of their matchless briskness of dialogue. The Millamours and Bellairs, the Carelesses and Rangers, the Sir Joskin Jolleys and Sir Fopling Flutters, the _beaux_ of the Mall and the rakes of the Mulberry and New Spring Gardens, the gay frequenters of the Folly on the Thames and the _habitués_ of Pontack's Ordinary, whom the contemporary dramatists transferred bodily to the stage of the King's or the Duke's, are constantly tossing off bumpers of it. Their lives would seem to have been one continuous round of love-making and Champagne-drinking, to judge from the following 'catch,' sung by four merry gentlemen at a period when, according to Redding, ten thousand tuns of French wine were annually pouring into England: 'The pleasures of love and the joys of good wine, To perfect our happiness, wisely we join; We to Beauty all day Give the sovereign sway, And her favourite nymphs devoutly obey. At the plays we are constantly making our court, And when they are ended we follow the sport To the Mall and the Park, Where we love till 'tis dark; Then sparkling Champaign[272] Puts an end to their reign; It quickly recovers Poor languishing lovers; Makes us frolic and gay, and drowns all our sorrow; But, alas, we relapse again on the morrow.'[273] [Illustration] We learn, indeed, that under the influence of 'powerful Champaign, as they call it, a spark can no more refrain running into love than a drunken country vicar can avoid disputing of religion when his patron's ale grows stronger than his reason.'[274] Probably it was owing to this quality of inspiring a tendency to amativeness that ladies were sometimes expected to join in such potations. 'She's no mistress of mine That drinks not her wine, Or frowns at my friends' drinking motions; If my heart thou wouldst gain, Drink thy flask of Champaign; 'Twill serve thee for paint and love-potions,'[275] is the sentiment enunciated in chorus by four half-fuddled topers in the New Spring Gardens. At the Mulberry Gardens we find that 'Jack Wildish sent for a dozen more Champaign, and a brace of such girls as we should have made honourable love to in any other place.'[276] With such manners and customs can we wonder at one gentleman complaining how another 'came where I was last night roaring drunk; swore--d--him!--he had been with my Lord Such-a-one, and had swallowed three quarts of Champaign for his share;'[277] or have any call to feel surprised that such boon companions should 'come, as the sparks do, to a playhouse too full of Champaign, venting very much noise and very little wit'?[278] Champagne remains ignored in such books as the _Mystery of Vintners_;[279] but although technical works may be silent, the poets vie with the dramatists in extolling its exhilarating effects--effects surely perceptible in the witty, careless, graceful verse with which the epoch abounds. John Oldham--who, after passing his early years as a schoolmaster, was lured into becoming, in the words of his biographer, 'at once a votary of Bacchus and Venus' by the patronage of Rochester, Dorset, and Sedley in 1681, and who realised the fable of the pot of brass and the pot of earthenware by dying from the effects of the company he kept two years later--has given a list of the wines in vogue in his day: 'Let wealthy merchants, when they dine, Run o'er their witty names of wine: Their chests of Florence and their Mont Alchine, Their Mants, Champaigns, Chablees, Frontiniacks tell; Their aums of Hock, of Backrag [Bacharach] and Mosell.'[280] He gives the wines of our 'sweet enemy' a high position, too, in his _Dithyrambick, spoken by a Drunkard_, who is made to exclaim, 'Were France the next, this round Bordeau shall swallow, Champaign, Langou [L'Anjou], and Burgundy shall follow.'[281] Butler makes the hero of his immortal satire prepared to follow the old Roman fashion with regard to his lady's name, and to 'Drink ev'ry letter on't in stum, And make it brisk Champaign become;'[282] and speaks of routed forces having 'Recovered many a desperate campaign With Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champaign.'[283] And Sir Charles Sedley, in an apologue written towards the close of the century, tells how a doctor of his day was sorely troubled by the unreasonable lives led by his patients, until 'One day he called 'em all together, And, one by one, he asked 'em whether It were not better by good diet To keep the blood and humours quiet, With toast and ale to cool their brains Than nightly fire 'em with Champains.'[284] In 1679 the peculiar ideas of political economy then prevailing led to a formal prohibition of the importation of French wines, and the consequent substitution in their place of those of Portugal. One can imagine the consternation of the 'beaux' and 'sparks' at this fatal decree, and the satisfaction of the few vintners whose cellars chanced to be well stored with the forbidden vintages of France--with 'The Claret smooth, red as the lips we press In sparkling fancy while we drain the bowl; The mellow-tasted Burgundy, and, quick As is the wit it gives, the gay Champagne.'[285] But, Port wine and prohibitions notwithstanding, men of fashion of that epoch were not entirely obliged to abandon their favourite potations, since five thousand hogsheads of French wine were surreptitiously landed on the south-west coast of England in a single year.[286] Fortunately, too, for them, the Government came to the conclusion that it was for the time being futile to fight against popular tastes, and in 1685 the obnoxious prohibition was removed, with the result that, two years later, the imports of French wine were registered as fifteen thousand tuns--that is, sixty thousand hogsheads.[287] [Illustration] On the outbreak of hostilities with France in 1689, the import of French wines received a serious check, and as they vanished from the revenue returns, so Champagne began to disappear from the social board and the literature of the day. Strange to say, however, it was not only the favourite wine of William III., but of his dethroned father-in-law, James II. The red wines of the province of Champagne had always found a ready sale in Flanders and the Low Countries,[288] and quickened the minds of the stout seamen who fought against Blake and Rupert. The variety produced from the Beaune grape at Vertus was the one patronised by Macaulay's pet hero, the hook-nosed Dutchman,[289] whilst the exile of St. Germain seems to have been more catholic in his tastes.[290] Eagerly must the _gourmets_ of the day, when, 'if we did not love the French, we coveted their wines,'[291] have hailed the return of a peace which permitted them not only to indulge in their old favourites, but to welcome a new attraction in the shape of sparkling Champagne. The term 'sparkling' as applied to wine did not at the outset necessarily mean effervescing, as in one of Farquhar's comedies we find Roebuck comparing himself to 'a bumper of Claret, smiling and sparkling.'[292] Towards the close of the century, however, we meet with sure proof of the advent of the delectable beverage with which the worthy cellarer of Hautvillers was the first to endow droughty humanity. The contemporary dramatists were ever on the alert to shoot Folly as she flew. The stage was really the mirror of that time, and those who wrote for it seized on every passing whim, fashion, or fancy of the day. The introduction of a new wine was certainly not to be missed by them, and the recently discovered _vin mousseux_ of Dom Perignon is plainly referred to in Farquhar's aptly-named comedy, _Love and a Bottle_, produced in 1698, just after the Peace of Ryswick had allowed the reopening of trade with France. The second scene of act ii. represents the lodgings of Mockmode, the country squire, who aims at being 'a beau,' and who is discovered in close confabulation with his landlady, the Widow Bullfinch: '_Mock._ But what's most modish for beverage now? For I suppose the fashion of that always alters with the clothes. _W. Bull._ The tailors are the best judges of that; but Champaign, I suppose. _Mock._ Is Champaign a tailor? Methinks it were a fitter name for a wig-maker. I think they call my wig a campaign. _W. Bull._ You're clear out, sir--clear out. Champaign is a fine liquor, which all great beaux drink to make 'em witty. _Mock._ Witty! O, by the universe, I must be witty! I'll drink nothing else; I never was witty in my life. Here, Club, bring us a bottle of what d'ye call it--the witty liquor.' The Widow having retired, Club, Mockmode's servant, reënters with a bottle and glasses. '_Mock._ Is that the witty liquor? Come, fill the glasses.... But where's the wit now, Club? Have you found it? _Club._ Egad, master, I think 'tis a very good jest. _Mock._ What? _Club._ Why, drinking. You'll find, master, that this same gentleman in the straw doublet, this same Will o' the Wisp, is a wit at the bottom. Here, here, master, how it puns and quibbles in the glass![293] _Mock._ By the universe, now I have it; the wit lies in the jingling! All wit consists most in jingling. Hear how the glasses rhyme to one another.... I fancy this same wine is all sold at Will's Coffee-house.' Here we have a palpable hit at the source of inspiration indulged in by many of the wits and rhymesters who gathered round 'glorious John Dryden' within the hallowed walls of that famous rendezvous. And likely enough, when they 'were all at supper, all in good humour, Champaign was the word, and wit flew about the room like a pack of losing cards.'[294] Farquhar seems, above all others, to have hailed the new wine with pleasure. We all remember the 'red Burgundy' which saves Mirabel from his perilous position in the cut-throats' den; but the flighty hero of the _Inconstant_ is equally enthusiastic over sparkling wine when he exclaims: 'Give me the plump Venetian, brisk and sanguine, that smiles upon me like the glowing sun, and meets my lips like sparkling wine, her person shining as the glass, and spirit like the foaming liquor.'[295] The benignant influence of the beverage is, moreover, referred to by Farquhar in his epilogue to the _Constant Couple_, where, in alluding to the critics, it is said that 'To coffee some retreat to save their pockets, Others, more generous, damn the play at Locket's; But there, I hope, the author's fears are vain, Malice ne'er spoke in generous Champain.'[296] Further, he makes Benjamin Wouldbe exclaim: 'Show me that proud stoick that can bear success and Champain; philosophy can support us in hard fortune, but who can have patience in prosperity?'[297] Farquhar shows his usual keen observation of the minutest features of the life of his day in his allusion to the flask--the pear-shaped _flacon_ in which Champagne made its _entrée_ into fashionable life.[298] Archer, in his ditty on 'trifles,' thus warbles: 'A flask of Champaign, people think it A trifle, or something as bad; But if you'll contrive how to drink it, You'll find it no trifle, egad!'[299] Congreve, in evident reference to the still wine, thus writes to Mr. Porter, husband of the celebrated actress, from Calais, August 11, 1700: 'Here is admirable Champaign for twelvepence a quart, as good Burgundy for fifteenpence; and yet I have virtue enough to resolve to leave this place to-morrow for St. Omers, where the same wine is half as dear again, and may be not quite so good.'[300] Champagne suffered like other French wines from the War of Succession and the Methuen Treaty, by which the Government strove to pour Port wine down the throats of the people. The poets and satirists, supported by Dean Aldrich, 'the Apostle of Bacchus;' the miserly Dr. Ratcliffe, who ascribed all diseases to the lack of French wines, and imputed the badness of the vintages he was wont to place upon his table to the difficulty he experienced in obtaining them; the jovial Portman Seymour; the rich 'smell-feast' Pereira and General Churchill, Marlborough's brother, together with a host of 'bottle companions,' lawyers, and physicians, united to fight against this attempt.[301] They would drink their old favourites, in spite of treaties, and would praise them as they deserved; and means were found to gratify their wishes. According to official returns, the nominal importation of French wines fell in 1701 to a trifle over two thousand tons; and though this quantity was only once exceeded up to 1786, the influence of a steady demand, a short sea-passage, an extensive coast-line, and a ridiculously inefficient preventive service in aid of the high duty need to be taken into consideration. The contraband traders of the beginning of the century smuggled French wine into England, just as they continued to do at a later period into Scotland and Ireland, when the taste for ardent spirits which sprang up in the Georgian era rendered the surreptitious import of 'Nantz' and 'Geneva' the more profitable transaction as regarded England. Farquhar throws light on one method pursued when Colonel Standard hands Alderman Smuggler his pocket-book, which he had dropped, with the remark: 'It contains an account of some secret practices in your merchandising, amongst the rest, the counterpart of an agreement with a correspondent at Bordeaux about transporting French wine in Spanish casks.'[302] That the Champenois were themselves aware of the appreciation in which their wine was held in England is shown by a passage in Coffin's _Campania vindicata_. Writing in 1712, the year before the ratification of the Treaty of Utrecht, he calls on the Britons in presence of returning peace to cross the seas, and instead of lavishing their wealth to pleasure blood-stained Mars, to fill their ships with the treasures of the Remois Bacchus, and bear home these precious spoils instead of fatal trophies.[303] Addison, referring to one source whence French wines were derived, remarks: 'There is in this City a certain fraternity of Chymical Operators who work underground, in holes, caverns, and dark retirements, to conceal their mysteries from the eyes and observation of mankind. These subterraneous Philosophers are daily employed in the Transmigration of Liquors, and, by the power of Magical Drugs and Incantations, raise under the streets of _London_ the choicest products of the hills and valleys of _France_. They can squeeze _Bourdeaux_ out of a _Sloe_, and draw _Champagne_ from an _Apple_.'[304] He tells us that 'the person who appeared against them was a Merchant, who had by him a great magazine of wines, that he had laid in before the war: but these Gentlemen (as he said) had so vitiated the nation's palate, that no man could believe his to be _French_, because it did not taste like what they sold for such.' For the defence it was urged that 'they were under a necessity of making Claret if they would keep open their doors, it being the nature of Mankind to love everything that is Prohibited.'[305] The enquiry, 'And where would your beaux have Champaign to toast their mistresses were it not for the merchant?'[306] is from a panegyrist of the more legitimate school of trade. Altogether it is tolerably certain that Champagne--genuine or fictitious, from grape or gooseberry--played a more important part in the conviviality of the early portion of the eighteenth century than might be supposed from the imports of the epoch, whilst there is little doubt but that it helped to inspire some of the finest productions of the Augustan age of English literature. Gay places it first amongst the wines offered to a party of guests entering a tavern, making the drawer exclaim: 'Name, sirs, the wine that most invites your taste, Champaign or Burgundy, or Florence pure, Or Hock antique, or Lisbon new or old, Bourdeaux, or neat French wine, or Alicant.'[307] This reference to Champagne most likely relates to the still wine; but it is probably the sparkling variety which is alluded to in the verses which Gay addressed to Pope on the completion of the _Iliad_ in 1720, and wherein he represents General Wilkinson thus apostrophising as the ship conveying the poet passes Greenwich: 'Come in, my friends, here shall ye dine and lie; And here shall breakfast and shall dine again, And sup and breakfast on (if ye comply), For I have still some dozens of Champaign.'[308] Witty Mat Prior, poet and diplomatist, was always ready to manifest his contempt for the heavy fluid with which the Methuen treaty deluged our island in place of the light fresh-tasting wines of France that had cheered and inspired his earlier sallies. Writing whilst in custody on a charge of treason between 1715 and 1717, and referring to the mind under the name of Alma, he tells us how 'By nerves about our palate placed, She likewise judges of the taste, Else (dismal thought!) our warlike men Might drink thick Port for fine Champagne.'[309] He likewise inculcates a lesson of philosophy, especially suited to his own situation at that moment, when he remarks of fortune: 'I know we must both fortunes try, And bear our evils, wet or dry. Yet, let the goddess smile or frown, Bread we shall eat, or white or brown; And in a cottage or a court Drink fine Champagne or muddled Port.'[310] There were many, no doubt, ready to emulate the hero of one of his minor pieces, and 'from this world to retreat As full of Champagne as an egg's full of meat.'[311] Shenstone gives expression to much the same sentiment as Prior when he found 'his warmest welcome at an inn,' and wrote on the window-pane at Henley: ''Tis here with boundless power I reign, And every health which I begin Converts dull Port to bright Champagne; Such freedom crowns it at an inn.'[312] [Illustration] Vanbrugh, whose writings were of a decidedly lighter character than the edifices he erected, probably had recourse to Champagne to assist him in the composition of the former, and neglected it when planning the designs for the latter. These, indeed, would seem to have been conceived under the influence of some such 'heavy muddy stuff' as the 'Norfolk nog,' which Lady Headpiece reproaches her husband for allowing their son and heir to indulge in, saying: 'Well, I wonder, Sir Francis, you will encourage that lad to swill such beastly lubberly liquor. If it were Burgundy or Champaign, something might be said for't; they'd perhaps give him some art and spirit.'[313] Swift has given in his _Journal to Stella_ extensive information as to the wines in vogue in London in 1710-13. He seems for his own part to have been, as far as nature permitted him, an accommodating toper, indulging, in addition to Champagne, in Tokay, Portugal, Florence, Burgundy, Hermitage, 'Irish wine,' _i.e._ Claret, 'right French wine,' Congreve's 'nasty white wine' that gave him the heartburn, and Sir William Read's 'admirable punch.' He acknowledges that the more fashionable beverages of the day were not to his taste. 'I love,' writes he, 'white Portugal wine better than Claret, Champaign, or Burgundy. I have a sad vulgar appetite.'[314] Still, while observing due moderation, he did not entirely shun the lighter potations with which the table of the luxurious and licentious St. John was so freely supplied. On one occasion he writes: 'I dined to-day by appointment with Lord Bolingbroke; but they fell to drinking so many Spanish healths in Champaign, that I stole away to the ladies and drank tea till eight.'[315] And on another we find him refusing to allow his host to 'drink one drop of Champaign or Burgundy without water.'[316] Our countrymen do not appear to have taken heed of the controversy regarding the respective merits of Champagne and Burgundy, but thankfully accepted the goods that the gods and the sunny soil of France provided them. The accusation, however, banded about by the partisans of these rival vintages, of their tendency to produce gout, had apparently been accepted as gospel truth over here in the first decade of the century. Thus the Dean notes that he 'dined with Mr. Secretary St. John, and staid till seven, but would not drink his Champaign and Burgundy, for fear of the gout.'[317] When suffering from a rheumatic pain he displays commendable caution at dinner with Mr. Domville, only drinking 'three or four glasses of Champaign by perfect teasing,'[318] for fear of aggravating his suffering. He is prompt, however, to acknowledge himself mistaken: 'I find myself disordered with a pain all round the small of my back, which I imputed to Champaign I had drunk, but find it to have been only my new cold.'[319] The Dean does not appear to have been the only sufferer, for we find him writing: 'I called this evening to see Mr. Secretary, who had been very ill with the gravel and pains in his back, by Burgundy and Champaign, added to the sitting up all night at business; I found him drinking tea, while the rest were at Champaign, and was very glad of it.'[320] Even Pope, the perforcedly abstemious, was lured into similar excesses by the young Earl of Warwick and Colley Cibber, during his visits to London, whilst engaged on his translation of the _Iliad_, and writes to Congreve, 'I sit up till two o'clock over Burgundy and Champagne.'[321] A proof of the popularity of French wines at this period is found in the fact that in 1713, the year of the Peace of Utrecht, the registered imports, despite high duties, reached 2551 tuns, an amount not exceeded till 1786. The Treaty of Commerce, with which Bolingbroke (whose partiality to Champagne we have seen) and M. de Torcy sought to supplement that of Peace, having fallen through, the tavern-keepers put such a price on these wines that it was only members of the fashionable world who could afford to have what was termed 'a good Champagne stomach.'[322] Their vogue is confirmed by the order given to her servant by a lady aspiring to take a leading position in the _beau monde_ to 'go to Mr. Mixture, the wine-merchant, and order him to send in twelve dozen of his best Champaign, twelve dozen of Burgundy, and twelve dozen of Hermitage,'[323] as the entire stock for her cellar. 'Good wine' was indeed, in those days, 'a gentleman.' [Illustration: 'GOOD WINE A GENTLEMAN.'] The unvarying rule that the fashions set by the most select are inevitably aped by the most degraded, so far as lies in their power, is exemplified in the Tavern Scene of Hogarth's _Rake's Progress_, where the table at which the hero and his _inamoratas_ are seated is set out with the tall wine-glasses wherein 'Champaign goes briskly round.'[324] [Illustration: TAVERN SCENE FROM 'THE RAKE'S PROGRESS.'] The Jacobites, faithful to their traditional ally, continued to toast 'the King over the water' by passing glasses charged with the sparkling wine of France across a bowl filled to the brim with the pure element. The middle classes clung to their beer, or at most indulged in Port and punch; whilst the lower orders seem to have become seized with that insane passion for ardent spirits which Hogarth satirised in his 'Gin Lane,' and hailed with glee Sir Robert Walpole's 'attempt, Superior to Canary or Champagne, Geneva salutiferous to enhance.'[325] [Illustration: 'THE KING OVER THE WATER.'] [Illustration] The registered imports of the wines of France--though figures in this respect are, we admit, exceedingly deceptive--show a continuous falling off, which reached its lowest ebb in 1746, during war time; and we may be certain that when, after supper, 'Champagne was the word for two whole hours by Shrewsbury clock,'[326] it was at the cost of a pretty penny. Although the recorded imports of French wines show but little improvement with the return of peace in 1748, we gather from other sources that the Champagne of 1749 met with a ready market over here, and find Bertin du Rocheret writing exultingly to his friend, the Marquis de Calvières, that the Champenois were making the English pay the cost of the war. The voluminous correspondence of Bertin du Rocheret gives some curious information as to the manner in which the Champagne trade was carried on with England during the second quarter of the eighteenth century. From 1725 to 1754 he was in constant communication with Mr. James Chabane, who seems to have been the Court wine-merchant, and to whom he despatched at first ten, but during the latter portion of their transactions seldom more than four, pièces of wine annually during the winter months.[327] As regards the particular vintage consumed in England, a preference evidently existed for that of Ay, though it really appears as if Bertin was wont to introduce under this name the then far cheaper growths of Avize. Such, at any rate, seems to have been the case with the parcel of wine divided, in 1754, between King George in London and King Stanislas at Nancy. Referring to the wines of Hautvillers and Sillery, Bertin writes to Chabane in 1731, that a year's notice must be given in advance to obtain them. A _liquoreux_ wine was then preferred, as in 1732 he remarks, respecting the yield of the preceding year, that the English are as mad after _liqueur_ as the French; and it is evident that the taste continued, as in 1744 he announces the departure for London of eleven poinçons _liquoreux_. Not only was Chabane accustomed to bottle these wines, but while doing so was able to insure to them a semi-sparkling character. With this view Bertin tells him, in 1731, that he must not keep them in cask after the three _sèves_, or motions of the sap of April, June, or August, except in the case of a pièce from 'the _clos_' reserved 'for the supply of the Court,' and intended to be drunk as still wine. Some wine despatched in 1754 is recommended to be bottled during the first quarter of the moon.[328] In addition to the wine thus sent in casks, Bertin was also accustomed to send his correspondent a certain quantity in bottles. In 1725 he quotes for him 'flacons blancs mousseux liqueur,' at from 30 to 50 sols, and 'ambrés non-mousseux sablant,' at 25 sols. These flasks were all despatched to Dunkirk or into Holland, whence they were smuggled to their ultimate destination, for the introduction of wine in bottles into England was rigidly prohibited until the close of 1745, when it was legalised by Act of Parliament.[329] Horace Walpole, who deals with men rather than manners, with sayings rather than doings, and whose forte is epigram and not description, has little to tell us about the drinking customs of his day. The strictly temperate regimen that marked his later years, and rendered him unfit for mere convivial gatherings, extended to his writings, and he seldom permits his pen to expatiate on those pleasures in which he sought no share. Even in his letters from Reims, written in 1739, when he was doing the grand tour, he omits all mention of the wine for which that city is famed. Still he incidentally furnishes a few instances of the esteem in which Champagne was held by the upper classes in the middle of the eighteenth century. In a letter to George Montague, dated June 23, 1750, he describes how Lord Granby joined his party at Vauxhall whilst suffering considerably under the influence of the Champagne he had consumed at 'Jenny's Whim,' a noted tavern at Chelsea; and writing to Sir Horace Mann, a year later, he says that the then chief subjects of conversation in London were the two Miss Gunnings and an extravagant dinner at White's. [Illustration: SCENE AT VAUXHALL GARDENS (From an engraving after a drawing by Gravelot).] 'The dinner was a frolic of seven young men, who bespoke it to the utmost extent of expense; one article was a tart made of duke cherries, from a hothouse; and another, that they tasted but one glass out of each bottle of Champagne. The bill of fare has got into print, and with good people has produced the apprehension of another earthquake.'[330] The Earl of March, afterwards 'Old Q,' in a letter to Walpole's friend, George Selwyn, in November 1766, writes: 'I have not yet received some Champaign that Monsieur de Prissieux has sent me.'[331] And we find Horace Walpole's fair foe, that eighteenth-century exemplar of strong-minded womanhood, Lady Mary Wortley Montague, whose letters indicate a _penchant_ for Burgundy, acknowledging in verse the exhilarating effects of Champagne. Of the _beaux_ of 1721 she says that 'They sigh, not from the heart but from the brain, Vapours of vanity and strong Champagne.'[332] Better known by far are her oft-quoted lines, 'But when the long hours of the public are past, And we meet with Champagne and a chicken at last, May every fond pleasure that moment endear, Be banished afar both discretion and fear,'[333] which drew from Byron the terror-stricken comment, 'What say you to such a supper with such a woman?'[334] [Illustration] [Illustration] During the third quarter of the eighteenth century a cloud dims the lustre of Champagne. It was then looked upon by a vast majority as only a fit accompaniment to masquerades, ridottos, ultra-fashionable dinners, and Bacchanalian suppers. 'The Champaign made some eyes sparkle that nothing else could brighten,'[335] says the contemporary account of one of those scenes of shameless revelry held under the title of masquerades at the Pantheon, and the orgies that, under the auspices of Mrs. Cornelys, disgraced Carlisle House were mainly inspired by the consumption of the same wine. The citizens of the Georgian era, who had lost the tastes of their fathers, hated French wines simply because they were French; and the hundred thousand gallons imported on an average annually from 1750 to 1786 were entirely consumed amongst the upper or the dissipated classes. Though smuggling was still looked upon as patriotic, if not loyal, those engaged in it had discovered that, thanks to the combined effects of duty and demand, Nantes brandy and Hollands gin paid better. What, indeed, is to be thought of the taste of an era that produced poets whose muse sought inspiration in punch, and who had the sublime audacity to extol the rum of the West Indies above the produce of 'Marne's flowery banks'?[336] Only a few of the higher-class men, however, engaged in literature and art seem to have retained a preference for French wine. The accounts of the Literary Club established by Sir Joshua Reynolds show the average consumption at each sitting to have been half a bottle of Port and a bottle of Claret per head. Johnson drank Port mixed with sugar from about 1752 to 1764; became a total abstainer until 1781, and then seems to have given the preference to Madeira. [Illustration: THE LITERARY CLUB.] In contemporaneous comedy we are pretty sure to find the mirror held up to fashion, if not to Nature; and turning to the playwrights of that day, it is easy to cull a few confirmatory excerpts. Thus we have Sterling, the ambitious British merchant, in order to do honour to his noble guests, preparing to 'give them such a glass of Champaign as they never drank in their lives; no, not at a duke's table.'[337] While Lord Minikin, the peer of fashion, makes his entrance on the stage, exclaiming: 'O my head! I must absolutely change my wine-merchant; I cannot taste his Champaigne without disordering myself for a week.'[338] On Miss Tittup inquiring if his depression is due to losses at cards, he replies, 'No, faith, our Champaigne was not good yesterday.'[339] Jessamy, his lordship's valet, profits of course by so aristocratic an example; and when speaking of his exploits at the masquerade, says, 'I was in tip-top spirits, and had drunk a little too freely of the Champaigne, I believe.'[340] With Philip the butler, 'Burgundy is the word,' and from the choicest vintages of his master's cellar he places on the table 'Claret, Burgundy, and Champaign; and a bottle of Tokay for the ladies;'[341] while Port is characterised by the Duke's servant as 'only fit for a dram.'[342] Mrs. Circuit presses the guests at a clandestinely-given repast to 'taste the Champagne;' and her husband, the Sergeant, is surprised on his return home to find that they have been so indulging: 'Delicate eating, in truth; and the wine [_Drinks_] Champagne, as I live! Must have t'other glass ... delicate white wine, indeed! I like it better every glass.'[343] Such is his comment. The effects of the wine are characterised in the following fashion by Garrick, when Sparkish, entering, according to the stage directions, 'fuddled,' declares that 'when a man has wit, and a great deal of it, Champaign gives it a double edge, and nothing can withstand it; 'tis a lighted match to gunpowder; the mine is sprung, and the poor devils are tossed heels uppermost in an instant.'[344] [Illustration: LORD MINIKIN.] We greet, too, what was perhaps the first appearance of a joke now grown venerable in its antiquity in a farce of Foote's, the scene of which is laid at Bath. He introduces us to a party of pseudo-invalids devoting their whole time and attention to conviviality, recruiting their debilitated stomachs with turtle and venison, and alternating Bath waters with the choicest vintages, so that the hero Racket is fain to observe to one of them, 'My dear Sir Kit, how often has Dr. Carawitchet told you that your rich food and Champaigne would produce nothing but poor health and real pain?'[345] And how many gentlemen in difficulties have not since followed the example set by Harry Dornton in the spunging-house, and ordered, as a consolation, 'a bottle of Champagne and two rummers'![346] Turning from fancy to fact, we find Sir Edward Barry furnishing some particulars respecting the Champagne wines consumed in England during the latter half of the last century.[347] He informs us at the outset that 'the wines of Champaign and Burgundy are made with more care than any other French wines; and the vaults in which the former are preserved are better than any other in France. These wines, from their finer texture and peculiar flavour, cannot be adulterated without the fraud being easily discovered, and are therefore generally imported pure, or by proper care may be certainly procured in that state.' His remarks evidently refer to the still wines, as he proceeds to explain that 'the Champaign River Wines are more delicate and pale than those which are distinguished from them by the name of Mountain gray Wines,' the latter being more durable and better suited for exportation, whilst the former, if allowed to remain too long in the cask, acquire a taste from the wood, although keeping in flasks from four to six years without harm. Referring to the taste of the day, he explains that 'among the River Wines the Auvillers and Epernay are most esteemed, and among the Mountain Wines the Selery and St. Thyery, and in general such as are of the colour of a partridge's eye. These are likewise distinguished for their peculiar grateful pungency and balsamic softness, which is owing to the refined saline principle which prevails more in them than in the Burgundy Wines, on which account they are less apt to affect the head, communicate a milder heat, and more freely pervade and pass through the vessels of the body.... To drink Champaign Wines in the greatest perfection, the flask should be taken from the vault a quarter of an hour before it is drunk, and immersed in ice-water, with the cork so loose in it as is sufficient to give a free passage to the air, and yet prevent too great an evaporation of its spirituous parts.' [Illustration: HIGH LIVING AT BATH (After Rowlandson, in the _New Bath Guide_).] The foregoing practice still obtains with Sillery, classed by Barry as the first of the Mountain growths, and in the highest favour in England throughout the remainder of the century. Regarding sparkling wine, of which he was evidently no admirer, he adds: 'For some years the French and English have been particularly fond of the sparkling frothy Champaigns. The former have almost entirely quitted that depraved taste, nor does it now so much prevail here. They used to mix some ingredients to give them that quality; but this is unnecessary, as they are too apt spontaneously to run into that state; but whoever chooses to have such Wines may be assured that they will acquire it by bottling them any time after the vintage before the month of the next May; and the most sure rule to prevent that disposition is not to bottle them before the November following. This rule has been confirmed by repeated experiments.' On the signature of the Treaty of Peace with France in 1783, it had been stipulated that a Treaty of Commerce should likewise be concluded; and in 1786, under the auspices of Pitt, a treaty of this character was made, the first article providing that 'The wines of France imported directly from France into Great Britain shall in no case pay any higher duties than those which the wines of Portugal now pay.' Pitt, spite of his well known _penchant_ for Port, had yet a sneaking liking for Champagne, arising no doubt from his early familiarity with the wine when he went to Reims to study, after leaving the University of Cambridge. It was with Champagne that he was primed on the memorable occasion when he, Lord Chancellor Thurlow, and Mr. Secretary Dundas galloped after dusk through an open turnpike-gate without paying toll, and only just missed receiving the contents of a loaded blunderbuss, which the turnpike man, fancying they were highwaymen, fired after them. The party had been dining with the President of the Board of Trade at Addiscombe, and a rhymester of the epoch commemorated the incident in the following lines: 'How as Pitt wandered darkling o'er the plain, His reason drowned in Jenkinson's Champagne, A rustic's hand, but righteous fate withstood, Had shed a premier's for a robber's blood.' [Illustration: DUNDAS AND PITT AS SILENUS AND BACCHUS (After Gilray).] [Illustration: WILLIAM PITT (After Gilray).] Tickell has noted the appreciation of Brooks' Champagne shown by Pitt's great rival in the lines addressed to Sheridan, and purporting to be an invitation to supper from Fox. The illustrious member for Westminster promises his guest that 'Derby shall send, if not his plate, his cooks, And know I've bought the best Champaign from Brooks.'[348] Brooks' Club enjoyed a high reputation for its Champagne, and we find Fighting Fitzgerald emptying three bottles there without assistance, the same evening on which he bullied the members into electing him.[349] The year after the Treaty of Commerce was signed, we have an anonymous writer remarking[350] that in time of peace the English drew large quantities of wine from Bordeaux and Nantes, and that the other French wines they were in the habit of consuming were those of Mantes, Burgundy, and Champagne, shipped respectively from Rouen, Dunkirk, and Calais. Arthur Young, writing at the same time, remarks, _apropos_ of Champagne, that the trade with England 'used to be directly from Epernay; but now the wine is sent to Calais, Boulogne, Montreuil, and Guernsey, in order to be passed into England they suppose here by smuggling. This may explain our Champagne not being so good as formerly.'[351] It is to be hoped that neither Arthur Young nor other connoisseurs of Champagne had been enticed into drinking as the genuine article any of the produce of the vineyard which the Hon. Charles Hamilton had planted with the Auvernat grape near Cobham, in Surrey, and which was said to yield a wine 'resembling Champagne.'[352] The reduction of duty consequent upon the treaty as a matter of course largely increased the importation of French wine. Respecting the taste for Champagne then prevailing in England, and the price the wine commanded, a few interesting particulars are afforded by the early correspondence and account-books of Messrs. Moët & Chandon of Epernay, which we have courteously been permitted to inspect. From these we find that in October 1788 the Chevalier Colebrook, writing in French to the firm from Bath, asks that seventy-two bottles of Champagne may be sent to his friend, the Hon. John Butler of Molesworth-street, Dublin, 'who, if content with the wine, will become a very good customer, being rich, keeping a good house, and receiving many amateurs of _vin de Champagne_.' The writer is no doubt the 'M. Collebrock' to whom the firm shortly afterwards forward fifty bottles of '_vin non mousseux_, 1783,' on his own account. Messrs. Carbonnell, Moody, & Walker, predecessors of the well-known existing firm of Carbonnell & Co., London, in a letter dated November 1788, and also written in French, say: 'If you can supply us with some Champagne of a very good body, not too much charged with liqueur, but with an excellent flavour, and not at all _moussu_, we beg you to send two ten dozen baskets. Also, if you have any dry Champagne of very good flavour, solidity, and excellent body, send two baskets of the same size.' The taste of the day was evidently for a full-bodied non-sparkling wine; and this is confirmed by Jeanson, Messrs. Moët's traveller in England, who writes from London in May 1790: 'How the taste of this country has altered within the last ten years! Almost everywhere they ask for a dry wine; but they want a wine so vinous and so strong, that there is hardly anything but Sillery that will satisfy them.' Additional confirmation is found in a letter, written from London in May 1799 to Messrs. Moët, by a Mr. John Motteux, complaining of delay in the delivery of a parcel of wine said to have been sent off by way of Havre, and very likely destined to be surreptitiously introduced into England _viâ_ Guernsey. He asks for a further supply of Sillery, if its safe arrival can be guaranteed, and remarks, 'There is nothing to be compared to Sillery when it is genuine; it must not have the least sweetness nor _mousse_.'[353] During the great French war, patriotism and increased duties might have been expected to check the import of French wines; yet, if statistics are worth anything, the reverse would appear to have been the case. The registered imports, which from 1770 to 1786 had fluctuated between 80,000 and 125,000 gallons, rose during the last fourteen years of the century to an average of 550,000 gallons per annum. In those fighting, rollicking, hard-drinking times, when it was a sacred social duty to toast 'great George our King' on every possible occasion, Champagne continued to be 'the wine of fashion.' The sparkling variety was terribly costly, no doubt, and was often doled out, as Mr. Walker relates, 'like drops of blood.'[354] But whilst the stanch admirers of Port might profess to despise Champagne as effeminate, and the 'loyal volunteers' condemn it as the produce of a foeman's soil, there were plenty to sing in honour of 'The Fair of Britain's Isle:' 'Fill, fill the glass, to beauty charge, And banish care from every breast; In brisk Champaign we'll quick discharge, A toast shall give the wine a zest.'[355] Indeed, the greatest of England's naval heroes was not insensible to the attractions of this gift from 'our sweet enemy France.' In October 1800 Nelson, together with Sir William and Lady Hamilton, was a guest of Mr. Elliot, the British Resident at Dresden. At dinner Lady Hamilton drank more Champagne than the narrator of this little incident imagined it was possible for a woman to consume, and inspired thereby, insisted on favouring the company with her imitations of classical statuary. Nelson thereupon got uproarious, and went on emptying bumper after bumper of the same fluid in honour of the fair Emma, and swearing that she was superior to Siddons. The host kept striving 'to prevent the further effusion of Champagne,' but did not succeed till Sir William in his turn had astonished all present with a display of his social talents. The grave diplomatist lay down on his back, with his arms and legs in the air, and in this position bounded all round the room like a ball, with his stars and ribbons flying around him.[356] If we may give credit to Tom Moore, 'the best wigged prince in Christendom,' who was subsequently to 'd---- Madeira as gouty,' and bring Sherry into fashion, preferred stronger potations than those produced on the banks of the Marne. In one of the poet's political skits the Prince is introduced soliloquising _à la_ Jemmy Thompson-- 'O Roman Punch! O potent Curaçoa! O Maraschino! Maraschino O! Delicious drams'[357]-- and describing his favourite luncheon as 'good mutton cutlets and strong curaçoa.'[358] Nevertheless, the First Gentleman in Europe did consume Champagne; but it was concentrated in the form of punch, especially devised for him, and indulged in by him in company with Barrymore, Hanger, and their fellows.[359] His sometime model and subsequent victim, poor Brummell, is said to have put the wine to a still more ignoble use. One day a youthful beau approached the great master in the arts of dress and deportment, and said, 'Permit me to ask you where you get your blacking?' 'Ah,' replied Brummell, gazing complacently at his boots, 'my blacking positively ruins me. I will tell you in confidence it is made with the finest Champagne.'[360] Probably the great dandy was merely quizzing his interlocutor, though such an act of extravagance would have been a pull on even the longest purse in those days, 'your bottle of Champagne in the year 1814 costing you a guinea.'[361] [Illustration: THE PRINCE REGENT (After Gilray).] As to the Prince Regent's brothers, we know that the Duke of York was such a powerful toper, that 'six bottles of Claret after dinner scarce made a perceptible change in his countenance,'[362] and remember the Duke of Clarence making his appearance at the table of the Royal household at Windsor, and getting so helplessly drunk on Champagne as to be utterly incapable of keeping his promise to open the ball that evening with his sister Mary.[363] Two prominent orators of that day are credited with _mots_ upon Champagne. Curran said, _apropos_ of the rapid but transient intoxication produced by this wine, that 'Champagne made a runaway rap at a man's head;' while Canning maintained that any man who said he really liked dry Champagne simply lied. After Waterloo, although a few _gourmets_ continued to prefer the still wine, sparkling Champagne became the almost universally accepted variety. Nevertheless, Henderson, while noting that 'by Champagne wine is usually understood a sparkling or frothy liquor,' gives the foremost place to the wine of Sillery, which, he remarks, 'has always been in much request in England, probably on account of its superior strength and durable quality.' He extols the Ay wine as 'an exquisite liquor, lighter and sweeter than the Sillery, and accompanied by a delicate flavour and aroma somewhat analogous to that of the pine-apple.'[364] The poets of the first half of the present century have hardly done justice to Champagne. Tom Moore, the most Anacreontic of them all, although ready, like his Grecian prototype, to 'pledge the universe in wine,' the merits of which he was continually chanting in the abstract, has seldom been so invidious as to particularise any especial vintage. Champagne, the wine of all others best fitted to inspire his bright and sparkling lyrics, has received but scant attention in his earlier productions. Bob Fudge, writing from Paris in 1818, is made to speak approvingly of Beaune and Chambertin, but only mentions Champagne as a vehicle in which to _sauter_ kidneys;[365] and in the _Sceptic_ it is simply brought in to point a moral respecting the senses: 'Habit so mars them, that the Russian swain Will sigh for train-oil while he sips Champagne.'[366] In two instances only the poet who sang in such lively numbers of woman and wine pointedly refers to the vintage of the Champagne. One is when he says: 'If ever you've seen a party Relieved from the presence of Ned, How instantly joyous and hearty They've grown when the damper was fled. You may guess what a gay piece of work, What delight to Champagne it must be, To get rid of its bore of a cork, And come sparkling to you, love, and me.'[367] And his description of a summer _fête_ is indeed 'a mere terrestrial strain Inspired by naught but pink Champagne;'[368] such as might be penned 'While as the sparkling juice of France High in the crystal brimmers flowed, Each sunset ray, that mixed by chance With the wine's diamond, showed How sunbeams may be taught to dance;'[369] with the final result that 'Thus did Fancy and Champagne Work on the sight their dazzling spells, Till nymphs that looked at noonday plain Now brightened in the gloom to belles.'[370] Moore's Diary, however, proves that if he did not care to praise the wine in verse, it was not for want of opportunities of becoming acquainted with it. Witness his 'odd dinner in a borrowed room' at Horace Twiss's in Chancery-lane, with the strangely incongruous accompaniments of 'Champagne, pewter spoons, and old Lady Cork.'[371] As to that most convivial of songsters, Captain Charles Morris, poet-laureate of the Ancient Society of Beefsteaks, he labours under a similar reproach. Though he has filled several hundred octavo pages of his _Lyra Urbanica_ with verses in praise of wine, the liquor with which he crowns 'the mantling goblet,' 'the fancy-stirring bowl,' or 'the soul-subliming cup,' usually figures under some such fanciful designation as 'the inspiring juice,' 'the cordial of life,' or 'Bacchus' balm.' Champagne he evidently ignores as a beverage of Gallic origin, utterly unfitted for the praise of so true a Briton as himself; and the only vintage which he does condescend to mention with approbation is the favourite one of our beef-eating, hard-drinking, frog-hating forefathers, 'old Oporto' from 'the stout Lusitanian vine.' [Illustration: CAPTAIN CHARLES MORRIS (After Gilray).] Strange as it may seem, the manlier Muse of Scott used at times to dip her wing into the Champagne cup, although she has failed to express any verbal gratitude to this source of inspiration. 'In truth,' says his biographer, 'he liked no wines except sparkling Champaign and Claret; but even as to this last he was no connoisseur, and sincerely preferred a tumbler of whisky-toddy to the most precious liquid ruby that ever flowed in the cup of a prince. He rarely took any other potation when alone with his family; but at the Sunday board he circulated the Champaign briskly during dinner, and considered a pint of Claret each man's fair share afterwards.'[372] Scott himself, wearied with a round of London festivities, is impelled to write, 'I begin to tire of my gaieties. I wish for a sheep's head and whisky-toddy against all the French cookery and Champaign in the world.'[373] Lockhart, in his _Life of Scott_, notes the excellent flavour of some Champagne sent to Abbotsford by a French admirer of the Northern Wizard in return for a set of his works, and more than once incidentally refers to the presence of the wine at Scott's table on festive gatherings. Byron, who furnished in the course of his career a practical exemplification of the maxim that 'Comus all allows Champaign, dice, music, or your neighbour's spouse,'[374] did the vintage of the Marne justice in his verses. In _Don Juan_ he shows himself not insensible to the charms of 'Champagne with foaming whirls As white as Cleopatra's melted pearls.'[375] The wine, moreover, furnishes two striking comparisons in that poem--one when he observes that 'The evaporation of a joyous day Is like the last glass of Champagne, without The foam which made its virgin bumper gay;'[376] and the other, where, in his sketch of Lady Adeline Amundeville, he rejects the trite metaphor of the snow-covered volcano in favour of 'a bottle of Champagne Frozen into a very vinous ice, Which leaves few drops of that immortal rain; Yet in the very centre, past all price, About a liquid glassful will remain; And this is stronger than the strongest grape Could e'er express in its expanded shape: 'Tis the whole spirit brought to a quintessence; And thus the chilliest aspects may concentre A hidden nectar under a cold presence.'[377] Although we find Henderson remarking, in 1822, that 'the pink Champagne is less in request than the colourless, and has in fact nothing to entitle it to the preference,' yet wine of this tint continued to reappear from time to time, securing a transitory popularity from its attractive appearance, which caused it to be likened to the dying reflection of the setting sun on a clear stream. An interesting incident in connection with its advent on one of these occasions at the table of Rogers, the banker-poet, has been recorded by Mr. R. A. Tracy Gould of the American Bar. He was dining, it seems, in company with Tom Moore and John Kenyon, with Rogers at St. James's-place, when their host, who had recently received through the French Ambassador a present of a case of pink Champagne from Louis Philippe, had the first bottle of it produced at the end of the dinner. The saucer-shaped Champagne glasses were then just coming into use, and pink Champagne, which was a revived novelty in England at that moment, looked singularly beautiful in them, crowned with its snow-white foam. Kenyon, who, as Gould remarks, was nothing if not declamatory, held up his glass, and apostrophised it as follows: 'Lily on liquid roses floating! So floats yon foam o'er pink Champagne! Fain would I join such pleasant boating, And prove that ruby main, And float away on wine!' This being vociferously applauded, after a few minutes' pause he added the second verse: 'Those seas are dangerous, graybeards swear, Whose sea-beach is the goblet's brim; And here it is they drown dull Care-- But what care we for him? So we but float on wine!' On being desired to continue, Kenyon declared that he had done his part, and that it was now the turn of some one else. Moore and Rogers both claimed exemption, as being on the 'retired list' of the Parnassian army, and peremptorily demanded a contribution from the Transatlantic guest, Tracy Gould, who thereupon, with 'great diffidence,' as he tells us, delivered himself of the third and fourth stanzas: 'Gray Time shall pause and smooth his wrinkles, Bright garlands round his scythe shall twine; While sands from out his glass he sprinkles, To fill it up with wine-- With rosy sparkling wine! Thus hours shall pass which no man reckons, 'Mongst us, who, glad with mirth divine, Heed not the shadowy hand that beckons Across the sea of wine-- Of billowy gushing wine!' Kenyon then added another stanza, which suggested a final verse to the American: 'And though 'tis true they cross in pain, Who sober cross the Stygian ferry, Yet only make our Styx Champagne, And we shall cross right merry, Floating away on wine!' 'Old Charon's self shall make him mellow, Then gaily row his bark from shore; While we and every jolly fellow Hear unconcerned the oar That dips itself in wine!' By this time the inspiration and the Champagne were alike exhausted. The history of Champagne in England during the latter half of the present century may be briefly summed up in the assertion of the ever-growing popularity of the wine, and the high repute attained by certain brands, which it would be invidious to particularise. Its success in oiling the wheels of social life is so great and so universally acknowledged that its eclipse would almost threaten a collapse of our social system. We cannot open a railway, launch a vessel, inaugurate a public edifice, start a newspaper, entertain a distinguished foreigner, invite a leading politician to favour us with his views on things in general, celebrate an anniversary, or specially appeal on behalf of a benevolent institution without a banquet, and hence without the aid of Champagne, which, at the present day, is the obligatory adjunct of all such repasts. When the Municipality of London welcome the Khan of Kamschatka to our shores and to the Guildhall, Champagne flows in the proverbial buckets full. When the Master and Wardens of the Coalscuttle-Makers' Company bid the Livery to one of their periodical feasts, scandal says that even this measure is exceeded. When Sir Fusby Guttleton gives one of his noted 'little spreads' at Greenwich, are not torrents of iced 'dry' needed to quench the thirst excited by the devilled bait? Aware, too, of the unloosening effect the wine exercises upon the strings of both heart and purse, Pomposo, as chairman at the annual festival of the Decayed Muffinmongers' Asylum, is careful to see that the glasses of the guests have been well charged with it before he commences his stirring appeal on behalf of that deserving institution. Does Ingenioso wish to introduce to the notice of the British public a new heating-power or lighting-apparatus or ice-making machinery, he straightway issues cards for a private view to critics and cognoscenti, and is careful that these shall observe the merits of his invention through the medium of a glass--bubbling over with Champagne. So it is at the openings of the latest extension of the Mugby Junction Railway and of the Palatial Hotel, at the private view of the Amicable Afghans, or Tinto's new picture, or any one of Crotchet's manifold inventions. If the bidding, too, flags at a sale of shorthorns or thoroughbreds, at a wink from the auctioneer the Champagne-corks are set a-popping, and advance promptly follows advance in responsive echoes. Not less important is the part that Champagne plays in the City. Capel Crash, the great financier, literally _floats_ the concerns he deigns to 'promote' by its agency. When Consol, the millionaire, makes one of a set for rigging the market, and the 'ring' thus formed has reaped the reward of their ingenuity, does he not entertain his intimate friends with the story and with the choicest Champagne? The amount of business, moreover, transacted by the aid of the wine is incalculable. Bargains in stocks and shares, tea and sugar, cotton and corn, hemp and iron, hides and tallow, broadcloth and shoddy, are clinched by its agency. On the other hand, many a bit of sharp practice has been forgiven, many a hard bargain has been forgotten, many a smouldering resentment has been quenched for ever, and many an enmity healed and a friendship cemented, over a bottle of Champagne. [Illustration: 'I say, old fellow, how do you go to the Derby this year?' 'O, the old way--hamper-and-four.' (From a drawing by John Leech in 'Punch.')] [Illustration: AT THE DERBY (From a drawing by John Leech in 'Punch.')] The Turf is said to be our national pastime, and no one will deny the close connection existing between sport and Champagne. From the highest to the lowest of that wonderful agglomeration of individuals interested in equine matters, it is recognised as the only standard 'tipple.' Champagne goes down to the Derby in its hamper-and-four, like other pertinacious patrons of the race, and its all but ubiquitous presence on the course is warmly welcomed by thousands of thirsty visitors of very various grades. At Ascot, does H. R. H. the Prince of Wales seek to congratulate the Marquis of Hartington on his success, it is by wishing him further success in a glass of sparkling wine. Does Mr. William Kurr, welsher, desire to make the acquaintance of Mr. Druscovitch, detective, he seeks an introduction from Mr. Meiklejohn over a bottle of 'fiz.' Does the favourite horse win--quick, fill high the bowl with sparkling wine, to celebrate his triumph; does he lose, the same vintage will serve to drown our sorrows and obliterate the recollection of our losses. How many cunning _coups_, how many clever combinations, have there not been worked out in all their details over a bottle of 'Cham.' in quiet hotel-parlours at Doncaster or Newmarket! How many bets have been laid and paid in the same medium! How many a jockey has been bought, and how many a race has been sold, owing to the moral as well as physical obliquity of vision which the ingurgitation of the wine has induced! Nor should the existence of Champagne Stakes be forgotten. There are now several races of this name at different meetings; but the oldest is that established at Doncaster in 1828, and taking its title from the fact of the owner of the winner having to present six dozen of Champagne to the Doncaster Club. [Illustration: _Jones_: 'I say, Brown, things are deuced bad in the City.' _Brown_: 'Then I'm deuced glad I'm at Epsom.' (From a drawing by John Leech in 'Punch.')] [Illustration] [Illustration: AT THE STAR AND GARTER, RICHMOND.] Look, too, at the influence exercised by the wine on the British drama, or rather on what to-day passes as such. Plagioso the playwright freely opens a bottle of Champagne with the object of stimulating the wit of his friend and collaborateur in the task of adapting Messrs. Meilhac & Halévy's latest production to the London stage. Adverse critics, moreover, are said to be mollified by the subjugating influence of the wine; while authors, enraged at the way in which their pieces have been 'cut,' are similarly soothed; squabbles too between rival _artistes_ as to parts and lengths are satisfactorily arranged in the managerial sanctum over a bottle of fiz. Does Lord Nortiboy wish to smooth over a tiff with the tow-haired young lady who is making ducks and drakes of his money at the Gynarchic Theatre, and whose partiality for sparkling wine is notorious, a dinner at Richmond and floods of 'Cham' for herself and friends is the plan that naturally suggests itself. Should the enterprising lessees of the Chansonnette Theatre determine to celebrate the thousand and first night of the run of _Their Girls_, a Champagne supper is recognised as the fit and proper method of doing so. Supper is the favourite meal of the profession, and Champagne is of course the best of all wine to take at that repast. On the stage itself it has often proved of very serious service. Robust tragedians and prima donnas in good training may indulge in stout, as more 'mellering to the organ;' but by the judicious administration of Champagne many a nervous _débutant_ has been encouraged to conquer 'stage fright' and to face the footlights, many a jaded _tragédienne_ enabled to rally her fainting energies in the last act, and to carry her audience with her in a final outburst of pathos or passion. Statesmen no longer prime themselves with Port before strolling down to the House, till they get into the condition of the two members, one of whom averred that he could not see any Speaker in the chair, whilst the other gravely accounted for the phenomenon of this disappearance by asserting that, for his part, he saw a couple. Perhaps it is to be regretted that the records of the 'tea-room' do not vouch for a larger consumption of Champagne, as then perhaps the reporters overnight and their readers the nest morning might escape the wearisome reiteration of purposeless recrimination and threadbare platitudes. Such should certainly be the case, since the power of the wine as an incentive to brisk and sparkling conversation has been universally acknowledged in social life. [Illustration: 'Now, George, my boy, there's a glass of Champagne for you. Don't get such stuff at school, eh?' 'H'm! Awfully sweet. Very good sort for ladies. But I've arrived at a time of life when I confess I like my wine dry.' (From a drawing by John Leech in 'Punch.')] To the dinners of Bloomsbury and Belgravia, as well as the suppers of Bohemia, Champagne imparts a charm peculiarly its own by placing all there present _en rapport_. The modern mind may well look back with shuddering horror to that dreary period when Champagne, if given at all, was doled out at dinner-parties 'like drops of blood.' No wonder the ladies used to fly from the table and the gentlemen to slide underneath it. And, speaking of the ladies, is not Champagne their wine _par excellence_? How would the fragile products of modern civilisation be able to outdo the most robust of their ancestresses--whose highest saltatory feats were the execution of the slow and stately minuet, the formal quadrille with its frequent rests, or at most the romping country dance--by whirling almost uninterruptedly in the mazes of the giddy waltz from nine in the evening until five in the morning, without the sustaining power the sparkling fluid affords them? Has it not on their tongues an influence equal to that which it exercises on their swiftly-flying feet, inspiring pretty prattle, sparkling repartee, enchanting smiles, and silvery laughter? Old Bertin du Rocheret was quite right when he invited his fair friends to continue drinking 'De ce nectar délicieux, Qui pétille dans vos beaux yeux Mieux qu'il ne brille dans mon verre.' Since these lines were penned, many thousands of bright eyes have so borrowed an additional lustre. [Illustration] [Illustration] It would certainly be going too far to suggest that flirtation and Champagne must have been introduced simultaneously, yet the former can only have attained perfection since the advent of the latter. Only consider what a failure a picnic or a garden-or water-party, or any other kind of entertainment to which that much-abused term _fête champêtre_ is applied, and where flirtation would be, without Champagne! As a matrimonial agent, Champagne's achievements outdo those of the cleverest of man[oe]uvring mammas. It was solely those two extra glasses at supper which emboldened young Impey Cue of the Foreign Office to summon up sufficient courage to propose in the conservatory to Miss Yellowboy, the great heiress; and Impey Cue now lords it at Yellowboy Park as though to the manor born. Nor must the part it plays on the eventful day when the fatal knot is firmly tied be overlooked. It has been cynically remarked that it is a painful spectacle even for the most hardened to witness the consigning of a victim to the doom matrimonial; and that it becomes all the more painful when, under the futile pretext of festivity, bewildered fathers, harassed mothers, sorrowing sisters, envious cousins, bored connections, and pitying friends, arrayed in their best attire, meet at an abnormally early hour round the miscalled social board. Still, fancy what a wedding breakfast would be without the accompaniment of Champagne! [Illustration: THE SOCIAL TREADMILL--THE WEDDING BREAKFAST (From a drawing by John Leech in 'Punch').] [Illustration: COMING OF AGE (Drawn by R. Caldecott).] With mamma in tears and papa in the fidgets, the bride half-way towards hysterics, and the bridegroom wishing from the bottom of his heart that the crowded dining-room would suddenly transform itself into a securely-locked first-class coupé speeding onwards in the direction of Dover, the task of those speakers on whom devolves the duty of descanting upon 'the happy occasion which has brought us together' is of a surety no easy one. And it would be still more uphill work were it not for the amount of cheerful inspiration fortunately to be drawn from the familiar foil-topped bottles. By and by, when the more serious speeches have been duly stammered through, and the jovial bachelor--a middle-aged one by preference--rises to propose 'the health of the bridesmaids,' bursts of laughter from the men and responsive titters, bubbling up like the sparkling atoms in the wine which has inspired them, from the lips of the damsels in question and their compeers, prove beyond question that Champagne has done its duty in dissipating the gloom originally prevailing. A wedding, too, is the customary precursor of other family gatherings at which the vintage of the Marne plays the same enlivening part. There are, for instance, christenings where godfathers bring as their offerings masterpieces of the silversmith's craft, and the infant's health is quaffed by turns in 'Sherry in silver, Hock in gold, and glassed Champagne;' for the wine of mirth is out of place in metal, however precious, and needs the purest crystal to exhibit all its finer qualities. There are also coming-of-age banquets, whereat young Hopeful is enabled to stumble and stutter through a series of jerky and disjointed phrases of thanks--commonplace as they may be, which never fail to awaken the tenderest emotions in the heart of the maternal author of his being--by the aid of sundry glasses of the sparkling wine of the Marne. 'O the wildfire wine of France! Quick with fantasies florescent, Rapturously effervescent, How its atoms leap and dance! Floric fount of love and laughter, Where its emanations rise All the difficulty dies From the now and the hereafter. Through the happy golden haze Time's gray cheek is bright with dimples, And his laugh more lightly wimples Than the sea's on summer days. Tongue and throat it makes to tingle, Beats the blood from heart to vein, And ascending to the brain, Bids the spirit forth and mingle With a world no longer grim, But serene and sweet and spacious, Where the girls are fair and gracious, And the Cupids light of limb. Soul and sense are all untethered! Who would be an angel when, Clement king of gods and men, He can soar so grandly, feathered With thy plumage, O Champagne? Bottled gladness! thou magician! Silver-bearded! mist Elysian! Ecstasy of sun and rain! Swift and subtle, glad and glorious, O the wildfire wine of France! How its atoms frisk and dance, Over Fate and Time victorious!' [Illustration] [Illustration: MAP OF THE CHAMPAGNE VINEYARDS, _Reduced, by permission, from the larger Map_. Drawn by /M. J. Lignier/, Staff-Captain, For Messrs. MÖET & CHANDON, of Epernay. The purple tint indicates the Vineyards. The yellow, the Woods and Forests. The green, the Meadows. The blue, the Ponds and Lakes. The figures indicate the altitudes in metres above the level of the sea. /Scale in Metres/: (_2000 Metres are equal to 1-1/4 Miles._)] [Illustration: THE VINEYARDS AND ABBEY OF HAUTVILLERS.]