CHAPTER IX

RING MAKING The modern methods of ring manufacture in the United States are far different from those of the past, due to an endeavor to keep pace with the growth of the country and with an increase in production. Owing to the introduction of modern systems, great quantities of an article can now be sold, which, though not preserving the character of the finest handiwork, yet cost so much less to produce that they can now be offered at greatly reduced prices. In the manufacture of the modern ring, there is first prepared a design, or even a model. The initial process consists in cutting this object exactly as it will appear when it is finished,--or such parts of it as are made by measure,--on what is known as a “hub” made of soft steel. When the design is finally completed, it is hardened by heating and then by dipping into water, oil or other solution. When the metal hub has been hardened, it is forced into a mass of soft steel by great pressure, usually hydraulic, producing a die, as it is termed, on which all the ornamentation is the reverse of that on the desired object. This die is then hardened. The die is placed on the stand of the drop press, the upperweight strikes it and forces the metal into it; this requires from four or five to seven or eight operations. Each time the metal is struck it is annealed, then restruck and again annealed, until the ring is ready for trimming. This trimming removes all the superfluous metal, and the ring is then in condition for the jeweller to bend it into a complete circle. In the manufacture of many rings, the metal first receives a special form. The gold plates are blanked and rolled to a definite thickness according to the pattern of the ring desired, the width being controlled by screws attached to the rolls themselves. To obtain the exact width, the measure in which it is placed can be adjusted to cut a strip of metal from a millimeter, or thinner, up to several inches in width. It is slid over a roll and two wheels with sharp edges separate the mass of gold into exactly the desired widths. The gauges are so exact as in one instance to provide 16 variations to a millimeter, approximately 1/25 of an inch. Another screw gauge is so delicate that it can be adjusted to the four-thousandth of an inch. Each piece is then put in a cutter exactly the outline of the desired piece, which, for a ring, is usually quite flat. The piece of metal then drops into a cutting box and a number can be struck out successively by simply raising the press and allowing the cutter to come down. The metal is now placed in another roll, which, in the case of the signet ring, rolls the sides thinner than the head. When this process is completed the product is put in a gauge measure which measures the length of the ring from 0.4 to size 13, on Allen’s standard gauge. The ends of the metal are then cut off so that the ring is approximately the desired size, and the ends are annealed or soldered without any further operation. [Illustration: PRODUCTION OF RINGS WITH PRECIOUS STONE SETTINGS BY MEANS OF MACHINERY 1, original blank struck from plate of metal. 2, same raised, with claws pointing upward. 3, same reduced. 4, first strike of a one-piece ring. 5, second operation. 6, third operation. 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, successive stages in the manufacture of a gallery for the ring] [Illustration: SUCCESSIVE STAGES IN THE FORMATION OF A RING (MACHINE MADE) FROM THE SHAPED, BENT, UNORNAMENTED BAR TO THE FINISHED RING] In most cases when striking a signet-ring, the top is not cut out entirely. The gold backing of the stone is left, and the head of the ring is struck with a concave space so that when the two sides are brought down the space will remain flat. For transparent stones, the top is cut out of the setting entirely. When the rings are finally completed they are cleaned by what is known as a stripping wheel, the reverse of a plating wheel, which removes all the fire-markings, and all the other impurities that exist, leaving the metal clean. The rings are then polished by rapidly revolving wheels of hair,--at times, of other materials. After this, the stones are set. If the rings need engraving, they are then passed to an engraver and are finally polished, leaving the metal entirely finished. In former times, and now also, by hand methods one man would frequently make an entire ring. By modern methods, the ring passes through the hands of a number of workers: first, the blank-maker, then in succession the man who operates the drop press, the jeweller, the stone setter, the engraver, and finally, the polisher. As to the statistics of ring-making, with the great demand throughout the United States a single factory has produced 3,000,000 rings a year, some selling for less than $1.00 each, and on up to $5.00 and $10.00 each; very occasionally for higher prices, up to $50.00 or $60.00. Recently to fill an order for a chain of popular shops, this factory turned out 2,000,000 rings to be sold at ten cents apiece. In the region of Providence, Rhode Island, and the nearby Attleboro, Mass., the total value of the annual ring output, which gives employment to some two thousand persons, is put at $5,000,000. In a factory of the largest kind, frequently the various parts for making up a ring may be kept in small boxes, because a stamper, in making an intricate ring, is able to produce more in one day than a jeweller can finish in a week. In simple rings, however, the jeweller finishes as many rings as the stamper can produce in a day. There is no piece of jewellery that is more generally worn nor whose possession causes more joy, than a finger ring. And the proper fitting of a ring for comfort in wearing it, or to prevent its loss, which frequently would be looked upon almost as a calamity, is something that can be attained by careful adjustment to the proper size. Many fingers taper forward. In other fingers, the knuckle is very large and the third joint much smaller than the knuckle. Where the finger tapers from the joint at the hand to the tip it is frequently difficult to make a ring hold properly. But this can be done by wearing a tiny guard ring. In cases where the finger is much smaller between the third and fourth joint the ring will turn around, which is not only uncomfortable but makes the ornaments fail to show properly. This can be prevented by having the hoop penannular in shape, or by the addition of an internal spring. To prevent the rubbing together of two rings worn on the same finger, and the resulting attrition, which in the lapse of years sometimes wears down a gold ring until the hoop becomes so thin that it may crack, a simple device has been patented. This is a narrow circlet which may be made of ivory or any other suitable material. It has a thin vertical flange just high enough to interpose between the rings that are to be kept apart, and two horizontal flanges to pass beneath the hoops of the rings. To protect two rings from rubbing against each other, an exceedingly narrow gold circlet is worn between them. Where there is risk that a hard stone in one ring will come in contact with a pearl in the other, or a diamond with any other stone, necessarily softer, one or more very small beads are welded on that part of the hoop nearest to the setting. In cases where a treasured ring has worn almost to the thinness of paper, it is possible to strengthen it by adding gold at either side of the hoop. [Illustration: THE “ALLEN RING GAUGE” Generally used in the United States for measuring accurately the size of the ring required to fit a given finger] [Illustration: 1, Engelmann’s ring, finger and millimeter locking gauge. 2, “Display rings,” in which a succession of precious stones can be set and tried on the fingers] The size of the finger is often recorded by what is known as the Allen gauge, a tapering stick numbered from 1 to size 13 in half sizes. To this stick is attached a chain, and pendant to the chain is a series of rings of graduated sizes. When it is decided which ring of the series best fits the finger, it is slipped on the gauge and its size ascertained. If size 6 is a little tight and 6½ a trifle loose, this indicates that 6¼ is the correct size. In measuring the finger for a ring, by Engelmann’s Ring, Finger and Millimeter Locking Gauge, the ring is set _over_ the _outside_ perpendicular ends of the gauge (see plate). These are then separated to their fullest extent, so that they touch the ring on both sides. The exact size of the ring is thus indicated on the scale over the mark on the movable upper part of the right-hand end. To measure the size of a finger, the ends should be separated sufficiently to permit the finger to pass through the aperture between them. They are then to be closed so as to touch lightly--not pinch or squeeze--the flesh of the finger. When this has been done the ends are locked, and if the knuckle passes easily through the aperture, the right size has been found. This is recorded on the scale in the same way as in the ring measurement. In measuring the finger of either a child, boy, girl, or woman, who has not a large or high knuckle, a safe rule is to add a ½ _ring-size_ to that which has been indicated by the measurement. The width of the metal ring-shank is ascertained by placing its lower, centre part between the two inside perpendicular ends, and the exact dimensions will be made apparent on the millimeter scale. Where the shank is tapered, the maximum and minimum widths must be taken, and these must both be stated in ordering a ring. An unset stone is to be measured in the way just described, maximum and minimum widths being taken; for this purpose also, only the extreme pointed ends are to be used; these dimensions should be correctly stated when the ring is ordered. To alter a ring to any size, place the lower, centre part of the shank _over_ the scale and estimate the width of metal to be taken off or added, respectively, by the millimeter-lines. Where the proper measuring devices are not attainable, resource may be had to various simple expedients. For instance, a bit of copper wire can be used; one end is turned so as to form an eye, and through this the other end is drawn until the circle fits the finger; the free end is then twisted to keep it from slipping back. In this way the exact size of a finger can be obtained. It is also possible to have the wire notched so as to indicate the standard numbers of rings, or better still, to have them stamped on a narrow, flat strip of copper or steel with a slot at one end, through which the other end can be passed and turned down when the band has closely encircled the finger. Of course, these simple methods need only be resorted to when the prospective buyer is ordering a ring by mail or messenger, as jewellers are always provided with instruments for taking the exact measurement of the fingers. A new and practical invention is that of a “display ring,” by means of which the jeweller can enable anyone who desires to order a ring, to judge of the effect of various stones when worn as ring settings. This little device is open at one end, the metal band being flexible enough to yield to slight pressure applied to both sides. In front, on either side, are two claws, which open up and grasp the stone when the pressure is relaxed. Thus one gem after another can be displayed. Sets of these display-rings are made comprising eighteen different sizes.[590] When a ring has become painfully and injuriously tight on a finger, a simple method and often efficacious, for its removal, is to take several feet of cotton cord, soak this in soapsuds, glycerine, or oil, and pass one end of it under the ring, leaving about six inches loosely hanging down. The other end of the cord is then to be wound tightly around the finger, beginning close to the ring and continuing over the middle joint up to the end of the finger. If left on for a while, the cord compresses the flesh to such an extent that when it is unwound by pulling at the loose end hanging down from the base of the finger, the ring will be gradually and painlessly forced off. In very serious cases it is safest to file through the hoop and bend it open sufficiently to free the finger. The trifling injury to the ring can easily be repaired, leaving it in all respects in its original condition. A ring that fits too tightly may become a source of serious injury to the wearer in course of time. This applies especially to engagement or wedding-rings, for many wearers have a sentimental, or even superstitious disinclination to remove such a ring after it has once been placed on the finger by the cherished donor. Slight as the effects appear to be, since the progressive tightening is so very gradual, there have been cases where the increasing plumpness of a hand has caused the pressure of the ring to become so intense as to induce an affection of the arm, rendering it liable to serious trouble in case of an attack of rheumatism or a severe cold. In some cases, when such a tight ring has been cut from the hand, the present writer has seen that the entire finger under the ring was an open wound, occasionally a deep one.[591] Throughout Europe--England and the Continent--narrow gold rings are generally worn, almost invariably of 22-carat gold; among the poorer classes, the standard falls to 18-carat--never lower. In the United States the correct wedding ring is a 22-carat ring, but away from the large cities and among their less prosperous inhabitants 18-carat rings are worn to a considerable extent. These are often two, three, or four times the weight of the European 22-carat ring, flatter and sharp on the edges, thus cutting the finger. Frequently perspiration under the ring will cause the finger to become sore and infected. The narrow ring is more rounded on the inside and never infects the finger in any way. Charges of selling illegally stamped wedding-rings have recently been preferred in a New York court. The proceedings were instituted under paragraph 431 of the Penal Law. The marking in one case was “14 Kt. ¹⁄₁₀,” this having been stated to signify that nine-tenths of the metal was 14-carat gold and one-tenth of some baser metal. The real meaning, however, appears to be that one-tenth is of 14–carat gold, the remaining nine-tenths being alloy. The ring was found to weigh 72 grains, and on being tested at the United States Assay Office, the fineness of the entire metal was determined to be 52/1000, equivalent to a fineness of but 12½ carats for the one-tenth represented to be of 14–carat gold. The utmost variation from standard permitted by the statute is one carat. The quantity of pure gold in such a ring would only be about 3¾ grains, worth a fraction over 16 cents. The rings were sold for $3.75 and $4. An alarm ring, giving the wearer timely notice if its stone setting should fall out, has recently been invented. Beneath the stone, a needle traversing the ring is so adjusted to a coiled spring that if the stone drops out, the spring is released, and the needle-point gives a slight prick to the wearer’s finger. The idea is ingenious enough and the ring may find favor among those who value their ring-stones enough to endure a “sharp reminder” of their loss when this helps their recovery.[592] A curious and interesting example of inlaying, is a gold ring owned by B. G. Fairchild, Esq., of New York. In the flat bezel have been inserted two winged figures, cut in intaglio on pieces of brown chalcedony. As there is no margin of stone showing about the figures, the effect is very striking, the chalcedony appearing to be naturally embedded in the gold. This is a production of antique art. In designing a ring the goldsmith must constantly bear in mind that only the upper part, less than half the circle, will be displayed, and he should thus carefully avoid regarding the whole ring as an ornamental object and chasing or adorning the part that will not be shown. To this end he is advised to model the design in wax on the circlet itself, rather than to work from a sketch or drawing. If any plant or other nature form enters into his composition, he should, where possible, have a specimen before him while he works, so that whatever modifications or adaptations he may make will not violate the main lines of the natural type. In making a ring of solid metal, it is either cast in the desired form, or hammered from a cast. After the metal has been annealed, the design is sketched on in black water-color; it is then outlined with a small round-edged tracing-tool and the ground-work is chiselled away. The design can now be finished with chasing tools.[593] The making of finger rings as well as of everything else has been strongly influenced by machine production. Cloth is machine-made, pictures are lithographed, lace, macaroni, and even small houses are now produced with an exactness that was never before possible. But, unfortunately, with the dominance of the “machine-made” product, the artistic quality is entirely obliterated. Rings are now made in such vast quantities that exactness of reproduction is the great aim. Thus while the initial design may possess a certain measure of originality, the single ring of the type, one out of thousands or tens of thousands stamped out of the same model, necessarily lacks that personal touch which alone can produce a truly artistic object. Names of the Ring[594] in Various Foreign Languages. Anglo-Saxon Hringe Arabic Khatam, maḥbas Babylonian Shemiru, lulimtu? Bohemian, Serbo-Croatian Kruh, prsten Bulgarian Prsten Chinese Pan-chih, chih huan[595] Danish Ring Dutch Ring French Anneau, bague Gaelic (Erse) Fainne, failbeagh German Ring Greek, ancient Δακτύλιος, δακτυλίδιον Greek, modern Δακτὐλιδι Hebrew Tabba’ath, ḥotham Hungarian (Magyar) Gyürü Italian Anello Icelandic Hringr Irish Fainne Japanese Yubi no wa Laos Pawp Mü Latin Anulus, anellus Lithuanian Ziedas Persian Angushtar (ḥaḷḳat) Polish Piercien, krouzek Portuguese Annel Roumanian Inel Russian Koltsó,[596] pérsten[597] Ruthenian (Little Russian) Persten Sanskrit Angulîya, anguli mudra Serbian Prsten Siamese New nang (nang pet) Spanish Sortija, anillo Sumerian MUR (KHAR) Swedish Ring Syriac Tab’â, ḥathmâ Turkish (Osmanli) Yüsük, halqa Welsh Modrwy The following hints as to the proper pronunciation of some of the rare words in the above list have been kindly furnished by Prof. John Dyneley Prince, of Columbia University, who has also supplied several of the names: In _prsten_ (Bulgarian, Bohemian and Serbo-Croatian), the r has a peculiar rolling sound with an inherent vowel; this cannot be correctly reproduced in English spelling. The ci of Polish _piercien_ is pronounced like the Italian ci (chee). Little Russian (Ruthenian) and Russian _persten_ means literally “finger-thing.” In the Lithuanian _ziedas_, the z is pronounced like French j, or our z and azure. The Hungarian gyürü sounds like dyü-rü; it means something rolled. The ṭ in Hebrew, Arabic and Syriac is an explosive t unknown in English; the letter rendered by the sign is a deep, guttural and faucal exhalation. Irish _fainne_ is pronounced fau-in-nye, and the Welsh _bodrwy_ is sounded as bod-roo-ee. The word “ring,” _tabba-ath_, appears once in Genesis (xli: 42), the ring given by Pharaoh to Joseph; six times in Esther iii: 10, 12; viii: 2, 8 (bis), 10, the ring of Ahasuerus. In the New Testament the ring is mentioned once in Luke xv: 22, the ring given the Prodigal Son; and once in the Epistle of James, ii: 2. The word “rings,” as finger-rings, occurs in Exodus xxxv: 22, of the offerings of the people of Israel in the desert; in Numbers xxxi: 50; in Canticles v: 14 (this is probably to be rendered “rods”),[598] and in Isaiah iii: 21. That rings should be so rarely alluded to in the Old Testament might seem to prove that they were not as extensively worn in the land of Israel as some have assumed. The finest ancient Hebrew signet is said to be one of the time of Jeroboam II, King of Israel (790–749? B.C.), found at Megiddo. This is the seal of Shemai, the King’s Minister of State. It is of jasper and bears the finely engraved figure of a lion. The form is oval and the seal measures 3.7 by 2.7 cm.[599] INDEX A Aah-hotep, Queen, signet of, 117 Abbots’ rings, 280 Abbott, Dr., Egyptian collection of, 118 Abbesses’ rings, 280 Aberdeen, Earl of, 339 Achametis, on dreams of rings, 298 Add-a-link ring, 93 Adjustable rings, 93 Adler, Cyrus, viii Ælian, 32 African rings, 64, 83, 84, 328 Agate, 81, 87, 335 Agincourt, rings found on battlefield of, 165 _Agla_ motto on healing rings, 339 Agricola, Johannes, on healing rings, 351 Ahasuerus, signet of, 116 Ahlstan, Bishop of Sherbourne, ring of, 271 Albert, Prince, 225 Albertus Magnus, on virtues of talismans, 311 Alexander the Great, signet of, 123 Alfonso X, Lapidario of, 304, 305 Alfonso XIII, old usage said to have been observed at marriage of, 213 Alliot, Hector, viii Amber, 104, 341 entire rings of, 104 Ambrose, St., 128 Amelia, Princess, Memorial ring of, 43 Amenhotep IV (Akhenaten), ring of, 67 American Museum of Natural History, 65 American rings, 17–30, 47, 84, 85, 108 Amethyst, 34, 50, 73, 86, 111, 125, 126, 158, 227, 252, 279, 328, 335 Andalusite, 86 Anglo-Saxon rings, 195 of Bishop Ahlstan, 271 of Ethelswith, 173, 174 of Ethelwulf, 173, 174 Anhalt, princess of, magic ring of, 316, 317 Annay, Sir William d’, ring given to by Richard Cœur-de-Lion, 177 Anne, St., betrothal ring of, 261 Anne of Denmark, 189 Antiochus IV, Epiphanes, signet of, 125 Antoninus Pius, head of, on signet, 140 _Anularius_, a ring-maker, 16 Anuli natalitii, 15 _Anulus pronubus_, 193 Apollonius of Tyana, magic rings of, 296, 325 Aquamarine, 158 Aquinas, St. Thomas, 211 Arabic rings, Mohammed’s seal, 141 with carnelians, 141 mottoes and devices on, 142 Archæological Institute, London, 73 Archers’ rings, 87, 105–108 Aristophanes, of rings, 9 Aristotle, blamed by Plato for wearing rings, 32 Arnulphus, Bishop of Metz, ring of, 269 _Art nouveau_ rings, 87 Artemidora, mummy-case of, 51 Artemidorus, rings in dream-book of, 37 Arundel collection, 171 Arundel, Thomas, keeper of jewels of Edward the Confessor’s shrine, 175 Assyrian and Babylonian rings, 3 ancient contract as to emerald set in one, 4, 5 Assyrian jewellers’ firm, 4 Astle, Thomas, 155 Astrolabe ring, 88 Auckland, Lord, 101 Augustine, St., 299 Augustus, 336, 347 signet of, 130, 131 Aurelian’s seal ring, 133 Austrian rings, 87, 110 Avery, Samuel P., 66 Avitus, Archbishop of Vienne, letter of, describing ring, 266, 267, 277 Aztecs, treasures of the, 19 silversmiths of the, 20 finger-rings of the, 20 B Bachaumont, Louis Petit de, 76 Bacon, Francis, on telepathic test with a ring, 326, 327 _Bacula_, little rod for rings, 55 Bagobos of Philippine Islands, superstitions of the, 352 Balas-ruby, 276 Bardel, W., x Barlow, Hon. Peter T., vii, 153 Barr, Miss Ada M., vii Barrow, F. H., viii Beatty, W. Gedney, vii Beauvoisin, Mlle. de, rings owned by, 76 Becket, St. Thomas à, ring taken from shrine of, 182, 183 Beefsteak Club memorial rings, 47 Benedict XIV, 281 Bequests of signets, 149 Berghem Lodowyck van (Louis de Berquen) cuts diamonds for Charles the Bold, 215 Béquet, Albert, 59 Berlin Mineralogical Museum, 108 Berlin Royal Museum, 67 Bernard of Clairvaux, St., signet of, 145 Bernhard IV, Margrave of Baden, portrait of, 62 Berteildis, wife of Dagobert I, signet of, 138 Beryl, 134, 158, 252, 334, 335 Besborough collection, 73 Betrothal rings, _see_ wedding rings Bible, rings mentioned in the, 1, 115, 116, 336 Bibliothèque Nationale, 162 Bibliothèque du Roi (later Bibliothèque Nationale), 139 Bingham, Hiram, viii Inca rings found by, in Peru, 83 Bishop, Heber R., collection, 55, 105, 106 Bishops’ rings, of Allstan, Bishop of Sherborne, 271 of Arnulphus, Bishop of Metz, 269 of Ebba, Bishop of Rheims, 270 of Bishop of Flambard, 275 of Bishop Geoffroy Rufus, 275 of Archbishop Greenfield, 272 of Bishop Hervée, 273 of Hilary, Bishop of Chichester, 272 Innocent III’s definition of, 273 of Archbishop Parker, 276 of Seffrid, Bishop of Chichester, 272 of Archbishop Sewell, 272 of Archbishop Sigfroi, 274 of Bishop John Stanberry, 275 stolen by Piers Gaveston, 276 set with green tourmalines, 276 of Bishop William of St. Barbara, 275 of Bishop Wykeham, 275 of Wytlesey, Archbishop of Canterbury, 275 Blake, W. W., ix Blakeslee collection, portraits in, showing ring wearing, 62 Bloodstone, 158, 191, 331 Bohemian garnet wings, 109 Boleyn, Anne, sends “cramp rings,” 343 Boniface IV, mention of pontifical ring in decree of, 267 Boniface VIII, ring found in tomb of, 273 magic ring of, 306 _Bonza_, Buddhist priest, rings made by, 82 Boog, Theodore de, xi “Book of Thetel,” magic ring described in, 311 Borde, Andrew, on cramp rings, 343 Borgia, Cesare, motto in poison-ring of, 37 Borgia, Lucrezia, rings at betrothal of, 215 Borgias, poison rings of the, 37 Borough, Sir Edward, wins diamond ring at tournament, 181 Bossuet, Jacques Béminge, memorial ring given him by Princess Henrietta Anne, 45 Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 192 Braddock, Charles S., Jr., ix Brandon, Thomas, Earl of Suffolk, wins ruby ring at tournament, 181 Brantôme, Pierre de Boudeilles, Seigneux de, 168 Branualdius, 300 Brass rings, 82, 84, 352 Brera gallery, Milan, 203 British Museum, x, 5, 35, 39, 40, 44, 50, 58, 68, 69, 75, 82, 86, 89, 98, 99, 100, 104, 136, 143, 150, 151, 173, 197, 251, 257, 293 Bronze age, rings of the, 2 Bronze rings, 58, 89, 109, 251, 257, 293 Broun, W. H., entire emerald ring, owned by, 103 Brouwer, Bart., entire diamond ring by, 105 Brummagem rings, 113, 114 Burgundian rings, 73 Burmese rings, 82 Butler, Samuel, 194, 222 Buxtorf, Johann, on Hebrew betrothal rings, 203 Byron, Lord, signet owned by, 152 Byzantine rings, 143, 144–146, 161, 197, 256, 338 C Cæsar, Julius, signet of, 130 Caius, St., ring of, 261 Caligula, head of, on ring, 133 Cambodian rings, 82 Camden, William, 183 Campbell, Archibald, ring of, 182 Cantacuzene, Emperor, 146 Canute, King, ring found on body of, 179 Caracalla, head of, on signet, 140 Cardinals’ rings, sapphire used for, 276 various stones used for in earlier times, 276 cost of, 277 of Cardinal Farley, 278 in portraits, 278 Carlomans’ signet ring, 140 Carlyle, Thomas, 324 Carnelian, 6, 125, 141, 158, 269, 318, 323, 328 entire rings of, 100 Casa Grande, Arizona, rings found at, 17 Casimir, John, Count Palatine, medal of, with figure of diamond ring, 171 Catharine von Bora, ring commemorating her marriage to Martin Luther, 216, 217 Cathoir the Great, called “Hero of Rings,” 191 Cat’s-eye, 78 “Celestial stones” in rings, 330 “Cent Nouvelles Nouvelles,” story of a ring in, 215 Cesnola collection of Cypriote antiquities, 119 Chalcedony, 74, 124, 158, 159, 334, 335, 363 entire rings of, 100, 258–261 Charioteer’s ring, 33 Charlemagne, ring of, 300–302 Charles the Bald, letter of, to Pope Nicholas I, 270 Charles I, 153, 189, 190 memorial rings of, 41 signet of, as Prince of Wales, 156, 157 as king, 157 Charles II, sealed with diamond signet of his father, 157 gave ring to Judge Jeffreys, 191 Charles IV, Emperor, 259 Charles V, of France, signet of, 146 Charles the Bald, letter of, to Pope Nicholas I, 270 Charlotte, Queen, 151 Chase, William M., x Chaves Pass, Arizona, ring found at, 17 Chifflet, Jean Jacques, 139 Childeris I, signet of, 138–140 Chindaswinthe, Visigoth sovereign, promulgated law regarding betrothal rings, 200 Chinese rings, 81, 85, 105–108, 248, 319–321 Chlorastrolite, 335 Chrysoberyl, 86 Chrysolite, _see_ peridot Chrysoprase, 34 Chrysostom, St. John, on ring inscriptions, 135 Church, Sir Arthur Herbert, 86 Church collection, 86 Cicero, tells how Verres had rings made, 16 of ring seized by Verres, 127 Cigarette ring, 94 Clemens Alexandrinus, 14, 121, 133, 199, 296 Clement IV, Pope, “Fisherman’s Ring” of, 263 Clement V, Pope, stones used in ecclesiastical rings in time of, 276 Clement VIII, Pope, 263 Cleopatra, signet of, 126 Cleveland Museum of Art, 90 Clotaire II, coin of, set in ring, 162 Clothilda, receives betrothal ring from Clovis I in 493 A.D., 201, 202 Clovis I of France, on bishops’ signets, 137 Coats-of-arms on signet rings, 149 Coello, Claudio, 59 Coins set in rings, 162 Coke, Sir Edward, historic ring bequeathed by, 189 diamond ring of, 189 College of Arms, London, gift to, by Duke of Norfolk, 181 Color of stones in bishops’ rings, significance of, 274, 275 Columbus, Knights of, rings of, 332 Commodus, signet of, 131 “Communion rings,” 351 Comnenus, Alexis, signet-ring of, 144 Comnenus, John, 144 “Cone-shell” rings, 17 Congo, King of the, thumb ring of, 64 _Conlegium anularium_, 16 Constantius II, signet of, 161 Copper rings, 19, 20, 22, 84, 328 Coral, 63, 78, 341 Cordierite, 86 Corean rings, 107 Coronation ring, English, 174, 282, 283 Coronation ring, French, 284 Cortés, Fernan, 19 Corundum, 86 Cosmas and Damian, Sts., effigies of, on a healing ring, 338 “Cramp rings,” 341–345 Cranach, Lucas, 61 Crisp collection of memorial rings, 43 Culin, Stewart, vii Curry, James, bought Henrietta Maria’s signet, 156 Cushing, Frank H., 21, 22 Cypriote rings, 6, 7, 111, 119, 120 Cyrianides, magic rings described in, 295 D _Dactyliotheca_, 53, 54 Dactylomancy, 299, 308 Daggett, Frank S., viii Dalhousie, Lord, 103 Dalton, O. M., 39, 150 Damer, Miss Dawson, 225 Daniel, Book of, signet mentioned in, 115 Darius III, signet of, 123 Darnley, Henry, Lord, wedding ring of, 217, 218 Dashur, rings found at, 68 Davenant, Sir William, of a rush-ring, 206 Death, removing of rings in case of, 134 Decade rings, 34 DeForest, Robert W., vii Deloche, M., 10, 58, 140 Dial rings, 39, 87 Diamond, 78, 89, 98, 99, 101, 167–170, 181, 183, 189, 215, 227, 235, 252, 278, 288, 334 entire rings of, 105 Divining with rings, 299 Divorce rings, 235 Dixon, Joseph K., viii Doctors’ rings, 266 Domenico dei Camei, gem engraver, 148 Domna, Julia, wife of Septimius Severus, causes Philostratus to write life of Apollonius of Tyana, 296 Drake, Alexander Wilson, 85, 86, 217 Drake, Mrs. Alexander W., vii, 217 Drake collection, 85, 353 Dreams about rings, 37, 104, 132, 298 Dryden, John, 312 on gimmal ring, 219 Durant, Guillaume, Bishop of Mende, on spiritual meaning of wedding ring, 207 Dutt, Dasmodar, Hindu portraitist, 63 Dynamite rings, 110 E Ebbo, Bishop of Rheims, ring sent to, by mother of Charles the Bald, 270 Ecgberht, Archbishop of York, 267 Eden, Hon. Miss, 101 Edward the Confessor’s ring, 162, 174, 176, 342, 343 Edward I, tomb of, opened in 1774, 179 Edward II, 276 Edward III, 315 gives ruby ring, 180 Edward IV, decree of, against spurious rings, 114 Edward VI, 343 marriage service in prayer-book of, 204 Eglamore, Sir, mediæval romance, magic ring in, 310 Egmont’s poison ring, 38, 39 Egyptian rings, 1, 5, 6, 51, 67, 68, 96, 117, 118, 249 Eisen, Gustavus A., vii Eleanora, Empress of Germany, ring of, 168 Eleazar’s magic ring, 294, 295 Electric curative rings, 354 Electrum rings, 110, 314 Elizabeth, Queen, 49, 149, 152, 162, 169, 219 diamond ring given by, to Mary, Queen of Scots, 183, 184 ring given by, to Essex, 186–188 portrait of, showing ring, 188 healing ring sent to, 350 Elk-hoof, rings made from, 352, 353 Elks, Benevolent Protective Order of, rings of, 332 Emblems, Christian, on rings, 253–255 Emerald, 4, 5, 34, 50, 74, 78, 89, 106, 121, 176, 178, 180, 181, 211, 227, 252, 274, 275, 276, 282, 305, 328, 335 entire rings of, 101–103 Emnechildis, wife of Childeric II, signet of, 138 Engagement rings, 227, 230, 233–235, 237 English rings, 36, 41–45, 47, 48, 64, 74, 85, 113, 129, 144, 149–157, 169, 173–192, 211, 219, 221, 222, 224, 231, 269–272, 274, 282–284, 286, 287, 349 Enkomi, Cyprus, rings found in tombs at, 5, 6 Enstatite, 86 Eskimos, do not favor rings, 31 Essex, Earl of, wins diamond ring at tournament, 181 Essex ring, 162 Essex, William Devereux, Earl of, story of ring sent him by Elizabeth, 186–188 Estampes, Anne de Pisseleu, Duchesse d’, favorite of Francis I, 168 Esther, book of, signet mentioned in, 116 Ethelswith, ring of, 173, 174 Ethelwulf, ring of, 173, 174 Etruscan rings, 68, 69 Eugene III, Pope, 144 Eugene IV, Pope, 259 Evans, Sir John, 209 Evdokim, Archbishop, 282 Evil eye, rings as charms against, 236, 293 F Faber, Conrad, portrait by, 148 Fairbanks, Arthur, viii Fairchild, B. G., 363 Farley, Cardinal, ring of, 278 Faustina the elder, head of, in entire sapphire ring, 99 _Fede_, Italian designation of betrothal ring, 209 _Fei-tsui_ jade, 107 Fenton, Edward, on the turquoise, 220 Field Museum of Natural History, Chicago, 81 Figdor, Albert, x, 89, 167 Figdor (Dr. Albert) collection, 45, 89, 167, 210, 253 Filipino rings, 83, 352 Filippo Maria, Duke of Milan, 259 Finger on which betrothal or wedding ring is placed, 194–197, 203, 215, 222 Fish symbol (Christian), 255 “Fisherman’s Ring,” 262–265 Fitzherbert, Mrs., ring of, with portrait of George IV, 224 Flambard, Bishop, ring of, 275 Fletcher, John, allusion of, to rush-rings, 206 Fortnum, Drury, 153, 154, 156 Fossil coral, 334 Francis I, verses written with diamond ring by, 168 Francis II of France, 150 Franklin rings, 77 Franks Bequest collection, 40, 104, 150 Frederick I of Prussia, talismanic ring of, 171, 172 Frederick the Great, 171 Frederick William I of Prussia, 172 Frederick William III of Prussia, 172 French Revolution, rings of, 76 French rings, 45, 47, 75–77, 85, 87, 89, 90, 92, 93, 139, 140, 145, 147, 149–151, 164, 168, 170, 173, 179, 201, 211, 212, 215, 273, 348 French soldiers, rings made by, 92, 93 “Friday Ring” of Charles V of France, 164, 165 Friedländer, R, & Sohn, ix Frölen Gösta, Washington ring owned by, 192 Fuller, Thomas, 227 G Galba, signet of, 131 Galen, soporific ring in supposed treatise of, 337 Galleria Carrara, Bergamo, 61 Gallo-Roman rings, 59, 202 Gardiner, Bishop, of “cramp rings,” 343 Garnet, 21, 86, 109, 110, 111, 125, 178, 227, 335 curious test of genuineness of, 340 Gauge, Allen’s Standard, 356 Gauge, Engelmann’s ring, finger and millimeter, 359 Gaveston, Piers, carries off bishops’ rings, 276 Genesis, signet mentioned in, 115 Genlis, Mme. de, “Sapphire Merveilleux” by, 326 Geoffroy Rufus, Bishop, ring of, 275 George I, wedding rings frequently worn on thumb in reign of, 194 George III, 43, 151 George IV, ring of, with portrait of Mrs. Fitzherbert, 224 Germanic Museum, Nuremberg, 210 German rings, 17, 45, 58, 75, 85, 88, 158, 163, 167, 171, 172, 200, 208–210, 216, 221, 227–229, 235, 273, 274, 305 Germans, ancient, rings of, 17 “Gesta Romanorum,” story of ring in, 300, 306, 307, 345, 346 Ghirlandajo’s portrayal of the betrothal of the Virgin, 203 Giardinetti rings, 74 Gilgamesh Epic, porphyry ring mentioned in, 96 Gimmal ring, 218–220 Glasgow, explanation of arms of city of, 216 Glass rings, 109, 144 Glenn, L. C., viii Goclenius, 353 Gold-plated rings, 109 Gold quartz, 335 Gorius, 33 Gothic rings, 163 Gottheil, Richard, vii Gratacap, L. P., viii Greek Church, usage as to wedding rings in, 203, 204 Greek-letter fraternities, rings of, 334 Greek rings, 7–10, 51, 69, 110, 111, 112, 122, 124, 126, 198, 251, 256 Greenfield, Archbishop, ring of, 272 Greer, Right Rev. David H., viii, seal of, 279, 280 Gregory, St., formula as to bishops’ rings in Sacramental of, 267, 268 Gregory XIII, Pope, 281 Gregory XVI, 35 Gregory, Nyassa, St., 256 Gresham, Sir Thomas, wedding ring of, 219 Grien, Hans Baldung, 62 Grimm, Jacob, in betrothal rings in Germany, 207 Grossherzoglich-Hessisches Museum, Darmstadt, 73 Guild of ring-makers in ancient Rome, 16 Gyges, magic ring of, 289–291, 307, 314 H Hadrian, value of rings in time of, 98 signet of, 134 Hadrian IV, sends emerald ring to Henry II, when granting sovereignty of England over Ireland, 176 Hafiz of Shiraz, 289 Hamilton, Lord John, sapphire ring sent to, by Mary, Queen of Scots, 184 Hammer-Purgstall, Joseph von, 142 Hamper, William, thumb-ring owned by, 339 Han Dynasty, jade rings of, 105 Hannibal, rings taken by, at battle of Cannæ, 11, 12 Hapgood, Mrs. Isabel, viii Harnham Hill, ring found at, 195 Harrower, Miss Katherine, signet owned by, 160 Hâtshepset, Queen, signet of, 117 Hatton, Lord Chancellor, sends healing ring to Queen Elizabeth, 350 Hatzfeldt, Princess, portrait of, 61 Healing rings, 336–354 Hebrew rings, 85, 115, 134, 213, 214, 252, 253, 338, 366 Helen of Troy, magic ring of, 92, 292 Heliodorus, describes a ring in his “Æthiopica,” 111 Henri II, medal of, with figure of diamond ring, 170 Henry II receives emerald ring from Pope Hadrian IV with grant of sovereignty over Ireland, 176 Henry III, of England, rings among Crown Jewels of, 55 pawns jewels of Edward the Confessor’s shrine, 175 Henry IV of England, decree of against spurious rings, 114 Henry V of England, 166 Henry VI, of England, serjeants’ rings in time of, 49 Henry VII of England, gives rings as tournament prizes, 181 Henry VIII, 182, 189 portrait of, 59 Henrietta Maria, Queen, signet of, 153–156 Heraclius, Emperor, 141 “Hermit’s stone” in ring, 305 Herrick, Robert, 218 Hervée, Bishop, ring of, 273 Hilary, Bishop, ring of, 272 Hindu rings, 63, 77–80, 85, 101–103, 223, 321 Hirth, Friedrich, viii “Hnited” (The Welded), mystic ring given King Olaf by Ulf the Red, 323 Hodge, F. W., viii Hogarth, William, 94 Hohenzollern Museum, Berlin, 224 Holbein, Hans, 59 Holmes, W. H., viii Hololith rings, 97, 99 sqq. Homeric epics, rings not mentioned in, 8 Hope, Henry Philip, 325 Horace, 44, 53 on Thynnian rings, 71 Horseshoe-nail rings, 110 Hough, Walter, viii, 24 Humerous mottoes on rings, 221, 222 Hungarian rings, 166, 318 Hunila, Gothic ring of, 163 Hunyady, John, ring story concerning, 166 Huntington, Archer M., 278 Hyalite, 227 I Iconographic rings, 74 Imperial Kunstgewerbe Museum, Vienna, 87 Indians, American, rings of, 17–30 Innocent III sends four rings to Richard Cœur de Lion, 178 definition of bishops’ rings by, 273 Iolite, 227 Irene, Empress, wife of Alexis Comnenus, 144 Irish rings, 85, 226 one set with diamonds found near Mallingor, Co. Westmeath, 191 Iron rings, 10, 11, 17, 84, 228, 328 Isaiah on rings of Hebrew women, 65 Isidore of Seville, 52, 70, 195, 267 Isis and Serapis, ring figuring, 57, 70 Isis, rings dedicated to statue of, in Spain, 252 Italian rings, 74, 79, 85, 109, 147, 214, 262–265 Ivory rings, 84, 104, 113, 120, 136 J Jacinth, (zircon), 21, 78, 86, 124, 340 healing power of, set in a ring, 340 Jade, 158 ring box of in Bishop Collection, 55 entire rings of, 105–108, 319 Jadeite, 158 Jackson, A. V. Williams, viii, 160 James, Epistle of, wearer of gold ring in, 14 James I, sapphire ring announcing Elizabeth’s death brought to, 188, 189 James IV of Scotland, turquoise ring of, 181, 182 Japanese rings, 82, 85 Jasper, 33, 87, 257 entire ring of, 99 Jastrow, Morris, Jr., viii Jean Sans-Peur, Duke of Burgundy, ring of, 149 Jeanne d’Arc, rings of, 347, 348 Jeffreys, Judge, ring of, 190, 191 Jehangir Shah, entire emerald ring of, 101 entire ruby ring of, 102 Jemshid, magic ring of, 116 Jeremiah, on the signet ring, 135 Jeroboam II, King of Israel, signet ring from time of, 366 Jet, entire ring of, 108 John, King, jewels of, 55 John II of France, ruby ring of, lost at Poitiers, 164, 165 John V, Paleologus, Emperor, 146 John XXII, Pope, stones used in ecclesiastical rings in time of, 276 John Constans, Elector of Saxony, portrait of, 61 John of Salisbury, 176, 177 Johnson, Dr. Samuel, wedding ring of, 223 Jones, William H., viii Jonson, Ben, “ring posy” of, 238 Jordan, Agnes, abbess of Bridgetine Convent, ring on sepulchral image of, 280 Joseph’s ring, 1 Josephus, 132 story of magic ring, 294, 295 Jupiter, ring of priests of, 250 Justinian, Emperor, decree of, regarding rings, 15 Juvenal, 57, 96, 97 Juxon, Bishop, and rings of Charles I, 156 K Kalidasa, 321 Karavongu, Prabha, ix Keith, Minor C., viii Kentigern, St., promises finding of a wedding ring, 216 Key-shaped rings, 71 Khufu (cheops), ring of priest of his pyramid, 118 King, C. W., 111, 147, 157, 171 Kircher, Athomasius, 213 Knights of Columbus, rings of, 332 Knights of Pythias, rings of, 334 Knot, the, as origin of the ring, 2 Koch, Court Jeweller, ring collection of, 209 Konstantinidis Collection at Nicosia, 6 Kunzite, 334 _Kusa_-grass (Saccharum spontaneum) rings of, among the Hindus, 77 L Labouchère, M., 157 Labradorite, 34, 86 Lafayette, ring given to, by Washington, 192 Lalique, René, 87 Lambeccius, 315 Lapidario of Alfonso X, 304, 305, 328 Lapis-lazuli, 50, 63, 96, 117, 158, 171 Lapplanders, magic rings of the, 324 “Latitude and Longitude Ring,” 233 Laufer, Berthold, viii Layard, Sir Austen Henry, 3 Leaden rings, 112, 328 Leaming, Vice-Chancellor E. B., 192 Legal use of a ring, 36 Legend, Scotch, of loss of a wedding ring, 215, 216 Lentulus, signet of, 127 Leo X, Pope, 264, 269 Leopold I, 315 Lessing G. E., tale of rings in his “Nathan der Weise,” 346, 347 Levesque, M., 147 Leyden Papyrus, formulas for magic rings in, 297, 298 Lichtenau, Countess, anecdote of ring taken by, 172 Lincoln, Waldo, ix, 47 Lindenschmidt, Ludwig, 58 Locomotive Engineers, Brotherhood of, ring of, 332 Londesborough collection, 34, 169, 213, 218, 220, 311 London Archæological Institute, 166 “Lorscher Ring,” 73 Lothaire’s signet, 140 Lotto, Lorenzo, 61 Louis I, signet of, 140 Louis VII, donates ring to shrine of Thomas à Becket, 183 Louis IX, supposed signet ring of, 145 Louis XI, 167 Louis XII, signet of, 147, 148 Louis of Luxembourg, Constable, rings given by, 167 Louisa, Queen of Prussia, betrothal ring of, 224 Louvre Museum, 249 Lovat, Lord, memorial ring of, 44 Lucas, Dr. F. A., viii Lucian, tale of a magic ring told by, 122 Lucretius, of Samothracius rings, 70 Lucullus, signet of, 130 Luminous ring, 317 Luther, ring commemorating wedding of, 216, 217 Lyly, Sir Peter, 62 M “Mabinogian,” magic ring in, 307, 308 McCurdy, George Grant, ix Machu Picchu, Inca city of refuge, 83 Macrobius, on ring-finger, 52, 194 Mæcenas, signet of, 130 Magic rings, _see_ talismanic Magnetic iron, 328 “Mahabharata,” rings mentioned in the, 77 Mâharânî of Sikkim, portrait of, 63 (Frontispiece) Malory, Sir Thomas, 309 Mandeville, Sir John, 315 Manx customs as to rings, 205 Marat, effigy of on ring, 76 Maratta, Carlo, portrait by, 278 Marcellus Empiricus, on cure of hiccoughs by the placing of a ring, 336 Marcina, St., the Younger, ring of, 256 Marcus Aurelius, head of, in signet, 140 Margaret of Anjou, 180, 181 Marguerite de Valois, verses written with diamond ring by, 168 Maria of Austria, portrait of, 59 Marius, wore iron ring at triumph, 10 Mark, St., legend of ring of, 312, 314 Marlborough Collection of Gems, 99 Marston John, rings mentioned in play by, 46 Martial, epigrams of, on rings, 34, 53, 54 Mary of Burgundy, ring of, 167 Mary I of England, 183 Mary, Princess, afterwards Queen, portrait of, 60 Mary, Queen of Scots, 155 ring memorials of, 45, 184–186 portrait of, 60 signet ring of, 149–151, 153 ring given her by Elizabeth, 183, 184 wedding ring of, 217, 218 Masonic rings, 331, 332 Materials of rings, 95–114 Mathias, Emperor of Germany, ring of, 168 Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, ring found in tomb of, 179 Maurus, Rabonus, Archbishop of Mainz, 268 Maximilian I, Emperor, betrothal ring of, 234, 235 Maximinus, Emperor, thumb ring of, 58, 162 Mazza, B., viii _Mazzel tob_, inscription on Hebrew betrothal rings, meaning of, 213 Medici, Cosimo dé, _impresa_, with diamond rings, 170 Megenberg, Konrad son, 311 Memorial rings, 40–48 Mendæans of Mesopotamia as silversmiths, 31, 32 Mendoza, Spanish ambassador, ring sent to, by Mary, Queen of Scots, 185 Mercato, Michele, 258 “Merchant of the Ruby,” 180 Merchant’s ring of glass, mentioned in “Piers Plowman,” 144 Mercier, Louis Sebastien, 76 Mercury as bestower of magic rings, 295, 296 Meroë, ring of a queen of, 67 Meronitz, Bohemia, garnets from, 110 Merovingian rings, 58, 72, 73, 137, 138, 257 Meteorites, rings set with peridots from, 330 Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 51, 80, 105, 119, 188 “Michelangelo’s Signet,” 147 Mills, William C., ix Min Yonk Ik, Corean prince, jade rings of, 107 Minoan rings, 116, 118 Minos of Crete, ring of, 291, 292 Mint-marks from signets, 129 Mirror rings, Hindu, 79 Mithridates the Great, 54 Mocha-stone, 87 Mohammed’s seal, 141 Moonstone, 335 Moore, Isabel, ix Moorehead, Warren K., ix, 21, 22 Moose, Loyal Order of, rings of, 332 Morgan, Henri de, 2, 68 Morgan, J. de, 68 Morgan, Octavius, 75 Morse, Edward S., ix “Morte d’Arthur,” story of magic ring in, 309, 310 Moss-agate, 335 Mostiola, St., has betrothal ring of the Virgin, 259 Mother-of pearl, 81 Mottoes, 209–213, 221, 222, 233, 234, 237–248 formed by initials of stones set in rings, 50, 226 Müller, Peter, on legal significance of giving a ring, 204 Murray, George Gilbert Aimé, 4 Musa, Antonius, granted right to wear gold rings, by Augustus, 336 Museo Nacional, Mexico City, Aztec finger-ring in, 20 Mycenæan rings, 6, 68, 99, 109, 118 N Nadir Shah, entire emerald rings of, 101, 102 Nails, horseshoe, rings of, 110, 326 Names of rings in ancient and modern India, 78, 79 in various modern languages, 364–365 “_Naoratna_” (_navaratna_) ring, 78, 321 Napoleon memorial rings, 47, 48 Napoleonic rings, 173 Narwhal tusk, rings of, 341 Natal rings, 90, 91, 328, 329 “Nathan der Weise,” tale of rings in, 346, 347 National Geographic Society, 83 National Hungarian Museum, 16, 318 National Museum at St. Germain-en-Laye, 121 National Museum, Washington, D. C., 85 Navajo Indians, rings of, 22–30 Nelson, Admiral Horatio, memorial rings of, 44 Nero, signet of, 130 New Gallery, London, 225 New York Historical Society, 118 Newall, Edward T., viii Nibelungen Ring, 303 Nider, Johann, legend of miraculous nun’s ring in his Formicarius, 286 Niello, how made and applied, 271 Nippur, record of emerald ring found at, 4, 5 Noe, Sydney P., viii Norfolk, Duke of, donates ring of James IV of Scotland, 181 Numa Pompilius, iron rings worn in age of, 10 rings on statues of, 52 Nuns’ rings, 284–286 O Ohio State Archæological and Historical Society, 19 Ominous substitution for a wedding ring in a Scotch legend, 226 “Oneirocritica” of Artemidorus, 37 Onyx, 39, 111, 158, 159, 328 Opal, 86, 227, 269, 291 Orders and societies, rings of, 332, 333 Origin of the ring, 1–32 Ostby & Barton Co., ix Othman, loses Mohammed’s seal, 141 Otto III of Germany, orders disinterment of Charlemagne’s remains, 302 Overbury, Sir Thomas, 189 Ovid, portrait ring of, 57 on a ring gift, 193 Owen, Sir Richard, 196 P “Pacifying ring,” 233 Papal rings, 262–265 Passion, healing ring with emblems of the, 348, 349 Pearl, 34, 50, 60, 78, 87, 114, 180, 236, 252, 334, 335 figured on portrait of Queen Mary I of England, 60 Peary, Admiral Robert E., ix Pectunculas shells, rings made of, 17 Pelissier, Georges, ix Pembroke, William Herbert, Lord, enjoins in his will that his widow shall enter order of widowhood, 286 Pepys, Samuel, his bequest of rings to his friends, 41 Perfume rings, 38 Peridot (chrysolite), 21, 86, 227, 335 Persian rings, 2, 80, 103, 116, 122, 123 Perugia, betrothal ring of the Virgin at, 100, 222, 258–261 Peruvian rings, 83 Pesaro, Antonio, 61 Peters, Rev. Dr. John P., viii, 160 Peters, Miss Joan St. Michael, signet owned by, 160 Petrarch, on ruby ring of John II of France, 164 Petrie, William Flinders, ix Phenacite, 86 Philip II of Spain, ring sent to by Mary, Queen of Scots, 185, 186 at consecration of “cramp rings,” 245 Philostratus, Flavius, 296 Phocus, ring of, 9 Phœnician rings, 68, 121 Physicians’ rings, 345 Piccolomini Collection, 71 Pierce, President, ring given to, 84 Pinakothek, Munich, 62 Pilloy, L., 59 Pipe-stopper ring, 94 Pius II, Pope, ring of, 262 Pius VI, 263, 264 Pius IX, 263, 281 Planetary rings, 296, 327, 328, 351 Plasma, 274 Platinum rings, 229, 230 Plato, blames Aristotle for wearing rings, 32 on ring of Gyges, 290, 291 Plautus, ring mentioned by, in his “Miles Gloriosus,” 193, 194 of sealing up household goods, 133 Pliny, 1, 8, 10, 53, 104, 121, 195, 199, 336 Plotina, wife of Trojan, supposed ring of, 71 Plutarch, 8, 123 Pococke, Bishop, 191 Poison ring, in ancient Rome, 36 of Hannibal, 36 of Demosthenes, 36 Rubbinical, 36 of the Borgias, 37 Egmont’s, 38 Polish rings, 65 Polycrates, ring of, 120–122 Polygnotus, rings in pictures by, 9 Pompey, 54 signet of, 127, 130 Pomphonica, Roman lady, ring of, 33 Pope, Alexander, 112 Porphyry, 96 Portrait rings, 76 Portraits illustrating ring-wearing, 60–64, 148, 152, 188, 278 Portuguese rings, 172, 173, 328, 329 “Posies” for rings, selection of, 237–247 Prado Gallery, Madrid, 60 Prehnite, 335 Prince, John Dyneley, viii, 365 Prometheus, legend as to ring of, 1, 2 Propertius, of a ring burned in a funeral pyre, 134 Protonotaries’ rings, 281 Proverbs, French, regarding rings, 76 Pueblo Bonito, Nev., rings found at, 108 Pueblo ruins of Arizona and New Mexico, rings from, 17 Purposes, special, of ring wearing, 32–50 Puzzle rings, 219 Pyrite, 335 Pythias, Knights of, rings of, 334 Q Quicksilver rings, 328, 351 R Rabbies’ rings, 252, 253 Rafael’s “Sposalizio” in Brera Gallery, Milan, 203 Raleigh, Sir Walter, lines written with diamond ring by, 169 “Ramayana,” rings mentioned in the, 77 Rameses II, ring of, 249 Rameses III, rings in time of, 97 Rathbun, R., ix Read, Sir Charles Hercules, ix, 58, 99 Reale Galleria d’Arte Antica, Rome, 60 “Regal of France,” large diamond in ornament given by Louis VII to shrine of St. Thomas à Becket, 183 “Regard Rings,” 227 Reinach, Salomon, 121 Religious use of rings, 249–287 “Repeal Ring,” 50 “Reynard the Fox,” magic ring described in, 303, 304 Rhinoceros horn, healing rings of, 338, 352 hoof rings of, 337 Richard, Cœur de Lion receives four gold rings from Pope Innocent III, 178 Richard II, memorial rings of, 41 grants coronation Ring to Westminster Abbey, 174 directs that a ring be put on his finger after death, 179 Rienzi, Cola di, wedding ring of, 214 Riker, William, ix Ring-making, 354–364 Ring-money, 35 Roberts, Oliver A., ix Robespierre rings, 77 Rock-crystal, 125, 149, 158, 328, 335 entire rings of, 100 Rogers, Austin T., ix Roman rings, 10, 33, 52–58, 71–73, 85, 97–99, 100, 104, 113, 126, 128, 130–132, 134, 198, 250, 255, 258–261, 293, 337 rules as to wearing those of iron or gold, 10–16 Roosevelt, Miss Alice (Mrs. Longworth) anecdote regarding ring given to, by Sultan of Sulu, 236, 237 Roscius, Roman actor, right of wearing a ring accorded to, 13 Rossi, Abbot Adamo, 258 Rothschild, Baron Ferdinand, 88 Roty, Oscar, marriage medals of, 232, 233 Royal Collection at Windsor Castle, 147, 156 Rubens’ “Betrothal of Marie de’Medici,” 224 Ruby, 50, 78, 89, 90, 101, 106, 144, 147, 164, 165, 174, 178, 180, 181, 183, 227, 269, 270, 274, 275, 283, 334, 340 entire ring of, 102 Runic inscription on healing ring, 339 Rush-rings, for mock marriages, 206, 207 Russian Church, usage as to wedding rings in, 203, 204 Russian rings, 85, 100, 204 S Saadi, ring story in Gulistan of, 163, 164 Sackvil, Thomas, Duke of Dorset, ring given to by James I, 350 Sagan Kerens of S. E. Asia, superstitious use of rings with, 308 “St. Martin’s Ring,” 113, 114 “Sakuntala” of Kalidasa, magic ring in, 321, 322 Salisbury, Richard, Bishop of, on rush-rings, 206 Samothracian rings, 70, 85 Santo Anello, Capella del, 261 “Saphire Merveilleux,” 325, 326 Sapphire, 36, 74, 78, 89, 143, 158, 161, 176, 178, 179, 184, 188, 189, 227, 269, 270, 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 325, 331, 335, 339 Sard, 158, 159, 337 Sardonyx, 96, 121, 125, 159 Sarum Rite, order of matrimony in the, 196, 197 Sassanian rings, 85, 161 Saxon’s Lode, thumb ring found at, 64 _Scalæ anulariæ_ in Rome, where ring-dealers sold their wares, 16 Scandinavian rings, 323, 324, 339 Scaraboid rings, 51 Scaurus, Emilius, _dactyliotheca_ of, 54 Scheibel, Lieut., ring found by, 300 Schley, Mrs. Annie R., viii Schneider, Hofrat, 172 Scipio Africanus, signet of, 129 Seffrid, Bishop, ring of, 272 Seleucus I, Nicator, signet of, 124 magic ring of, 293 Senlis, Pierre Bishop of, formula for dedicating nun’s rings in his pontifical, 285 Serapis and Isis, ring figuring, 57, 70 head of Serapis on signet, 140 Serjeants’ rings, 48, 50 Serpent rings, 72, 78, 91, 92 Servius Tullius, rings in statues of, 52 Sewall, Archbishop, ring of, 272 Shakespeare, 40, 46, 152, 166, 207, 220, 221, 247, 310, 317 bequest of rings to his friends, 41 signet of, 151 Shashank I (Shishak), ring of, 117 Shaw, Sir Edmund, mourning rings bequeathed by, 349 Shell rings, 17, 18, 21 Shemai, signet ring of, 366 “Shield of David” on healing rings, 339 Shook, Sheridan, amethyst ring worn by, 85 Shujah, Shah, entire emerald ring given by, to British East India Company, 101 to Runjit Singh, 102 Shylock’s turquoise, 220 Siamese rings, 81 Sigfroi, Archbishop, ring of, 274 Sight, restoration of, by rings, 337 Sigismond Augustus of Poland, decree of, as to Hebrew rings, 65 Signet ring or rings of Queen Aah-hotep, 117 of Ahasuerus, 115 of Alexander the Great, 123 of Amenhotep IV, 67 of Antiochus Epiphanes, 125 of the Arabs, 142 of Augustus, 130, 131 of Aurelian, 133 of St. Bernard de Clairvaux, 144 at baptisms, 136 bequests of, 149 betrothal rings used as, 133 of bishops, 137 owned by Lord Byron, 152 of Julius Cæsar, 130 of Charles I of England, 156 of Charles V of France, 146 of Childeric I, 138–140 of Childeric II’s wife, 138 coats of arms on, 149 of Commodus, 131 of Alexis and John Comnenus, 144 of Constantius II, 161 of Dagobert I’s wife, 138 of Darius, 123 dreams of, 132 of early French Kings, 37, 138 of Galba, 131 of Hadrian, 134 of Queen Hatshepset, 117 diamond, of Queen Henrietta Maria, 153–156 ivory, for sealing amphoræ, 120–122 of priest of Khufu’s pyramid, 118 of Lentulus, 127 of Lothaire, 140 of Louis le Debonnaire, 140 of Louis IX, 145 of Louis XII, 147, 148 of Lucullus, 130 of Mæcenas, 130 of Mary Queen of Scots, 149–151 merchants’, 144 “Michelangelo’s Signet,” 147 of Mohammed, 141 mottoes on, in Arabic, 142 of Nero, 130 in platinum or gold, 158 of Polycrates, 120 of Pompey, 127 of Scipio Africanus, 129 of Seleucus, 124 of Shakespeare, 151 of Shemai, 366 superstitious use of, 122, 123 of Sylla, 130 of Thothmes III, 117 of Tiberius, 134 one stolen by Verres, 126, 127 of Wilhelm I of Germany, 158 of President Wilson, 161 of Xerxes, 122 of Zerubbabbel, 135 Skiff, F. J. V., ix Sloane, Sir Hans, rings in collection of, 87 Smith, Sir Thomas, 350 Society of Antiquaries, London, 75 Solomon’s ring, 288, 289 Somers, Lt. Robert, ring given to, by Washington, 192 South Kensington Museum, 190, 315 Spanish rings, 85 Spartans, iron rings of, 10 Spencer, Leonard, ix Spessartite, 335 Sphere, 86 Sphere ring, 88 Spinel, 86 Spodumene, 86 Squirt ring, 148 Staël von Holstein, Baron Erik Magnus, 192 Stanbery, John, Bishop, ring of, 275 Starr, Friedrich, ix State gems for ring setting, 334, 335 Steevens, George, on Shylock’s turquoise, 220 Stephen Radislav, King of Servia, nuptial ring of, 198 Sterling, John, “Onyx Ring” by, 324, 325 Stewart, Rev. Father William J., viii Stone, George C., viii “Stone of Invisibility,” 307 Stone rings, 2, 21 “Stone of Remembrance,” 307 Stoudt, Rev. John Baer, ix Stratonice, wife of Seleucus I, rings dedicated by, 251 Strickland, Agnes, 184 Suetonius, 134 Suffolk, Countess of, takes vow of widowhood, 287 Suidas, 312 Sulu, Sultan of, pearl ring given by, 236, 237 Sunstone, 335 Superstitious use of seal-rings, 122, 123 Surprise rings, 94 Surrya, Prince, 81 Swivel rings, 94 Sylla, signet of, 130 Symeon, Archbishop of Thessalonica, his description of Byzantine marriage ceremony about 1400 A. D., 202 Symbols, Christian, 253–255 Syrian rings, 124, 125, 160 T Tacitus on Germanic iron rings, 17 Taft, ex-President William H., ix, 161, 236 Talismanic and magic rings Albertus Magnus on, 311 Apollonius of Tyana’s, 296, 325 Boniface VIII’s, 306 Charlemagne’s, 300–302 Christian, in British Museum, 257 Clemens Alexandrinus on, 296 as charm against the Evil Eye, 236, 293 fortune-telling by means of, 299 of Frederick I of Prussia, 171, 172 of Gesta Romanorum, 300, 306, 345 of Gyges, 289–291 of Helen of Troy, 92, 292 “Hnited” (“The Welded”) given to King Olaf, 323 in the “Mabinogian,” 307 Sir John Mandeville on, 315 St. Mark’s, 312–314 of Minos of Crete, 291, 292 in “Morte d’Arthur,” 309, 310 _naoratna_ ring of Hindus, 78, 321 in Reynard the Fox, 303 “Saphir Merveilleux,” 325 Scandinavian, 323, 339 of Seluecus I, Nicator, 293 in Sir Eglamore, 310 “Ring of Solomon,” 288, 289 in Sterling’s “Onyx Ring,” 324 superstitious use of, by Sagan Karens, 308 Tewfik Pasha’s experience with one, 322, 323 in “Book of Thetel,” 311 one made by Abbot Tritheim, 314 in Wolfdietrich, 305, 306 in Yuain and Gawin, 310 Tanagra, ring from, 112 Tassi, Agosto, engraver of “Michelangelo’s Signet,” 147 Tavernier, Jean Baptiste, 143, 154, 155 Tedyngton, Richard, keeper of jewels of Edward the Confessor’s shrine, 175 Tertullian on betrothal ring, 199 Tewfik Pasha, experience of, with a magic ring, 322, 323 Theodorus of Samos, engraver of ring of Polycrates, 120 Thomas, Dr. John, Dean of Westminster, 179 Thompson, C. J. S., ix Thothmes III, ring of, 117 Thumb rings, 58, 87, 105–108, 194, 222 Thynnian rings, 70 Tiberius, seal ring of, removed when he became unconscious, 134 Tibetan, 81 Tin rings, 328 Toad swallowing a serpent, ring designed in form of a, 311 Toadstone, warns of poison when worn in a ring, 341 Toe rings, 78, 80 Topaz, 78, 86, 125, 158, 178, 276, 335 Tourmaline, 86 green (“Brazilian emerald”), used for bishops’ rings in Brazil, 277 Tournament, rings as prizes at a, 181 “Tower Rings,” 169 Trallianus, Alexander, recommends ring as cure for biliousness, 338 _Trauring_, German designation of betrothal ring, 209 Tree, Sir Herbert, x Trees sealed with rings, 128 Tricolored magic ring, 304 “Trinity Ring,” 75 Tritheim, Abbot of Spandau, magic ring made by, 314 True-lovers’ knot, 2 Tumulty, J. P., ix Türk, Viennese court jeweller, collection of rings made by, 66 “Turkie,” old name of turquoise, 220 Turquoise, 21, 23, 24, 34, 63, 75, 81, 86, 103, 114, 150, 182, 328, 334 Tyrolean rings, 353 Tyszkiewicz Collection, 121 U Ulysses, ring of, 8 United States National Museum, 85 University Galleries, Oxford, 60 University of Pennsylvania, excavations at Nippur by, 4 V Valens, Emperor, 299 Vandyke, Anthony, 62 Vergil, Polydore, 342 Verney, Sir Edmund, ring given to, by Charles I, 190 Verres, seal ring stolen by, 126 Victoria, Queen, 156, 225 Victoria and Albert Museum (South Kensington Museum), 217, 269, 271 Virgin, betrothal ring of, at Perugia, 100, 222, 258–261 Visigoths, law of, concerning betrothal rings, 200 Vyse, Colonel, 118 W Wada, T., x Waddesdon Bequest, 88 Wade, Mr. and Mrs. J. Homer, 90 Wales, Prince of, ring among insignia of, made by Welsh gold, 283, 284 Walwyn, Francis, engraver of Henrietta Maria’s diamond signet, 154 Warbeck, Perkin, 180 Ward, William Hayes, ix, 3 anecdote of ring bought by, 3, 4 Washington rings, 77, 191, 192 Watch rings, 40, 87, 353 Watelet, M., 147 Waterton, Edmund, 34, 214 Waterton Collection, 217, 269–271 Wearing of rings, methods of, 50–66 Wedding or betrothal rings sent by Clovis I, 201 conditional gift of, 205 diamond, in Shakespeare’s Cymbeline, 221 on which finger placed, 194–197, 203, 215, 222 George IV’s with portrait of Mrs. Fitzherbert, 224, 225 in ancient Germany, 208 in modern Germany, 209 gimmal rings as, 218, 219 gold, already used by Romans in 2d. century, 199 gold, surrendered for iron in Germany, 228 in Greek Church, 202–204 of Sir Thomas Gresham, 219 Hebrew use of, 213, 214 of iron, in early Roman times, 199 of Dr. Samuel Johnson, 223 loss of a, Scotch legend regarding, 216 of Queen Louisa of Prussia, 224 commemorating Luther’s marriage, 216, 217 Manx custom as to, 205 of Mary Queen of Scots, 217 for men, 230 mottoes on, 209, 211, 221, 233–248 with names formed by initial letters of precious stones, 227 obligation involved in giving a, 204 ominous substitute for one, in a Scotch legend, 226 of Cola di Rienzi, 214 rush-ring as, 206 Shylock’s turquoise perhaps in betrothal ring, 220 story of a, in “Cent Nouvelles Nouvelles,” 215 turquoise used for in Germany, 221 Week-day gems for ring-setting, 331 Weininger, Leopold, x Weir, J. Alden, viii Wellington, Duke of, 224 Welsh gold used for Prince of Wales’ ring, 284 Widowhood,” “Ring of, 286, 287 order of, 286, 287 Wier, J. Alden, on rings in portraits, 64 Wild-ass, healing rings made from hoof of, 352 William the Conqueror, tomb of, at Caen destroyed by Huguenots, 179 William Rufus, ring found in tomb of, 179 William I of Germany, 172 signet of used by William II, 158 William IV, of England, Coronation Ring of, 283 William de St. Barbara, ring of, 275 Wilson, President Woodrow, signet-ring of, vi, 161 Winslow, Isaac, memorial ring of, 47 Winslow, Josiah, 47 Wiseman, Cardinal, manuscript describing Solessing of “cramp rings,” owned by, 344, 345 Wiser, David, 108 Wissler, Clark, viii “Wolfdietrich,” story of magic ring in, 305, 306 Wolter, Charlotte, ring of, 90 Woodford, General Sir John, 165 Woodland, Theodore M., viii Writing with diamond ring, 168–170 Wu Ting Fang, jade rings of, 107, 108 Wykeham, Bishop, ring of, 275 Wyman, Walter C., viii Wytlesey, Archbishop of Canterbury, ring of, 275 X Xerxes, signet of, 122 Y “Ywaine and Gawin,” romance, magic ring in, 310 Z Zerubbabel, ring of, 135 Zick, Stephan, ivory ring made by, 75 Zircon (jacinth,) 78, 86, 124, 340 Zodiacal rings, 85, 328, 329 FOOTNOTES: [1] Grandchild. [2] Great grandchild. [3] Signet of the author, reading George F. Kunz, New York. Engraved upon a dark red sard, in Teheran, Persia, in 1895. [4] Fossey, “La magie assyrienne,” Paris, 1902, p. 83. [5] Délégation en Perse, Mémoires publiés sous la direction de M. J. de Morgan, vol. viii, “Recherches archéologiques,” 3d ser., Paris, 1905, pp. 321, 322; figured on p. 320. [6] Communicated by the late Dr. William Hayes Ward. [7] Communicated by the late Dr. William Hayes Ward. [8] Hilprecht and Clay, “Business Documents of Murashû Sons of Nippur”: The Babylonian expedition of the University of Pennsylvania, Series A: Cuneiform texts, vol. ix, Philadelphia, 1898, p. 30. [9] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan and Roman, in the ... British Museum,” London, 1907, pp. 1, 2, 997 (see pl. xx); also the same author’s Catalogue of the Jewellery Greek, Etruscan and Roman, in the ... British Museum, London, 1911, p. xvii. [10] Max Ohnefalsch-Richter, “Kypros, the Bible, and Homer,” London, 1893, vol. i, p. 367, and vol. ii, plate xxxii, fig. 32. [11] Strena Helbigena, 73; Journal of Hellenic Studies, vol. xxi, p. 155, fig. 33; p. 159, fig. 39; Schliemann Mycenæ and Tiryns, pp. 354, 360. [12] See F. H. Marshall, _op. cit._, p. 3; rings from Enkomi, Cyprus. [13] Pauly’s Real Encyclopädie der Altertumswissenschaft, vol. ix, pt. i, col: 827; Stuttgart, 1914; Marshall, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan, and Roman, in the British Museum, London, 1907, No. 574. [14] Corpus inscriptionum Græcarum, 3137, i, 87 sq. [15] Le Brun-Dalbanne, “Les Pierres gravées du trésor de la cathédrale de Troyes,” Paris, 1880, p. 32. [16] Aristophanes, “Knights,” Act II, sc. 4. [17] Æliani, “Varia historia,” Lib. I, cap. xxi. [18] Lib. xxxiii, cap. iv. [19] _Ibid., loc. cit._ [20] M. Deloche, “Le port des anneaux dans l’antiquité romaine, et dans les premiers siècles du moyen âge”; extrait des Mémoires de l’Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres, vol. xxxv, Paris, 1896, pp. 4, 5. [21] Titi Livii, “Ab urbe condita,” lib. xxiii, cap. xii. [22] Sat. iii, lines 153–156. [23] Titi Livii, “Ab urbe condita,” lib. xlii, cap. xvi. [24] Valerii Maximi, “Factorum et dictorum memorabilium libri IX,” lib. viii, cap. i. [25] See Plinii, “Naturalis Historia,” lib. xxxiii, cap. xxiii. [26] “Naturalis Historia,” lib. xxxiii, cap. xi. [27] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan and Roman,” in the ... British Museum, London, 1907, p. xix, citing Macrobius, Saturnalia III, 14, 13, and Cicero, Ad. Fam. X, 32, 2. [28] Clementis Alexandrini, “Pædagogus,” lib. iii, cap. ii. [29] Beck, “Corpus juris civilis,” vol. ii, pp. 406, 407. [30] “Cimeliotheca Musei Nationalis Hungarici, sive catalogus historico-criticus antiquitatum, raritatum, et pretiosorum--eius instituti,” Budæ, 1825, p. 136. [31] Corpus inscriptionum Latinarum, vol. i, No. 1107. [32] _Ibid._, vol. xi, No. 1235. [33] Suetonii: “Vita Augusti,” 72. [34] Cicero, “In Verrem,” iv, 25, 26. [35] Deloche, “Le port des anneaux dans l’antiquité romaine, et dans les premiers siècles du moyen âge,” Paris, 1896, pp. 46, 47; extrait des Mémoires de l’Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres, vol. xxxv, part ii. [36] Jesse Walter Fewkes, “Two Summers’ Work in Pueblo Ruins,” Bureau of American Ethnology, vol. xxii, pt. i, p. 91. Also the same writer’s “Casa Grande, Arizona,” Bureau of American Ethnology, vol. xxviii, pp. 143, 144; rings figured on pl. lxxv, fig. _A_, and in text cut, fig. 49. [37] Communications from Prof. George Grant McCurdy, Curator, Anthropological Section of Peabody Museum of Natural History, Yale University, and from Dr. Frank S. Daggett, Director, Museum of History, Science and Art, Los Angeles, Cal. [38] Communicated by Dr. William C. Mills, Curator and Librarian of the Museum. [39] W. W. Blake, “The Antiquities of Mexico,” New York, 1891, p. 74, figure. [40] _Ibid._, p. 73, figures. [41] Warren K. Moorehead, “Primitive Men in Ohio,” New York, 1892, p. 148; see plate xxvi, p. 152. [42] Warren K. Moorehead, “Stone Age in North America,” Boston and New York, 1910, vol. i, p. 440, fig. 385, ring in Collection of B. H. Young, Louisville, Kentucky. [43] See the writer’s “Magic of Jewels and Charms,” Philadelphia and London, 1915, pp. 352, 353; colored plate opp. p. 352. [44] Warren K. Moorehead, “A Narration of Exploration in New Mexico, Arizona, Indiana, etc.,” Andover, Mass., 1906, p. 89, fig. 45. [45] Not named after Charles L. Tiffany. [46] Communicated by Walter Hough, Acting Head Curator, Dept. of Anthropology, United States National Museum, Washington, D. C. [47] Communicated by Joseph K. Dixon, Secretary of the National American Indian Memorial Association. [48] The details in this and the following paragraphs are taken from Washington Matthews, “Navajo Silversmiths,” in the Second Annual Report of the Bureau of American Ethnology, 1880–1881, Washington, 1881, pp. 171–178. [49] _Op. cit._, between pp. 174 and 175, plate showing silversmith’s shop set up near Fort Wingate. [50] “An Ethnologic Dictionary of the Navaho Language,” published by the Franciscan Fathers, Saint Michaels, Arizona, 1910, p. 271. [51] This is a well-printed octavo of 536 pages, with a most comprehensive index. [52] _Op. cit._, pp. 283, 284. [53] Communicated by Admiral Peary in a letter to the author, February 13, 1916. [54] C. W. King, “Antique Gems,” London, 1860, p. 281; citing Ælian, iii, 19. [55] Frederick William Fairholt, “Rambles of an Archæologist,” London, 1871, p. 86, with figure of ring. [56] J. P. Mariette, “Traité des pierres gravées,” Paris, 1750, vol. i, p. 18. [57] See Marshall, “Catalogue of the finger rings, Greek, Etruscan, and Roman, in the departments of antiquities, British Museum,” London, 1907, p. xxvi, note. [58] Archæological Journal, London, 1863, vol. xx, p. 75. [59] London, 1853, p. 6. [60] O. M. Dalton, “Franks Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later” (British Museum), London, 1912, p. 122, No. 792, pl. xi. [61] X. Barbier de Montault, “Le costume et les usages ecclésiastiques selon la tradition romaine,” Paris, 1897, vol. i, pp. 176, 177. [62] Historical Manuscripts Commission, Report of MSS. in various collections, vol. iv, Dublin, 1907, p. 59. [63] Plinii, Hist. Nat., lib. xxxiii, cap. xxv. [64] “Neuhebräisches und Chaldäisches Wörterbuch,” by Jacob Levy, Leipzig, 1879, vol. ii, p. 139, s. v. tabba’ath. [65] Artemidorus, “Oneirocritica,” ii, 5. [66] Davenport, “Jewelry,” Chicago, 1908, pp. 127, 128. [67] Frederick William Fairholt, “Rambles of an Artist,” London, n. d. (1865?), p. 144, fig. 177. [68] John Lathrop Motley, “The Rise of the Dutch Republic,” New York, 1856, Vol. iii, pp. 558, 559, citing a curious Dutch pamphlet published at Leyden in 1582 and consisting of two letters, one from Bruges, dated July 25, 1582, the other written two days later from Antwerp. [69] C. J. S. Thompson, “Poison Romance and Poison Mysteries,” London, n.d., 2d. ed., p. 123. [70] O. M. Dalton, “Catalogue of the Finger-rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval, and Later [British Museum],” London, 1912, p. lv. [71] O. M. Dalton, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Mediæval and Later,” bequeathed by Sir Augustus Wollaston Franks (British Museum), London, 1912, p. 243, No. 1698, pl. xxiii. [72] O. M. Dalton, “Franks Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later” (British Museum), London, 1912, p. 245, No. 1708, pl. xxiii. [73] “Memorial Rings, Charles the Second to William the Fourth, in the Possession of Frederick Arthur Crisp,” privately printed (London). The data in this and succeeding paragraphs treating of memorial rings, are (unless otherwise noted) derived from this valuable and interesting work. [74] Crisp Collection, No. 334, p. 115. [75] No. 632, p. 197. [76] Crisp Collection, No. 981, p. 317. [77] No. 165, p. 69. [78] Notes and Queries, 11th ser., No. 311, December 11, 1915, p. 469. [79] A. E. Cropper, “Some Notes On Three Classes or Types of Rings,” in The Connoisseur, London, vol. xix, p. 184, September to December, 1907. [80] Communicated by L. Weininger, of Vienna. [81] O. M. Dalton, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later,” bequeathed by Sir Augustus Wollaston Franks, K.C.B. (British Museum, London, 1912, p. xxxiii, footnote.) [82] O. M. Dalton, “Franks Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval, and Later [British Museum],” London, 1912, p. 204, No. 1417. [83] Communicated by Waldo Lincoln, the owner of the ring. [84] O. M. Dalton: “Franks Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later [British Museum],” London, 1912, p. 232, No. 1628. [85] Szendrei, “Catalogue de la collection de bagues de Mme. de Tarnóczy,” Paris, 1889, pp. 142, 143. [86] Charles Edwards, “The History and Poetry of Finger-Rings,” New York, 1855, pp. 86–90. [87] Hon. R. C. Neville (4th baron Braybrooke), “The Romance of the Ring, or the History and Antiquity of Finger Rings,” Saffron Walden, 1856, pp. 25, 26. [88] Londesborough Collection: Catalogue of a collection of ancient and mediæval rings and personal ornaments, London, 1853, p. 7. Privately printed. [89] Compte rendu de la Commission Arch. de St. Pétersbourg, 1864, p. 182. [90] Macrobii, “Saturnalia,” Lipsiæ, 1868, p. 446, lib. vii, cap. 13. [91] “Historia Naturalis,” liber xxxiii, 24. [92] Sancti Isidori Hispalensis Episcopi, “Opera Omnis,” vol. iv, col. 702, Etymologiæ, lib. xix, cap. 33, vol. lxxxii of Migne’s Patrologia Latina, Paris, 1850. [93] “Historia Naturalis,” lib. xxxiii, cap. 6. [94] Duffield Osborne, “Engraved Gems,” New York, 1912, p. 107. [95] Plinii, “Naturalis Historia,” lib. xxxvii, cap. 11. [96] Martialis, “Epigrammata,” xi, 59. [97] Martial, Bk. XIV, No. cxxiii; from “Martial translated into English prose,” London, George Bell & Sons, 1897. [98] Hardy, “Rotuli litterarum patentium in tursi Londinensi asseverati,” London, 1835, vol. i, pt. i, p. 55. [99] Rymer, “Fœdera,” London, 1727, vol. i, pp. 878, 879. [100] _Op. cit._, vol. ii, pp. 249, 250, No. 760, illustration. [101] Schaumi, “De annulis,” Francofurti, 1620, cap. ix. [102] Col. T. C. Hendley, “Indian Jewellery,” London, 1909, p. 79. Journal of Indian Art and Industry. [103] Luciani, “Opera Omnia,” Paris, 1615, p. 712. [104] Juvenal Sat. I, ll, 26–30. [105] Schaumi, “De annulis,” Francofurti, 1620, cap. iv. [106] Tristia, Lib. i, el. vii. [107] Julii Capitolini, “Maximini duo,” cap. vi; Scriptores hist. August., vol. ii, p. 7. [108] Deloche, “Le port des anneaux dans l’antiquité et dans les premiers siècles du moyen âge,” pp. 61–63. [109] O. M. Dalton, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later, bequeathed by Sir Augustus Wollaston Franks, K.C.B. (British Museum),” London, 1912, pp. xxv, xxvii, 1, figs. 6, 15. [110] Berthold Laufer, “Notes on Turquoise in the East,” Field Museum of Natural History, Pub. 169, Anthrop. Ser., vol. xiii, No. 1, plate 1; Chicago, July, 1913. [111] Communicated by J. Alden Weir, N.A., in letter of March 15, 1916. [112] Journal of Archæology, vol. iii, p. 268. [113] John Ogilby, Africa, London, 1671, p. 559. [114] Vogelstein and Rieger, “Geschichte der Juden in Rom,” vol. i, p. 337. [115] Sir John Gardner Wilkinson, “Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians,” vol. iii, p. 373. [116] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan, and Roman, in the Departments of Antiquities, British Museum,” p. 50, Nos. 278–281; pl. vii, No. 281. [117] See F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan, and Roman, in the Departments of Antiquities, British Museum,” London, 1907, pp. xxxvii-xlix. [118] Figured in Caylus, “Receuil d’antiquités,” vol. ii, p. 310. [119] Sancti Isidori Hispalensis Episcopi, “Opera Omnia,” vol. iv, col. 702, Etymologiæ, lib. xix, cap. 32; vol. lxxxii of Migne’s Patrologia Latina, Paris, 1850. [120] C. D. E. Fortnum, “Additional Notes on Finger Rings and on Some Engraved Gems of the Early Christian Period,” Archæological Journal. [121] Dom Bernard de Montfaucon, “L’Antiquité expliqué,” Paris, 1724, Suppl., vol. viii, p. 40; pl. xiv, opp. p. 43, two views, side and front. [122] M. Deloche: “Étude historique et archéologique sur les anneaux sigillaires,” Paris, 1900, pp. 225, 226, figs. [123] Friedrich Henkel, “Der Lorscher Ring,” Trier, 1896. [124] C. W. King, “Notices of Glyptic Archæology exhibited by the Archæological Institute in June, 1861,” London (Report from Archæological Journal), p. 12. [125] “Catalogue of the Special Exhibition of Works of Art at the South Kensington Museum, June, 1862,” section 32, “Rings,” by Edmund Waterton, p. 622. [126] De Laborde, “Notice des émaux du Musée du Louvre,” 2d Part, “Documents et Glossaire,” p. 131, s. v. Anel. [127] Cyril Davenport, “Jewellery,” Chicago, 1908, p. 118. [128] William Jones, “Finger-Ring Lore,” London, 1877, pp. 487, 488. [129] T. N. Mukharji, “Art Manufactures of India,” Calcutta, 1888, pp. 105–107. [130] T. N. Mukharji, “Art Manufactures of India,” pp. 124–128, Calcutta, 1888. [131] O. M. Dalton, “Franks Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval, and Later [British Museum],” London, 1912, p. 247, fig. [132] Col. T. H. Hendley, “Indian Jewellery,” Journal of Indian Art and Industry, vol. xii, pp. 4, 5; 1907–1909. Figs. on plates 6, 7, 8, 15, 18. [133] _Ibid._, p. 103. [134] Communicated by Dr. Berthold Laufer, Curator of Anthropology, Field Museum of Natural History, Chicago. [135] Communicated by Mr. F. W. Partridge, through Mr. Walter C. Wyman. [136] O. M. Dalton, “Franks Bequest: Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later [British Museum],” London, 1912, p. 336, No. 2422, Pl. xxx. [137] Communicated by Dr. T. Wada, of Tokio. [138] Hiram Bingham, “The Story of Machu Picchu,” in The National Geographic Magazine, February, 1915, pp. 172–217. [139] Communicated by Prof. Frederick Starr, of the University of Chicago. [140] Charles Edwards, “The History and Poetry of Finger-Rings,” New York, 1885, pp. 42–44; quoting from Gleason’s Pictorial Newspaper, December 25, 1852. [141] Communicated by Dr. Leonard J. Spencer, Curator of the Department of Mineralogy, British Museum (Nat. Hist.). [142] Figured in _Journal der Goldschmiede Kunst_, 30 Jahrg., No. 27, Leipzig, July 3, 1909, p. 220. [143] See also p. 353 of the present work. [144] Communicated by L. Weininger, of Vienna. [145] O. M. Dalton, “Catalogue of Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later [British Museum],” London, 1912, p. 243, No. 1700, Plate xxiii. [146] Sir Charles Hercules Read, “The Waddesdon Bequest: Catalogue of the Works of Art Bequeathed to the British Museum by Baron Ferdinand Rothschild, M.P.,” 1898; London, 1902, p. 94. [147] O. M. Dalton, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval, and Later [British Museum],” London, 1912, p. 87, No. 571, fig. [148] Communicated by L. Weininger, of Vienna. [149] The Cleveland Museum of Art, Catalogue of the Inaugural Exhibition, June 6 to September 20, 1916, Cleveland, 1916, p. 68, No. 109. [150] Frederick William Fairholt, “Rambles of an Artist,” London, n. d., p. 77, fig. 88. A later edition of this book, dated 1871, bears the title, “Rambles of an Archæologist.” [151] From the collection of W. Gedney Beatty, New York City. [152] “Les bagues des tranchées,” _L’Illustration_, July 3, 1915, p. 20, with cuts showing soldiers at work and specimens of their rings. [153] Frederick William Fairholt, “Rambles of an Artist,” London, 1880, p. 141, fig. 171. [154] Morris Jastrow, Jr., “The Civilization of Babylonia and Assyria,” Philadelphia and London, 1915, pp. 459, 460. [155] Sir J. Gardner Wilkinson, “Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians,” revised by Samuel Birch, New York, 1879, vol. ii, p. 340, note by Birch. [156] Juvenal, sat. vi, 1, 382. [157] Persius, sat. i, l, 16. [158] Juvenal, sat. vii, ll, 143, 144. [159] _Idem_, sat. xiii, ll, 138, 139. [160] Ulpian, L., 6 _sqq._, De bon. damnat. [161] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan and Roman, in the Departments of Antiquities, British Museum,” London, 1907, pp. 127–129, pl. xx, 778, 785, 790, and text figures 106, 107 on p. 129. [162] From a personal letter to the writer, dated February 21, 1916. [163] C. W. King, “Antique Gems and Rings,” London, 1872, p. 373. [164] See pp. 222, 258–261 of present work, and plate opposite p. 316 of the writer’s, “The Curious Lore of Precious Stones,” Philadelphia and London, 1913. [165] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan, and Roman, in the Departments of Antiquities, British Museum,” London, 1907, p. 110, No. 654, pl. xvii. [166] Bosio, “Roma Sotteranea,” Romæ, 1672, vol. i, p. 211. [167] Gorlæi, “Dactyliotheca,” 1672, vol. i, p. 211; cited in “Dictionnaire d’Archéologie Chrétienne et de Liturgie,” Paris, 1907, vol. ii, col. 2194, figures. [168] King, “Natural History of Precious Stones,” London, 1870, p. 297. [169] Blochmann, “Ain-i-Akbari,” Calcutta, 1871, p. 414 and Wills, “The Land of the Lion and the Sun,” London, 1883, p. 376; cited in Ball, “A Description of Two Large Spinel Rubies,” Dublin, 1894, p. 390; reprint from Proc. of the Roy. Ir. Soc., 3d ser., vol. iii, No. 2. [170] T. H. Hendley, “Indian Jewellery,” _Journal of Indian Art and Industry_, vol. xii, 1907–1909, p. 166; pl. 141. Gul-Begum, “The History of Humâyûn,” translated by Annette S. Beveridge, London, 1902, p. 121, note; Orient Trans. Fund, n. s., vol. i. [171] Hodder M. Westropp, “A Manual of Precious Stones and Antique Gems,” London, 1874, p. 120. No. 1627 of British Museum Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan and Roman, in the Dept. of Antiquities, by F. H. Marshall, London, 1907. [172] Oneirocritica, lib. ii, cap. 5. [173] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan, and Roman, in the Departments of Antiquities, British Museum,” London, 1907, p. xxxvii; see plate xxiv, Nos. 1621, 1624. [174] Figured in Leviticus, “Geillustreerde encyclopedie der diamantnijverheid,” Haarlem, 1907, p. 229. [175] “The Heber R. Bishop Collection of Jades,” New York, vol. ii, p. 259, illustration. [176] Science, vol. iv, No. 82, pp. 172, 173, with cut of the ring; vol. iv, No. 85, pp. 270, 271, communication by Edward S. Morse on the subject; vol. vi, No. 126, July 3, 1885, reply of George F. Kunz, citing letter of Lieut. G. C. Foulke, U.S.N., of U. S. Legation at Seoul, Corea. [177] Communicated by Stewart Culin, Brooklyn Institute. [178] Heinrich Fischer, “Nephrit und Jadeit,” Stuttgart, 1880, pp. 39, 334, fig. 52 on page 39. [179] George H. Pepper, “The Exploration of a Burial Room in Pueblo Bonito, New Mexico,” Putnam Anniversary Volume, New York, 1909, p. 244, fig. 7. [180] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan and Roman, in the ... British Museum,” London, 1907, p. xxxii. [181] A natural or artificial mixture of gold and silver found native at Vorospotak, Transylvania, and elsewhere, mentioned by Herodotus. The electros, ἧλεκτρος, of Homer and Strabo; Pliny, xxxiii, 23; although this word was most frequently used to designate amber. Varying in specific gravity from 15.5 to 12.5. The ratio of gold to silver is 1:1. Specific gravity of gold, 19.33; silver, pure, 10.5; correspond to 35.3 per cent. of silver, gold 64.7 per cent. Pliny states that when the proportion of silver to gold is 1:4 (20 per cent.), it is called electra. [182] Corpus Inscriptionum Atticarum, ii (5), 767 b, 1, 19. [183] J. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan and Roman, in the ... British Museum,” London, 1907, p. xxxi. [184] “Heliodorou Aithiopikôn, biblia deka,” Parisiois, 1804, pt. i, pp. 190–192. [185] C. W. King, “The Natural History of Precious Stones and Gems,” London, 1865, p. 64. [186] F. H. Marshall, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Greek, Etruscan, and Roman, in the Departments of Antiquities, British Museum,” London, 1907, pp. xxxv, xxxvi. [187] “Cimeliotheca Musei Nationalis Hungarici sive catalogus historico-criticus antiquitatum raritatum et pretiosorum eius instituti,” Budæ, 1825, p. 136. [188] Francis Cohen, “St. Martin’s rings,” Archæologia, vol. xviii, pt. i, London, 1815, pp. 55, 56. [189] Communicated by Prof. A. V. Williams Jackson, of Columbia University, who cites G. B. Browne’s “Literary History of Persia” (London and New York, 1906), vol. ii, p. 123, note 3, and Louisa Stuart Costello, “Rose Garden of Persia,” London, 1887, p. 33. [190] British Museum, Fourth Egyptian Room, No. 201 (Table Case J). [191] British Museum, Fourth Egyptian Room, No. 202. [192] British Museum, Fourth Egyptian Room, No. 204. [193] British Museum, Fourth Egyptian Room, No. 217. [194] W. M. Flinders Petrie, “A History of Egypt During the XVII and XVIII Dynasties,” London, 1904, pp. 9, 10. [195] W. M. Flinders Petrie, “A History of Egypt from the Earliest Times to the XVI Dynasty,” New York, 1895, p. 42. [196] New York Historical Society, “Catalogue of Egyptian Antiquities,” New York, 1915, p. 63; No. 1046, figs. 1, 2 and 3. [197] Adolph Furtwängler, “Die Antiken Gemmen,” Leipzig and Berlin, 1900, vol. iii, p. 31. [198] A descriptive atlas of the Cesnola Collection of Cypriote Antiquities in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, by Louis P. di Cesnola, vol. iii, pt. i, New York, 1903, pl. xxiv, Nos. 12 and 13. [199] _Ibid_., pl. xxv, figs. 10 and 12. [200] Alexander Palma di Cesnola, “Salaminia (Cyprus), The History, Treasures and Antiquities of Salamis in the Island of Cyprus,” London, 1884, p. 73, figs. 7 and 13 on pl. vii. [201] Lib. iii, caps. 40–43. [202] Pædagogus, lib. iii, cap. ii. [203] Adolf Furtwängler, “Die Antiken Gemmen,” Berlin, 1900, vol. ii, p. 273, vol. iii, p. 81; see vol. i, plate lxi, No. 11. [204] Reinach, “Cultes, Mythes et Religions,” Paris, 1906, vol. ii, p. 214. [205] Duffield Osborne, “Gem Engraving,” New York, 1912, p. 287. [206] Luciani, “Opera,” vol. iii, Lipsiæ, 1881, pp. 119, 120. Philopseudes, 37. [207] Plutarchi, “Vitæ,” vol. ii, Lipsiæ, 1879, p. 32. Timoleon, 31. [208] “De rebus gestis Alexandri Magni, regis Macedoniæ,” lib. vi, No. 6. [209] Justini, “Historiarum phillipicarum libri XLIV,” lib. xv, cap. 4. [210] Adolf Furtwängler, “Die antiken Gemmen,” Leipzig and Berlin, 1900, vol. iii, p. 150. [211] “Le Cabinet de la Bibliothèque de Sainte Geneviève,” by the Rev. Father Claude du Molinet, Paris, 1692, p. 29. [212] “The Natural History, Ancient and Modern, of Precious Stones and Gems,” London, 1865, pp. 60, 61; Anthology ix, 752; ix, 748. [213] M. Tullii Ciceronis, “In Verrem, lib. iv,” Oratio nona, cap. 26. [214] Ciceronis, “In Catilinam,” iii, cap. v. [215] Georgii Longi, “De annulis signatoriis antiquorum,” Francofurti et Lipsiæ, 1709, p. 24, citing Plutarch’s life of Pompey. [216] _Ibid._, p. 40. [217] _Ibid._, p. 115. [218] Edward T. Newell, “Historia numorum,” Oxford, 1911, p. 159. [219] W. J. Andrew, “A Remarkable Hoard of Silver Pennies and Halfpennies of the Reign of Stephen, found at Sheldon, Derbyshire, in 1867,” in _The British Numismatic Journal_, 1st ser., vol. vii (1911), pp. 52, 56; see pl. ii, fig. 27. [220] P. J. Mariette, “Traité des pierre gravées,” Paris, 1750, vol. i, pp. 23, 24. [221] P. J. Mariette, “Traité des pierre gravées,” Paris, 1750, vol. i, p. 20. [222] Georgii Longi, “De anulis signatoriis antiquorum,” p. 25; Artemidori, “Oneirocriticon,” lib. v, cap. 32, i, 709. [223] Josephus, “History of the Jews,” book xix, chap. 2. [224] Act II, sc. i, ver. 58. [225] Vopisci, “Divus Aurelianus,” in Scriptores hist. August., vol. ii, p. 184. [226] Abbé Barrand, “Des bagues à toutes les époques,” Paris, 1864, p. 177; reprint from _Bulletin Monumental_, vol. xxx. [227] Plinii, “Naturalis Historia,” lib. xxxiii. [228] Suetonii, “Vita Cæsarum,” Tiberius. [229] Lib. iv, No. vii. [230] Albert G. Mackey, “The Book of the Chapter: or Monitorial Instructions in the Degrees of Mark, Past and Most Excellent Master and the Royal Arch,” New York, 1858, p. 128. [231] “Le Cabinet de la Bibliothèque de Sainte Geneviève,” by the Rev. Father Claude du Molinet, Paris, 1692, p. 3, pl. 8, fig. 5, impression of seal; the letters are rather irregularly disposed. [232] Clementis Alexandrini, “Pædagogus,” lib. iii, cap. ii. [233] O. M. Dalton, “Franks Bequest, Catalogue of Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later (British Museum),” London, 1912, p. 120, No. 778. [234] SS. Zenonis et Optati, “Opera omnia,” in Migne’s Patrologia Latina, vol. xi, Paris, 1845; S. Optati, “De schismate Donatistiarum,” lib. i, cap. 10, note. [235] Philippi Labbæi and Cossarti, “Sacrosancta concilia,” vol. iv, col. 1403. [236] Deloche, “Le port des anneaux dans l’antiquité romaine, et dans les premiers siècles du moyen âge,” Paris, 1896, pp. 108, 109; from Mémoires de l’Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres, vol. xxxv. [237] M. Deloche in Revue archéologique, 3d Series, 1886, vol. ii, p. 141 and 1893, vol. i, p. 269. [238] See also the same writer’s “Étude historique et archéologique sur les anneaux sigillaires,” Paris, 1900, p. 203, fig. This ring was found at Laon, dept. Aisne. [239] “Anastasis Childerici I Francorum regis, sive Thesaurus sepulchralis Tornaci Nerviorum effossus et commentario illustratus,” Antverpis, ex officina Plantaniana Balthazaris Moreti, 1655. This is a quarto of 367 pages, with 27 plates and copper-plate engravings. [240] Deloche “Anneaux Sigillaires,” Paris, 1900, pp. 192, 193. [241] C. W. King, “On the Use of Antique Gems in the Middle Ages.” [242] “Prolégomènes Historiques,” of Ibn. Kaldoun, in Notices et Extraits des Manuscripts de la Bibliothèque Impériale, vol. xx, pt. i, pp. 61–62, Paris, 1865. [243] Burton, “Supplementary Nights,” 1868, vol. v, p. 52. [244] Hammer-Purgstall, “Abhandlung über die Siegel der Araber, Persen und Türken,” Denkschriften der Kaiserl. Akad. der Wissenschaften, Phil.-Hist. Kl., Wien, 1850, p. 29. [245] _Ibid._, p. 1. [246] Garzoni, “Piazza Universale,” German transl., Franckfurt am Main, 1641, p. 697. [247] Jean Baptiste Tavernier, “Relation du Serrail,” Paris, 1702, pp. 480, 481. [248] O. M. Dalton, “Byzantine Art and Archæology,” Oxford, 1911, p. 540; figs. 319, 320 on p. 537. [249] Nicetas, “Histoire de l’Empire Grec, Règne de John Comnénus,” Paris, 1693, p. 7. [250] P. J. Mariette, “Traité des pierres gravées,” Paris, 1750, vol. i, p. 21. [251] “Catalogue of the Special Exhibition of Works of Art at the South Kensington Museum, June, 1862,” section 32, “Rings,” by Edmund Waterton, p. 622. [252] C. W. King, “Antique Gems and Rings,” London, 1872, p. 399. [253] Jules Labarte, “Dissertation sur l’abandon de la glyptique en Occident au Moyen Age et sur l’époque de la renaissance de cet art,” Paris, 1871, pp. 12–18. [254] Labarte, “Inventaire du mobilier de Charles V,” Paris, 1879, p. 86, No. 555. [255] Joannis Cantacuzeni, “Historiæ,” vol. i, lib. iii, cap. xlvii. [256] Migne’s Patrologia Græca, vol. cliii, Paris, 1866. [257] Emil Hannover in “Politikon” Kjobenhavn, April 10, 1911. [258] C. Drury Fortnum, “Notes On Some of the Antique and Renaissance Gems and Jewels in Her Majesty’s Collection at Windsor Castle,” London, 1876, pp. 12, 13; cut double linear size on p. 13. [259] _Ibid._, p. 15. [260] O. M. Dalton, “Franks Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later (British Museum),” London, 1912, p. xxxi. [261] “Catalogue of the Special Exhibition of Works of Art at the South Kensington Museum, June, 1862,” section 32, “Rings,” by Edmund Waterton, p. 623. [262] O. M. Dalton, “Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later, bequeathed by Sir Augustus Wollaston Franks, K.C.B. (British Museum),” London, 1912, p. li, footnote. [263] Franks Bequest, Catalogue of Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Mediæval and Later (British Museum), London, 1912, p. 53. [264] See also Catalogue of the Books, Manuscripts, Works of Art and Relics, at present exhibited in Shakespeare’s Birthplace, with 61 illustrations, Stratford-upon-Avon, 1910. [265] Halliwell, “Life of William Shakespeare,” London, 1848, p. 334. [266] “Catalogue of an Exhibition Illustrative of the Text of Shakespeare’s Plays,” New York, The Grolier Club, 1916, plate opposite p. 96, from a mezzotint by G. F. Storm, 1847. [267] See Archæologia, vol. xlvii, 393, and vol. 1, p. 114. [268] Vol. xlvii, London, 1883, p. 393. The original document is in the privy seal books of the Clerk of the Pells, now in the Public Record Office, No. 11, p. 142. [269] “Les six voyages de Jean Bapiste Tavernier,” La Haye, 1718, vol. i, pp. 540, 541. [270] H. Clifford-Smith, “The King’s Gems and Jewels at Windsor Castle,” _The Connoisseur_, 1903, vol. v, p. 244. [271] Fortnum, “Collection at Windsor Castle,” London, 1876, p. 141. [272] C. Drury Fortnum, “Notes on Some of the Antique and Renaissance Gems and Jewels in Her Majesty’s Collection at Windsor Castle,” London, 1876, pp. 26, 27. [273] George Frederick Kunz, “The Etiquette of Gems,” _Saturday Evening Post_, June 27, 1908, p. 5. [274] Augusta Huiell Seaman, “The Sapphire Signet,” New York, The Century Co., 1916. [275] C. W. King, “The Natural History of Precious Stones,” London, 1870, p. 254; Duffield Osborne, “Engraved Gems,” New York, 1912, p.