Historic Paris by Jetta Sophia Wolff
1783. This name was changed more than once in subsequent years. After
1078 words | Chapter 71
the Revolution, when the Royalists who had taken refuge beyond the
German Rhine returned to Paris and held meetings on this boulevard, it
was nicknamed “Le Petit Coblentz.” No. 33 (eighteenth century) is the
Pavillon de Hanovre, forming part in past times of the hôtel d’Antin,
which had been owned in its later days by Richelieu, then was divided
into several dwellings, and in the time of the Merveilleuses one of
these sub-divisions of the fine old mansion became a dancing saloon,
_bal_ Richelieu, and the meeting-place of the Incroyables. Rue du
Helder, which we see opening at No. 36, was in those days a cul-de-sac,
i.e. a blind alley. The bank there (No. 7) was erewhile the famous
cabaret “le Lion d’Or,” and at No. 2 Cavaignac was arrested when
Napoléon made his _coup d’état_. No. 22 of the boulevard was the
far-famed “Tortoni.” No. 20, rebuilt in 1839, now a post office, is the
ancient hôtel Stainville, later Maison Dorée. No. 16, till a year or two
ago Café Riche, dating from 1791. No. 15, hôtel de Lévis, was once the
Jockey Club. On the site of No. 13 stood till recent years the famous
Café Anglais. At No. 11 was the club “Salon des Italiens” in the time of
Louis XVI, subsequently the restaurant Nicolle and Café du Grand Balcon,
its first story commonly known as Salon des Princes. At No. 9 Grétry
lived from 1795 till his death, which happened at Montmorency in 1813.
No. 1 Café Cardinal founded by Dangest (eighteenth century).
Boulevard Montmartre dates from the seventeenth century, lined in olden
days on both sides by handsome private mansions; we see it now a
thoroughly commercial thoroughfare, one of the busiest in the city. A
modern journalist called its _carrefour_--the point where it meets the
Rue du Faubourg Montmartre--“_carrefour des écrasés_.” From the house,
now a newspaper office, at No. 22 an underground passage ran in past
days to the Café Cardinal opposite, leading to an orangery. On the site
of No. 23 stood the gambling-house Frascati, built on the site of the
old hôtel Taillepied. The Café Véron at No. 13 dates from 1818, opened
through the gardens of the hôtel Montmorency-Luxembourg. Passage
Jouffroy at No. 10 was cut, in 1846, across the site of an ancient
building known as the Maison des Grands Artistes. The théâtre des
Variétés, at No. 7, first set up at the Palais-Royal in 1770 by “la
Montansier,” was built here in 1807 on the grounds of the hôtel
Montmorency-Luxembourg. No. 1 is the site of the Café de la Porte
Montmartre, founded by Louis XV, a meeting-place of Parisians hailing
from Orléans, nicknamed Guépins.
Boulevard Poissonnières (seventeenth century) begins where hung till
recent years an ancient sign at No. 1--“Aux limites de la Ville de
Paris”--recording the inscription once on the old wall there. Most of
the houses are those originally built along the boulevard, and many old
streets run into it on either side. At No. 9 we see Rue St-Fiacre,
dating from 1630, when it was Rue du Figuier, a street closed at each
end by gates till about 1800. The restaurant Duval at No. 10 of the
boulevard was an eighteenth-century mansion. No. 14 is known as Maison
du Pont-de-Fer. No. 19, now l’École Pratique du Commerce, was till a few
years ago the home of an old lady who, left a widow after one happy year
of married life, shut herself up in the house she owned, refused to let
any of its six large flats, and died there in utter solitude at the age
of ninety. No. 23, designed by Soufflot le Romain in 1775 as a private
mansion, became later the _dépôt_ of the famous Aubusson tapistry.
Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, named from the church Notre-Dame de
Bonne-Nouvelle in Rue de la Lune, dates from the seventeenth century
(_see_ p. 59). No. 21 was built after the Revolution with the stones of
the old demolished church St-Paul (_see_ p. 12). No. 11, in 1793, with
some of the stones of the Bastille. The theatre, le Gymnase, which we
see at No. 38, erected in 1820 on the grounds of a mansion, a barracks
and a bit of an old graveyard, was known during some years as the
théâtre de Madame la duchesse de Berri, who had taken it under her
patronage. Its façade was rebuilt in 1887.
The church just off the boulevard was first built in 1624 on the site of
the old chapel Ste-Barbe, and named by Anne d’Autriche, perhaps in
gratitude for the good news of the prospect of the birth of a son (Louis
XIV) after twenty-three years of childless married life, or, as has been
said, on account of a piece of good news communicated to the Queen when
passing by the spot. The edifice was rebuilt in the nineteenth century,
the tower alone remaining untouched. Within it we find an old painting
of Anne d’Autriche and Henriette of England.
Boulevard St-Denis (eighteenth century). The fine Porte St-Denis shows
in bas-relief, the victories of Louis XIV in Germany and in Holland. It
has been restored three times since its first erection in 1673. The
Revolutions of 1830 and 1848 began around this grand old Porte.
Paving-stones were hurled from its summit. At No. 19 we see a statue of
St-Denis.
Boulevard St-Martin (seventeenth century). Its course was marked out,
its trees planted a few years earlier than that of boulevard St-Denis.
On its handsome blackened Porte, built in 1674-75, we read the words: “A
Louis-le-Grand pour avoir pris deux fois Besançon et vaincu les Armées
allemandes, espagnoles et hollandaises.” Like Porte St-Denis, it has
been three times restored. The Allies passed beneath it on entering
Paris in 1814. The first théâtre de la Porte St-Martin was built in the
short period of seventy-five days to replace, with the least delay
possible, the Opera-house near the Palais-Royal, burnt down in 1781. It
was the Opera until 1793. The structure we see was erected in 1873,
after the disastrous conflagration caused by the Communards two years
previously. We see theatres and concert-halls along the whole course of
the boulevard. The Ambigu at No. 2 dating from 1828 was founded sixty
years earlier as a marionnette show on the site of the present Folies
Dramatiques. This part of the boulevard was formerly on a steep incline,
with steps up to the théâtre Porte St-Martin. Its ground was levelled in
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